Howdy,
I've seen some sites offering a master volume mod for the EHX POG 2. On my unit for certain settings I do get a fairly large jump in volume. Is a master volume useful on this case or is it better to toggle dry and octaves to tame the jump?
If there is no major drawback to adding the master volume and it just involves a convenience pot, then I think I'm keen to do it.
However, I haven't seen any walk through a online or YouTube. Any one had any idea how to do it?
I modded mine but only for better switches and an off-board DC jack. I wouldn't be surprised if it's just a 100k pot inserted right off the effect return wire that normally goes to the 3PDT. They use ribbon cables so you might have to rewire while you're at it.
Quote from: bean on October 19, 2021, 08:36:44 PM
I modded mine but only for better switches and an off-board DC jack. I wouldn't be surprised if it's just a 100k pot inserted right off the effect return wire that normally goes to the 3PDT. They use ribbon cables so you might have to rewire while you're at it.
Hi madbean! Thanks for the response. Do you think it would be possible to carefully slice the ribbon to pull out the offending wire and splice in a pot? Any idea which ribbon it would be or where to start to look?
Also, for the bypass switch did you create your own PCB for a new switch or just remove all of the solder from each terminal and put in a new switch? I'd like to use the kind of switches that are on the Way Huge pedals like the Aqua Puss -- kind of a "soft" stomp switch. Doesn't have a loud click at all. Any idea what those are?
Quote from: zachlovescoffee on October 21, 2021, 05:37:46 PM
Quote from: bean on October 19, 2021, 08:36:44 PM
I modded mine but only for better switches and an off-board DC jack. I wouldn't be surprised if it's just a 100k pot inserted right off the effect return wire that normally goes to the 3PDT. They use ribbon cables so you might have to rewire while you're at it.
Hi madbean! Thanks for the response. Do you think it would be possible to carefully slice the ribbon to pull out the offending wire and splice in a pot? Any idea which ribbon it would be or where to start to look?
Also, for the bypass switch did you create your own PCB for a new switch or just remove all of the solder from each terminal and put in a new switch? I'd like to use the kind of switches that are on the Way Huge pedals like the Aqua Puss -- kind of a "soft" stomp switch. Doesn't have a loud click at all. Any idea what those are?
I think I desoldered the original 3PDT (which sounded like a canon going off) and used one of the newer lightly actuated ones. I have to look inside to figure out what I did. I'll post back tomorrow.
Ah, I looks like I did take a pic after I did the mods.
So, I left the preset switch as is but replaced the wiring with 2-pin header. I replaced the DC jack because it didn't align properly with the enclosure cut out. And, I replaced the 3PDT with a Gorva. This is basically the same thing: https://lovemyswitches.com/pro-3pdt-latched-foot-switch-solder-lugs-feather-soft-click/
To remove the original I used a heat gun on the switch board then pulled the switch free. The used a desoldering gun to remove all the solder. Then affixed my feather click switch and resoldered. Looks like I did keep the original ribbon cable wiring after all.
To figure out which lug on the switch has effect output, just turn the effect on then use a multimeter with a continuity checker. Put one end on the output jack tip and check each of the lugs of the 3PDT until you get continuity.
Really, if you are replacing the switch at the same time and trying to put in a master volume there's no reason to keep the ribbon wiring. Just replace all the wiring between the two boards. The hardest part is getting the old switch out without damaging anything. That's when a heat gun and desoldering gun really shine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XXc4sdPz/POGmod.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXc4sdPz)
Quote from: bean on October 21, 2021, 07:28:20 PM
Ah, I looks like I did take a pic after I did the mods.
So, I left the preset switch as is but replaced the wiring with 2-pin header. I replaced the DC jack because it didn't align properly with the enclosure cut out. And, I replaced the 3PDT with a Gorva. This is basically the same thing: https://lovemyswitches.com/pro-3pdt-latched-foot-switch-solder-lugs-feather-soft-click/
To remove the original I used a heat gun on the switch board then pulled the switch free. The used a desoldering gun to remove all the solder. Then affixed my feather click switch and resoldered. Looks like I did keep the original ribbon cable wiring after all.
To figure out which lug on the switch has effect output, just turn the effect on then use a multimeter with a continuity checker. Put one end on the output jack tip and check each of the lugs of the 3PDT until you get continuity.
Really, if you are replacing the switch at the same time and trying to put in a master volume there's no reason to keep the ribbon wiring. Just replace all the wiring between the two boards. The hardest part is getting the old switch out without damaging anything. That's when a heat gun and desoldering gun really shine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XXc4sdPz/POGmod.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXc4sdPz)
Thanks bean!
What pot type and value do you think would work best? A100k?
Quote from: zachlovescoffee on October 21, 2021, 11:42:21 PM
Quote from: bean on October 21, 2021, 07:28:20 PM
Ah, I looks like I did take a pic after I did the mods.
So, I left the preset switch as is but replaced the wiring with 2-pin header. I replaced the DC jack because it didn't align properly with the enclosure cut out. And, I replaced the 3PDT with a Gorva. This is basically the same thing: https://lovemyswitches.com/pro-3pdt-latched-foot-switch-solder-lugs-feather-soft-click/
To remove the original I used a heat gun on the switch board then pulled the switch free. The used a desoldering gun to remove all the solder. Then affixed my feather click switch and resoldered. Looks like I did keep the original ribbon cable wiring after all.
To figure out which lug on the switch has effect output, just turn the effect on then use a multimeter with a continuity checker. Put one end on the output jack tip and check each of the lugs of the 3PDT until you get continuity.
Really, if you are replacing the switch at the same time and trying to put in a master volume there's no reason to keep the ribbon wiring. Just replace all the wiring between the two boards. The hardest part is getting the old switch out without damaging anything. That's when a heat gun and desoldering gun really shine.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XXc4sdPz/POGmod.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXc4sdPz)
Thanks bean!
What pot type and value do you think would work best? A100k?
100kA works in most settings. I dug around and it turns out I had a POG2 factory schem. Not sure when or where I found this but there it was. Assuming this is accurate, the master volume would most likely go between R16 and pin7 of the bypass switch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bGkYZKjH/POG2-analog-Thru.gif) (https://postimg.cc/bGkYZKjH)