It's an old pedal designed originally by Bob Moog from what I understand. It was part of a series called the TFC-series (total foot control). And I want it - badly too. Unfortunately it's very rare, and I've been wanting to start building pedals for a while now. So yes, it will be my first build - even though it might be a little complicated for a first build. If it takes an extra effort so be it!
Okay so let me start out by posting schematics and a picture of the pedal.
Schematics: Here (http://www.student.ru.nl/r.kerkhof/MPF.jpg)
(http://www.amptone.com/images/Maestro1.jpg)
1. First off. I've come to the conclusion that the numbers 1-12 in the middle of the bottom, and a little to the right of it are for a DP5T switch (a dual 5-way rotary switch, in-case naming them was only something I thought I knew how to). Can you confirm this?
2. (Answered) If it IS correct I'm looking for something called DP5T or 2P5T, correct?
3. (Answered) I want the shaft to be 1/4 inch to fit the most knobs, correct?
4. Have a look at this. http://www.surplussales.com/Switches/SWRoMisc-1.html Part number: (SWR) 172246-H1. It looks to have the right specs - except it's a make before break switch. Does this mean that for a very short while 2 pathways will be open at the same time? This is going to cause trouble isn't it?
5. (Answered) I have stumbled upon switches named 2P3-6T for example. The description said it was adjustable from 3 to 6 positions. Does this mean that you can lock it, so you can only turn it in 5 different positions? Cause I don't want an extra position, even if it does the same as the one before, or nothing at all. That would be sort of sloppy, and I don't want that in any way :)
6. (Answered) The schematics say I need a 10k S-Tapered pot for the "Height" control. What is S-taper?
7. (Answered) Do I need to worry about the quality of the pots and the rotary switch?
That's all the questions I have for now :)
So rare I have 2 of them plus the original box!
Unfortunately both need work and I have no time for personal projects at the moment.
Yes, it's a 2-pole, 5-position switch. The adjustable ones will work fine. There's a metal washer with a tab that locks it to however many positions you want. You also want 1/4" shaft for most knobs.
According to a page at Angela Instruments ( http://www.angela.com/catalog/potentiometers/Alps_Pots.html (http://www.angela.com/catalog/potentiometers/Alps_Pots.html) ), S-taper is the same as linear taper.
As for the pot and switch quality, if you're going to move them with your foot, I'd use some heavy-duty ones.
Thanks for the reply!
Yes, I also read about someone else who had the luck to find two of these in a music store, he wrote the might even have one left. As I live in Denmark the chances of finding something like that are extra low. I've also been watching ebay, but nothing has come up :)
Is there any way to tell if they're heavy duty? Should I be looking for a closed/packaged one as opposed to an open one?
Btw, I know this is asking a LOT, but could you possible take some gut shots of it? :-\
Quote from: the-bna on August 06, 2008, 02:12:05 PM
Thanks for the reply!
Yes, I also read about someone else who had the luck to find two of these in a music store, he wrote the might even have one left. As I live in Denmark the chances of finding something like that are extra low. I've also been watching ebay, but nothing has come up :)
Is there any way to tell if they're heavy duty? Should I be looking for a closed/packaged one as opposed to an open one?
Btw, I know this is asking a LOT, but could you possible take some gut shots of it? :-\
As long as there's little space for the knobs to move around you could probably get by on standard units. The sealed units are nice because they keep dirt out however the open frame switch is a bit more robust than the enclosed (which is usually all plastic).
I'll see if I can get some gut shots to you. Remind in a few days if I don't post them.
Thanks a lot, sounds great! Thanks for the advice on sealed vs. open too.
About that make-before-break thing, do you think I should avoid that and get the standard break-before-make type?
What type of effect is this MPF?
How it sounds like?
Quote from: gigimarga on August 07, 2008, 08:08:39 AM
What type of effect is this MPF?
How it sounds like?
It's a foot-controlled parametric filter.
Demo vid here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4Qzptnrjgc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4Qzptnrjgc)
Is this the QOTSA pedal?
About S-Taper potsIt's true that S-taper pots are like linear pots - almost. Take a look at this:
Quote from: Miami Mike
Quote from: village_idiot
Just to add to this... Most of the commercially produced TX pots have been designed so that they get they "full" 5K ohm range in the 60 (or so) degrees of rotation, this maximises the voltage change giving you the greatest range of values from the A/D conversion.
Right. Those are called S taper pots. They're also used in joysticks for computers and video games.
Any idea where to find these?
Wow...it sounds interesting...thx a lot theehman!
Cool, I might do a PCB for this - it looks like fun.
Some nice mods possible with this circuit too.
A friend of a friend tried to get me to drill a hole in one of these and install a 9v jack. I told him no f*ing way.
Quote from: MikeH on August 08, 2008, 10:51:53 AM
A friend of a friend tried to get me to drill a hole in one of these and install a 9v jack. I told him no f*ing way.
Why not?
Quote from: theehman on August 08, 2008, 11:03:52 AM
Quote from: MikeH on August 08, 2008, 10:51:53 AM
A friend of a friend tried to get me to drill a hole in one of these and install a 9v jack. I told him no f*ing way.
Why not?
Dont get that either :) It's a pain having to change batteries all the time
Circuit board shot as requested (IC on right is missing):
(http://www.ronsound.com/misc/maestropf1.jpg)
Thanks! Much appreciated
Anyone made a PCB for this in the meantime?
yeah, that could be really cool ! (A guy of Freestompboxes.com has made a clone of this pedal)
Nobody?
Quote from: theehman on August 06, 2008, 01:55:49 PM
According to a page at Angela Instruments ( http://www.angela.com/catalog/potentiometers/Alps_Pots.html (http://www.angela.com/catalog/potentiometers/Alps_Pots.html) ), S-taper is the same as linear taper.
That's not completely true although a linear will do the trick.
The S-taper is the same as the "w" taper found in the tubescreamer for the tone control. It's also referred to as the "g" taper and is a combination of a log and a reverse log travel. This makes the tonecontrol "nicer" to control.
example (partially borrowed from R.G.)
(http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/pottaper.gif)
I'm totally in favour of this thread
I've got one of these gems and have wanted to clone a backup for a long time.
your main hurdle is that is uses old hard-to-find OTAs and other semi-obscure chips, so sourcing those at a decent price will be tricky. OR we could work on modifying the circuit to use more common equivalents (lm13600s for example)
also an idea for a modification/improvement: when you switch the unit into overdrive mode, there is a considerable volume drop, rectifying that would be nice.
btw: the schematic jpg isn't showing up
actually maybe I'm confusing this with the maestro phasors, I can't remember if this actually uses any OTAs. its such a hassle to disassemble these cases, so kudos to Theehman for taking the time to do so.
still can't seem to find a schematic anywhere on the net (without having to pay for one)
Quote from: Rectangular on September 04, 2009, 05:23:26 PM
actually maybe I'm confusing this with the maestro phasors, I can't remember if this actually uses any OTAs. its such a hassle to disassemble these cases, so kudos to Theehman for taking the time to do so.
still can't seem to find a schematic anywhere on the net (without having to pay for one)
Let me see what I can do.
Quote from: Rectangular on September 04, 2009, 05:23:26 PM
actually maybe I'm confusing this with the maestro phasors, I can't remember if this actually uses any OTAs. its such a hassle to disassemble these cases, so kudos to Theehman for taking the time to do so.
still can't seem to find a schematic anywhere on the net (without having to pay for one)
Not the greatest, but if there's any questions, let me know.
(http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/theehman/MPF1.png)
That will be really cool if you can make a usable layout of that pedal ! (To calm dowm my QOSTA's fan attitude :icon_lol:)
The first IC reminds me something . I believe a guy here I've made a similar distorsion unit.
Quote from: fuzzo on September 05, 2009, 07:09:52 AM
The first IC reminds me something . I believe a guy here I've made a similar distorsion unit.
Yeah it's a CD4007, basically a bunch of Mosfets on a chip. There's a few distortion designs using it.
Here's the schematic that was linked to in the first post in the thread, I downloaded it ages ago, but I've never got round to doing anything with it. If anyone has a problem with me posting it let me know and I'll remove it :)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=40451&g2_serialNumber=1)
well... it seems it is possible to substitute the whole CD4011-4016-rotaryswitch with just 4 spdt switches... also I'm not sure the second part of the rotary is doing anything at all with those 330 ohm at some positions...
An another cool thing will be creating another pedal inspired by that Meastro but with a different schematic, more "modern" (I don't really know how that could be more "modern").
I don't know if it's mentioned somewhere in that thread but that pedal (and other with the same enclosure) have made by Moog.
thanks for the two schematics guys, great stuff
the TL022 is the only thing I'd have to order. I forget what the deal with those is, are they like the tl082s where its some impedance difference (compared to a tl072, 074) ? or they're extra precision ?
man, what a weird pedal, this isn't the kind of circuit I was expecting at all, after looking at the other maestro designs.
I hope that I will have some time to make a PCB for it next weeks ;)
:)
I hope too ;D
I have a lot to work at my job, so, maybe, the next month I will have sometime for MPF :(
Isn't to press you, take you time. I say that just to mention the fact I'm intersting too (but I haven't the skills to do PCB of a big project like that)
Anyway, Someones can explain how works that circuit , the different part which act on the signal.
I have a fair amount of time during the week, lately. I was thinking about starting a PCB for this in Eagle, as I've done a few with success. This, however, is one bizarre looking creature and I can't say I quite understand what is going on in some parts of it. I would be willing to collaborate by doing the normal-looking things in the circuit, if someone with Eagle experience and a knowledge of the circuit would be willing to tie up the bizarre switching and the weird intricacies like that. I have no problem with the average or even complex fuzz box, but this one is out of my league. I can certainly lay groundwork, though. Send me a PM if you're interested.
I agree, the switch arrangement is very confusing. nothing is more frustrating than trying to decode someone's "A,B,C,D,E,F" labeled connection points and hoping you're doing it correctly. rotary switches can confound even the simplest of schematics.
I am going to be on a plane the majority of Sunday and Monday. If Theehman can send me a picture of the trace side I would gladly put together the original layout. I've no experience in designing my own or using eagle or anything like that, but maybe an original layout can be some groundwork for a more advanced version. Especially if nelson takes a swing at it!
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/mpf_track.jpg (http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/mpf_track.jpg)
http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/mpf_comp.jpg (http://www.dirk-hendrik.com/temp/mpf_comp.jpg)
Cool...I'm on it! I'll report back Tuesday.
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4162/tracel.th.jpg) (http://img151.imageshack.us/i/tracel.jpg/)
Here's what I got so far. I wanted to post it as I wont have several days to get back to it. Maybe someone else can clean it up and place the drill dots and finish out the switch area. It's a start at least.
Quote from: jmasciswannabe on September 12, 2009, 08:14:22 PM
(http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/4162/tracel.th.jpg) (http://img151.imageshack.us/i/tracel.jpg/)
Here's what I got so far. I wanted to post it as I wont have several days to get back to it. Maybe someone else can clean it up and place the drill dots and finish out the switch area. It's a start at least.
Woow...very nice work jmasciswannabe!! Thx a lot!
The rotary switch seems a little strange to me...what I can buy here have the poles in the middle: http://www.conexelectronic.ro/produs.php?id=36908 (http://www.conexelectronic.ro/produs.php?id=36908)
Thank you so much.
But a question, do you want to keep the pedal like the original was ? I mean you won't include a tru bypass switching ? (the original has bypass integrated in the box, you had to kick hardly the box to engage or desengage it)
I can't find the 10K "S" taper in my regular seller, anyway we could take a 20K tone control for tubescreamer and add a 10K R in //.
Anyway, thanks for all the work about that circuit (I haven't the skills to help you tracing the PCB :icon_redface:)
yeah, I am not sure what part of the schem and layout controls the switching, but it can be removed and truebypassed, hopefully know volume drop! On my way to Arizona! I'll check back with the layout soon!
Here we go:
(http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/2163/mpf2.th.jpg) (http://img411.imageshack.us/i/mpf2.jpg/)
(http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/710/trace.th.jpg) (http://img183.imageshack.us/i/trace.jpg/)
(http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5494/mpfcomp2copy.th.jpg) (http://img171.imageshack.us/i/mpfcomp2copy.jpg/)
(http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/1238/mpftrack2.th.jpg) (http://img183.imageshack.us/i/mpftrack2.jpg/)
I think I found an error in the schematic. According to the layout c3 is right off pin6 of the cd4007 and does not receive voltage on both sides. I could be wrong on this but I changed the schem and added parts numbers so it will be easier to discuss. If someone could clean up the trace that would be really awesome. Also, if anyone decides to build, take your time and compare the schem with the layout until it is verified. There was a crazy cat lady on the plane whos cat meowed for a solid hour and I felt my brain going to mush.
I think C3 is fine, it goes from pin 2, which is the output of one stage of the CD4007 to pin 6 which is the input of another stage. It makes more sense if you look at the other schematic that shows the individual parts of the CD4007 or look at the CD4007 datasheet.
I should have paid more attention. I could have used that schem's component numbers. It does have the .022 cap going direct to pin 6 of the IC, though. So I'm a bit confused. Does it not matter either way?
Just looked at it again, I didn't realise you had changed the schematic you posted, I thought you'd just added the part numbers. I think the way you've drawn C3 is correct.
Sorry for any confusion.
No problem, Ian M from England :) and loved the echobase build, by the way!
All right, I am assuming that the 4016 does the switching that we no longer need. So could this stuff I circled be taken out letting the signal after c5 go to the r19, r22 and tl022 intersection. Would the intersection between r6 and r7 need to tie back in after c5?
(http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2620/noswitch.th.jpg) (http://img38.imageshack.us/i/noswitch.jpg/)
Quote from: fuzzo on September 13, 2009, 08:56:40 AM
I can't find the 10K "S" taper in my regular seller, anyway we could take a 20K tone control for tubescreamer and add a 10K R in //.
Why not recalculate the thing for use with a 20kw instread of a 10kb?
yeah I meant using a 20Kw with a 10K in // .
Quote from: jmasciswannabe on September 15, 2009, 10:32:12 PM
All right, I am assuming that the 4016 does the switching that we no longer need.
I don't think you can ditch the CD4016 stuff, isn't it needed to switch between the different modes?
I've been trying to make sense of it all, but I haven't got it figured out yet.
I thought the 4016 was one of those boss deals controlling the bypass. the mode select looks to be controlled by the 4011 and the 4pdt. I really have no idea though. Can anyone explain?
I feel a lot better knowing this is all bizarre to others, as well. Maybe the boutique guys should just use confusing switching mechanisms instead of goop. Though I think they'd want an original design first, since a FF with a weird switching setup still looks like a FF with junk on it. I can't answer the question so this is basically a bump for hopefully one of the super-gurus.
I would suggest leaving the design as it is, and try using an adjustable rotary switch with 10 positions. this both keeps it in line with the original schematic, and prevents any possible audible changes from occuring. generally my clones sound a bit different from the real thing (I make an effort to purchase everything I clone), so preserving the original layout would be ideal. I still can't get my polyphase to sound like a real one, for example.
Hi,
I found a scan of the original service manual via google: http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/Spaghettaboutit/Maestro%20MPF/
It gives a wonderful explanation of the switching and the circuit in general.
Hope it helps,
Peter
absolutely beautiful find ! really nice to see the original schematics. this is a lot easier to work from
Nice!! Thanks for the manual!
Do you still need cleaned up trace version?
its weird to think this expensive vintage effect is just a few TL022s, plus some 1n4148 diodes for the distortion. you'd think there'd be more to it, but then again, moog always designed towards cheap, easily available parts.
Quote from: p.eat on September 26, 2009, 09:27:06 AM
Hi,
I found a scan of the original service manual via google: http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j64/Spaghettaboutit/Maestro%20MPF/
It gives a wonderful explanation of the switching and the circuit in general.
Hope it helps,
Peter
Thx a lot man!!!
Quote from: JKowalski on September 27, 2009, 01:08:31 PM
Do you still need cleaned up trace version?
Sure! Go for it!
Did anyone end up pursuing this one yet? I've been packing/moving/unpacking into a new apartment and refinishing furniture for about forever and won't have a free moment for a while. Just curious how the project was coming along, if it still is. I'd like to live vicariously in the meantime.
I've just found the service manual and have given it a quick once over. I'm going to breadboard up a pseudo clone right now using some standard toggles as suggested previously in this thread. The benefits would be huge: not only would we be able to forgo sourcing the cd4016 and the 5 position rotary switch, but by separating the mode and filter Q switching, we add an "overdrive/broad" setting not attainable with the original unit. Of course, the 3 filter settings will require a center-off SPDT while a normal on-on SPDT should be used for the mode switch. I don't have a cd4007 hanging around either so I'll be substituting that out with a couple of discrete gain stages (probably BJT for now) so I can focus on tuning the actual filter circuit and getting the switching right. I'll report back with results shortly.
All in all this is an elegant, simple circuit when you can make sense of it. Classic Moog engineering... just with an insane switching configuration reminiscent of Craig Anderton.
On second glance, there might need to be a tad more switchiness than just a center-of SPDT for the filter Q selector in order for the height control to work over the same range for different Q settings. The 330 ohm voltage divider from the height pot makes things a little hairy. Of course, it's unlikely that I'll find an S-taper 10k height pot in the first place, and if you're switching filter settings anyway it's not much trouble to adjust the height as well if it is way out of wack. I'm going to experiment to see just how dramatic the difference between settings without the divider can be, and I'll make a judgement call whether or not to deal with the extra effort based on my findings.
Ok I didn't notice that the pole 3 (representing the "broad" filter setting) is always connected to the switch's throw terminal, so the entire filter Q switching could be done with a center-off DPDT with the voltage divider for height compensation switching included. Booya.
Well I got the filter wired up and tested and all I can say is WOW. I didn't even prototype the buffers or clipping stage and I'm very impressed. I'm hearing a Brian May-ish, half-%^&*ed wah tone. I'm definitely going ahead with a PCB for this puppy, and I've already gotten most of the schematic redrawn in Eagle, ready for the board to be laid. Here is the initial schematic with the rotary switch and cd4016/cd4011 replaced with normal switches:
(http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/463624/MPF-1.rev0.png)
I'm going to rework the power section to include an external jack and contemplate true bypass and LED indicator options before finishing the board. This is what the filter section looks like on my breadboard. It's easy to get carried away playing with the frequency control while piping music through the filter. It's like an instant shitty house DJ in a single knob.
(http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/463624/IMG_0404.JPG)
:icon_eek:
I don't even make work a simple JFET booster on my breaboard :icon_confused:
impressive.
Wow. And welcome. I'm glad to hear someone's making great progress. Keep us posted, please. That's intense.
Thx a lot xdissent!!!
Ok so I've come up with some clever tricks to NOT have to deal with a dual reverse log pot for the frequency control since finding a top adjust model proved impossible. My board layout has 3 different possible arrangements: top adjustable switches and pots, side adjustable switches and pots, and top adjustable but with foot wheels for frequency and height. In the foot wheel arrangement, a normal side adjust dual audio taper pot can be used for the frequency control if the it's on the LEFT side of the unit, since "up" will be "counter clockwise." I don't know HOW good old Mr. Moog let this slip past him! The height control is linear taper so it can be moved to the right without worrying about getting the correct taper since either way will work. What luck!?
Since I've found some side adjust dual reverse log pots by alpha that are side adjustable, the side adjustable configuration will behave as expected. The only compromise at this point is if you don't want the side mounted foot wheels, you're going to have to use a linear pot for the frequency. After testing, that's not as big of a deal as I expected especially considering it's not going to be something you change on the fly with your foot, but it's a little lame. Oh well, this thing is supposed to have foot wheels anyway, and it doesn't limit the sounds you can get in any way.
The reason for 3 different arrangements on the same board is that I wanted 1 board to provide for a normal pedal, a pedal with foot wheels, and a rackmount / desktop unit. So far so good!
I've also decided to add an output volume pot, which actually has a push/pull DPDT switch attached in the rackmount configuration for an enable/bypass switch. The other versions use a normal pot since the footswitch will handle bypass. The problem is, the CD4007 inverter section used as an output buffer has relatively high output impedance (10k as shown!) so the choice is either use an audio taper pot or a linear pot with tapering resistor from wiper to ground. Unfortunately I can't find an audio taper pot with a push/pull DPDT anywhere, not to mention I loathe audio taper to begin with, so I'm going with the linear taper pot with tapering resistor. Of course a side effect is that the tapering resistor will cut the output level dramatically due to the high output impedance and low input impedance of a pot with a tapering resistor. I kind of have to wait to get my hands on my 4007 ICs to do some testing to compensate for this insertion loss since there's basically no data available for the inverter section used as a linear amp and each chip can vary pretty wildly.
Regarding true bypass - screw it, input impedance is as high as you'd have to be to claim you can tell the difference between bypass as shown and true bypass. So that's one less thing.
Ordering parts tomorrow and finishing the board to be prototyped this week as well. I'll have boards and component kits available for whatever configuration you want to build, as well as fully assembled units if you'd rather just get your hands on one without delay - and trust me - YOU DO. This thing is hands down my new favorite pedal.
Oh, it should go without saying that if you're an off-board component type of dude, you can just hook whatever pot/switch configuration your heart desires. I have found that off board components are not only a major pain to wire up, they're also the number one source of failure or error in builds so I always take the time to precisely layout pads for pcb mounted stuff. It's just personal preference but either way this board will work for you.
This is going to be like an itch I can't scratch for a month or two, since I promised myself I would finish my half-finished pedals when I got done unpacking and organizing my new appartment, which has almost happened. Congrats on conquering this one and thanks for sharing.
How have you changed the rotoswitch by a biploar switch ? the rotary switch has more of two selections ?
Thanks a lot !!
Quote from: fuzzo on October 25, 2009, 07:52:44 PM
How have you changed the rotoswitch by a biploar switch ? the rotary switch has more of two selections ?
Thanks a lot !!
The rotary switch in the original is doing double duty by selecting natural/overdrive as well as the Q (sharpness) of the filter. You can break those functions apart into 2 switches - one for Q, and one for natural/overdrive. Luckily, the "broad" setting for the filter doesn't actually require a switch at all, so that becomes the "off" position in a center-off DPDT switch. The other switch is just an SPDT to select between natural and overdrive. The bonus is you can use the broad Q setting with natural tone, which is not possible with the original switch, plus u can ditch 2 DIP14 ICs! Check the schematic above to see how it works but note that it has a couple minor errors unrelated to switching.
Ok.I get it. Thanks.
That's really nice that you share your work with us .
Oh, dude, it's not MY work, it's my interpretation. MY work is just maybe trying to make sense of an idea from a genius. Not sharing would be an injustice to everyone who respects the man behind the original design. I'll take credit for modernizing *maybe* but at this point it's my duty to some how facilitate the reproduction of the legend. Maestro may not have been a succesful venture, but the dream lives on damn it! Plus I really need to own this pedal, and I don't want anyone to have the same withdrawal pains.
She's done! In a stroke of luck, I remembered that I wanted to test and potentially replace a CD4007 from a Realistic Concermate MG-1 which was being flakey. I popped the chip out, ran some tests, determined it was 100% functional, and used it in the pre/overdrive/output buffer stages of the MPF-1 circuit I breadboarded up. So now I have a complete prototype sitting on my desk and it sounds great. Ordering parts and finishing up the board layout now that I'm totally confident in the accuracy of the design. My buddy is also lending me his original pedal so I can compare it to my version, which will be very helpful in comparing the old TL022 opamps which I'm replacing with TL062's, and the modern MC14007 with the stock CD4007. Progress!
The full monty:
(http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/463624/Maestro2.jpg)
Nice ( I don't know how you did to make a complex circuit like that on a breaboard but "bravo")
Nothing new ?
Oh tons. It was REALLY difficult sourcing all the pots and switches I needed but prototype parts were finally ordered earlier this week. I've only got a few more Eagle footprints to lay out and I'll hopefully finish the board today. Tomorrow is enclosure prototyping day, and then when the boards arrive I'll have kits, boards, or assembled versions available on the cheap! I do have an original on loan now, which I've been playing through a LOT! I've taken it apart and tested my breadboarded version against it for accuracy. It's spot on like the original.
(http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/463624/Mobile%20Photo%20Oct%2031%2C%202009%202%2025%2028%20PM.jpg)
Inside:
(http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/463624/Mobile%20Photo%20Oct%2031%2C%202009%202%2025%2051%20PM.jpg)
Ok. it's a good new ! :icon_biggrin:
(sorry to seem a little profiteer but I'm really interesting about that pedal and I haven't the skills to make my own PCB desing (at least at this moment) )
xdissent , what's new ? better or similar to the Original maestro ?
I dry fit a perfboard with all the controls in a cardboard mock up of the enclosure yesterday. Everything is looking perfect so I'm sending out for the PCBs after a couple of minor tweaks. It took a little longer than expected because I wasn't happy with one of the potentiometers and a switch that I had planned to use so I redid the footprints to take the new ones. Plus, I added a drive control to allow you to back off the overdrive / pre-filter gain a bit. It's not that the original overdrive is way over the top and it could be adjusted by turning down the volume on the guitar, but with this arrangement I was having trouble matching volume levels in bypass mode if I had messed with my guitar output level. So now it's way more flexible, especially if it's not going to be the only pedal you're playing through. Sorry if this seems to be taking a long time, I'm just obsessive compulsive when it comes to these things and it's got to be absolutely perfect. Nothing is more sad than getting back an order of PCBs and something being "just off." I'll keep you posted!
No need to apologize for OCD when you're shooting for quality
Update: I'm alive, and so is this project.
I had a lot of annoying problems with the Eagle devices I was using in this particular pedal, so I put this design on hold for a little while to get my parts libraries straight. That's good news for everyone because I'm now much closer to ordering the boards and all future projects will go much more quickly, plus I've also released everything I use in Eagle so you can use it too. See my post here:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=80469.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=80469.0)
hI xdissent , what's new ?
Have you more compared the both pedal ? have you solved the parts issues ?
(No really an interesting post from me, but that's just to keep this thread alive and showing my interest ) :)
I'm also hoping the project is alive and well. I'm finally settled in and did my first etching and soldering in months, the night before last. I'm looking forward to this one.
???
What happened??
http://www.youtube.com/user/STONEDEAFFX
I've emailed him about kits and boards and waiting on a response
still dead ? xdissent ?
I never got a response to emails I sent to two different addresses he has listed.
he died
Who died ? the thread I hope ???
Looks like this is where it ended up: http://www.whatsthatdudeplay.com/2011/08/a-pdq-look-at-the-pdf-1/
I know this thread has long been abandoned, but here's my contribution to closure! A slightly cleaner PCB trace artwork, and a sloppy veroboard version with switches instead of the 4011 & 4016. I can verify that I've built the vero version and it works, but if anyone sees any glaring errors let me know.
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb474/strangeamps/MAESTROfinal.jpg)
(http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb474/strangeamps/MaestroMPF1trace.jpg)
-Strangeamps
aka lennythefence
aka nutjob
THANKS !!
i forgot to put an indication that the height pot center lug goes to the very bottom right corner track.
hello,
i want to make one more Q - selectable., like the PDF-1 . What kind of resistors i have to put in the circuit?
Can help me somebody?
thanks
Hi, I have a problem with the 2P3T connections.. :icon_cry: I see 6 wires on vero but my switch has 10. Can anybody explain how to do that.? :icon_rolleyes:
Hi! I make this fantastic pedal!One question: it's possible to add a gain/drive pot to control the overdrive in overdrive mode? (As in Stone deaf pdf-2)
or is there any solution to solve the drop volume in overdrive mode?
How Can i make this?
Thanks