Hi All, I'm a complete beginner in DIY Pedals, I have received my projects for university and one of the options is build a piece of hardware such as a pedal.
I had the idea of building my ideal Octave Distortion unit.
I'm wanting to incorporate a Polyphonic Octave Down which would feed into the distortion section.
the distortion section being a Dallas Rangemaster Style Treble boost into a Pro Co Rat style distortion, similar to Fuzzlord Effects Nazareth.
the key differences between my idea and the Fuzzlord Effects Nazareth is that the Nazareth uses a Green Ringer Style Octave Up while I was thinking of using an Octave down more similar to a Digitech Drop.
I'm allowed to use kits as a basis for this project provided I modify them or Frankenstein them together to make something unique.
any kits you recommend?
how will I get everything to run off of a 9v isolation power supply?
any advice for a beginner in general?
Welcome!
The first problem you're going to hit is that word "Polyphonic"! Traditional analog octave-down effects won't do polyphonic signals. For that, you need digital processing, and pretty sophisticated digital processing at that (this is not a job for the FV-1, for example). The Boss OC-3 seems to be the box of the moment for that, but I wouldn't want to try and build one.
Your only other option if you're keeping it analog would be to make your own hexaphonic pick-up (so you have a separate signal from each string). Then you can process the six strings separately, including octave down. But this becomes a somewhat different project. Still fun, but different.
Aside from that it's all very doable. Running off 9V is what pedal circuits expect to do, so most things are set up for that already.
Hope this helps,
Tom
Welcome to the forum... :icon_biggrin:
For the most part, polyphonic octaving is hard to do with analog circuitry. The most it can do is track a single note (monophonic) and octave down that note. However, there are other options, all digital. I'm not sure but perhaps the FV-1 has an octave down patch?
if you wish to go with analog, you can try out Merlin's U-Boat (http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/uboat.html), Colorsound Octivider (https://youtu.be/22fmNvc9cxA), Shin Ei Octave Box (http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/2015/09/shin-ei-ob-28-octave-box.html), even the Boss OC-2
For the treble booster and rat it should be quite simple...
EDIT: whelp, Tom posted faster than me. Seems like FV-1 isn't cut out for this job...
the octave down is really hard to do analog
i was going to suggest the U-boat posted earlier, but i'm convinced that it can be done easier, somehow...
you could also include the MXR blue box's octave down, but only do one stage instead of two!
if you ring modulate the square wave octave down with the clean signal, you could end up with something similar to the u-boat! i don't know if that would be simpler tho.
cheers, Iain
We still have this one as an easier option
https://www.diystompboxes.com/analogalchemy/sch/shocktave.html
Quote from: GuyCorbin2001 on January 26, 2021, 05:14:29 AM
any advice for a beginner in general?
Yes. Start simple.
In that respect, it is hard to get much simpler than a Green Ringer, unless it is Gus Smalley's Octave-Up Sick Box - https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=69289.0 - or one of the various octave-up circuits from Tim Escobedo: http://www.jiggawoo.eclipse.co.uk/guitarhq/Circuitsnippets/snippets.html
The key element to keep in mind, in my own experience, is the sensitivity of the circuit, and match between what it is expecting, in order to do its job, and what the guitar signal path is providing. Both octave-up and octave-down, in the analog domain, rest very much on what might be called "triggering". So the input signal always needs to be above some minimum to make either type of circuit work well.
A second critical element is that both require an easily identifiable note fundamental, with most of the harmonic content removed. Normally, that involves using the neck pickup, rolling back the guitar tone control, and picking above the 7th or even 9th fret. Why the latter? Because the short the string length, the less the harmonic content.
Wow, thanks for all the super insightful and quick responses, I should mention that my deadline is the 27th of April 2021 so about 12 weeks.
Is the any way of incorporating DSPs into an otherwise analog circuit to achieve a fully polyphonic octave similar to a Micro Pog or an OC-5 that's feasible for someone just starting out, if not then I'll just have to settle for monophonic octave down circuitry.
Again if you have any kits that you recommend i would love to hear, also if you know of people that make custom enclosures for builds such as this that would also be super helpful.
I'm in the U.K. if that helps for what brands or companies you recommend.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mhLBRSGG/CA71568-F-0-EAC-425-B-AE14-DBB0-C893961-F.png) (https://postimg.cc/mhLBRSGG)
Here is the assessment brief description.
How comfortable are you with microcontrollers?
You should be able to score a Raspberry Pi Pico easily, and teach it to do something useful, like control patching or memorize mixer settings, etc.
I've never encountered them in terms of usage or building, I'm open to anything really.
Making a dirt pedal with an Octave Down element is just the first thing I had I mind since I want to replace what's currently on my board (a Micro POG into a BAT Coven.)
Could I possibly take an premade OC-5 or Digitech Drop and then just incorporate it into the by patching it into the Rangemaster -> Rat circuit?
Quote from: GuyCorbin2001 on January 26, 2021, 11:50:17 AM
Could I possibly take an premade OC-5 or Digitech Drop and then just incorporate it into the by patching it into the Rangemaster -> Rat circuit?
Yes. Probably second-hand ones... (for the price)
I am wondering why you say the FV-1 cannot do octave down. It does octave down via pitch shifting so it's polyphonic. Witness verily:
https://soundclick.com/r/s7roov
An easy build octave down that uses minimal components is the 8-Bitar design on the Parasit Studio website: https://www.parasitstudio.se/8bitar.html
However, as it produces a squarewave, having a distortion in front of it is sort of irrelevant except that the additional harmonics may interfere with triggering.
Quote from: Digital Larry on January 26, 2021, 09:02:05 PM
I am wondering why you say the FV-1 cannot do octave down. It does octave down via pitch shifting so it's polyphonic. Witness verily:
https://soundclick.com/r/s7roov
i thought the VF1 only does up to 8 semitones up or down (4 per channel, put in series), meaning you need 2 of them to reach an octave, which is still quite feasible tho.
cheers, Iain
As Mark already mentioned, Gus Smalley's Octave-Up Sick Box is just a splendorous simplicity.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: Digital Larry on January 26, 2021, 09:02:05 PM
I am wondering why you say the FV-1 cannot do octave down. It does octave down via pitch shifting so it's polyphonic. Witness verily:
https://soundclick.com/r/s7roov
I suppose because I find the artefacts unbearable beyond even a few semitones. I've mentally ruled it out.
So I take it back; it can do an octave down (or up, come to that). Taste varies and some people may find it acceptable for their purposes. In the context of the OP's original question, it might be quite suitable, since it *would* be entirely DIY and much more in the spirit of the project.
PS: That sound sample you posted doesn't sound half bad (that's high praise, considering how I feel about the FV1's pitch shift). The filter effect helps hide the worse of the warble and that weird plasticky quality that it gets.
Quote
PS: That sound sample you posted doesn't sound half bad (that's high praise, considering how I feel about the FV1's pitch shift). The filter effect helps hide the worse of the warble and that weird plasticky quality that it gets.
is there a pedal that just does that plasticky quality without the pitch shift?
for a song we recorded but never published, i put my pitch fork through a band mate's whammy, one oct up and one oct down, just to get that 'broken/fake' feel, that was the worst solo ever recorded tho, i used 100% WET reverb before a super fuzz and in to both the pitch shifters. i'd like to recreate that sound with less pedal board real-estate...
cheers, Iain
Quote from: ElectricDruid on January 27, 2021, 02:19:11 PM
PS: That sound sample you posted doesn't sound half bad (that's high praise, considering how I feel about the FV1's pitch shift). The filter effect helps hide the worse of the warble and that weird plasticky quality that it gets.
Well, I know what you mean, FV-1 pitch shift up is pretty bad. The sample I posted is (I think) dry with octave with and without filter. Don't exactly remember! I think for the purposes of the OPs project it's acceptable.
Quote from: iainpunk on January 27, 2021, 03:36:48 PM
.... that was the worst solo ever recorded tho,
That sounds like a challenge to me!
Quote from: iainpunk on January 27, 2021, 03:36:48 PM
is there a pedal that just does that plasticky quality without the pitch shift?
for a song we recorded but never published, i put my pitch fork through a band mate's whammy, one oct up and one oct down, just to get that 'broken/fake' feel, that was the worst solo ever recorded tho, i used 100% WET reverb before a super fuzz and in to both the pitch shifters. i'd like to recreate that sound with less pedal board real-estate...
That ought to be possible on an FV-1. You could use the left input/left out for one octave up, and the right side for one octave down, and then feed one into the other! Hey Presto! Hideously munged frankensignal bearing only a passing resemblance to a guitar!
Can one tell the two channels of an FV-1 to do something different from the other? I was unaware of this.
GuyCorbin2001; sorry for derailing the thread
totally forgot to mention its not a guitar solo, its on an electric kalimba!
Quote from: ElectricDruid on January 27, 2021, 05:50:16 PM
Quote from: iainpunk on January 27, 2021, 03:36:48 PM
is there a pedal that just does that plasticky quality without the pitch shift?
for a song we recorded but never published, i put my pitch fork through a band mate's whammy, one oct up and one oct down, just to get that 'broken/fake' feel, that was the worst solo ever recorded tho, i used 100% WET reverb before a super fuzz and in to both the pitch shifters. i'd like to recreate that sound with less pedal board real-estate...
That ought to be possible on an FV-1. You could use the left input/left out for one octave up, and the right side for one octave down, and then feed one into the other! Hey Presto! Hideously munged frankensignal bearing only a passing resemblance to a guitar!
i didn't know the VF-1 can do different things left and right?!?!
i just found a solution, the pitchfork has a thicc chorus setting, which is 17ct up or down, this is quite small, and with full wet mix, sounds quite fake/plastic.
still, i might want to get a VF-1 chip for that effect, since i don't want to change pedal settings during or between songs.
Quote from: Digital Larry on January 27, 2021, 05:31:14 PM
Quote from: iainpunk on January 27, 2021, 03:36:48 PM
.... that was the worst solo ever recorded tho,
That sounds like a challenge to me!
i'll ask my drummer if his brother (the studio's owner) still has those files, if not, i might re-record the 'solo' directly in to my laptop's mic input jack, its a cool noise-scape, a wash of distorted noise going up and down a double-harmonic minor scale in A.
cheers, Iain
Hi all, the octave effect I was looking for was just to be as realistic as possible and just as close to the original sound just an octave, preferably with polyphony potential.
Looking more and more likely that I'll just have to buy a Digitech Drop and then Frankenstein it into the Rangemaster -> Rat Circuit, that will also give me the variety of pitch shifting capabilities.
why do you want it to be realistic? have you heard how the ''octave'' sounds on its own in the original unit? absolutely not realistic. that's also not the point of the octave generation, its to create the texture its associated with, like an ampeg scrambler (the stoges - i wanne be your dog intro and solo), super fuzz (Electric Wizard and Mud Honey) or Rodger Mayer Octavia (made famous by Hendrix)
the octave down is maybe better used clean, Parallel mixed with the distortion, instead of having a distorted bass sound!
cheers, Iain
Quote from: Mark Hammer on January 27, 2021, 06:12:33 PM
Can one tell the two channels of an FV-1 to do something different from the other? I was unaware of this.
The FV-1 has two audio gozintaz. They are called ADCL and ADCR.
The FV-1 has two audio gozouttaz. They are called DACL and DACR.
These are treated exactly like the 32 internal registers of the FV-1 as far as reading, writing, and arithmetic.
C'est magnifique, non?
You use the ones you want to use. When you get to the point in your code where you have the value you want to write to the left output in the accumulator, you perform:
WRAX DACL, 0
(typically). If you wish to write the same value to both left and right and be mono, then:
WRAX DACL, 1
WRAX DACR, 0
Now there are some extra LPF anti-aliasing filtering considerations to be given if you run one out one channel digital back to the other channel analog because of Sigma-Delta conversion or some other fraternity. Best to contact Frank at Experimental Noize (official FV-1 design support) for advice.
Quote from: ElectricDruid on January 27, 2021, 05:50:16 PM
That ought to be possible on an FV-1. You could use the left input/left out for one octave up, and the right side for one octave down, and then feed one into the other! Hey Presto! Hideously munged frankensignal bearing only a passing resemblance to a guitar!
Unless you separately needed the intermediate signal you do not need to have it leave the chip only to come back in the other side. A pitch shift IIRC is about 8 instructions including setup. A pitch shift does use up a RAMP LFO so that's why you can only do two of them at once.
I apologize to any non native English speakers for this post.
But the upshot is that this is not a characteristic one can employ with any of the simple projects using the default programs in the chip. Rather it's something accessible via programming the chip.
For the moment, well above my pay-grade.
Quote from: Digital Larry on January 28, 2021, 09:09:14 AM
Quote from: ElectricDruid on January 27, 2021, 05:50:16 PM
That ought to be possible on an FV-1. You could use the left input/left out for one octave up, and the right side for one octave down, and then feed one into the other! Hey Presto! Hideously munged frankensignal bearing only a passing resemblance to a guitar!
Unless you separately needed the intermediate signal you do not need to have it leave the chip only to come back in the other side. A pitch shift IIRC is about 8 instructions including setup. A pitch shift does use up a RAMP LFO so that's why you can only do two of them at once.
Ah, yes, of course! Makes no sense to go "outside" and then back "inside". And as you mentioned, doing both bits of processing inside the box will avoid any problems with aliasing or HF digital noise on the output going back into the ADC, without the need to stick a LP filter in between. Much more sensible. Thanks Larry.
Ok, sorry. Thread hijack done.
https://www.parasitstudio.se/building-blog/cmos-workshop-part-3-octave-down
This is one way without any programming.
Quote from: craftyjam on January 28, 2021, 07:40:24 PM
https://www.parasitstudio.se/building-blog/cmos-workshop-part-3-octave-down
This is one way without any programming.
(just a note,) This is still monophonic, though...
I love the CMOS Workshop articles!
https://www.musikding.de/The-Range-Germanium-Treblebooster-kit
https://buildyourownclone.com/products/mouse
I also have a Micro POG which I can use for the octave, do you think this would be doable?
can I run these all of a isolated 9v outlet simultaneously, if so how would I go about this?
do you guys have any recommendations for enclosures (in UK or EU preferably due to the deadline.)
There is a cool octave down in this that I have breadboarded before and got to work pretty well with some minor tweaking.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://electro-music.com/forum/phpbb-files/synthax_100_219.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiR3dv-28juAhUCO60KHRKpAewQFjAAegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw3dAi3qX6qSglRXTqsazg_n
Cheers!!
For the Octave I have decided to use the Micro POG, it's not my favourite but it will definitely do the job, I'll do a little research on Rangemaster and RAT kits to see what my options are, feel free to let me know which kits you recommend, I'll update this thread as I find various options and as troubleshooting arises.
i recommend getting some pref-board and do them on those, they are both simple circuits with few parts, so using perf board isn't hard at all here.
a good opamp for the RAT is the LM358, it has the same slew rate as the original LM308, that is in the original pedals, but are quite expensive.
the LM358 is a dual opamp, so you can also use it for the buffer, instead of the original transistor, saving both a few cents and PCB space.
cheers, Iain
I just like to point out this one again:
Quote from: Mark Hammer on January 26, 2021, 10:19:21 AM
Quote from: GuyCorbin2001 on January 26, 2021, 05:14:29 AM
any advice for a beginner in general?
Yes. Start simple.
Polyphonic octaves used to be out of DIY reality some time ago, unless you use a hexaphonic pickup with one octaver per string, and that probably won't even sound good. Now it is more affordable with the FV-1. Will it sound awesome? Maybe. Will it require a complex circuit to make it sound as good as possible? Sure. Is it a beginner project? Probably not.
If you're gonna use a pedal just to take it apart and put it inside another box, it makes more sense to just use it as another extra stompbox or to fully remove it from your project. You already have plenty of stuff to cover with "just" the rangemaster and the rat, like how to pick a transistor and properly bias it for the rangemaster, the reason of the ic you chose for the rat, diode clippers, hard clip vs soft clip, circuit troubleshooting... and, if you want to make your own boards (which isn't a hard deal for those projects even for a complete beginner), you can also include perfboard vs veroboard vs pcb, pcb tone transfer and etching (if you use pcb), layout drawing, and even more. And 12 weeks may be a good deadline or a very short one, it depends on the skills/knowledge you already have, what you still need to learn, and you'll need time to build it, troubleshoot it if needed, and do the paperwork.
Imo, if you pick just one of those circuits, build it all by yourself and document it very well, you'll end with a very good project and way simpler than your first idea. Kits will surely make it easier, but making the board by yourself may add a few satisfaction points when you finish it. Or may add a bit angry points if the board doesn't work :icon_lol:
A nice document on the rangemaster:
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/rangemaster/atboost.pdf
A nice document on the rat:
https://www.electrosmash.com/proco-rat
I ended up by a few kits to experiment with as well as some tools (soldering iron, wire strippers, helping hands, breadboard material, cutting pad.)
I ended up getting a Rangemaster and Rat Kit from Effect Pedal Kits, also bought a Sunn model T pedal kit from FuzzDog just to play around with.
Hi Yall, got all my equipment and the Sunn Kit, made a start on it this evening, this is my first time soldering to a PCB other than some breadboard practice beforehand, by no means done and still needs another evening of work and then testing before I can give it the green light.
(https://i.postimg.cc/p93WdG1H/6914-B87-F-7455-4589-B1-B1-10-B790-BBB438.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p93WdG1H)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qtNB4Vww/9-E5-E5-E12-B626-46-B7-836-F-577-CC226-FA23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtNB4Vww)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HVtkttjw/C63-EF1-E5-C56-D-474-A-A267-67-F99-F42399-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HVtkttjw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RWsCkV7q/E925-CED8-7-F4-E-4322-AD26-6-C36-FAF6-F577.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWsCkV7q)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VrMY0q3b/E9414869-F097-41-D9-ADE9-E076-A473-BCBA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VrMY0q3b)
Looking good so far. I think it's better to test the circuit before you add the switch board. So, if it doesn't work, you know the issue is on the main board and not on the switch.
What's the best way to go about that?
Also does the footswitch need to be installed in any particular orientation or does it not matter.
Quote from: GuyCorbin2001 on February 08, 2021, 11:13:21 AM
Also does the footswitch need to be installed in any particular orientation or does it not matter.
Nope, it doesn't matter...
Unless you're using a 3pdt, there may be chances one might install it sideways accidentally and the effect won't work...
http://pedalparts.co.uk/docs/OptoPuss.pdf
This is the Footswitch and Daughterboard for this test run.
You can't go wrong with a DPDT switch, it's 6 pins are in a rectangular matrix. A 3PDT usually has 9 pins in a square matrix, and they can be fitted sideways - which won't work.
The Octopus schematic has the wrong opto device schematic. The intended TLP222 part is a MOS opto-relay. It couldn't work with the BJT opto drawn!
Hi all, recently finished wiring up everything but good news and bad news.
The switch works and the Jack's get my signal from one side to another however when the pedal is engaged the sound is cut out and the LED doesn't light up, no sure where to start with the troubleshooting and testing, I've just acquired a multimeter in order to test it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PNC2hC5P/A9043-D6-F-ABF6-4-B62-BDBA-B88-B9514-AB0-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PNC2hC5P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BXDpLRD3/B58-B23-DB-5476-4-D33-8-AE4-E0272600-E868.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXDpLRD3)
Actually it'll be really strange if you got sound out of it as it is. Where's the volume pot?
There's a vol 1 and vol 2, vol 2 is optional boost as far as I'm aware.
Correction Vol 2 is just there if you want a different knob layout.
i suggest you lookt at this link:debugging guide (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0)
it might be wise to add 1 volume control, since the signal doesn't pass, on most circuits, if the volume control is left out.
QuoteThe intended TLP222 part is a MOS opto-relay. It couldn't work with the BJT opto drawn!
it can work if you don't mind a bit of crossover distortion and loss in amplitude on one side of the zero-crossing...
cheers
Reheat the joints on your pots. Some of them look a bit undercooked to me. You need the solder to flow into the hole and around the pin, not make little blob. You're heating a great big bit of metal (a pot leg) so it needs a few seconds more than a resistor.
Ok. Could you post a link of the build guide for this board? I googled for sunn t fuzzdog, but found different boards.
http://pedalparts.co.uk/docs/SunnTAMZ.pdf
(https://i.postimg.cc/BXjdfr57/D498479-F-EEF7-44-A3-84-A8-AFE59-D69-B375.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXjdfr57)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CdPWth8f/FD6-BBF2-C-33-D7-4672-96-E0-396-BB8-ABD767.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CdPWth8f)
how come you've linked across R3?
R3 is the current limiting resistor for the led. Since you're not using the led pad, you could just leave it empty. Anyway.
One thing you didn't noticed is you soldered all your pots in the correct place but in reverse. They all should be rotated 180ยบ. Compare your picture with the first one on the build doc. That won't keep the circuit from working, will just make all pots working in reverse rotation. That means they'll be at max setting when you fully rotate them counter-clockwise instead of clockwise. Well, you won't get any sound out of it if your volume pot is set to minimum when you're thinking it is at maximum :icon_mrgreen: but I'm sure you tried to rotate it when testing the circuit.
Btw, I was wrong on the missing volume. The doc says it's a extra place for a centered volume pot, so that's ok the way you did it.
The connection between both boards seems to be correct. The reason for no sound could be swapping in and out jacks, but that doesn't explain the led not liting.
So, before we start to take voltage measurements, let me asking another thing. Are you using a battery or a dc adaptor to power the circuit? If it's a dc adaptor, could you post a picture on how you wired the dc jack?
Also, a (not so) random question, but do you happen to have a spare cap of any value between let's say 10nF and 470nF, and also a spare 1/4" plug or jack (the same as used for guitar cables)? You can make a very useful debugging tool with just those things.
I'm using a 9v battery but I only did the lick test to check it was dead or not, I linked r3 out of pure desperation to see if it made a difference or no.
I have some jacks but am waiting for more capacitors to arrive as I'm out.
First thing, check the battery voltage. Set your multimeter to dc voltage, red probe on + pin of the battery, black probe on the - pin of the battery. If your multimeter have different voltage ranges, set to the one just above 9V (it's usually 20V). You should expect more than 8V from a healthy battery. That said, the 386 draws a good amount of current and you have two of them in the circuit, so I woudn't go for a battery. But anyway.
After you test the battery, plug it on your circuit. Since you used mono jacks (more on that later, let's first do some measures), you don't need to worry on plugging anything else, just the battery. Don't even worry on the switch. And btw, because of the mono jacks, the battery is drained as soon as you put it in the circuit, even you don't plug anything else.
With the multimeter still on dc voltage setting and the same voltage range as before, put the black probe on the ground connection. Any of them will do it. For example, the part of the jack that's connected to ground. Then, with the red probe, check both sides of D1. The side without the line should have the same voltage as the battery, the side with the line should have a bit less voltage. Then check pin 6 of both ICs, they should have the same voltage as the line side of D1. Also check pins 2 and 4 of each IC, they all should be zero. If you don't know how to tell the pin number, look at the ICs with that notch on the "upper side". On the left side you have pins 1, 2, 3 and 4 from top to bottom, and on the right side you have pins 5, 6, 7 and 8 from bottom to top.
Those voltages should give us some info to start the troubleshooting. If the doc had the expected voltages for each IC pin, we could measure them, but I really can't get the reason for not including the voltages on the doc.
And since you have a spare jack but not spare caps, not a problem (if you know what you're doing and we'll help you with that). You can build a tool called audio probe, which is one of the best tools to troubleshoot pedals. Get two pieces of wire, two different colors if possible (and black for one of them, if you have it). Solder one wire to each lug (black wire on the ground lug), and that's it for now. You'll improve it a bit after you get a spare cap. After you post the voltages, if those are correct, I'll guide you on how to use an audio probe.
I'll get some new batteries on the way back from work, also have Cioks power supply so could use that if that is optimal
Just found out my wife had taken liberty to order spare kits for all of them just in case they are FUBAR'd
Quote from: GuyCorbin2001 on March 11, 2021, 10:02:00 AM
also have Cioks power supply
Imo, it's a better idea to use a good power supply when you're testing the stuff you built. If you're gonna use a battery to power it after you box it, it's totally up to you. But when testing, it's good to remove all possible external sources of errors/problems. It's very common to people to spend some time debugging a circuit that's actually good but it wasn't working because of a bad cable or dead battery. And by using a dc adaptor, you'll be sure your power supply is good and the possible issues on the circuit aren't caused by a bad power supply.
Hi guys just put it in to test it and it's kinda of working, led still doesn't working and circuit is very very noisy and wants to feedback, if I touch the parts or footswitch (any substantial piece of metal) the noise goes down significantly, a grounding issue?
Update - in the attempt to reorient the pots I messed up the board, luckily have spare board though.
Noisy can means lots of things. Grounding issue, wires too long (could be an issue on higher gain circuits), interference from other electromagnectic fields that cames from things like a computer, and the list keeps going on.
It was nice you could get it to make it kinda work, but too bad you messed up the board. So it's time to remove everything form one board and put in the new board.
Btw, what made it to go from no sound to kinda working?
I didn't do anything it seems like a bad solder joint must have been the culprit.
Ah it happens very often. How's the new board going?
About 25% on the new board, will post progress pics later his evening.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jn4gZ10p/5578181-D-B94-C-42-D4-AE30-8-A6-CCBA9-A680.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jn4gZ10p)
Sunny-T Extreme is completed, still has some problems but the circuit works overall.
Issues:
LED still doesn't function at all, the Gain control seems to do almost nothing just add fizz in the last 10 percent of its rotation and it's pretty noisy, also it's not "Total Sonic Destruction" like it was described but more of a very low fidelity fuzz distortion, actually works wonderfully as a light fuzz or drive.
Hi all just letting you know after many ruined PCBs and lots of frustration the build is done and is at a function stage, the pedal is super rough in it's presentation, holes in the wrong place and holes that didn't end up being used but it is in the prototype stage and works for the most part.
nice to hear that it works
cjeers
I'll post some photos at some point, is there any way to embed sound clips on here too.
Quote from: GuyCorbin2001 on June 22, 2021, 02:02:39 PM
I'll post some photos at some point, is there any way to embed sound clips on here too.
Don't think so....
But very eager to listen :icon_mrgreen:
i like to upload sound clips to https://vocaroo.com/ (https://vocaroo.com/).
works great
cheers
(https://i.postimg.cc/XpFWbmC3/IMG-0949.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XpFWbmC3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hhQWL6Mx/IMG-0945.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhQWL6Mx)