DIYstompboxes.com

Hi, im going for the 9V electric mistress project that is on the page. I have a few questions:

1)I couldnt get the 33uF tantalum caps, can i use 22uF? Or maybe electrolitic?
2)Instead of the 5 uF, im going to use 4,7uF
3)Instead of 1N4001, im going to use 1N4007
4)Instead of the 1N961B, im going to use BZX55C10 (0,5W 10v Zener)
5)Instead of the CD4013, im going to use HEF4013BP
6)For the 4558, im going to use RC4558NB
7)Can i put a 200k taper resistor in a 1M Lin pot, to make it AntiLog?
8)Is the project true by pass? Because a wire comes out from the board saying Bypass, how is the DPDT Wiring?

Thanks.

8) *Can i add a led with that?
9) What is the V+ Battery lead for?

Thanks

10)Wich one of the two 1uF caps is tantalum?

1)Solved
2)Solved
3)Solved
6)Solved

What is the bypass and V+ battery leads for?

Anybody knows if i can get a true bypass with a dpdt and milennium in this project??

Last try :-\

The v+ battery is for if you want to power it with a battery, it goes to the positive battery connection.
The original isn't truebypass so the bypass wire goes to one outer lug of a SPDT switch and the out wire goes goes to the other outer lug, the middle lug goes to the output jack.
If you want to make it truebypass just use the in and out wires and wire it up like any other effect. You might want to do a search first though because I think it can have a volume drop when on if you truebypass it.

Thanks for the reply. I read all the post about this volume drop, but i didn´t found a "definitive" solution.

Is there a certain way to fix the volume drop of the 9V electric mistress with true bypass?

Thanks

I don't know if there is a definative way. If I was going to do it the first thing I'd try would be to make R15 bigger that would increase the volume. It might overload the SAD2024 though.

So what booster will be suitable for de electric mistress to normalize the volume?

i´d say you use a non-inverting op-amp gain stage, that´s what i did with my bad stone clone to fix the vol-drop issue.

cheers,
lowstar

and how do you do that?

If i choose to include a booster, should i put it before or after the electric mistress?

There's no point putting the booster before the electric mistress just to overcome the volume drop, because you could get the same result just by changing R15. It would probably be best to put the booster after the effect.

so what booster do you recommend? :P

Mosfet Boost - Hands Down. Been following this thread - Thanks Guys!

you don't need an actual booster you just need something to provide a bit of gain. Using a simple non inverting opamp stage like lowstar suggested is the easiest solution.

Quote from: slacker on June 09, 2007, 04:11:37 PM
you don't need an actual booster you just need something to provide a bit of gain. Using a simple non inverting opamp stage like lowstar suggested is the easiest solution.

I read your post, also i read wikipedia about the non inverting stage opamp. I still dont know but means, but, in this schematic and using a TL071:
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6b/Opampnoninverting.svg/800px-Opampnoninverting.svg.png)
Wich pins of the TL071 are in the schematic?
The input is Vin and output is Vout right?
And where should i put a pot to control volume?

Is this correct?
(http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/7104/renderli8.gif)
Where should i put a pot, and what values are R1 and R2?

Thats not quite right. If you want to learn about using opamps have a look here http://sound.westhost.com/dwopa.htm (http://sound.westhost.com/dwopa.htm) that gives you the basics, but it's all based on using a bi-polar powersupply. To figure out using opamps on 9volts check out the Tone God's page http://www.geocities.com/thetonegod/opamp/opamp.html (http://www.geocities.com/thetonegod/opamp/opamp.html)

Basically you want something like this

(http://www.eskimo.plus.com/fxstuff/opamp.png)

put this after the output of the circuit, and attach V+ and VREF1 to those points on the electric mistress schematic. (http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/9V_Mistress_project_file_v11_update.pdf)

You can use either a trimmer or a normal pot for the 10k to set the volume.

4) Will work. However, I recommend you to use a 15V Zener and run the thing with 12V (or even 15V) supply. Really sounds better!  ;)
5) I believe that's the same chip I used. I suppose every 4013 should work...
7) No. You'll end up with a much smaller LFO rate range. With 200k (or actually 166k) max resistance slowest LFO rate will be 5x higher than with an 1M. If you can't get an 1M revlog you might use a 1M log. Pot would work the other way round though.
10) C13

QuoteAnybody knows if i can get a true bypass with a dpdt and milennium in this project??

Shouldn't be a problem..

I too would go for a non-inverting opamp stage. Personally, I would increase the 10n to 1µ and decrease the 1M to 10k (or maybe a bit larger but - as a bass player -  that's just my panic to loose bottom end  ;) ). This might reduce noise a bit but most likely it won't really matter....as I said.. "personally"... ;)

Sorry for answering that late  :icon_redface: I've been very busy the last week...

Regards,

Markus

Thanks Markus for your replies, and thank you slacker for the schematic. Is this layout ok?
(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/2070/renderli6.gif)

Thanks

I made a mistake on the schematic, the output from the opamp should be pin 6 not pin 5, so that needs changing on your layout, sorry about that, I've changed it now.
The grey wire from the pot should go to the pin 2 side of R1 not the Vref side, the out on your layout should be from where C2 and R3 join, then it should be correct.

Ok, thanks, what about now?
(http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7692/rendervm5.gif)

that's right, good luck with it :)

I order a 1uF tantalium cap in my electronic store, and they give me a kind of ceramic in size that says 105, but has no polarity, i mean, there is no + or -, only says 105, is this right?

Rasco, is there any leg larger than the other?

no, there isnt. ???

It`s a 1uf alright. Probably Mylar, in which case I`d also hazard a guess it`s non-polarized.

Looks like the right one of this image, and says 105, and his legs are the same size
(http://www.ing.unp.edu.ar/electronica/asignaturas/ee016/tutoriales/capacitores/c-ceramicos.gif)

105 is the code. First and second numbers are the significant digits read as Pico-farads. The third is usually the amount of zeros to add. Therefore 10 =00000 = 1000,000pf = 1000nf = 1uf. Baddabing.

but is polarized or not? what should i do?

The one in that picture is a ceramic it's not polarised, so just put it in any way you like.  The 1uF in my schematic doesn't need to be a polarised cap, I just drew it as one because most caps that big are polarised.

With a 12v zener diode, i can make it work with both, 9v and 12v right?

Quote from: rasco22862 on June 12, 2007, 08:17:08 PM
With a 12v zener diode, i can make it work with both, 9v and 12v right?

with 15v zener diode, can i run it with 9v too??

OK, i finished building it. I´m using 9V to power it and a BZX55c10(10v zener 0,5w diode). I got all the voltages matched with these(they are a little bit higher, but all are related with them:
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g154/sta63bmx/effects/9v_electric_mistress/9V_ELECTRIC_MISTRESS_VOLTAGES.jpg)
I only have 3 voltages different:

LM311 PIN 7: 6,85V
CD4013 PIN 3: 6.82V (I THINK ITS CONNECTED WITH THE LM311 PIN 7)
CD4013 PIN 12: 0,8MV
CD4013 PIN 13: 7.6V.

And is not working.I got no sound at all when the fx is engaged. Nothing, not even hum. When i turn the trimpot, i listen a little bit of interference, nothing more.
I´m using true bypass, and i´m not using the bypass lead, i just wired the dpdt for a milennium switch.
Also i noticed that there isnt a hole for the output ground, so i just connect it with the input ground.
The only replacements are the 1n4007 for the 1n4001, 4,7uF for 5uF, HEF4013BP for CD4013

Thanks

OK I finished building and now is working. But i dont know if its working like it has to be working. Can anybody explain me with details how i should set the trimpots?

Thanks

I just finished mine and set the trimpots in the following way:

The bias trim I turned intill the effect was obvious, i didn't notice a lot of difference between different settings so I just configured it in the way it was working.

For the feedback trim I first adjusted the feedback potmeter for maximum feedback. Then I adjusted the trimmer until I heard a lot of feedback. After this I turned the feedback trim until the feedback was gone. This is best done with the guitar volume off, to not confuse the feedback with the effect sound.

The clock trim didn't do a lot for me. The sound changed but it seems it doesn't affect the rate that much. I also have the problem that the rate changes the most at the end of the turn of the rate potmeter, makes it hard to fine tune the effect. Maybe I connected the pot wrong or maybe the effect is designed this way. I adjusted the clock trim until I got an effect I liked.

How does yours sound?

Hi, thanks for you reply. In mine the bias trim has maybe 30 degrees where the effect is working, in the other, the effect doesnt work, just clean sound, so i think this one is ok.
Now for the feedback, i set it to the middle, then i noticed that when i was adjusting the range pot to maximum a creepy and very high noise "from space" was coming out. So i adjust the feedback trim with the range pot to maximum, and when the noise dissapeared i leave it that way.
For the clock trim (this one is the hardest to set) I set the rate pot to maxiumum rate (i put a 1m log backwards), and the range and color almost to maximum, and started to set the clock trim, when i heared a complicated sound "with a lot of effects", set it to that position. I dont know maybe its incorrect.
Can you upload some sound clips Bassco?
Im going to do it tomorrow. (Maybe a comfortably numb solo :icon_razz: with a big muff)

Thanks again

I'll see if I can get to it. You know any good free place to put the files?