I have wads of those little green PCB-mount 9mm pots with the black plastic shafts, and only recently purchased some of the more costly ones with metal shafts that can be secured to a chassis with a retaining nut. IN past, I have deftly mounted the blastic shaft type to a chassis with some epoxy, but it is tricky.
I'm wondering if I can combine the plastic and metal shaft types and expect a reasonable degree of mechanical stability. More specifically, if I was to solder one of the chassis-mount metal-shaft types to a piece of pad-per-hole board, along with a black-plastic type on either side of it, soldered to the same pad-per-hole board, could I expect the pot secured to the chassis, and the chassis holes for the black plastic one to keep everything steady enough that it wouldn't suddenly give?
I'm trying to make it easier to build stuff into 1590A boxes, and this seems like a reasonable compromise between lower cost and structural reliability. I'm wondering if others have tried or seen a similar arrangement.
Some women like squeeze but no plastic-threaded pot does..!! :icon_wink:
My experience is limited to the use of some kind of "Nylock" securing nuts (the ones with a nylon collar inside the nut) with very good stability results but with the drawback of "off-setting" knob from enlosure surface..
(at distance depending on internal knob cavity & nut external diameter and height..)
edit: I'm talking about full-plastic pots, of course..
Maybe I didn't get Mark's query if it's about shaft only durability.. :icon_redface:
i would think it would be ok, as long as you dont give it a really good kicking.
if you are, then stick a little protector bar on there...
i use those 'no shaft' 9mms on breadboards...ideal. 8)
i like to put a little dab of white paint in the notch groove, so i can see the dial. :icon_idea:
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 14, 2017, 04:56:18 AMi like to put a little dab of white paint in the notch groove, so i can see the dial. :icon_idea:
That's a good tip. If one still has a bottle of white-out/liquid paper sitting around (in unsolidified form), a dab of that and a quick wipe to remove excess should work nicely.
Quote from: Mark Hammer on September 14, 2017, 08:20:19 AM
That's a good tip. If one still has a bottle of white-out/liquid paper sitting around (in unsolidified form), a dab of that and a quick wipe to remove excess should work nicely.
Nail polish works as well.
If these are the types of pots you mean Mark they fit perfectly and sit at the correct heights with the other pots when soldered to a board, in this picture I have them on my PCB's but vero or any board mounting should work fine and the metal shaft pot(s) hold everything else in the correct place.
(https://s26.postimg.org/4kypkyk45/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4kypkyk45/)
+1 for having to paint in the white position line.