I bought a super fuzz kit from general guitar gadgets and I think I did everything correctly but when I put a battery in the led wont turn on and the pedal just works as a mute switch. Heres the layout I followed: http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_lo_mods.pdf
And here's my work:
(https://i.postimg.cc/3kznq4fV/20210309-134649.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kznq4fV)
FIY i did change the footswitch and led 'cause i thought they might have been faulty or something.
Hello,
I'd suggest to post a pic of the circuit's soldering side, and an other with the wiring clearly distinguishable and well arranged, so that we can check if everything is in order. Unfortunatly, your picture is out of focus.
Usually when the led doesn't light up in my builds, the led polarity is wrong or there is a mistake in the footswitch's wiring, or there is no power coming to the led's anode. You can check the led with a 9V battery and a 4.7k resistor placed between positive sides of both battery and led.
Is there any sound in bypass mode ? If not, one or both jacks 's wiring may be wrong, or it's the footswitch's wiring again, or there is a short somewhere. It could also be possible that you plugged in the wrong cable to the In/Out jacks when you did the test. This often happens to me !
Be that as it may, a multimeter set on continuity mode will allow you to rule off every possibilities I wrote above.
Here is a classic Footswitch's wiring exemple :
(https://i.postimg.cc/bGdXqZfv/138784-bc5a44ecf530def679368944dbd1b3a1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGdXqZfv)
Edit: I noticed you have some germanium diodes on this build : Sometime the marking (I've been told it's the russian way) is on the positive side instead of negative, as shown on the layout. You might want to check that too with your multimeter set on "diode mode" (like the led symbol).
yes, there is sound in bypass
Also heres some better pics of the inside
(https://i.postimg.cc/CBRcs1BL/20210309-134722.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBRcs1BL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bGNCdLqn/20210310-122402.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGNCdLqn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DScp2R3F/20210310-122420.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DScp2R3F)
(https://i.postimg.cc/McPsBRGF/20210310-122431.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/McPsBRGF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Pp023jYb/20210310-122453.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Pp023jYb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yj4P1XYf/20210310-122510.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yj4P1XYf)
There's a pretty decent chance that you have a number of solder bridges across the board. Some connections look like they don't have enough solder, some too much. Test continuity with a multimeter if you have one. If you don't have a meter to check, reflow you soldering if it looks close to another pad - works better with flux and a hot iron. Do you have anything to practise on? A few test runs before you hit the board might be needed.
I agree with Andy.
The soldering side really needs to be cleaned. I would pass the iron between almost every solder joints to clean the spaces between them. Better to do some quick moves to avoid overheating the pcb (no more than 2 or 3 seconds, even less if you can, and sometimes let the pcb cool down several seconds before coming back with your iron).
You should move the iron even more quickly around transistors because they are very heat-sensitive. If the pcb gets blackened by the heat, your iron is too hot.
After that you can softly use an old and clean toothbrush on the soldering side, to gently give a final cleaning touch.
Some wires seem to be quite burned. If you have no change once you cleaned the pcb, next step should be replacing those with fresh ones. Jacks wiring seems ok, but wires are sligtly burnt too, that would make me uncomfortable, or even suspicious :).
Are you sure the germanium diodes's orientation is correct ? I had some trouble in the past with these and their unusual markings.
Finally, something should be used to prevent the pots from shorting the soldering side of the pcb, once everything is in the enclosure. Plastic tape is ok : just put some tape at the back of the pots located near the pcb : Nothing can touch your pots, not even an other pot.
should i worry about any wires sticking out a little bit from the pcb or anything?
Use cutting pliers to remove carefully anything that sticks out too much from the soldering side of the pcb. This can put some dirt on the circuit, hence the toothbrush. From what I can see, you are ok though.
ok, thx
Is this better? The reason I have a bunch of solder near one of the trimpota is 'cause one of the pads are ekinda burnt out so it's a pain to do anything there.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bGPxvRjh/20210310-153946.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGPxvRjh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Q9410GK8/20210310-154007.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9410GK8)
i also had to change out the germanium diodes for other ones since i lost em lol
And I just realized that the pedal doesn't even need power to do anything, like I can just have it there without any power, and with my guitar going into the out (or input it doesn't matter) and when I try to turn on the pedal it just mutes everything
That's normal for a true bypass pedal - it should pass signal without power.
Either Q4 or Q5 is orientated the wrong way around - probably Q5. They should be facing the same direction, also check Q6.
Polarity of pretty much all electrolytic caps looks to be wrong too - the stripe is the negative side.
@#$%. i had no clue about the polarity and stuff
Germanium diodes give a special sound to your pedal, a more natural and dynamic character. You might want to find or replace them to get the best sound out of this circuit. Be carefull they have a glass body and can easily break if you bend the legs too close to the glass.
It's much better but it looks like you still have some suspicious soldering joints : you can use the picture you posted and zoom in to spot the few remaining suspicious pads. 3 of them obviously need a bit more solder.
The trick is to touch the pad with the tip of your iron, then put the tip of the solder wire on the pad too,give it the right amount of solder (not too much) and finally move the iron away touching and following the component's leg all the way up, to make a nice geometric cone. And do it quickly so that the pcb doesn't get overheated. It's easy once you are used to do it.
If two legs are too close of each other, apply some heat and use a screwdriver or the tip of the iron to bend the legs toward the opposite side.
Flat side of transistors should match the flat line on the pcb's layout.
Quote from: snow123 on March 10, 2021, 08:14:43 PM
@#$%. i had no clue about the polarity and stuff
I hate to say this, but about now is when you might want to consider starting fresh. :-\
Just on polarity, C17 is across V+ and ground. Electrolytic capacitors explode when they are the wrong way around across power rails (a small pop). The ones in the signal path will not explode, but it's not good either.
The diodes are the least of your worries at this point in time - they really don't do much in this circuit anyway. I've built a few, and the action mostly happens with Q4 & Q5.
Quote from: andy-h-h on March 10, 2021, 09:11:40 PM
Quote from: snow123 on March 10, 2021, 08:14:43 PM
@#$%. i had no clue about the polarity and stuff
I hate to say this, but about now is when you might want to consider starting fresh. :-\
Just on polarity, C17 is across V+ and ground. Electrolytic capacitors explode when they are the wrong way around across power rails (a small pop). The ones in the signal path will not explode, but it's not good either.
The diodes are the least of your worries at this point in time - they really don't do much in this circuit anyway. I've built a few, and the action mostly happens with Q4 & Q5.
...but no capacitor have exploded yet, isn't it ? Otherwise it would be noticeable on the pic. I think it's still very much ok... The trimpot's burnt pad is a concern but it "could" be allright, this pcb seems to be good quality.
Edit: even if some caps are damaged (which I don't think they are ) It is easier and cheaper to find new ones and replace them than throwing all of it away, if I may say so.
There should be a swelling at the top of your capacitors if it's blown : here is 3 blown exemples
(https://i.postimg.cc/KR3n19j4/Spot-the-bad-capacitors.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KR3n19j4)
Is it the case ?
Do you have a multimeter and a desoldering pump?
If you have a multimeter measuring some voltages would remove a lot of guessing and allow people to zoom-in on the problem areas.
Quote from: Rob Strand on March 10, 2021, 10:20:19 PM
If you have a multimeter measuring some voltages would remove a lot of guessing and allow people to zoom-in on the problem areas.
yea i have a desoldering pump and have been using it
You will most likely need a multimeter to get this sorted out. A DIY audio probe will also be handy, and you probably already have the parts to make one. You can easily follow the signal path on a super fuzz.
First build?
wait does it matter which way a resistor goes? cause on my multimeter im getting different readings depending where i have the probes
Quote from: snow123 on March 12, 2021, 03:46:23 PM
wait does it matter which way a resistor goes? cause on my multimeter im getting different readings depending where i have the probes
yea its my first full pedal build
Quote from: snow123 on March 12, 2021, 03:46:23 PM
wait does it matter which way a resistor goes? cause on my multimeter im getting different readings depending where i have the probes
i used the multimeter on mostly everything and im getting readings on the wires on the pcb, in/output jacks, dc in, and footswitch but im mixed results everywhere else on the pcb.
And it's impossible to check the pots since this is how I have everything set up
(https://i.postimg.cc/BtSs6PnH/20210312-133847.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BtSs6PnH)
You'll have unstable readings on resistors if you are moving the probes along the legs. If you are steady, it shouldn't do that.
You should test your capacitors to see if they are still ok, since Andy had doubts : he may be right.
Potentiometers are built like tanks, you shouldn't worry about them being broken. Their values is the most important thing, and their wiring : you see their back on the schematic.
Did you correct the soldering ? There was still some suspicious pads on your last pic.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BLY1y9vv/20210312-142409.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLY1y9vv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dD3CC1WZ/20210312-142445.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dD3CC1WZ)
ik it needs some cleaning
(https://i.postimg.cc/1fsHZSBs/20210312-142409modifi-e.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1fsHZSBs)
Green : possible short, need cleaning.
Blue : is it empty ?
Red : the solder is not on the entire pad = bad connection, just touch the pad with the iron untill the solder melt again (2 or 3 sec) and it should be better.
Edit : Maybe your iron isn't hot enough, it should be set around 390-400°C
Did you correct all polarized caps 's orientation ?
blue is empty and yea i corrected all of the electrolytic caps
One more thing : It's ok if the ground poles of your input/output jacks are in contact with the enclosure. It's a problem if the Tip sides of the jacks touch anything, I mean the part where you 've soldered IN/Out wires and the parts that's in contact with the guitar/amp 's jacks. both shouldn't touch anything inside the enclosure (except maybe isolated wires around them, or isolated pots).
Edit: you can carefully bend the soldered poles a little with pliers if needed. Caution, jacks's plastic parts can break if you are going too fast .
Quote from: eh là bas ma on March 12, 2021, 05:12:24 PM
You'll have unstable readings on resistors if you are moving the probes along the legs. If you are steady, it shouldn't do that.
You should test your capacitors to see if they are still ok, since Andy had doubts : he may be right.
Potentiometers are built like tanks, you shouldn't worry about them being broken. Their values is the most important thing, and their wiring : you see their back on the schematic.
Did you correct the soldering ? There was still some suspicious pads on your last pic.
The ones in the signal chain should be fine, the only one that could be damaged is the filter cap across the power supply (C17, 47uf). Resistors are nearly indestructible, as are pots and standard caps. Transistors can be cooked with too much heat.
The board is looking much cleaner by the way. Nice.. ;)
If you can, pull the entire circuit out of the box to check it. I often use a piece of cardboard with holes in it to hold the pots and switches while I work, before I box it up. Sometimes I even label the cardboard to help avoid stupid mistakes. Much easier than working in the box - use the holes on the box as a template.
If your multimeter has a continuity tester, move through the wiring check that nothing is shorted / not connected where it should be. i.e. output jacks and switches. If it works on the bench and not in the box, then you probably have a short to the box.
Ik it's been a bit as I took a break from the project but I just desoldered a bit of where one of the trimpots is and will it be ok??
(https://i.postimg.cc/dkSn9ttP/20210319-171446.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dkSn9ttP)
Misty eyed landscape..
2 remarks about the picture:
- the picture isnt focussed right, the parts we don't care about are sharp, while the thing we want to see is a blur
- get an old toothbrush, some cleaning alcohol and q-tips to clean off as much of the brown gunk from that board as you can, so we can see whats going on underneath the gunk
i suggest you lookt at this link:debugging guide (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0)
cheers
(https://i.postimg.cc/FfWMG9kb/20210320-190117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FfWMG9kb)
i hope thats better
Quote from: snow123 on March 20, 2021, 10:04:48 PM
i hope thats better
yes, great!
i think it would be wise to add a snipped component lead and use that to make a connection across the burned pin and the next pin over, so there actually is a current path, i doubt the burned track conducts much.
cheers
edit: if it still doesn't work, i re-suggest you look at this link:debugging guide (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0)
wdym by that?
I think that what Iain means is that the track is no longer there. I think what you're seeing is a "shadow" of where the track used to be. (If it's really there, you should be able to tin it.) So you need to make the connection yourself: as Iain suggests, use a small piece of wire to join the adjacent good pad to the component lead poking through into the damaged area.
There is also a place where the track has been lifted completely off the board pulling the trace up too.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QKcshDgr/Untitled.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QKcshDgr)
how would i fix that?
Put a smear of epoxy glue around lifted pad and keep it pressed for a short time.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: bluebunny on March 21, 2021, 06:42:38 AM
I think that what Iain means is that the track is no longer there. I think what you're seeing is a "shadow" of where the track used to be. (If it's really there, you should be able to tin it.) So you need to make the connection yourself: as Iain suggests, use a small piece of wire to join the adjacent good pad to the component lead poking through into the damaged area.
would i use some solid core wire for that?
Quote from: snow123 on March 21, 2021, 01:51:15 PM
would i use some solid core wire for that?
Yep. An off-cut from a resistor would work fine.
I saw that transistor orientation was addressed previously so maybe this isn't helpful, but I remember reading this on GGG when I built this kit:
Please Note: The 2N2222A transistors in the kit have a pin designation opposite of
most transistors that we use. So The transistors are mounted opposite of what the
screen-print on the PCB indicates.
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_instruct.pdf
T
Quote from: tl-ww-ext on March 22, 2021, 10:21:41 AM
I saw that transistor orientation was addressed previously so maybe this isn't helpful, but I remember reading this on GGG when I built this kit:
Please Note: The 2N2222A transistors in the kit have a pin designation opposite of
most transistors that we use. So The transistors are mounted opposite of what the
screen-print on the PCB indicates.
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_instruct.pdf
T
You're right, this is quite confusing.
All transistors in this fuzz are 2n2222a. According to some datasheets i could find, pinout can change depending on manufacturers. I'd suggest to look for the manufacturer, if it's written on yours, or send an email to ask GGG (if you bought the whole kit from them), or some voltage readings will be required to be sure.
two exemples showing different pinout : https://html.alldatasheet.fr/html-pdf/75121/MICRO-ELECTRONICS/2N2222/1445/1/2N2222.html
https://html.alldatasheet.fr/html-pdf/277968/SECOS/2N2222A/150/1/2N2222A.html
Quote from: eh là bas ma on March 22, 2021, 05:12:05 PM...two exemples showing different pinout ....
I see the same pinout.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kVXB3qnh/PN2222-pins-42.gif) (https://postimg.cc/kVXB3qnh)
??? I am sorry if I am wrong.
You might be right, but I still see opposite pinout if I flip the left one's flat side in my head to match the other one: I must be missing something...
Edit : ah, it's viewed from below !
the general rule with those [isometric?] pinout drawings is that you can't see the pins when you look at the top of the transistor.
edit: end elevation plan something - I've forgotten all I learnt in tech drawing.
Ok, I swapped out the transistors with regular 2n2222a's and a couple of the caps since they seemed to be damaged.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zb230BT9/20210330-%20:icon_sad:%20:icon_wink:115701.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zb230BT9)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lhqsmmt8/20210330-115727.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lhqsmmt8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/K4414P2F/20210330-115912.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4414P2F)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hQ74s0Dd/20210330-115943.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hQ74s0Dd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZJ4Zj8D/20210330-115949.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZJ4Zj8D)
and the multimeter readings ive been getting are still kinda random, like some parts will make the MM beep and others wont. but most of the wiring is good, so the issue is somewhere on pcb with the caps and resistors.
That switch jumper above your thumb does not go to the outside posts like in Arons picture. Which is not to say what you have is incorrect, just an observation.
(That was a few photos back, I see now the things have changed)
Don't let me confuse this thread...........
When you test the circuit, is it still the same ? There is some sound only in bypassed mode ?
C17 (47uf) looks in bad shape on your picture, It would be safer to test it, to make sure there is no issue with it.
There should be a capacitor testing mode on your multimeter.
Trimmers should be set on 12' when you are testing with your guitar, and turn them carefully (don't touch anything else on the circuit) while playing to hear if there is any change.
Here is a link to help you figure out your NPN transistor's orientation, if there is still doubts : http://www.electricalbasicprojects.com/how-to-identify-npn-and-pnp-transistor-using-multimeter/
I see you have a stereo Input jack. Is there a chance that you used the wrong terminal to solder your IN wire ? here is an exemple: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/how-to-build-it/building-kits/wiring-input-output-jacks/
Ok, I just swapped out the trimpots and changed out all of the electrolytic caps, and placed a resistor in between the footswitch and led.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fkXffrdj/20210406-162538.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkXffrdj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RJrQzckH/20210406-162546.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RJrQzckH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D8TdjPdV/20210406-162601.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8TdjPdV)
honestly i feel like i should just start over
like probably just get a new pcb since ive kinda burnt it up quite a bit
Did you try to change the footswitch ? It is my last resort when a circuit doesn't work and i don't know why...It worked once or twice.
I wouldn't get my hopes up because the soldering side of your pcb looks like there has been some struggling, but if you have an other 3pdt around, it might worth a try, just in case.
led resistor should be something between 3.3k and 4.7k, If i am not mistaking.
Getting a new pcb without parts means you are willing to desolder everything. It's easily managable with patience and desoldering practice, but I would at least get new transistors as well, because they are heat-sensitive. All your other components are more resistant.
You should use sockets for your transistors next time, these will allow you to easily take them off the pcb, to protect them from heat, while you work on the pcb, or change their orientation if need be, without using an iron.
It looks like that : https://www.musikding.de/20-Pin-inline-socket
You just push the transistor's legs inside the tiny holes. It can also be useful for diodes or whatever component, if you want to try different things.
I would suggest to start again with a whole new kit, and keep this one for the day you will be more experienced. When you'll have 10 or 20 kits done, you might be able to get this one working and add mods. But this is just an opinion.
Debugging a circuit is easier when you are familiar with multimeter's functions, electronics basics, and when you already have debugged some circuits. The first time debugging is always quite difficult. I'm sure you have already learned a few things about polarity and soldering.
I am sorry we couldn't help you more and get this fuzz working.
Edit : if you couldn't even turn on the led, it could mean that your DC power jack wiring is wrong, or the footswitch wiring is wrong, or the footswitch is defective...or the led wiring is wrong.
I'm not really sure what you meant by 'regular 2n2222a's' when you mentioned the transistors previously, but it seems like if you are using 2n2222a's they should be oriented opposite what is indicated on the pcb. That is, rotated 180 degrees from what you show in the last picture showing the transistors. That's how they are in my working pedal, built from a GGG kit.
Others who know much more about this can certainly correct me if I'm wrong on this.
T
page 4. please, it's time you took voltage measures on each of the transistors, and the supply voltage on the board, and posted them here.
im thinking of getting a new pcb since i already have most of the other parts on hand.
ive also been working on 2 other projects (a phase 90 & a buffer) while doing this lol
Quote from: tl-ww-ext on April 07, 2021, 09:32:48 AM
I'm not really sure what you meant by 'regular 2n2222a's' when you mentioned the transistors previously, but it seems like if you are using 2n2222a's they should be oriented opposite what is indicated on the pcb. That is, rotated 180 degrees from what you show in the last picture showing the transistors. That's how they are in my working pedal, built from a GGG kit.
Others who know much more about this can certainly correct me if I'm wrong on this.
T
the ones in the kit were pn2222a's so i swapped em out with standard 2n2222a's.
...pn2222a's so i swapped em out with standard 2n2222a's.
OK, I get what you're saying, but... When I look up PN2222A vs 2N2222A, I actually see the same pinout, that is, reversed from what is shown on the pcb. Here's a link: http://www.analogzoo.com/2015/03/beware-the-p2n222a/
Now, there are also P2N2222A's - note the '2' right after the 'P' that do indeed have a pinout opposite the PN2222A/2N2222A transistors. If you were using P2N2222A, then I would say yes, they should be installed according to the print on the pcb. FWIW I remember being getting very confused about the orientation on these and used sockets just in case. Good luck,
T
You can always test your transistor if you're not sure about the pinout. Use a dedicated tester (like a Peak DCA55) or the transistor tester functionality of many DMMs. Or you can use the diode function of a DMM to work it out (https://allabouteng.com/how-to-transistor-test/).
Quote from: snow123 on April 07, 2021, 04:43:11 PM
im thinking of getting a new pcb since i already have most of the other parts on hand.
Start fresh / new board :) pop that in a draw somewhere, forget about it and look at it again months later.
Quote from: tl-ww-ext on April 08, 2021, 09:11:16 AM
...pn2222a's so i swapped em out with standard 2n2222a's.
OK, I get what you're saying, but... When I look up PN2222A vs 2N2222A, I actually see the same pinout, that is, reversed from what is shown on the pcb. Here's a link: http://www.analogzoo.com/2015/03/beware-the-p2n222a/
Now, there are also P2N2222A's - note the '2' right after the 'P' that do indeed have a pinout opposite the PN2222A/2N2222A transistors. If you were using P2N2222A, then I would say yes, they should be installed according to the print on the pcb. FWIW I remember being getting very confused about the orientation on these and used sockets just in case. Good luck,
T
yea i meant to say p2n2222a's
Ok, I got everything on the new board done except for the offboard wiring. How does it look?
(https://i.postimg.cc/cv7rxCnk/20210413-145844.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cv7rxCnk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/s18BKtzm/20210413-150034.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s18BKtzm)
I think it does need a bit of cleaning up as I had to replace some components that were burnt up or something
also, i had to use lead free solder since i ran out of leaded solder
Quote from: snow123 on April 13, 2021, 06:04:53 PM
also, i had to use lead free solder since i ran out of leaded solder
Get hold of some flux if you need to resolder or reflow - makes a massive difference.
Looking good, magnifying glass helps to check. Good luck. :icon_biggrin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/FkrqFNLW/20210413-150034.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkrqFNLW)
You're getting the hang of it. I'd bet it's going to work this time... I see some suspicious spots with possible shorts, I circled them in red. A quick move with the soldering iron and it should be perfect.
Caution with germanium diodes, I learned on this forum that some russian made diodes can have the marking band on the + side. The glass body is very fragile and easily breaks when we bend the legs too close to the glass. They sound great though...
Quote from: eh là bas ma on April 13, 2021, 11:37:53 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/FkrqFNLW/20210413-150034.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkrqFNLW)
Caution with germanium diodes, I learned on this forum that some russian made diodes can have the marking band on the + side. The glass body is very fragile and easily breaks when we bend the legs too close to the glass. They sound great though...
Diode polarity is not an issue with this circuit, as there's a pair both going to ground with alternating polarity. Makes no difference.
True though - Russian diode marking are the wrong way around and they do break easily.
Ok, just finished everything, how does it look? I am kinda worried about the little scraps that are stuck in the enclosure
(https://i.postimg.cc/NyT9VCy4/20210426-132650.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NyT9VCy4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/phHhtQzt/20210426-132701.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/phHhtQzt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ppGFnFbD/20210426-132713.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppGFnFbD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/688GVptF/20210426-132718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/688GVptF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/D8yGZcDv/20210426-132729.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8yGZcDv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YGM9PrBr/20210426-132958.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YGM9PrBr)
Looks good ! I spotted a possible short though :
(https://i.postimg.cc/XZThJV5q/20210426-132650.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZThJV5q)
I would clean the enclosure with Q-tips or a toothbrush, these scraps may cause some shorts if they move on the circuit.
It doesn't change anything to the sound but many pedal builders like to shorten their wires as much as possible, to get a nice, clean, well-organized build. It makes it easier to fit in the enclosure and gives you some room to add pots and switches if you want to add some mods (diodes switch, bass knob...)
Edit: you can find some amazing exemples on this thread :
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.29200
Quote from: snow123 on April 26, 2021, 04:30:24 PM
Ok, just finished everything, how does it look? I am kinda worried about the little scraps that are stuck in the enclosure
So its working?
Quote from: andy-h-h on April 26, 2021, 06:12:10 PM
Quote from: snow123 on April 26, 2021, 04:30:24 PM
Ok, just finished everything, how does it look? I am kinda worried about the little scraps that are stuck in the enclosure
So its working?
well i just plugged it in and static is coming out of the amp, nothing else is.
but the led is now turning on and off when it should!!
Quote from: snow123 on April 26, 2021, 08:37:20 PM
Quote from: andy-h-h on April 26, 2021, 06:12:10 PM
Quote from: snow123 on April 26, 2021, 04:30:24 PM
Ok, just finished everything, how does it look? I am kinda worried about the little scraps that are stuck in the enclosure
So its working?
well i just plugged it in and static is coming out of the amp, nothing else is.
and the trimpots adjust how much static gets through.
Did you do something about the possible short I saw on your picture ?
If so, it's time for voltage readings :
"Now, using the original schematic as a reference for which part is which (that is, which transistor is Q1, Q2, etc. and which IC is IC1, IC2, C1, and so on) measure and list the voltage on each pin of every transistor and IC. Just keep the black lead on ground, and touch the pointed end of the red probe to each one in turn. Report the voltages as follows:
Q1
C =
B =
E =
Q2
C=
B=
E= "
ye i did do something about that short
so do i have to solder on the top to test the ground?
Quote from: eh là bas ma on April 26, 2021, 09:26:04 PM
Did you do something about the possible short I saw on your picture ?
If so, it's time for voltage readings :
"Now, using the original schematic as a reference for which part is which (that is, which transistor is Q1, Q2, etc. and which IC is IC1, IC2, C1, and so on) measure and list the voltage on each pin of every transistor and IC. Just keep the black lead on ground, and touch the pointed end of the red probe to each one in turn. Report the voltages as follows:
Q1
C = 001
B = 001
E = 001
Q2
C= 001
B= 001
E= 001
Voltages should be somewhere in this area
https://www.circuitlab.com/circuit/282u75p484h6/univox-superfuzz/
(https://i.postimg.cc/DJ9Y1PkF/univox-superfuzz.png) (https://postimg.cc/DJ9Y1PkF)
Quote from: snow123 on April 26, 2021, 10:21:26 PM
so do i have to solder on the top to test the ground?
You don't need to solder anything to take measurements with the multimeter.
You don't need to test the ground : the black lead is always connected to ground, any ground, like jack's GND or DC power jack's GND, without soldering it. The red lead is in contact with one transistor's leg at a time, in order to read its voltage with the multimeter. The circuit should be connected to 9V power supply, to have some voltage in the transistors.
Q1
C = .947
B = .932
E = .978
Q2
C= .936
B= .937
E= .940
and some of my readings were quite inconsistent so i checked continuity and the probes are grounded to the pcb
I would check if there is 9V coming on the board (black lead on ground and red on 9V pad) :
(https://i.postimg.cc/2bd2NXdG/20210413-145844.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bd2NXdG)
I don't understand why you left C3 and C15 empty. Your schematics don't mention anything about it.
If you think it's ok to leave them empty, you can try to put a jumper at C3 (connect both empty pads with a short wire that you can easily remove), if there is no change, try to put one at C15, if still nothing changes, try to put jumpers at both C3 and C15.
If it's still doesn't work, I would try to remove Q1 and see if there is some voltage at these pads. If there is, try to turn it around, in case it is oriented the wrong way.
Edit : to test voltage you need to set your multimeter on position marked "6" on this picture (DC voltage)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4n1bsSq7/multimeter-symbols.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4n1bsSq7)
GGG said that c3 and c15 arent needed (on the mod info page for the kit:http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_mods.pdfhttp://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_mods.pdf) and i didnt have the right cap for c3 so i just removed c15 aswell.
Quote from: snow123 on April 27, 2021, 02:59:18 PM
GGG said that c3 and c15 arent needed (on the mod info page for the kit:http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_mods.pdfhttp://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_mods.pdf) and i didnt have the right cap for c3 so i just removed c15 aswell.
Sorry but your link gives me a "No Results Found"
Edit: I've found this : http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_mods.pdf
Looks like you are right, and there is no jumper on their picture.
C15 is a Q6 Collector-Base feedback cap (Miller) so better left "open" than shorted via jumper.. :icon_wink:
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_sc.pdf (http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_sc.pdf)
I think i might have spotted something : on the picture in exemple here : http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_mods.pdf
there is a jumper near D2 (marked "a / b "). Looks like on your build these pads are empty... I'm not quite sure about this but it might worth the try.
Edit : I don't see these mysterious pads on the picture shown here, but there is a chart of voltages that you can use, I guess.
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_instruct.pdf
Quote from: eh là bas ma on April 27, 2021, 03:45:11 PM
I think i might have spotted something : on the picture in exemple here : http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_mods.pdf
there is a jumper near D2 (marked "a / b "). Looks like on your build these pads are empty... I'm not quite sure about this but it might worth the try.
nah i do have the jumper there, its just kinda hard to see
(https://i.postimg.cc/F7zBWtP5/Inked20210413-145844-LI.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7zBWtP5)
Looking at your schematics, at your build and at this picture, considering that you said in reply #68 that you are using p2n2222a :
(https://i.postimg.cc/V0FKCtMB/2-N2222-PN2222-and-P2-N2222-BJT-Pinout.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V0FKCtMB)
schems:
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_lo_mods.pdf
(https://i.postimg.cc/grfhVj43/20210426-132701.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I think your transistors are the wrong way around...
Quote from: eh là bas ma on April 27, 2021, 05:05:14 PM
Looking at your schematics, at your build and at this picture, considering that you said in reply #68 that you are using p2n2222a :
(https://i.postimg.cc/V0FKCtMB/2-N2222-PN2222-and-P2-N2222-BJT-Pinout.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V0FKCtMB)
schems:
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_lo_mods.pdf
(https://i.postimg.cc/grfhVj43/20210426-132701.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I think your transistors are the wrong way around...
the kit came with p2n2222a's but im using regular 2n2222a's.
Looks like the pcb layout isn't the same as the schematics from your first post. One way to make sure they are oriented right is to test Q1 :
Q1's Collector should ring with R4 with your multimeter on continuity mod. If it does, then there is no doubt about transistors orientation anymore.
yep it beeps when doing that
Do you read 9V with your multimeter on the pcb 9V pad ?
i dont think im getting 9v on the Multimeter but the multimeter does make the led and stuff flicker
the reason i say "i dont think im getting 9v" is 'cause the number on the MM im using goes up by itself and sometimes stays arounds the 7-9mv area.
Well, that might be the cause of your trouble. I forgot to say that the pedal needs to be connected to the battery or a 9V DC power supply and switched on, before you check the voltage on the pcb's 9V pad.
If you still don't have 9V, turn it off, unplugg all power sources, check the wiring on your DC power jack (sometimes the tip of the wires can touch each other and create a short). If it is correct, look for suspicious soldering joints that could need reflowing on your pcb ( remember transistors are heat-sensitive, you need to be quick if you apply heat around them).
Edit: if you're using a battery as power supply, test it with your MM to see if there is really 9V. The battery needs an audio jack plugged in the IN input to feed the circuit, that's why it's connected to the IN jack.
Edit 2 : On your picture I can't really see what is connected to the three DC power jack's terminals. It needs to be wired precisely as shown on the instructions.
its connected to a power supply
and i dont think any wires are shorting out on the dc jack 'cause i dont have the battery clip connected and i have a heatshrink on the lug that connects to the pcb, and i have tape covering up the pots.
This is simple : there is a red wire going fron the DC jack to the pcb 9V pad. A direct connection from your power supply to the board. If your MM can't read 9V on this pad, either you are using the wrong methode to take voltage measurements with the MM, or the wire isn't connected to the right power jack's terminal.
To read voltage you have to keep the black lead on ground first, and make a steady contact to the pcb 9V pad with the red lead. MM set on DC voltage as described in reply #88.
I think the circuit isn't properly fed with current, that's why it doesn't work yet.
oh i think i was on AC instead of DC lol
i just set it to DC and im still getting nothing
Was the pedal switched on with the status led activated, when you tested for 9V on the board ?
yep
Did you check the DC power jack wiring to see if it is exactly connected as shown on the instructions (middle lug for the battery, outer lug for pcb 9V and square-angled lug for ground) ?
here is a clear exemple on page 4:
https://www.musikding.de/docs/basics/installationguideV001_en.pdf
An other possibility would be that the board isn't correctly connected to ground, preventing the current from coming in the pcb. On schematics, the pcb ground pad is only connected to the 3PDT footswitch. You can try to add a wire from the DC jack's ground to the board ground's pad (G).
Edit : sorry, I missed the Out jack that should already do the connection between the DC power jack GND and the pcb's GND. Just in case, you should check if every ground connections shown on the instructions is correctly wired in your build.
can you please tell us the make and model number of the multimeter you are using, and/or take a photo of the meter as you do a voltage measure, say of the +9V onboard connection?
(https://i.postimg.cc/8J7v57rt/20210428-121559.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8J7v57rt)
i have another one that beeps but its cooked
Black probe in COM (GND) and Red probe in place of Black one (VΩmA)..
(and voltage range selector on 20VDC)
(https://i.imgur.com/HM3vWRA.jpg)
P.S.
I'm not surprised for your cooked multimeter.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: antonis on April 28, 2021, 03:55:26 PM
Black probe in COM (GND) and Red probe in place of Black one (VΩmA)..
(and voltage range selector on 20VDC)
Now you should be able to test for 9V on the pcb, and give us some more accurate voltage readings on your transistors's legs ?
i got 9.2 volts now
Q1
C = 5.6
B = .7
E = .1
Q2
C= 9.2
B= 5.6
E= 5.1
Q3
C= switches between 6.1 & 6.2
B= 3.3
E= 3
Q4
C= 1.7
B= 1.8
E= 1.3
Q5
C= 1.7
B= 1.9
E= 1.3
Q6
C= 3.5
B= 1.1
E= .5
i had the DMM on 200 DCV btw
i also had the black lead on the 9v jacks GND
According to the voltage chart on this file, looks like all your transistors are behaving correctly.
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_instruct.pdf
This should mean that everything is in order on the pcb, at least until Q6 included.
Check your soldering on your IN/Out jacks, on R30, R31 and R32, also your soldering and orientation of C16 and C17. There is a jumper between lug 2 and 3 on the Tone pot, check if it's ok, and see if there is no mistakes with the pot's values and wiring*.
If it's allright, it's very possible that you have made a mistake with the wiring somewhere, or with the way you plugged your guitar and your amp to the pedal. An other possibility would be a short on your footswitch (although I don't notice anything suspicious on your picture).
I'm sure you know this already but I'll say it nonetheless, just to make sure : your guitar's cable goes to In (J1) and the Out jack (J2) goes to the amplifier's cable.
I think you are very close to finish this build...
*Edit : in the wiring instructions, pots are viewed from the back, the way they are when you look inside the enclosure.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mzYCBFjP/b1926e59756152edf57f041c1793eab7.png) (https://postimg.cc/mzYCBFjP)
I think something is still a little weird. ??? Base voltages higher than collector?
Q4
C= 1.7
B= 1.8
E= 1.3
Q5
C= 1.7
B= 1.9
E= 1.3
Quote from: snow123 on April 28, 2021, 06:50:24 PM
i had the DMM on 200 DCV btw
ΒΤW, you DON'T follow what you're told to do..
Quote from: antonis on April 28, 2021, 03:55:26 PM
Black probe in COM (GND) and Red probe in place of Black one (VΩmA)..
(and voltage range selector on 20VDC)
P.S.
Except Q4 & Q5 "over-saturated" indication, Q3 (phase splitter) isn't very happy with only 300mV B-E drop..
You might get yourself a better DMM.. :icon_wink:
I think your transistors are the wrong way around...
[/quote]
the kit came with p2n2222a's but im using regular 2n2222a's.
[/quote]
Sorry for beating the dead horse on this, but... My GGG kit came with PN2222a's NOT P2N2222a's. PN2222a's and 2N2222a's (that you're using) appear to have the same pinout and it should be oriented opposite what's drawn on the pcb. I could be wrong, but I still think this is an issue.
T
in the build doc quoted in the first post, the transistor outline printed on the board shows correct for BC series transistor, or for the P2N2222's which we know pin the other way to PN2222. [2N2222 should be metal can, PN should be plastic.]
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_lo_mods.pdf
we know this because the board also shows e b c markings. however, in the last show photo of the offending build, we see the silkscreen is reversed, and is now correct for PN2222's.
(https://i.postimg.cc/F7zBWtP5/Inked20210413-145844-LI.jpg)
so to my eye, IF snow123 has fitted PN2222's, they are correctly oriented. a photo of the transistors showing the part number would be ..... illustrative.
OK, I missed that - sounds like they're good then on the orientation. Thanks,
T
I say flog the dead horse until you see a photo of it. and voltage measures, obviously.
Quote from: duck_arse on April 30, 2021, 11:34:14 AM
and voltage measures, obviously.
7 pages and not properly taken voltage readings yet.. 8)
Quo usque tandem abutere, snow123, patientia nostra? :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: antonis on April 30, 2021, 03:56:07 PM
Quote from: duck_arse on April 30, 2021, 11:34:14 AM
and voltage measures, obviously.
7 pages and not properly taken voltage readings yet.. 8)
Quo usque tandem abutere, snow123, patientia nostra? :icon_mrgreen:
i did the transistor voltages, do i have to do voltage measures on everything else?
Quote from: snow123 on April 30, 2021, 04:38:24 PM
i did the transistor voltages, do i have to do voltage measures on everything else?
Of course you did but those voltage
readings are inaccurate..
(mostly due to your particular DMM's inaccuracy..)
ok, all of the resistors and diodes are grounded
and all the offboard wiring is grounded
and c12 is grounded
and transistors
Quote from: snow123 on April 30, 2021, 05:02:12 PM
ok, all of the resistors and diodes are grounded
OK but I measure 18 (or 19, depending on R22 setting) not grounded resistors..
(https://i.imgur.com/hJjX11b.png)
Ok, how much should the transistor voltage readings vary from GGG's chart of voltages?
Any consideration for starting with a smaller build and getting a few of those to work, then come back to this later? ::)
welp i just plugged it in and when i turn it on it just creates static without letting my dry signal through, and expand knob controls the level of the static and depending on what components i touch in the pcb it stops the static. so im thinking some of the caps might be an issue 'cause i couldnt really check the continuity of the caps and im using a mylar and a ceramic cap instead of polyester film caps. and there could be a couple of shorts is certain places.
i also changed out q1 since it was pretty suspicious with the voltage readings.
Quote from: antonis on April 30, 2021, 05:47:24 PM
Quote from: snow123 on April 30, 2021, 05:02:12 PM
ok, all of the resistors and diodes are grounded
OK but I measure 18 (or 19, depending on R22 setting) not grounded resistors..
(https://i.imgur.com/hJjX11b.png)
i meant my DMM beeps when i put one lead on the leg and the other lead on the joint
One of the legs of R1 is in the wrong solder pad, I've marked in purple which leg it is and which hole it needs to go in ( :icon_mrgreen:).
Fix this and report back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/75QKz1kp/resistor-leg1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75QKz1kp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8LMB8Zt/resistor-leg2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8LMB8Zt)
OH. I DIDNT REALIZE THAT
ok, im just gonna put heat shrinks and electrical tape everywhere to make sure there arent any shorts anywhere
and the center ground on the footswitch is defo a massive culprit for shorts
ok so now the true bypass isnt working, it only lets the dry signal through when the pedal is on
Quote from: aelling on April 30, 2021, 10:21:22 PM
One of the legs of R1 is in the wrong solder pad, I've marked in purple which leg it is and which hole it needs to go in ( :icon_mrgreen:).
Fix this and report back.
(https://i.postimg.cc/75QKz1kp/resistor-leg1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75QKz1kp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8LMB8Zt/resistor-leg2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8LMB8Zt)
Suggestions:
PROBE ITBuild an audio probe and use it to trace the signal (google it). If you were using a probe, you would have found out that that the signal was not actually making it to the first transistor (R1 being on the wrong pad), and you would have worked this out quickly.
SIMPLE IS GOODUnwire the circuit from the stomp switch - just have the straight inputs and outputs and no other distractions. Make sure the circuit is working before wiring up stop switches and boxing. At least this way you start with a working circuit, and if in the process of boxing it up new issues appear, it's not the circuit, it's off-board issues.
BREADBOARDIf you plan on building a few, buy a cheap breadboard and you can use this as a test platform.
Tbh I've just been using the multimeter to make sure all tracks and joints on the pcb are connected, and everything on the pcb doesn't seem to have any issues so I'm thinking the main issues could be is how the 1/4' jacks, dc jack, and footswitch are wired.
Also, I should note that when I have the pedal turned on, it sound like half the the effect is going through, making me think that there might me something wrong in between the input/output jacks, pcb and (maybe) footswitch.
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 05:13:12 AM
Also, I should note that when I have the pedal turned on, it sound like half the the effect is going through, making me think that there might me something wrong in between the input/output jacks, pcb and (maybe) footswitch.
Which is exactly why you should strip it back to just the circuit and trace the signal with a probe.
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 05:06:14 AM
Tbh I've just been using the multimeter to make sure all tracks and joints on the pcb are connected, and everything on the pcb doesn't seem to have any issues so I'm thinking the main issues could be is how the 1/4' jacks, dc jack, and footswitch are wired.
Test for continuity between tip and sleeve on the in/output jack with you multimeter, if it beeps it's shorting to ground somewhere.
EDIT: Also, the resistor on the footswitch shouldn't be needed, just a wire to the LED.
Quote from: aelling on May 01, 2021, 09:23:22 AM
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 05:06:14 AM
Tbh I've just been using the multimeter to make sure all tracks and joints on the pcb are connected, and everything on the pcb doesn't seem to have any issues so I'm thinking the main issues could be is how the 1/4' jacks, dc jack, and footswitch are wired.
Test for continuity between tip and sleeve on the in/output jack with you multimeter, if it beeps it's shorting to ground somewhere.
EDIT: Also, the resistor on the footswitch shouldn't be needed, just a wire to the LED.
i got a beep on the output jack.
Here's the front with the pots and stuff and how I have the footswitch wired if it helps at all
(https://i.postimg.cc/m1Fk2hqH/20210501-122716.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m1Fk2hqH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Js78pGq5/20210501-122834.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Js78pGq5)
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 03:22:33 PM
Quote from: aelling on May 01, 2021, 09:23:22 AM
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 05:06:14 AM
Tbh I've just been using the multimeter to make sure all tracks and joints on the pcb are connected, and everything on the pcb doesn't seem to have any issues so I'm thinking the main issues could be is how the 1/4' jacks, dc jack, and footswitch are wired.
Test for continuity between tip and sleeve on the in/output jack with you multimeter, if it beeps it's shorting to ground somewhere.
EDIT: Also, the resistor on the footswitch shouldn't be needed, just a wire to the LED.
i got a beep on the output jack.
I'm wondering if the tip on the jacks have been touching the walls of the enclosure, they look like they sit awfully close in this photo.
https://postimg.cc/688GVptF
Maybe put a little electrical tape inside so that can't happen.
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 03:22:33 PM
i got a beep on the output jack.
But beep is tone and tone is sound.. :icon_wink:
P.S.
You've got beep when probing what points..??
tip and sleeve on output jack
If so, you have a shorted output..
No signal can go further hence no output sound..
how do i fix it tho?
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 05:45:49 PM
how do i fix it tho?
The enclosure gets grounded by the jacks, so check if the tip of the jacks are touching anywhere on the inside once mounted.
somehow the 1st lug on the expand knob is grounded to the enclousure
wtf everything on the input jacks sleeve is grounded to the enclosure
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 06:58:00 PM
somehow the 1st lug on the expand knob is grounded to the enclousure
It's supposed to be - have a look at the schematic
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 07:19:48 PM
wtf everything on the input jacks sleeve is grounded to the enclosure
The sleeve is ground, so that's OK, in fact it should work like this. You need to be worried about the tip.
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_lo.pdf
Go through your build with the black probe held firmly on the enclosure, and use the red probe to test everything that should not be connected to ground (black on the diagram).
Then check that everything that should be grounded, is grounded.
Test the switch in the on and off position.
the tip on both jacks are grounded to the enclosure
and the pots are grounded where they should be
Quote from: snow123 on May 01, 2021, 07:35:25 PM
the tip on both jacks are grounded to the enclosure
That's quite a problem, but it should have an easy fix.
First make sure that the tip connector is not actually in contact with the enclosure. From some of the photos you posted, the tip lug looks really close to the enclosure.
There's also some connections that look uncomfortably close on the board, any movement and they could short.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jwqpDrKn/Screen-Shot-2021-05-02-at-11-35-31-am.png) (https://postimg.cc/jwqpDrKn)
I can't see what's going on with the wiring or switch, however I would check the switch, as it looks a bit interesting. I would go as far as to say that you will most likely find issues with the switch wiring.
Test continuity between the points that should not be connected, bearing in mind that this will change depending on the on/off status.
image from stew mac
(https://i.postimg.cc/BtVrnyzt/Screen-Shot-2021-05-02-at-11-36-41-am.png) (https://postimg.cc/BtVrnyzt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0PqcpWw/Screen-Shot-2021-05-02-at-11-51-16-am.png) (https://postimg.cc/r0PqcpWw)
Here's some better pics of the footswitch, and the resistor the goes before the led is covered in electrical tape. And I checked continuity on the b2 and 0 pads and there doesn't seem to be a short or anything there.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yD28v21T/20210501-184901.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yD28v21T)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hXXG8KBj/20210501-184906.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXXG8KBj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/R3fV8Gqx/20210501-184911.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3fV8Gqx)
Quote from: snow123 on April 30, 2021, 09:27:18 PM
i meant my DMM beeps when i put one lead on the leg and the other lead on the joint
I am not sure if it's helpful, but "grounded" usually means "connected to ground", I think there will be some confusion if you use that word to express the idea of connection between two points.
" ground or earth is the reference point in an electrical circuit from which voltages are measured, a common return path for electric current", " ground is the lowest potential in a circuit, for exemple the minus side of a battery or DC supply. "
Quote from: eh la bas ma on May 01, 2021, 10:08:55 PM
Quote from: snow123 on April 30, 2021, 09:27:18 PM
i meant my DMM beeps when i put one lead on the leg and the other lead on the joint
I am not sure if it's helpful, but "grounded" usually means "connected to ground", I think there will be some confusion if you use that word to express the idea of connection between two points.
" ground or earth is the reference point in an electrical circuit from which voltages are measured, a common return path for electric current", " ground is the lowest potential in a circuit, for exemple the minus side of a battery or DC supply. "
oh, sry for the confusion.
^^ yeah, this.
When you've been saying "grounded", you really mean "connected".
No wonder my head hurts! :o (Never mind the lack of coffee so far...)
but why is the tip on the output jack grounded?
Quote from: snow123 on May 02, 2021, 03:29:27 PM
but why is the tip on the output jack grounded?
Very nice question and thank you very much for asking us..!! :icon_cool:
Quote from: antonis on May 02, 2021, 03:44:58 PM
Quote from: snow123 on May 02, 2021, 03:29:27 PM
but why is the tip on the output jack grounded?
Very nice question and thank you very much for asking us..!! :icon_cool:
y tho
and i just checked the schematic and everything that should be grounded, is grounded.
wait so im assuming everything on the commons area of the footswitch should be grounded, so that would be including the tip of both the input/output jacks?
No..
IN & OUT jack SLEEVES should be grounded,,
OK.. just take a look below about grounding points,,
(https://i.imgur.com/aTeiROb.gif)
ik the sleeves should be grounded, im asking about the tip.
Quote from: snow123 on May 02, 2021, 04:18:07 PM
ik the sleeves should be grounded, im asking about the tip.
That's what we are trying to help you with, they shouldn't be grounded but they are being shorted by something. Like we been asking above are you making sure the tips are
not touching the enclosure walls? If the tips touch the walls it shorts signal to ground.
(https://i.postimg.cc/8jqkCZp7/Untitled.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jqkCZp7)
Quote from: snow123 on May 02, 2021, 03:55:44 PM
wait so im assuming everything on the commons area of the footswitch should be grounded, so that would be including the tip of both the input/output jacks?
The middle pins on a switch are only called common, because they are always connected to either the pin above or below.
If the tip of the jack is grounded, the signal will go to ground, meaning no output. Some switching systems ground the circuit input when it's switched off to reduce noise and other issues, they never ground jack tips.
-----------
Are you 100% sure that both of your jacks are functioning as they should be? It is possible to twist them and mess with connections (I've done this once before). As mentioned, there's still a possibility that they are touching the enclosure.
I think you are going around in circles at this stage. I would suggest;
1) desoldering the jacks and stomp switch, test the jacks and switches
2) make sure the circuit actually works, which I don't believe you have done yet
3) redo your off board wiring, and make sure it passes signal when bypassed
4) put it all back together now that you know you have a working circuit, and switching system
oops - accidental post :icon_lol:
ok i dont know if my audio probe was doing anything but while i was testing stuff, the signal just popped, and cut in and out depending on what parts of the circuit and stuff i touched and depending on where i moved things i guess. and now my ears hurt 'cause of the loud popping noises
and i dont have any alligator clips so i tried just soldering a 10nf ceramic cap to a metal alligator clip (that came off of some helping hand thingys) and a breadboard jumper wire to the capacitor
Test your audio probe on something that you know works. Photos of the probe set-up?
Well I just built a new one and here it is
(https://i.postimg.cc/rdZCKfjt/20210502-185808.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdZCKfjt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PL5QXgWj/20210502-185811.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PL5QXgWj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pmZBtWnC/20210502-185823.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmZBtWnC)
So yellow to ground and red to test. Looks fine to me.
ok, when i put the probe on the tip of the input jack the dry signal gets through
and when i probe r3, r5, and r2 my standard dry signal gets through, but when i probe r6 and r7 the gain goes up alot.
and probing r17 gets most of the effect through, i get nothing on r11, r18, and r13, i get a thin sounding signal on r8, and i just get a heavy gain boost on r16
my dry signal gets through on only 1 side of c2. dry signal gets through on c1. c6, c5, c9, and c7 get a minor super fuzz sound, c8 gets most of the effect. c11 got a very loud super fuzz sound through. c10 is very low volume dry signal, and c14 is a very low volume wet signal. and i get nothing when probing c17 and c16.
c13 on one side i get a very loud super fuzz sound but on the other side of it is very low volume
Q1
C= very high gain dry signal
B= very low volume dry signal
E= standard dry signal
Q2
C= nothing
B= higher gain dry signal
E= a little bit of a high octave dry signal
Q3
C= lower gain octave fuzz
B= slightly higher octave dry sig
E= half of the effect
Q4
C= low volume effect
B= lower treble octave fuzz
E= full volume octave fuzz
Q5
C= same as q4
B= same as q4
E= same as q4
Q6
C= nothing
B= low volume super fuzz
E= low volume super fuzz
These are my amps settings btw
(https://i.postimg.cc/SJWrmK7M/20210503-151448.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJWrmK7M)
i got the full effect on d1's cathode and d2's anode but not on the other sides
low gain dry gets through on r1, i get something on 1 side of r33 and nothing on the other side, i get nothing on 1 side of c4 and nothing on the other, i get the full effect on c12, i get the full effect on r24 and r25. i get nothing from r32, r21 makes a low volume effect, probing 1 side of r29 and r31 make a popping sound and the other side just made a low volume octave fuzz go through. i got nothing out of G, 0, 9v, and L and got something from b2, b3, t3, e2, and I. and i got something out of 1 side of r14, r15, and r19 and got nothing out of the other side, and got something from both sides of r20.
FYI while i was moving things around and trying to probe things on the TOP of the PCB the LED turned on and off rapidly and made VERY LOUD popping noises. my ears hurt now
that might be it for the pcb tho
Quote from: snow123 on May 03, 2021, 06:41:06 PM
FYI while i was moving things around and trying to probe things on the TOP of the PCB the LED turned on and off rapidly and made VERY LOUD popping noises. my ears hurt now
This sounds like you have an intermittent short somewhere - which is the worst kind of short....
Quote from: snow123 on May 03, 2021, 06:19:42 PM
i got the full effect on d1's cathode and d2's anode but not on the other sides
The diodes go to ground - this is called hard clipping, and there should not be any signal on one side (the ground side). That's normal.
Post removed - I'm hitting eject on this one. :icon_confused:
Quote from: snow123 on May 03, 2021, 07:52:43 PM
that might be it for the pcb tho
Yeah - how long do you want to keep working on this? If you can afford to start fresh, start fresh. I would order two kits, one being really easy to have a win and get some skills and confidence. The other being another Super Fuzz.
i think i want to keep working on this lol
so if i cant get anything when probing a certain part, does that mean somethings wrong?
i should have also mentioned that i can get my dry signal through when probing about 5 out of the 9 lugs on the footswitch
I am not very experienced with following a signal with a probe.
I think the purpose of the exercise is to follow the signal on the circuit, untill you find the spot where there is a problem (meaning the signal stops going forward). In order to do that, I think we have to start from the input of the pedal, all the way to the output, following the schematics carefully. The document you have to use is the one which has been kindly provided by Antonis on reply #91 page 5 :
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_sc.pdf
I recommend to use an old amplifier at low volume to probe the signal, because there will be a lot of noises. Loud popping noises aren't good for either your ears and your amp's speakers.
well i dont have any old or cheap small amps. the only other amp i have in my house is my dads old 10" rickenbacker combo amp.
Signal path (with relative amplitudes & phase) for audio probing.. :icon_wink:
(https://i.imgur.com/s1ZMk3n.png)
btw im building the modded one with the clipping trimpot and tone knob instead of tone switch so im pretty sure this is the schematic i need:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SJZCKfp9/ggg-superfuzz-sc-mods.png) (https://postimg.cc/SJZCKfp9)
It makes no difference for signal tracing.. :icon_wink:
wait are things that are grounded not supposed make any noise when probed?
I've to admit I'm not sure about "grounded" items anymore.. 8)
One side DC grounded resistive items, like R33, R3, R5, R7 and so, are also AC grounded there so there should be "some" voltage difference on their other side..
One side DC grounded reactive items, like C2, C10 & C13 are also AC grounded on their other side so there shouldn't be any voltage difference (almost) between their sides..
That said, there should be audio signal between R3 upper leg & GND but no signal between C10 possitive leg and GND.. :icon_wink:
grounded as in connected to ground
well i tried improving the solder joints and everything is making popping noises.
Didi you resolder PCB with power on..??
Quote from: snow123 on May 04, 2021, 05:04:36 PM
are things that are grounded not supposed make any noise when probed?
No. The other end of your probe is also ground (I hope), so you can't possibly expect any voltage difference between the probe ends, so no sound.
Here's my soldering btw
(https://i.postimg.cc/bdS27FgZ/20210504-194544.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdS27FgZ)
i did fill in all of the empty holes with some solder to make sure everything there was connected
omg im an idiot. i just realized 2 of the legs on q2 are soldered together LMAO
lol the poppings been fixed
i made a diagram thing of things that did and did not make noise when probed.
green = makes noise when probed
red = does not make noise when probed or lets through a very quiet or weak signal.
(https://i.postimg.cc/LJ1QQMQN/Inked20210505-125438-LI.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LJ1QQMQN)
According to your photo markings, ALL transistor legs exhibit signal where Q2 Collector and Q4 & Q5 Emitters shouldn't..
Wow this has been onging, huh?!
You need to reflow every single solder joint. I suggest getting some flux so you're not just piling on more solder. Make the iron hotter next time if you can.
Here I am. Wondering why there's only 3 spots with no signal :icon_lol:
Orange = red I guess.
You don't have to probe the entire board. Just where the guitar signal travels. Check for guitar signal on the middle pin (base "B") of each transistor. Where it disappears is approximately where the problems are.
The transistors are 2N2222A, correct?
Forgive any ignorance. There's a lot here.
yep im using 2n2222a's.
wait i thought all transistors let the signal through lol. this is how it actually is:
(https://i.postimg.cc/kBTZd0Qb/Inked20210505-125438-1-LI.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBTZd0Qb)
green = signal goes through
red = signal doesnt go through
grey = very, very quiet and weak signal goes through
Did we verify that the transistors have the correct pinout?
im pretty sure yea
I looked up the pinout and got EBC as well as CBE. The transistors in the GGG build document photo are backwards compared to yours.
they're p2n2222a's instead of 2n2222a's.
im using 2n2222a's
What about the note in bold on the first page.
the kit comes with p2n2222as. the p2n2222as are CBE and 2n2222as are EBC.
Can you send me a link to where you had sourced the 2N2222A transistors?
There are photos on google showing mixed info. I'm wondering if the pinout varies between manufacturers. At this point I highly recommend you first hand verify the pinouts.
And again, address the solder joints. Practice makes perfect just don't spend too much time in one spot or you'll lose another pad.
We're twelve pages in. Could we not simply have *tested* the transistor pinouts by now?
Quote from: bluebunny on May 06, 2021, 03:25:25 AM
We're twelve pages in. Could we not simply have *tested* the transistor pinouts by now?
I thought we'd decided on the transistors a few pages back.
please - can we have a photo of the transistors showing the markings on, nice and clear?
2N = metal can, PN = plastic pack.
Quote from: bluebunny on May 06, 2021, 03:25:25 AM
We're twelve pages in. Could we not simply have *tested* the transistor pinouts by now?
We were only eleven pages in just to decide what "grounded item" is..
Those things need their time.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: duck_arse on May 06, 2021, 04:35:27 AM
2N = metal can, PN = plastic pack.
Are you sure all 2Ns are metal can?
(https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1DlUrbeP2gK0jSZFoq6yuIVXaK/231807738/HTB1DlUrbeP2gK0jSZFoq6yuIVXaK.jpg)
There's P2N2222A in plastic as well. I wonder if the full part number isn't printed on the package - similar to a lot of PBFREE stuff I have been seeing. Which is why I'm hoping to find a datasheet on the product page that the OP had used.
This is the page (https://microcontrollerslab.com/2n2222-npn-transistor-pinout-examples-applications-datasheet/) that made me suspect pinout variants between manufacturers.
Shows this image;
(https://i0.wp.com/microcontrollerslab.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/2N2222-pinout-diagram.jpg?resize=768%2C621&ssl=1)
I could be wrong! The web page could be wrong. But it's best to be 100% so we're not chasing our own tail here. I can appreciate that the OP is still going at it!
snow123, here's how we can determine the pinouts with a multimeter. It's best to use one of the spare transitors that you presumably have.
With NPN transistors the forward bias of base to emitter is greater than base to collector.
In diode testing setting, put the black probe to the base lead - we know it's pin two in either variant here. Place the red probe on pin one, record the reading. Now place the red probe on pin 3 and record the reading. The higher reading is the emitter.
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 08:23:26 AM
Quote from: duck_arse on May 06, 2021, 04:35:27 AM
2N = metal can, PN = plastic pack.
Are you sure all 2Ns are metal can?
(https://sc02.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1DlUrbeP2gK0jSZFoq6yuIVXaK/231807738/HTB1DlUrbeP2gK0jSZFoq6yuIVXaK.jpg)
well you got me there - that's a something I've not seen. any idea the manufacturor? do they have a datasheet?
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 08:23:26 AM
There's P2N2222A in plastic as well. I wonder if the full part number isn't printed on the package - similar to a lot of PBFREE stuff I have been seeing. Which is why I'm hoping to find a datasheet on the product page that the OP had used.
but a "P2Nxxxx" is neither a PNxxxx nor a 2Nxxxx, it's a rare and specific type
P2Nxxxx, probably with a Motorola datasheet somewhere setting out why the differences.
back about page 2 is this pic showing those 2N2222A - are they still fitted?
(https://i.postimg.cc/kMvK1sYV/20210330-115912.jpg)
as for the 2N's only being metal cans, well, I don't know what I know anymore.
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 09:41:14 AM
In diode testing setting, put the red probe to the base lead ..
::) ::) >:(
Quote from: antonis on May 06, 2021, 11:06:39 AM
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 09:41:14 AM
In diode testing setting, put the red probe to the base lead ..
::) ::) >:(
Oops :icon_lol: Fixed it.
The guide I was breaking down went from NPN to PNP without much of a notice.
duck_arse;
I can't find a datasheet for the proclaimed CBE, plastic devices. The photo is pretty generic, found on amazon, ebay, walmart, alibaba. Manufacturer shows "unbranded" almost everywhere. So I can't verify my suspicions, only take the lead from other findings on the web. Which could be wrong. But it's a hell of a mistake for an article.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWydxwdX/20210506-104420.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWydxwdX)
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 05, 2021, 11:02:37 PM
Can you send me a link to where you had sourced the 2N2222A transistors?
There are photos on google showing mixed info. I'm wondering if the pinout varies between manufacturers. At this point I highly recommend you first hand verify the pinouts.
And again, address the solder joints. Practice makes perfect just don't spend too much time in one spot or you'll lose another pad.
https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-2N2222-Transistor-Through-2N2222A/dp/B07R4PFTSF/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=2n2222a&qid=1620322958&sr=8-5#customerReviews
pretty sure these are the ones i got
the pedal now lets through a VERY weak signal to the amp. but its only audible when the gain and volume is maxed out. but it doesnt let anything through when turned off
Do you have a multimeter with a diode test function? Try my suggestion on the previous page to verify the pins.
Since they're unbranded there's no way to find the applicable datasheet. So let's be sure we have the pins correctly. Then we move forward!
yes i do have one with a diode tester. and how would i test it? like where do i put the leads and whatnot
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 09:41:14 AMWith NPN transistors the forward bias of base to emitter is greater than base to collector.
In diode testing setting, put the black probe to the base lead - we know it's pin two in either variant here. Place the red probe on pin one, record the reading. Now place the red probe on pin 3 and record the reading. The higher reading is the emitter.
I wrote that trying to follow this
https://www.electricaltechnology.org/2013/03/how-to-remember-direction-of-pnp-and.html
ok i got basically the same results as they got doing what they did in that article
Quote from: snow123 on May 06, 2021, 03:05:23 PM
ok i got basically the same results as they got doing what they did in that article
So what's the verdict?
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 03:52:31 PM
Quote from: snow123 on May 06, 2021, 03:05:23 PM
ok i got basically the same results as they got doing what they did in that article
So what's the verdict?
i guess the ones im using are pnp then.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mnhkq6t9/giphy.gif) (https://postimg.cc/Mnhkq6t9)
Quote from: snow123 on May 06, 2021, 06:01:19 PM
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 03:52:31 PM
Quote from: snow123 on May 06, 2021, 03:05:23 PM
ok i got basically the same results as they got doing what they did in that article
So what's the verdict?
i guess the ones im using are pnp then.
2N2222 transistors are not PNP, they are 100% guaranteed to be NPN.
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 08:48:02 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mnhkq6t9/giphy.gif) (https://postimg.cc/Mnhkq6t9)
Is there room in there for one more?
P2N2222A, on semiconductor,
https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/p2n2222a-d.pdf
I very much suggest playing with your multimeter. Look up YouTube videos if it helps. Measure any parts you have lying around and understand what's what. I went back and seen that your meter has a transistor test function. Work your way to that. Learn about polarity and the basics so folks can help you out more adequately!
I can't tell you how many times I hit a brick wall simply because I didn't understand something. But once I can grasp what it is I'm seeing, better questions start to come to mind and I can communicate better. There's awesome folks here who enjoy helping and will continue to try and steer you in the right direction.
One final suggestion, don't box till it rocks.
QuoteWork your way to that. Learn about polarity and the basics so folks can help you out more adequately!
I think the OP needs to state the problem again. I read over it and get lost in the all the detours.
One other point, the audio probe doesn't necessarily have to produce a signal at every point in the circuit or on every pin of a transistor. How much signal you get depends on the specifics of the circuit.
Quote from: Rob Strand on May 06, 2021, 09:28:09 PM.... https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/p2n2222a-d.pdf ....
Six EBC variants-- are any missing?
(https://i.postimg.cc/CzJhmsKh/TO-266-pins-42.gif) (https://postimg.cc/CzJhmsKh)
QuoteSix EBC variants-- are any missing?
If you stick specifically to the P2N2222A it's only one variant.
but yeah, over the whole family of "2222" devices you have to be careful about the part and package number details.
Quote from: andy-h-h on May 06, 2021, 08:49:32 PM
Quote from: snow123 on May 06, 2021, 06:01:19 PM
Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on May 06, 2021, 03:52:31 PM
Quote from: snow123 on May 06, 2021, 03:05:23 PM
ok i got basically the same results as they got doing what they did in that article
So what's the verdict?
i guess the ones im using are pnp then.
2N2222 transistors are not PNP, they are 100% guaranteed to be NPN.
o. i just saw the thing that said "BC 557 is a PNP Transistor" on the article so i assumed that the ones im using are pnp. my noob-ness is showing alot now
Quote from: Rob Strand on May 06, 2021, 09:40:25 PM
QuoteWork your way to that. Learn about polarity and the basics so folks can help you out more adequately!
I think the OP needs to state the problem again. I read over it and get lost in the all the detours.
One other point, the audio probe doesn't necessarily have to produce a signal at every point in the circuit or on every pin of a transistor. How much signal you get depends on the specifics of the circuit.
the issue is that the pedal cant get a full signal through when turned on ore off rn. at first it would let the dry signal through when off but now it doesnt do that either.
Quote from: snow123 on May 07, 2021, 01:06:20 AM
the issue is that the pedal cant get a full signal through when turned on
Shall we plz proceed to signal trace..?? :icon_mrgreen:
(https://i.imgur.com/inFabXx.jpg)
Quote from: snow123 on May 06, 2021, 01:45:05 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWydxwdX/20210506-104420.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWydxwdX)
from this image and the sellers details on amazoon, I'd say the transistors are what we think they should be, and oriented correctly.
the TO-92 CASE 29
STYLE 1 seems to be the normal plastic 2N series forward package.
the TO-92 CASE 29
STYLE 17 seems to be the reversed pinout as shown on the P2N sheet.
there is reference in old old Fairchild scans of parts with the same (P2N) pinout, but called
FTSO2222, in the TO-236AA/AB package.
it's all a bit trainspottery. I doubt the transistors themselves are the problem here.
yea im still kinda thinking the ceramic cap is some part of the problem
I bet it's the off board wiring, it looks like there could be plenty of cold solder joints and also, if you de-solder a wire you should not re-use it, cut off used end, and strip & tin the wire.
Quote from: aelling on May 07, 2021, 02:14:46 PM
I bet it's the off board wiring, it looks like there could be plenty of cold solder joints and also, if you de-solder a wire you should not re-use it, cut off used end, and strip & tin the wire.
probably yea. they're might be like 2 potential issues on the pcb (probably just a couple of weak solder joints) but i think the main culprits arent on the pcb.
We can easily go up to 100 pages or more without signal trace implementation, can't we..?? :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
It's still not clear what transistors you are using. They seem to be plastic 2N2222A's. I'm in 100% agreement with duck_arse. The plastic package implies a PN2222A or a P2N2222A, those two have opposite pinouts. A plastic package 2N2222A has an ambiguous pinout. If I had to guess I'd probably go with the PN2222A pinout, the same pinout as the 2N3904. That's the way you have wired them up (ie. opposite to the GGG documents; the GGG documents are unclear unless you already know then answer!) The On Semi P2N2222A should be marked with the preceding P on the package but the pics of the device you posted earlier do not show a P.
Let's assume the pinout is correct for now. The signal trace of the PCB shows a signal on the emitter of the last transistor Q6. That means we should be getting some signal out of the unit. But the symptom is we are not. The signal is getting into the board, since the signal trace works, but it's not getting out. Beyond Q6 we only have to pass through C16 to the terminal marked "O" at the top right of the layout,
http://generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_superfuzz_lo.pdf
The best thing to do would be to signal trace each side of C16 and the "O" terminal.
To me it looks like there is a problem with the wiring of the footswitch, or the footswitch itself. The fact you can bypass means the output socket wiring is probably OK. Maybe a photo of those would make it clear [found some, see below]
If you want something to try you can connect the wire from the "O" terminal directly to the output socket "tip". You should hear the signal you are getting on Q6 emitter/C16/"O" terminal on PCB. That would show the PCB is working.
---------------------
EDIT:
I scanned over the thread and the footswitch wiring pic you posted earlier looks OK. The wire going between the "O' PCB terminal and the footswitch is the dark blue wire. The signal is getting lost somewhere between Q6's emitter and the footswitch. Maybe try resoldering C16. You can also use the audio probe around the footswitch wires. if you get a signal on the dark blue wire on the footswitch maybe the problem is the footswitch soldering or the footswitch itself.
i just redid some of the wiring and replaced the led and footswitch
(https://i.postimg.cc/rRGsySJs/20210507-222527.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRGsySJs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/z3TVkrrN/20210507-222516.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3TVkrrN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/75ZhDJTP/20210507-222523.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75ZhDJTP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6ywTjmWv/20210507-222519.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6ywTjmWv)
Quotei just redid some of the wiring and replaced the led and footswitch
So did it work or was it just the same?
Is this a short from the jack tip to sleeve?
It still looks like the tip lugs are touching the enclosure too
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yj3Dj9mz/2-C195792-80-E9-43-A7-B4-E5-7-F69139-BDD77.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yj3Dj9mz)
Potentially another issue here
(https://i.postimg.cc/1nW6hLfw/30634-AC5-6344-4-C8-F-8508-71-C408-E5108-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1nW6hLfw)
and the led wont turn on now lol
wait i have my dc jack wired wrong LMAO. im so dumb
ok i fixed it and the led turns on now
C16 WORKS NOW
HOLY SHIT THE PEDAL WORKS NOW
QuoteHOLY SHIT THE PEDAL WORKS NOW
I don't quite follow what you actually did but it's good news anyway.
i just replaced C16 and it works now
Quote from: snow123 on May 08, 2021, 08:06:59 PM
HOLY SHIT THE PEDAL WORKS NOW
I don't think anyone saw that coming :icon_biggrin:
Quotei just replaced C16 and it works now
Ah, that makes sense.
Good on you for not giving up. Each electronics project you do you get a few scars and that makes life easier later.
ok, now that im done with the build, what do the 2 trimpots do? i know 1 controls the clipping, but what does the other one do?
Quote from: snow123 on May 08, 2021, 09:44:46 PM
ok, now that im done with the build, what do the 2 trimpots do? i know 1 controls the clipping, but what does the other one do?
It adjusts the octave - subtle changes, don't expect anything extreme.
Quote from: andy-h-h on May 08, 2021, 09:50:20 PM
Quote from: snow123 on May 08, 2021, 09:44:46 PM
ok, now that im done with the build, what do the 2 trimpots do? i know 1 controls the clipping, but what does the other one do?
It adjusts the octave - subtle changes, don't expect anything extreme.
ok, thank you.
Quote from: andy-h-h on May 08, 2021, 09:07:45 PM
Quote from: snow123 on May 08, 2021, 08:06:59 PM
HOLY SHIT THE PEDAL WORKS NOW
I don't think anyone saw that coming :icon_biggrin:
I didn't see C16 coming. how are we going to fill another 90 pages, antonis?
if you tune the octave trimmer very, VERY carefully, you should be able to hear a point [actually two points] where the background hiss from the circuit drops quite a bit. this might be the maximum octave point, but it might also be not the best sounding point.
and well done on the fix. what's next build?
Quote from: duck_arse on May 09, 2021, 10:22:35 AM
how are we going to fill another 90 pages, antonis?
Turn this into an astronaut (the other) project? :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: duck_arse on May 09, 2021, 10:22:35 AM
how are we going to fill another 90 pages, antonis?
:icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
We still have two trimpots to deal with, don't we..?? :icon_wink:
also, when im playing through the pedal i get a weird phaser/filter effect in the background. is that normal? or is it cause of some of the mods in the circuit i build?
Quote from: snow123 on May 10, 2021, 06:25:12 PM
also, when im playing through the pedal i get a weird phaser/filter effect in the background. is that normal? or is it cause of some of the mods in the circuit i build?
Keep in mind that this is a pretty intense octave fuzz. As much as I love the Super Fuzz, I don't love it for full chords, cause it doesn't always sound right.
The mods you have don't fundamentally change the circuit. They aren't causing the effect.
Quote from: Rob Strand on May 07, 2021, 07:21:48 PM....plastic package implies a PN2222A or a P2N2222A, those two have opposite pinouts. A plastic package 2N2222A has an ambiguous pinout. If I had to guess I'd probably go with the PN2222A pinout, ....
Quote from: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/372810-pinout-issues-2n2222-pn2222-p2n2222-transistors-post6669099.htmlThe May 2021 issue of QST has a note that some variants of the 2N2222 have varying pinouts.....
QuoteQuote from: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/372810-pinout-issues-2n2222-pn2222-p2n2222-transistors-post6669099.html
Interesting the problem has popped up again.
A common part for a zillion years, now on the brink of extinction, and still uncertainties about the pinouts!
It's a crazy world. Makes you doubt your own sanity when stuff like this come up.
It all made sense until the plastic units marked 2N2222A appeared.