In the green circle. I'm pretty sure it's a capacitor in the picofarad range, since I can recognize all the other parts and match them against the Dead End FX Flint parts list. But what kind of capacitor? I've never seen anything like that.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jL5Vf8zc/spaceman.png) (https://postimg.cc/jL5Vf8zc)
Looks like high voltage paper cap..
While we're at it, what is this part? Cylindrical object at the bottom. Pulled these from a 1940's console radio.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwZ81G2T/E2-C03-BE1-4335-4-A1-F-96-AD-6-DAA870-E715-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68RJwvQb)
Quote from: Psychophonic on May 22, 2020, 03:04:06 PM
While we're at it, what is this part? Cylindrical object at the bottom. Pulled these from a 1940's console radio.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwZ81G2T/E2-C03-BE1-4335-4-A1-F-96-AD-6-DAA870-E715-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68RJwvQb)
Looks like an inductor
A "Choke"
Any use for it in the guitar pedal world?
Not that I know of. I've got a bunch of those big box silver micas, never used one in anything. Maybe someday.
Quote from: Psychophonic on May 22, 2020, 03:27:19 PM
Any use for it in the guitar pedal world?
No a choke is a filter for certain frequencies.. no use in pedals...
Quote from: willienillie on May 22, 2020, 03:47:24 PM
Not that I know of. I've got a bunch of those big box silver micas, never used one in anything. Maybe someday.
Yeah I need to decipher the dot codes to determine the values. If they're in the range of anything I can use, I'd love to A/B them against their new/modern counterpart.
Quote from: italianguy63 on May 22, 2020, 03:52:05 PM
Quote from: Psychophonic on May 22, 2020, 03:27:19 PM
Any use for it in the guitar pedal world?
No a choke is a filter for certain frequencies.. no use in pedals...
I prefer to think its usefulness is dependent upon the imagination of the builder. :icon_wink:
Could probably use it as a cool looking jumper wire or something.
Quote from: EBK on May 22, 2020, 04:11:53 PM
Could probably use it as a cool looking jumper wire or something.
DC jumper, only.. :icon_wink:
You see inductors in the form of SMD ferrite beads on a lot of commercial pedals for power filtering, particularly for sensitive digital devices. But something that size, probably not super useful.
Use the inductor to great a one band graphic EQ :)
Quote from: slowpogo on May 22, 2020, 02:36:10 PM
In the green circle. I'm pretty sure it's a capacitor in the picofarad range, since I can recognize all the other parts and match them against the Dead End FX Flint parts list. But what kind of capacitor? I've never seen anything like that.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jL5Vf8zc/spaceman.png) (https://postimg.cc/jL5Vf8zc)
Cool! I am waiting for parts for a mojo booster build, this thing here definitely also qualifies for mojo points. I have been looking at a lot of really stupid mojo parts lately. One of my main takeaways is: If you don't know what it is, it's probably a capacitor. There are just oh-so-many super strange caps. "Beeswax-paper cryo capacitors" are bigger than the part in your picture but I would out be surprised if it turned out to be a hand rolled Osmium plated fruit bat earlobe capacitor or something similar. Let us know if you find out, I'm very intrigued by obscure parts.
Cheers,
Andy
Quote from: Psychophonic on May 22, 2020, 04:09:29 PM
Quote from: willienillie on May 22, 2020, 03:47:24 PM
Not that I know of. I've got a bunch of those big box silver micas, never used one in anything. Maybe someday.
Yeah I need to decipher the dot codes to determine the values. If they're in the range of anything I can use, I'd love to A/B them against their new/modern counterpart.
Some of them have the value stamped on, like the .005 1000V in your picture. I have a cap meter too, but doesn't tell about voltage rating, though they were mostly used in tube circuits, so 9V should be no problem. I don't know if they were prone to leakage problems, I would guess not but I've never tested any.
I looked up the schematic for the Saturn V and there are no chokes or coils in there. I wonder if this is a wire resistor?
Quote from: slowpogo on May 22, 2020, 02:36:10 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/jL5Vf8zc/spaceman.png) (https://postimg.cc/jL5Vf8zc)
That board is beautiful...carefully designed for the extremely random collection of mojo components fitted onto it! You could design that same circuit with standard modern parts and it would probably work just the same but it wouldn't be half as much *fun* as that one. Love it.
The stress relief holes for the wires are also classy.
The inductor is only about 20uH (that's micro-henries) or so.
Probably used for some sort of non-critical RF filtering; perhaps from a TV or radio.
Could be on the supply or for signal.
The value is too small for a wah or EQ and the resistance is too high for an SMPS.
Quote from: antonis on May 22, 2020, 02:46:04 PM
Looks like high voltage paper cap..
I have my doubts about this. a high voltage cap would surely have well insulated metalisations/end caps/connections. safety and all that. I am quite prepared to stand for [but not until] any and all corrections.
Quote from: soggybag on May 22, 2020, 07:34:43 PM
I looked up the schematic for the Saturn V and there are no chokes or coils in there. I wonder if this is a wire resistor?
No there are 10 resistors in the circuit and they are all visible. By process of elimination -- 10 resistors, 4 diodes (not counting led), 2 ferrite beads, 4 transistors, 7 caps -- it must be a 100 or 120pf capacitor.
There seems to be some confusion. The choke coil is from an old radio, not the Saturn V.
The funky part is a tricky one. The builder obviously likes to use every type of wired-arsed parts he can find.
Superficially I thought it was a cap.
It's got a glassy fired-ceramic look to it.
Things with end-caps like that are gas-arrestors but I doubt it's one of those, these are usually cylindrical.
The ceramic could point to a power resistor but I haven't seen exposed end-caps on a resistor like that. When end-caps are present they are usually covered with insulating material. FWIW, there's lot's of Dale brand resistors in there.
So it's back to a cap. Maybe it's a NOS part from a Saturn V rocket ;D
(https://images.reverb.com/image/upload/s--yu-NdgPZ--/f_auto,t_supersize/v1560317865/q52yclgctsd4k2sbblwg.jpg)
Put me in the cap camp too. Here's a similar-looking one from my junk stash. This one's German, pulled from a Telefunken V72 preamp (.025uF 250V).
(https://i.postimg.cc/02G1FcCF/DSCF3110.jpg)
Edit to ask: Who makes enclosures in the USA?
It is a capacitor. Russian 100pf/250v silver mica to be exact.
Indicated as C1 in the Flint schematic.
Quote from: digi2t on May 23, 2020, 10:32:18 PM
It is a capacitor. Russian 100pf/250v silver mica to be exact.
Indicated as C1 in the Flint schematic.
awwww, does 250 count as high, really?
Quote from: digi2t on May 23, 2020, 10:32:18 PM
It is a capacitor. Russian 100pf/250v silver mica to be exact.
Indicated as C1 in the Flint schematic.
Nice! I'm trying to build a pseudo-lookalike with the Flint pcb. I found this on ebay, looks to be very similar but 500v instead of 250:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100pF-5-tol-500V-SILVER-MICA-Capacitors-SGM-NOS-QTY-10pcs/184186025456?hash=item2ae257b5f0:g:WukAAOSwm11eVR0q
Close enough, shirley. Unless too big for your board. Also, ribbon leads = Mojo!
Quote from: willienillie on May 24, 2020, 03:57:58 PM
Close enough, shirley. Unless too big for your board. Also, ribbon leads = Mojo!
...and from the look of that pedal, immaculate lead dress = Mojo!
ebay has the Philips (top left blue cap) too:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Philips-Polypropylene-Film-Foil-Capacitor-100pF-630V-2222-464-81001-/122048296741
The other weird cap is a Mial polystyrene which I can't find anywhere, but I'll live. Besides the F&T, everything else is typical Mouser stuff.
https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/capacitor-ft-100v-100-f-axial-lead (https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/capacitor-ft-100v-100-f-axial-lead)
Quote from: slowpogo on May 24, 2020, 06:58:39 PM
ebay has the Philips (top left blue cap) too:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Philips-Polypropylene-Film-Foil-Capacitor-100pF-630V-2222-464-81001-/122048296741
The other weird cap is a Mial polystyrene which I can't find anywhere, but I'll live. Besides the F&T, everything else is typical Mouser stuff.
It might all be available at mouser, but they're not making it easy on themselves. I think I count seven different types of resistor and three different diodes inside that thing. I'm quite sure there's no earthly reason for that. I suppose that's why they're called Spaceman pedals.
It's just the way they roll. The parts and values can be as exotic as the pedals themselves.
I thought I'd share what I've come up with in my quest to identify the actual Saturn V parts used, or at least something that is functionally equivalent and looks the same. I'm referencing the Flint circuit. Some of these would obviously require some creativity to "fit" on the Flint board, especially the F&T, but I believe it could be done. Some may find this endeavor, and Spaceman's way of doing things, a waste of time/energy/money but I personally love the aesthetic attention to detail even inside the pedal. The "mojo" debate rages eternal but who knows, some of these weird esoteric parts just may impart a slightly different tonality, for those who want to close that last 1% gap of authenticity.
R1:
Blue metal film 4M7
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-RN60D-F-10K
R2:
Brown metal film with bands, 6k19. Best guess at Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-CCF556K19FKE36
R3, R5:
Vishay Dale RN60 10k
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-RN60D-F-10K
R4:
Mini carbon film 3k9
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/603-CFR-12JB-52-3K9
R6, R7:
Blue metal film 1k69
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/603-MFR-25FBF52-1K69
R8, R9:
Brown metal film, smooth un-banded barrel, 3k01. Best guess at Mouser:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-PTF563K0100BZBF
R10:
Mini blue metal film, 1k5
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-CCF556K19FKE36
D1,3,5:
Random vintage 1N4148?? Pedalhacker has some likely candidates
https://www.pedalhackerelectronics.com/searchresults.asp?Search=1n4148
D2:
ST Micro blue BAT46
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/71-CCF556K19FKE36
C1:
Russian Silver Mica 100n
https://www.ebay.com/itm/100pF-5-tol-500V-SILVER-MICA-Capacitors-SGM-NOS-QTY-10pcs/184186025456?hash=item2ae257b5f0:g:WukAAOSwm11eVR0q
C2:
Blue EPCOS, I assume the B32529 series that everyone uses (in some photos it's a white box cap)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/871-B32529C273J289
C3:
Mial blue polystyrene 120p. Can't find any blue ones in this value
C4:
Red Panasonic film cap
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/667-ECQ-E2184KB3
C5:
Yellow barrel polyester cap such as Mallory. Mouser has the Vishay Roedenstein equivalent:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/75-MKT1813410014
C6:
F&T 100uf/100v
https://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/capacitor-ft-100v-100-f-axial-lead
C7:
Philips polypropylene film 100n
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Philips-Polypropylene-Film-Foil-Capacitor-100pF-630V-2222-464-81001-/122048296741
Not meanin' to pee in your fav breakfast cereal, but don't go too nuts with the authenticity angle. The only thing you'll really gain is the visual mojo, but not much more.
I traced this from a loaner unit. When I completed the clone, I did a full A/B recording session with the clone vs. the original. The clone used bog standard parts (1/4w metal film resistors, metallized poly caps, blablabla. What you find at Tayda on any given day). The only real goal here is to try and match the published voltages as closely as possible.
Unfortunately, I have no hippy poetry to offer (the Saturn V offered a more flavored high frequency response, whilst the clone was quite delicious in the mid range bullshit). There was no discernable difference to my ears.
Quite ironically... when I offered the blind taste test of the two clips to the owner of the Saturn V... he picked the clone soundtrack as his unit. Go figure. :icon_rolleyes:
I figured as much. Without wanting to reignite an ageless debate that will never be resolved -- I was arguing in favor of Black Gate capacitors 15 years ago :icon_rolleyes: -- I've sometimes been surprised the way swapping parts can subtly affect the sound of a guitar amp, headphone amp or pedal. I've never measured things so it may be in my head but even so I'm quite happy to live in my own delusion. Otherwise, I like making an otherwise simple build a little more challenging, and should I ever decide to try and sell it (hopefully I'll never want to!) I think the authentic visual aspect would help make that happen. I figure that's worth the extra $15 or so this will add to the build cost, but I totally understand those who don't.
this is a cool thread, i like the detective work. i'm doing a flint board right now and i have a question on that 100uf.100v capacitor. does it have to be a 100v component, or is that just to make it big and cool? i can't seem to find one with that rating that will fit onto the board without sticking WAAAAY up. any thoughts, hints, or clues?
Quote from: textbook on July 09, 2020, 02:32:13 PM
does it have to be a 100v component?
Of course not, it's only going to see 9 V tops (or whatever you feed it). In the spirit of the original, just use whatever looks coolest.
hah, now you're talking. i figured as much. i'm just starting to dip my toes into the nutty gritty functionality of what's actually going on electronically with this stuff, so while i assumed ghe 100v thing was more for mojo, i wasn't going to ignore the notation on the build doc without at least asking first 👍
Quote from: textbook on July 09, 2020, 05:34:41 PM
hah, now you're talking. i figured as much. i'm just starting to dip my toes into the nutty gritty functionality of what's actually going on electronically with this stuff, so while i assumed ghe 100v thing was more for mojo, i wasn't going to ignore the notation on the build doc without at least asking first 👍
Make sure to go for the biggest, COOLEST, and RAREST cap you can possibly find! After all, you don't want someone else coming long afterwards and cloning *your* pedal, do you?!? Best way to avoid that is to use parts no-one else has...Make it your own!
I said much earlier in this thread that I love this pedal. I think it's a really creative piece of work. OF COURSE all those "mojo" parts aren't required for the sound, but paying attention to the whole visual style of the *inside* of the pedal as well as the outside lifts it to another level. So I have total respect for this despite being convinced it has no bearing on the sonic result at all!!
QuoteMake sure to go for the biggest, COOLEST, and RAREST cap you can possibly find! After all, you don't want someone else coming long afterwards and cloning *your* pedal, do you?!? Best way to avoid that is to use parts no-one else has...Make it your own!
Epoxy/Araldite over the top of green-caps to make your own caps like this,
(http://media.rs-online.com/t_large/R3111030-02.jpg)
Except make your own labels and mark them with the wrong value of course. That will teach those cloners once and for all.
Here's my build using the parts from my list above. The Flint board doesn't prioritize sexiness so it's not quite as cool looking as the original, but it's pretty sweet. And OBVIOUSLY it sounds better this way ;) This pedal is a great always-on fairy duster, just adds the slightest pro sheen to everything.
(https://i.postimg.cc/YLNm68mZ/IMG-0320.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YLNm68mZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/K4tLhcsf/IMG-0319.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4tLhcsf)
very cool build! you crammed that big cap in there anyway! i used some of the links you provided as well, so mine will have some definite similarities. i think building and designing with aesthetic in mind is awesome. if you're going to make something, why not make it looks interesting. it becomes a bespoke piece of functional design rather than just another pedal. that makes it special in its own right, even if it doesn't sound any better/different.
DIY Power MOSFET, (lounge)
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=124910.0
Quote from: Rob Strand on July 09, 2020, 09:14:26 PM
QuoteMake sure to go for the biggest, COOLEST, and RAREST cap you can possibly find! After all, you don't want someone else coming long afterwards and cloning *your* pedal, do you?!? Best way to avoid that is to use parts no-one else has...Make it your own!
Epoxy/Araldite over the top of green-caps to make your own caps like this,
(http://media.rs-online.com/t_large/R3111030-02.jpg)
Except make your own labels and mark them with the wrong value of course. That will teach those cloners once and for all.
I find the hardest part of this is moulding all the end-cracks in the epoxy, y'no, so's they look real.
QuoteI find the hardest part of this is moulding all the end-cracks in the epoxy, y'no, so's they look real.
Ah yes, I've got a few where the epoxy is peeling off the body part.
I guess the cracked ones are old-old-stock and non-cracked ones are new-old-stock.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2qrbQZRr/667-D9-A9-B-C215-491-C-BEBC-898-BC3-D329-D0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qrbQZRr)
SMALL WORLD... i just stumbled upon that exact cap at my local surplus place on friday 🤯
Anyone know what this is? I'm combing my scrap boards for a pair of .15uF caps. Haven't found anything marked 154.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzRbC92h/782039-B0-847-B-41-DC-9886-8-B8-EF661369-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bRgZ7y0)
Does it measure 150pF?
Quote from: willienillie on August 08, 2020, 05:00:04 PM
Does it measure 150pF?
I'm fairly new to this and have not ordered the $20 tester yet. Coming soon.
I haven't tried to look up the numbers but it could save a bit of time measuring it with an ohm meter. If it has a low resistance it could be a PTC device.
polyswitch, resettable fuse - like Rob sez.
Thank you gentlemen. I went ahead and ordered the caps I need.