Hola,
Working on bread boarding this "Boutique TS" courtesy of Beavis Audio. I think I've got it all wired up correctly but I'm only getting a faint guitar signal.
If I remove the 1k2 on the Right side (G7-G11) of the IC, I get a full signal, but gain seems to be at max and I have no control over it.
Otherwise I'm getting very little signal. Only volume pot seems to have any effect.
I'm using a RC4558P
(https://i.postimg.cc/zynTfLBN/bbp-Boutique-Tube-Screamer-Rev1-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zynTfLBN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dhKTgq9x/IMG-0056.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dhKTgq9x)
The wire going from the Drive pot to A15 should not be there.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 09, 2020, 07:33:26 PM
Pretty sure the jumper between B10-B15 is an error. Should not be installed. Otherwise, you are shorting out the Drive pot.
So layout is incorrect?
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 09, 2020, 07:36:15 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 09, 2020, 07:33:26 PM
Pretty sure the jumper between B10-B15 is an error. Should not be installed. Otherwise, you are shorting out the Drive pot.
So layout is incorrect?
Corrected my statement. Look above.
EDIT: Also... a schematic would help a lot.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 09, 2020, 07:33:26 PM
The wire going from the Drive pot to A15 should not be there.
Removed no change
Quote
EDIT: Also... a schematic would help a lot.
Sorry here you go
(https://i.postimg.cc/S25wx1TJ/1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S25wx1TJ)
Try a 10K resistor from J13 to J1
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 09, 2020, 07:55:52 PM
Try a 10K resistor from J13 to J1
I'm getting a clean guitar tone
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 09, 2020, 08:03:03 PM
I'm getting a clean guitar tone
Did you remove the connection to A15 along with adding the 10K from J13 to J1? Did you turn up the Drive pot?
Is your clean signal back to a decent volume? Adjustable with the Volume pot? Can you notice a change with the Tone pot?
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 09, 2020, 08:08:18 PM
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 09, 2020, 08:03:03 PM
I'm getting a clean guitar tone
Did you remove the connection to A15 along with adding the 10K from J13 to J1? Did you turn up the Drive pot?
Is your clean signal back to a decent volume? Adjustable with the Volume pot? Can you notice a change with the Tone pot?
Volume is better, but quieter than my bypass signal. Volume pot works
A15 disconnected, added 10k. Gain pot does not work.
Tone pot works.
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 09, 2020, 08:11:14 PM
Volume is better, but quieter than my bypass signal. Volume pot works
A15 disconnected, added 10k. Gain pot does not work.
Tone pot works.
Lift the connection out of G1 and put it into Ground. Try that.
EDIT: And change that 470K (R3) to a 10K
Quote
Lift the connection out of G1 and put it into Ground. Try that.
EDIT: And change that 470K (R3) to a 10K
G1 to ground or D4 to ground?
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 09, 2020, 08:23:00 PM
G1 to ground or D4 to ground?
Pull out the connection at G1 and put it into Ground instead.
Also, change the 470K resistor at the top (R3) to a 10K resistor
Quote
Pull out the connection at G1 and put it into Ground instead.
Also, change the 470K resistor at the top (R3) to a 10K resistor
Sounds like a machine gun :icon_eek:
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 09, 2020, 08:27:43 PM
Sounds like a machine gun :icon_eek:
Well, I guess put it back to G1.
You might have a bad half to your 4558 chip.
Quote
Well, I guess put it back to G1.
You might have a bad half to your 4558 chip.
I appreciate you going through that with me, I'll have another go at it tomorrow, need a break lol. Thank you kind sir
edit: tried another chip, same result. I'll redo breadboard tomorrow
Difficult to tell from that angle in the photo, but is your resistor left lead directly under the IC in the correct row?
There was a thread about this a while back - may help?
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113985.msg1056907#msg1056907
Also double-check if the gain pot value is correct :)
btw, you don't have 1k resistors? the resistor from g7 to g11 appears to be something else.
And what values are these bias resistors right top? are these 10k? (100k is brown-black-yellow)
Quote from: jacehzoid on May 09, 2020, 10:40:32 PM
Difficult to tell from that angle in the photo, but is your resistor left lead directly under the IC in the correct row?
There's a 1k @ E15-F15
Quote from: niektb on May 10, 2020, 03:09:09 AM
Also double-check if the gain pot value is correct :)
btw, you don't have 1k resistors? the resistor from g7 to g11 appears to be something else.
And what values are these bias resistors right top? are these 10k? (100k is brown-black-yellow)
Gain pot is B500k.
I used a 1k2 because it was closet to me. I have 1k figured it wouldn't be make a huge difference?
Top right are 100k:
H1-Ground
I1 - Pos
Quote from: stallik on May 10, 2020, 01:52:44 AM
There was a thread about this a while back - may help?
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113985.msg1056907#msg1056907
Interesting, IC Stuff is still a bit over my head. Is the thread suggesting the values in layout are wrong?
QuoteThere's a 1k @ E15-F15
please contirm that resistor - is it red-red-black-brown - 22R, 1% - OR - brown-black-red-red - 1k, 2%? use your ohmeter, please.
from my reading of the breadboard diagram, the connection shown on the drive pot is OK, as the circuit shows wiper shorted to ccw.
also - is that black banded diode a russian type? if so, the russians mark the Anode with a band, whereas
convention, and the layout diagram, assume the Kathode is banded instead. it makes no nevermind to the circuit operation, but if all three are rusk, they are backwards to the dia.
Quote from: duck_arse on May 10, 2020, 11:18:14 AM
QuoteThere's a 1k @ E15-F15
please contirm that resistor - is it red-red-black-brown - 22R, 1% - OR - brown-black-red-red - 1k, 2%? use your ohmeter, please.
from my reading of the breadboard diagram, the connection shown on the drive pot is OK, as the circuit shows wiper shorted to ccw.
also - is that black banded diode a russian type? if so, the russians mark the Anode with a band, whereas convention, and the layout diagram, assume the Kathode is banded instead. it makes no nevermind to the circuit operation, but if all three are rusk, they are backwards to the dia.
Resistor measures 1k. I had them in a bag labelled "1k" I think from Small Bear, does appear RED RED BLACK BROWN.
The diodes are (2) 1N34A
(1) 1N270
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 09, 2020, 07:52:28 PM
Quote
EDIT: Also... a schematic would help a lot.
Sorry here you go
(https://i.postimg.cc/S25wx1TJ/1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S25wx1TJ)
I spotted a small inconsistency between schematic and breadboard, the diode type in de schem is a 1N914 (which is silicon?), the breadboard shows a 1N911. Although it shouldn't cause the issue youre describing :)
Maybe it's how I'm powering?
I have 9v +/- into one side of breadboard, then bridged across to the other side.
Have you placed 47-100 μF cap between h1 & GND..??
I have a feeling that the layout has errors.
It was missing the Vref bias going into the ToneStack gain stage (Pin 5).
Could also be a bad breadboard. Lots of things to consider. I would measure voltages at each pin of the IC and post them up.
Quote from: antonis on May 10, 2020, 02:01:55 PM
Have you placed 47-100 μF cap between h1 & GND..??
Nope I have it wired exactly like layout
So, if you don't mind, put an electro cap right there.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 10, 2020, 02:18:54 PM
It was missing the Vref bias going into the ToneStack gain stage (Pin 5).
It doesn't mind a lot 'cause IC pin 1 exhibits +4.5VDC..
(due to DC unity gain and absence of couupling cap..)
> schem is a 1N914 (which is silicon?), the breadboard shows a 1N911.
Interesting. I wudda said a '911 was a Porsche. Apparently it IS (also) a diode in the 1N914 family but lower max ratings, essentially a "fall out" part which did not make the grade to be sold as '914.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 10, 2020, 02:18:54 PM
[...]
It was missing the Vref bias going into the ToneStack gain stage (Pin 5).
[...]
I noticed that too but the original Son of Screamer (on which this layout is based) has no pull-up resistor there either... :)
I just BB'd this. Getting the same weak signal - a bit less than bypass with everything flat out. It also hums like a demon but If I ground the jacks, that weak signal disappears. Somethings wrong here.
Quote from: stallik on May 10, 2020, 05:19:17 PM
I just BB'd this. Getting the same weak signal - a bit less than bypass with everything flat out. It also hums like a demon but If I ground the jacks, that weak signal disappears. Somethings wrong here.
Almost the exact same schematic as Jack Orman's Son of Screamer except for some power supply (filtering and Vref) changes.
I compared the BB layout to the schematic and it all looks right to me.
Only BIG differences between this and a real TS (except for the input and recovery transistor stages) is the tie to Vref on the Tonestack gain stage (mentioned above) and the output from the op amp went through a 1uF Non-polar cap with a 1K resistor in series before the Volume pot.
Have a look at this thread;
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113985.0#top (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113985.0#top)
A bypass cap for the Vref rail may be the ticket.
Quote from: stallik on May 10, 2020, 05:19:17 PM
I just BB'd this. Getting the same weak signal - a bit less than bypass with everything flat out. It also hums like a demon but If I ground the jacks, that weak signal disappears. Somethings wrong here.
Interesting. I have my in/out jacks grounded on BB. Is that what you mean?
Quote from: Slowpoke101 on May 10, 2020, 06:21:14 PM
Have a look at this thread;
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113985.0#top (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=113985.0#top)
A bypass cap for the Vref rail may be the ticket.
Yep! someone else linked this thread earlier. This is my first IC pedal so it's still a bit over my head. Where would I be placing this cap?
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 10, 2020, 06:55:33 PM
Yep! someone else linked this thread earlier. This is my first IC pedal so it's still a bit over my head. Where would I be placing this cap?
a 47uF/25V (any voltage 16 or over) with the +positive leg in J1 and the -negative leg in Ground.
Already linked the other thread...sigh..one day I may actually read all the posts in a thread. My apologies to Stallik.
Anyway, have a look at the following image. It may help..........
(https://i.postimg.cc/qtkYWHtG/0-0Ats1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtkYWHtG)
You don't need to change the 100K resistors but it would be recommended.
Quote from: Slowpoke101 on May 10, 2020, 07:14:01 PM
Already linked the other thread...sigh..one day I may actually read all the posts in a thread. My apologies to Stallik.
Anyway, have a look at the following image. It may help..........
(https://i.postimg.cc/qtkYWHtG/0-0Ats1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtkYWHtG)
You don't need to change the 100K resistors but it would be recommended.
Hey that (mostly) worked! I've got volume, gain and tone!
Only issue the gain signal seems to fizzle out. Like dying battery type effect.
JIC: Here's the updated pic after Slowpokes suggestions.
I replaced some of the resistors so they are same make/brand. And everything is same as layout besides suggested changes.
Also gain pot is wired reversed on layout (or at least I wired reverse)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yv1fsHXq/B6-DE22-FD-EF27-4-AD8-8-CAE-2987-F9-C69-C5-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yv1fsHXq)
Yeah, Vref isn't "AC ground" without that cap!
Still getting a "fizzy" distortion, like a dying battery effect. I can hear the potential in this thing! just need to figure out what the issue is. All my connections seem good. Using new battery so not sure what the deal is.
Correct schematic is here: http://www.muzique.com/tech/scream.htm
regards, Jack
Any idea what would be causing the fizzing out distortion sound?
I've been through my connections everything seems good.
> a "fizzy" distortion, like a dying battery effect.
> just need to figure out what the issue is.
> Any idea what would be causing the fizzing out distortion sound?
Any ideas what voltages are in there?? Was it posted up-thread and I can't find it?
Quote from: PRR on May 12, 2020, 07:52:28 PM
> a "fizzy" distortion, like a dying battery effect.
> just need to figure out what the issue is.
> Any idea what would be causing the fizzing out distortion sound?
Any ideas what voltages are in there?? Was it posted up-thread and I can't find it?
I haven't taken voltages I'll get on that
Ok so I took voltages. Never done before, I'm assuming I put negative probe on negative track, and positive probe on IC pin.
1 - 4.68 5 - 9.19
2 - 4.69 6 - 4.68
3 - 3.2 7 - 4.68
4 - 0 8 - 4.62
> I took voltages.
Thanks. All as expected. (The "low reading" on pin 3 means your meter is 1Meg.)
Quote from: PRR on May 12, 2020, 10:18:08 PM
> I took voltages.
Thanks. All as expected. (The "low reading" on pin 3 means your meter is 1Meg.)
The readings are ok?
And can you explain what you mean by "meter is 1Meg"
Thank you :)
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 12, 2020, 07:32:33 PM
Any idea what would be causing the fizzing out distortion sound?
I've been through my connections everything seems good.
Are you certain that you used 1N34s and a 1N914 in the feedback loop?
Quote
Are you certain that you used 1N34s and a 1N914 in the feedback loop?
Actually I think the 1n914 is a 1n270 my apologies.
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 12, 2020, 10:31:53 PM
And can you explain what you mean by "meter is 1Meg"..
Your multimeter input impedance is about 1M..
That's the reason you took +3.2VDC reading on pin 3, instead of "ideal" Vcc/2, 'cause multimeter's impedance "loads" (is set in parallel with) 470k bias resistor..
I don't quite get that yet but thanks for going in details for me!
Fizzing out sound may be down to the opamp. Try removing the diodes. Yeh, I know the sound will change but listen to see if you still get the fizzing. If so, try a NE5532. If that's ok, add the diodes back in. I'm breadboarding along with you and that worked for me
Btw, my original quiet sound was down to a duff breadboard. Binned it! There's value to a quality BB...
Quote from: stallik on May 13, 2020, 02:46:43 PM
Fizzing out sound may be down to the opamp. Try removing the diodes. Yeh, I know the sound will change but listen to see if you still get the fizzing. If so, try a NE5532. If that's ok, add the diodes back in. I'm breadboarding along with you and that worked for me
Btw, my original quiet sound was down to a duff breadboard. Binned it! There's value to a quality BB...
Removing the diodes did solve the fizzle (I think). And surprisingly sounds really good?
More of a plexi/dumble sound than a TS. Whoa. Is this against the rules? Lol
If the fizzle went when you removed the diodes then they are causing it. Rules? There are no rules. Well, there are some but if you like the sound of something, there's nothing in the rule book to stop you ;)
Quote from: stallik on May 13, 2020, 03:14:14 PM
If the fizzle went when you removed the diodes then they are causing it. Rules? There are no rules. Well, there are some but if you like the sound of something, there's nothing in the rule book to stop you ;)
Yes ,Is it was the diodes! I put D1 back, a germanium of sorts, and it does round out the tone a bit, back into TS territory. Think I might build 2, one with diodes one without.
Thanks for checking me on that :D
Actually it's not the diodes themselves, if I use More than one diode it causes the fizzle. I'm just going to stick with zero or one for now.
Edit: Now getting fizz without diode. Not quite as bad as a dying battery, more like an unbiased ge transistor sound, but I think I can live with it
That's the beauty of the breadboard. You can try so many variations so quickly. I'd still suggest the 5532 but perhaps that's just my own rabbit hole.
Quote from: stallik on May 13, 2020, 03:52:04 PM
That's the beauty of the breadboard. You can try so many variations so quickly. I'd still suggest the 5532 but perhaps that's just my own rabbit hole.
Yes absolutely, it's my favorite part of building DIY pedals, besides getting to play them. All the stuff in between I could do without ;D
Last question. Not sure the rules on linking other sites, but If I follow this layout, and change to the values discussed here, will I get the same result? Or is this laid out differently?
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/04/son-of-screamer.html
Same circuit so it should be exactly the same. Sometimes a layout can introduce other effects because of the way traces run next to others but I don't think you have to worry in this case.
Excellent thank you again for answering my questions
Quote from: stallik on May 13, 2020, 04:10:25 PM
Same circuit so it should be exactly the same. Sometimes a layout can introduce other effects because of the way traces run next to others but I don't think you have to worry in this case.
Actually one last question (sorry)
There is a 1M on the layout that doesn't appear on the BB layout. Can this be left out?
And another member in this thread recommend at 22uf from negative to J1 on BB, is This represented on layout? Possibly the 47uf? Not quite sure...
1M is a input cap pull-down resistor..
(anti-pop only reason..)
47μF cap (J1 to J3) is for power supply regulation AND LPF cut-off frequency..
With help of 100R resistor (M3 to M7) forms -3db corner frequency of 34Hz - 22μF should raise it up to 72Hz with the risk of power supply rectified frequency (double the mains frequency..) partially(*) enters into IC pin 8..
(IMHO, a 100μF cap of same spacing there should be more adequate for ripple removal..)
(*) depending on mains frequency (50-60Hz) and the degree (-db) of attenuation..
More info about TubeScreamer:
https://www.electrosmash.com/tube-screamer-analysis (https://www.electrosmash.com/tube-screamer-analysis)
and in case you dislike maths/formulae:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/tstech/tsxtech.htm (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/tstech/tsxtech.htm)
Quote from: antonis on May 14, 2020, 08:22:19 AM
1M is a input cap pull-down resistor..
(anti-pop only reason..)
47μF cap (J1 to J3) is for power supply regulation AND LPF cut-off frequency..
With help of 100R resistor (M3 to M7) forms -3db corner frequency of 34Hz - 22μF should raise it up to 72Hz with the risk of power supply rectified frequency (double the mains frequency..) partially(*) enters into IC pin 8..
(IMHO, a 100μF cap of same spacing there should be more adequate for ripple removal..)
(*) depending on mains frequency (50-60Hz) and the degree (-db) of attenuation..
More info about TubeScreamer:
https://www.electrosmash.com/tube-screamer-analysis (https://www.electrosmash.com/tube-screamer-analysis)
and in case you dislike maths/formulae:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/tstech/tsxtech.htm (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/tstech/tsxtech.htm)
Thank you. Does the 1M effect tone?
So to clarify, the 22uf on BB @ J1 & (-) negative rail, is included in the Tag board layout as "47uf" correct?
The tag board also has (2) 47uf whereas the BB layout has none.
Tag board also has a 100R and 47uf between 9v & pin 8 that is not on BB layout.
Sorry, I just really like what I've got on my BB, want to make sure I can build it the same
Here's my crude drawing of what I think I have on my BB. Would this modification work? Please correct me if I am wrong
(https://i.postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj/SOS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj)
Here is BB layout updated with the suggestions from earlier in thread
(https://i.postimg.cc/v11dK2Tv/SOS2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v11dK2Tv)
I could answer you that 1Μ resistor doesn't affect anything else than input impedance..
(but in reality, it forms a HPF with signal source capacitance..)
Anyway, practical answer is: NO, it doesn't affect tone..
I'm confused with different layouts (BB, tagboard, ..) but in general there are 2 electro caps (one for power supply and another for Vbias supply..)
(links posted above was for an elementary familiarization with the particular circuit and not for making yourself Tubescreamer expert, so plz take a brief look to them..)
Modified layout should work but, at least, place a 100nF cap in place of 47μF deleted one for high frequency interference prevention..
edit: 1μF Electro cap on BB is the non-polarized one (L1 to L4) going to Vol pot lug 3..
Quote from: antonis on May 14, 2020, 09:27:36 AM
I could answer you that 1Μ resistor doesn't affect anything else than input impedance..
(but in reality, it forms a HPF with signal source capacitance..)
Anyway, practical answer is: NO, it doesn't affect tone..
I'm confused with different layouts (BB, tagboard, ..) but in general there are 2 electro caps (one for power supply and another for Vbias supply..)
(links posted above was for an elementary familiarization with the particular circuit and not for making yourself Tubescreamer expert, so plz take a brief look to them..)
Modified layout should work but, at least, place a 100nF cap in place of 47μF deleted one for high frequency interference prevention..
I posted a tagboard layout and compared to the BB layout from Beavis, to see if I could follow and have same outcome as BB. And I will definitely look at your links. Sorry I'm in the process of trying to build this pedal at the moment.
I deleted 47uf because the BB I have sounds really nice, and does not have the 47uf. I like to eliminate any necessary components if possible.
If it sounds realy nice, it should be OK with you..
(it should be OK with us also in case of realy nice sounding when working in different locations and/or enviromental conditions..)
Quote from: antonis on May 14, 2020, 09:36:09 AM
If it sounds realy nice, it should be OK with you..
(it should be OK with us also in case of realy nice sounding when working in different locations and/or enviromental conditions..)
Ok
ONE MORE question ;)
On the Breadboard: The 10k from I-1 to (+) Is this same configuration as "my" Drawing?
Does The 9v(+) power go directly to Pin 8 on BB? Or is it passing through 10k @ I-1?
On "drawing" 9v(+) goes through the 10k..
2 X 10k resistors form voltage divider for Vbias..
BOTH on breadbord and drawing, +9V goes directly to IC pin 8.. :icon_wink:
(if you trace lower leg of 10k connected to +9V, you'll see that it's connected to another 10k resistor, the lower leg of the last going to Ground and connection point also goes to 22μF (ΒΒ) or 47μF (drawing) positive leg..)
So, 10k resistor you refer on is considered in parallel (not in series) with IC pin & +9V..
(forget the above.. it could puzzle you more..)
Quote from: antonis on May 14, 2020, 10:53:35 AM
2 X 10k resistors form voltage divider for Vbias..
BOTH on breadbord and drawing, +9V goes directly to IC pin 8.. :icon_wink:
(if you trace lower leg of 10k connected to +9V, you'll see that it's connected to another 10k resistor, the lower leg of the last going to Ground and connection point also goes to 22μF (ΒΒ) or 47μF (drawing) positive leg..)
So, 10k resistor you refer on is considered in parallel (not in series) with IC pin & +9V..
(forget the above.. it could puzzle you more..)
Yes, you know I am easily confused ;D
So I'm good to go? BB is same as layout, I can start soldering
Yes, please...
(but proceed under your own risk..) :icon_mrgreen:
Got it all wired up but unfortunately does not work. Bypass works but pedal does not.
Ignore the electrical tape ;)
(Pedal wasn't working before. Lightly singed outer coating of a wire.)
(https://i.postimg.cc/LhzJfmck/8-AE4-CA8-E-0-A35-4380-99-C4-610994-CA8-FA3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhzJfmck)
What do you mean by "does not work"..??
I press switch no sound.
Power..??
edit1: Can't figure out on what kind of pot lugs are 3 orange wires (Tone) soldered on..
edit2: You've omited D2&D3 so D1 cathode is "open" (no diode into NFB loop)
edit3: Plz post a picture of board solder side..
Quote from: antonis on May 15, 2020, 05:00:37 PM
Power..??
edit1: Can't figure out on what kind of pot lugs are 3 orange wires (Tone) soldered on..
edit2: You've omited D2&D3 so D1 cathode is "open" (no diode into NFB loop)
edit3: Plz post a picture of board solder side..
1. Tone should be wired
(https://i.postimg.cc/XZgmMGmN/SOS1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZgmMGmN)
2. I chose to only used one diode, it seemed to work on BB
3. sorry could only access underside by flipping it over like this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/21RKV7f8/IMG-1439.png) (https://postimg.cc/21RKV7f8)
Top of picture is bottom row of board (if that makes sense)
Missing 0 Volt connection on IC (pin 4 ) :icon_eek: . Check following image.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0bxX5Jdp/OddTS1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bxX5Jdp)
Also your single clipping diode doesn't actually connect anywhere other than pin 2 of the 4558.
It actually has no function. Any clipping that you may experience will be from the 4558 distorting.
There is nothing wrong with that type of distortion as an effect..I actually quite like it but my hearing
is.......weird and getting worse.
Quote from: Slowpoke101 on May 15, 2020, 06:36:10 PM
Missing 0 Volt connection on IC (pin 4 ) :icon_eek: . Check following image.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0bxX5Jdp/OddTS1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bxX5Jdp)
Also your single clipping diode doesn't actually connect anywhere other than pin 2 of the 4558.
It actually has no function. Any clipping that you may experience will be from the 4558 distorting.
There is nothing wrong with that type of distortion as an effect..I actually quite like it but my hearing
is.......weird and getting worse.
I was going to either use one or none, I liked how both sounded I was attempting to do use this one (circled in green). Where should it go?
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2DY2h17/oops.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2DY2h17)
Edit: Grounding pin 4 solved sound issue. But I have no gain, just clean and tone (both of which are wired backwards lol)
Edit:
So I only get a Gain signal if GAIN pot is maxed, and TONE knob is on "0". It's only in that one spot. And it sounds maxed.
Here is current wiring. I had to swap LUG 1 & 3 of TONE and GAIN, they are backward in layout.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ftC5zk4w/ADE847-AC-764-F-40-BD-8267-3-B646739-F431.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftC5zk4w)
Look at the following image;
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZPgTpZf/OddTS2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZPgTpZf)
You have the Tone 2 wire connected incorrectly.
If you want a single diode in the position indicated, reverse the diode and install the wire link as shown.
I recommend installing the 1M resistor. Very helpful for reducing switching noise (thump ) from the foot-switch.
Quote from: Slowpoke101 on May 15, 2020, 08:51:07 PM
Look at the following image;
(https://i.postimg.cc/CZPgTpZf/OddTS2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZPgTpZf)
You have the Tone 2 wire connected incorrectly.
If you want a single diode in the position indicated, reverse the diode and install the wire link as shown.
I recommend installing the 1M resistor. Very helpful for reducing switching noise (thump ) from the foot-switch.
Fixed the TONE 2 wire.
Still no gain, just TONE and VOL unfortunately
Have a close look at the tracks that pins 1 and 2 of the IC are soldered to. You may have a short circuit there - piece of wire, sliver of copper, etc.
You may wish to do a resistance test (low ohms range on your meter ) just to be certain that there is no shorts. Remember to remove power from the effect before measuring resistance.
On the Breadboard I had the 220n that's grounded accidentally on positive and It was working. Does that have anything to do issues on stripboard?
Quote from: Slowpoke101 on May 15, 2020, 09:36:31 PM
Have a close look at the tracks that pins 1 and 2 of the IC are soldered to. You may have a short circuit there - piece of wire, sliver of copper, etc.
You may wish to do a resistance test (low ohms range on your meter ) just to be certain that there is no shorts. Remember to remove power from the effect before measuring resistance.
Still no gain, I do have level and tone
There doesn't seem to be anything shorting IC 1 & 2
Where should I test resistance?
I may be blind but you do not appear to have placed the links shown on the bottom image. Ian has got you to do one but what about the others? Viewing on a phone...
(https://i.postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj/SOS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj)
Quote from: stallik on May 16, 2020, 12:53:51 PM
I may be blind but you do not appear to have placed the links shown on the bottom image. Ian has got you to do one but what about the others? Viewing on a phone...
(https://i.postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj/SOS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj)
I eliminated the 47u that connects to ground using that link. I edited the image you re-posted and erased link on top of circuit. You can see in is original
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0dQHmrz/Son-of-Screamer.png) (https://postimg.cc/r0dQHmrz)
I was trying to recreate what I had built on my bread board and use the layout as a guide. It sounded great, but I can't get the circuit to work.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JtLpx1h7/SOS2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtLpx1h7)
@DJPsychic: This very particular circuit (among many others) is well verified and established as a good & proper working one..
So, plz check your board & pot connections each by each point, then items proper values 'cause, after all, this very particular build is primarily sitting on your hands and secondly on our eyes.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: antonis on May 16, 2020, 02:43:55 PM
@DJPsychic: This very particular circuit (among many others) is well verified and established as a good & proper working one..
So, plz check your board & pot connections each by each point, then items proper values 'cause, after all, this very particular build is primarily sitting on your hands and secondly on our eyes.. :icon_wink:
Yes, I agree. I'm stumped. I may try and do it over again.
Quote from: stallik on May 16, 2020, 12:53:51 PM
I may be blind but you do not appear to have placed the links shown on the bottom image. Ian has got you to do one but what about the others? Viewing on a phone...
(https://i.postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj/SOS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXmn6XZj)
Looking at the version of layout compared to BB, it should work right?
NO..!!
There isn't GND anywhere else than last row, on item side..!!
Quote from: antonis on May 17, 2020, 01:43:04 PM
NO..!!
There isn't GND anywhere else than last row, on item side..!!
Is this directed towards my last post? ???
Of course, it does..!! :icon_wink:
Finally got it working. I tried using the diode as suggested earlier but was getting the "fizzle" effect. Reversed the polarity of the diode and solved most of the fizz, but still didn't sound great. So I'm just goin without it.
That was a challenging build! Glad It's over with (for now) :o
Thanks too all the members who chipped in! :)
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 18, 2020, 06:13:47 PM
So I'm just goin without it.
Without any diode(s) inside NFB loop, you can't call it Tube (or Son of) Screamer, can you..?? :icon_wink:
I'd suggest to wire a pair of high forward voltage drop diodes (like LEDs) and see what will happen..
Quote from: antonis on May 19, 2020, 06:07:18 AM
Quote from: DJPsychic on May 18, 2020, 06:13:47 PM
So I'm just goin without it.
Without any diode(s) inside NFB loop, you can't call it Tube (or Son of) Screamer, can you..?? :icon_wink:
I'd suggest to wire a pair of high forward voltage drop diodes (like LEDs) and see what will happen..
I tried using a germanium diode but i get that "dying battery" sound or "fizzle". :o
Is there a way to increase my TONE range? Theres only a small amount of control at MIN and MAX.
Ge diodes exhibit the lowest forward voltage drop..
That's why I told you to use high forward voltage drop diodes, like LEDs..
About Tone response, plz post the final layout of your build..
Quote from: antonis on May 19, 2020, 06:49:22 AM
Ge diodes exhibit the lowest forward voltage drop..
That's why I told you to use high forward voltage drop diodes, like LEDs..
About Tone response, plz post the final layout of your build..
It is same
edit: with ground on PIN 4 of course ;)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KKvvRhr5/SOS1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKvvRhr5)
I might didn't make myself clear when said:
Quote from: antonis on May 19, 2020, 06:49:22 AM
plz post the final layout of your build..
Layout posted above CAN'T work..!!
(there is no Ground else than last bottom row..)
So, if you have the kindness, post the last WORKING layout..
(sorry but I can't help you without knowing the actual situation..)
Something tells me you'll re-re-repost the same layout, so check what's happening with 1K feedback resistor..
(the one between pin 7 & pin 6, through jumper..)
Quote from: antonis on May 19, 2020, 09:49:35 AM
Something tells me you'll re-re-repost the same layout, so check what's happening with 1K feedback resistor..
(the one between pin 7 & pin 6, through jumper..)
.... and with proper diode/s connections.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QHkxJJmC/FINAL-SOS.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QHkxJJmC)
Did you check for 1k resistor proper connection/value..??
.
[deleted]
Never mind.. :icon_wink: