DIYstompboxes.com

Hi guys. I am here again :D
I was thinking "after the first pedals I will take a break". Well, now I changed my mind. :) a friend just gave an old boss bcb-6 case ( one with no Integrated power supply but with a boss psm-5 pedal) and when I placed my few pedals in it, it seems quite empty (I modified it first).
So I have to fill it :) And I want to use it with both bass and guitar.

(https://i.postimg.cc/XBCmV3nm/Pt2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBCmV3nm)

Here is a list:
1) an overdrive, the Tchula. I wanna use the b3k on guitar as well but It's not distorted enough, so I want on overdrive in front of it to push it a bit more. I went for the tschula because it fits in a 1590A (which I hate, but have no space...). I am still thinking of a pure distortion pedal but I couldn't find a nice one for 1590A and I actually like the b3k sound on guitar. I was thinking also about the tentacle I made but it's too "characteristic" for this

(https://i.postimg.cc/FfcxsxqW/12061745-5-D4-D-4-CB4-9044-C97585-ACCA49.png) (https://postimg.cc/FfcxsxqW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Ms06w18/87-CF0-A69-3485-4-ACF-86-DA-82-CDDE64029-A.png) (https://postimg.cc/0Ms06w18)


2) a modulation pedal. Here not sure yet: a zombie chorus, a pitch pirate, a pitch pirate deluxe, a phaser 45. The Layout of zombie seems to be not 100% correct; The pirates are are a bit extreme and the deluxe is probably too big for a 1590B (6 knobs). does anyone have any experience with them? I never had a phaser, could be interesting...
Here. Is the mxr phase 45. not sure the schematic is correct

(https://i.postimg.cc/vD8SXpCG/0606118-B-11-D8-4-D97-880-A-85-C4-A2-EEFFBE.png) (https://postimg.cc/vD8SXpCG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WLfqtHm/D31870-D1-497-E-4-C9-A-ACC6-4-CB303-FE01-AF.png) (https://postimg.cc/3WLfqtHm)


3) a delay, the rebote delay, again, just because it's a 1590A.

(https://i.postimg.cc/kV92KFGh/080-D2-FDE-5097-43-E6-8706-38667-FBC9-F2-B.png) (https://postimg.cc/kV92KFGh)
I couldn't find the schematic :/

4) a tremolo, the vibutron. This also seems to have some issues, I have to dig a bit. Btw I used to hate tremolos. Till today. I love it now :D

(https://i.postimg.cc/18MQ7pMd/40-B96090-D74-B-41-CE-9-C45-260-CF8-D30976.png) (https://postimg.cc/18MQ7pMd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VJzwF79M/ADA6-A20-A-614-B-44-F1-A8-CC-4-F827457-D7-AC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJzwF79M)

i will also do a small box (i think with some plexiglass i have at home) with 4 holes for jacks so i can plug there the guitar cable, the amp cable and the first and last pedals of the chain.
And I will add a red fuel tank as supply. I will daisy 2 pedals in 1 input (no space :( )

Well, any advice is appreciated :)
Thanks guys

hello again.  ;)

Overdrive? Fuzz? Distortion? Dunno, sounds different with each diode you choose... :icon_biggrin:
Bazz Fuzz:
http://home-wrecker.com/bazz.html

Here are some nice phasers...
Parasit phaser:
https://www.parasitstudio.se/building-blog/parasite-phaser
EQD Depths (more like a vibe, but the ckt is like a phaser.)
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2017/01/earthquaker-devices-depths.html

If your pedalboard is constraining you... get a bigger one!  :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 27, 2020, 04:48:19 PM
I was thinking "after the first pedals I will take a break". Well, now I changed my mind. :)

I've heard that before. And I said that before. A lot. Lol.

Here are a few suggestions:
1)

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 27, 2020, 04:48:19 PM
I am still thinking of a pure distortion pedal but I couldn't find a nice one for 1590A

What do you have in mind? My pedalboard is almost 1590A-only, including distortions. My dirt pedals are Mad Professor Sweet Honey, Hermida's Zen Drive, Pro Co Rat, Soulsonic's Hunny Bunny, EH Big Muff, Doug Hammond's Route 89, and I'm about to add Jonny Reckless' Little Jim.
2) the Phase 45 is a subtle phaser. The Phase 90 is awesome, but you should use matched fets. The Parasite Phaser is a good choice. I have a Zombie Chorus in a 1590A, which is amazing, but it have some noise issues (not a big deal imo).
3) there are a few 1590A delays. I think I saw a layout for the Deep Blue Delay somewhere. And I have a Madbean Cave Dweller on my pedalboard.
4) for tremolo, go with the best one: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/culturejam-shoot-moon.html. Add the ramp up/down mod from this schematic (https://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/tremulus.php) and you'll have an amazing tremolo.

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 27, 2020, 04:48:19 PM
Hi guys. I am here again :D
I was thinking "after the first pedals I will take a break". Well, now I changed my mind. :) a friend just gave an old boss bcb-6 case ( one with no Integrated power supply but with a boss psm-5 pedal) and when I placed my few pedals in it, it seems quite empty (I modified it first).
So I have to fill it :) And I want to use it with both bass and guitar.

(https://i.postimg.cc/XBCmV3nm/Pt2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBCmV3nm)

Here is a list:
1) an overdrive, the Tchula. I wanna use the b3k on guitar as well but It's not distorted enough, so I want on overdrive in front of it to push it a bit more. I went for the tschula because it fits in a 1590A (which I hate, but have no space...). I am still thinking of a pure distortion pedal but I couldn't find a nice one for 1590A and I actually like the b3k sound on guitar. I was thinking also about the tentacle I made but it's too "characteristic" for this

(https://i.postimg.cc/FfcxsxqW/12061745-5-D4-D-4-CB4-9044-C97585-ACCA49.png) (https://postimg.cc/FfcxsxqW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Ms06w18/87-CF0-A69-3485-4-ACF-86-DA-82-CDDE64029-A.png) (https://postimg.cc/0Ms06w18)


2) a modulation pedal. Here not sure yet: a zombie chorus, a pitch pirate, a pitch pirate deluxe, a phaser 45. The Layout of zombie seems to be not 100% correct; The pirates are are a bit extreme and the deluxe is probably too big for a 1590B (6 knobs). does anyone have any experience with them? I never had a phaser, could be interesting...
Here. Is the mxr phase 45. not sure the schematic is correct

(https://i.postimg.cc/vD8SXpCG/0606118-B-11-D8-4-D97-880-A-85-C4-A2-EEFFBE.png) (https://postimg.cc/vD8SXpCG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3WLfqtHm/D31870-D1-497-E-4-C9-A-ACC6-4-CB303-FE01-AF.png) (https://postimg.cc/3WLfqtHm)


3) a delay, the rebote delay, again, just because it's a 1590A.

(https://i.postimg.cc/kV92KFGh/080-D2-FDE-5097-43-E6-8706-38667-FBC9-F2-B.png) (https://postimg.cc/kV92KFGh)
I couldn't find the schematic :/

4) a tremolo, the vibutron. This also seems to have some issues, I have to dig a bit. Btw I used to hate tremolos. Till today. I love it now :D

(https://i.postimg.cc/18MQ7pMd/40-B96090-D74-B-41-CE-9-C45-260-CF8-D30976.png) (https://postimg.cc/18MQ7pMd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VJzwF79M/ADA6-A20-A-614-B-44-F1-A8-CC-4-F827457-D7-AC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VJzwF79M)

i will also do a small box (i think with some plexiglass i have at home) with 4 holes for jacks so i can plug there the guitar cable, the amp cable and the first and last pedals of the chain.
And I will add a red fuel tank as supply. I will daisy 2 pedals in 1 input (no space :( )

Well, any advice is appreciated :)
Thanks guys

I think I heard somewhere recently, maybe the scuttle buttin PM video, SRV used an always on trem (coming from his amp not a pedal - the vibro verb maybe?) ? i may have to do some googling but im with you on trem seemed like something I didnt have any interest in until not too long ago. im also into weird shoe gaze now ..there is some lad who makes hours long guitar videos that I sleep to with all kinds of interesting noises in them ..

Thanks everyone :)

Quote from: 11-90-an on September 27, 2020, 09:57:27 PM
Parasit phaser:
https://www.parasitstudio.se/building-blog/parasite-phaser
EQD Depths (more like a vibe, but the ckt is like a phaser.)
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2017/01/earthquaker-devices-depths.html

If your pedalboard is constraining you... get a bigger one!  :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:

The EQD Depths was in my list but when i saw 5 pots i gave up. But i just found a 1590B layout with everything boardmounted. So i am thinking i could go for it... i am just scared to have a tremolo and a vibe on the same pedalboard (the are not same but they both have a pulse). Then maybe would be better a chorus... mmm you confused me now :D no. i will go for the depths. Maybe two pulses will actually create some nice effect.

And no, no bigger pedalboard.  ;D This will host already 9-10 pedals. I am 60Kg, i can't carry around a pedalboard heavier than me :D I didn't even want a pedalboard 2 weeks ago!

Quote from: Marcos - Munky on September 27, 2020, 10:43:08 PM
My dirt pedals are Mad Professor Sweet Honey, Hermida's Zen Drive, Pro Co Rat, Soulsonic's Hunny Bunny, EH Big Muff, Doug Hammond's Route 89, and I'm about to add Jonny Reckless' Little Jim.
2) the Phase 45 is a subtle phaser. The Phase 90 is awesome, but you should use matched fets. The Parasite Phaser is a good choice. I have a Zombie Chorus in a 1590A, which is amazing, but it have some noise issues (not a big deal imo).
3) there are a few 1590A delays. I think I saw a layout for the Deep Blue Delay somewhere. And I have a Madbean Cave Dweller on my pedalboard.
4) for tremolo, go with the best one: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/04/culturejam-shoot-moon.html. Add the ramp up/down mod from this schematic (https://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/tremulus.php) and you'll have an amazing tremolo.

1) which one could you fit into a 1590A? They seem all quite big. It's complicated, i never played with a distortion pedal, i always use the amp. Apart from a behringer hd3000 (i think) to push my small amp years ago (And it sounded AMAZING for a 15w amp). I generally like smooth sounds, i am really not into the RAT or any fuzzy distortion, i like more "modern" distortions (I love Steve Vai's sound, probably my fav tone) but i can't find a 1590A
2) I actually don't like the phaser sound that much :D (or any other mod sound), i only like it when it's really subtle. That's why i was thinking of the 45. But as 11-90-an suggested, a Depths could be a good solution. Lots of sounds and i can just use it with really low values to have a subtle effect.
3) the delay i posted is actually a mod of the DBD :D I want something small because i'm either 1590A or 1590BB with tap tempo, nothing in between... And i have no more space so far for another BB
4) I love it and seems more people did it, so less probability of failing. I'm just not sure what the mod does. :/


So, so far we are:
1) distortion/OD: Tchula but not sure of it unless i use it together with the b3k.
2) mod: EQD Depths
3) delay: Rebote delay
4) Tremolo: Shoot the moon

I start to make the components list  :icon_mrgreen:

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 27, 2020, 04:48:19 PM
Hi guys. I am here again :D
I was thinking "after the first pedals I will take a break". Well, now I changed my mind. :)

I TOLD YOU SO!!!!   HAHAHA!

For the overdrive, try the Electra (the article I sent you in your other post).  It is simple, can be made to fit in a 1590A, and the article will teach you a bit about what each part does.

For a Chorus (although it took me about 4 tries to get it to work, the Little Angel is a fun and not so complicated circuit (PT2399 are a bit finnicky, but I am sure you can get it to work).

For delay, I like the Deep Blue Delay.  Another PT2399 project...  I got 2 of those, one qith and one without tap tempo (which is a VERY nice addition!).

Other ideas you can play with include AutoWah (I like 7 Dwarfs), EQ (I went with a pedal version pf the PAiA 4 band semiparametric; I modified it tonuse with guitar.  If you want, I can share the eagke files with you), OCD (another good OD), a RAT ('nough said), or a EA Tremolo (what is it with me and old magazine articles??? Must be a desease or something!).

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 28, 2020, 02:47:11 PM
1) which one could you fit into a 1590A? They seem all quite big. It's complicated, i never played with a distortion pedal, i always use the amp. Apart from a behringer hd3000 (i think) to push my small amp years ago (And it sounded AMAZING for a 15w amp). I generally like smooth sounds, i am really not into the RAT or any fuzzy distortion, i like more "modern" distortions (I love Steve Vai's sound, probably my fav tone) but i can't find a 1590A

Well... which one do you want to fit a 1590A? :icon_mrgreen: Almost all my dirty boxes are on 1590As (all but a clone of the Okko Dominator). I'm limited to 4 pots, because I don't use 9mm pots but 16mm ones, so I didn't made things like the Triple Wreck, but I know it's doable.

If you're into amp distortions, I'd suggest you to check this one: https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=125174.0. I just shared my verified 1590A layout on this topic.

You can also try the Dimension P if you want a a very thick, lush, chorus... uses 2 PT2399s
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=94435.0

>The EQD Depths was in my list but when i saw 5 pots i gave up
Don't worry... you'll get used to it someday... :icon_mrgreen:

+1 for the DimP.  I've built three, which have all gone to good homes.  I'm planning a fourth, which I'll keep.

QuoteFor the overdrive, try the Electra (the article I sent you in your other post).  It is simple, can be made to fit in a 1590A, and the article will teach you a bit about what each part does.

The idea is cool, but a bit too arsh for my taste i guess. :(

QuoteFor a Chorus (although it took me about 4 tries to get it to work, the Little Angel is a fun and not so complicated circuit (PT2399 are a bit finnicky, but I am sure you can get it to work).

I was thinking about that or the Dimension P. Which problems did you have with it?

QuoteFor delay, I like the Deep Blue Delay.  Another PT2399 project...  I got 2 of those, one qith and one without tap tempo (which is a VERY nice addition!).

Yeah, if i had more space i would definitely go for a tap tempo delay. Maybe in the future...

QuoteOther ideas you can play with include AutoWah (I like 7 Dwarfs), EQ (I went with a pedal version pf the PAiA 4 band semiparametric; I modified it tonuse with guitar.  If you want, I can share the eagke files with you), OCD (another good OD), a RAT ('nough said), or a EA Tremolo (what is it with me and old magazine articles??? Must be a desease or something!).

Don't put too many ideas in my head :D i said i will make another 2 pedals, now i am already at 4, maybe 5  :icon_mrgreen:

QuoteYou can also try the Dimension P if you want a a very thick, lush, chorus... uses 2 PT2399s

Sounds cool, i am just worried of the 2x 2399. Shall i buy like 10 of them and try different combinations of them? Also wait, i am not sure i wanna do a chorus, don't i?
Is it worth the 2 switches mod?

QuoteIf you're into amp distortions, I'd suggest you to check this one: https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=125174.0. I just shared my verified 1590A layout on this topic.

You got me with this. It sounds amazing. probabily i will need help when buying the components, my green caps are huge... And great sheet btw. Components list, layout, pcb all in the same page. Great. Also, any advice for the drilling?

Quoteprobabily i will need help when buying the components, my green caps are huge

hate to sound like a paid advertiser, but if you live in southeast asia then you can get small ceramic caps cheap:
https://shopee.ph/Ceramic-capacitor-Assorted-Kit-2PF-0.1UF-i.92393770.1609876529

however, if i'm not mistaken, you don't live in southeast asia...

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 29, 2020, 06:52:26 AM
Sounds cool, i am just worried of the 2x 2399. Shall i buy like 10 of them and try different combinations of them?

IMHO, this is unnecessary.  It's a function of the circuit that locks-up the chip, not because they are flaky to begin with.  I've only had one or two go bad.  All my DimP build have worked perfectly first time, as have 99% of my other PT2399 pedals.  Buy 10 if there's a good price break, or you have 10 projects in mind, not because you expect 8 to fail.

Quote from: ghiekorg
Is it worth the 2 switches mod?

Yes.

QuoteBuy 10 if there's a good price break, or you have 10 projects in mind

https://shopee.ph/10PCS-PT2399-DIP16-PT2399-DIP-new-and-original-IC-i.92393770.1641761860
::)
Bought them and of course, they *are* fakes/imitations. I didn't test them out yet, they're just sitting in by parts bin, but from the reviews they seem to work...

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 29, 2020, 06:52:26 AM
You got me with this. It sounds amazing. probabily i will need help when buying the components, my green caps are huge... And great sheet btw. Components list, layout, pcb all in the same page. Great. Also, any advice for the drilling?

Yeah, it indeed sounds amazing. I'm planning on boxing mine as soon as I finish some more artwork to print at the same paper, then I'll box it and add it to my pedalboard. It really rocks!

I use ceramic caps, they're very small. For drilling, I use a 0.8mm drill bit now, but I tried ones like 0.7mm and 1mm with no problem. Actually, I think that was my threshold, I can't go lower than 0.7mm or higher than 1mm, or things won't go as expected. When I make layouts, I don't do things like running a trace between IC pins or space the holes for closer than the distance between two IC pins (well, I do the later sometimes, but it's rare). So if you can easily solder a IC (for pin spacing), you can build the Little Jim using my layout with no problem at all. Btw I just noticed I didn't said the red trace was a jumper, I'll update that later.

Quoteif you live in southeast asia

No, i live in Switzerland  :icon_mrgreen: and here is really difficult to find anything. Last order from germany i had to pay 25€ to import a package worth 120€. Crazy. This time i will try to order everything from mouser or digikey

Quote from: bluebunny on September 29, 2020, 08:50:39 AM
IMHO, this is unnecessary.  It's a function of the circuit that locks-up the chip, not because they are flaky to begin with.  I've only had one or two go bad.  All my DimP build have worked perfectly first time, as have 99% of my other PT2399 pedals.  Buy 10 if there's a good price break, or you have 10 projects in mind, not because you expect 8 to fail.

I can pay them around 1.20€ each if i take 5+. If i make the chorus and the delay i need already 3...
About the mod i have to search/read about it. I checked quickly during lunch pause but found nothing

QuoteI use ceramic caps, they're very small

reading a book about mods i read "till 1nF ceramics, till 1uF film, more then 1uF electrolitic". What's the actual difference in sound?
For drilling i meant the case :D 3 pots on a 1590A seems tough...

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 29, 2020, 10:15:09 AM

QuoteI use ceramic caps, they're very small

reading a book about mods i read "till 1nF ceramics, till 1uF film, more then 1uF electrolitic". What's the actual difference in sound?
For drilling i meant the case :D 3 pots on a 1590A seems tough...

Nowadays you can get 1uF multi layer ceramics, which works pretty well. Some says the ceramics are worse than films, they're noisy and other stuff, but to tell the truth for pedal building there's almost no audible difference between ceramics and films. Maybe you can hear some difference if you play on studio, under a controlled and silent environment, but for live playing I really doubt you'll hear anything. Ceramics indeed can't be used for some applications, but those applications aren't related to pedal building.

3 pots on a 1590A isn't that hard. I can use up to 4 pots because I use 16mm ones, but I know I can go up to 6 pots if I use 9mm ones. I made a template on photoshop where I create the artwork, and I have layers for 2, 3 and 4 holes already placed where I need them. I just pick the suitable layer and use it as part of the artwork. Then I have a dot showing where exactly I have to drill the holes.

Then I use a stepped drill (this one (https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005001310837062.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.14535922NtKHmE&algo_pvid=dccfc8ae-716f-4f2d-9b2d-627cb42eb664&algo_expid=dccfc8ae-716f-4f2d-9b2d-627cb42eb664-1&btsid=0bb0622a16013922088847633ef4f5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_)). For pedal building, the 3mm to 12mm one is perfect, as 3mm is the size for a led and 12mm is the size for a 3pdt, and everything else go in between those values.

Then I could give a try to bigger ceramics caps. They seems way smaller, my green 470nF is huge and in general I always have to bend them a bit to make them fit properly.

Would you mind sharing your psd file? I did some templates myself but I didn't verify them so would be cool to have a verified one
Thanks a lot 😊

The Deep Blue Delay or the Tonepad Rebote 2.5 are both worthy PT2399 delays.  I would avoid those that simply rely on the delay chip alone and do not provide any op-amp-based input or mixer/output stage.

Although pretty much any and all analog and PT2399-based delays include lowpass filtering to keep audio garbage from the delay path and output, they also aim for the most bandwidth they can squeeze out of the longest delay they aim for.  In the real physical world, high-frequency content tends to be eaten up and quickly diminished by non-reflecting surfaces.  I find I can get a more realistic-sound delay if I add a bit of lowpass filtering to the feedback/repeats signal.

That mod achieves a few things:
1) it moves repeats to the perceptual background, in a manner similar to the way that the backgrounds on video games are blurred a bit to help you focus on the foreground;
2) the ongoing attenuation of higher-frequency content removes more of the "audio grime" that can accumulate at longer delays with multiple repeats;
3) it simply sounds more realistic;
4) you can max out the repeats without inviting runaway feedback.

In the case of the Deep Blue Delay, there is already some additional lowpass filtering in the feedback path, in the form of a 2k and 47nf network.  That provides a shallow rolloff starting around 1.7khz, which is fine for short delays.  I will suggest using a toggle switch to add a 33-47nf cap in parallel with the existing 47nf unit.  That will lower the rolloff point to just under 1khz (adding .033 to .047) or just under 850hz (putting an additional 47nf in parallel). 

Keep in mind that the rolloff is pretty shallow (6db/oct) so there is generally still more upper mids and treble to roll off, even when the rolloff frequency seems extremely low.  The dampening of upper content is progressive, rather than steep and fixed.  That's a big part of what adds to the realism.

Thanks Mark. I like the idea, i am just not sure i could be able to fit a switch too in a 1590A (plus the other components you said). And i wanna point the "I". The 8 bitar already drove me crazy (ok, it was my first pedal ever).

Just a quick recap:
1) Distortion 1590A: Little Jim
   All clear here. I just have some doubts about the wiring of the pots, but i haven't checked deeper yet
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y41Lk3V7/Screenshot-2020-09-29-at-21-01-15.png) (https://postimg.cc/Y41Lk3V7)

2) Mod 1590B: Depths
   I will use this PCB i found on reddit (i guess), everything board mounted. I just have no clue what's a CLR and why the LDR have different sizes. I will have to check it properly... also i don't quite get the sentence "right angle pots are mounted to the solder side"  :o
(https://i.postimg.cc/RNHHX4Rq/Screenshot-2020-09-29-at-21-12-13.png) (https://postimg.cc/RNHHX4Rq)

3) Delay 1590A: Rebote
    I will go for this easy version, unless Mark will help me out with the mod :D (what about putting the caps fixed without the switch? Also i don't see in which part of the layout you see these values, maybe the rebote is slightly different in values?)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fkhnJvrF/Screenshot-2020-09-29-at-21-08-16.png) (https://postimg.cc/fkhnJvrF)

4) Tremolo 1590B: shoot the moon
   I will follow the layouts underneath, with the pots board mounted, but i would like to have the pulsing LED to be off when the pedal is not engaged (this or no pulsing LED at all, i don't like LEDs working when the pedal is off). I don't get 2 things: what is the LED D2 doing? isn't it pulsing as well (for the LDR)? Also why the LDR and the LED has to be together in a shrinking tube?
(https://i.postimg.cc/v4GZfs2J/Screenshot-2020-09-29-at-21-15-25.png) (https://postimg.cc/v4GZfs2J)

5) Chorus 1590B: Dimension P
   Yeah, i hate you guys :D <3 i guess i will build this too. I just want to make 4 but i can't decide... So i make them all and then i will check what fits in my pedalboard. Here on the forum i found this PCB for 1590B but no components list or values. I guess they are just simply the same numbers as the "original" version. I have to check it too. Also i have to find the 2 switches mod somewhere. And i read about the possibility to have 2x 7805, one for each 2399. Any thought about it?
(https://i.postimg.cc/yg1GyfCY/Screenshot-2020-09-29-at-21-26-22.png) (https://postimg.cc/yg1GyfCY)

I wanted to order the components today but i guess i will not be able to do it before the end of the week... So much stuff to learn  :icon_eek:

Quote from: jfrabat on September 28, 2020, 05:14:00 PM
For the overdrive, try the Electra (the article I sent you in your other post). 

The Tchula IS an Electra (well, ok, variant) just like several Lovepedal designs (COT50, Les Lius, etc.). There is a lot of potential that can be realized in that simple design just by tweaking a few variables here or there. Have a look also at Fred Briggs's variants at his website La Revolution Deux. If you have a breadboard, exploring all the variations on this basic format would be a great way to use it.

I designed a vero layout for the Dimension-P, which I can post if you're interested.

Thank you Ben N. I will give it a look at it, could be useful for my next pedal :D (if i really realise these other 5 pedals either i will never build pedals again or i will just start building several pedalboards i guess) I have no bread board, i should learn how to use one...

About the Dimension P: I found this schematic https://sites.google.com/site/distorque/home/projects/pictures/DP%20Modded%201-1.png
What i get is there are 2 spst (?) switches just before R24 and R23. Looking at the layout, can i go from this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/jL7qnh6J/Screenshot-2020-09-29-at-22-30-08.png) (https://postimg.cc/jL7qnh6J)
to this?
(https://i.postimg.cc/xqbV61Xw/Screenshot-2020-09-29-at-22-30-34.png) (https://postimg.cc/xqbV61Xw)
I deleted the trace connecting R23-R24 and the one arriving to R23 from the jumper. There i would make a hole and have 2 cables (red lines) starting from there (or 2 holes in sequence), one going to the switch (green) and then to R23 and the other going to the switch and then to R24. Is it totally wrong?
Also a comment from the author talked about rotating 180 degrees the regulator... Looking at the flat face of the component, the left leg should be IN, so i guess in the draw it's wrong (the 9V goes into the thirs leg), Right?

@Bluebunny: i have no vero board and this circuit has to fit a 1590B...

Sure, I can send you my psd file. I just have to find it lol. I'm about to format my pc to swap in a new ssd, so my files are all in "backup (n)" or "new folder (n)" folders lol. PM me your e-mail and I'll send it as soon as possible.

For the pots. That's something more I should add to the pdf, because it's kinda intuictive to some people but not to everybody. Hold the pot as if you're looking to it's "face", with the pins facing down. From left to right, I name them pin 1, 2 and 3. So, for example, G1 is pin 1 of the gain pot. One of the tone pins is indeed disconected, and the output is on V2 (volume pot pin 2 - and another info it's nice to add).

Let me take the opportunity to ask: could anybody point me to a correct schematic of the Dimension P, and maybe a soundclip? I've heard of it before, but I can't really remember how it sounds and I don't have any files for it on my pc.

Thanks Marcos, i send you a pm right now.
About the wiring, if i understood correctly the V2 goes to the out (makes sense as there is no out hole, i should have thought about it), but what about the Tone 3? is it connected to the 2 (i saw it sometimes...)?

for the dimension P you can find schematics and audio here:http://distorqueaudio.com/hardware/projects/dimension-p.html (i hope it doesn't go against any forum rule to post this)

QuoteI just have no clue what's a CLR and why the LDR have different sizes.

CLR means "Current Limiting Resistor", basically, you  tweak it until your LED lights up nicely and doesn't burn out. (Buy lots of extra LEDs, btw. They burn out quicker than expected!)

LDRs are Light Dependent resistors, so that means that their resistance changes according to the light shining on it. Brighter light? less resistance. Darkness? More resistance.

(https://i.postimg.cc/8sB2g43L/Screen-Shot-2020-09-30-at-9-32-40-AM.png) (https://postimages.org/)
It should end up looking a bit like that ^^^

The pots that they expect you to use are like these:
(https://i.postimg.cc/BtszpD6b/Screen-Shot-2020-09-30-at-9-35-06-AM.png) (https://postimages.org/)
They are soldered directly to the board. But of course, you can use normal pots and use wires. Note that the "rate" pot is double-ganged...

(https://i.postimg.cc/HVN3q7pQ/Screen-Shot-2020-09-30-at-9-37-46-AM.png) (https://postimages.org/)

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 29, 2020, 05:58:38 PM
About the wiring, if i understood correctly the V2 goes to the out (makes sense as there is no out hole, i should have thought about it), but what about the Tone 3? is it connected to the 2 (i saw it sometimes...)?

You can connect T3 to T2, but I just lect it disconnected. It works anyway.

@11-90-an: thanks a lot. I will buy lots of LEDs then. I read the LDRs are more sensitive to green. And i just did't get why "the right angle pots", aren't them all soldered on the board? :/ doesn't matter :D

@Marcos-Munky: thanks, i will leave it disconnected then

QuoteI read the LDRs are more sensitive to green

Best thing to do is buy a bunch of different colors and try them out to find the color that works the best with your LDRs.

Hi guys. I am ordering the components and i have some doubts. I checked online but found nothing:
1- Is 1kV a problem in for a 470pF capacitors? I guess it's waaay too much, but does it have any influence in the end?
2- instead of a LM7805 shall i go for a 7805CKC or a L78L05? Or shalli buy LM7805CT from mouser?
3- Instead of a JRC4558 shall i go for a RC4558P or a TL072?
4- I found 2 LDR, one is 16k-50k 2M, the other 30k-90k 5M. Which shall i buy?
5- I can't find a CLR, do they have other names? I can't find them on the website i buy from. I saw something on mouser but it costs 50$... i Hope it's not that :D

Thank you

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 30, 2020, 09:48:23 AM
1- Is 1kV a problem in for a 470pF capacitors? I guess it's waaay too much, but does it have any influence in the end?
2- instead of a LM7805 shall i go for a 7805CKC or a L78L05? Or shalli buy LM7805CT from mouser?
3- Instead of a JRC4558 shall i go for a RC4558P or a TL072?
4- I found 2 LDR, one is 16k-50k 2M, the other 30k-90k 5M. Which shall i buy?
5- I can't find a CLR, do they have other names? I can't find them on the website i buy from. I saw something on mouser but it costs 50$... i Hope it's not that :D

1 - No.  If it's all you've got, then use it.  It may be physically bigger than you'd prefer, but otherwise "the same".  (Note: if it's somewhere that tolerances are important, you might need to ask again...)
2 - 7805s are 7805s.  Different manufacturers and possibly different packaging may cause extra letters to appear at either end.  On the other hand, 78L05s are 100mA versions and the pinout is reversed.  If you're powering a single PT2399 (as an example), the L version is sufficient.
3 - 4558 = 4558.  TL072 is another common dual opamp.  In most cases, you can substitute one for the other.
4 - Depends on your circuit.  Get one of each and audition them?
5 - "CLR" describes usage.  It's just a regular resistor.  Depending on how much retina-burn you enjoy, it might be a value somewhere between 1K and 47K (or beyond!).  Use a spare trimmer or pot to find out what value suits you (but don't start at zero!).

Thanks bluebunny, i answer you per points:

1) I could find it on mouser but i prefer to buy everything from the same seller. I need only 1 for the depths pedal and the normal ones are out of stock atm. I will just buy a pair of 1kv
2) That's good to know. There is always so many letter after the "name"... it's confusing. I need one for the dimension P and it's marked as 7805 not 78L05 but i guess it's for the 2399. Can i go with the L version then?
3) Then i will buy a RC4558P (i don't know what the difference without the J at the beginning) just to test it. I have other 072 in case...
4) I need 4 for the Depths and 1 for the Shoot the moon. I just don't want to make some damage or buy something useless, but i guess they really work in conjunction with the LED and the resistor before it, am i right? So i have to buy several ones 'cause they will behave differently 
5) I am a bit confused... On the Depths layout it says "CLR 1k-20k". Does it mean that I have to check what works better between 1 and 20k? How can i know?  :icon_eek:  you mean something like this? I hope i won't make everyone laugh :D
(https://i.postimg.cc/V50ZJ7Sc/IMG-2569.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V50ZJ7Sc)

CLR means control led resistor, or at least I think this is the meaning :icon_lol:. It's a resistor to control how bright the indicator led will be. Bigger values means less bright. Some people uses something between 2k7 and 4k7 for diffused leds and bigger values like 10k for those clear plastic leds. I just use 4k7 for everything.

I woudn't bother too much on them. Just use any value from this range you have on hand, but keep in mind super bright leds will be too bright on low values.

For the ceramic cap, 1kV is oversized (not exactly speaking of the size of the cap, but it is indeed a bit bigger), but will work.

For the ldrs... well, I'd get the 2M ones. But they may sound different. On the other hand, I don't really try different ldrs, I have a bunch of them and I just use what I have on hand. For some circuits, the ldr specs really matters, but maybe I got lucky and got correct (or nearly correct) ones at random :icon_mrgreen:

Now it's clear! :)
I will just use a 4.7k. For the on/off LED i used them and it's pretty much the brightness of a bright LED on some pedal. Enough to not let you see what's written on the pedal haha i hate that. I think now on i will try with 10k or more for the on/off LED. I have been tricked by the first i used: a yellow LED that was PERFECT. Then i used pink and white ones and they are quite bright.

For the LDRs i will buy 4x of 3 kinds (5k-10k, 0,2M / 30k-90k, 5M / 50k-160k, 20M) and see what happens. I mean, they are not so expensive :D

thanks guys, I think i am ready to buy the components now ❤️

According to the datasheet, the supply current for a single PT2399 is typically 15mA, maximum 30mA.  So the 78L05 should be OK.

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 30, 2020, 11:40:59 AM
5) I am a bit confused... On the Depths layout it says "CLR 1k-20k". Does it mean that I have to check what works better between 1 and 20k? How can i know?  :icon_eek:  you mean something like this? I hope i won't make everyone laugh :D
(https://i.postimg.cc/V50ZJ7Sc/IMG-2569.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V50ZJ7Sc)

That's about it...  :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
just make sure you don't turn the pot all the way counter-clockwise... :icon_eek:

QuoteCLR means control led resistor, or at least I think this is the meaning :icon_lol:. It's a resistor to control how bright the indicator led will be. Bigger values means less bright.

+1 what Marcos said
As far as I know it was Current Limiting Resistor... but in this application I like this name... ;)

Quote from: 11-90-an on September 30, 2020, 07:56:38 PM
Current Limiting Resistor

That's it! :icon_lol: I coudn't remember the correct name.

Quote
just make sure you don't turn the pot all the way counter-clockwise... :icon_eek:

Check. Did it. Burned it. I mean, how many probabilities there were of me building this and not doing it? 😁 but it lasted a bit before dying.

I also made some test with other resistors: I found out that, for a white led of the ones I have, the  value of the resistor to have an acceptable brightness without being annoying bright is 100k. I should do the same experiment with all my LEDs so I could make a list of resistors based on the color...

Quote from: ghiekorg on September 30, 2020, 10:28:09 PM

Quote
just make sure you don't turn the pot all the way counter-clockwise... :icon_eek:

Check. Did it. Burned it.

The picture you posted doesn't give you the answer you need.  Put the pot (or trimmer) in series with the LED.  Also put a 1K resistor in series too - this will avoid burn-up!  (Do this on a breadboard, btw.)  Adjust the trimmer until the LED looks nice.  Now remove the trimmer and measure it.  Add this to the 1K: this is your CLR value.

the test i did yesterday after burning the led was just: 9v battery, black wire to led's -, red wire to resistor, resistor to led's +. Then everytime i just soldered a new resistor till 100k. Today i will try something different: I use a pot and a resistor as you said and i will stick the pot to a  piece of paper where i can mark the resistences.  I also wanna do it to test all the colors i have and at which resistance they are bright or dim.

As soon as i get my stuff (i have no B pots atm) i will test everything. Is this connection correct?
Lug1 to LED - and 9v -
Lug2 to resistor and then LED +
Lug 3 to 9v+

Thanks

QuoteLug1 to LED - and 9v -

Unless you're using a +/-9v bipolar supply... just call it "ground", "GND", or 0v.  :icon_wink:

The rest seems good to me... :icon_biggrin:

I don't know 1 2 or 3, so what I'd do is - connect the pot wiper to the pot CCW lug [rheostat connection - a variable resistance]. connect CCW lug to ground. connect CW lug to 1k resistor. connect free end of resistor to K Cathode of led [it has no positive and no negative, only Anode and Cathode, which is drawn as a K ]. connect Anode of led to battery +. then, as you rotate the pot clockwise, the series resistance reduces until the minimum of the 1k [called a stop resistor], the series current through the whole string increases, and the led brightness increases as a result.

1 2 3 seemed a bit easier to me :D

here are the 2 "versions"
I don't have a pot to try it out. They seem quite different though...
(https://i.postimg.cc/p9RN4yPd/AF26668-F-60-B4-4857-BD92-B4-D0483-CEE9-B-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p9RN4yPd)

Hi guys, today i wanna etch the boards. I will try the acetone-only method :)

I just have a question about the dimension P
Can you help me with the mod? As i see from the schematic there is a ON/OFF before R24 an one before R23:
(https://i.postimg.cc/phK0DM9n/IMG-1159.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/phK0DM9n)

Is my layout mod correct? red is deleted and yellow is added (also i rotated the regulator on the left)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZvZwHs3s/IMG-1160.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvZwHs3s)

Thank you ❤️

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 02, 2020, 03:58:28 AM
(https://i.postimg.cc/p9RN4yPd/AF26668-F-60-B4-4857-BD92-B4-D0483-CEE9-B-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p9RN4yPd)

Both will do, but the one on the left is for good practice... :icon_mrgreen:

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 02, 2020, 05:34:17 AM
Is my layout mod correct? red is deleted and yellow is added (also i rotated the regulator on the left)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZvZwHs3s/IMG-1160.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvZwHs3s)

Yessir. That's correct too.  :icon_biggrin:

Once I order my pots and switches, i must get on to building this pedal...

thank you 11-90-an
here is the modified layout., in case someone needs it just send me a PM :) probably the 2 resistors will have to placed almost vertically...
(https://i.postimg.cc/Tyn7b5Hc/Screenshot-2020-10-02-at-12-28-51.png) (https://postimg.cc/Tyn7b5Hc)

Hi everyone,
the stuff from mouser (the boxes and some resistors) arrived today (for the rest i will have to wait another week i guess) and, again, i ordered a wrong pot :D i bought a 24mm one. Luckily i have a B25K from the last order. I need 2x B10k for the little jim pedal (gain and tone). I will receive 1x B10K but then i have to use the B25K for the other control. Which is better for 25k? Tone or Gain? Thanks :)

what pedal needs that b25k? i'm assuming the depths? I don't see any 25k pot in the little jim... or amI misunderstanding?  :icon_rolleyes:

I don't think the 24mm pot will really matter as long as it's not in a 1590a... is it?

that's exactly the point. it's a 1590a and needs 2x b10k. but i have 1x b10k,  1x b25k and this huge b10k. so i want to use one 10 and one 25k but i don't know where it is better, if tone or gain. does it make a huge difference? i guess if i use a 25k then i will have the same effect as a 10k when reaching almost half turn (as being linear half turn is 12.5k). i just don't know what happens after  :D

I think you'll have a wider range of tone settings if you use it as the tone pot. I'm not saying it'll be useful along all the rotation :icon_lol: but it should be better than using this pot as the gain one.

oh ok... I thought the 24mm pot was the B25k one... haha  :icon_lol:

+1 on what Marcos said... i think more than half of the pot turn will be quite useless, so perhaps tacking a 22k resistor across both outside lugs can change the values a bit.

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 05, 2020, 12:12:17 PM...a wrong pot :D i bought a 24mm...

24mm is the physical size, the diameter. About the diameter of a US 25 cent coin.... actually, the width of a carpenter's thumb. This comes to English as "inch" and I happen to recall that in France they say 25.4 millimeters, so 24mm is a shy inch.

The resistor inside could be about anything. There may be numbers on it. You should always check with your multimeter.

Thank you guys for your help

Quote from: 11-90-an on October 05, 2020, 09:54:16 PM
+1 on what Marcos said... i think more than half of the pot turn will be quite useless, so perhaps tacking a 22k resistor across both outside lugs can change the values a bit.

So you mean a 22k connected on one side to lug 1and on the other side to lug 3? Just to be sure i understood correctly.

Quote from: PRR on October 05, 2020, 11:40:59 PM

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 05, 2020, 12:12:17 PM...a wrong pot :D i bought a 24mm...

24mm is the physical size, the diameter. About the diameter of a US 25 cent coin.... actually, the width of a carpenter's thumb. This comes to English as "inch" and I happen to recall that in France they say 25.4 millimeters, so 24mm is a shy inch.

Yes 24mm the physical size. I bought 1x B10k normal size (16mm?) size from a shop and, as it was the last, i had to buy another from mouser but every times i buy there i buy something wrong (in this case a 24mm diameter B10k) :D So, as i have a small B25k from a past project, i decided to use it instead of searching for another B10k normal size.
And yes, also here 1 inch is 2,54cm :D (written with "," and not "." as here using the dot is considered sometimes a mistake and (sometimes) it's used for thousands (ex. 1.500.000 €) 8)

QuoteSo you mean a 22k connected on one side to lug 1and on the other side to lug 3? Just to be sure i understood correctly.

yes... :icon_cool:

hi guys, i am preparing the shoot the moon as finally the components arrived...
I just can't understand how to wire the LED to make it show status AND rate. On Effects layout it says "D1 is the external rate indicator and could be used as the on/off indicator as well. Just use part one pole of your 3PDT to break/connect one of the leads of D1" which i don't understand (probably my lack of english knowledge, but what does "part one pole" mean?).
Can you please give a hand so i can close it? The rest seems to work (i will post later...)
My 3pdt is wired like that. I just didn't connect the lug 4, the one that in this pic is going to the - of the LED
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W-Qb4sAO4Tk/ViUQQsZEsOI/AAAAAAAAGaI/NsdlAc49bls/s640/Off%2BBoard%2BWiring.png

thank you

here is the original layout  http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A3s2_q36mQE/WsJLLFykqCI/AAAAAAAAF-c/Oyw9RVSuXmUSvob3UEKRXWEqsxMoDFtgACK4BGAYYCw/s1600/CulterJam%2BShoot%2Bthe%2BMoon.png

From what I can see, one LED for rate, one LED for switching. So, if your pedal turns out fine, even when you click the footswitch in "off" the rate LED will just continue blinking.

If you wire the rate indicator led to the board, it will blink based on the tremolo lfo even when it's bypassed.

To use it also as a effect indicator led, so it turns off when you bypass the tremolo, it´s pretty simple. Connect one lead of the lead to the board, any one you want. Instead of the other lead, connect a piece of wire to the board, and also connect a piece of wire to the remaining led. So now you have two pieces of wire. If you connect them, the led will blink. If you disconnect them, the led won't blink. That's what it means with "break the connection".

The way I described above can't be done using this 3pdt wiring. I mean, it can be done, but you'll have to do the wiring in a different - and still easy - way. This wiring have the CRL between V+ and the positive lead of the led, and it breaks the connection between the negative side and ground. The Shoot The Moon have the positive lead connected to the LFO - which acts as a variable voltage source, but have the CLR between the negative lead and ground - if you follow the negative lead, you'll see there's a 1K resistor between the lead and the ground trace, it's the resistor right next to the 4558.

To use the wiring layout you're using, you'll have to break the connection between the led and ground, but need to keep this resistor. So remove the solder from the bottom leg of the resistor and fully remove this lead from the hole so you don't have any possible contact with ground. Solder a piece of wire to it, this wire will act as the green wire connected to the led in the wiring layout you're using.

@11-90-an: that's what i wanted to avoid, i don't like blinking leds all the time  :D it's ok when the pedal is on but it would drive me crazy otherwise :D

@marcos: Thank you very much! It was a simple solution, i should have thought about it but i was keeping on thinking about the LED leads. I learned something new :)  i owe you two, now.

(https://i.postimg.cc/LYvjZgKk/6-DCF3647-86-EF-4296-9-DA6-9-D5-E0-E9-EDFFD-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYvjZgKk)

Here is a clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwTDjb1lO6k&ab_channel=ghiekorg
Yeah this time the graphics are not so nice. I had problems with the decal/paint so and i decided to just go with stickers+marker...

Nice build. Now you have one the best tremolos. I saw you didn't added the ramp up/down mod, but it was just to add more versatility to this already awesome tremolo. To tell the truth, while I did this mod to my StM and to another one I'm finishing to give to a friend, I don't use the extra modes at all.

Thank you :) I love it already.
i completely forgot about the mod... totally. But i am not a huge fan of saw waves in tremolo. Actually i think i will leave mine on 100%sine all the time (even though, to my ears, the sine sound a bit sawtoothy, but maybe i have to listen to it better. I finished it at night so i couldn't really test it yet with a decent volume...
Thank again man

A couple of comments about it. It all went smooth but i had 3 big problems:
- LED wiring
- the pulsing LED/LDR choice. I bought 3 different LDR  and just when i tested the pedal i found out 2 of them are unusable. They are so strong that the LED was doing almost nothing. I have some really bright white LEDs (i have to use a 50-100k resistor with them) but they didn't work. Maybe a voltage problem?
- a pop noise on switch. I just added a 100k (or 160k i can't remember) resistor between lug 7 and 5 of the 3pdt. Weird that a verified layout has this easy-to-fix problem.

Hi guys...
Today I wanted to finish the little Jim, but I have, again, problems 😔
First I lost 2 hours searching a for no sound at all then I realized it was the jack touching the case (I made the hole too low)
Now this: the pedal is quite noisy (ok, it's a distortion pedal) but it behaves weirdly. When I lower the gain è get a hiss/noise that disappears when I have high gain. Also in general it sounds really crunchy, it's not a smooth distortion... but maybe the pedal itself sounds like that.
I checked the gain pot (I though maybe at one extreme touches the case and makes this hiss from the ground, but I it's not and even if I move things it doesn't change...
Any idea?
Here is a clip. Thanks a lot as always
https://youtu.be/rh4R1r11Z7s

It should sounds kinda marshall-like.

That high pitch oscillation is usually related to wiring. High gain overdrives/distortions can be sensible to wiring. It's a nice idea to make the wires as short as possible.

Btw, I didn't boxed mine yet. Planning on doing it tomorrow, since I'll have a day off from work.

i prepared the case first so that i won't have long wires... Also in a 1590A the are pretty short i guess :D
Let me know if you have the same issue. 8)


In the meantime i prepared the Depths: it was a mess.
The "stamp" without heat was a total failure as the traces spread randomly creating a lot of shorts and i had to redraw half of them before etching. I was sure it wouldn't work. But it did!
The LDR/LED choice was also really annoying. The red one i used for the shoot the moon didn't really work nicely, same for the 0.2M LDR. In the end i went for green and 5M. This stuff about choosing what fits better is still a big question mark to me. It's complicated to understand how things workwith each other.
The casing/wiring was also a pain: i had shorts, low volumes, broken joints, non rotating knobs, pops, buzzes... everything you can imagine :D but slowly i managed to find the solution. Next time i have to remember to stay away from such packed layouts in small cases. I hate the boxing part... i always have so many problems with shorts. i had to put tape everywhere pretty much.
But what counts is the result, so here it is (i just have a problem with the voice knob: there is no effect when at the extremes, maybe the CLR?):

(https://i.postimg.cc/Lh7hMJyY/3-EA245-CC-3391-4-E17-BA7-B-A5-E1245739-AA-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lh7hMJyY)
probably i will delete the handwriting and will buy a sticky printable sheet. It sucks like that haha

here is a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMd_Vm0OZGQ&ab_channel=ghiekorg

So... another update:
I made the dimension P. All went smooth apart from soldering a pot the other way around and having a short when closing the case (you have to tell me how you do it because it happened to me almost every time 😕)

(https://i.postimg.cc/5Hj5Lxxh/C581-C253-C2-B7-4041-82-B8-46-C0-F9-E70109.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5Hj5Lxxh)

Clip: https://youtu.be/y6KCMq5VaPU


I also had a bit of time to test properly the little Jim and even though the hiss remains it's only present when the volume is on max, so perfectly usable.

https://youtu.be/KBFXTrBqwqs

Do I need another chorus? No. Am I interested on building the Dimension P after watching your demo? Yeah!

The soundclips I heard on the Dimension P sounded pretty meh to me. I really didn't got why people said this was a great chorus. Your demo give it a proper justice.

On Little Jim, the noise will probably be gone if you use shielded wires. But since you won't be using it at the settings the noise happens, just leave it as it is.

I didn't finished mine yet. Some things came in the way (again), I took some time to change the strings of my guitar and proper regulate it, then I did the tone transfer to etch the Little Jim enclosure and a board for something I'll build, but tested a different kind of paper. Didn't got to transfer the board, and the LJ enclosure didn't got a really good tone transfer, so I got some glitches on the image when I etched it. I'm waiting for the paint to dry to see how it goes anyway. Then I'll drill the enclosure and probably finish it tomorrow.

Oh thank you very much 😊 I just moved the knobs randomly haha but it's a really nice pedal. When I tried the first impression wasn't amazed. But then turning the knobs and playing with the switches you get so many sounds, crazy.

Let me see you LJ when you finish it. :-)  I had so many problems with decal and paint due to weather change and wind. I give up for now (also I finished the decals)

Sure, I'll post the results when I finish it. The etch didn't came as good as I want, but it's still usable. I did a 2nd hand of paint (nail polish, actually :icon_mrgreen:) and I'm waiting for it to dry so I can sand the excess.

I also had problems with the LJ's board. I left it too long in the chloride and the it deleted my marker and the traces under it so I had to make a bridge with a piece of lead to connect 4 components). Also the lines where kinda thin.

I couldn't find anymore the page where I got the stuff for the dimensionP. I was searching today while building it. But probably if you search dimension P  1590B you can find it somewhere. I will send you the link if I find it. Schematics and layout are here I think on the thread

Quotehaving a short when closing the case

some people cover the solder side of the board with some foam or anything that doesn't conduct electricity. A piece of cardboard can do fine.

I usually put tape everywhere. On pots, enclosure, caps, led, DC Plug... but when I close the enclosure, if the parts are too tight, they with make holes in the tape and short.


I just finished the rebote.

(https://i.postimg.cc/F7nbWVt8/6-CAA4-E75-F4-C8-45-E0-B773-CCE6727-E2-F2-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7nbWVt8)

It sound kinda ok, but the noise on repetition is really a lot to me:
https://youtu.be/vKEHUoJp21g
Is it normale to sound like that? I know 2399 are noisy but if that's the noise I guess I will just buy a commercial digital delay... (in reality is more noticeable than on the clip)
Thanks 😊

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 17, 2020, 06:34:35 AM
but when I close the enclosure, if the parts are too tight, they with make holes in the tape and short.

Trim your component leads closer to the board?  And don't use tape: it's too easy to poke something through.  There's still an abundance of clear plastic sheet used in all sorts of packaging which can be put to use here, rather than going to landfill.

Nothing goes to landfill with me :-D I didn't throw away any bag I received so far, they are always useful. But when I don't need glue it could be a good idea, thanks.
I cut every lead with the scissors of a Swiss knife so I can go as short as possible. I guess the problem is more the projects I did. 2x 1590A, a 1590B with 5 knobs board mounted, another 1590B with the board above the jacks (it's the part I hate the most, I will have a look around about other versions, the open ones are so problematic every time...). If Hammond would make these boxes just 3/4 mm thicker I would not have a problem. :-D

Buy some wire cutters that have been designed for the job.  :)

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 17, 2020, 06:34:35 AM
I just finished the rebote.

(https://i.postimg.cc/F7nbWVt8/6-CAA4-E75-F4-C8-45-E0-B773-CCE6727-E2-F2-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7nbWVt8)

It sound kinda ok, but the noise on repetition is really a lot to me:
https://youtu.be/vKEHUoJp21g
Is it normale to sound like that? I know 2399 are noisy but if that's the noise I guess I will just buy a commercial digital delay... (in reality is more noticeable than on the clip)

Surprising. I recently built a Deep Blue Delay on an Aion pcb that also supports the Rebote 2.5 (very similar circuit), and there is no noticeable noise, although I confess that I never did a careful listen before putting it on my pedalboard, and I keep the mix fairly subtle. But I would try to do a troubleshoot before giving up on that. Do you have another PT to try in there? There is supposedly quite a bit of variability between chips.

I tried 3 different 2399 but they all sound the same... I checked a bit on youtube and all the pt2399-based delays have noise, but mine seems a bit too much. As i understood there should be a filtering part in the circuit, maybe could be that? I am NOT advanced enough to understand that...
If you could test yours it would be good to do a comparison. :) Thanks

Edit: i meant to say i am not advanced enough, i forgot the "not"

hi everone. I am trying to measure the current draw of the pedals but i always get the same result, which is kinda crazy i guess. I made this tool:
(https://i.postimg.cc/gwD4S53d/B2096820-2823-442-C-BFC2-F5-DF4-D19-E96-A-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwD4S53d)
The green is the +, blue is the -.
To measure i set the multimeter on DC-Ampere and i touch the + contact on the female plug with the red tip while touching the wire coming from the male plug with the black. Every pedal i test is always 1.3 to 1.8. I even tried the Boss OC3, which should be around 45mA, and i still get 1.8. I remember doing this meauserment some days ago and all made sense. Could it be that my MM is gone or am i doing something wrong this time? thanks for your help

(https://i.postimg.cc/1fvqdQjv/059-DB0-DA-EE60-4-FAE-B497-B62-A4-BE67-AF0-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1fvqdQjv)

(https://i.postimg.cc/k2Ztny98/46-C9-A322-369-E-4167-BC7-E-E3-F068415-E12-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2Ztny98)

(https://i.postimg.cc/HrjyDNGd/BC14-F4-C6-C223-407-A-9-EAE-E3166718-C3-CA-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrjyDNGd)

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 18, 2020, 03:04:47 PM
hi everone. I am trying to measure the current draw ..................
To measure i set the multimeter on DC-Ampere ........

(https://i.postimg.cc/1fvqdQjv/059-DB0-DA-EE60-4-FAE-B497-B62-A4-BE67-AF0-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1fvqdQjv)

V for Volts, A for Amperes. you can't measure the current with the meter set to volts.


[edit :] ahh, well, while the above is true, in my defense, I couldn't discern the dot on the handle. excuse, please.

It is sent to Amps (there's a marking on this end of the pointer), but it's set at the 10A position.  However, the lead isn't plugged into the 10A socket.  So use the next setting along (200mA).

QuoteV for Volts, A for Amperes. you can't measure the current with the meter set to volts.

mmm i am on Ampere. The dot on the wheel is on 10A and the red tip is plugged in the VmAΩ (it says max 200mA) hole.  Maybe i didn't understand your message...

Quote from: bluebunny on October 19, 2020, 08:49:03 AM
It is sent to Amps (there's a marking on this end of the pointer), but it's set at the 10A position.  However, the lead isn't plugged into the 10A socket.  So use the next setting along (200mA).

Thank you bluebunny.
I tried to plug it in the 10A and also to use the 200mA but the result is always the same. Either 17 or 1.7 or 0.17... It just doesn't make sense. I know the OC3 consumes 50mA

Place Red probe to VmAΩ socket AND set pointer to 200mA scale..

Quote from: antonis on October 19, 2020, 09:00:58 AM
Place Red probe to VmAΩ socket AND set pointer to 200mA scale..

I am quite sure i tried that too  :icon_mrgreen: . I tried every position of Ampere and it is always either 0.17 or 1.7 or 17. Or a value similar to it. as soon as i am home (2-3h) i will record and post a clip

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 19, 2020, 09:18:08 AM

Quote from: antonis on October 19, 2020, 09:00:58 AM
Place Red probe to VmAΩ socket AND set pointer to 200mA scale..

I am quite sure i tried that too  :icon_mrgreen: . I tried every position of Ampere and it is always either 0.17 or 1.7 or 17. Or a value similar to it. as soon as i am home (2-3h) i will record and post a clip

Might there be a chance the internal battery of the MM is drained?

i thought that too. I opened the MM and did the tongue-test on it and it was definitely charged enough. I can't really understand... i will check the  fuses, but i guess it wouldn't even work if they are burned.

You could always measure the voltage drop across a known resistor which is in series with your power.  Then use Ohms law to work out the current through it.

here is a test again, with 200mA etc. Still same results.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3ydJRP1x/IMG-2767.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3ydJRP1x)

Also i noticed people's pedals go on when they do this measurement. Mine do not.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cvTBZ8kN/Screenshot-2020-10-19-at-18-50-35.png) (https://postimg.cc/cvTBZ8kN)

QuoteYou could always measure the voltage drop across a known resistor which is in series with your power.  Then use Ohms law to work out the current through it.

I don't know how to do  it, but i tried. And here are the results:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SnXc0t9c/A9914-FD7-A89-C-40-EF-9890-12-C470-C8-C5-AC-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SnXc0t9c)

I don't understand :(

No...

Set meter to DC VOLTAGE and measure voltage drop across the known value resistor..   :icon_wink:

e.g. for a 1V drop across 1k resistor you have 1mA current flowing..

Sorry, I checked online but it's not really clear still. you mean like that?

(https://i.postimg.cc/rKWzTXmG/0-A313-FC0-8229-4372-9-BA2-4-BE10304-AAA6-1-105-c.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKWzTXmG)

Then i tried with a 1k resistor and i get 5.54V.
10k = 7.69V

:icon_question:

It doesn't seem linear

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 19, 2020, 01:47:12 PM
Then i tried with a 1k resistor and i get 5.54V.
10k = 7.69V
It doesn't seem linear

Of course it isn't 'cause with 7.69V drop circuit can't function properly.. :icon_wink:
(it's left ONLY 1.3V working voltage..)

You'll have to check it with a resistor of much lower value..
(100R or better 10R or best 1R - for 1R, voltage reading is directly proportional to Current consumption ..)

The smallest i have now is 100R, so I tested some pedals:

B3K: 1.28V (selfmade, commercial unit is around 20mA) tried again later: 1.49V
Tentacle: 0.21V (selfmade, commercial unit is about 2mA) later 0.24V
The depths: 1.39 (selfmade, commercial unit is about 50mA)
korg pitchblack mini:1.36V (commercial, should be 40mA)
MXR studio compressor: 5.35 (commercial, should be 20mA). The lights were weird.
boss geb7: 1.61V (cvommercial, should be 17mA)
boss oc3: i couldn't turn it on no matter what.
boss psm5: 1.30V (commercial, should be around 15mA)


For me still makes no sense. I don't see the proportions between the numbers if the formula is just I=V/R... 

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 19, 2020, 05:20:34 PM
The smallest i have now is 100R, so I tested some pedals:

B3K: 1.28V

For me still makes no sense. I don't see the proportions between the numbers if the formula is just I=V/R...

So plug the values in to I=V/R:  I = 1.28 / 100 = 0.0128A (or 12.8mA)

Yes yes that's clear :D
The problem is the results:
B3K: 12.8 mA against 20
Tentacle: 2.1 mA, It's ok.
The depths: 13.9mA Should be 3 times more
korg pitchblack mini: 13.6mA. Should be 3 times more
MXR studio compressor: 53.6 mA, should be 3 times less.
boss geb7: 16mA, it's ok
boss psm5: 13mA, it's ok.

Thing is: couple of weeks ago i tested the pedal with that  plug with open wire. And it seemed to work perfectly. I had all the results i expected. At the time i also recorded the bitar for 15mA and the Chasm reverb for 60mA. Now i can't understand why it doesn't freaking work anymore.

Edit: another detail: when i measure using the "special cable" and the MM set to 200mA i get always 1.7 or so but, when i switch the red/black tips, i get -2.4. Shouldn't i get just the same result but with a -in front?
Edit2: if i use the 10A to do the measurment the pedal does lights on, but the screen just says 00.1, even when the wheel is on 200mA

I would imagine manufacturers will over-state the current requirements to avoid complaints from customers when their power supplies wig out.  Think of these specified numbers as absolute maximums.  (This approach is commonplace in Eurorack land where current draw is typically higher and people buy power supplies to accommodate whatever it is they've bought - and may buy in the future.)  What you measure is what the pedals are drawing right now under your test conditions.

To be honest, current draw via series resistor voltage drop should be measured with appropriate voltage at circuit power supply terminal.. :icon_wink:
('cause many circuits don't function properly with a supply lower than the one designed for them..)

e.g. for a 30mA current draw and a 100R series test resistor, you'll have to power it with 12V..
(3V drop on test resistor and 9V remaining for proper circuit function..)

I CAN SEE THE DOT [now]! thanks for the larger pics. does that meter never display in the window the units being measured? that's got to make using it less conveinient easy.

Hi everyone,
I made some stuff:
1) i checked again all the pedals with a 33R and now the results make more sense (not all of them though):
Little Jim   2 mA
Tentacle   2 mA
Shoot the moon   12 mA
8-bitar   13 mA
Pitchblack mini   14 mA
The Depths   14 mA
PSM   14 mA
B3K   17 mA
Studio compres.   18 mA
GEB7   18 mA
Rebote   20 mA
Chasm   44 mA
Dimension P   51 mA
OC3   52 mA

2) i tried the pedals:
- the little jim is too noisy unfortunately. I love it, it's an amazing sounding pedal but even at the beginning of the chain is too noisy. I will try other builds and decide what to do  :icon_frown:
- the dimension P is amazing but is boosting my volume level when ON. If i then use the dry and voices switches it gets even louder. Do you know any way to have it to stay at unit (do you say like that?)? That would be REALLY helpful
- the rebote is noisy on repetitions but for now i will keep it. Then if i find a 1590A digital delay for few bucks i will get switch it, i guess there is no other solution.
- the shoot the moon is just amazing. Thank you for the advice. It's probably my fav pedal of all the ones i made (with the chasm reverb which is always on)
- The depths is also really nice. I still have to understand it completely because 5 knobs are a lot of combinations, but i love it too.

Thanks for your help guys. Again, without you i wouldn't have made it through. I love you all <3

Quote from: duck_arse on October 20, 2020, 09:51:47 AM
I CAN SEE THE DOT [now]! thanks for the larger pics. does that meter never display in the window the units being measured? that's got to make using it less conveinient easy.

No :( it's a cheap MM i bought some years ago. I went to check for another one but before spending 50-60$ on a new one i wanna be sure i actually need it

For the Little Jim, what kind of noise are you talking about? Mine is "noisy", but just similar to other ods/distortions with that amount of gain. Maybe shielded wire can help you to tame the noise.

Quote- the dimension P is amazing but is boosting my volume level when ON. If i then use the dry and voices switches it gets even louder. Do you know any way to have it to stay at unit (do you say like that?)? That would be REALLY helpful

"Stay at unity", but I guess you just got a typo.. :icon_wink:

Here's the schem for reference:

(https://i.postimg.cc/Lhh6dCYS/Dimention-P-schematic.png) (https://postimg.cc/Lhh6dCYS)

I'm guessing increasing R8, R23, R24 value to say, 68k or more will work...

Quote from: Marcos - Munky on October 21, 2020, 08:36:28 PM
For the Little Jim, what kind of noise are you talking about? Mine is "noisy", but just similar to other ods/distortions with that amount of gain. Maybe shielded wire can help you to tame the noise.

I will post a clip of what i mean. I think there is not an easy solution for this...

Quote from: 11-90-an on October 21, 2020, 09:24:09 PM
I'm guessing increasing R8, R23, R24 value to say, 68k or more will work...

Thank you. You think there a way to know it will not be too quite (or still too loud) without a try&error method?

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 22, 2020, 06:32:25 AM
Thank you. You think there a way to know it will not be too quite (or still too loud) without a try&error method?

Sadly, I think not...  :-\

what if i just add an A100k pot and i connect the CCW lug to ground, the CW to board-output and the middle to jack 3pdt-output? I could use a small pot on the side of the pedal or just use it as in internal trimmer, i set it properly and i leave it inside the enclosure

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 22, 2020, 07:46:08 AM
what if i just add an A100k pot and i connect the CCW lug to ground, the CW to board-output and the middle to jack 3pdt-output? I could use a small pot on the side of the pedal or just use it as in internal trimmer, i set it properly and i leave it inside the enclosure

Yep this is a better idea. However, since you said the volume increases/decrease with different switching combinations, I'm thinking an external and proper pot
If you do this, I'm thinking you pull out R9 since it would mess with the taper and total resistance of the pot.

Isn't the R9 a pulldown resistor to avoid pops? Maybe it's a stupid question but i am starting to try to understand the various parts :D

R9 does pulldown, yes. take that out and fit a 100k pot - the pot will pulldown just the same. well, only now you can tap-off the volume level from that pullldown. a resistor is a resistor.

And form a variable cut-off frequency HPF with C12 ..
(Volume set dependent..)

so... i added a 100k pot between out and 3pdt 7th lug. It worked fine. Then as EVERY freaking time, when i closed the pedal one switch was not working anymore. couldn't find a solution. Then out of the blue without any reason it started to work again.
question is: As i just read your messages, is it really necessary to remove R9? What would be the difference? i am just scare to touch it again :(

ok, i changed my mind. I wanna learn so i will do it no mater what

In a real world pedal, R9 is unnecessary..
(but for an effective simulation, some kind of load in needed..)

As Stephen said, it can be readily replaced by a 100k Volume/Level pot, also acting as pull-down resistor..

Everything good :D i think the R9 was taking off a bit of volume (was it or it's just my impression?) so removing it made it louder and made the volume knob even more meaningful.
Thank you guys :)

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 22, 2020, 03:36:15 PM
i think the R9 was taking off a bit of volume (was it or it's just my impression?) so removing it made it louder and made the volume knob even more meaningful.

It effectivelly made pot value 50k (set in parallel with it) and altered pot's taper (law)..

QuoteIt effectivelly made pot value 50k (set in parallel with it) and altered pot's taper (law)..

Ahhh now that you tell me so it made realize they were in parallel. I was just thinking "i wil just put it after the board, so it will be in series" (like everything that comes before the wire is another circuit) without thinking that the output wire is actually connected to a resistor, so adding a pot makes it in parallel and not in series.
Thank you

Hi again guys...
I just made a DOD fx91 overdrive :D (this thread title has no sense anymore) but there is still a pop when i turn it on. If i understood correctly the connection between lug 1 and 6 of the 3pdt should avoid that. It's not super loud but it's there. What could it be? I wired everything like i always do... (apart from connecting the 2 jacks ground instead of using the enclosure as bridge because it is painted also inside)
Layout and schematics are here https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2019/09/dod-fx91-bass-overdrive.html
Thank you guys

As far as I can see, IN & OUT are grounded via 1M pull-down resistor and Level pot respectively..

You might need an LED anti-pop configuration, like the one below..

(https://i.imgur.com/tMUVYBe.png)

QuoteI just made a DOD fx91 overdrive :D (this thread title has no sense anymore)

Not quite a beginner, another 4+1, 2, 3, 4... pedals  :icon_lol:

As for the problem, do what antonis suggested.

Thank you Antonis. Next time i will have to solder something i wil give it a try. Can i ask why do you think this happens? I mean, it has to do with the input because when i have the pedal engaged every pedal before it pops if i turn it on, while this doesn't happen with the ones after it. I also don't get why the lug 3 of the driver pot goes nowhere (if you look at the layout the hole is not connected to anything)

@11-90-an: hahah yeah. It seems yesteraday i etched my first PCB and now i don't have space on my pedalboard nor on my desk. I have pedals everywhere literally.

As far as I read from other people, the LED's have a chance to make some sort of pop when turned on, (or something about voltage and stuff...) but I really don't know... :icon_redface: :P

Referring to schem:

http://www.sugardas.lt/~igoramps/article16/fx91.gif

The Drive pot is wired as a variable resistor... if your were to measure the resistance with your multimeter connected to lugs 1 and 2, it goes from 0 ohms to 100k (more or less, there are some tolerances) when you turn it...

Either when lug 2 and 3 are connected or when they aren't there really isn't much of a change in anything. Another example of "good practice", I guess...

not connecting them was probably for layout convenience...  :icon_lol:

HI guys :)
this morning i decided i wasn't happy with the rebote so i decide to make another 1590A delay and i made the Dirty Punk Repeater  (https://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2014/11/dirty-punk-repeater-delay.html)
It works, the repetitions are way cleaner then the rebote's but i have a big volume loss when it turn it on. I used everything as layered out, i just changed the Q2 (BC459b) for a 2N5089 and i used 2 resistors (1M+330k) instead of the 250k i didn't have. Is there some resistor i can change in order to have a proper volume?

I will try now the FX91 anti-pop. I tried to just cut the LED from the 3pdt but wasn't enough.
Nothing, the antipop wiring didn't solve the pop problem. I really see the LED go bright and dim when i turn it on, but i tried to disconnect it also from the 9v side  but the pop is still there. At least opening it made me notice i had place the 33uf in the wrong direction. It's getting frustrating again... i have no clue now how to fix this

here is another problem occuring using the Punk Repeater: The time knob does a kinda weep sound

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UI5qxT5BFUo&ab_channel=ghiekorg

now I know you are all over this, but I'll ask anyway. what is the difference between a BC549 and a 2N5089 [that might affect your output level] ?

I don't have a BC549 to test, but looking at the schematic the first thing I thought about was this transistor.  I tried: 2N5088, 2N5089 (who  ci should have more gain), MPSA18, 2N3904. Maybe even something else, but I can't remember. They didn't make any difference in the output level :/

Quotei just changed the Q2 (BC459b)

I took this as a misstype. did you mean BC54xb? [sorry, it's not worth my time messing with my faulty "nine" key/s]. check your datasheet for pinout comparison!

The pinouts for the 2N5089 and BC549 are reversed. Did you rotated the transistor 180º before soldering it?

For the delay, here your video have no sound. Don't know if it's an issue on my end. But if it's a weep sound that changes the pitch of the delay whey you rotate the pot while it's still playing a note, that's something that happens with all delays.

Just a suggestion. Your topic started as a "looking for 4 pedal suggestions", which was achieved. Then you used the same topic to ask for help with two more builds, but some people who can help you may not see your questions because they saw this topic earlier and think "well, he already picked the 4 pedals, so the new posts are just build reports or something like that". It's better to create one topic per build, so things keep organized and you get more visibility.

There was no sound in the delay video because he was trying to let us hear the weep sound... :icon_lol:

Quote from: duck_arse on October 26, 2020, 09:11:59 AM

Quotei just changed the Q2 (BC459b)

I took this as a misstype. did you mean BC54xb? [sorry, it's not worth my time messing with my faulty "nine" key/s]. check your datasheet for pinout comparison!

Yes, sorry, i typed wrong. I meant BC549b. I know they are "flipped" compared to the others i used, so i double checked the direction before placing them. On Effectslayout website there is actually a comment about that: the Letters are right but the orientation is wrong on the drawing. 

QuoteThe pinouts for the 2N5089 and BC549 are reversed. Did you rotated the transistor 180º before soldering it?

Yes, i always use sockets for ICs, regulators, JFETs, etc. so in case it's easy to test. And they don't like heat that much as i understood

QuoteFor the delay, here your video have no sound. Don't know if it's an issue on my end. But if it's a weep sound that changes the pitch of the delay whey you rotate the pot while it's still playing a note, that's something that happens with all delays.

No no, i intentionally left the volume of the guitar off just so you can hear the weep (sweep?) sound. Maybe you have to turn up the volume, it's not super loud :D

QuoteJust a suggestion. Your topic started as a "looking for 4 pedal suggestions", which was achieved. Then you used the same topic to ask for help with two more builds, but some people who can help you may not see your questions because they saw this topic earlier and think "well, he already picked the 4 pedals, so the new posts are just build reports or something like that". It's better to create one topic per build, so things keep organised and you get more visibility.

That's absolutely true. I thought about it, i just didn't want to invade the forum with my threads... but i guess you are right. These things now have almost nothing to do with the old stuff.

Quote from: 11-90-an on October 26, 2020, 09:24:14 AM
There was no sound in the delay video because he was trying to let us hear the weep sound... :icon_lol:

Exactly :D

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 26, 2020, 09:30:28 AM
Yes, i always use sockets for ICs, regulators, JFETs, etc. so in case it's easy to test. And they don't like heat that much as i understood

Nah. They don't like too much heat but, unless you're very bad at soldering, you're good to go on almost all of them. What you can do if you're worried is to do a finger temperature test. Put a finger on then, solder one leg. Is the part still cool? Then solder another leg. Did it got a bit hot? Then just move to another part and come back to finish this one later.

While lots of people says to always use sockets, lots of people are against them. On one hand, they make the part easy to remove, in case you want to test a different one instead, or even your build got wrong and you want to savage that part. On the other hand, the mechanical connection for parts in sockets isn't nearly as reliable as if they're soldered directly. I mean, I didn't got any IC to fall from a socket, but that's what people argue about, the mechanical connection is not too reliable.

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 26, 2020, 09:30:28 AM
No no, i intentionally left the volume of the guitar off just so you can hear the weep (sweep?) sound. Maybe you have to turn up the volume, it's not super loud :D

Ah got it! I was expecting something different. But now I can hear it. It seems the same as I described (pitch changing if you play a note then rotate the pot), but instead of playing a note you're getting an oscillation into your signal, and that oscillation is changing pitch based on the pot rotation. Is it audible with pedal bypassed?

Quote from: ghiekorg on October 26, 2020, 09:30:28 AM
That's absolutely true. I thought about it, i just didn't want to invade the forum with my threads... but i guess you are right. These things now have almost nothing to do with the old stuff.

It's better to create new threads for each stuff. You get more visibility this way. And if you have 2 or 3 builds you're debugging at the same time, don't worry on "I'm creating too many threads", just go and create one per build. This way, you get everything related to each build in it's own thread. It's more organized and easier to go along this way. Ald if somebody face the same problems when they build the same effect, they can use your thread to help their debug process.

Hi guys
I just want to close this thread showing all i did so far, my (for the moment) final pedalboard but mainly thanking you for your help, once again i wouldn't have made it till here without you. After 15 years of music without any pedal i fell in love with them and i have no idea how i made it till now without them :D
This led me to music i never played, i never heard and made me see music in a different way.
See you around on the forum, i guess it will not pass much time before i do another pedal  :icon_mrgreen:
Take care <3

(https://i.postimg.cc/5YrjXd4c/IMG-1199.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YrjXd4c)

Trust me, you'll be building another one sooner than you think :icon_lol:

where's the octap?  :icon_lol:

Quote from: Marcos - Munky on October 28, 2020, 07:58:45 PM
Trust me, you'll be building another one sooner than you think :icon_lol:

Yeah, well... i wanna change one of the pedals already :D

Quote from: 11-90-an on October 28, 2020, 08:18:08 PM
where's the octap?  :icon_lol:

I breadboarded it but it didn't work. It's also true i breadboarded 4 pedals and none of them worked. So i just probabily suck at it. The boosting section was really distorting the sound and there was no upper octave whatsoever. I will try to breadboard it again from scratch soonish. :D But thank you for remind me of it  :icon_mrgreen: