Does anyone have a link to a pcb layout for the hot harmonics. The earlier links to the Martyb gallery don't seem to go anywhere. Thanks again
well, no. i searched a lot, though, and have found that not only is Marty's gallery and site gone, but the creator of hot harmonics, Frank Clarke, has disappeared from the web. or just doesn't keep his pages for too long.
here are the links to the hot harmonics, including the creator's pages, that are broken. go, ahead, try them:
http://fclarke.softwareballistics.com/Distortion/ (http://fclarke.softwareballistics.com/Distortion/)
http://hottubes.webjump.com/distort/index.html (http://hottubes.webjump.com/distort/index.html)
http://www.ee.ualberta.ca/~charro/cookbook/audio/guitar/ (http://www.ee.ualberta.ca/~charro/cookbook/audio/guitar/)
http://aronnelson.com/gallery/MartyBs/HHtrnsf?full=1 (http://aronnelson.com/gallery/MartyBs/HHtrnsf?full=1)
http://members.home.net/fclarke/fx/ (http://members.home.net/fclarke/fx/)
http://www.freewebs.com/martyb/hotharmonics.htm (http://www.freewebs.com/martyb/hotharmonics.htm)
http://www.guitarkit.com/distortion/hotharm3.gif (http://www.guitarkit.com/distortion/hotharm3.gif)
http://web.archive.org/web/20021014103029/www.guitarkit.com/distortion/HotHarmonics.html (http://web.archive.org/web/20021014103029/www.guitarkit.com/distortion/HotHarmonics.html)
www.guitarkit.com/distortion/HotHarmonics.html (http://www.guitarkit.com/distortion/HotHarmonics.html)
http://members.home.net/fclarke/fx/distortion-14.htm (http://members.home.net/fclarke/fx/distortion-14.htm)
and here's the only page that works:
http://web.archive.org/web/20010615041932/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/Distortion-14.htm (http://web.archive.org/web/20010615041932/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/Distortion-14.htm)
sorry. anyway, i found this clip from home-wrecker. sorry if you've already heard it:
http://www.home-wrecker.com/hotharmonics.mp3 (http://www.home-wrecker.com/hotharmonics.mp3)
evidently, the double d from runoffgroove is similar. maybe build that?
http://www.runoffgroove.com/doubled.html (http://www.runoffgroove.com/doubled.html)
sorry if this wasn't much help. this is a scarce circuit now. it seems it was really popular, but there are a ton of people looking for it all the time now. good luck!
This is a link to Frank Clark's site as of Feb 06th 2002:
http://web.archive.org/web/20020206124650/http://members.home.net/fclarke/fx/ (http://web.archive.org/web/20020206124650/http://members.home.net/fclarke/fx/)
If you go to the Hot Harmonics page fortunately you can still find three versions of the circuit:
Original: http://web.archive.org/web/20010618203646/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/hotharm.gif (http://web.archive.org/web/20010618203646/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/hotharm.gif)
Modified: http://web.archive.org/web/20010618211121/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/hotharm3.gif (http://web.archive.org/web/20010618211121/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/hotharm3.gif)
Simplified: http://web.archive.org/web/20010618204855/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/hotharm2.gif (http://web.archive.org/web/20010618204855/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/hotharm2.gif)
And on the Clean Face page, a parody on Star Trek, original series which I couldn't resist posting here:
http://web.archive.org/web/20020206160820/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/Distortion-119.htm (http://web.archive.org/web/20020206160820/members.home.net/fclarke/fx/Distortion-119.htm)
Live long and prosper.
Thanks for the info. It's kind of weird, it seems to have vanished. I see Mark hammer has designed one called the forty niner which seems like pretty cool. I think I'll work from the above schematic and maybe try this the forty niner as well. Thank again
I thought I heard Frank Clarke was dead? Or am I just going mental at last!!
Anyone know which version this is?
http://www.home-wrecker.com/hotharmonics.mp3
I have MartyB's layout - PM me if interested. I "think" I read a post somewhere around here by the guy who did the MP3 on the Homewrecker site - I "believe" the gain/octave pot was replaced w/a fixed resistor - not sure of the value.
FWIW - I've been playing with the 4049 a bit lately. So far I like the 3 Legged Dog from RunOffGroove the best. I did a layout using a couple of things from the Hot Harmonics and Mark Hammer's Stupidly Wonderful Tone Control. It is posted on Bancika's site - It is verified and works as posted. I am currently working on a new layout - just a refinement of the original - that has better spacing. It's posted as "Stupidly Wonderful Tripod".
here's a layout that i did this morning. it's not verified, but i did it in eagle so if i got the schem right then everything is fine. the schematic, layout and pcb image are in this pdf file: hotharmonics-proj.pdf (http://gaussmarkov.net/images/hotharmonics-proj.pdf)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e270/gaussmarkov/Forum%20Posts/hotharmonics-perf.png)
i made this from the hotharm3.gif link given by stm above.
enjoy, gm
july 8 edit: this is no longer the original layout posted. C11 was added. to get the original as made successfully by 9 volts, replace C11 with a jumper.
Quote from: stumper1 on July 07, 2006, 02:58:27 AM
I have MartyB's layout - PM me if interested.
yes please. :icon_cool: pm sent. :icon_biggrin:
martyb turned me onto the 4049. i'm sorry he hasn't been around.
Wow!!!!!! This is fantastic. I've started building the above pcb layout and will keep you up to date with the results. (it looks fine so far). I've also downloaded the eagle software. The pcb layout is great.Thanks again
Quote from: 9 volts on July 07, 2006, 10:27:00 AM
Wow!!!!!! This is fantastic. I've started building the above pcb layout and will keep you up to date with the results. (it looks fine so far). I've also downloaded the eagle software. The pcb layout is great.Thanks again
hey, cool! :icon_cool: you are welcome.
because you are interested in eagle, i took the time to add a zip file containing the schematic and layout files for the hot harmonics project (http://gaussmarkov.net/layouts/layouts.html#hotharmonics) that i posted on gaussmarkov.net. you can make your own adjustments, or try a whole new approach if you like. :icon_biggrin:
if you have any questions or difficulties, please let me know.
have fun, gm
Quote from: 9 volts on July 06, 2006, 09:55:52 AM
Thanks for the info. It's kind of weird, it seems to have vanished. I see Mark hammer has designed one called the forty niner which seems like pretty cool. I think I'll work from the above schematic and maybe try this the forty niner as well. Thank again
This ( http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/mhammer/Forty-Niner.gif ) thing has turned out to be a very pleasing circuit. You can actually skip the frequency booster portion although some may find it useful. If you omit the frequency booster, then stick a 1-10uf electrolytic cap after point "A" and tie that to point "B".
The drive from the input stage is pretty hot (x48), which makes it harder to get subtler sounds. If what you're after is not singing sustain but rather simple amp grind, then do the following:
a) Increase the 1k resistor going to ground (via the 1ouf cap) in the first stage to 2k2 or even 2k7. That will reduce gain to x22 or x18 (with 2k7). If need be, bump it up to 3k3 for a gain of 15.
b) Stick a 220R-470R fixed resistor between the ground side of the drive pot and ground. That should have been there in the first place. Like the same resistor on the Sustain pot of a Big Muff, this will allow you to use the 7:00 position of the pot without cutting off the signal completely.
c) Stick a .01uf cap across the input (point B) and wiper of the Drive pot. This has the interesting effect of keeping treble drive up as you turn the overall Drive down. If you like John Lennon and John Fogerty distorted Rickenbackers, or if you like Mike Campbell's rhythm tone, this is for you.
Mine currently has 150k feedback resistors instead of the 100k shown. Not sure it makes a huge difference, but I suspect the 100k are better suited for adding bite as opposed to longer-sustaining distortion. the overall output level is quite generous, which means it can easily support any of a variety of passive tone controls (the same will be true of the Hot Harmonics as well). I have an SWTC as shown and it provides a nice taming of the edge. With some compression in front, it gets a VERY "round" sound at full tilt with the treble fully cut.
If that's not your taste, though, you could try out the variable midscoop, or any of the assorted 3-band or 2-band tonestacks modelled on Fender/Marshall amps. For the variable midscoop, do the following:
1) Replace everything between the 10uf output cap and the Volume pot with two fixed resistors in series. Let's say a 10k and 15k, in that order going from cap to pot.
2) Place a medium-small value cap in parallel with those two resistors. A value of 2200pf is a good place to start. Higher values will allow more mids to pass.
3) From the junction of the two resistors, run a cap to a pot (wired as variable resistor) and then to ground, in the manner shown here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/mhammer/moddedfy-2.gif The cap should probably be something between .039uf and .1uf according to taste. Larger values will suppress more of the lower midrange/upper-bass.
4) The pot will let you reduce the amount of scoop introduced. Probably best to use a 50k
log taper, and wire it up so that resistance
increases as you rotate clockwise.
You could add an SWTC after it for maximum tonal flexibility, but my guess is that this would introduce too much passive loss in some settings. So, to vary high end, a smarter move is to stick a 25k-50k variable resistor in series with the bypass cap (the one suggested as 2200pf, and shown as .001uf in the linked FY-2 schem). This will shift the balance of lows to highs.
All of this, incidentally, could likely be applied equally to the Hot Harmonics, with similarly pleasing results.
Mark,
Thanks for the great run-down.
I have been experimenting w/the Hot Harmonics / 3 Legged Dog for a while now. I finally have a circuit that I am very happy with, but I have acouple of questions considering last minute refinements.
1 - On the Hot Harmonics schem there is a 200R resistor in series with a 22uf cap to ground coming from the +9v supply. The IC gets its supply voltage from the junction of this resistor/cap. The input pre-amp connects directly to the +9v supply. I "think I read" that the 200R/22uf was to help "regulate" (is that the right word?) the power supply to the power hungry 4049 - making a battery last longer. Is this correct? If not, why is it there? If so, say I wanted to add basic power supply filtering (this is a pretty high gain circuit that so far works fine w/a battery but I WILL use a power supply sooner or later) and basic polarity protection. Will this create any other issues?
2 - My gain control is a simple variable feedback resistor. With the pot at 0 there is no output. I raised the pot to where I would like the lowest point - unsoldered it - and measured the resistance. Is it as simple as adding a fixed resistor in series with pot? Since there is no capacitor in the feedback path does it matter which side I put the resistor on? If it does - why?
i was surprised not to find a layout for mark's forty-niner circuit. maybe i just overlooked it. here's a draft of it.
in the schem, i made a couple of changes. i put the power supply to the opamp after the power supply filter. i was
tempted to put in a smallish cap in the supply filter as well, but left that alone for now.
i also referenced the unused inverters to ground, rather than +9V. IIRC it doesn't matter which reference you use.
in this case, it makes the GND routing a little easier.
mark left the decoupling cap for the Vbias unspecified, so i threw in a 10uF. anyone think this should be a different
value?
i also chose to use box film caps in some places. i am not sure that you could use this layout with larger caps,
particularly for the frequency booster section.
as usual, i did this in eagle so as long as the schem is right the layout will not have any routing mistakes. so please
check the schematic if you are interested. once this post has had a look over, i will make any necessary changes
and post a project file. nice circuit, mark!
--gm
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e270/gaussmarkov/Forum%20Posts/49er-schem.png)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e270/gaussmarkov/Forum%20Posts/49er-perf.png)
you directed these questions to mark, but since i am online and mark is probably sleeping, i will give them a shot. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: stumper1 on July 08, 2006, 12:06:21 AM
1 - On the Hot Harmonics schem there is a 200R resistor in series with a 22uf cap to ground coming from the +9v supply. The IC gets its supply voltage from the junction of this resistor/cap. The input pre-amp connects directly to the +9v supply. I "think I read" that the 200R/22uf was to help "regulate" (is that the right word?) the power supply to the power hungry 4049 - making a battery last longer. Is this correct? If not, why is it there? If so, say I wanted to add basic power supply filtering (this is a pretty high gain circuit that so far works fine w/a battery but I WILL use a power supply sooner or later) and basic polarity protection. Will this create any other issues?
i think this is an RC filter for the power supply. i do not think it affects affect battery life appreciably. it cuts high frequency PS noise and (IIRC) helps remove RF. take a look at other circuits and you will see the same thing, often using a 100uF cap. the resistor is frequently 100R. look at mark's forty-niner and that's what you will see there.
Quote
2 - My gain control is a simple variable feedback resistor. With the pot at 0 there is no output. I raised the pot to where I would like the lowest point - unsoldered it - and measured the resistance. Is it as simple as adding a fixed resistor in series with pot? Since there is no capacitor in the feedback path does it matter which side I put the resistor on? If it does - why?
sounds right to me. and order doesn't matter. the order of components in series never matters, at least in theory, even if you have a sequence of resistors and capacitors. the key thing is that the components are in series. if something connects to ground in the sequence, then that is not a series and order matters. i think i am quoting R.G. correctly on this one. ... yes, here is an R.G. post that covers both of these topics, the LPF (low pass filter) for the PS and the order of passive components in a series: Re: understanding the cutoff frequency(Pwr supply LPF)&resistor position (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=37942.msg267654#msg267654)
hope this helps, gm :icon_cool:
on a closely related topic, i see in the hot harmonics schem that MartyB had posted on his site (thanks stumper1 :icon_biggrin:) that there is a 22uF cap between the unused inverters of the 4049 and ground. frank clarke's schem doesn't show this and there isn't one on the red llama or mark's forty-niner.
does anyone know how much this cap matters?
thanks in advance, gm
I have a copy of the last version of the schem AFAIK,none of the links above take you to that version.
There is a correction where the power to the chip is fed off the junction of the 200 ohm/22uF cap and not from 9V.
So the chain would be 9V-200R-22uF-Gnd
There's a noticeable improvement in the quality of the distortion if you do it this way.
Aharon
Quote from: Aharon on July 08, 2006, 09:17:42 AM
I have a copy of the last version of the schem AFAIK,none of the links above take you to that version.
There is a correction where the power to the chip is fed off the junction of the 200 ohm/22uF cap and not from 9V.
So the chain would be 9V-200R-22uF-Gnd
There's a noticeable improvement in the quality of the distortion if you do it this way.
Aharon
hmm, you're right! i noticed that and then went on to something else. thanks for noticing and posting. :icon_biggrin:
i will incorporate this, gm
edit: files changed.
Thanks, gm. You get this week's "citizenship award"! :icon_biggrin:
Just a side note to gm,
Your PDF files on your site are EXCELLENT!
Thank you,
MarkM
:icon_redface: :icon_redface: :icon_biggrin:
I built the hot harmonic from the above pcb layout and it worked fine! The octave pot can get a little scary when up full, I like the idea of maybe subsituting for a set resistor or maybe a smaller pot. It's got a different sound to the lama.
But wow, I think I'm going to start work on that forty niner really soon! The sound examples are great at Marks Hammers site and a pcb board design from gaussmarkov to boot! Thats really fantastic.
It looks like there is alot of scope for personalizing the sound of these pedals.
What can I say Thanks again
i'm glad to hear it worked. :icon_cool: there's always room for a mistake in my version of the schematic.
mark's forty-niner is a much more complicated circuit. i recommend checking my schematic against his before building. i could be missing the same mistake each time i check it. :icon_confused: i would really hate to see you build a faulty layout. and i would really love to see you build something that fires up first time! :icon_biggrin:
now i am off to hold a spot for the germany-portugal game. ;D
--gm
GM-
Thanks for the help! While I seem to have my head around the series thing I'm still a little confused on the power supply filtering. Is there a reason that the Hot Harmonics schem shows the power to the IC via the filter while the power for the input/preamp stage is directly from +9v? Possibly to isolate the 2 sections? If I were to add the typical 100R/100uf filter to the power supply would this just be redudndant as far as the IC is concerned? If I add this should I remove the 200R/22uf? Should I just move the power for the input/preamp stage to the same place the IC gets it's power? It's a hot day here, should I just open an ice cold beer (it is kind of early though :o) and quit thinking too hard?
Quote from: Mark Hammer on July 08, 2006, 10:00:25 AM
Thanks, gm. You get this week's "citizenship award"! :icon_biggrin:
+1 (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Snowberg/diy/bootsy.gif) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Snowberg/diy/bootsy.gif) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Snowberg/diy/bootsy.gif)
Quote from: stumper1 on July 08, 2006, 02:39:17 PM
GM-
Thanks for the help! While I seem to have my head around the series thing I'm still a little confused on the power supply filtering. Is there a reason that the Hot Harmonics schem shows the power to the IC via the filter while the power for the input/preamp stage is directly from +9v? Possibly to isolate the 2 sections? If I were to add the typical 100R/100uf filter to the power supply would this just be redudndant as far as the IC is concerned? If I add this should I remove the 200R/22uf? Should I just move the power for the input/preamp stage to the same place the IC gets it's power? It's a hot day here, should I just open an ice cold beer (it is kind of early though :o) and quit thinking too hard?
back from the game--germany won handily and munich is full of celebration. it's a nice time for germany. they have hosted a very successful world cup and gone farther in the competition than most of them expected. it's nice to share it with them. even though that means i won't be getting any sleep for a while yet. :)
my understanding (and i am not the most qualified to speak on this), the transistor might as well get the filtered power, too. you can see in a previous post that i also noticed this difference between the IC and the transistor in mark hammer's forty-niner schem and moved the power supply for the transistor. no one has objected, so at least it's not a bad thing to do. :icon_wink:
i picked this approach up from posts by a number of folks. here's one by martymart (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=44065.msg327282#msg327282). if you read the thread you will see that the concept was still sinking in for me. :icon_biggrin: martymart has said at least twice in my presence :icon_redface: that he
always sticks a 100uF cap and a 100nF in parallel from the power supply to ground before the circuit. also, a diode for polarity protection. the caps put a low pass filter between the power supply and everything else.
also, if you look at lots of circuits (like a tubescreamer) you will see (at least) the 100uF cap sitting there. and another cap, maybe a 47uF, from the bias voltage to ground. the small resistor isn't always there. so the input buffer in a standard tube screamer gets cleaner power. same thing in the bsiab 2.
one filter seems to be sufficient. i have never seen two. so if you are going to filter the supply the the transistor, you might as well just move the connection after the 200R/22uF filter like i did with the forty-niner. and you might change the filter to 100R/100uF instead of the current values. the difference is how quickly these two filters roll off as the frequency goes up.
the thread i mentioned above also contains a formula that is often used for comparing two filters like this: the "cut-off frequency" is F=1/(2*pi*R*C) where R is the value of the resistor in ohms and C is the value of the capacitor in farads. R.G. explains that the "cut-off frequency is defined as the frequency where the signal being filtered is at half power, 6DBv down or 3db power down" and that "a single RC filter response slopes down at -6db / octave." so in both cases we are dealing with a single RC filter and we can take their roll-off shapes to be the same. the respective cut-off frequencies are about 36 Hz for the 200R/22uF and 16 Hz for the 100R/100uF. Both are well-below the 100 Hz where guitar frequencies apparently start but with only 3db attenuation. If we go another octave with each that would mean 9db attenuation at 72Hz for the first filter and at 32Hz for the second. clearly the second filter is killing much more of the stuff you typcially don't want.
so you might decide to just replace the original hot harmonics power supply filter with a 100/100uF filter.
all that said, it also appears that it doesn't matter to a lot of folks. we have been happily building the hot harmonics for a while with no complaints (that i can find) about the noise from the power supply. and there are plenty of circuits with no power supply filtering that have probably also had many satisfied users. like the triangle big muff pi that some of us were working on last week. FWIW, i like martymart's approach. it's easy insurance. and you don't have to build it onto your circuit board--it can be built separately which is kind of cool because it gives you more flexibility for cramming everything into that 1590B. :icon_biggrin:
whew! maybe that was more than you wanted. but the cars were honking pretty steadily until a moment ago. now that they have settle down, i'm going to call it quits ... but i would still like to hear about that 22uF cap that sits between ground the unused inverters of the 4049. you don't always see that either. probably more insurance. :icon_wink:
--gm
Quote from: gaussmarkov on July 08, 2006, 07:17:39 PM
i picked this approach up from posts by a number of folks. here's one by martymart (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=44065.msg327282#msg327282). if you read the thread you will see that the concept was still sinking in for me. :icon_biggrin: martymart has said at least twice in my presence :icon_redface: that he always sticks a 100uF cap and a 100nF in parallel from the power supply to ground before the circuit. also, a diode for polarity protection. the caps put a low pass filter between the power supply and everything else.
--gm
PS supply filtering has been around here awhile. RG's been preaching it for awhile. Phillip Bryant at Fuzz Central was one of the first to start putting it in his layouts, and then it seemed to catch on here with the masses. With a regulated, and filtered wall wart, some ckts are just fine. Then there are some ckts that seem to really need good filtering. I think companies like Boss go complete on ps filtering because they don't know if you'll use the recommended power supply.
The full route is usually
diode
100r
10-220uf
.01uf
If you use a ps, it never hurts to put it in your own layouts.
Here's an example
http://fuzzcentral.tripod.com/liquid.html
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=38976.msg277074#msg277074
Thanks to everyone for the help. The type of filter described is exactly what I was planning on using. I built an AMZ Overdrive Pro that worked great w/a batttery but when I put it on my pedal board w/a daisy chained One-Spot it squealed like mad. Added the filter and it works perfectly quiet now ;).
The only thing that had me confused was the seperate power supplies for each part of the circuit. I assumed (I know, I know...) it MUST be done for a reason. Anyway - THANK YOU to all who helped.
9Volts-
I e-mailed the Hot Harmonics stuff to you and it bounced back. I deleted the PM w/your e-mail address in it before I noticed. PM me your address again and I'll make sure you get it. :icon_cool:
Quote from: gaussmarkov on July 08, 2006, 07:17:39 PM
one filter seems to be sufficient. i have never seen two.
Quote from: puretube on July 08, 2006, 08:09:15 PM
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=38976.msg277074#msg277074
ok ... i have seen two. :icon_redface: :icon_biggrin: "never say 'never,'" i guess.
Hey I added the 22uf cap and it really makes a huge difference to the sound of this pedal.
Mark- I've also added the .01 cap to the gain pot and it's great. Can i do the variable midscoop as well or just do one or the other?
The variable midscoop can be added withut problem. The bypass cap is inserted before the gain, where the midscoop occurs after the gain stages, so only the one introduces passive loss.
The more general concern is with introducing so much passive loss after the gain stages that the only way to get some volume boost, relative to bypass, is by diming everything or by adding a gan recovery stage (as seen in the Big Muff, for those identical reasons). Ideally, one likes to have some "reserve volume capacity" so as to be able to get a volume boost when the effect is on even though the gain is set to something softer. Many folks like to use this type of pedal to simply push the amp a little harder during solos with a slightly coloured/shaped signal. If the only way to push the amp is to turn everything on 10 in the pedal, then what you end up hearing is the pedal and not the amp. I can see where some would want that, but I imagine a great many do not.
So, if the circuit provides sufficient potential volume boost, even with the gain turned down, and if the tone-altering stages after the gain/clipping stages don't introduce too much passive loss, there should be no problem. The suggested variable resistor in series with the bypass cap in the midscoop/notch filter will not alter the fact that the signal can simply go by route of the 10k+15k resistors to the output pot, so the amount of passive loss should be acceptable.
Quote from: 9 volts on July 09, 2006, 09:25:57 AM
Hey I added the 22uf cap and it really makes a huge difference to the sound of this pedal.
Mark- I've also added the .01 cap to the gain pot and it's great. Can i do the variable midscoop as well or just do one or the other?
:icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: 9 volts on July 09, 2006, 09:25:57 AM
Hey I added the 22uf cap and it really makes a huge difference to the sound of this pedal.
Was this the 22uf power supply cap or the 22uf cap from the unused inverters to ground?
As for the cap on the unused inverters - I'm with gm - why is it there?
Could someone please link to the schematic in question with the 22uF from unused inverters to ground?
Here you go ;)
(http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/th_hothrschem.gif) (http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e243/stumper1/hothrschem.gif)
Thanks Stumper. :icon_biggrin:
The 22uF pictured on the right is the same 22uF in the schematic on the left (the 200 ohm resistor is also repeated on both sides). The line that busses all the unused inverter inputs also connects to pin 1 of the 4049. I think it was illustrated that way to show that the 22uF should be fairly directly accross the Vdd and Vss pins of the 4049 instead of somewhere else connected to the rails.
Peter-
Thank you!!!! Now that you point that out it makes some sense. I was missing the connection to the +9v supply there. I assumed (there I go again) that unused inverters were being tied to ground - as I did in my layout - not the + supply. Which leads to one more question....
I've read that you should tie the unused inverters EITHER to ground OR +9v. Is there any difference between the two methods?
No difference. :icon_biggrin:
As long as the inputs are at either Vss or Vdd, the unused inverters will draw the least possible current and they will not oscillate which is the name of the game.
That's the schem I have.
At the time when this schem was posted (roughly 7 years ago?)I had just begun building.
One of my first projects was the HH.The mystery dude,C Gardel was me,soon after I started using my own name.
I does really sound better this way and Frank thought so too,I never thanked him for crediting me,so here it goes....thanks Frank.
Aharon
lots of cool history now in this thread. :icon_cool:
Quote from: Fret Wire on July 08, 2006, 08:02:16 PM
Phillip Bryant at Fuzz Central was one of the first to start putting it in his layouts, and then it seemed to catch on here with the masses.
Quote from: Aharon on July 09, 2006, 05:23:46 PM
At the time when this schem was posted (roughly 7 years ago?)I had just begun building. One of my first projects was the HH.The mystery dude,C Gardel was me,soon after I started using my own name.
thanks for sharing.
@peter: thanks for clearing up the mystery on the "extra" 22uF cap. i would never have figured it out. :icon_confused: :icon_biggrin: