DIYstompboxes.com

by request. [geeze, it needs some images.]

first you need to pick a circuit**, put it on the BB and finalise it, cause there'll be no sockets, then pick your set of parts, including alternative radials for your axials. there are some sub-minature radial electros getting about are only 4mm dia for a 10uF, perfect for this method. there is a variety of "5mm" diameters in axials, you really want the smaller 5mm. if we had 0.125" pitch board would be perfect, 0.1" is fine if you're careful, 0.156" would be extravagent/wasteful.

it's a long time since I started this project, so I'm not clearest on the reasons for some of the weirdness. in DIYLC you must first switch to the black/dark colour scheme, otherwise none of this will work. then you need to measure all your parts, there will be a load of parts needing to be  customised. and we work at a 2:1 scale [because I wanted angled leads sticking to the grid], so double the pitch of your chosen sized perf board, copy, paste and offset, so you have an upper and a lower board. name them such. parts on the underside of the upper board then have their lead angled down/left - parts on the lower board angle up/right - this is how we remember where we are.

dig in and cutomise your parts - I use plenty of colour-coding on mine, because I delete the part ref and blank the value, then copy that single part over and over. [I find the DIYLC text is never where I want it - it is easier to move and reallocate un-numbered parts - you also get to learn the circuit more thoroughly.] make sure to double all your diameters. the axial caps turn to circles because their leads are so short, which is a good thing.

so - put one of your resistors on the top left corner of the board, with the lead angled down, copy and paste it to the same board grid-ref on the lower board. now re-angle the lower parts lead to point up/right, select both halves and group. this is now the resistor you copy and paste, and it will be [should be] in the right relative positon each time. ** please note ** (in DIYLC 3.28.0) each time you paste a grouped thing, is ungroups, so after you've pasted and placed, group while they are still selected. have your whole set of parts-to-copy on the page before you start. note that your electros and diodes will have one end a different colour - make a note of their colour/polarity somewhere on the layout.

transistors are radial parts, so only connect to one or other board. radial parts mounted on the upper/underside ARE UPSIDEDOWN [mark them as such]. make very sure of your pinout. they could be top mounted, but really, what would be the point then? a radial part leaves "empty space" on the opposite board - keep out of that space. or use the space with another radial. so we know what's on the opposing board, we have some 'ghost parts' marking the place of radials. just edit your real parts colours to a consistent theme which says to you "placemarking - pay attention". then do a place and group, as with the resistors exampled above.

transistors - I couldn't big-up the TO92 package, only spread the pins to 0.2" pitch. also, I couldn't triangle the pins, which would make them fit much better with resistors and stuff, so they remain flat. make sure you test fit before you solder, they will foul on something.

laying out - I'm not going to tell you how to do a layout. start like you always do, plonk down a transistor on the lower board, lay a Vcc-coloured line and a ground-coloured line on the upper board. put a collector resistor and an emitter resistor, add lines on the lower board to connect them to the transistor, and then start shuffling and adding. have some perf handy to do test fits, you'll need them.

I use "18 AWG hook-up wires" for all my board traces, with alpha set low, usually 30% or less. most all the parts shown are at less than 40% alpha settings.

you will come to parts of the circuit that require linking a top track to a bottom track. just use a "jumper" and edit it to the same/similar colour as the traces it connects. these lines on the layout will also help with spatial awareness. make sure of your board co-ords, all your links should be the same angle. don't forget the oversized boards will allow fake connections and component placings to be made between real-life pads. pay attention to the startings, stoppings and lengths of your traces.

(http://i.imgur.com/QKuxPhw.png) (http://i.imgur.com/QKuxPhw.png)

shown above [click for VERY bigger] is a partial/demo layout for R.G.'s "The JFET Doubler - A Simple Screaming Octave" shown at geofex, as illustration, I don't know if I'll take that layout any further. if anyone is interested enough, I can send them a .diy file with all the gunk in, so you need do less editing.


shown here is the full size (http://i.imgur.com/rZ7Cegp.png) superfuzz layout. it is very large.

if anyone is interested enough to try the build part, let me know, that's more typing and photos. I'll happily measure the dimensions of any axial caps sent to me. thanks for reading.


** the superfuzz is the ideal thing, because it is large enough to about break even in the build-volume conversion from flat, and because all the transistors string between Vcc and ground. the big muff might look a suitable candidate, but the collector bias will be a nightmare of wire links between top and bottom boards.

Thanks so much duck. Guess I'll have some evenings to spend in front diylc now.  :icon_biggrin:

I suppose that in diylc I could set the alpha of the upper board very low, and the lower board very high, offset them, and then anchor each component between them? Or would that get too messy? I'll have to try that tonight.

It would be so cool if diylc was like CAD, where you could revolve your assembly in 3D. Actually, I think I have Inventor kicking around somewhere. I'll have to see if there are component templates available for it.

Quoteincluding alternative radials for your axials

You mean alternative axials for your radials, no?

Quoteif we had 0.125" pitch board would be perfect

Does that exist? I can find 0.1 and 0.156.

I think a little bit of brain just leaked out my nose.   :icon_eek:   But I'm gonna have to try this anyway.  (Damn you, duck!)  I'm interested by Dino's idea of two offset boards with components strung between them.  I don't usually have the auto-sticky connection thing turned on, but I see how it might be useful here.

In the meantime, I'm going back to hypercube Sudoku...

BTW, how about 3D vero: top one east-west, bottom one north-south?

Why not about a 4D vero..???

Many circuits include RC constants and - according to some guys - time is the fourth dimension...


P.S. Sorry for the spam, Duckie... :icon_redface:

spam away, darl!

when it comes to vero, direct all questions to dino, please.

my first attempts at this I tried stringing parts from top to bottom, but it quickly became such a jungle I couldn't understand what was going on.  couldn't see the parts behind.

and no, I mean collect up a full set of axial caps, and add a spare part-set of radial caps for when that best solves the problem at hand. like a treble-bleed across an off board pot, or a b-c high killer on a fuzzface.

and I think I'll move on to a dr boogey instead of the jfet doubler. should be fun.

And I thought the fourth dimension was smell.  :icon_wink:

Quote from: digi2t on February 22, 2017, 11:38:14 AM
And I thought the fourth dimension was smell.  :icon_wink:

Ah, you're confusing "past" with "passed".    :icon_biggrin:

Quote from: bluebunny on February 22, 2017, 12:09:06 PM

Quote from: digi2t on February 22, 2017, 11:38:14 AM
And I thought the fourth dimension was smell.  :icon_wink:

Ah, you're confusing "past" with "passed".    :icon_biggrin:

Probably. As I age, confusion reigns supreme. It's probably my fifth dimension. Or dementia. One of those two. Can't remember which.

I struggle with one dimension.

I finks a bit of my brain leaked too. :):):):):)

OK, I've tried a simple circuit, just to ease into it. I present... Cordwood Fuzz Face.

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Fuzz%20Face/Fuzz%20Face_zpsam1quvpb.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/digi2t/media/Fuzz%20Face/Fuzz%20Face_zpsam1quvpb.jpg.html)

Yeah, it's dense to the eyes. I couldn't see myself building this without having the laptop with the diylc on the bench so I can highlight components for placement.

Now... volume-wise, does it REALLY use less space inside an enclosure? Dunno. Sure does look cool though. :icon_biggrin:

ahh, see, I said it wouldn't work if you didn't switch to dark. how come LOWER BOARD is above? madness! mmm, and no mention that Q2 is upside down .....

if you shift your 20uF 1 hole more to the right, you'll get a much more comfy fit. moving the 8k2 left one, to the edge, will ease the fit on the 2u2. (if you make your traces different colours, they will pop-out as to where they start and stop.) and yes, I have it on the PC while I solder, can't waste all that ink on printing.

but, well done, and join the club.

Quote from: duck_arse on February 23, 2017, 08:58:37 AM
ahh, see, I said it wouldn't work if you didn't switch to dark. how come LOWER BOARD is above? madness! mmm, and no mention that Q2 is upside down .....

if you shift your 20uF 1 hole more to the right, you'll get a much more comfy fit. moving the 8k2 left one, to the edge, will ease the fit on the 2u2. (if you make your traces different colours, they will pop-out as to where they start and stop.) and yes, I have it on the PC while I solder, can't waste all that ink on printing.

but, well done, and join the club.

Yes, you're quite correct about the lower/upper boards thing. That's why, to avoid confusing myself, I labelled them. In the end though, it's like the wire frame cube illusion; you stare at it long enough, and you can't tell which corner is closer or farther from you. Horses for courses.

As for fitting, since I don't use axial components, I would have to set the proper dimensions as defaults in diylc. Then I would have a much better perspective as to what will fit where. As it stands now, only my resistors, non polar, and radial caps are set. In any case, even with my vero layouts, I get caught on occasion, and I need to shift things to fit. This does have the advantage of being able to mock up before soldering anything. You could use a "third hand" to hold the upper board, and hang your components in place by kinking the leads. If something needs tweaking, a redraw is easy at this point. If everything looks good, solder the upper first, flip it around, solder the bottom, clip the leads, and add the jumpers.

Now... mounting in the enclosure. Uh, yeah... haven't got there yet.  :icon_rolleyes:

The transistor on the "upper board" is indeed upside down, so I labelled the pins accordingly. Since I was thinking that this was pad-per-hole on one side, I couldn't see it being any place else. Although, for someone that's going at it for the first time, and using double sided board, it may create confusion. Yes, it should be noted.

Shame that I'm not a fan of Fuzz Face's, otherwise I would build this. I need to find another circuit that I fancy to cut my teeth on. One that I haven't build yet, but not to complex.

Thanks for the membership duck. Don't think I'll be doing a Ludwig Phase II any time soon though. ;D

"Don't think I'll be doing a Ludwig Phase II any time soon though"

Now, we all know you're a guy who likes a challenge...   ;)

Quote from: rutabaga bob on February 23, 2017, 11:38:06 AM
"Don't think I'll be doing a Ludwig Phase II any time soon though"

Now, we all know you're a guy who likes a challenge...   ;)

Yeah, well, why don't I start by trying to lick my balls first. If that works out, I might move on to the Ludwig.  ;D ;)

I'm a relative newcomer to perfboard, but I can't say highly enough for those double sided plated through boards. I stitch my copper tracks (with real copper) before I put the parts, which takes extra time but cuts down on placement errors. and it allows the top board to slide up and down enough to get the upper leads in, soldered and clipped, with one or two of the full length lower leads bent to limit the stroke length.

the lower lead can have a slight hook end-bent to allow easier entry-angle, and the top lead clipped to "long enough". and yes, you need something to hold one board so you can wave the assembly about over your head trying to get the light and the magnifying glass into the right place to see what you are doing, and for general handling without complete destruction. the sliding up and down allow the parts to find their happy places without strain, as well.

all in all, I had a fair bit of fun (I think is the right word) doing this method. it was surprisingly trouble free. now I just need a set of caps for the doctor.

I am wondering, as I'm sure are others (the whole 2 of them  ;)), just how much space this takes up inside an enclosure compared to a reg'lar old circuit.  A photo would be illuminating.

well, foghorn, I can only show the pics in the bukket at the moment, cause it'll be months before I'm finished metalwork (unless a contest is called) and mounting. you should be able to get a comparative scale idea like from the pics. the superfuzz board I built previous was a full 24 X 10 perf, using 1/8W resistors, so I'd almost say smaller than a 1/4W build.

the bukket:
http://imgur.com/a/gtfTy

the other superfuzz:
http://i.imgur.com/MP8VEEK.jpg

Thank you, kind sir!

Hey duck, are those two board squeezed down as far as they'll go, or do all the leads have space above and below? I'm just wondering if you go to the limits of the largest component, if you could save a tiny bit more space that way.

I think they are limited by the 10uF radial electros banging on the top of the transistors. you probably don't want to try and push them together too hard, so leave a little lead each end of your biggest intended part, will allow a little strain relief.

Gotcha! 10q.

I mentioned cordwood once and now there is a thread with people willing to do it.  What have I done?

Quote from: amptramp on February 24, 2017, 07:48:49 PM
I mentioned cordwood once and now there is a thread with people willing to do it.  What have I done?

(http://memecrunch.com/meme/19ZXF/you-ve-created-a-monster/image.jpg)

how did you get my photo, dino?

and amptramp - a search reveals more than one mention.

^^^

A search shows 12 mentions of cordwood, ten of them referring to electronics and five of those by me and I know of at least one of my mentions that did not show up in the search.  We used to have a lot of surplus shops around here and cordwood was the ultimate in density in the 1950's.  We still had draftsmen working on upgrades to cordwood modules in the 1970's, mainly to accommodate parts that had gone extinct.  For this type of layout, sanity is not necessary.  Or desirable.

mounting thoughts - since forever, I've been employing "the stumbling block mounting method". smart builders will do well to avoid doing the same. planning ahead, you might do one of the following:

- work out some sort method using blocks and brackets before you solder, then cut your boards so they have mounting holes at the same end, as I did w/ the superfuzz.
- better, rotate one board so you have high mounting holes at one end, low holes at the other. then you will have clearance both ends for screws and mounts.
- or, cut your upper board to the circuit-size, and the lower to circuit-size plus 2/3 extra rows plus normal mounting holes on the other end. then mount via the lower board only, on spacers or whatever. or make the upper the longer board, and use those overlong threaded pillars you've got lurking in the drawers and hang the build via the upper.
- cut and glued plastic to form slots and runners, mount the boards on edge.

if you have any other methods in mind, please, do tell.

one thing about board directions - I was very careful to ensure I had the hole-ID letters correspond upper with lower, and there aren't many orientations that allow this as the back of the board also letters left to right. working without those references as placement aids would be an unnecessary extra layer of difficulty.

last week I thought a big muff was too difficult for cordwood. last night I saw this pic:

(http://www.robotroom.com/Circuit-Board-Tips/Soldering-Wires-On-Surface-Mount-Transistors.jpg)

today I was thinking about phasers and things, but crossed them off because of feedback resistors (since then I see it is more doable if the IC is mounted on the top-outer and top-soldered, so the holes under/between the IC pins could be used as well). and then I thought about the BC847B smd transistors I have, and the way the collector lead is the other side of the body to the base lead, and how they could then be strung C to upper and B to lower, and all those B-C interconnects on the muff become no problem. and an upper-board radial cap from C to diodes makes it even neater. [there is no reason the collector need go uppermost, whatever orientation gets you there would do - and there are quite a few different orientations possible.]

later still I was thinking of what all else could be built, and thought of vactrols. with an oscillator and flashing led on the lower board, and the whatever audio section on an upper board, we can get proper supply separation and direct in-line opto mountings and all sorts of other benefits. PLUS imagine how good the whole thing will look with led light flashings coming from deep within.

I feel another magnavibe layout in the offing. I need to get out more.

does anyone have any other ideas for possible builds? moosetone?

Be careful...your cordwood is smoldering...

Quote from: duck_arse on February 26, 2017, 08:24:54 AM
last week I thought a big muff was too difficult for cordwood. last night I saw this pic:

(http://www.robotroom.com/Circuit-Board-Tips/Soldering-Wires-On-Surface-Mount-Transistors.jpg)

today I was thinking about phasers and things, but crossed them off because of feedback resistors (since then I see it is more doable if the IC is mounted on the top-outer and top-soldered, so the holes under/between the IC pins could be used as well). and then I thought about the BC847B smd transistors I have, and the way the collector lead is the other side of the body to the base lead, and how they could then be strung C to upper and B to lower, and all those B-C interconnects on the muff become no problem. and an upper-board radial cap from C to diodes makes it even neater. [there is no reason the collector need go uppermost, whatever orientation gets you there would do - and there are quite a few different orientations possible.]

later still I was thinking of what all else could be built, and thought of vactrols. with an oscillator and flashing led on the lower board, and the whatever audio section on an upper board, we can get proper supply separation and direct in-line opto mountings and all sorts of other benefits. PLUS imagine how good the whole thing will look with led light flashings coming from deep within.

I feel another magnavibe layout in the offing. I need to get out more.

does anyone have any other ideas for possible builds? moosetone?

I love the beautiful irony of a surface mount cordwood design.  Would be neat if you exclusively used SMDs with wires attached.  :icon_biggrin:

silly question
- smd transistor not heat sensitive? never try smd before
- are axial elektro caps is MUST in cordwood?
- any example cordwood with op-amp?
Thanks

silly answers:

smd yes heat sensitive, but no more so than ordinary thru holes. get in and out fast, no probs.
axial electros are not MUST, no. neither axial poly's. but in the spirit of the method, and because they make the layout sensible. use what you have/what you can get/what you can fit.
there are VERY FEW examples at all at the moment. I've only just decided opamp might be doable today.

what's on your mind?

People...

If I can get away with this...

(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Zendrive/DSCF5164_zpsqewyref1.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/user/digi2t/media/Zendrive/DSCF5164_zpsqewyref1.jpg.html)

then I don't think cheating with cordwood will be a problem.  :icon_biggrin:

Of course, you could always go with a canned op amp,

(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/W88AAOxyd8NSa8ES/s-l300.jpg)

and work around it. Maybe start with it in the middle, and work your way out from it.

> smd transistor not heat sensitive?

I have abused a through-hole power transistor so bad that it was working even though the solder on its legs was melted (I noticed it flopped in its holes). That's probably bad for long life, but not instant-death.

SMD parts are mass-soldered by solder-dip. The end page of the datasheet (or another sheet) tells the time and temperature allowed for "full function and reliability". Generally you can spend a few seconds at full molten solder temperature. Doing 3-leg parts by hand, you should be able to get on and off each leg that quick.

The full dip-solder specs also show pre-heat and cool-down times. I believe the pre-heat is less important with an iron than with a dip: the iron tip will not instantly bring the leg up to temp like a ton of solder will. I think the cool-down spec relates to an air-jet used to remove excess solder after dip-solder; if too violent there is thermal shock you can't get in hand soldering.

I think you can cook modern Silicon devices many minutes at hot iron temperature and they will work the rest of your life. However there is NO point in prolonged heat. Your technique (including flux) should allow very rapid (couple seconds) heat/cool and good joints.

Doing all three legs by hand, I would wait a few seconds between each joint, though that may not be essential. Doing an 8-DIP I would probably do a couple legs, stretch my arms, a couple more, stretch my back, so heat did not build up.

Quote from: PRR on February 26, 2017, 05:40:27 PM
I have abused a through-hole power transistor so bad that it was working even though the solder on its legs was melted (I noticed it flopped in its holes).

:icon_eek:
...
:icon_eek:
...
:icon_cry:
That's much worse than watching Bambi on the first day of deer season! (true story from my childhood, btw   :icon_lol:)

I have today finished a layout diagram for a doctor boogie, or near equivalent. it is in this buckett, with a circuit diagram. (even tho it has been scaled, it is still a very large image. also quite difficult to understand, I think.)

http://imgur.com/a/c8Uqj

I'm just waiting on the okey-dokey from bluebunny, who is carefully checking the layout for me, and then I'll start soldering. I'll update the buckket w/ pictures as I go.

Aagh!  My eyes!  Please drop experimental cosmetics into them instead!

You forgot to wear your protective goggles!!!

finished. der bootie. more photos tomorrow.

(http://i.imgur.com/q8qxIe1.jpg)

Bloody hell. Didn't realise you actually intended to build a circuit like it.
I thought it was just a graphic thing

What size box. :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:

Nice work Duck.

Quote from: duck_arse on March 07, 2017, 08:31:07 AM
finished. der bootie. more photos tomorrow.

(http://i.imgur.com/q8qxIe1.jpg)

I think I just exploded a little.  :icon_rolleyes:

Man... that looks sexy! Just out of curiousity, what are the dimensions? I just want to compare with a PCB build. Not that it's really the point, it's reviving a lost art that really impresses me. Super nice job ducky!  :icon_biggrin: I see you incorporated the mounting holes too. Impressive. I'll be having visions of this dancing through my head tonight. :icon_lol:

An incredible job!

I'm going to estimate the dimensions as 3.3" × 1.1" × 1.0".
Let me know if I'm close.  :icon_wink:

Quote from: EBK on March 07, 2017, 09:29:52 AM
I'm going to estimate the dimensions as 3.3" × 1.1" × 1.0".
Let me know if I'm close.  :icon_wink:

This feels like the "how many jelly beans in the jar" contest at the fair. Dang... Dated myself. :icon_cry:

the boards are standard chinesie protos, 2cm x 8cm (you'll havta do the units conversion yershelf). from under-bottom to the top resistor is 25mm. the mountings in that photo are for my soldering clamp, no mounting for the finished circuit has been erm thought-out, yet. that's way down the track.

box? what?

I'm less happy with the way the parts fitted in this build than the previous, a few parts rub, some plain didn't fit, everything stands a little higher than I wanted. but that's just ocd, huh.

Quote from: EBK on March 07, 2017, 09:29:52 AM
I'm going to estimate the dimensions as 3.3" × 1.1" × 1.0".
Let me know if I'm close.  :icon_wink:

Duck doesn't do inches  :o
so you can't win.

Quote from: Kipper4 on March 07, 2017, 09:00:51 AM
Bloody hell.

^ Yeah, this.   :icon_eek:

Very nice, but I don't see any wires.
Have you fired it up yet?

Let's hope nothing goes wrong with that .022/10 or we will hear about it.

the full story, sam, can be seen in the bukket now:

http://imgur.com/a/c8Uqj

thanks again to bluebuny for the checking, and itg63 for the caps, special thanks to Ben Lyman and me old mate kipper, for the caps from the "what diode is this" thread. saved my bacon with them. and ron for the mentions of cordwood, which is wot made me do it in the first place.

Excellent job!  See, you didn't need that pesky sanity anyway, did you?

>the wired board. powered up and passes signal first go...

Bravo.

sick...looks like a full on migrane to work out...

cool though. 8)

Looks really amazing. but like Rob said, a real migraine!!!!
Wouldn't want to have to fault find it either!!!
Nice one, Duck!

Holy %&/&%%, this  :icon_eek: is awesome!

migraine, no, the pain is the other end. thanks for the nice comments - I have a layout for a moonstone all done, just waiting for the boss (yes, you, cozy) to finalise the circuit itself before committing to solder.

sorry for necro bump
build like this can be called cordwood too?
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-48ATCzeYUsY/WfIWun2mU1I/AAAAAAAAAnk/qw7wqbv7ibA-wGNx_c0wO86WHGVSlDXXgCLcBGAs/s1600/cordwood-ovd1.jpg)

Nope.

so, all part must be axial?

Quote from: 287m on October 26, 2017, 01:39:03 PM
so, all part must be axial?

(http://i.imgur.com/q8qxIe1.jpg)

Yup. With some natural exceptions, of course. Like that uber-hard to find axial BJT...

(https://s1.postimg.org/1v0uspdnjv/ic-transistor-2n3819-rf-jfet-n-ch-25v-10ma-to-92.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/1v0uspdnjv/)

:icon_wink:

this just in .... due to not the right axials, I'm just using "normal" parts. otherwise, nothing ever gets finished.

(https://i.imgur.com/PmprdY4.jpg)

and the IC sockets have gorn wonky. boo.

287m - if that was your first shot at a cordwood, I'd say OK. it should at least have some resistors strung between boards.

and digi - you know I have a layout planned with those axial bjt's (they'll look like smd with wires on) 'pending'. I could show you the diagram, but I'd need bluebunny to approve it first.

Do you need me to hunt you some more axials? 

dear lord, NO! make it stop. I'd don't really want to spend the rest of my life doing the cordwoods. but thanks for the offer, everyone else doing 'the cord' will be needing those axials.

What's the armor plating for?

Quote from: EBK on October 27, 2017, 10:19:21 AM
What's the armor plating for?

It's like pedal "tinfoil hat" so he doesn't have to take commands from the Alien Leaders.

I like the "Mickey Mouse" wormhole at the bottom left too...

Quote from: duck_arse on October 27, 2017, 09:47:01 AM
I could show you the diagram, but I'd need bluebunny to approve it first.

Approved.

Go for it, mate.

you blokes are cards. ought to be dealt with.

blue, how can you approve it, I haven't sent it yet? I'll do that right now .......

I trust you enough that I know it will be a thing of wonder.

These boards look awesome! I will have to dream up a reason to do one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quote from: italianguy63 on October 27, 2017, 10:26:27 AM

Quote from: EBK on October 27, 2017, 10:19:21 AM
What's the armor plating for?

It's like pedal "tinfoil hat" so he doesn't have to take commands from the Alien Leaders.

how am I going to fit my head in there? where would I put the jacks?

Quote from: duck_arse on October 28, 2017, 10:10:38 AM
where would I put the jacks?

I guess that would be up to the aliens.   :o

I'd be more worried about the stomp switch in such a situation.

cordwood - in. the. box.
(https://i.imgur.com/OkU7eFw.jpg)

more threaded here:
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=112473.msg1126638#msg1126638

I'll give you bloody wormhole .......

good people, the pixie shoes crackbox fuzz is complete. cordwood parts here, wood parts elsewhere.

(https://i.imgur.com/gYbhCQx.jpg)

assorted old pulled transistors.

(https://i.imgur.com/INyqLfa.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/DEldzAo.jpg)

for bluebunny only:
https://i.imgur.com/fr4nJcD.png

what?!! he did it again  :icon_eek:
amazing

here came the question
ever try drop test? just secure in that mount?
my last try doing cordwood, after drop test, weird sound came when shaking enclosure. clak clak clak. I laugh so hard

if I dropped it, something might crack. I wouldn't laugh quite so hard as you, then. mount puts it there, all the million wires stop it going there instead.

Quote from: duck_arse on February 02, 2020, 08:44:16 AM
for bluebunny only:
https://i.imgur.com/fr4nJcD.png

Thanks.  I'll raise you this:

(https://assets.atlasobscura.com/article_images/38744/image.jpg)

you'll raise me what?

here, see, the ratty clutch, crappy octave down, will convert all your toans to noise. is a copy of the erratic clutch, but with a top-cut on the oct out, and built cordwood style.

(https://i.imgur.com/nnu55yW.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/RvMPmU4.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/r8ntMCa.jpg)

I started the layout with the intent of using all the little offcuts of perf laying around. in the end, nothing would fit, and I ended up cutting to size. oh, well.

(https://i.imgur.com/EuEwfv7.jpg)

more guts and circuit can be seen in the bukket.
https://imgur.com/a/sl6MCo2

The duck has won the internet for the whole year.  :icon_eek:

Do you have to hunt down that covering cloth or did it hunt you down?

I can't really understand what it is, or what it does, how did you built it, or how to debug it if it didn't worked.

But I liked it :icon_twisted:

the whole internet? where will I put it?

I scrounge around in the old boxes of dress-making and quilting off cuts. sometimes a bit of cloth speaks to me. "leave me alone", it will say, "ruin some other piece instead!" but I just carry on butchering and gloop them w/ assorted glues.

debug? not me. I restrict my many errors to the offboard wirings, and it seems to keep Murphy happy. thus far.

I will remain firmly in the spectators' area while I watch other people do perf cordwood.  Debug would be interesting.

That resistor in the middle should definitely be changed.

Quote from: duck_arse on February 24, 2017, 10:23:41 AM
well, foghorn, I can only show the pics in the bukket at the moment, cause it'll be months before I'm finished metalwork (unless a contest is called) and mounting. you should be able to get a comparative scale idea like from the pics.

the bukket:
http://imgur.com/a/gtfTy

months, did I say? it is done, the superfuzzbowl.

(https://i.imgur.com/WEWIHrg.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/SLu11KX.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/IQJqrvJ.jpg)

acrylic top [I don't now know why] w/ dual leds, violet inked knobs, no diode lift switch. AND octave trimm trimmer.

Cute.  The reflection brings Zaphod Beeblebrox to mind...

Very kool. Reminds me of this great show

(https://i.postimg.cc/f3fhK3Pz/images-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3fhK3Pz)

Quote from: bluebunny on October 25, 2022, 11:32:48 AM
Cute.  The reflection brings Zaphod Beeblebrox to mind...

I was getting dalek overall, but if it'll help get my filthy mitts on Trillion - gargleblasters for my all friends!

ah duck, you've got a real Heart of Gold...

blast. now I've spelt her name wrong, I'll probably have no chance with Trillian.

Given the havoc that time/space dilation can do, relatively speaking and in all likelihood, the object of your affection is either long gone or hasn't been born yet.

But I thought that was what the trimpot was for...