DIYstompboxes.com

I have a korg dt-10 tuner.  
The reason I ask is because when in "tune" there is a green LED, when your not the LED's are all red.  I wanted to change the very last RED LED on each side of pedal.  Because when your in a dark stage or the likes,
and you are tuning down a 1/4 step,(down to last LED before it changes to lower pitch display) you can't tell if you are on the last LED or not.  They blur together.  I wanted to change the last LED to yellow or something so i could distinguish it from the other Red LEDs.  

hey guys,
I managed to remove each RED LED from each side without damaging anything.  They are 3mm LEDS but not like a normal 3mmLED.  I want to replace them with a yellow or green LED,  The problem is normal LEDs wont fit since they have a little ridge on the plastic body.In this pedal, that ridge stops it from being inserted into the plastic sockets they have in the board. THe plastic socket is NOT capable of being removed since the rest of the LEDs are attached to it, and it is also part of the display.

So my reason for post is:
Anybody know where i could get a 3mm LED with out that ridge on the plastic body?  The LEDs i removed from the tuner have no "lip" or "ridge" on the lense of the LED.
I have (2) yellow 3mm LEDs from smallbear that i was gonna use but, they have that lip on them.(just like every LED i have seen)  I tried sanding the lip off, but no success, seems like it would take forever to do anyway.  I was thinking about hitting it with a power sander but the thing is so small that it would be impossible!

thanks for your help,...  :icon_wink:

PS:If anybody as a phone number to KORG that would be helpful since maybe i could ask them for (2) green LEDs.  I can't find a KORG telephone number for the United States of America.  ???

here is a pic.  :icon_wink:

http://korg.com/gear/enlarge_product.asp?prid=DT10

I have the same tuner and you're idea is something I'm very interested in. I'm sure that if Korg was able to find ridgless LED's, we should be able to find them too. My local has a large selection of LED's so, the next time I'm there, I have a looky loo :icon_wink:
B.

Sounds like a good idea though I've not really had much problem with distinguishing the leds.  I've already modded mine for true bypass.   Do you have a Dremel?  It seems like it wouldn't be too tough sanding down the rim with a sanding drum.

QuoteI've already modded mine for true bypass.

Did you mod the Korg DT-10 pedal tuner for true bypass or a different tuner? I just recently(literally a few days ago) built a true bypass looper box so that i could bypass the tuner's buffered out and inputs so that it wouldb't affect the tone of my other pedals in the signal chain.  I would be really interested in truebypassing the KORG DT-10 Tuner if you did it.  ;D

QuoteMy local has a large selection of LED's so, the next time I'm there, I have a looky loo

Thanks,  :icon_wink:

Yeah, it's the DT-10, here's a pic:

(http://homepage.mac.com/sonicvi/dt10.jpg)

Since the DT-10 is all SMT components on the main pcb I couldn't really mod it to be on all the time so I put a momentary SPST in the Bypass output hole which I never used and just hit it after I set up to turn it on. You have to use enclosed jacks since open ones won't fit.

cool thanks, that is a good solution, i don't use the other output jack anyway.  :icon_biggrin:

I gotta go check mine out, i think mine looks different inside, might be my memory though,  :icon_lol: 

Quotehit it after I set up to turn it on

You mean you hit the added SPST to turn it on, then use the other switch(3PDT) to turn it on and off from there?

yeah i wish it wasn't those SMT components,  :icon_evil:

HOw did you figure out how to do this mod the way you did, i have to do this, it would be way easier than using the looper box, and would also save some real estate on the pedalboard, and one more pedal that doesn't need to be powered.  ;D

Yeah, the spst is to turn the tuner on and footswitch selects between the tuner and bypass.   I just figured it out myself how to do it.  Basically all you do is remove the jacks from the board and rewire them as if they were offboard connections instead, inserting the foorswitch just like any other pedal. You can figure out the wiring by determining how the tabs on the jacks were soldered into the board, ie: the input tip, sleeve, ring, output tip and ring, and then use those pads for wires. If you understand how jacks and bypassing works I'm sure you can figure it out. I can take some more photos and maybe make a sketch of what goes where if you get stuck. Just PM in that case.

yeah i think i could figure it out then, if not i might PM in the future for some minor help  on something,thanks.  ;D

I just happen to have a mono and stereo closed switchcraft jacks, that i thought i'd never use.  :icon_biggrin:

yo sonic VI:

I happen to have two switchcraft closed jacks but they seem to be too big, the sleeve, ring, and tip are very close to the greenie cap and electrocap,(input jack) the mono jack(out) seems like there is room, but i think the battery compartment is in the way.(don't know yet)

In the picture you posted, What kind of closed jacks are they? I don't see them as being the same as mine.

1.So my first steps would be to remove/unsolder the 3 jacks from the board.
2.Remove the switch and that little board.
3.solder wires from the pads of the cicuit board to the 2 jacks(in and out)
4.THen mount the 3pdt and spst to enclosure, then wire them up respectively.(

I understand the method of it, i think,
i will take it apart and remove the jacks and switch,
and see from there
i understand bypassing, but confused in this pedal,  ???

If you could draw up a wiring diagram and/or instructions i would gladly pay you some money for your time and help.

THe part that i am confused on is the circuit board, if i run wires to the jacks from the board as if they were offboard connections,(<<<i understand that) then where do i send the wires from the 3PDT switch? I understand how to wire a 3PDT, i have done it many times, but it seems confusing in this pedal for some reason.

thanks....

Actually, I used one of the jacks from the tuner but just turned it on its side so the tabs were parallel to the pcb rather that sticking down into it. I couldn't use the other one becasue it was too wide to turn on its side so I think I found an encloded jack that has the tabs facing down instead of out of the end like I'm guessing you have. The only problem I had with space was with the bottom on the box, I had to insulate the tabs from the case.  Anyway, you can figure out which pad is which from studying the jacks, use a meter fto test continuity in case you can't tell just by looking  I do think I had a little confusion on the input jack becasue there were 4 tabs on the jack but I think only three were actually connected to anything anf the other was just soldered to a pad that wasn't connected to anything.  Look at it this way. Imagine that you're just elongating the tabs on the jacks so that they still fit into the pads on the pcb but you're elongating them with wires.  Look at it that way and it becomes more apparent how you should splice in the switch. Basically you're going to split the wires running from the  tips of the jacks to their respective pads and run the new ends where you split those wires to the footswitch. Does that make any sense?   .   I'll try to get some more photos and a sketch made up this evening.

yeah it  more sense now,

i think that inputjack with the 4th lug is a NC lug or something,

QuoteBasically you're going to split the wires running from the  tips of the jacks to their respective pads and run the new ends where you split those wires  to the footswitch. Does that make any sense?

What do you mean split the wires and run their new ends to the footswitch?


i understand more about the wiring when you said to look how they were put into the pcb board,  i run a wire/s to the board and connect the input and output jack to board via wires instead of soldering them directly to board. but what do you mean when you say split the wires in the above quote?

>>Do you mean to run a wire from the pad of circuit board to the 3pdt switch?  So in essence i am soldering the jacks to the board via wires instead of directly to board, then running a few more wires in the respective places from the 3PDT switch to board.
(i don't think this is what i am supposed to do, becuase if i was doing that i shouldn't of had to remove the jacks in the first place. So i must be wrong)

Quotethink I found an encloded jack that has the tabs facing down instead of out of the end like I'm guessing you have

I might be able to bend the tabs up instead of out of the end like my switchcraft jack has...


I removed all three jacks perfectly, no damage,  :icon_biggrin:
Gonna go remove the existing stomp switch now...  **edit**<<<<removed the switch>>>>>>>

thanks again for your time, help, etc...  :icon_wink:

I mean, if you didn't have a footswitch in there you'd run the wires from the tip tabs directly to the input/output pads on the pcb. If you had it this way you would split those two wires so that there were now 4 wires and the free ends of those wires would go to the footswitch.
Here's a very crude illustrator drawing:
(http://homepage.mac.com/sonicvi/dtill.jpg)

Also, since the pcb with the jacks was supported by the jacks and the footswitch bracket and now is not you're going to need to find a way to support that board to keep the dc jack and the little pushbuttons in their holes and to keep the two pcbs from touching. I used silicon adhesive and put globs around the jacks and a big glob between the boards to keep them apart. You can see the goo in the photo above. There's probably a better way. I tried a plastic pcb standoff between the boards but it was just a tad to tall for comfort.

QuoteHere's a very crude illustrator drawing:

heck no that is a great drawing, i think i got it now,  thanks a bunch, i really appreciate this help, and i am very happy i am finally able to have my tuner in the signal chain without annoying loopboxes and such,   :icon_biggrin:

I have to pickup one of those SPST momentary switches, anyone in particular i should get?
Where did you get your SPST switch?  does radio shack sell a reliable one?  I will have to check this evening...

Is there a risk of the  silicon adhesive damaging anything?(those small SMT parts)

from looking at the picture i assume you reused the output jack?

Yes I believe it was the outpt jack I reused.  Any momentary switch that fits the hole will work. It doesn't even have to be a pushbutton,  a toggle would work too.  I got mine at a local parts outlet but I'm sure Radio Shack has something you could use. Just make sure it's a normally open switch. I don't think the silicon will harm anything. Fulltone puts that stuff all over their pedals. It won't come off easily though excpet if you want to cut through it to get the boards apart in case you want to reverse the mod or something. 

I got both the switchcraft closed jacks to fit!  Barely but they do fit, and they are not pushing to hard against the circuit board. Just barely touching.  :D

remember that metal piece that held the old footswitch and also screwed to the circuit board, well obviously it won't fit with a 3PDT switch, so i took pliers and cut it until there was barely enough metal to just reach under the 3PDT switch on one side. Then  i mounted the jacks, and pushed the metal piece under the board and put the other side of the metal piece under the 3PDT switch.  When i tightened the 3PDT to the enclosure, it held the metal piece tight against the inside.  THen i put that little screw i took out when i disassembled it through the pc board and through the metal piece and tightened it.  It just barely doesn't hit a component underneath on the other pc board,(think it is an opamp)  THe pc boards dont move anywhere. THe 3PDT won't come loose because it has that ridge in the enclosure that stops it from spinning. 

there is just enough room so that the pc boards don't touch each other and ground out! i measured about a 1/4inch of space.

I now have to get a SPST switch, (maybe a mini toggle switch, since then i could flip it one way so that it is always on andjust  always leave it there,) I still have to wire it up and see if the wires fit between the two pc boards. (<<<shouldn't be a problem)

First though i have to install those yellow LEDs i have been looking for, then i could solder/wire everything up.  :D

**EDIT*** the stereo input switchcraft jack>>> i had to bend the lugs a milimeter away from the greenie cap and electro cap, just for precaution.  And i still might stick a very thin piece of foam between the pc boards just for reassurance.

did you have any trouble getting the SPST switch to mount in the existing hole in the enclosure where the bypass jack used to be?   ???

The switch I used needed a 1/4" hole so it wa a little bit small so I just used flat washers on the inside and outside and it's holding fine. There was  no problem with space lengthwise.

I found a few switches, some are SPST on/on  and some are on/off.
here is one smallbear sells:

Switch - SPDT Toggle Mountain Sw 10TC410
(On-On) Sub-miniature, high-quality panel mount for power and control switching.
PRICE: $1.80     Shipping Wt. 0.11 oz

would that work?  it is a SPDT NOT a SPST though... BUt couldn't i wire the SPDT switch to no matter where it is switched the pedal will always be on?

I am confused about what the SPST switch is doing.  Instead of sending wires from those two holes in the bottom left corner of the pc board to the SPST switch, couldn't i just  jumper the two holes or something?

I will ALWAYS be using a power jack, i never ever use batteries in the tuner. Wouldn't jumpering the two holes make the pedal always be on then i could just (true) bypass it by stepping on the 3PDT switch? Or am i thinking unclearly.  :icon_rolleyes:

thanks again...

No you couldn't do that because the switching is electronic, not mechanical. Each time the switch closes it turns the pedal on and off alternately, it's not a one way is on one way is off thing like the bypass footswitch. That's why it has to be normally open momentary also. If you never disconnected the pedal from the power supply and never unplugged the power supply and never took the cable out of the input jack then the jumper could work. But that's not gonna happen and every time you remove power it resets itself to being off.     I think an SPDT would work ok, but you'll have to make sure you wire it so that the two wires are not connected until you throw the switch. So the pole has a wire connected to it and then only one of the throws has the other wire connected and it has to be the side that connects to the pole when the switch it thrown, so that the two wires connect just momentarily but return to not being connected after you release the switch.       I looked at Radio Shacks website and they have a couple of SPST momentary pushbutton switches that would work fine.   

thanks, that makes sense now,

I got the 3mmLED's with the ridge to probably work,(didn't try it yet but i don't see why it wouldn't) i simply clipped the ridge off with nail clippers, no damage either, then i just sanded it smooth with 600grit sandpaper

i got one other question  :icon_wink:

Quoteradio shack has a few SPST momentary pushbutton switches that should work fine.

Does it matter how many amps it is rated at?  Some are rated at 1.5amps and some are rated at 0.5amps.

thanks again for all the help with this pedal, i couldn't have done it with out ya, and you saved me a lot of headaches and made things more easier in the future for me.(no looper box!!)

I wish i could return the favor, maybe someday... ;)

No, doesn't matter in pedal. You're dealing with milliamps. The higher rated ones are usually bigger though.

I understand the wiring from the 3PDT to jacks,

BUT, I am confused about the wiring to the board, (3PDT to board and the board to jacks.)

THe pad that originally had the sleeve of the pc mounted jacks connected to it, are we still connecting the sleeve of the off board jacks to that pad?

Becuase in your drawing, the top pad of the board originally had the sleeve connected to it, now we are connecting the pad to the 3PDT top left lug, not the sleeve of the "new" jack.

ANd in your drawing, the lower pad originally had the ring connected to it, now we are connecting the sleeve to it.

DId you make a mistake in the drawing? Or am i thinking too hard?

thanks


***EDIT***
what do i do with the pads in the pc board where the bypass jack we removed used to go?(the jack we removed so that we could use the hole to mount the SPST)

Yes, the sleeve connections just go straight to the board, they're the ground connections for the jacks.   I didn't make the drawing exactly as it looks on the board, just to show what goes where, you need to figure out which pad is which on the board.   You don't need to do anything with the enpty pads from the bypass jack, just leave them empty.

Looking at the pedal again it looks like I did actually end up using jacks from the pedal for both jacks, not a different one like I said before.  You have to turn them counter-clockwise or they won't fit heightwise under the bottom lip where the black screws go. I had to bend the tabs on the input jack so they would fit without touching the side of the case and them put silicon goo all over them to prevernt shorting to the case. The jack and the wires are all kinda smashed up flat against the side but it fit and I haven't had any shorts.

QuoteI didn't make the drawing exactly as it looks on the board, just to show what goes where, you need to figure out which pad is which on the board.

cool that cleared it up i understand it now. That is why i got confused because i figured out which pad was which, and it didn't match up with the drawing as i looked at it.  :D

thanks again for the help

PS:i got the switchcraft jacks to work, but if i buy another KORG tuner to have as a backup, i am glad i could just use the jacks it came with.  ;D

hey sonicVI:

I wiried everything up, put the pedal back together and tested it. .

The very  outside 2 LEDS  on each side of display stay on.  I then step on the footswitch to tune and it goes to the tuning mode, and the tuner green led and whatever shows me i am tuning, it responds to the guitar note like normally, BUT, those outside 2 LEDS on each side stay lit, and actaully move with the middle LEDs showing my tuning.

I did change the outer LED on each side to a yellow one, so that might be the problem.  The yellow LEDs are way brighter than the other red and green LEDS.

****EDIT***

Yup, the yellow LEDs were the problem,  I unsoldered all my wires and removed the boards, changed it back to the RED ones, and soldered her back up, everything works! 

thanks SONICVI!!  ;D

one question though,

If i have the pedal plugged in, it has power etc... i hit the SPST to give it power, then step on the footswitch to tune, ok fine, now i am done tuning, but when i step on the 3PDT to bypass it, it bypasses, but the LEDS stay lit, they don't move or nothing, 

it seems when the pedal is bypassed it shows a letter B and stays lit with a few LEDs, even though it is bypassed.

does yours show any LEDs lit when it is bypassed by using the 3PDT? Or is it completely dark when bypassed.

thanks again  :icon_wink:

***EDIT***

i also noticed that if i plug my strat into RM into korg tuner into amp, and i have the korg tuner bypassed it stays on the letter B and a few LEDs light like i previously mentioned, but, if i put my RM on and have the tuner bypassed, i could actually tune even though it is bypassed, and you could obvioulsy hear the note too, as if you used the bypass jack(we removed that) to hear yourself tune, then when i hit the tuner, it mutes the signal and lets me tune like normal.

I guess the RM is raising the signal or something.   ???

Yeah, that's what mine does too, it shows a B with the a couple of the LED's lit.  I don't know of any way to get around that.  I tried using the third switch on the 3PDT to see if it would break the connection between the pole and the two throws enough to turn the tuner on and off every time I stepped on it but it didn't work.  Anyway, I doubt it's hurting anything having it on all the time. Maybe it's showing a flat B becasue there's some noise at 60Hz getting in there from the power supply or something and 60Hz is just flat of a B?  Let's see 440 is an A, so 220, 110,  55 are all A's, so yeah, maybe 60Hz is a flat B.  That's my guess anyway.  ;D               If it's actually true bypassed then there shouldn't be any signal getting to the tuning circuitry no matter how hot the signal is. I haven't experienced this, but then I always put my tuner first in line so there's never anything before it.   Do you notice any difference now btw? Did you notice any tone sucking before that you don't have now?

D.

yeah before i did this mod, the other pedals in my chain, Rangemaster, Fuzzface, sounded horrible because of the tuner.  But now, i could put a rangemaster or anything in their and my sound doesn't suffer.

One thing i did notice is that the, B flat shows up when i don't have any other pedal on before the tuner, but when i put a fuzzface, or RM on instead of a B flat showing, it bounces around showing different picthes and the LED's flash,(mostly whatever note i hit) i don't really mind this, but the part that i wonder about is why is it doing this? I think it has something to do with the SPST switch, couldn't we wire those two wires to the 3PDT instead of the SPST switch, because when you hit the SPST, the b flat is gone, (actually like we already know, there would be no power)

BUt what happened if we wired the wires to the 3PDT instead of the SPST, or wired them to the SPST and then ran wires from the SPST to the 3PDT ??? And used the 3PDT to turn the power on and off.  we would probably get popping or something.

Becuase i remember one tmie i wired my RM up wrong and instead of the input jack turing the power on and off, the 3PDT turned the power on and off, i changed it with help from ARON, because i wanted the normal way of turning power on. It took too long for the effect to come on when it was the other way.

i am sure there is something that could be done,

one other thing i want to add is:
I remember when i used my true bypass box to bypass the tuner the same thing happened with the B flat,
I would leave the tuner on  all the time, and just use my looper box to send the signal to the tuner and step on the looper box to bypass it.
Also, if i had a RM on and the tuner was bypassed via the looper box, but it was still on, it would jump around and display different pitches, the same way it does now,

Now that i think about i think what we did was build a looper box right inside of the tuner  :icon_biggrin:

Where's R.G. Keen when you need him  :icon_lol:

I tried A/B ing the tuner and i think i still hear a small drop in treble, but maybe not, it sometimes seems like there is and sometimes there is no loss,
I even recorded it and couldn't tell by much, but i think there might be still a little bit of treble loss.

BUt it is way better than before and the mod was definitely worth it!!  ;D

That's right, the same principle as building a bypass box inside.  I tested my bypass with my multimeter and I get a beep in continuity mode when the pedal is bypassed so if it's not true bypass then the resistance is extremely low. So it is truly byassed and nothing should get into the tuner.   Maybe you have something not quite right?   I'm not sure why you would be getting any signal in there any other way, maybe RG or Mark would have a guess, but I guess they aren't watching this thread.     Like I said I tried using the extra pole of the 3PDT instead of the SPST but it didn't work unless I just didn't do it right.  I guess the 3PDT doesn't allow the pole and throws to disconnect long enough to switch the pedal on and off electronically.  I suppose you could use a Carling SPST momentary footswitch that Small Bear sells and mount it to the case right next to the 3PDT and step on both of them at the same time but that might be more trouble that it's worth.  You'd need to remove the battery box to make it fit.