This is a nice little boost I designed tonite...it uses ideas from several other boosts, is super easy to build, has a low parts count, and most of all, SOUNDS GREAT ! With the gain knob set low, it gives a nice clean boost...with it set higher, it gets a nice overdriven boost !!! I'll probably build some for sale, but you guys can build it yourself and save CASH!!!
I'm not exactly set on the name yet (too close to the Sparkledrive name for my taste, but I had to name it something :) )...but here's the schematic for ya !
enjoy !
Andy
Dragonfly FX
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/770357/56429922-SPARKLEBOOST.gif)
Great! sometimes the simplest thing sound the best, well done :)
Quote from: Alpha579Great! sometimes the simplest thing sound the best, well done :)
...so far i've tested it with a Tele and a Les Paul through both a '56 tweed Fender Harvard and a Egnater TOL50...sounds great through the Harvard, and absolutely AMAZING with the Egnator, which leads me to believe that the booster should work great with Marshall and Vox style amps, as the Egnater is a "little of both" ....
That looks very neat ! cool idea and thanks for sharing :D
Marty. 8)
crp
Thanks AGAIN Torchy !!!!!!!!!!!!
Just breadboarded it myself. For the 1uf, I used a metal-film. I tried subbing a 5457 for the j201, but didn't like it as well- it got a little *trashy* on breakup, and didn't transition as smoothly from clean to dirty. For my purposes it might work just as well to have a switch for hi/lo gain , instead of a pot. Haven't tried any cap swaps yet. Also need to try cascading boosters (AMZ Mosfet/ Fetzer/ Sparkle).
Nice circuit
Kerry M
Quote from: TorchyNot hijacking this thread, but I just put this together and sounds _really_ good with my Tele and Tramp. Low gain settings are cool, but there's a fair bit of kick as you wind it up. Thought others might like a tiny veroboard layout for it ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/veroboard/Dragonfly%20Sparkleboost/Sparkleboost.gif)
I used a 47nF input cap as marked.
THANKS DRAGONFLY :D
SWEET !!! Glad you like it...i
REALLY like this booster a lot....coolest thing i've designed so far, if i do say so myself :)
Awesome vero layout, as usual....
Quote from: MartyMartThat looks very neat ! cool idea and thanks for sharing :D
Marty. 8)
Your welcome :)
Its such a cool sounding boost, and EXTREMELY easy to build....
BTW...i use the NTE458 in mine....breaks up great, especially into a amp thats just on the edge of overdrive.
Quote from: bwanasonicJust breadboarded it myself. For the 1uf, I used a metal-film. I tried subbing a 5457 for the j201, but didn't like it as well- it got a little *trashy* on breakup, and didn't transition as smoothly from clean to dirty. For my purposes it might work just as well to have a switch for hi/lo gain , instead of a pot. Haven't tried any cap swaps yet.
i'm thinking that for a fuller range booster, anywhere from a .068u to a .1u cap on the input should work well...i like the "sparkle" and "cut" that this boost adds quite a bit.
the 5457 wasnt as good, huh ? probably a good thing to make a "mental note" of.
also, you might try using a stomp switch for the boost, that way you can get more versatility out of it.
Quote from: bwanasonic
Also need to try cascading boosters (AMZ Mosfet/ Fetzer/ Sparkle).
Nice circuit
Kerry M
i havent tried that yet, but i thought it would be good for that purpose...all in all, i think that this simple little circuit shows a LOT of potential.
RAWK ON !!!
Is the input cap necessary? Jfet input doesn't 'necessarily' need an input cap, I noticed reducing Cap value on a Jfet booster has a much smaller effect on the HP filter than say with a BJT booster, I think this is because the Jfet gate passes so little current....anyway I use the output cap value as a HP filter adjuster.
Don't 'gospel' this, and correct me if I'm wrong...it's a tentative question posing as a statement.
Quote from: petemooreIs the input cap necessary? Jfet input doesn't 'necessarily' need an input cap, I noticed reducing Cap value on a Jfet booster has a much smaller effect on the HP filter than say with a BJT booster, I think this is because the Jfet gate passes so little current....anyway I use the output cap value as a HP filter adjuster.
Don't 'gospel' this, and correct me if I'm wrong...it's a tentative question posing as a statement.
i'm not sure...i just posted the schemo as "i" built it...i always tend to use some sort of input cap...might just be "habit"...i'll build on with a socketed input and test your theory soon...meanwhile, hopefully Jack or someone more knowledgable than myself will answer your question correctly :)
what i "do" know, however, is i have a new
favorite booster ! :D
Man, you sure stay busy! I still have two or 3 more of your circuits to build. Did you ever get the design finished on the little Cookbook circuit that used the quad op amp (LM324 I think)? My computer at home is belly up, so I didn't get a chance to see if you had finished at the end of the thread, or if you had actually built it to know what it sounded like. I scabbed Tim's Octup Blender on mine.
Quote from: jmusserMan, you sure stay busy! I still have two or 3 more of your circuits to build. Did you ever get the design finished on the little Cookbook circuit that used the quad op amp (LM324 I think)? My computer at home is belly up, so I didn't get a chance to see if you had finished at the end of the thread, or if you had actually built it to know what it sounded like. I scabbed Tim's Octup Blender on mine.
ive finished the "design" of the cooker fuzz, but havent finished the layout...as soon as i finish that, i'm gonna build it and see what tweaking it needs.....
i saw your octup combo...great idea to paste those two circuits together...
as for the Sparkle Boost..i'd suggest moving it up to the front of your "build line"...its easy, inexpensive to make, and sounds absolutely amazing ! i'm not "pulling your chain" on this one...i'm
REALLY proud of this little circuit.
i'll post a couple pics of my Sparkle Boost in a few minutes....
here are a couple of pics of the #2 Sparkle Booster i built (today) ...its not as "neat" of a wiring job as i normally do, but i was in a hurry to finish it...besides, this ones for my "personal" rig :)
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/770357/Sb1.jpg)
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/770357/Sb2.jpg)
Quote from: DragonflyQuote from: petemooreIs the input cap necessary? Jfet input doesn't 'necessarily' need an input cap, I noticed reducing Cap value on a Jfet booster has a much smaller effect on the HP filter than say with a BJT booster, I think this is because the Jfet gate passes so little current....anyway I use the output cap value as a HP filter adjuster.
Don't 'gospel' this, and correct me if I'm wrong...it's a tentative question posing as a statement.
i'm not sure...i just posted the schemo as "i" built it...i always tend to use some sort of input cap...might just be "habit"...i'll build on with a socketed input and test your theory soon...meanwhile, hopefully Jack or someone more knowledgable than myself will answer your question correctly :)
what i "do" know, however, is i have a new favorite booster ! :D
i believe it wouldnt make any difference to the sound, because the high pass filter it creats with the 1M res has a 'knee' of 7.2 hz, well below the range of a guitar... i think thats right , neway.... :?
Not using an input cap may affect things if this effect follows another which leaves some DC in the output. The JEFT will end up mis-biased. Any well designed pedal will not leave DC on the output, but I'm sure there is a box somewhere.... :D
Looks nice. The wiring looks pretty neat to me... 8)
Quote from: Paul MarossyLooks nice. The wiring looks pretty neat to me... 8)
thanks....its just "ok" to me, but i'm REALLY picky.....i like to use old Hiwatt amps as the "ideal" wiring...if youve ever seen those, theyre immaculate inside.
Quote from: Peter SnowbergNot using an input cap may affect things if this effect follows another which leaves some DC in the output. The JEFT will end up mis-biased. Any well designed pedal will not leave DC on the output, but I'm sure there is a box somewhere.... :D
i put the input cap in there more out of "habit" than anything else....its nice to know that theres a good reason for it to be there :)
i thought it sounded great, so i left the pedal exactly as i built it...
Dragonfly-
You've got high standards, I've seen the insides of some of those Hiwatt amps. :wink:
On boosters like this, with a high input impedance, it is not unreasonable to leave it in the signal path all the time.
But what to do about the boost and indicator led? Simple. If the gain setting rheostat yields full gain at zero ohms, then one can use half a DPDT switch to select between full tilt, and whatever the value of the rheostat is, and the other half to turn the indicator LED on. That's what I did to my AMZ-MosFet boost. Works great.
If you want to get finicky, you can use two drive presets and select between them so that you have some basic drive level, and then another drive level on top of that. Wire up two 5k pots as variable resistors, but in series (max series resistance of 10k, in principal, but pots beiong pots it will likely be around 9k). Connect the common of one set of footswitch contacts to the junction between the pots, and use a second switch contact to shunt one of the pots. The unshunted one becomes max boost, and the shunted one becomes an additional resistance that sets default boost amount. Naturally, the two controls will interact, but you'll get some flexibility. You may not even have to use a "level" pot.
wow, dragonfly, that enclosure looks awesome! how did u do that?
Quote from: Dragonflyi put the input cap in there more out of "habit" than anything else....its nice to know that theres a good reason for it to be there :)
i thought it sounded great, so i left the pedal exactly as i built it...
Cool. 8)
Good design "habit". :)
DC blocking is a good thing. :)
Nice build and excellent standards to aspire to Dragonfly! :D
Thanks for posting your booster. 8)
Quote from: Paul MarossyDragonfly-
You've got high standards, I've seen the insides of some of those Hiwatt amps. :wink:
theyre pretty much a "work of art", arent they !
Quote from: Mark HammerOn boosters like this, with a high input impedance, it is not unreasonable to leave it in the signal path all the time.
But what to do about the boost and indicator led? Simple. If the gain setting rheostat yields full gain at zero ohms, then one can use half a DPDT switch to select between full tilt, and whatever the value of the rheostat is, and the other half to turn the indicator LED on. That's what I did to my AMZ-MosFet boost. Works great.
If you want to get finicky, you can use two drive presets and select between them so that you have some basic drive level, and then another drive level on top of that. Wire up two 5k pots as variable resistors, but in series (max series resistance of 10k, in principal, but pots beiong pots it will likely be around 9k). Connect the common of one set of footswitch contacts to the junction between the pots, and use a second switch contact to shunt one of the pots. The unshunted one becomes max boost, and the shunted one becomes an additional resistance that sets default boost amount. Naturally, the two controls will interact, but you'll get some flexibility. You may not even have to use a "level" pot.
see, i just throw stuff together till it works...Mark actually "knows" what he's doing :D
GREAT post Mark, and lots of great info, as usual !
Quote from: Peter SnowbergQuote from: Dragonflyi put the input cap in there more out of "habit" than anything else....its nice to know that theres a good reason for it to be there :)
i thought it sounded great, so i left the pedal exactly as i built it...
Cool. 8)
Good design "habit". :)
DC blocking is a good thing. :)
Nice build and excellent standards to aspire to Dragonfly! :D
Thanks for posting your booster. 8)
posting it is the least i can do...i get so much great info from you guys, and have learned SO much from this forum.
i'm really excited about this booster...for me, and my rig, its the best booster ive heard...and im a bit of a pedal geek ! :)
those old Hiwatts were made by off-duty military EE's, and everything is at right angles, and cut to perfect lenghts...theyre amazing amps to look at, and they sound pretty amazing as well :)
Quote from: Alpha579wow, dragonfly, that enclosure looks awesome! how did u do that?
pretty simple, really...its just a vinyl decal...
ive tried shooting clear over it, and have been fairly successful...its durable, looks cool, and its easy to work with....
just order yourself some printable vinyl decal sheets and youre in business !!!
Thanks for sharing. i'm going to give it a try when I get some parts in.
excellent design. i'm gonna order the parts now. where do you find vero board? i've never seen that before. is this something new? also, do you have any soundclips yet? jmac
Quote from: macula56excellent design. i'm gonna order the parts now. where do you find vero board? i've never seen that before. is this something new? also, do you have any soundclips yet? jmac
iirc, www.futurlec.com has veroboard....
its an EASY build, regardless of whether you perf it or use the vero....
enjoy, and let me know how it turns out !
(BTW...you can use a J201, NTE458, or MPF102 in it...just watch the pinouts....but IMO, the NTE458 sounds best in it...which makes sense, as i designed the circuit around the NTE458...)
enjoy !
:)
andy
dragonfly fx
Quote from: KarmasoundThanks for sharing. i'm going to give it a try when I get some parts in.
let me know how ya like it !!!!
rawk on!
Quote from: TorchyNot hijacking this thread, but I just put this together and sounds _really_ good with my Tele and Tramp. Low gain settings are cool, but there's a fair bit of kick as you wind it up. Thought others might like a tiny veroboard layout for it ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/veroboard/Dragonfly%20Sparkleboost/Sparkleboost.gif)
I used a 47nF input cap as marked.
THANKS DRAGONFLY :D
i just wanted to mention that Torchy's layout appears to be for the J201 fet version...it has the DSG setup...the NTE458 would need to have the legs twisted to work in this layout, as it's DGS
i thought this info might save some headaches :)
crp
If anyone might find it useful, I did a PCB layout of Dragonfly's *Sparkle Boost* for my own use. It's designed to work with the parts I use, so YMMV. Note that I call it *sparkster*, after a character in one of my favorite video games (Rocket Knight Adventures for the Genesis). Hopefully it's free of any embarrasing errors. The tranny is DSG.
(http://home.earthlink.net/~bwanasonic/images/sparkster01.gif)
Thanks Dragonfly! I hope to get mine off the breadboard and into a box soon.
Kerry M
Quote from: bwanasonicIf anyone might find it useful, I did a PCB layout of Dragonfly's *Sparkle Boost* for my own use. It's designed to work with the parts I use, so YMMV. Note that I call it *sparkster*, after a character in one of my favorite video games (Rocket Knight Adventures for the Genesis). Hopefully it's free of any embarrasing errors. The tranny is DSG.
(http://home.earthlink.net/~bwanasonic/images/sparkster01.gif)
Thanks Dragonfly! I hope to get mine off the breadboard and into a box soon.
Kerry M
glad you like it...im really impressed with its tone...im making one for Kyle Cook (Matchbox 20) tonight, and then tomorrow i have to make one for Matt Boyer (Sun Kil Moon) ....its a smokin' booster..
looks like its time to talk to the powdercoaters and get production started :)
Man, you're stuff looks great even on the inside! I've built my stuff in a two circuit fixture that works great for building, but leaves my leads too long. I end up with a rat's nest in there because of it. I guess one of these day's I'll slow up and actually have an enclosure sitting there to build the circuit and dress the wires into like I used to, but it hasn't worked out that way. I have several unpainted housings full of rat's nest circuits. I plan to go back and dress them in sometime though. Since I don't have any warm place to paint these boxes, it'll have to wait until spring, but once I do, you'll have some competition on your enclosures. Not so much from great paint jobs, but from the styling. They're all very unique, and I've spent a lot of time in fabrication.
can anyone make sound-clips of this baby?
it wouldbe appreciated,
Thanks
Quote from: jmusserMan, you're stuff looks great even on the inside! I've built my stuff in a two circuit fixture that works great for building, but leaves my leads too long. I end up with a rat's nest in there because of it. I guess one of these day's I'll slow up and actually have an enclosure sitting there to build the circuit and dress the wires into like I used to, but it hasn't worked out that way. I have several unpainted housings full of rat's nest circuits. I plan to go back and dress them in sometime though. Since I don't have any warm place to paint these boxes, it'll have to wait until spring, but once I do, you'll have some competition on your enclosures. Not so much from great paint jobs, but from the styling. They're all very unique, and I've spent a lot of time in fabrication.
thanks !!! it just takes a little patience...like i said, im not real happy with the inside appearance of the booster...i like this one (below) a bit better, but theres still room for improvement...of course, if youre just building for yourself, it doesnt make nearly as much difference :)
im looking forward to your pics once you get the fx "dressed"... !!!
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/770357/FFinside.JPG)
Quote from: Hailstorm350can anyone make sound-clips of this baby?
it wouldbe appreciated,
Thanks
Keep in mind that boosters in general are very amp dependent, so it makes it hard to have a meaningful clip. It's also the beauty of them, because they form a symbiotic relationship with your amp (or the next effect in the chain). They also work well for both clean and dirty tones. The *Sparkle-Drive* is a very close relative of the Fetzer, with the ability to crank up the *grit-factor* some more. If you have a *vintage-style* tube amp and passive pickups, you should try a bunch of these type circuits to find the one that works best with your setup (and your ears). Not to say they won't work with active pickups and *triple-rectum-fryers*. As a matter of fact I'd be curious to hear reports of how this family of circuits (single-stage discrete boosters) work with a so-called *modern* setup (multi-channel cascaded gain stage amp, active pickups, multiple facial piercings, etc).
Kerry M
Quote from: bwanasonicQuote from: Hailstorm350can anyone make sound-clips of this baby?
it wouldbe appreciated,
Thanks
Keep in mind that boosters in general are very amp dependent, so it makes it hard to have a meaningful clip. It's also the beauty of them, because they form a symbiotic relationship with your amp (or the next effect in the chain). They also work well for both clean and dirty tones. The *SparkleBoost* is a very close relative of the Fetzer, with the ability to crank up the *grit-factor* some more. If you have a *vintage-style* tube amp and passive pickups, you should try a bunch of these type circuits to find the one that works best with your setup (and your ears). Not to say they won't work with active pickups and *triple-rectum-fryers*. As a matter of fact I'd be curious to hear reports of how this family of circuits (single-stage discrete boosters) work with a so-called *modern* setup (multi-channel cascaded gain stage amp, active pickups, multiple facial piercings, etc).
Kerry M
...what "he" said ... :D
Where it says 100K trim, is that a pot, or some kind of special resistor? I'm kinda new to this kind of stuff, but I plan on building your booster as my first build. Also, I see you're using a 3PDT, can I use a 2PDT or even a 1PDT?
On Torchy's layout:Are those + signs for the polarity of the caps? Those red dots inside of the squares outlined with red, are they tracer cuts? Thanks. I really want to build this.
has anyone compared the sparkle drive and the fetzer valve? i wonder if they sound much different, being very close in spec...me thinks the choice of fet will decide the sound more...
Quote from: RjMWhere it says 100K trim, is that a pot, or some kind of special resistor? I'm kinda new to this kind of stuff, but I plan on building your booster as my first build. Also, I see you're using a 3PDT, can I use a 2PDT or even a 1PDT?
On Torchy's layout:Are those + signs for the polarity of the caps? Those red dots inside of the squares outlined with red, are they tracer cuts? Thanks. I really want to build this.
I believe a 100k trim is a little tiny pot
Quote from: RjMWhere it says 100K trim, is that a pot, or some kind of special resistor? I'm kinda new to this kind of stuff, but I plan on building your booster as my first build. Also, I see you're using a 3PDT, can I use a 2PDT or even a 1PDT?
On Torchy's layout:Are those + signs for the polarity of the caps? Those red dots inside of the squares outlined with red, are they tracer cuts? Thanks. I really want to build this.
hi...glad youre interested i building the Sparkle Boost...its a great sounding pedal !
the 100k trim is indeed a trim pot...i used a trim pot in the design instead of a resistor, so that i'd be able to easily "bias" the fet....
yep...you can use a 2pdt or 1pdt...obviously, if you use the 2pdt, you wont be able to use an LED *and* be true bypass (unless you build something like the millenium bypass)...i wouldnt recommend a 1pdt...
torchy's layout.... the + signs are polarity for the caps.... and the red dots inside the squares are indeed trace cuts...
sounds like you should do just fine in this build !
andy
dragonfly fx
Can you show me some super close ups of your PCB in your sparkleboost?
How do attach a DC Jack? And the pots seen as there are three lugs? What are the parts required?
Hey Dragonfly! I have built a simliar circuit for use for active pickups very much like this. Thinking of ditching that project since I didn't care for the sound of active pickups. I like the sound of the circuit and I probably get basically the same tone. Kind of a nice Sabath tone from my setup that sounds too cool. Kind of a blast back to the past. I like it. I might try the fet you got for more gain. A couple of suggestions and one I think you should incorporate. Ditch the 2.2m resistor from input to ground. 1m is good enough, if anything use a single 3m after your input coupling cap. Bypass that 3m with a low value pf ceramic cap. Like around 25pf. May need to adjust to taste. That will kill any rf or noise that will get past the steel box. Trust me, I found out the hard way.
I did see where one guy tried the sparkle and didn't like it for lack of mids. Here's the trick to that. Change the output coupling cap from 1uf to 20uf. Yeah it's excessive but that will allow the full frequency sprectrum through to the amp. Then you can change the input coupling cap to cut bass/treble/mids or add a tone circuit and actually hear the results. The 1uf output coupling cap is only allowing the higher mids to treble frequencies to pass through. The input and output coupling cap go hand in hand. Best to limit at the input and pass all frequencies at the output for more user control. Only limit the frequencies at the output if you know exactly what frequencies you want to amplify or cut in the next stage which we don't need to do here. For some fun, make the input cap on a rotor switch with different caps to dial in and add one .0047uf cap(Old dallas range master trick) for one of the selections. This works great for me. Just my 2cents for the cause. :D
Quote from: DragonflyQuote from: jmusserMan, you sure stay busy! I still have two or 3 more of your circuits to build. Did you ever get the design finished on the little Cookbook circuit that used the quad op amp (LM324 I think)? My computer at home is belly up, so I didn't get a chance to see if you had finished at the end of the thread, or if you had actually built it to know what it sounded like. I scabbed Tim's Octup Blender on mine.
ive finished the "design" of the cooker fuzz, but havent finished the layout...as soon as i finish that, i'm gonna build it and see what tweaking it needs.....
i saw your octup combo...great idea to paste those two circuits together...
as for the Sparkle Boost..i'd suggest moving it up to the front of your "build line"...its easy, inexpensive to make, and sounds absolutely amazing ! i'm not "pulling your chain" on this one...i'm REALLY proud of this little circuit.
i'll post a couple pics of my Sparkle Boost in a few minutes....
I just got the parts for a Sparkle! Going to try it on a breadboard this weekend. Got some diodes laying around - I'm going to try those near the output end...if it works, I may put a switch to go from boost to distortion! :D
Quote from: GreenEyeI just got the parts for a Sparkle! Going to try it on a breadboard this weekend. Got some diodes laying around - I'm going to try those near the output end...if it works, I may put a switch to go from boost to distortion! :D
tell me how it works with the diode clipping ! i would guess that it should sound a bit better than most boosters with a diode pair at the end, simply because you can get some nice controllable crunch from the boost itself, before it gets clipped...
andy
dragonfly fx
After three attempts on the old breadboard, finally got her working. Third time, I didn't use a tranny socket - maybe the pins don't reach their contacts on a breadboard. :?:
The Sparkle sounds real good through my modified Precision Electronics PA with EL84s. I tried 2 diodes after the output cap, and the sound was OK, but then I put 4 in, and BAM - it had a really good distortion. I had to back off on the circuit's gain knob, but once I did, I couldn't put the axe down for many a lick. I think I like this circuit good enough to solder one up with a "distortion" switch. :P
Quote from: GreenEyeAfter three attempts on the old breadboard, finally got her working. Third time, I didn't use a tranny socket - maybe the pins don't reach their contacts on a breadboard. :?:
The Sparkle sounds real good through my modified Precision Electronics PA with EL84s. I tried 2 diodes after the output cap, and the sound was OK, but then I put 4 in, and BAM - it had a really good distortion. I had to back off on the circuit's gain knob, but once I did, I couldn't put the axe down for many a lick. I think I like this circuit good enough to solder one up with a "distortion" switch. :P
sounds very cool....what diodes did you end up using?
and were the 4 diodes in parallel running to ground, or 2 sets of two ?
The diodes were all 1N914. From the negative end of the 1uF cap, I put two back to back that were both "pointing" towards the cap, and after those, two back to back that were both "pointing" towards the ground. I basically followed Aron's "booster to distortion pedal" on his "simple mods" page, and used the second pic with four diodes.
He describes a 50k knob that can be added to blend in the distortion from the diodes (his "softness control") - I'm gonna have to try that...
Quote from: GreenEyeThe diodes were all 1N914. From the negative end of the 1uF cap, I put two back to back that were both "pointing" towards the cap, and after those, two back to back that were both "pointing" towards the ground. I basically followed Aron's "booster to distortion pedal" on his "simple mods" page, and used the second pic with four diodes.
He describes a 50k knob that can be added to blend in the distortion from the diodes (his "softness control") - I'm gonna have to try that...
i thought that might be the case....try doing 2 1n914s on one "strand", and one 1n914 and one 1n34a (or other germanium diode) on the other... :wink:
I am really wowed at how neat and tidy the wiring ends up on these builds. It seems like wiring on mine always ends up as last on the list. By the time I get to the part where it is almost a working circuit I end up cramming everything in to the box. Even though I may start out with the right intentions. Nice build.
Quote from: donald stringerI am really wowed at how neat and tidy the wiring ends up on these builds. It seems like wiring on mine always ends up as last on the list. By the time I get to the part where it is almost a working circuit I end up cramming everything in to the box. Even though I may start out with the right intentions. Nice build.
thanks...ive really been working on it lately...funny thing is that the builds pictured here actually look messy compared to my last two !!! im trying hard to live up to the standard set by the old Hiwatt amps :)
Hey Dragonfly. Nice boost. I built one this weekend and really like it. It replaced my SHO on my board. It works better with Humbuckers than the SHO. I like that fact that it is pretty flat EQ wise. I can't remember what I ended up with for input and output caps but it works well with my rig.
I haven't read through all four pages of posts, but I wanted to add my 2cents.
I built it up a week or so ago and I liked it, but I wasn't as impressed with it through my workbench test amp (a Vox AC1!)
Then I took it downstairs to try it through a Fender Blues Deville 4x10. I LOVED it. It made that amp sound so much better I was starting to wonder why Fender wouldn't build a circuit like that into the input of the amp!
For the record, I have tried j201, 5457 and MPF102 in the circuit, rebiasing for wach one. I think I like the 201 best, but the 5457 sounded very similar to me. The MPF102 needed to be biased at the extreme end of the trimpot and never sounded as powerful.
Roger
Dragonfly, i was just looking @ the schematic, and noticed the 100K res in parrellel with the 100k log pot. was there a reason for this? If your looking for a high pass filter, i dont think it will affect the guitar frequency range, and it will add a strange taper to the pot, so if you must have a parrelleled 50K resistance there, a 50K log pot would be better, and have a smoother action....
Quote from: dosmunHey Dragonfly. Nice boost. I built one this weekend and really like it. It replaced my SHO on my board. It works better with Humbuckers than the SHO. I like that fact that it is pretty flat EQ wise. I can't remember what I ended up with for input and output caps but it works well with my rig.
wow ! i'm flattered ....the SHO is a great sounding boost, so to even have this mentioned in the same sentence is an honor ! that being said, for my needs, the Sparkle is the best sounding boost ive tried....
i'm glad its taken up residence on your board !!!
Quote from: RodgreI haven't read through all four pages of posts, but I wanted to add my 2cents.
I built it up a week or so ago and I liked it, but I wasn't as impressed with it through my workbench test amp (a Vox AC1!)
Then I took it downstairs to try it through a Fender Blues Deville 4x10. I LOVED it. It made that amp sound so much better I was starting to wonder why Fender wouldn't build a circuit like that into the input of the amp!
For the record, I have tried j201, 5457 and MPF102 in the circuit, rebiasing for wach one. I think I like the 201 best, but the 5457 sounded very similar to me. The MPF102 needed to be biased at the extreme end of the trimpot and never sounded as powerful.
Roger
glad its working out for ya....ive had great luck with the sparkle/deville and sparkle/jmp combos ...it kills with an old marshall !
thats good to know about the jfets...ive tried the NTE458 (best IMO...more output, better breakup when turning the gain knob up, but stays nice and clean with the gain knob down)...the j201 (similar to the 458, less output, slightly less mids, to my ears)....and the mpf102 (less output than either, brighter sounding)....i havent tries the 5457, but early reparts say it sounds a bit "trashier" sounding than the 201 when the gain knob is up....
andy
dragonfly fx
Quote from: Alpha579Dragonfly, i was just looking @ the schematic, and noticed the 100K res in parrellel with the 100k log pot. was there a reason for this? If your looking for a high pass filter, i dont think it will affect the guitar frequency range, and it will add a strange taper to the pot, so if you must have a parrelleled 50K resistance there, a 50K log pot would be better, and have a smoother action....
i havent noticed any "strange taper" to the volume pot, and havent heard any build reports mentioning it....but its worth a try, and i think i have a couple 50k pots handy....
one thing i would suggest for future builds, however, is running a 2k resistor to ground from the gain pot lug 1....the 5k pot, as it stands, has quite a bit of "clean" travel before it starts to breakup, and this should help make the taper a bit smoother and more usable...
Quote from: Dragonflyone thing i would suggest for future builds, however, is running a 2k resistor to ground from the gain pot lug 1....the 5k pot, as it stands, has quite a bit of "clean" travel before it starts to breakup, and this should help make the taper a bit smoother and more usable...
A 25kΩ linear pot in parallel with a 6.2kΩ resistor will work nicely to a give 5kΩ range of resistance with a reverse-audio taper:
(http://users.sdsc.edu/~jon/sights/reverseAudio.png)
RED: linear
GREEN: reverse-log
BLUE: 25kΩ pot || 6.2kΩ resistor
See me struggle to realize this in another thread (http://www.diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=26394).
I built a sparkle boost last night out of components I already had and couldn't get any output on my test rig. Then I noticed that the earth wire wasn't connected and nearly blew out my eardrums with the headphones! :shock: This is LOUD and bright. Now I have to find something to house it in.
Col
Quote from: colI built a sparkle boost last night out of components I already had and couldn't get any output on my test rig. Then I noticed that the earth wire wasn't connected and nearly blew out my eardrums with the headphones! :shock: This is LOUD and bright. Now I have to find something to house it in.
Col
:D
If anyone feels so inclined, drop in a 0.47uF tantalum capacitor for the input cap....I just did and I swear I heard some magic going on.
Best diode combos after the output cap: 2 germaniums & 1 silicon. Two red LEDs rocks too.
Quote from: GreenEyeIf anyone feels so inclined, drop in a 0.47uF tantalum capacitor for the input cap....I just did and I swear I heard some magic going on.
Best diode combos after the output cap: 2 germaniums & 1 silicon. Two red LEDs rocks too.
cool, it wont do anything to the frequency resonse, but perhaps this is one of the few circuits tants sound really good in... :)
Could I sub the 1M for a 2.4M? Would it still sound good?
Yes, it's fine.
Would someone be so kind as to post a PCB layout with all of Dragonflys parts for the original? I see the Sparkster one, but I don't know exactly what goes where. ANd the other one that is all colorful doesn't show what connects to what.
(sorry, I am a total newb) :P
Quote from: OutlawsWould someone be so kind as to post a PCB layout with all of Dragonflys parts for the original? I see the Sparkster one, but I don't know exactly what goes where. ANd the other one that is all colorful doesn't show what connects to what.
(sorry, I am a total newb) :P
heres a perf layout for the DGS version./....
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/770357/SPARKLEBOOSTPERF.gif)
Quote from: DragonflyQuote from: OutlawsWould someone be so kind as to post a PCB layout with all of Dragonflys parts for the original? I see the Sparkster one, but I don't know exactly what goes where. ANd the other one that is all colorful doesn't show what connects to what.
(sorry, I am a total newb) :P
heres a perf layout for the DGS version./....
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/770357/SPARKLEBOOSTPERF.gif)
You are my hero.
Thank you.
By the way, while I haven't looked very much, 2K7 isn't the same as 2.7K, is it?
Quote from: OutlawsQuote from: DragonflyQuote from: OutlawsWould someone be so kind as to post a PCB layout with all of Dragonflys parts for the original? I see the Sparkster one, but I don't know exactly what goes where. ANd the other one that is all colorful doesn't show what connects to what.
(sorry, I am a total newb) :P
heres a perf layout for the DGS version./....
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-7/770357/SPARKLEBOOSTPERF.gif)
You are my hero.
Thank you.
By the way, while I haven't looked very much, 2K7 isn't the same as 2.7K, is it?
2K7 is indeed the same as 2.7K.
Quote from: Outlaws
You are my hero.
Thank you.
By the way, while I haven't looked very much, 2K7 isn't the same as 2.7K, is it?
yep....
btw....ive found its easier to connect my grounds through the board...
in other words, where the perboard has the blue "ground wire along the bottom, run a wire from lug 2 of the output jack to it....a wire from lug 3 of the input jack to it....a wire from the "center" pole of the 3pdt switch to it....a wire from the dc jack "ground" to it...lugs 1/2 of the 5k pot to it...and finally, lug 1 of the 100k pot to it.
it makes everything neater and easier to deal with, not to mention that its easier to trace your grounds and make sure there are no issues...
if you need a diagram, i can probably draw on up.....just lemme know...
andy
dragonfly fx
Quote from: Dragonfly
btw....ive found its easier to connect my grounds through the board...
in other words, where the perboard has the blue "ground wire along the bottom, run a wire from lug 2 of the output jack to it....a wire from lug 3 of the input jack to it....a wire from the "center" pole of the 3pdt switch to it....a wire from the dc jack "ground" to it...lugs 1/2 of the 5k pot to it...and finally, lug 1 of the 100k pot to it.
The alternative (which I prefer) is to ground everything to a jack and only run ground wires from the jacks to the board. This is kind of the *Tonepad* style that I've adopted.
Kerry M
Quote from: bwanasonicThe alternative (which I prefer) is to ground everything to a jack and only run ground wires from the jacks to the board. This is kind of the *Tonepad* style that I've adopted.
Kerry M
So far that is how I have been doing it too.
Quick question on adding a SPST toggle switch into the connection between the batter ground and the TRS input ground. That would effectively kill my ground and kill the battery for me without unplugging the intrument correct? Then I can also still just unplug the instrument and kill the battery too?
Just looking for a double fail safe because I have a horrid tendancy to leave pedals plugged in since I hate unplugging my guitar.
Quote from: Outlaws
Just looking for a double fail safe because I have a horrid tendancy to leave pedals plugged in since I hate unplugging my guitar.
For me, the best treatment for this is to use a power supply. I wonder how feasible it would be to have an auto-off function in a stompbox? After an set interval of no signal, it shuts off.
Kerry M
ok so there are a few different items at Radio shack that I purchased today. I haven't opened them yet so I can take them back.
So far this is what I got. Please let me know if something won't work. lol
Caps.
10uF 35v
1uF Electrolytic cap 50v
.022 Polyester-Film cap - Radial leads - 50WVDC max
Trimmer.
100k Micro-sized Potentiometer - 50VDC - 0.1W
They didn't hjave many of the resistors except the 100k ones. I already have the 1M, so I am good there.
For the 2.7k resistors, would 4.7k work? I already have 4.7k lol. Call me cheap. :lol: (But seriously, would I notice a difference?)
Still need the 2.2M, the Tranny, and the pots.
So is the rule that (within reasonable amounts) you can go over the value, but not under?
Also, what would be the best way to rig a "pedal is using power" LED from both the battery and/or the AC adaptor? I want the LED to be on full time when it is using power. I will still have a different color LED for the effect on/off.
Also I wonder the best way to rig a SPST toggle to effectly kill the power from both the battery and the AC adaptor?
The AC adaptor isn't ground to the wall, so if I rig the round from it into the ground from the battery, and send those to my SPST switch that will control the on/off power function for the pedal for both sources. Correct?
Quote from: Outlawsok so there are a few different items at Radio shack that I purchased today. I haven't opened them yet so I can take them back.
So far this is what I got. Please let me know if something won't work. lol
Caps.
10uF 35v
1uF Electrolytic cap 50v
.022 Polyester-Film cap - Radial leads - 50WVDC max
Trimmer.
100k Micro-sized Potentiometer - 50VDC - 0.1W
They didn't hjave many of the resistors except the 100k ones. I already have the 1M, so I am good there.
For the 2.7k resistors, would 4.7k work? I already have 4.7k lol. Call me cheap. :lol: (But seriously, would I notice a difference?)
Still need the 2.2M, the Tranny, and the pots.
So is the rule that (within reasonable amounts) you can go over the value, but not under?
Anyone?
The 1uF is non-polorized. Is that a problem?
Quote from: OutlawsQuote from: Outlawsok so there are a few different items at Radio shack that I purchased today. I haven't opened them yet so I can take them back.
So far this is what I got. Please let me know if something won't work. lol
Caps.
10uF 35v
1uF Electrolytic cap 50v
.022 Polyester-Film cap - Radial leads - 50WVDC max
Trimmer.
100k Micro-sized Potentiometer - 50VDC - 0.1W
They didn't hjave many of the resistors except the 100k ones. I already have the 1M, so I am good there.
For the 2.7k resistors, would 4.7k work? I already have 4.7k lol. Call me cheap. :lol: (But seriously, would I notice a difference?)
Still need the 2.2M, the Tranny, and the pots.
So is the rule that (within reasonable amounts) you can go over the value, but not under?
Anyone?
The 1uF is non-polorized. Is that a problem?
looks ok...im not sure if a 4k7 resistor would hinder your ability to bias the fet, but it should be ok.
non polarized is fine as well :)
Just fired an SB up at rehearsal, and everyone loved it! Guitarist one played a Dean flying V through a Fender Deluxe tube, and guitarist two played it with his Amer Tele deluxe through a fender reverb -- it sounded great everywhere! I was impressed how the gain impact is "subtle" -- don't know how else to describe it, but it just puts a different color and edge on the sound that doesn't change it so drastically as to be a different sound all together...awesome. Thanks Dragonfly!!!
ltt
Well, my conversion from breadboard to perf was a huge success! I hope to post pics and sound clips soon. I can't see not having clipping diodes at the end of the circuit - it really works well, and I'll probably always keep one or the other "on." It will be interesting to see if I can capture the different subtle tonalities of my toggles in the sound clips.
This was my not my first build, however, it was my first build where I used toggles successfully, my first build in which I soldered the offboard stuff inside the box instead of splayed out all over the place, my first major (some may not think they were that major) tweaks to a circuit, and my first solder-up with only one small problem that I solved in like 5 minutes (see below).
When I first fired it up, I had forgotten to run a ground line from the drive pot. This still produced sound, but rendered my toggles and gain pot useless. I was afraid at first it was something on the board - and as my pics will show - I would have had a nightmare reaching my board under all the wires I placed over it. I've got to stop burying my boards like that. I'm with Marty on having more room in boxes from now on.
If anyone hates goofing with LED grommets like me - just put a piece of black electrical tape on the inside of the case over the hole, and poke through it with something. Then just squeeze the led up to its hilt through the hole. Both the tackiness of the tape and the wedging effect really holds the LED in place well. You just need to watch the diameter of the LED hole so it will be a tight fit.
Quote from: lethargytartareJust fired an SB up at rehearsal, and everyone loved it! Guitarist one played a Dean flying V through a Fender Deluxe tube, and guitarist two played it with his Amer Tele deluxe through a fender reverb -- it sounded great everywhere! I was impressed how the gain impact is "subtle" -- don't know how else to describe it, but it just puts a different color and edge on the sound that doesn't change it so drastically as to be a different sound all together...awesome. Thanks Dragonfly!!!
ltt
youre welcome !!! it seems to be a big "hit" everywhere...its such an easy circuit, but sometimes those are the best !
i agree about the gain pot...adds a bit more "teeth" to it, and subtly changes the coloration of the boost...
thats awesome that its working out with all those rigs !
andy
dragonfly fx
Quote from: GreenEyeWell, my conversion from breadboard to perf was a huge success! I hope to post pics and sound clips soon. I can't see not having clipping diodes at the end of the circuit - it really works well, and I'll probably always keep one or the other "on." It will be interesting to see if I can capture the different subtle tonalities of my toggles in the sound clips.
This was my not my first build, however, it was my first build where I used toggles successfully, my first build in which I soldered the offboard stuff inside the box instead of splayed out all over the place, my first major (some may not think they were that major) tweaks to a circuit, and my first solder-up with only one small problem that I solved in like 5 minutes (see below).
When I first fired it up, I had forgotten to run a ground line from the drive pot. This still produced sound, but rendered my toggles and gain pot useless. I was afraid at first it was something on the board - and as my pics will show - I would have had a nightmare reaching my board under all the wires I placed over it. I've got to stop burying my boards like that. I'm with Marty on having more room in boxes from now on.
If anyone hates goofing with LED grommets like me - just put a piece of black electrical tape on the inside of the case over the hole, and poke through it with something. Then just squeeze the led up to its hilt through the hole. Both the tackiness of the tape and the wedging effect really holds the LED in place well. You just need to watch the diameter of the LED hole so it will be a tight fit.
i cant wait to hear those clips bro ! i have the feeling those clipping diodes will really increase the versatility of the the Sparkle Boost, and get it nicely into "overdrive" territory.
nice trick with the led!
andy
dragonfly fx
jeez, 6 pages on a simple single stage J-fet booster :o has anyone compared the fetzer valve to this?
Quote from: Alpha579jeez, 6 pages on a simple single stage J-fet booster :o
simplicity is often best..... :D
Quote from: Alpha579
has anyone compared the fetzer valve to this?
talk to martymart...i think he's built both, and could compare....
Yeah, prelim results here show the Sparkle Distorts more.
Again, tonight, I can say I think i'VE built every Jfet Booster.
Mini Booster [kind of in a differnt class, uses two Q's] High output.
Stratoblaster...pretty clean boost
Fetzer...Fendery sounding more output than Strato
Sparkle...More Gainy sound, In the Boost / OD dept. I think. Yupp real nice, with all the talk of the SB, I couldn't hold off, first build in a couple months...good one !!!
Only tried on the 'Lil' Lab' Tube Amp [RCA Victor]...should be great on the big one though.
Quote from: petemooreYeah, prelim results here show the Sparkle Distorts more.
Again, tonight, I can say I think i'VE built every Jfet Booster.
Mini Booster [kind of in a differnt class, uses two Q's] High output.
Stratoblaster...pretty clean boost
Fetzer...Fendery sounding more output than Strato
Sparkle...More Gainy sound, In the Boost / OD dept. I think. Yupp real nice, with all the talk of the SB, I couldn't hold off, first build in a couple months...good one !!!
Only tried on the 'Lil' Lab' Tube Amp [RCA Victor]...should be great on the big one though.
nice !!! thanks for the comparisons...its interesting to see what the differences is the "sound" of seemingly similar circuits are...
the question a few people have asked is how the fetzer and the sparkle compare to each other...i guess i should build a fetzer sometime soon and find out for myself :)
Sounds to me like the Sparkle has greater internal distortion of the Jfet, I happen to like Jfet 'n Amp distortion characteristics.
Just an in-the-field update -- we played out Saturday (Drivin' South (http://www.drivinsouth.com/main.php)), and my guitarist had the SB I made for him in his rig. He uses it through long portions of the set and is quite happy with it!
Cheers!
ltt
Quote from: lethargytartareJust an in-the-field update -- we played out Saturday (Drivin' South (http://www.drivinsouth.com/main.php)), and my guitarist had the SB I made for him in his rig. He uses it through long portions of the set and is quite happy with it!
Cheers!
ltt
nice ! glad its working out for ya....wasnt he the one using a SHO prior to this ?
on the layout, what is the grayish/silver thing. as you can tell I am new to this. and also what is a "tranny"
thanks
crp
thanks for the help, I appreciate it
K...Got her boxed up and installed with switch !!!
Plugged HB pickup into SB then MkII "n 4 x 12'' GB speaks...
WOW...What A great sound !!!
Excellent performance !!! Played that for quite some time, Very Happy !!
Quote from: petemooreK...Got her boxed up and installed with switch !!!
Plugged HB pickup into SB then MkII "n 4 x 12'' GB speaks...
WOW...What A great sound !!!
Excellent performance !!! Played that for quite some time, Very Happy !!
thanks ! i hope it gets LOTS of use at your place Pete....
i'm
really proud of this circuit....it absolutely
kills with Marshalls ! :)
andy
dragonfly fx
I was unable to view the schematic. Does anybody have a copy?
Quote from: seanmI was unable to view the schematic. Does anybody have a copy?
use the "search" function on this forum...its in the thread "weekend builds sparkle boost schematic" ....
andy
dragonfly fx
Actually my other guitarist (dean player) uses the SHO -- I let him play the SB for a while, but I built it for the guy who has it now (tele player). Dean-player gave it rave reviews as well...
Quote from: DragonflyQuote from: lethargytartareJust an in-the-field update -- we played out Saturday (Drivin' South (http://www.drivinsouth.com/main.php)), and my guitarist had the SB I made for him in his rig. He uses it through long portions of the set and is quite happy with it!
Cheers!
ltt
nice ! glad its working out for ya....wasnt he the one using a SHO prior to this ?
Well, since this thread got bumped, and i hve the chance to push it onto the 100 mark ( :twisted: ) just thought i'd mention my experience.
The circuit quieted my signal down... i was using a J201 instead of the recommended NTE458 (i live too far from an NTE carrying shop, and i can't stand waiting for mail!) Anyone have a similar issue?
The two knobs on the SB, are very useful...I'm running it into a 50w MkII head> 4 x 12's...I can get it to go very close to my other Jfet boosters tones, but also get 'distortedge' from it.
1 Jfet and a couple knobs later [plusa few board parts] and the SB schematic...put a big :) on MY head !!!
crp
Is there a schematic of the Sparkleboost posted somewhere?
Quote from: DragonflyQuote from: seanmI was unable to view the schematic. Does anybody have a copy?
use the "search" function on this forum...its in the thread "weekend builds sparkle boost schematic" ....
andy
dragonfly fx
need a schematic ? look a few posts up ! :D
andy
http://www.diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=30083
k why do no schematics links work for this?
Schematic and veroboard layout - http://www.indyguitarist.com/torchy/Boosters/Dragonfly%20Boost/
I prefer this boost over all others I've tried. I even put it head to head against the $300 Ulbrick Megalodon and I still prefer the SparkleBoost.
Quote from: Ben- on August 05, 2008, 10:55:25 PM
k why do no schematics links work for this?
OLD thread, thats why. :)
You can look in my layout gallery. I think I have the schematic in there and possibly a layout or two.
k thx guys