well,
looks like those other guys have reversed this one, so you guys might as well have the schematic!
(ive put it in my photobucket as i dont think links to that site work?)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a113/midfielectronics/mid-fi_clarinot.png)
enjoy!
Shame it's been reversed, but I think it's a great gesture sharing it here :)
It's got to be one of the most amazing pedals I've ever heard, I can't believe the schematic is so simple, it's a really elegant design.
why thank you!
;D ;D ;D ;D
So the signal strength modulates the delay time which creates the pitch-shifting?
How does the blend work out: Blend between fuzz sound and pitch-shifted/delay-modulated sound?
Clips:
http://www.dvbs.eu.org/clarinot/
Sounds insane! I like it.
killer design !!
Dude.
Sick. :icon_eek:
yeah, it blends between dry fuzz, and shifted fuzz.
it can do flange-ish things on certain settings too.
A true gem amid a sea of sameness. Thanks for sharing, Doug!
[small design critique: it would be "nice" to include the RF filter on the output of the 386 (as shown in the datasheet), especially since the 2399's clock is so nearby.]
;D
This has got to be, hands down, the coolest move ever. You rule, Doug. And the Clari(not) is pure, original genius in the midst of an entire industry predicated on hiding cloned classics behind black goop. Bravo, sir.
you should send one of these to Kawabata Makoto :icon_wink:
thanks for sharign this! I'll definatelly experement!
naw!
all he needs is his trusty wah!
;D
Is there a soundclip of this thing anywhere?
EDIT: Nevermind... http://www.proguitarshop.com/product.php?ProductID=1221&CategoryID=44
See the video.
wow.
Sick...
That's all.... I just breadboarded this. Man can you get some wild sounds with this one. Would be really cool run into a delay with a feedback loop. Unfortunately I took the pt2399 out of my delay to build this!
I just finished hand-drawing a vero layout for this, and I've learned some things:
1. I am apparently a masochist
2. I've got nothing on Cathexis
3. Making my own layouts makes me learn. You should try it too.
Can't wait to verify it in a few weeks (when I can afford another parts order :icon_cool:)
Awesome. Love this pedal.
Can't wait to see the vero for this.
WOW very cool
doug if I build this maybe can I pay pal you a few pounds? ;)
Wow. I watched the videos, and I would love to build this thing. I was getting all ready to breadboard it when I came to the LED/LDR thing. Can anyone help to explain how that works, and what it is in the circuit for? I had to Google to find that and LDR is a Light Dependant Resisitor. O.K. so does it react to the LED? Anybody?
If I can't find an answer, maybe I will just breadbiard it without, and see what happens. Maybe even putting a pot in place of the LDR to see what effect it has. But I would rather understand what I am up to before I spend too much time...
It's pretty simple, the LED shines on the LDR and the LDRs resistance goes down as the brightness goes up. When you play the LED flashes, the harder you play the brighter it flashes and as the sound dies away it gets dimmer. The LDR controls the delay time, lower resistances give faster times.
I see. It is a pretty simple concept that was easy to understand as I read up on how people use these in a circuit.
Now practically speaking as far as my build, I saw what the box looks like in the videos. The LED is mounted like in a regular stomp box. I don't see any LDR on the exterior, so where is it? How does the light of the LED hit it? And since there are no values given, and no color for the LED, what kind of LDR should I use?
Ideas? Thanks!
I think I found what I'm looking for...
http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/PERKINELMER/PERKINELMER_ACTIVES-AND-PASSIVES_9800700.PDF (http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/PERKINELMER/PERKINELMER_ACTIVES-AND-PASSIVES_9800700.PDF)
yeah i was just going to post that the status led is not the led in the led/ldr combo. You can also make your own vactrol by getting an ldr at radioshack and heatshrinking your own led to it.
So, I ordered 3 different types of these variactors from Allied. I figure I will try all 3 to decide which works best. I actually found the part number from ROG's phasor project, via Google. I'm kind of excited about this "new" part, and the circuit snippet for it. I am wondering what else it might be used to control...
Anyway, I should have this guy bread boarded in a week, once I get all the parts. We'll see if I can get it working.
Doc_drop,
Let us know for sure which Vactrol works the best . I have a few left that I will use for this project.
Thanks!
Arn C.
Sure Arn. I will definately post a build report for this one.
I used a homemade photocoupler for this on the breadboard and it worked just fine. I can check the value of the LDR in that on, but I think it was around 5k-500k. I would suspect most would work fine in this circuit.
The ones I ordered were the VTL5C1, VTL5C2 and VTL5C4. I guess I'll see which works best once I get them and plug them into the circuit. The biggest difference I see is that the VTL5C2 has a turn off time of 500ms and the others are 35ms, so I guess that would be a big difference in how the thing tracks picking strength. I am looking forward to hearing the results.
If I remember correctly, from that other site, the original uses a bright white LED and an LDR, not a commercial photocoupler. Again, not sure of the resistance on the photocoupler.
I did notice that with this circuit you adjust the brigthness of the LED with the controls though, so having the right range might not be an issue.
I get what you are saying about the fall time of the photocoupler though. Should produce a bit of a different sound, however, hifidelity and this circuit are not synonymous.
Do let us know what you think once you get your order.
Here is a quote from the designer himself from that other forum, where you will also find perfboard and PCB layouts...
___________________________
Q: Maybe if Danelectro gets a hold of that schem they can build one cheap enough for all of us to afford. Just kidding of course. On a serious note , what is the range of the photo cell?
A: doenst really matter, as long as it gets down under 5k or so, and goes about 200k your good.
_____________________________________________
Now that doesn't mean you need that exact range, just to be able to reach those ranges. Cheapo Ratshack LDRs should work for this, with red, yellow, or white LEDs.
Interesting orangetones.
I'm afraid I don't know what the "other" site is, so I haven't been able to read that. Thanks for sharing.
If you guys are interested, I posted my build report here:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=75365.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=75365.0)
Short story: This guy RAWKS!!!
well, since the originator is here (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=profile;u=186),
why not ask himself?
I've done this perf layout, I've got all the parts, just need to get it built. I think the layout is correct. I'm planning to mount the LED/LDR and output cap onto the pots to keep wiring down to a minimum. Would some kind person check it over please?
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/Clarinotperf.jpg)
fyi the perf layout in the other thread is the exact one i use!
:)
Quote from: doug deeper on April 19, 2009, 07:29:00 PM
fyi the perf layout in the other thread is the exact one i use!
:)
Thanks Doug, but I wanted to do my own layout to suit the way I'm planning to box it up. By the way, which pots are LOG/LIN? The schematic isn't specific. Thanks!
I used all linear pots except for the volume. Works fine
Quote from: Cardboard Tube Samurai on April 20, 2009, 06:58:41 PM
I used all linear pots except for the volume. Works fine
Thanks, that's what I figured. I just didn't want to risk putting it together with the wrong pots and have to change them later.
I'm looking at the schematic and wondering---just where is the "fuzz" coming from? It would have to be the LM386 going full tilt, right? I don't see clipping diodes or cascaded transistors anywhere...driven hard, the PT2399 might add some blatty grit, I suppose.
Connecting pins 1 and 8 together on the 386 is what's doing it I believe.
I just breadboarded the 386 section of the circuit and it can stand on its own as a great fuzz.
Hmmm, it might be worth putting a pot between pins 1 and 8 to control the amount of fuzz...Or would that kill the volume?
A gain pot between pins one and eight would effect the volume, but it's pretty damn loud anyway :icon_eek:. I guess a volume pot on pin 5 and the gain pot together could balance it out. Some schematics for 386 effects have a volume pot on the input though.
I wonder if this is the basis for Doug Deepers other 386 based fuzz effects?
Since you have it on your breadboard, maybe it is worth a shot. I built a highly simplified Noisy Cricket recently. I didn't connect 1 and 8 on the 386 because I wanted it as clean as possible, so it seems like this might be worth trying. If you give it a shot, let us know your results.
Quote from: doc_drop on April 21, 2009, 11:26:07 AM
Hmmm, it might be worth putting a pot between pins 1 and 8 to control the amount of fuzz...Or would that kill the volume?
Check out runoffgroove's Ruby:
http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html (http://runoffgroove.com/ruby.html)
The 386 is somewhat unique (I think) as far as battery powered audio amps go, in that it has a variable gain. That's part of what makes it so fun in distortion designs, as well as mini-amps.
Quote from: doc_drop on April 21, 2009, 12:02:53 PM
Since you have it on your breadboard, maybe it is worth a shot. I built a highly simplified Noisy Cricket recently. I didn't connect 1 and 8 on the 386 because I wanted it as clean as possible, so it seems like this might be worth trying. If you give it a shot, let us know your results.
I tried a pot between pins 1 and 8 It does control the gain, but it gets pretty farty sounding at lower gains.
Oh well. Some people like farty sounding, though... :icon_wink:
Quote from: doc_drop on April 21, 2009, 12:46:15 PM
Oh well. Some people like farty sounding, though... :icon_wink:
Woah! This thing can do gated farty sounds too? Cooooooool !! :icon_biggrin:
Forgot to mention I got this thing put together on a pcb and got some real cool sounds out of it. Not exactly like the sound clips at the Pro Gear site, maybe because of the vactrol I'm using.... in fact, making the threshold pot a 2k instead of the specified 1k gave me a wider range of wackiness or control for some reason. Some of my favorite settings get me the Emerson, Lake and Palmer synth sound... so outrageous it makes me laugh out loud when playing through it!! :icon_lol:
If Tim Escobedo would've messed around with that delay chip, this is probably something like he would've come up with. His "Ugly Face" and "PWM" circuits go hand in hand with this. If you like those creations you'll definitely dig this one too.
Hey Doug, let's see the "Pitch Pirate" schematic.... PLEASE!! :icon_twisted:
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/000_0004-4.jpg)
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/000_0006-4.jpg)
Here's the layout I used, the pots took a bit of figuring out, initially some worked backwards.
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/Clarinotboards.jpg)
That's one good lookin' layout.
Has anyone figured out a 'fuzz lift' mod for this yet? So you can get the same effects but clean? I'm just in the process of doing a few mods, I've just breadboarded an LFO to pulse the LED in place of the output of the 386. Nice vibrato as well as some extreme sounds, and you can still get that 'worn out tape echo' effect.
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 06, 2009, 03:00:15 PM
Has anyone figured out a 'fuzz lift' mod for this yet? So you can get the same effects but clean? I'm just in the process of doing a few mods, I've just breadboarded an LFO to pulse the LED in place of the output of the 386. Nice vibrato as well as some extreme sounds, and you can still get that 'worn out tape echo' effect.
I think the 386 gain is controlled by pins 1 and 5. If they are jumpered like that, you get maximum gain. Adding a pot between the pins would enable you to decrease the gain.
I think in the app notes there is something about a cap and a resistor, for a gain control also.
Quote from: tiges_ tendres on May 06, 2009, 03:33:45 PM
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 06, 2009, 03:00:15 PM
Has anyone figured out a 'fuzz lift' mod for this yet? So you can get the same effects but clean? I'm just in the process of doing a few mods, I've just breadboarded an LFO to pulse the LED in place of the output of the 386. Nice vibrato as well as some extreme sounds, and you can still get that 'worn out tape echo' effect.
I think the 386 gain is controlled by pins 1 and 5. If they are jumpered like that, you get maximum gain. Adding a pot between the pins would enable you to decrease the gain.
I think in the app notes there is something about a cap and a resistor, for a gain control also.
Ah yes, but pins 1 and 8, I'll try breaking that jumper and see what happens, thanks Steve!
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 06, 2009, 03:45:57 PM
Quote from: tiges_ tendres on May 06, 2009, 03:33:45 PM
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 06, 2009, 03:00:15 PM
Has anyone figured out a 'fuzz lift' mod for this yet? So you can get the same effects but clean? I'm just in the process of doing a few mods, I've just breadboarded an LFO to pulse the LED in place of the output of the 386. Nice vibrato as well as some extreme sounds, and you can still get that 'worn out tape echo' effect.
I think the 386 gain is controlled by pins 1 and 5. If they are jumpered like that, you get maximum gain. Adding a pot between the pins would enable you to decrease the gain.
I think in the app notes there is something about a cap and a resistor, for a gain control also.
Ah yes, but pins 1 and 8, I'll try breaking that jumper and see what happens, thanks Steve!
Sorry, 1 and 8. I always get that mixed up.
yep, remove the jumper and the cap resistor that goes to ground from the same pins.
the envelope settings will be quite different though.
Quote from: doug deeper on May 06, 2009, 08:32:56 PM
yep, remove the jumper and the cap resistor that goes to ground from the same pins.
the envelope settings will be quite different though.
Thanks Doug, I've actually removed the envelope connection to the LED and added an LFO to modulate the LED/LDR instead. Sounds pretty cool, and a little more 'predictable'. It can do some real cool chorus - very Cocteau Twins. With more extreme depth settings it's into synthy type heavy modulation. The LFO I added goes into the audio range, so some weird clangy FM type sounds are also available. Slower LFO speed do that old tape echo sound really well. It's certainly fun to tinker with, and very rewarding, it's got me inspired in all sorts of ways.
thats very close to the pitch pirate!
Quote from: doug deeper on May 06, 2009, 08:50:46 PM
thats very close to the pitch pirate!
Har Jim Lad!!
You want to see what I've go planned next, a new project but definately an offshoot of this one. Delayed modulation, like the old analogue synths, where the modulation fades in only on longer sustained notes. Here's a block diagram:
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/DelayedModulationIdea.jpg)
That's cool! Care to share the lfo circuit, Rick?
Quote from: bluesdevil on May 06, 2009, 09:24:25 PM
That's cool! Care to share the lfo circuit, Rick?
I'll post up the LFO later today, and some soundclips at the weekend.
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 06, 2009, 08:57:37 PM
Quote from: doug deeper on May 06, 2009, 08:50:46 PM
thats very close to the pitch pirate!
Har Jim Lad!!
One of those rare times one is able to say this in context on an electronics forum.
Oh man Rick, I am watching this one like a hawk. You are taking that little Clari to a "whole new level"!!!!
I guess it is a good thing when a guy like you doesn't like the circuit he builds so much. ;)
Is Anyone gunna be working on a vero layout for this strange pedal? I know theres a perfectly nice perf but if there was gunna be a vero layout i'd rather use it from a personal preference point of view. I could also do a layout myself if someone would possibly be willing to check it over?
Thanks,
Scruff.
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 11:44:28 AM
Oh man Rick, I am watching this one like a hawk. You are taking that little Clari to a "whole new level"!!!!
I guess it is a good thing when a guy like you doesn't like the circuit he builds so much. ;)
Thanks Chris, I'm having a lot of fun with it, and have a whole new pedal planned as a result of my tinkering, so I'm a happy camper.
Here's the LFO I added to my Clari:
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClariLFO.jpg)
I had this LFO on the breadboard anyway for another project, I just changed the values to suit the Clari. The LFO goes from pretty slow right up to audio range. There is a limit however to how fast the LDR can react to the LED at really fast speeds, so at the maximum travel of the pot the LFO is actually going too fast for the LDR to percieve any change in brightness.
The mod itself is easy, just remove the 1K Tracking pot and substitute the 100K Speed pot, and attach the LFO output to the LED. Everything else works the same. I had very little space in my Clari build, so I managed to squeeze the LFO onto a 5x7 piece of perf.
My next mod will be to see if I can just use a switch to break the connection between pins 1 and 8 of the LM386 for a fuzz/clean switch. I just have room for a submini toggle in my enclosure (I hope).
I'm really exciited about the pedal I'm planning as a result of my tweaks on the Clari. It will do chorus, vibrato and synth type delayed modulation, where the (heavy) pitch modulation only happens on sustained notes, fading in over a specified time. And it shall be called the "Pitch Bitch" !
Well I just bent pin 1 of the LM386 and resocketed it so that pin 1 wasn't socketed. It does indeed clean up beautifully. The most lush chorus I've ever heard in fact. With humbuckers there's just a touch of grit, which is solved by rolling the guitar volume back to about 8, I may even add a resistor to ground at the input of the 386 to limit this. I just need to fit a switch to select fuzz/clean and I'm good to go. I know my pedal is now not exactly a Clari(not), but it's not so far removed and I'm really lovin it. I really recommend these mods, they enable a broad range of diverse sounds to be got from such a simple circuit. It would be possible to add the LFO and have a switch to select either envelope or LFO control of the LED, thus retaining all the original features of the Clari but adding a bunch more. Massive thanks and respect to Doug for an insporational design and for sharing.
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 07, 2009, 05:08:51 PM
I know my pedal is now not exactly a Clari(not), .
So it's a Clari(Not)(Not)? ;D
Quote from: tiges_ tendres on May 07, 2009, 06:13:40 PM
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 07, 2009, 05:08:51 PM
I know my pedal is now not exactly a Clari(not), .
So it's a Clari(Not)(Not)? ;D
No, it was a Clari(not)(not) when I did the LFO mod. Now I've done the fuzz lift switch it's a Clari(not)(not)(not). Or a Clari(not)
3. :D
O.K. I am going to reveal my ignorance here...
Rick, looking at your LFO circuit, is this an entirely separate section of the circuit? I assumed so, but you said the thing about substituting the speed pot for the tracking pot. But the speed pot is shown in the middle of your circuit, so I am not sure how to do that if it is separate.
Also, you say to attach the LFO output to the LED. Do you mean the anode of the LED side of the LDR? Also, is the output of the LFO the filled in triangle symbol on the right side of your schematic pointing up from the (2) 100K resistors? And lastly what is the purpose of the LED in your circuit, to show the LFO rate maybe?
Sorry to ask so many questions, but I am really interested in what you are doing here. I especially love the idea of turning the distortion part of the circuit off and on. And I have been looking for a chorus circuit.
Thanks!
Chris
if you want it cleaner, put a 100K resistor in series with the input. (after removing the pin 1-8 jumper and all that).
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 07:04:52 PM
Rick, looking at your LFO circuit, is this an entirely separate section of the circuit? I assumed so, but you said the thing about substituting the speed pot for the tracking pot. But the speed pot is shown in the middle of your circuit, so I am not sure how to do that if it is separate.
Yes the LFO is a completely seperate circuit. I removed my 1K Tracking pot and snipped off the wire (at the board) feeding it from the LM386. I also removed R8. You don't need C14 either, but I left it on the board as it does no harm. That leaves the LED without anything at it's anode, and it's cathode grounded.
The two connections to the Speed pot go to the little board I did with the LFO on it. Another connection goes to the anode of the LED.
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 07:04:52 PM
Also, you say to attach the LFO output to the LED. Do you mean the anode of the LED side of the LDR?
The output of the LFO is on the right, it goes to the LED via the 100K resistor marked with a red star.
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 07:04:52 PM
Also, is the output of the LFO the filled in triangle symbol on the right side of your schematic pointing up from the (2) 100K resistors?
No, that indicates the +9 volt power to the circuit. Those two 100K resistors are the vref for the opamp.
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 07:04:52 PM
And lastly what is the purpose of the LED in your circuit, to show the LFO rate maybe?
The LED blinks on and off varying the resistance of the LDR which in turn varies the PT2399's delay rate. As you will have gathered, it's the same LED that was in my Clari before I modified it, but instead of the envelope affecting it the LFO is instead.
No problem about the questions Chris, it's how we learn, and I ask a lot too!
I know you like your Clari just as it is, so instead of modding it why not just build another like mine - a Clari(not)
3!
Here's the little board I did for my LFO if that helps, it's really tight cos I had so little space to play with. I could easily do a complete perf layout for my Clari(not)
3 if that helps.
Rick
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClariLFOperf.jpg)
EDIT: R1 and R3 are mounted under the dual opamp. I used a couple of 4 pin SIL sockets to enable this instead of an 8 pin DIL. Note the grey wire between d1 and e7 (saved a bit of board space!).
Hey Chris, Rick seems to be a busy man so I'll step in and help out. What hes done is similar to the LFO mod on the uglyface which means that instead of having the envelope created by the voltage signal of the 386 driving the LED he has substituted an LFO, low frequency oscillator to drive the LED so when he says to replace the tracking pot with the speed pot its only on the enclosure because you won't be using the envelope signal so won't need the tracking pot (which is sensitivety on the uglyface).
The triangle to the far left goes to +9V and helps to set the bias point for the opamps, the 2 100k's being a voltage divider between ground and +9V to get the 4.5V bias. The LED at the right hand side is the source to drive the LDR so the point just after the last 100k on the right is where you'd join it to your vactrol anode. If you look at this
(http://www.avwz35.dsl.pipex.com/uglyface%20lfo%20&%20mods.jpg)
and to the far right you can see where a switch operates to switch between the output of the 386, pin 5, and the output of an LFO. The sensitivity 1k pot in the diagram has an LED to ground from the centre lug and this is used with an LDR so it's basically the same choice of functions except in this case they are switched whereas Rick has dropped the envelope function and gone straight for an LFO.
(http://www.geocities.com/tpe123/folkurban/fuzz/uglyface.gif)
Two other replies have come in but I'll still put this in as you may realise you can actually have both clari(not) and clari(not)3 which may make clari(not)+3
O.K. Rick. I am getting you now. Since my first Clari is all boxed up and pretty, I was planning on doing this on my breadboard. Too bad I don't have any more prefab vactrols. I guess it is time for me to try and make my own instead of buying one.
Uh, I am sure there would be many people interested in your perf layout if you have the inspiration to make one and post it. But, I would feel guilty if you did it just for little ole me.
Sean, thanks for your clarifications as well. Between the both of you I have learned more today than I would ever have expected.
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 07:49:50 PM
Uh, I am sure there would be many people interested in your perf layout if you have the inspiration to make one and post it. But, I would feel guilty if you did it just for little ole me.
Sure, I'll do you a layout. But it depends how you want to box it up, therefore what shape you need the board to be. Have a look at the original layout I posted. I always prefer to do a seperate board just for the pots, so I can do you one similar to that, or one thats more like Doug's layout. Up to you.
Wow, I owe you several beers! I wouldn't mind trying one of your modular type designs with the pots on a separate board. It would be something new to try. So, if you want to do one like that for "us" "we" wouldn't complain...
On a side note, I am a synth guy too. You mentioned your modular synth. Is there a web site to check it out? I have built a Paia Fatman, but nothing from scratch, so I am really interested in your synth work.
Thanks Rick, very kind to share! I've already got mine all boxed up with artwork and everything, but I'm gotta rip the circuit out and try your mods. Hopefully I can put the extra mod controls on one of the sides without messing things up. I'll probably just end up building another with all the extras..
Very cool circuit... I'm pretty excited with the original and all the mods being developed.
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 08:11:40 PM
Wow, I owe you several beers! I wouldn't mind trying one of your modular type designs with the pots on a separate board. It would be something new to try. So, if you want to do one like that for "us" "we" wouldn't complain...
On a side note, I am a synth guy too. You mentioned your modular synth. Is there a web site to check it out? I have built a Paia Fatman, but nothing from scratch, so I am really interested in your synth work.
Ok, I'll get a layout together over the next week.
My modular synth is all perfed (!!!) from scratch. The VCO's are based on the Oberheim SEM but with Moog temp stability mods. There's a Moog Prodigy transistor ladder filter clone and a Oberheim SEM multimode CA3080 filter clone. Four envelopes which are Roland 100m clones. Three Roland 100m VCA clones (CA3080). Two Roland 100m sample/hold clones. Roland 100m clone ring mod and noise. Four Roland 100m signal gate clones. Four Roland 100m CV/audio mixer clones. Roland gate delay clone. A clock divider I designed around a CD4024. A couple of sequencers based around CD4022's. I built it about ten years ago, it doesn't look nice but works well enough. I'm planning to overhaul it into 19" rack format with nice graphics and more sequencers this year.
I also have a 5 module Roland 100m, Juno 60, ARP Odyssey (whiteface), Rhodes 73 MK1, Wurlitzer EP200a, Hammond XB1, Nord Lead and a Synthia A clone that my brother built. And a baby grand. Gear whore!
This is a good site for synths, PCBs available there too: http://electro-music.com/forum/index.php?f=112
That is just too cool about your synth work. Do you have any recordings made with it? Any pics? I'll check out the link you mentioned.
No wonder you know as much as you do. That must have been a great education building that thing!
Quote from: doc_drop on May 07, 2009, 08:41:21 PM
That is just too cool about your synth work. Do you have any recordings made with it? Any pics? I'll check out the link you mentioned.
No pics, nothing to see really just plain black painted panels. I didn't do decals back then, that's why I want to rehouse it. Here's a couple of 'soundscapes' I did a while ago just using modular synths/analogue sequencers. No keyboard, no drum machine, no overdubs, just loads of wires and knob tweaking.
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/967492/Modular%20One.mp3
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/967492/Modular%20Two.mp3
Sorry to go all go all science fictiony here but isn't that how they created the doctor who theme? (I studied music tech and hold an interest, im not a sci fi fanatic) no keyboards lots of analogue synth and tape messing.
Yep, Scruffie.
In the early days synths weren't necessarily keyboard controlled. I had the pleasure of seeing John Cage, David Tudor and other early electronic music composer/experimenters many times in conjunction with the Merce Cunningham dance company, where I studied in NY for a couple of years in my 20's. I can't say I liked all of it, but once in a while they would squeeze the most evocative sounds you can imagine out of those wiry boxes!
Rick, I will check out your sounds at home this weekend where I can crank 'em. BTW, I like pics of crappy looking panels with lots of spaghetti hanging off, but that is a personal issue...
Chris
Wow i'd love to get an opportunity to see something like that, even a modern day version, I really like using the old technology in music tech but it's horribly frowned upon if you try now it sadly seems... possibly with founded reasons, but a combination of modern and old atleast would be nice but anyway going off topic there, thanks for the comment though.
Scruffie,
I tried a Google search for John Cage performances and found several:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=you+tube+john+cage+performance
I think there is still room for alternative electronic, but it won't get you on the radio. Although there are people like NIN who I feel manage both.
john cage was a hack, and a charlaton.
But he is better known world wide than most pedal hackers...Even the ones with really attractive avatars.
touche my friend...
:)
And you know I'm just being silly since I am also one of those pedal hackers...And I don't even have an avatar!
I just want to cast my vote for naming these mutant "Clari's" ...I think you should call them Clari(nor), Clari(nand), Clari(xor), etc.
Can you clari(fy)? ::)
Installed my fuzz lift switch today. Just out of interest, I also breadboarded a stock Clari to see if the envelope still works with the fuzz lift, it doesn't, the LED is nowhere near lighting up, there's just not enough juice. So with a stock Clari with fuzz lift what you get is just single repeats with no mod. Worth adding the fuzz lift though if you add the LFO too, really nice chorus and vibrato, very similar to the soundclips slacker posted for his Echobase in that respect.
Here's my suggested layout for what my stock Clari(not) mutated into - the Clari(not)3. The layout is designed to fit into a Hammond enclosure (can't remember it's code) 4.7" L x 3.7" W x 1.34" H. (120mm x 95mm x 35mm). The layout is designed for the enclosure to be 'landscape' as opposed to portrait'.
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClarinotCubed.gif)
The value of R8 is pretty important. I chose it so that with the Depth pot at minimum the LFO had no effect. You might have to tweak it upwards or downwards depending on the brightness of your particular LED.
R14 is a pulldown resistor - I'm still checking this one out, so the value is just nominal. It's there to ensure the clean sound is completely clean. I'll confirm the appropriate value later.
EDIT: I guess the Fuzz Lift switch could be a second 3PDT - it would be insane though, as you'd need to drop the volume substantially, unless you used spare pole of the switch to send some of the signal to ground via a carefully chosen resistor. The Fuzz Lift switch could even be replaced by a pot to dial in how much fuzz you want. My Fuzz Lift is an ultra submini toggle - all I had room for, as i did these mods to my existing Clari!
Oops, P1 should be Log (not) Lin!
Thanks Rick!
I will definately be putting one of these together. Thanks for posting the layout, and thanks for coming up with this most interesting variation on the circuit. I look forward to any sound files you can post. This will be the chorus pedal I have been looking for!
Hey Rick, any chance you could share the diy file? or maybe just make the parts a little more transparent so the connections are more evident? Thanks for your work on this!
Quote from: Barcode80 on May 11, 2009, 02:42:31 PM
Hey Rick, any chance you could share the diy file? or maybe just make the parts a little more transparent so the connections are more evident? Thanks for your work on this!
Sure, I'll do a new transparent version of the layout and post it up later. I tried posting the DIY files but it didn't work.
Rick
Here ya go:
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/Clari3.gif)
Here's a quick montage/soundclip of a few sounds from my heavily modified Clari(not) Cubed, featuring my now-legendary-much-in-demand-below-average-guitar-style:
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/967492/Clari%28not%29%20Cubed.mp3
The very first chord is clean, no effect.
Signal path:
Squier Telecaster Custom (bridge humbucker) > Clari(not) Cubed > Roland Bolt 60 watt tube combo > Shure SM58 > Event Echo Gina 24 soundcard > Wavelab
No other processing. I rolled off the guitar volume to about 7 for the clean bits.
hi,
I intend to build this box and i wonder, what LDR resistance/value should I use? because where I got only LDR 77k..340k@10lux and LDR 1k5..5k@10lux which one will be the best? If I use 3mm bright white LED will it be OK?
thnx,
Ed
Quote from: The French connection on May 10, 2009, 01:03:59 PM
Can you clari(fy)? ::)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logic_gates#Symbols
I just built the Clari(not) using Ckyvicks layout. My new favorite effect. Check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Dd-oGNmUZI
cool!
soundin good! ;D
just a little fyi!
the name of this pedal is very close to the word "clarinet".
clarinot....as in, its is not a clarinet!
hi guys!
what value LDR is better to be used?
Ed
I think you need a LDR with an on resistance of 5k or under and off resistance of at least 500k.
???
the local shop can only sell:
LDR 77k..340k@10lux
LDR 1k5..5k@10lux
I'm quite lost!!!! or maybe VTL5C4 will do the job?? anyone who built this what part he used!! plz!!
thnx anyway,
Ed
Mine worked with either a VTL5C4 or a VTL5C2. Give it a socket so you can try "before you buy".
I noticed there wasn't a pcb layout anywhere for this, so I worked one up. Not the most compact thing I've ever done, but it should get the job done, and the lead spacing should make all of the components sit nicely.
I haven't built this yet. So it is unverified; please let me know if you build it! I hope to get to it in the next couple weeks.
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/3674/clarinot.gif)
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/3234/clarinotpnp.gif)
Enjoy!
Does the distance between the ldr and the led make any difference in sound ?
Quote from: dr.benway on May 27, 2009, 01:38:59 PM
Does the distance between the ldr and the led make any difference in sound ?
Not really, I usually make up LDR/LED optocouplers with the two devices actually touching. But a few millimetres won't hurt. You do need go shielding from external light sources though, or the LDR will be 'always on'.
thanks for your help rick.
I think I'll try the cubed version soon.
Quote from: dr.benway on May 27, 2009, 01:48:19 PM
thanks for your help rick.
I think I'll try the cubed version soon.
Cool, did you get your Clari(not) working?
yeah got it working once I realized I'd forgotten to solder the output of the LM385 to the 10uF cap.
would like to be able to control the amount of fuzz in the signal whence my desire to build the cubed version.
Quote from: dr.benway on May 28, 2009, 02:49:00 AM
yeah got it working once I realized I'd forgotten to solder the output of the LM385 to the 10uF cap.
Ah, good old analogue-human-error-mojo!
Quote from: dr.benway on May 28, 2009, 02:49:00 AM
would like to be able to control the amount of fuzz in the signal whence my desire to build the cubed version.
If you build the cubed version try a pot between pins 1 and 8, it should vary the amount of fuzz, not sure what value, maybe try 100K. I used a submini toggle just to break the connection, as I had no room in my enclosure for another pot.
yeah hours of analogue human error mojo staring at the board...John Cage would've dug it.
so, I began by breaking the jumper between 1 and 8 and putting a 100k resistor at the input just to see what the sound was like.
Seems like the gain is important though to get that slipping and sliding madness (I think that's what both you and Doug Deeper mentioned).
Quote from: dr.benway on May 28, 2009, 12:05:36 PM
yeah hours of analogue human error mojo staring at the board...John Cage would've dug it.
so, I began by breaking the jumper between 1 and 8 and putting a 100k resistor at the input just to see what the sound was like.
Seems like the gain is important though to get that slipping and sliding madness (I think that's what both you and Doug Deeper mentioned).
Yup, you lose the envelope when you go clean. However, that's not the case with the Cubed version, ie the LFO works the same clean or fuzzed!
Ok I got my LFO module together on a separate board. Can I solder the 9v wire to the 9v point on the other board ? Does it really matter where it goes as long as it's getting power ?
I'm not getting anything from the module. Everything seems wired right, but the Led's not doing anything.
some more questions :
do I remove the wire from C13 (10uF) on the stock layout ?
does lug 1 on the speed pot go need to go anywhere ?
after breaking the jumper on pins 1 and 8 of the LM386 I can remove the cap and resistor to ground ?
What layout did you use for the LFO? Just to be clear, the LED anode should now go to the output of the LFO (via R8) instead of being fed by the 386 via C13. The key here is probably R8 in my Clari(not) Cubed layout, I used a 100K because my LED was ultra bright. Depending on your LED you could use a lower value or remove that resistor altogether. The way I did it was to hook up my (built) Clari to the LFO which was on the breadboard, I changed a few resistor values until I found the right one. I suspect that your LED might need a much lower resistor, as its not lighting up at all. Try a 100K trimpot in place of R8 and tweak it until you get something useable.
I'm pretty sure the LFO on the Cubed layout is correct, though I used the tiny daughter board layout posted earlier in the thread. It would be worth checking whatever layout you used against the LFO schematic.
Yup you can link the 9 volt to anywhere that's 9 volt on the main board.
There is no need for C13 if you are converting your Clari(not) permanently to the Cubed version.
You only need to wire the Speed pot as a variable resistor, so lug 1 doesn't need to go anywhere.
You can remove the cap and resistor from pin 8, or just leave them there, they won't do any harm. I left mine in place because I used a switch between pins 1 and 8 for fuzz/clean.
Good luck, report back!
Quote from: doug deeper on May 19, 2009, 11:22:17 PM
just a little fyi!
the name of this pedal is very close to the word "clarinet".
clarinot....as in, its is not a clarinet!
Doug - I still don't get it??? It's (not) a saxophone either.
And it's (not) a xylophone. And it's (not) a cello. And it's (not) a banjo.
And it's (not) a sitar.
And it's (not) a ukelale!
not a clarinet = clarinot
clair-ah-not
not clarey not.
I call mine "DROP-L-Ganger" because all my pedals must have DROP in their name, and this circuit makes a twisted twin of the original sound... :icon_wink:
Quote from: doug deeper on May 29, 2009, 03:40:56 PM
not a clarinet = clarinot
clair-ah-not
not clarey not.
Nope, still don't get it. But I can be exceptionally slow on the uptake sometimes. :icon_eek:
Quote from: doc_drop on May 29, 2009, 03:59:49 PM
I call mine "DROP-L-Ganger" because all my pedals must have DROP in their name, and this circuit makes a twisted twin of the original sound... :icon_wink:
Did you build a Cubed version then Chris? How are you liking it?
No Rick. I got side tracked making some "utility" circuits. I built a Whisker Biscuit fuzz and put it in a box with a Prof. Tweed. And I built a Tonemender that I put in a box with a Condor cab sim. Basically I am trying to get as good a sound out of my Ruby-ish bench amp as I can. The Tonemender/Condor combo is working great for that purpose. (I have to post some pics, since I used your projector film technique to finish all of these, and I feel like I am really getting the hang of it.)
Now I am ready to go on a chorus quest. I am planning on doing a Zombie Chorus this weekend...so I am not sure when I will be "cubing my 'not." But I want to real soon, so it is high up on my list. Plus I want to try having a pot controlling fuzz amount. But for now it is only in my head.
Thanks again Rick,
I used the separate LFO module. I'm sure it's correct.
tried subbing a 100k trimpot for the R8, no dice.
something's probably wrong with my circuit. I'm putting it aside for a few days.
hi,
I breadboarded clari(not) and it sounds SUPER. It really melted my brain :icon_mrgreen: But I've noticed one thing, when I rotate the 78L05 it has no effect on the sound! Is it meant to be so or I made something wrong :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
Doug, Rick thnx for the schematic and perf layout!!! I will definitely upgrade my clari(not) to cubed version :icon_cool:
Ed
Quote from: edd101 on June 01, 2009, 03:20:56 AM
hi,
I breadboarded clari(not) and it sounds SUPER. It really melted my brain :icon_mrgreen: But I've noticed one thing, when I rotate the 78L05 it has no effect on the sound! Is it meant to be so or I made something wrong :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
Doug, Rick thnx for the schematic and perf layout!!! I will definitely upgrade my clari(not) to cubed version :icon_cool:
Ed
the pt2399 runs off 9 volts... for a while. turn that regulator the wrong way and everything will still work probably for a while, but you are going to send 9 volts to a chip that is designed for no more than 5 volts so it's going to die quickly.
Quote from: Barcode80 on June 01, 2009, 11:03:42 AM
Quote from: edd101 on June 01, 2009, 03:20:56 AM
hi,
I breadboarded clari(not) and it sounds SUPER. It really melted my brain :icon_mrgreen: But I've noticed one thing, when I rotate the 78L05 it has no effect on the sound! Is it meant to be so or I made something wrong :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
Doug, Rick thnx for the schematic and perf layout!!! I will definitely upgrade my clari(not) to cubed version :icon_cool:
Ed
the pt2399 runs off 9 volts... for a while. turn that regulator the wrong way and everything will still work probably for a while, but you are going to send 9 volts to a chip that is designed for no more than 5 volts so it's going to die quickly.
thank you!!!now it's clear to me ;)
My Clari(not) was working perfectly for about a week, now when I turn the blend knob to the effected signal there's a bunch of noise, but the delayed signal is still there. Could this be the result of what you just mentioned?
Quote from: Barcode80 on June 01, 2009, 11:03:42 AM
Quote from: edd101 on June 01, 2009, 03:20:56 AM
hi,
I breadboarded clari(not) and it sounds SUPER. It really melted my brain :icon_mrgreen: But I've noticed one thing, when I rotate the 78L05 it has no effect on the sound! Is it meant to be so or I made something wrong :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
Doug, Rick thnx for the schematic and perf layout!!! I will definitely upgrade my clari(not) to cubed version :icon_cool:
Ed
the pt2399 runs off 9 volts... for a while. turn that regulator the wrong way and everything will still work probably for a while, but you are going to send 9 volts to a chip that is designed for no more than 5 volts so it's going to die quickly.
possibly, could also be a short somewhere once you got it boxed up. does the noise sound like a woosh?
Quote from: Barcode80 on June 02, 2009, 12:46:25 PM
possibly, could also be a short somewhere once you got it boxed up. does the noise sound like a woosh?
It's just alot of background noise with the delayed signal. I changed nothing, it just started happening.
Does a dying PT2399 whoosh?
often, yes.
Quote from: rousejeremy on June 02, 2009, 12:16:08 PM
My Clari(not) was working perfectly for about a week, now when I turn the blend knob to the effected signal there's a bunch of noise, but the delayed signal is still there. Could this be the result of what you just mentioned?
Quote from: Barcode80 on June 01, 2009, 11:03:42 AM
Quote from: edd101 on June 01, 2009, 03:20:56 AM
hi,
I breadboarded clari(not) and it sounds SUPER. It really melted my brain :icon_mrgreen: But I've noticed one thing, when I rotate the 78L05 it has no effect on the sound! Is it meant to be so or I made something wrong :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
Doug, Rick thnx for the schematic and perf layout!!! I will definitely upgrade my clari(not) to cubed version :icon_cool:
Ed
the pt2399 runs off 9 volts... for a while. turn that regulator the wrong way and everything will still work probably for a while, but you are going to send 9 volts to a chip that is designed for no more than 5 volts so it's going to die quickly.
when i breadboarded mine i've put a 5v reg (The 78L05 I used is TO-92) as it is shown in Rick's layout and when the delay pot was set more than 12 o'clock it started to osscillate and made a lot of strange noise! then I rotated the 78L05 and all the osscillation and strange noise was gone and the overall sound became better!!! the only thing that bothers me now is a hiss in the repeats. I know that it is the nature of pt2933 :'( In my rebote2 the repeats are MUCH better sounding and almost clean :icon_exclaim:
Does your clari(not) have the hiss/dirt in the repeats or is it normal ???
Ed
Quote from: edd101 on June 03, 2009, 03:47:33 AM
Quote from: rousejeremy on June 02, 2009, 12:16:08 PM
My Clari(not) was working perfectly for about a week, now when I turn the blend knob to the effected signal there's a bunch of noise, but the delayed signal is still there. Could this be the result of what you just mentioned?
Quote from: Barcode80 on June 01, 2009, 11:03:42 AM
Quote from: edd101 on June 01, 2009, 03:20:56 AM
hi,
I breadboarded clari(not) and it sounds SUPER. It really melted my brain :icon_mrgreen: But I've noticed one thing, when I rotate the 78L05 it has no effect on the sound! Is it meant to be so or I made something wrong :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
Doug, Rick thnx for the schematic and perf layout!!! I will definitely upgrade my clari(not) to cubed version :icon_cool:
Ed
the pt2399 runs off 9 volts... for a while. turn that regulator the wrong way and everything will still work probably for a while, but you are going to send 9 volts to a chip that is designed for no more than 5 volts so it's going to die quickly.
when i breadboarded mine i've put a 5v reg (The 78L05 I used is TO-92) as it is shown in Rick's layout and when the delay pot was set more than 12 o'clock it started to osscillate and made a lot of strange noise! then I rotated the 78L05 and all the osscillation and strange noise was gone and the overall sound became better!!! the only thing that bothers me now is a hiss in the repeats. I know that it is the nature of pt2933 :'( In my rebote2 the repeats are MUCH better sounding and almost clean :icon_exclaim:
Does your clari(not) have the hiss/dirt in the repeats or is it normal ???
Ed
Yup, the reapeats are noisy, but the fuzz sounds fine.
Well if you compare the filter section of the clarinot with eg. any of the other pt2399 delays (echo base, rebote or magnus) you'll quickly see that filtering was not considered here. This thing is meant to be noisy ;D
Quote from: ~arph on June 03, 2009, 08:41:26 AM
Well if you compare the filter section of the clarinot with eg. any of the other pt2399 delays (echo base, rebote or magnus) you'll quickly see that filtering was not considered here. This thing is meant to be noisy ;D
Yeah the fuzz hides the hiss. On my modded version with fuzz-lift the hiss is more noticable at slower delay times. I prefer to think of it as a 'bonus' white noise generator and phase it for whooshy coolness. :icon_eek:
anyone know what effect a higher value pot in place of the 1k would yield? I have no 1k, smallest on hand right now is 10k i believe...
hi everyone!
for the past weekend i can't get to sleep at night :icon_frown: I've upgreaded my breadboarded working clari(not) to cubed version using the Ricks layout and can't get it working :( :( :( for two days i've been tracing shorts and checking my build but with no result!!! no sound comes out and the LED doen't blink!!! has anyone built the cubed version using the layout??? plzz guys help me out!!!!
ED
Quote from: edd101 on June 07, 2009, 07:53:40 AM
hi everyone!
for the past weekend i can't get to sleep at night :icon_frown: I've upgreaded my breadboarded working clari(not) to cubed version using the Ricks layout and can't get it working :( :( :( for two days i've been tracing shorts and checking my build but with no result!!! no sound comes out and the LED doen't blink!!! has anyone built the cubed version using the layout??? plzz guys help me out!!!!
ED
I don't understand how you have breadboarded my layout, as my layout is for perf.....?
No sound coming out is a little worrying, my mods really don't affect the audio path. The key to getting the LFO LED running is to have the correct value for R8 on my perf layout. I used a 100K here as my LED was ultra bright. With other LEDs this value needs to be much smaller. See the note on the LFO schematic I posted, try using a trimmer and tweaking it in.
I don't understand how you have breadboarded my layout, as my layout is for perf.....?
sorry, my mistake i misprinted :icon_redface:
i also used super bright LED! maybe when i upgreaded the existing clari(not) i've made some silly mistake that i can't spot :-\. i'll check everything again :icon_mrgreen:
thnx Rick
i used the separate lfo module.
i just realized my super brite was dead for some unknown reason. subbed in a standard red led, removed the R8 resistor and finally saw the led light up.
only problem now is i'm not getting any modulation when i adjust the speed pot. it should blink as i turn the pot shouldn't it ?
any ideas what might be the cause ?
Quote from: dr.benway on June 08, 2009, 12:55:24 PM
i used the separate lfo module.
i just realized my super brite was dead for some unknown reason. subbed in a standard red led, removed the R8 resistor and finally saw the led light up.
only problem now is i'm not getting any modulation when i adjust the speed pot. it should blink as i turn the pot shouldn't it ?
any ideas what might be the cause ?
Yeah, there's something wrong there, the LED should be flashing. Check your LFO build against the schematic. 10uf cap oriented correctly?
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClariLFOperf.jpg
yeah, 10uF oriented correctly. the + does go to R5 right ? could R8 alone be responsible for the problem ? I tried no resistor, a few different values under a 100k and a 220k pot to tweak cause I had nothing else lying around but always a steady red glow. I'll have to check for a bad connection somewhere maybe.
Quote from: dr.benway on June 09, 2009, 06:04:17 PM
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClariLFOperf.jpg
Pins 1 and 2 are connected on that layout, not very obvious, but clear if you cross reference to the schematic.
Quote from: dr.benway on June 09, 2009, 06:04:17 PM
the + does go to R5 right ?
Do you mean + volts? No. Or the + non inverting input of the opamp? Yes.
With a standard red LED R4 on that LFO layout could be a really small value, maybe 1K?
Here's a 'reveal' view of that LFO layout:
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/CubedLFO.jpg)
ok, it took me a couple of beers and some time to find my mistake (wrong resistor value):icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
At last I got it working! It turned out that TL062 was also non working so I borrowed TL072 from my rebote delay and finaly I got some sound :)
The 3mm LED that I used started to glow/pulsate with the turn of the SPEED pot, but it isn't so bright. I'll play with the R8 value to get the best result (my current R8 value is 100k). I also put a 100pF cap parallel with R14(1M) to eliminate RF interference.
The sound is very cool and it is possible to get lots cool noise/sound effects :icon_wink: from chorusy to delay madness :icon_twisted: The only thing that bothers is that there is a volume drop between clean and fuzz lift and when I max the the clean signal with no fuzz I hear LFO ticking...but overall the cubed clari(not) is super!!!!
thnx Rick
Ed
Pins 1 and 2 on TL062 oh missed that.
by + I was referring to the + pin on the 10 uF cap going to R5.
Away for a few days, I'll try drinking some beers and fixing it up when I get back (seemed to work for EDD101).
finally works. thnaks all for your help.
I think this is one of the first pedals I've built that went straight away. It's wonderful!
Used a bright white LED and an LDR from the surlus store that goes to about a meg dark and a few k under light.
I performed with it last night and someone asked if it was a ring modulator, but I've never actually head a RM so I couldn't say, but it did some interesting kinda bleeping and tinging sounds, very musical actually, at rest which was really nice.
I haven't lbelled the knobs yet so I had to pick it up and look underneath once in a while to figure out what I was doing ???
Maybe a parallel input, buffered with emitter follower, to two LM386's with the clean on doing the signal to the 2399 and the fuzzed out original driving the LED?
Right I just tried to do a vero for this... it's disturbing... I mean i'm not great at them but this has come out terribly, so messy and 14 strips by 34 holes which is huge compared to ricks nice and tight perf... is anyone else trying to do a vero? I'm looking at you Cathexis :icon_eek:.. (I love your vero work) may just give in on getting one though and try my first etch.
I'd post it up anyway... but I dunno how to post images on here.
I was thinking about doing a vero for this, I've never done one harder than ROG's 3 Legged Dog though. I'll try it tonight.
Oh right, awesome, just got 2 PT2399 in the post so be nice to put one in this especially with my love for vero, etching doesn't appeal really... So I look forward to seeing your efforts!
Cheers,
Scruffie.
Scruffie, get a photobucket page going and when they are loaded from your PC just copy them as a direct link and hit the image tab above, which is the second along in the middle row (above the smileys ;D) and paste in the link.
http://photobucket.com/ (http://photobucket.com/)
Another account! oohhh goddd lol, guess this forum is a bit too big to attatch them straight in... shoulda seen that coming, well I will post it, but i'l see what svstee comes up with first to see if it's worth bothering (or saving my embarrasment of putting it up)
Quote from: Scruffie on June 18, 2009, 01:05:43 PM
Right I just tried to do a vero for this... it's disturbing... I mean i'm not great at them but this has come out terribly, so messy and 14 strips by 34 holes which is huge compared to ricks nice and tight perf... is anyone else trying to do a vero? I'm looking at you Cathexis :icon_eek:.. (I love your vero work) may just give in on getting one though and try my first etch.
I'd post it up anyway... but I dunno how to post images on here.
Perfrocksverosucks!
fanboy...
Lol sorry Rick... gotta agree with the fanboy comment... cause VeroROCKSPerfSUCKS yeah I went there... Why couldn't you be a veroer... your layouts are so nice but there just on the wrong type of board.
No No. You're all wrong! rockROCKSsuckSUCKSveroPERFS! (But you can still do a tighter layout on perf..... :icon_evil:)
I went there...and I pitched a tent!
Yea rockROCKS i'l give you that... vero's still better, tighter layout or not (you can still get it tight on vero, just takes a bit more thinking...)
Yea I went there, pitched the tent and caught the STI
Touche!!! :D
Quote from: svstee on June 18, 2009, 02:09:24 PM
I was thinking about doing a vero for this, I've never done one harder than ROG's 3 Legged Dog though. I'll try it tonight.
Did you get anywhere with your attempt? Or have you not had a chance, just wondering as I might give it one more shot aswell, got a spare PT2399 & LM386 lying around burning a hole in my electronics boxes pocket.
Sorry, I started but have been a bit busy. I'll try to finish it tomorrow.
Well I'l start mine, see how it goes, atleast I know how wrong I went last time now, yours will most likely come out better though lol.
Quote from: svstee on June 18, 2009, 02:09:24 PM
I was thinking about doing a vero for this, I've never done one harder than ROG's 3 Legged Dog though. I'll try it tonight.
lol...my vero is on paper or I'd post it. I have yet to build it though. Soon.
Noooo lol, how big did you get it down to? Give me something to aim to.
You guys were right, of course. I had the 78L05 reversed and fried the PT2399. Everything is back in order.
I'd like to hear more samples of the cubed version too.
Quote from: Scruffie on June 24, 2009, 11:22:52 AM
Noooo lol, how big did you get it down to? Give me something to aim to.
haha--it wasn't much bigger than the perfboard layout that's been floating around...
Question: Will a JRC386 do the job?
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 03, 2009, 03:01:53 PM
Question: Will a JRC386 do the job?
I used an LM386N1, the lowest of the low. I would expect JRC to work just fine - there're supposed to be better than the LM's aren't they?
I guess, but mine sound like a lasergun so I guess something is wrong. No delay, no fuss, just that lasergun piooooooooo piooooooooooo pioooooo
giant DO'H! I haven't grounded the second board... Update will follow shortly.. jeeees
ok so I did it, and now the guitar come through even when volume at zero. Extreme oscillation and not a cool effect at all ( I realise that's my fault!).
Questions: Is this a "no battery, supply only" FX
Shoult I be able to see the LED light up? (it doesn't)
Is lug 1 and 2 on P4 both connected to top of LDR?
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 03, 2009, 03:33:39 PM
Questions: Is this a "no battery, supply only" FX
I think battery should be fine.
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 03, 2009, 03:33:39 PM
Shoult I be able to see the LED light up? (it doesn't)
Yes - what LED are you using? Do you have the correct polarity?
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 03, 2009, 03:33:39 PM
Is lug 1 and 2 on P4 both connected to top of LDR?
On my layout the top of the LDR connects to lug 2 only - that part of the layout is kind of tough to work out, but if you cross-reference to the schematic you'll get the picture.
Yes... now the LED is the correct way. That what I get for not thinking :D Now I can see a flash when I insert the DC jack, but its not flashING... Any thoughts about this?
What's working, what isn't? Delay time, mix and volume working? If the LED isnt reacting to the input signal there's an issue between the input and the led, ie around the 386. Is the effect passing signal, and do you have adjustable single repeats?
Hard to hear. The volume is working, I know because the horrible sounds go away when turned down :P The others interact in making various versions of noise and pitch to the oscillation. The voltage over Q1 is correct.
Is the LED supposed to flash or stay constant? Am I supposed to change rate of flashing or the brightness of the light?
I'll go over the entire board one more time just to check, but I appreciate your help. Nice to know what to look for
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 03, 2009, 04:25:07 PM
Is the LED supposed to flash or stay constant? Am I supposed to change rate of flashing or the brightness of the light?
The LED should flash on when you hit a chord, and fade off as the chord fades. Try setting Track and Depth to minimum - that way you should just get a single repeat, controllable by the Delay pot. The turn track and Depth up just a bit at a time and see what happens.
Nothing different I'm affraid. I'll continue tomorrow, it's night over here now.
I can't find anything wrong still! All the voltages comply, all the parts are the right way...
I'll build another one to see if I can get that one to work. Let me ask, how important are the cap-values on the 2399? Don't know how many 100' I have left. Can I use 150's ?
I shouldn't think the values of the electrolytics are critical. But the smaller value caps around the PT2399 provide some filtering (which I don't think is really optimal in this pedal). I'd just use values close to those specified - you may even improve the filtering that way.
I got it! It was 1 bad 386 and 2 bad 2399 (i should stop using used parts), and some less than fresh OBW but it finally works and I love it! This is an awesome pedal! Is there anything it can't do?!? I built the non-cubed version btw
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 04, 2009, 06:52:07 PM
I got it! It was 1 bad 386 and 2 bad 2399 (i should stop using used parts), and some less than fresh OBW but it finally works and I love it! This is an awesome pedal! Is there anything it can't do?!? I built the non-cubed version btw
;D
frequencycentral - permission to post layout on Norwegian forum? Some DIY'ers love what I'm talking about :D
the PGS vid for this pedal makes me want to build it
thanks for the schem!
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 05, 2009, 11:50:29 AM
frequencycentral - permission to post layout on Norwegian forum? Some DIY'ers love what I'm talking about :D
Of course, no problem at all - maybe also mention that the LDR only connects to lug 2 of the depth pot, which isn't clear on the layout. All props to Doug Deeper really for an inspiring design.
Is that photo cell (http://www.banzaieffects.com/Photo-Cell-1-2k-500k-pr-17338.html) suitable for this project?!
Should I use a super bright led or a standard one? Which Color? Would a bright white fit?
Scruffie, Josh, where are your vero layouts?!
Quote from: Renegadrian on August 06, 2009, 05:39:02 PM
Is that photo cell (http://www.banzaieffects.com/Photo-Cell-1-2k-500k-pr-17338.html) suitable for this project?!
Should I use a super bright led or a standard one? Which Color? Would a bright white fit?
Scruffie, Josh, where are your vero layouts?!
Haha, like I said, mine is hand-drawn in my notebook, and I haven't had a chance to even get close to building one from it, so it's unverified anyway. I can try to take a picture of it and post, but someone will probably have to make corrections--I don't really have time to dig into it ATM :)
Quote from: Renegadrian on August 06, 2009, 05:39:02 PM
Is that photo cell (http://www.banzaieffects.com/Photo-Cell-1-2k-500k-pr-17338.html) suitable for this project?!
Should I use a super bright led or a standard one? Which Color? Would a bright white fit?
Scruffie, Josh, where are your vero layouts?!
That LDR should be fine. It's the minimum resistance that matters, because as the LDR is in parallel with a 100K pot in the circuit it's maximum resistance can only ever be ~50K. I seem to recall that a super bright LED is called for, though not an ultra bright. I think you'd get good results with a standard LED too though. I did start a vero layout a while back, got about halfway but got frustrated with it - vero not being my thing really.
Thx, I think this will be my next project...Now off to bed and tomorrow I'll go shopping - Banzai, I'm coming! :icon_biggrin:
PS I really liked your sound sample, Rick! :icon_wink:
I used a 1,2-500k LDR and a white superbright and it woked fine, all bought from Banzai
right, I'll do the same then! :icon_wink:
Quote from: Renegadrian on August 06, 2009, 08:06:13 PM
PS I really liked your sound sample, Rick! :icon_wink:
Thanks Adriano - Ah, you want to do the Cubed version, cool! I don't think a vero layout exists for that yet. Though someone should make a version that incorporates the LFO and fuzz lift into the stock Clari, so modulation could be switchable between the LFO or the envelope. that would be pretty versatile!
Could someone (who fully understands it) post an OBW diagram for the board with the separate LFO-board? Did NOT understand how to wire it...
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 07, 2009, 06:22:05 AM
Could someone (who fully understands it) post an OBW diagram for the board with the separate LFO-board? Did NOT understand how to wire it...
Isn't that clear from my Cubed layout on page 5?
oooh! Now I see. Thanks! I guess I'll built another one, since my graphics say track at the track-pot. Thanks again, you must be a genius or something
Yeah, here's a rare pic of Rick the mad genius in his lab... :icon_eek:
(http://www.rstolley.com/mad-genius-4.jpg)
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 07, 2009, 06:38:51 AM
Thanks again, you must be a genius or something
Hmmm, maybe. For what good it does me.......... (http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/967492/Louis%20Jordan%20-%20If%20You%20So%20Smart%2C%20How%20Come%20You%20Ain%27t%20Rich.mp3) :icon_razz:
i've started on this project going by the perf layout in this thread, then i noticed something... rick, you use really small (size-wise) caps. where do you get them? i had to adjust the perf layout to fit the caps i got because i just couldnt fit them that close together without it looking like a godforsaken mess lol!
another question... obviously a dual vactrol will work with this (that much i dont doubt) but would i use the center and one of the outside pins on the ldr side of the vactrol or the 2 outside pins on the ldr side? i'm assuming it's just the center pin and one of the outside pins since i'm guessing the 2 outside pins would amount to 2 ldrs in series, right? and is there anything useful or interesting i could do with the pin that wont be used on the vactrol? probably not but i figure it wouldnt hurt to ask.
Quote from: thereverend on August 07, 2009, 03:15:13 PM
i've started on this project going by the perf layout in this thread, then i noticed something... rick, you use really small (size-wise) caps. where do you get them? i had to adjust the perf layout to fit the caps i got because i just couldnt fit them that close together without it looking like a godforsaken mess lol!
Ooops! Sorry for my small cap based layouts! I guess I do layouts for me first and the rest of the World second. Sorry World, you'll just have to get the caps I use. I get mine for Rapid and Maplin in the UK, though similar are available here if you're in the US: http://futurlec.com/CapCerMono.shtml
I used regular size caps. Solder them with good "feet-length"insulate them with wire-insulation-leftovers and bend them out of the way (don't know if feet is the right word in english)
Quote from: frequencycentral on August 07, 2009, 03:29:30 PM
Quote from: thereverend on August 07, 2009, 03:15:13 PM
i've started on this project going by the perf layout in this thread, then i noticed something... rick, you use really small (size-wise) caps. where do you get them? i had to adjust the perf layout to fit the caps i got because i just couldnt fit them that close together without it looking like a godforsaken mess lol!
Ooops! Sorry for my small cap based layouts! I guess I do layouts for me first and the rest of the World second. Sorry World, you'll just have to get the caps I use. I get mine for Rapid and Maplin in the UK, though similar are available here if you're in the US: http://futurlec.com/CapCerMono.shtml
no need to be sorry for your small cap-based layouts. they're great and it's no big deal for me to adapt and change the layout to fit my caps. i was just curious on what kind you were using. thanks for the link!
Quote from: Renegadrian on August 06, 2009, 05:39:02 PM
Is that photo cell (http://www.banzaieffects.com/Photo-Cell-1-2k-500k-pr-17338.html) suitable for this project?!
Should I use a super bright led or a standard one? Which Color? Would a bright white fit?
Scruffie, Josh, where are your vero layouts?!
I gave up, it kept ending up being huge... i'l have to give it another go.
alright, so i dont have a 27k pot for the blend but i do have a 20k pot and a 50k pot. would the 20k pot work okay? if not i understand that a 50k pot with 22k resistor across lugs 1 and 3 would give me a 27k pot but when it comes to it's function as a blend knob i get slightly confused as to if the resistor would get soldered to lugs 1 and 3 of if it'd be 2 resistors with one across lugs 1 and 2 and the other across 2 and 3.
disregard that last post of mine. i did what i shoulda done in the first place and used google to learn a thing or two.
finally finished my build. doesnt work though. it passes sound but theres no delay, it just sounds like a fuzz. when i turn the blend it becomes a richer sounding fuzz with a bit more high end. the led doesnt light up and again, no delay, no nothing. just fuzz. i'll take measurements tomorrow but if anyone has any ideas on what the problem could potentially be (besides human error, obviously) or what would be a good part of the circuit to start checking for problems it'd be appreciated.
Make sure the 78L05 is the correct way. Mine was like this as well, but the layout doesn't comply with the '05s I have. When I flipped it, the whole thing lit up (more then before :D)
Also, if you use the non-cubed layout you might have to flip the LED as well. If you're as stupid as I am it looks like the + is connected to ground, which it of course is not...
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 11, 2009, 06:24:58 AM
Make sure the 78L05 is the correct way. Mine was like this as well, but the layout doesn't comply with the '05s I have. When I flipped it, the whole thing lit up (more then before :D)
Also, if you use the non-cubed layout you might have to flip the LED as well. If you're as stupid as I am it looks like the + is connected to ground, which it of course is not...
just tried turning the 78L05 around and now i get fuzz along with this sound i can only describe as uncontrollable flatulence, basically a whole bunch of farty noises. led still not lighting up but i'm pretty sure it's in the right way. i read somewhere else in the thread that the 78L05 placed the wrong way could potentially fry the pt2399 so i'm hoping that hasnt happened. first things first, gonna go over all my soldering to make sure i didnt miss something.
make sure your OBW is ok. Mine wasn't and I got very strange laser-guns-sounds from it. I had not grounded everything ok
Quote from: kristoffereide on August 11, 2009, 03:48:05 PM
make sure your OBW is ok. Mine wasn't and I got very strange laser-guns-sounds from it. I had not grounded everything ok
obw? i'm not good with acronyms.
Off Board Wiring
Not Order of the Bed Wetters? Oscillating Burnt Weenies? Out of Bounds Wacko??
Quote from: Ben N on August 11, 2009, 05:46:49 PM
Not Order of the Bed Wetters? Oscillating Burnt Weenies? Out of Bounds Wacko??
I actually thought OBW was a cricketing term (cricket: obscure english game), but that's LBW - Leg Before Wicket. So OBW could be Orifice Before Wicket? But I'm guessing Off Board Wiring is the correct interpretation in this case.
yes you got it right, however; how funny would it not be if I ment "make sure your order of bed wetters is ok, mine wasn't" hehehe
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 29, 2009, 02:48:32 PM
What layout did you use for the LFO? Just to be clear, the LED anode should now go to the output of the LFO (via R8) instead of being fed by the 386 via C13. The key here is probably R8 in my Clari(not) Cubed layout, I used a 100K because my LED was ultra bright. Depending on your LED you could use a lower value or remove that resistor altogether. The way I did it was to hook up my (built) Clari to the LFO which was on the breadboard, I changed a few resistor values until I found the right one. I suspect that your LED might need a much lower resistor, as its not lighting up at all. Try a 100K trimpot in place of R8 and tweak it until you get something useable.
I'm pretty sure the LFO on the Cubed layout is correct, though I used the tiny daughter board layout posted earlier in the thread. It would be worth checking whatever layout you used against the LFO schematic.
Yup you can link the 9 volt to anywhere that's 9 volt on the main board.
There is no need for C13 if you are converting your Clari(not) permanently to the Cubed version.
You only need to wire the Speed pot as a variable resistor, so lug 1 doesn't need to go anywhere.
You can remove the cap and resistor from pin 8, or just leave them there, they won't do any harm. I left mine in place because I used a switch between pins 1 and 8 for fuzz/clean.
Good luck, report back!
I found that for standard Red LEDS that a resistor value between 20k-60k worked best. The 100k should only be used for the ultra bright ones like mentioned above. However, I noticed that if the resistor value was too low, the LED was not off for a long enough period of time for the oscillation to sound "right" to me. A 100k trimmer might be a good idea in place of R8.
did anyone ever build the MikeH layout one page 6? did it work okay if so?
thanks,
Quote from: newperson on September 10, 2009, 01:58:57 PM
did anyone ever build the MikeH layout one page 6? did it work okay if so?
thanks,
I built it successfully using that layout with one correction. I forgot to connect pins 1 and 8 of the 386. So you just have to connect them with a sharpie before you etch, or in ms paint or something before you print it out. I believe it's fine other than that. Some of the controls might be labeled backwards too- I forget. Sorry.
thank you for the reply,
Is there a wiring layout anywhere that shows how to have the best of both worlds in one box : the original clari(not) and ricks cubed version ?
Quote from: dr.benway on September 18, 2009, 12:51:06 AM
Is there a wiring layout anywhere that shows how to have the best of both worlds in one box : the original clari(not) and ricks cubed version ?
edd101 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=profile;u=17089) should be the man for that. I converted my stock Clari, disabling the envelope part in the process.
edd101's is the only one I've seen with both options. C'mon
edd101, post your wiring layout!
Quote from: edd101 on September 15, 2009, 06:57:35 AM
Hi!
At last...I've completed my long lasting build - Clari(NOT). I've combined the stock Clari(NOT) with Ricks LFO mod so it is possible to switch between them ;) This pedal is very cool 8)!!!
Thanks everybody :)
Ed
(http://edd101.users.photofile.ru/photo/edd101/96158262/xlarge/111408963.jpg)
I can confirm that the 78L05 is the wrong way around on the perf layout, at least according to the datasheet I have. I did check it before start up but I built most of it in one blast and brain tired must have turned it the wrong round in my head. It didn't sound quite as I was expecting it to, but it fired straight up so I just got to knob twiddling for a while, but with increasing suspicion, until 15 minutes in, the PT2399 died screaming. Interesting, now I know what that sounds like. Thanks TAYDA I have another 19 chips to throw at it :icon_biggrin:
Ah yeah, I did my layout for a 7805 which I had handy at the time, which has the opposite pinout to a 78L05. I should put a note on the layout..............
No problem, I should have checked it better myself, there were notes about it all through the second half of the thread. Good with a note on the schem though.
Quote from: Skruffyhound on November 29, 2009, 08:53:03 AM
No problem, I should have checked it better myself, there were notes about it all through the second half of the thread. Good with a note on the schem though.
I've added notes to my layouts now.
Flipped the regulator, after checking its output out of the circuit(just in case) , felt I had a lot of noise and was not very happy. Changed the, PT2399, changed it for another. Changed the Opamps eventually with some success. But this is still quite a noisy little circuit. After an evening of tweaking I feel I have found some useful settings, but I'm interested if something is still creating more than usual noise. Hiss is one thing, but I have something akin to static little pops on heavier settings (without fuzz)
Can someone tell me if this is normal or do I have to look further.
I am very happy with some of the settings I've found, and I know that there is not much filtering involved here, so if this is how it is then I'm not complaining because there are definitely a lot usable sounds and its very tweakable and sensitive to rolling back volume on the guitar and amp. But I would like to know what others who built the Clari cubed experienced.
I have an almost completely stock circuit except the Blend pot which is 25K instead of 27K. My pots are on the board so not a lot of wire around and I made a super clean build for this one. Any comments appreciated ;D
hello there,
When I first built my Clari, it was the original one. Some time later Rick made this wonderful mod and I added it to my existing Clari. I use this box all the time and 90% the LFO mod the stock Clari isn't that interesting!
well, the wiring is very simple! sorry for my poor schem i`m not realy good at it :icon_mrgreen: hope it helps you ;)
PS. Rick, thnx once again for the beautiful mod 8)
(http://edd101.users.photofile.ru/photo/edd101/96262885/xlarge/113535549.jpg)
Quote from: Skruffyhound on November 29, 2009, 09:16:34 PM
....felt I had a lot of noise and was not very happy.......But this is still quite a noisy little circuit. After an evening of tweaking I feel I have found some useful settings, but I'm interested if something is still creating more than usual noise.
Re hiss:
Quote from: frequencycentral on June 03, 2009, 01:17:51 PM
Yeah the fuzz hides the hiss. On my modded version with fuzz-lift the hiss is more noticable at slower delay times. I prefer to think of it as a 'bonus' white noise generator and phase it for whooshy coolness. :icon_eek:
Re pops:
Quote from: Skruffyhound on November 29, 2009, 09:16:34 PM
Hiss is one thing, but I have something akin to static little pops on heavier settings (without fuzz)
The pops may be due to your LED/LDR combo. If the LED s going too bright.............you could try limiting it's brightness with a resistor/trimmer.
Yes it's a noisy circuit, and the fuzz lift mod really reveals the noise. It could do with better filtering. If I'm honest, I never enjoyed the stock Clari, that's why I modded mine into what it is now. I like the 'idea' of the stock Clari, but I think it could be implemented more effectively with a better envelope follower with attack/release controls. Still, a fun circuit to tinker with, and very inspiring to me personally. I'm glad people like my mods (beams with pride) !!
Thanks Rick, I'm enjoying it, just need to trim a little off the noise. Hiss at a constant background level can be treated, but these little pops and crackles are irritating. I used 100k for R8 and an ultra-bright the same as you, but maybe Banzai's ultra-brights are more ultra-bright than Rapids. I'll try adjusting R8, thanks for the tip. Fuzz lift pot also not so successful yet, 100k lin has a far too harsh ramp in the middle of the range, might as well be a switch, I'll try to figure something else out. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: Skruffyhound on November 30, 2009, 03:33:40 PM
Fuzz lift pot also not so successful yet, 100k lin has a far too harsh ramp in the middle of the range, might as well be a switch,
??? The fuzz lift always was a switch.
Not really much to do with the current conversation, but I recently breadboarded the Clari Cubed, and I gotta say this is one of the most original and versatile circuits that I've come across. Great fuzz, cool echo, chorus, etc...and it's even got a sense of humor! Doug, I salute you for your ingenuity as well as your generosity; Rick, kudos for excellent enhancements. I am in awe of your respective skills, gentlemen.
Now that I'm done with the unabashed gushing, a quick question- anyone have tips on equalizing the volume discrepancies between fuzz and clean settings? I'm getting a drastic drop when fuzz is lifted (understandable, considering the fuzz is a maxxed 386) and I'd just like to even it a bit, if possible...
With the stock Clari(not), the fuzz needs to be there to drive the LED. With the fuzz lift on clean in the Cubed, there won't be enough gain (I don't think) to 'flash' the LED. So, although you could use a resistor to ground (after the output of the 386) on a dpdt together with the fuzz lift, you'd totally lose the envelope control element. This could be done with an LFO only version however, you'd just need to play about with the resistor to ground value to achieve unity with the fuzz lift.
There is definately another effect waiting to be born here: an envelope controlled PT2399 with good filtering and attack/release controls. I'd ditch the 386 (and fuzz) and use a dual opamp for input and output stages, maybe look at Rebote 2 for these and the filtering. The envelope element could be sniped from a pre-existing envelope fliter effect, anything that gives some contour control, attack and release. Maybe throw the Cubed LFO in there too. That would be one hell of an insane effect - should I design it do you think?
Absolutely, man. Have at it! :icon_twisted:
Actually, I have the LFO-only version boarded right now- that's where I'm getting volume discrepancy. I'll play around with resistor to ground & see what happens. BTW, has anyone played around with having both envelope and LFO options available? Possible to add a boost to fuzz lift to drive LED?
QuoteThe fuzz lift always was a switch.
Yeah, I changed it for a 100K pot, actually I think you suggested it :icon_biggrin:, but there is no gradual addition/ subtraction of fuzz just a very sudden change over within a few degrees in the middle of the pot - "might as well be a switch."
I was so pissed off with the noise, on what is actually a beautiful sounding effect, that I got up this morning and breadboarded the thing again (had to rip out some of those damn sub-mini tubes that have been hogging board space) so now I have two ... :icon_mrgreen:
The intention was to try to build some more filter into it and to get rid of the 386, without the mad fuzz and random popping this thing really makes beautiful very flexible sounds. Imagine my surprise when I returned to the thread and .....
So Rick, I vote a big yes for the new effect, exactly what I'm looking for, unless it's called the Clarinot not not not. The enclosure's going to be too expensive if we have to have that on the front.
(http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww136/skruffyhound/Valvecaster.jpg)
Clari's piling up on top of Valvecasters here Rick, you've got to help me out man! Design the Clari-Uber-Tube-Caster-not and set my breadboards free :icon_biggrin: Just change that 386 out with a sub-mini and we are half way there!
Hey i dunno if its just me being blind but its really hard to see the values of everything. the perf layout is so small. What is that D1 thing on the pots board? it says to board one RB?
It seems that photobucket resized my layouts when I added the error notes. :icon_frown:
D1 on the pot board is the LED 'to board one R8'.
QuoteBTW, has anyone played around with having both envelope and LFO options available? Possible to add a boost to fuzz lift to drive LED?
i have this exact thing on my bench , i also made it where i can switch between an LDR and a phototransistor ( trans has a sharper/quicker response time)
with the fuzz off it still just drives the leds
there really shouldnt be much of a noise issue, maybe its a layout problem.
uninteresting.
i'll try harder.
Quotei have this exact thing on my bench , i also made it where i can switch between an LDR and a phototransistor ( trans has a sharper/quicker response time)
with the fuzz off it still just drives the leds
How does it sound? Especially interested in the phototransistor. I was intending to try that when I get back to this project (again).
Quoteuninteresting.i'll try harder.
It's the most interesting circuit I've looked at, the circuit I've learned most from and the circuit that is most frequently on my breadboard, it's elegant, low parts count and produces great sounds. I perfed the Clari cubed, but the Clari(not) is also on the breadboard and I am drawn back to it again and again. So uninteresting is not how I would describe it Doug. It's a beautiful effect.
QuoteHow does it sound? Especially interested in the phototransistor. I was intending to try that when I get back to this project (again).
sounds great actually ! the photo transistor gives a much faster response than the ldr . its really noticeable at faster settings , its much more choppy than the ldr.
i also added the feedback section of an echo base so it can self oscillate too.
Just a thought. It's possible to tap a square wave off the output of the first opamp in the LFO circuit (ie tap off one lug of the speed control). It's going to be a pretty hot swing, from rail to rail, so would need to be suitably attenuated before using it to drive the LED (ie a biggish series resistor), but it might be fun to have switchable (of even mixable) square/triangle waveforms.
you've almost uncovered the secret of the pitch pirate!
;D
now it's time to share that one Doug! :)
Hello all. I would like some help debugging this circuit. I built a mid-fi clai(not) like rick holts layout. The distortion side of this circuit works just fine. I am having an issue with the delay portion. According to the schematic there should be sound at pin 16 on the PT2399. With the IC plugged in I do not get any sound at this point when the IC is removed I do get sound at this point. Any Ideas?
Here's a (unverified) layout for the Clari(not) Cubed Deluxe. It has all the stock Clari features, plus the addition of:
- LFO mod (see the LFO schematic on page 4)
- Fuzz Lift mod
- Switchable source LFO/ENV (though I wonder if a pot would work to mix between the two?)
- pull-down resistor
There are four jumper on the board........... :'( ..............but all the pad for the controls are on the top edge.......... :icon_biggrin:
Please check it before building it, I'm not building it (unless some kind person wants to send me a board), as I've got a super-duper varient planned.........
........and big hugs, love, respect and adulation to Doug Deeper for the original circuit!
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClarinotCubedDeluxePCB.gif)
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClarinotCubedDeluxePnP.gif)
hi there!
its been a while since I built myself ClariNOT3. I like it VERY much, but I came across one problem that bothers me. When I use my guitar with hot pickups my Clari (in fuzz lift mod) distorts. So, lets say, I use clari as chorus and hit string hard I get some distortion!
Need some help here ::) Is it possible to solve this ???
thnx
Ed
Change guitar - easy! :icon_smile:
Quote from: edd101 on March 01, 2010, 05:04:22 AM
hi there!
its been a while since I built myself ClariNOT3. I like it VERY much, but I came across one problem that bothers me. When I use my guitar with hot pickups my Clari (in fuzz lift mod) distorts. So, lets say, I use clari as chorus and hit string hard I get some distortion!
Need some help here ::) Is it possible to solve this ???
thnx
Ed
That's just the way the 386 works in this circuit. It never truly gets clean. If your pickups are hot you just need to turn down the guitar volume a bit to clean it up.
I noticed this last week. My daughter came round to jam, she has a Gibson Les Paul Studio (bought for her by daddy), the humbuckers are much hotter than the humbuckers in my Squier Telecaster Custom - they really drove the Clari into distortion, much more so than my Tele.
I finished my perf build with a fuzz lift and lfo/env switch yesterday and noticed the same thing. I was somewhat surprised that my Jazzmaster drove it hard enough to distort with the fuzz lift. I'm thinking about putting a simple gain control in front of the thing (maybe an op amp volume knob type thing).
Quote from: Renegadrian on March 01, 2010, 06:12:49 AM
Change guitar - easy! :icon_smile:
yeah! but this baby is my latest passion ;D and it's blonde :P ::) ;D
I built a clari with fuzz lift. Now all my friends want one. I have 2 questions:
Can I build 5-10 of these pedals and sell them to folks around Ann Arbor? I will gladly pay a license fee to the designers.
Would someone be willing to make and sell me some boards for the ultimate cubed version? The one I built was on perfboard, but I would love to try for the version with a switch between LFO and ENV.
Thanks!
I doubt anyone involved will want your money, so you might like to donate a proportion of the proceeds to the site itself to keep this place running for other budding entrepreneurs like yourself :) ...
That would work for me too. I just don't want to be selling a pedal that is a variation on an original design by mid-fi without permission. It's one thing to sell fuzz variants and germanium boosts since the original companies are all gone.
Quote from: alexanest on March 29, 2010, 11:01:25 AM
I built a clari with fuzz lift. Now all my friends want one. I have 2 questions:
Can I build 5-10 of these pedals and sell them to folks around Ann Arbor?
The old Ace-Deuce eh?
guys, just a Q: how do i bring up LED brightness? i breadboarded one stock and used an LDR/LED, but the super bright LED just wont light up, except when i break the connection to pins 1 and 8 of the LM386 IC, but output is low and LED barely lights up. with connection to pins 1 and 8 lifted, i needed to whack the strings real hard to light up the LED and hear the effect. im pretty sure all other parts function well, and that there are no bad parts other than the 386 i used (im sure, i had a "bad" bunch of them 386, grrr!).
the circuit works: there is fuzz, blend knob works, no repeats but only one delayed signal, depth pot controls intensity of effect but lowers delay time, delay pot adjusts delay time. but im quite certain the 386 aint putting out enough juice to light up the LED. any tips to make LED light up more? the LDR works by the way.
???
Wow, this thing is FUN! It's on breadboard now. Ran a Scrambler into it earlier tonight. Sonic bliss!
I tried the layout on page 12, The cubed version deluxe. I got the effect working to an extent. My first problem:
- The depth knob is controlling the delay time and the delay knob really isn't doing anything
Second problem:
- The LFO doesnt seem to be working. I did swap a TL072 instead of a TL062. Could that be the problem?
Third problem:
- I'm getting some weird really low noises after the delays. Sounds almost like someone passing gas :icon_biggrin:
I know its hard to debug my problems without any other info, but I'm just wondering if anyone else has ran into these problems and fixed them?
^^^
Did you thouroughly check the layout first? I didn't ever build it, only layed it out for the benefit of mankind. I'll have another look over it in the areas where you've got issues and get back to you.
Quote from: alexanest on March 29, 2010, 11:01:25 AM
I built a clari with fuzz lift. Now all my friends want one. I have 2 questions:
Can I build 5-10 of these pedals and sell them to folks around Ann Arbor? I will gladly pay a license fee to the designers.
Would someone be willing to make and sell me some boards for the ultimate cubed version? The one I built was on perfboard, but I would love to try for the version with a switch between LFO and ENV.
Thanks!
not sure,
but i may be the person to ask.
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 03, 2010, 05:04:22 PM
^^^
Did you thouroughly check the layout first? I didn't ever build it, only layed it out for the benefit of mankind. I'll have another look over it in the areas where you've got issues and get back to you.
Any luck with the layout? I looked it over and can't find anything wrong with it, but then again I'm not the BEST at comparing schematics and layouts.
Quote from: SS_KoRn89 on May 03, 2010, 02:34:28 PM
Second problem:
- The LFO doesnt seem to be working. I did swap a TL072 instead of a TL062. Could that be the problem?
A guy on another forum found an error in the Cubed Deluxe layout. There is a trace under R13 that goes to ground - it shouldn't be there. Cutting that trace will get the LFO working. I'll remove that erroneous trace and reload the layout.
Newbie question, but first off, humble thanks to D.Deeper!!!!!, freq'central and all who are making this possible. Where do I send the beer money???
I've bread boarded the pre-cube Clari(not) ... all seems well with the Clari but I'm testing over a loud and clear radio station. I got into it at first but now I'm beggin' for just the guitar and Clari(not) if possible. Any ideas?
dave
Quote from: wintery on June 24, 2010, 02:27:37 PM
....................................bread boarded.............................................radio station.......................................
Probably it's the fact that it's breadboarded. An enclosure forms a Faraday Cage and (in most cases) will cut out the radio signal.
I built my Clari(not) stock aside from the fuzz-lift switch and it sounds great and is a never-ending source of entertainment (some great damaged tape sounds can be had), but now I want to build the deluxe version! That LFO/ENV switch makes my mouth water...
Quote from: frequencycentral on June 24, 2010, 11:39:40 AM
Quote from: SS_KoRn89 on May 03, 2010, 02:34:28 PM
Second problem:
- The LFO doesnt seem to be working. I did swap a TL072 instead of a TL062. Could that be the problem?
A guy on another forum found an error in the Cubed Deluxe layout. There is a trace under R13 that goes to ground - it shouldn't be there. Cutting that trace will get the LFO working. I'll remove that erroneous trace and reload the layout.
Thanks alot!! I've been trying to debug this thing for awhile. Maybe that will fix my problems.
Ok, I cut the trace under R13 but I still haven't got it working. Thats the trace that grounds pin 4 on the TL072? I wanna make sure I cut the right one.
Quote from: SS_KoRn89 on July 06, 2010, 05:24:41 PM
Ok, I cut the trace under R13 but I still haven't got it working. Thats the trace that grounds pin 4 on the TL072? I wanna make sure I cut the right one.
Have a look at the layout on page 12 again, I mended it and re-uploaded it the other day. On the old, incorrect layout, the right hand side of R13 had a trace to the vertical ground trace. Pin 4 on the TL072 should still be grounded. You should just cut the trace between the right leg of R13 and the ground trace. R13 should not be grounded.
Quote from: frequencycentral on July 06, 2010, 06:01:15 PM
Quote from: SS_KoRn89 on July 06, 2010, 05:24:41 PM
Ok, I cut the trace under R13 but I still haven't got it working. Thats the trace that grounds pin 4 on the TL072? I wanna make sure I cut the right one.
Have a look at the layout on page 12 again, I mended it and re-uploaded it the other day. On the old, incorrect layout, the right hand side of R13 had a trace to the vertical ground trace. Pin 4 on the TL072 should still be grounded. You should just cut the trace between the right leg of R13 and the ground trace. R13 should not be grounded.
Ok. I see it now. I cut the wrong trace :-\. I'll just soldering it back and cut the the one on R13 and see if it works. Thanks.
I'm still getting the LFO to work but for some reason the depth knob is controlling delay time and the delay knob is controlling depth. I've checked it 100 times and the out board wiring is the same as the layout. Could it be just labeled wrong?
Hey! Your LFO is working - cool!
I just checked the wiring of the depth and delay against the schematic and it looks correct to me, they are not labelled wrong. However, the nature of the circuit is such that the setting of the delay pot will also affect the depth, if you set the delay to the shortest setting the depth will have very little effect, slowing down the delay time will allow the env/lfo to have more effect. Maybe that is what you are experiencing? Maybe it takes a while to get your head around exactly what each knob does - I'm not trying to be rude here, just saying that this is one weird stompbox.
BTW, I'm still curious as to whether replacing the LFO/ENV source switch with a pot would allow you to mix continuously between the two........?
Quote from: frequencycentral on July 07, 2010, 01:22:00 PM
Hey! Your LFO is working - cool!
I just checked the wiring of the depth and delay against the schematic and it looks correct to me, they are not labelled wrong. However, the nature of the circuit is such that the setting of the delay pot will also affect the depth, if you set the delay to the shortest setting the depth will have very little effect, slowing down the delay time will allow the env/lfo to have more effect. Maybe that is what you are experiencing? Maybe it takes a while to get your head around exactly what each knob does - I'm not trying to be rude here, just saying that this is one weird stompbox.
BTW, I'm still curious as to whether replacing the LFO/ENV source switch with a pot would allow you to mix continuously between the two........?
Maybe there is nothing wrong with Delay and depth knob. I bet I just didnt understand how it worked. I'm still working on the LFO. I bet there is just something small I over looked. It's something on my end and NOT your layout. Thanks again for all your help!
Quote from: frequencycentral on July 07, 2010, 01:22:00 PM
.
BTW, I'm still curious as to whether replacing the LFO/ENV source switch with a pot would allow you to mix continuously between the two........?
Think of how would the synthpeople do this CV mixing?
I got everything working. Turns out my LED wasn't a super bright one. Since there was a 100k resistor right before the LED, I needed a bright onw. I popped one in and my LFO was visible. Starting to box it up today. KILLER PEDAL!
Howdy-
Would anyone who has built the Clari Cubed mind posting voltages for the TL062, LM386 and, if possible, across the anode of the LED? I built one using Rick's PCB layout and I'm having trouble with the LED, in both LFO- and envelope-driven modes. The rest of the circuit works well, and I can get effect from the LDR by covering and uncovering with my hand, but the LED just ain't gettin' enough juice, it seems. I should mention that I did remove the erroneous trace to ground at R13...
Thanks!
Quote from: jdub on July 12, 2010, 04:37:35 PM
.....but the LED just ain't gettin' enough juice, it seems.
Quote from: SS_KoRn89 on July 08, 2010, 06:51:46 PM
I got everything working. Turns out my LED wasn't a super bright one. Since there was a 100k resistor right before the LED, I needed a bright onw. I popped one in and my LFO was visible. Starting to box it up today. KILLER PEDAL!
Same problem maybe? Got a superbright LED in there?
Yup, it's a superbright- 5000mcd waterclear. Seems I'm getting good voltage from the TL062 and the 358- in the neighborhood of 3.0 to 3.5 volts; but by the time it gets to the anode of the LED (through the 100k from the LFO or through the 10uF from the 358) it's down to 1.9-2.4 volts, which IIRC isn't enough forward voltage for a superbright. And it worked so well on the breadboard... I just know I'm missing something simple- 'swhat I get for not perfing it... ::)
bumpitty bumpus
Quote from: frequencycentral on December 01, 2009, 01:44:25 PMThere is definately another effect waiting to be born here: an envelope controlled PT2399 with good filtering and attack/release controls. I'd ditch the 386 (and fuzz) and use a dual opamp for input and output stages, maybe look at Rebote 2 for these and the filtering. The envelope element could be sniped from a pre-existing envelope fliter effect, anything that gives some contour control, attack and release. Maybe throw the Cubed LFO in there too. That would be one hell of an insane effect - should I design it do you think?
Well, Rick, have you given this some more thought?
You
do realize that now that you've got our mouths watering with this prospect you can't back up, right? :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: DC9V on August 07, 2010, 03:29:16 AM
Quote from: frequencycentral on December 01, 2009, 01:44:25 PMThere is definately another effect waiting to be born here.......
Well, Rick, have you given this some more thought?
You do realize that now that you've got our mouths watering with this prospect you can't back up, right? :icon_mrgreen:
Well, as it happens, just yesterday I breadboarded a mini chorus using a PT2399 and a dual opamp, referencing to Rebote for it's input buffer, the Clari for it's output section, and the Echo Base for it's modulation of delay time. A few things to iron out before I can say 'done', but encouraging results so far. The challlenge is getting the delay time as short as possible while still allowing the LFO enough room to wiggle. The next logical step would be to develop it further by adding envelope control.................
Hi Rick Thx for all your work on the Clari Cubed. It's now my fav pedal when I can borrow it back from my friends. :+)
John Lyons made me a couple of sweet clari3 boards and I'd like to send you one. Plz get me an address and I'll put it in the mails.
(winterymoon at gmail dot com)
dave
Quote from: wintery on August 10, 2010, 06:59:24 AM
Hi Rick Thx for all your work on the Clari Cubed. It's now my fav pedal when I can borrow it back from my friends. :+)
John Lyons made me a couple of sweet clari3 boards and I'd like to send you one. Plz get me an address and I'll put it in the mails.
(winterymoon at gmail dot com)
dave
Sweet! Thank you! Just emailed you. Did you have the boards made from the layout on page 12 of this thread? If so, is everything working as expected? And can we call it verified?
Sorry 'bout the verification ... I'm way too newbie to put my seal of approval on anything. Board's on it's way!
Rick, you're my hero.
Warning, board spamming in progress.
If anyone wants a board for the Clarinot Cubed I can make them for $13 shipped US.
For overseas $14. basicaudiowv AT yahoo dot com
Rick, I assume this is ok with you. If not then lemme know. ;)
John
Quote from: wintery on August 10, 2010, 08:03:25 AM
Sorry 'bout the verification ... I'm way too newbie to put my seal of approval on anything.
is it working ok then?.. :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: John Lyons on August 10, 2010, 11:42:11 AM
Warning, board spamming in progress.
If anyone wants a board for the Clarinot Cubed I can make them for $13 shipped US.
For overseas $14. basicaudiowv AT yahoo dot com
Rick, I assume this is ok with you. If not then lemme know. ;)
John
what about asking me????? ;)
Quote...layout on page 12 of this thread? If so, is everything working as expected? And can we call it verified?
Finally found the problem with mine- microscopic solder bridge, of course, that took forever to find. Also, I was trying to use a blue superbright LED- switched it back to the pink one I used before & everything is hunky dory (forward voltage requirement of blue too high? Hmmmm...) Anyway, Rick, I call yer layout verified because I am now achieving mucho groovy weirdness. Kudos, man.
Fantastic device, wonderful sounds, ingenious design!
Has anybody tried it with 12 or 15 or 18 Volts power supply to get more headroom for clean sound ?
Hello, I was looking at this layout for this pedal and was wondering what the bent line with the arrow means on all the pots, is that just the symbol thats being used for a pot or does it mean something? Sorry im new to this and ive never seen it before.
yeah, that's one of the symbols for potentiometers. electrical engineers are just as bad as classical guitarists are with developing multiple redundant notations for things.
also, first post, Hi everybody.
Hi men,
Has somebody tried expression pedal with 100 kOhm pot in place of internal 100 kOhm "Delay" pot?
Hey, after all the talk a few years ago about the fuzz lift switch...
The LED didnt light cos the signal was too weak. But couldnt you just tweak the values around the led/ldr to make it work?
Quote from: DDD on January 22, 2011, 05:42:08 AM
Hi men,
Has somebody tried expression pedal with 100 kOhm pot in place of internal 100 kOhm "Delay" pot?
Sorry I didn't see this earlier, but I did in fact put an expression pedal on the delay pot and it is awesome. Highly recommended.
Quote from: El Heisenberg on March 18, 2011, 10:31:09 AM
Hey, after all the talk a few years ago about the fuzz lift switch...
The LED didnt light cos the signal was too weak. But couldnt you just tweak the values around the led/ldr to make it work?
I used a 2k pot for tracking and never had a problem with the fuzz lift canceling out the tracking effect. If you don't have a 2k pot you could try increasing the value of R8 and see if that does the trick. BTW, I was using a VTL5C2 as the LED/LDR, which will affect the response.
Or you could add a buffer at the beginning of the circuit, split the signal, one half goes to the delay chip, one half goes to the 386/led.
:icon_wink: :icon_wink: :icon_wink: :icon_wink: :icon_wink: :icon_wink: :icon_wink: :icon_wink: :icon_wink: :D
QuoteOr you could add a buffer at the beginning of the circuit, split the signal, one half goes to the delay chip, one half goes to the 386/led.
I may have heard this a version that does this recently. :icon_wink:
Whats up with all the winky faces? Lemme in on the joke
I have a new version of the clari(not) that is fuzzless.
That's how you do it! :icon_wink:
Um is there a schem out?
How is the LED lightig up if youre bypassinf the 386/LDR?
Quote from: El Heisenberg on March 19, 2011, 09:46:15 PM
Um is there a schem out?
Doug builds these and other pedals to make a living. Don't expect him to reveal his new design immediately!
Quote from: El Heisenberg on March 19, 2011, 09:46:15 PMHow is the LED lightig up if youre bypassinf the 386/LDR?
From two posts above yours, with no mention of bypassing:
Quote from: doug deeper on March 18, 2011, 05:58:15 PM
Or you could add a buffer at the beginning of the circuit, split the signal, one half goes to the delay chip, one half goes to the 386/led.
Oh jeez i didnt notice i was talking to the designer!
I guess ill just haff ta breadboard it and mess around.
Is it weird then that my build works really well with the fuzz-lift as is? I rarely ever use the fuzz at all and still get all the weirdness I want.
^^^
Probably depends on the brightness of your LED and the sensitivity of your LDR.
But I'm guessing Doug's new design still uses a 386 to active the LED, it's just not used in the audio path.
Quote from: frequencycentral on March 23, 2011, 09:22:40 PM
^^^
Probably depends on the brightness of your LED and the sensitivity of your LDR.
But I'm guessing Doug's new design still uses a 386 to active the LED, it's just not used in the audio path.
Thanks. I don't recall being too picky about the vactrol I used, so I guess I got lucky! Ha.
Quote from: frequencycentral on March 23, 2011, 09:22:40 PM
^^^
Probably depends on the brightness of your LED and the sensitivity of your LDR.
But I'm guessing Doug's new design still uses a 386 to active the LED, it's just not used in the audio path.
Yep!
The buffer is a jfet, 10k resistor, and 2 10uf caps n the output.
The audio side goes through a 15k resistor to the junction on the 10k and 22k that feed the delay chip.
The other half goes from the second 10uf to the input of the 386, everthing is the same there except the .01ufcap and the 100k resistor are no longer there (so the fuzz doesn't get to the delay chip).
JEEZ!
I was going to experiment! I was looking forward to doing it wrong lol!
I sorta made a wild guess that you used an op amp and I was gunna be all clever and use a JFET. Blah. Can't beleive you just give away the idea. Nodody better be selling clones da*^it
why would I think you used a freakin IC when you made this thing so simple in the first place...
Built the pedal in about 5 hours. Used rick holts first perf layout.
I already have echo base so didnt wanna try the cubed version.
Only thing i changed is added the jfet to do clean. It worked perfect. I used a 10k instead of 15k to the PT2399 input cos 15k gave too much volume drop. Then i added switch to toggle in fuzz mode with the .01 and 100k.
The clean version works great except that with the blend at 50% the volume is dropped even with the volume maxed.
Awesome pedal
I fit it in a 1590B and used a super brite yellow LED and a radioshack LDR.
Eh i kinda wish id built the pitch pirate instead. Didnt even think about clari cubed since it just seems like an inferior (no offense!) pitch pirate with more parts.
I guess now ill have both pitch pirate and clarinot. But honestly this effect is cool but nowhere near musical.
EDIT: after some time with the mary j the pedal is real fun to play with. I guess it was worth while even if it is a toy
Details of the pitch pirate weren't know when the Clari cubed was developed, it's kind of what outed the pitch pirate AFAIK
Ey should i place a buffer before the volume control? It gets quiet when both signals are blended.
??
Edit: i just put an LPB after the volume control to bring up the volume. As a bonus it got rid of a problem i had that there was alot of noise when the delay time was set long in clean mode. Now its only as noisy as it was in fuzz mode.
So yea the new clean clarinot is awesome!!
ooohh.... this is all so exciting. i was thinking about doing an mn3007 version of an envelope modulated vibrato. but with the pt2399 it's so much simpler. thanks so much to doug!!!
I like what you did with the depth and delay controls.
Doug I love you :) thanks for the hint with the buffer. Makes perfect sense. I suppose it should look something like this:
(http://dl.tonfang.de/buffer.png)
I breadboarded the whole thing and it works like charme - allthough i dont have the right pot values at hand. thats the only annoying thing.
Hello!
I made a perf-layout with the buffer (clean clari(not)). It's a bit tight - sorry.
The only thing not on the board is the 100n output cap and the delay pot. Both can be directly wired. Allthough there would be enough space for the cap...
except for the filtering caps (c10 & c11) i used electros and ceramics - on the breadboard that is.
Does anyone care to take a look at it? Should be right though...
PCB layout with mounted pots comming soon.
(http://dl.tonfang.de/clariperf.png)
A question: If I want the pitch changes to be a bit smoother (slower), would it be enough to cut the high frequencies off of the 386 fuzz? Would that be with a cap to ground on the 386 output?
Try and let us (me) know :) :)
Don't forget the 1m Resistor to ground on the input!
I just built the the perfboard version and it works fine - without the 1M resistor to ground. i'm fairly new to electronics... would that be a pulldown resistor?
You might wanna rearrange some parts, depending on how big your electros are.
So, after some tinkering I got this bad boy to work. Now I have a mod question! Is it possible to do some feedback? I.e. feed the output back into the input? I've had a quick go and it works, however, the blend pot stops working because I guess the dry is mixed with the wet and so and so on. Any ideas how to get a nice clean input mixed to the crazy feedback effect? Cheers!
I haven't built this and I don't really understand most of the theory, but I don't see why you couldn't do a feedback loop... maybe put a pot in it so you can adjust it? Stuff like this can get pretty insane with a feedback loop. You could even just clip a lead in between the output and input just to try it really quick. Be prepared for a super loud output though!
hey everyone.. this will probably be a pretty vague question
i've built a stock clari using a modified frequency central's layout but as usual i plug it in and nothing happens..
ive checked and re checked the layout, my soldering etc...
is there anything i could be missing? does anyone have any basic error checking tips?
heres the layout
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh627/louisquinn/render.gif
some gut shots
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh627/louisquinn/Photoon2012-05-21at2342.jpg
http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh627/louisquinn/Photoon2012-05-21at23432.jpg
Quote from: louisquinn on May 21, 2012, 09:48:10 AM
does anyone have any basic error checking tips?
There's a clue in the name of the
"DEBUGGING - What to do when it doesn't work" sticky thread. :icon_surprised:
Did you test it before doing the full wiring harness? Does it pass audio in Bypass?
DMM and an audio probe is the next step. Also having a paper copy of the schemo is very helpful. DMM= is the power getting to where it needs to be? Audio Probe = How far does your input signal go. Also check your soldering again for bridges and cold joints, from the look of the pics cold joints are probably not an issue, but I have had a lot of solder bridges working on perf.
Also, yes the sticky Debug thread is pretty useful.
yeahh i had it going on a breadboard so i guess the layout is all good..it does pass audio in bypass mode so definitely something with my wiring
i actually did find that one side of the yellow jumper wasnt connecting up with the other (this all goes to ground) but i crocodile clipped that up and no difference. ill check all my wire links too
but yeah that audio probe sounds like a good idea.. find exactly where the fault is
this has been very helpful thanks ill defs check that forum too!
Hi all.
Just finished putting this together, amazing pedal!
I tried adding the J201 buffer to the standard Clari(not) but had a massive volume drop and it sucked the tone out, made it sound very flat.
Could this be due to faulty/dodgy chinese J201s?
I've since reverted back to the standard with fuzz lift, it's more than loud enough and in clean mode the envelope works fine, so it's fine, just curious.
I also added a feedback pot (1MA) between lug 3 of the blend pot and pin 16 of the PT2399.
It seems to work ok, I get delay tails coming through nicely, if a little quieter than the original delay.
It goes into oscillation about with the pot at about 2/3 (which is great) then past that it craps out to silence and turning it down gets the delay happening again.
Should I have something else inline with the 1M pot to either stop it from overloading or to protect the IC?
Maybe a resistor in series like the main input? And would it be worth linking it to pin 15 as well via another resistor?
I appreciate any input.
I'm not getting this thing to work and I can't find out why. Is there anyone kind enough to have a look at my voltage readings? I used the layout from tagboardeffects (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.se/2012/02/mid-fi-electronics-clarinot.html) and posted my results there as well. The led lights up quickly when the power is connected but there are no flashing. Also the pin on the regulator reads 5.6 volts but I have tried three different with both batteries and wall warts and they all give the same reading, so I think my multimeter is the issue. Anyway, the pt2399:
1. 5,6
2. 2,7
3. 0
4. 0
5. 3,4
6. 2,7
7. 5,1
8. 0
9. 0
10. 0
11. 0,7
12. 2,7
13. 4,8
14. 0
15. 0,4
16. 4,9
And the lm386:
1. 1,8
2. 0
3. 0
4. 0
5. 1,8
6. 5,9
7. 0
8. 0
Hey folks!
Just built a Clari Cubed Deluxe and it kinda works. I get the delay and I get some ldr action but the effect is virtually nonexistent, even with the fuzz on.
It may be my Tayda ldr /diff green led combo, can someone please suggest light/dark values that would be fitting?
Is there a schematic for this cubed version by frequencycentral of the Clari(not) out there? I somehow got it in my mind to try a 1590a version of this one (I can't remember why, but so it is) but I cannot engineer the modifications into the original schematic.
Thanks!
If I'll manage (and don't go mad) to do the layout, I'll surely post it here.
Best, Lars
Quote from: frequencycentral on February 15, 2010, 08:04:22 PM
Here's a (unverified) layout for the Clari(not) Cubed Deluxe. It has all the stock Clari features, plus the addition of:
- LFO mod (see the LFO schematic on page 4)
- Fuzz Lift mod
- Switchable source LFO/ENV (though I wonder if a pot would work to mix between the two?)
- pull-down resistor
There are four jumper on the board........... :'( ..............but all the pad for the controls are on the top edge.......... :icon_biggrin:
Please check it before building it, I'm not building it (unless some kind person wants to send me a board), as I've got a super-duper varient planned.........
........and big hugs, love, respect and adulation to Doug Deeper for the original circuit!
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClarinotCubedDeluxePCB.gif)
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/ClarinotCubedDeluxePnP.gif)
There's a schematic submitted by Edd1001 on paage 11 of this topic
Ay, that slipped my eyes. Thanks a lot.
I finally finished my 1590a Clari(not) cubed. For all the crazies out there, here's the project file:
Clari(not) cubed project file (https://www.dropbox.com/s/gu88hriho38kls5/MidFi%20Clari_1590a.pdf?dl=0)
Thanks to Doug and Rick for this great circuit.
Pictures here:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=64752.msg1044418#msg1044418
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/1590a/Clarinot_PCB_pub.png)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/1590a/Clarinotx3.jpg)