DIYstompboxes.com

Projects => Beginner Project => Topic started by: aron on September 25, 2003, 01:39:46 AM

Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on September 25, 2003, 01:39:46 AM
Given this:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/partsLegend.jpg)

Can you tell me how many capacitors, transistors & resistors there are in this circuit? Are there any more parts you need?

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/schem.gif)
Title: Hey,no one said anything about a quiz................
Post by: Joe Bonner on September 25, 2003, 09:18:02 AM
:lol:

Here's my analysis:

Parts from schematic:
5 resistors (2x10K, 2x100K, 47K)
1 transistor (NPN)
1 5k potentiometer
1 capacitor
3 electrolytic capacitors (.1uF, 10uF, 47uF)

Other parts:
Switch (DPDT?)
jacks (one stereo, one mono)
connecting wire
enclosure
9V battery snap
perfboard

Did I miss anything?

Joe
Title: Re: Hey,no one said anything about a quiz................
Post by: Chris R on September 25, 2003, 09:27:39 AM
Quote from: Joe Bonner

3 electrolytic capacitors (.1uF, 10uF, 47uF)


Looks like the Electrolytic's should be 10uF, 22uF, and 47uF.

The .1uF cap is non polarized.

C
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Andy on September 25, 2003, 11:11:20 AM
1 9V Battery

Resistors
----------
100K - 2
47K
10K - 2
5K pot (linear)

Caps
------
47 uF
.1uF
10uF
22uF

Transistor
-----------
NPN (2N3904?)
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Gus on September 25, 2003, 11:58:13 AM
The schematic looks nice.  It looks like it might help people that have problems with my hand drawn ones.  Also you can build it with pnps reverse the caps and PS like with FF circuits.

Gus
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on September 25, 2003, 06:57:29 PM
Very good!

One .1uF (Film if possible)
Three Electrolytics 10uF, 22uF and 47uF
Two 10K resistors
One 47K resistor
Two 100K resistors
One NPN transistor 2N5088, 2N2222 etc....
One 5K linear pot.

Yes, you need a stereo input jack, mono output jack, perfboard, box and switch. In addition, either a transistor socket or DIP8 IC socket (easily found).

The box and switch can be omitted for our project since you can run this circuit right off of the perfboard and jacks if you want.

You also need 4 pieces of hookup wire and a battery snap.
Title: Can you tell me
Post by: aron on September 25, 2003, 07:12:22 PM
how you might "wire" i.e. connect the components using the most minimum amount of hookup wire?

Do you see that one of the electrolytic capacitors can be mounted right on top of another device?
Title: Re: Can you tell me
Post by: stratking on September 26, 2003, 01:19:33 AM
Quote from: aron
how you might "wire" i.e. connect the components using the most minimum amount of hookup wire?

Do you see that one of the electrolytic capacitors can be mounted right on top of another device?


The only possibility I see for doing this would be to somehow connect the 0.1uF cap straight to the input jack.  Is that correct?

stratking
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on September 26, 2003, 03:12:18 AM
I was thinking that the 47uF can be mounted directly on the pot lugs.

As for the rest of the components on the perfboard, you use their leads to connect them together.

Yes, there's even a use for the 300 extra resistors of "wrong" values you may have bought. You can use them for their leads!
Title: Ground points
Post by: aron on September 26, 2003, 06:12:25 AM
OK, let's "clean up" the schematic a little more.

Remember those ground points? They all connect together so:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/schem2.gif)
Title: Let's look at some of the components/parts you need
Post by: aron on September 26, 2003, 06:29:00 AM
Here's a film cap:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/film.JPG)

an electrolytic capacitor:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/1electro.jpg)

a resistor:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/1res.jpg)

a transistor:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/trans.jpg)

8 pin DIP socket:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/socket.JPG)


a potentiometer (front, then back)

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/pot2.jpg)
(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/pot.jpg)

a stereo Jack:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/stjack.jpg)

a mono jack:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/mjack.jpg)

wire:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/wire.jpg)

Finally, the collection of components:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/onsheet.JPG)
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: stratking on September 26, 2003, 11:25:38 AM
Quote from: aron
I was thinking that the 47uF can be mounted directly on the pot lugs.

As for the rest of the components on the perfboard, you use their leads to connect them together.

Yes, there's even a use for the 300 extra resistors of "wrong" values you may have bought. You can use them for their leads!


That makes a lot more sense, thats what I get for looking at the schem. when I'm busy.

stratking
Title: 9 vdc power supply
Post by: Cliff on September 27, 2003, 09:28:59 PM
Aron - First off, I want to express my gratitude for the time and effort you are putting in this project.  This is very cool.  Your willingness to share your knowledge is pretty amazing.  Of course, I'm just buttering you up for the first time I ask a dumb ass question. :D

As I intend to build this boost and then use it, it would be beneficial to me to have a 9 vdc Boss type input so that I can run it off a power supply rather than battery.  What do you think about including that in the schematic?  Anyone else?
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on September 28, 2003, 05:09:21 AM
We can do that, but there's a really easy way to add a DC jack. Simply add another battery snap in the box to the DC jack. Yep, that simple. We can also investigate putting in a protection diode.
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Mike Nichting on September 28, 2003, 05:10:17 PM
I would love to learn about adding DC jacks and especially the protection doide~!!
 BTW- i don't understand what you meant about the extra battery snap for the DC jack?? Can you explain that a little more in depth so it can reach my little brain :-)

Also, I would like to have switches explained to me in a very thouroguh way. How they work, how they switch and where they switch and why they are hooked up like they are. The difference between the DPDT and 3PDT switches and how to use the extra poles.

I didn't mean to take away from the schematic building. I will keep an eye out for those topics :-)
thanks
Mike N.
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: BD13UK on September 29, 2003, 07:21:28 AM
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/v2/diagrams/pjsnap.gif
I think Aron may be refering to the above method, mind you I'm only guessing at this.
Title: Layout for project
Post by: Cliff on October 01, 2003, 08:42:18 PM
Aron - I'm probably being ignorant, but I kind of expected the next step to be the development of a layout based upon your schematic.  Is this something you usually do before building?  I'm guessing that this circuit is so basic that you're skipping this step.

Second question:  On the parts list you indicated that we should purchase: "One NPN transistor 2N5088, 2N2222..."  My question is this: Which one?  Aren't these different?  Wouldn't a different transistor have a different affect upon the function of the box?

Me lame....I haven't made a parts order yet, so I can't participate on Sunday, but I'll be watching....
Title: Re: Layout for project
Post by: aron on October 01, 2003, 11:11:33 PM
Quote from: Cliff
Aron - I'm probably being ignorant, but I kind of expected the next step to be the development of a layout based upon your schematic.  Is this something you usually do before building?  I'm guessing that this circuit is so basic that you're skipping this step.


Nope, a layout is coming.

I draw a layout on my sketch tablet and then follow that when building onto perfboard.

Code: [Select]
"One NPN transistor 2N5088, 2N2222..."  My question is this: Which one?  Aren't these different?  Wouldn't a different transistor have a different affect upon the function of the box?

There will be slight differences mainly when turning the pedal all the way up. Basically you can use any of these small signal transistors NPN no problem. Gus designed the circuit so it's not dependent on the transistor make.

Quote
Me lame....I haven't made a parts order yet, so I can't participate on Sunday, but I'll be watching....


Don't worry, the whole idea is really to have it online for reference.

Thanks for the good questions!
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on October 02, 2003, 02:54:51 AM
What I usually do is sketch the schematic and a simple layout in my artist sketch book.

Like this:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/draftlayoutnpnboost.jpg)

Then I build right on top of the paper.

This way I can reference the schematic (which is right underneath) on the book.

This way I can jot down notes etc... right on the book.

I list 3 different ways of placing the components on the perfboard:

1: easiest
2: same except for the slightly tricky "jump" over the input wire.
3: minimal space layout. I usually do it this way with the components sticking up vertically off the board.

I like to put a sketch of the transistor and the pinout on the paper so I don't have to look for the datasheet.

BTW: the layouts I draw are as if you could see through the board - through the bottom.

re:

How to handwire on perfboard (http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/handwire.html)
Title: Questions
Post by: Cliff on October 03, 2003, 06:10:25 AM
Aron - I don't know why I didn't flash on this before, but how come no stomp switch and led?  Would these be easy to add to the schematic and layout?

Also, which box are you using to house this project?

Thanks much.
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on October 03, 2003, 01:12:24 PM
I always build the circuit without the box and switch first. Once I know it's working, then I add the switch and box it if I like it.

Yes, it's very easy to add.
Title: Smart thinking
Post by: Cliff on October 03, 2003, 04:05:06 PM
"Once I know it's working, then I add the switch and box it if I like it."

Smart....and very logical.  Tell me, have you done this before?  :D
Thanks
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on October 03, 2003, 05:30:39 PM
The box I use is the Hammond 1590BB, for mostly everything.
Title: Confusion about Pot Wiring
Post by: PeterJ on October 05, 2003, 05:56:48 PM
Aron -- First, thanks for doing this -- this will be a huge help to a newbie like me (most I've ever done is replace a stomp switch and a couple of jacks).

The schematic shows the 47uf capacitor connected to both the wiper of the pot and the lug going to ground, but in your sketch it looks like the cap is connected to the wiper and the lug connected to the rest of the circuit. Am I reading this right? Since I'm not good at schematics, can you clarify how to tell which lug is which and how the pot fits into the circuit? Thanks,

Peter
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on October 05, 2003, 06:52:09 PM
Hey, you are right!

I will fix this.

OK, it's fixed. Thanks!

Aron
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: cobainlives_05 on December 05, 2003, 07:14:33 PM
I was just wondering, why does it take a mono and a stereo jack?  And also, how do you know where to put the switch?
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: travissk on December 05, 2003, 07:28:41 PM
It could be done with two mono jacks, but a stero jack is useful on the input because the extra lead is used to detect when a guitar cord is inserted; the pedal is only on when a cord is present.
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on December 05, 2003, 08:27:35 PM
Quote from: cobainlives_05
I was just wondering, why does it take a mono and a stereo jack?  And also, how do you know where to put the switch?


That one is in the DIY FAQ under:How do I make the input jack switch the power on and off?

That switches the pedal on and off when the input jack is inserted.
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: pbsk8er03 on May 11, 2004, 03:28:49 PM
One .1uF (Film if possible)


Sorry im new here. Whats a .1uf???
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: pbsk8er03 on May 11, 2004, 03:43:43 PM
I couldnt find any .1 ufs or 10 ufs or anything that said UF on small bear :?
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on May 13, 2004, 11:59:34 AM
A capacitor's capacitance (something like electrical storage but alittle different) is measured in Farads or F for short. You can derive smaller units from that, and derived units use prefixes:

milli (mF) 1mF = 0.001F
micro (uF) 1uF = 0.001mF
nano (nF) 1nF = 0.001uF
pico (pF) 1pF = 0.001nF

These are all measures of capacitance, which means it's a capacitor ;) The largest cap you'll probably see is 1000uF, or 1mF but people use 1000uF for some reason. One thing to look out for with caps is that they have a maximum voltage rating. Anything above the max voltage in your circuit is OK (16v caps are good for 9v circuits). Anything bigger is OK but the size increases as you up the voltage. There's no point in using a huge 300v cap for a 9v pedal. :)

Look under 'capacitors' at SBE.
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on May 13, 2004, 12:02:42 PM
Oh I forgot to mention: some caps are polarized. These have an indicator for the negative lead on the package, usually with a '-' or an arrow or something. Most caps over 1uF are electrolythic and therefore polarized. It's important that you orient these correctly, otherwise they won't work and in extreme cases even explode. I've had that happen to me once and it gave a bad smell and an icky mess ;)
Title: capicitors
Post by: johnyze on June 10, 2004, 01:38:22 PM
Hey aron, how is it goin? Thanks for your quick reply before! I've got another question: when I purchased my parts, they gave me a polyester capicitor, and being the new guy I am, how does this affect the building of my pedal? It looks as if the cap is polarized, since one end is marked with a giant minus sign, but I am unsure. Please let me know what this means, or if I should just go out and purchase a film cap. Thanks

John
Title: Re: capicitors
Post by: aron on June 10, 2004, 06:22:47 PM
Quote from: johnyze
Hey aron, how is it goin? Thanks for your quick reply before! I've got another question: when I purchased my parts, they gave me a polyester capicitor,
John


Do you polarized capacitor???

You should have 3 of them. (10uF, 22uF and 47uF).

The .1uF input cap should be non-polarized.

Aron
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: chokeyou on August 21, 2004, 12:19:07 AM
hey i just bought all my stuff for this project and realized my capacitors were different- axial leads...do the little arrows in the stripe point to negative like i wired my perfboard up or do they point to positive...meaning i should just start over?
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: bazzwazzle on August 21, 2004, 12:30:26 AM
yep, the little arrows point to negative ;) your doing it right
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: vanhansen on September 03, 2004, 10:09:05 AM
Hey all.  I'm a complete newbee to this and am going to make an attempt at making this project.  I do have a few questions about the caps and resistors.

Are the resistors 1/2W or 1/4W?

What's the voltage of the caps?

Does any of this matter?

Thanks.

Erik
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: remmelt on September 03, 2004, 10:59:11 AM
i am not sure about the caps, but i think 1/4w are fine.

the voltage of this circuit is nowhere above 9v, so the first one above 9v is good. this will usualy be 16v caps.


have fun!
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Gismo834 on December 13, 2004, 08:09:46 AM
Quote from: smoguzbenjamin
A capacitor's capacitance (something like electrical storage but alittle different) is measured in Farads or F for short. You can derive smaller units from that, and derived units use prefixes:

milli (mF) 1mF = 0.001F
micro (uF) 1uF = 0.001mF
nano (nF) 1nF = 0.001uF
pico (pF) 1pF = 0.001nF

These are all measures of capacitance, which means it's a capacitor ;) The largest cap you'll probably see is 1000uF, or 1mF but people use 1000uF for some reason. One thing to look out for with caps is that they have a maximum voltage rating. Anything above the max voltage in your circuit is OK (16v caps are good for 9v circuits). Anything bigger is OK but the size increases as you up the voltage. There's no point in using a huge 300v cap for a 9v pedal. :)

Look under 'capacitors' at SBE.


So 0.1 uF means 100 nF ?
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: niftydog on December 13, 2004, 05:08:19 PM
yes.
Title: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: dominatrix_volleyball on May 28, 2005, 12:28:17 PM
I apologize if here isn't really the place for this, but I'm curious as to *how* schematics work. Correct me if I get anything wrong:


From what I can tell, the capacitors that the input and output flank are the coupling caps, which keep the DC signal from leaving the circuit. The capacitor parallel to the emitter forces the DC signal to go through the 47 K resistor to get to the voltage divider. The 10 K resistor leading to the base and the 100k resistor that goes around to the 9V is the voltage divider, which  sets the operating voltage of the transistor. And the 10 K resistor just outside of the collector controlls the output.

I don't quite understand the bypass capacitor, though, and why that was used as the boost control. Or the resistor near the output... but I can almost guess it's a filter.?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: trumpus on November 27, 2005, 01:15:33 AM
For the electrolytic capacitors, does it matter if they are axial or radial?  What is the difference?

Brian
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Burton on November 27, 2005, 02:02:18 AM
For the electrolytic capacitors, does it matter if they are axial or radial?  What is the difference?

Brian


Axial capacitors have leads coming from opposite ends.. kind of like resistors. Radial capacitors are the kind in the pictorial, with both leads coming from the bottom.  Radial capacitors take up less space on the PCB, so they are more commonly used.  You can use axial capacitors as long as you follow the schematic correctly, but your completed circuit will look slightly different from Aron's in the pictorial.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: trumpus on November 27, 2005, 02:07:58 AM
Thanks alot!!

Brian
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: DLH on December 14, 2005, 02:50:56 PM
I want to build this boost with a led, 3pdt footswitch, and the range control.

I've noticed that there is resistor between the LED and the switch. Is the resistor one of the resistors that are part of the circuit or is it  an addition? Also on the range control picture, it shows the range pot connected to a 1uf and 22uf capacitors. Are these part of the original circuit or additional components?

I've noticed a couple of posts referring to a DC jack, but I couldn't track down the info. Is there a link or thread I can read to learn how to add this?

Thanks.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: guythmike on February 05, 2006, 04:07:45 PM
i was looking around for capacitors to get an estimate as to how much all this is going to cost. when i looked for the .1 capacitor, all i found was 0.01. just to clarify, are these the same thing?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: mdh on February 07, 2006, 01:58:00 AM
i was looking around for capacitors to get an estimate as to how much all this is going to cost. when i looked for the .1 capacitor, all i found was 0.01. just to clarify, are these the same thing?

No, 0.01 is not the same as 0.1.  You want a 0.1uF (microfarad) capacitor; that's the same as 100nF (nanofarad). Remember:

pico = 10^-12
nano = 10^-9
micro = 10^-6
milli = 10^-3

Good luck.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: windwaker on February 17, 2006, 07:45:52 PM
Question; which resistor controls the gain?

edit: dur, the pot controls the gain.  I was just confused by that other thread with the guy who had one with two pots (volume and gain).
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ChamberMonk on March 21, 2006, 11:28:08 AM
Hi, I have just ordered two jacks, do you think these will do the job: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7335424424&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: llanafreak44 on March 21, 2006, 04:59:28 PM
I have a question, How do i put this on the bread board thing?, do i need to fix the board a certain way?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: hookus on March 26, 2006, 02:23:42 AM
What model transistor will give the cleanest boost?  I am using this for bass, so clean is a must.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: UP-G on March 30, 2006, 08:31:50 AM
Hey Aron,

Nice forum !!! I want to start building pedals, but I've never done something like this, so there will be some dumb ass questions while building I think !!!

So here it is: Question numbero uno !!!
Why do you use a stereo input jack instead of a mono ??? Will a mono input jack work as well ???

Thanks !!!
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: woulfer on March 30, 2006, 09:27:14 AM
The stereo jack is used as a power switch. The circuit is only powered when you plug a cord into the input jack.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: rubberabbit on April 03, 2006, 09:20:19 AM
hey guys

i just tore apart a busted modem of mine.

there are so many components in there!

well..jsut a question, abt the electrolyctic caps.. there are a few 10uF and 22uFs. but the voltages are like kinda random. even for the same uF, there are like 50v, and then 16v. do these voltages matter? or i only take into account the uF's?

thanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on April 03, 2006, 01:32:26 PM
16V or higher, fine for your 9V projects.

Yep you can use them.

Aron
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: wzrroc on April 16, 2006, 09:55:37 PM
Does it matter if i do not use a transistor socket. Can i just attach the transistor straight to the board?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: pyrop on April 16, 2006, 10:12:53 PM
Hi
Yes you can just solder the transistor to the board.
But it is recommended that you do use sockets because:
1. It is safer as transistor can be damaged from heat during soldering.
2. Can easily change the transistor. In case you put it in the wrong way round, IT HAPPENS. Use different one's i.e. higher gain, lower gain etc.

pyrop ;D
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: kwokwok on April 20, 2006, 12:55:44 AM
in regards to the Electrolytics caps.... i found sooo many types? anyone know the diff?
ELECTROLYTIC AXIAL 
ELECTROLYTIC BI-POLAR   
ELECTROLYTIC CHASSIS MT. (CAN TYPE) 
ELECTROLYTIC LOW ESR   
ELECTROLYTIC LOW LEAKAGE   
ELECTROLYTIC NON-POLAR   
ELECTROLYTIC RADIAL   
ELECTROLYTIC SNAP-IN   
ELECTROLYTIC SUB-MINIATURE   
ELECTROLYTIC SUPER CAPS   

wat do i need for this project?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: rockgardenlove on April 20, 2006, 02:23:30 AM
I like the axial ones...

Btw if you want to make it easy on yourself, just use smallbearelec.com
Really good site, and you're supporting the DIY stompboxers ;)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: kenny404 on June 16, 2006, 12:34:24 AM
Hey it seems kinda late to be asking this (and kinda stupid) but im a total noob and i need to know what kinda pedal is that schematic for because ive been looking for a schematic for ages and i found one but i dont know what its for

thanks to anyone who answers my q
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: vikingtyty on June 16, 2006, 07:08:19 PM
Hey it seems kinda late to be asking this (and kinda stupid) but im a total noob and i need to know what kinda pedal is that schematic for because ive been looking for a schematic for ages and i found one but i dont know what its for

thanks to anyone who answers my q

it's a simple clean boost.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: kenny404 on June 18, 2006, 01:36:39 PM
thanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: kenny404 on June 19, 2006, 10:10:20 PM
forget what i last said instead could somebody please post a pic of how the circut is supposed to look cuse im having alot :icon_eek: of trouble

thanks again ;)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: stevie-j on June 22, 2006, 06:32:15 AM
im new here
for the last few months ive been trying to build a fuzz pedal, but i couldnt get it working so im trying this boost now as it looks easier
what other easy projects are there on this site?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: cat on June 30, 2006, 04:23:50 AM
Hi guys,

Sorry to ask a newbie question but what kinda LED should I get for this project?

Thanks a bunch,

Cat
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: hendrixxx259 on July 12, 2006, 10:43:38 PM
How do you read the schematics? :icon_rolleyes:


Thanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: cornelvis on July 22, 2006, 07:22:48 PM
maybe it's already asked, but it won't be as many times as the question : "How do I read the schematics" ..... :icon_mrgreen:

what happens if I just add diodes to the output? will it make a distortion?

Like this :

-----------------------------
  |    |    |                     |
 --   \/   --                     |
                 <-------------------- output
 /\  --    --
  |   |     |
 __ __   __
  -   -     -

is this possible or am I wishfull thinking.
Let me know, because I'm still waiting for the stuff to come in and might go for a dive into my heap of components I have here.
I build a couple of things in the past and wanted to pick it up again as I was doing  CryBaby mods my self last time.

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Steve29988 on July 22, 2006, 09:33:57 PM
I'm joining the long line of beginners here, I have done some basic electronics at school and Im revising on everything. So I have a basic knowledge. But I don't understand is the effect that the transistor has on the pedal. What exactely does it do? I mean can I use any transistor? By having a socket and interchanging them does it produce a different sound? If so what range of transistors could I interchange back and forth from the circiut? I just dont understand whether I need a specific transistor, or whether any will suffice, and what effect different tranistors have on the sound the pedal produces. Thanks

Steve
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 22, 2006, 11:48:02 PM
Yes, changing the transistor will produce different "timbres". You can use any transistor that has similar specs to the 2N2222 transistor. If you go to your local electronics store and ask them for substitute transistors, they will be glad to give a number of transistors that will work in this circuit.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: cornelvis on July 23, 2006, 01:43:05 PM
Aron,

you didn't get me or is my question that stupid?  ;D

Greetzzz,

CornElvis
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Steve29988 on July 24, 2006, 04:18:54 AM
So does that mean I can use similar transistors in any pedal I decided to construct?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: cornelvis on July 24, 2006, 04:39:39 AM
So does that mean I can use similar transistors in any pedal I decided to construct?

depends on what pedal you are building, but you can always swap stuff out as long as they are equivalents
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Washington Irving on August 18, 2006, 07:20:25 PM
Can I use a 4K7 pot instead of 5k?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on August 24, 2006, 07:27:33 AM
yes, 4.7K is fine.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: blackroadmegastar on August 27, 2006, 02:05:28 AM
Hi I've never made a pedal before and my electronic knowledge is pretty much non existent, So i might have alot of questions and they are probably pretty lame. My question is: Even though this is a clean boost will it work if I have a distortion pedal in front of it and still keep the distortion?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on August 27, 2006, 02:07:53 PM
Yes. It will make your distortion pedal even louder.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: PNG123 on September 22, 2006, 11:58:07 AM
Nice Thread, thanks for sharing your wisdom with noobs like me  ;D

I still have some questions though:
1) What should i look out for ,for NOT Buying (ie: I am not an expert in electronics and where i live the hardware stored are owned by illeterate thieves. (Who will probably ened up giving me all the wrong stuff)

2) Could you post us a list of what each different component does to a pedal.
(EX: Capacitor alters tone right?)
(how would you get a phased/distorted/fuzzy etc.. effect?)

3) Someone mentioned where protective gear . Do i really need any protective gear?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on September 22, 2006, 12:22:15 PM
Someone just posted a component list but there's one in the threads. For protective gear you can use goggles if you want. As for what everything does, that's a little too complex to answer simply. There's a FAQ forum that you can browse through as well as the Wiki link above that should help you try and understand more.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: BWFalcon on October 11, 2006, 02:10:57 PM
Is there somewhere that explains the electronics through every component?  Example: from input, to .1mF cap which does ???.  Then this goes to ....


Thanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on October 11, 2006, 03:48:22 PM
This is not an easy task. The FAQ forum has a thread on components explained:

http://www.eleinmec.com/category.asp?4

Please check out the FAQs and the Wiki as well as the FAQ forum.

As for what the signal might look like - you might want to check out circuit simulators which will allow you to "see" what happens to a signal as it passes through a circuit.

Aron
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: BWFalcon on October 13, 2006, 12:33:23 PM
This may be up here somewhere, but if not....
Here's something that helped me figure this out.  I haven't started building yet, I am still in learning mode.  I downloaded PSPICE and set up the circut.  If you copy this in, the output will be a nice little graph that shows the signal getting boosted.  Now I can change different component values and learn what they do.

VSUPPLY VCC 0 9v
VIN IN 0 AC 0.4 SIN(0 .2V 1K)

R_R1         $N_0002 VCC  10k 
R_R5         VCC $N_0003  100k 
C_C3         $N_0003 $N_0004  22u 
Q_Q1         $N_0002 $N_0005 $N_0004 Q2N2222
C_C1         $N_0002 OUT  10u 
C_C4         0 $N_0007  47u 
R_R2         0 OUT  100k 
RT_R7         0 $N_0007 {(5k*(1-0.5))+.001}
RB_R7        $N_0007 $N_0004 {(5k*0.5)+.001}
R_R3         $N_0003 $N_0005  10k 
R_R4         0 $N_0003  47k 
C_C2         IN $N_0005  .1u 

.LIB
.TRAN .01E-03 2E-3
.PROBE
.END
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Aron Allen on November 30, 2006, 04:01:44 PM
Quote
Can you tell me how many capacitors, transistors & resistors there are in this circuit? Are there any more parts you need?

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/schem.gif)
Why do you have a 100k resistor on the output to ground? it dosent really make sense unless you want to limit the output. As far as i know there is no DC after a capacitor, so i dont really se the purpose of it.

EDIT: By the way cool place ... and i found a name brother (there ain't many Arons in the world)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: mewithyou on July 01, 2007, 07:53:07 PM
i just got the big pack of resistors and caps just ceramic from radio shack but the caps just say like 1 or 7 or 10 and thats it what does that mean
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 02, 2007, 04:35:04 PM
>caps just say like 1 or 7 or 10 and thats it what does that mean

I have no idea. Maybe it's just picofarads. Too small to really help.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: GREEN FUZ on July 02, 2007, 04:56:25 PM
>caps just say like 1 or 7 or 10 and thats it what does that mean

I have no idea. Maybe it's just picofarads. Too small to really help.

I believe you`re right. 10pf =0.00001uF, not a value commonly seen in guitar circuits if I`m not mistaken. Maybe someone will correct me.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: s.r.v. on July 09, 2007, 10:00:48 PM
what do you do with the ground wires? just solder them together?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on July 12, 2007, 10:43:46 PM
well actually got my guitar tonight(electric, had an acoustic) but have been lookin at this site for a while. my question about making this pedal- does it need a switch/button? or is there just a knob sticking out of it?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on July 12, 2007, 11:04:26 PM
ok sorry, i saw bout the switch. what must the standards be on the LED as far as voltage?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on July 19, 2007, 12:26:04 PM
okay bought all my parts today from radioshack and the others are coming in the mail from aron. my question is how to we use that 8DIP?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 19, 2007, 01:17:53 PM
Go to step 3:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=941.0
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on July 19, 2007, 02:13:08 PM
okay, so i see you cut it in half longways, then cut one socket out?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Wills831 on July 28, 2007, 07:00:03 AM
I've seen people talking about LEDs in this circuit, i can't see any  :-\ and how would you wire up a jack socket? thanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 28, 2007, 01:04:28 PM
Did you read Step #4?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Wills831 on July 31, 2007, 08:03:02 AM
nope :icon_redface:. i see it now, thanks  :D
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: micro on July 31, 2007, 12:20:08 PM
Thanks for this tutorial Aron!

One question....

In the parts list you have 22uf cap listed but not in the picture
of collected components. Also in the picture there is a 100uf cap
thats not in the parts list.  ???

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 31, 2007, 03:43:19 PM
>In the parts list you have 22uf cap listed but not in the picture
of collected components. Also in the picture there is a 100uf cap

I don't see it. Maybe you are seeing 100V?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: micro on August 01, 2007, 01:56:05 AM

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/onsheet.JPG)

hmmm...im a total noob, maybe im reading it wrong?
the one all the way to the right in the pic.

also there is no 22uf in the pic. right??

sorry i just was trying to follow this so closely cause this is my first project.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on August 01, 2007, 03:15:08 PM
Hehehehe YOU ARE RIGHT! No one seemed to catch this.

Just ignore this pic and go with what you know it should be.

Aron
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: iShawn on October 19, 2007, 12:05:23 AM
If one was feeling risky could one install a DPDT toggle switch that changes between 2 transistor types for different sounds?  Is the sound difference drastic enough to toggle between them?  Just though I'd make something that's a little different, and if you're installing a socket you're suggesting one might want to change the transistors easily (and for not messing the soldering up).  And what would be changed to add the treble boost mod that I've seen on here for this schematic?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on October 19, 2007, 04:34:47 PM
>If one was feeling risky could one install a DPDT toggle switch that changes between 2 transistor types for different sounds?  Is the sound difference drastic enough to toggle between them?

You could. But switching capacitors might yield more dramatic changes in sound.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: X_unknown13_X on November 01, 2007, 08:40:59 PM
Resistors:10k x2, 100k x2, 47k
Caps: .1uf(non-polarized), 10, 22, & 42uf(polarized)
Pot: 5K
Trans:NPN

Check this pcb and tell me if its right.
I wanted to try and make a pcb out of it.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=U8MNX44U (http://www.megaupload.com/?d=U8MNX44U)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on November 01, 2007, 10:34:52 PM
try uploading it to imageshack.us or flickr or photobuck...its easier than having to download it! ;)

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: X_unknown13_X on November 03, 2007, 05:28:20 PM
try uploading it to imageshack.us or flickr or photobuck...its easier than having to download it! ;)


Exporting an image on Express PCB doesn't show  the wires
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on November 03, 2007, 06:48:29 PM
oh sorry i thought it was an image file :icon_redface:
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: X_unknown13_X on November 07, 2007, 08:39:01 PM
oh sorry i thought it was an image file :icon_redface:
naw, PCB express. so you can modify it and send it back.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: james9 on November 19, 2007, 02:21:37 AM



(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/schem.gif)
are the 22 uF capacitor and the 10k resitor connected or does the diagram just make it look like the 100k the 10k the 47k and the 22uF are connected :icon_question:
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on November 19, 2007, 05:21:50 PM
>100k the 10k the 47k and the 22uF

All are connected.
Title: Transistor values?
Post by: red5ive on January 14, 2008, 03:26:48 PM
I have learned so much from this thread in the last week. Thanks guys.  Everyone here is awesome.

Is any NPN transistor okay or do I need a specific wattage? The one offered on Radio Shack .com is a 600mW. Is amperage or resistance a concern also?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: macaroni on January 15, 2008, 07:38:31 PM
Hey guys, i'm new here and i'm going to do this build as a starting point but i got a question.

For the Capacitors, there are 22uF 400v, 22uF 500v and so on, which one do i get? or does the voltages dont really matter?

thanks
Title: Re: Transistor values?
Post by: 12milluz on January 15, 2008, 09:24:03 PM
I have learned so much from this thread in the last week. Thanks guys.  Everyone here is awesome.

Is any NPN transistor okay or do I need a specific wattage? The one offered on Radio Shack .com is a 600mW. Is amperage or resistance a concern also?

Those should work fine. I used these: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062586&cp=2032058.2032230.2032279&allCount=27&fbn=Type%2FTransistor&f=PAD%2FProduct+Type%2FTransistor&fbc=1&parentPage=family

Happy building! :)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: GravityRobert on January 25, 2008, 10:35:04 PM
Is there any way I could use a dc jack instead of a 9v battery? Does the pedal use a lot of energy or is it ok to run it for a while on a battery alone? My only other effects pedal eats 9 volts for breakfast  ;D
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on January 25, 2008, 11:42:57 PM
I refer to this: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/
Title: Re: type of resistor?? and a transistor ?
Post by: missing_dave on February 13, 2008, 09:54:08 AM
carbon comp,metal film??  (im using small bear)

also (and was asked earlier by someone)  has anyone found a low gain transistor?? would like this to be as clean of a boost as possible...



  also a big thanks to aron and all of you for this wonderful thread and help :icon_smile:

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on February 13, 2008, 03:51:09 PM
Any type - try metal film. I think the distortion that you hear is more of a function of the voltage limits if you use 9V.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: missing_dave on February 13, 2008, 04:21:32 PM
Any type - try metal film. I think the distortion that you hear is more of a function of the voltage limits if you use 9V.

thank you for the response aron...well i havent heard anything yet..parts are on order ;D was just reading alot and the boost has some grit to it?? not a bad thing at all but was just thinking ahead as far as trying to order all the possible parts in the one order. but reading your post gets me thinking that if i use higher rated (voltage) parts  i could potentially run the pedal at a higher voltage say 12 or 18 to get more headroom???or does the dc jack get a treatment the opposite as say the step down for leds?or am i way ahead of myself? i have a feeling i am and its not that easy.. thanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: adam11 on February 25, 2008, 03:57:45 PM
Hi

starting to build this project. Getting all my parts at the mo.
I have a few (nooooooob) questions though. most fairly general.

Is there a particular reason you favour the .1uF Film cap? (over ceramic(?))

What exactly does the battery power? Leds resistors etc?

Would it be easy to wire up a power socket for standard ac/dc transformer thingy to replace the battery?

5K linear pot - are you better with a logarithmic pot? are they much harder to find/more expensive?

The only difference between switches is the number of terminals they have? In theory you could use an SPDT or DPDT in place of a 3PDT or even 4PDT, but it would just be more crowded?

What ther hell is a transistor (ie what does it do?)

Thaaaaanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on February 25, 2008, 07:22:38 PM
Hi

starting to build this project. Getting all my parts at the mo.
I have a few (nooooooob) questions though. most fairly general.

Is there a particular reason you favour the .1uF Film cap? (over ceramic(?))

What exactly does the battery power? Leds resistors etc?

Would it be easy to wire up a power socket for standard ac/dc transformer thingy to replace the battery?

5K linear pot - are you better with a logarithmic pot? are they much harder to find/more expensive?

The only difference between switches is the number of terminals they have? In theory you could use an SPDT or DPDT in place of a 3PDT or even 4PDT, but it would just be more crowded?

What ther hell is a transistor (ie what does it do?)

Thaaaaanks
Hi! Welcome to FX building!

Generally, film caps have a smoother sound than ceramic, although they are interchangeable.
The  battery powers the actual circuit as well as the LED. The battery is essential to make the boost happen. A passive circuit would not boost at all. As for the transformer, it would take up a lot of room. Most people create a power "brick" which they use to power all of their effects. Putting a transformer and such in each pedal would not be piratical. I would go with just the linear, although I don't know much about pots. As far as switches, the 3DPT is the easiest for bypass with a status LED. You could use a DPDT which a circuit that would enable use of the LED, but the 3PDT switch is much easier. Crowding the lugs of the switch and substituting in lugs for the others will not work. A Transistor actually  makes the boost. It adds the power to the circuit and deals with that sort of thing. It is essential in this circuit. Hope this helps!

Anthony
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: rocknrollrob on February 26, 2008, 12:09:35 PM
**WARNING** - NOOB incoming...

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh (splat)

Allrite guys hows it going?
Got a few noobish questions to ask if that is OK?

1.  I always thought electrons flowed from the negative of a battery (- charge means they flow from + to - ?)  So that would mean that the power in this circuit would be coming from the ground?  But many circuits have diodes in them on the way to the ground...

Please explain :-\

2.  Why do you put the pot right before the ground?  Doesn't this make it so that the signal would not be affected between the input and output?  Heck why are any of the resistors that go to the ground there?

3.  What's the capacitor doing in series with the pot?  Is this to preserve tonal quality of some kind?  How does it do this?

4.  When you tell me you can't answer 2 / 3, what book should I get to explain it?  I am interested in how exactly these circuits do what they do (please don't say magic)

5.  Did you guys learn this by reading or just experimenting like crazy? 

6.  If I'm going down the mega experiment route, is the maplin GCSE started pack + some pots + input / output + a 3pdt    what I will need to get going?


Thanks a lot,

Rob

  :)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on February 26, 2008, 12:23:28 PM
I can't really answer your questions, for the most part I'm as lost as you, however, take a look at this: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/HIW/hiw1.gif
It helped me understand things. And while the circuit is not the exact same, the principles remain the same.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: adam11 on February 27, 2008, 05:47:14 PM
Hi

starting to build this project. Getting all my parts at the mo.
I have a few (nooooooob) questions though. most fairly general.

Is there a particular reason you favour the .1uF Film cap? (over ceramic(?))

What exactly does the battery power? Leds resistors etc?

Would it be easy to wire up a power socket for standard ac/dc transformer thingy to replace the battery?

5K linear pot - are you better with a logarithmic pot? are they much harder to find/more expensive?

The only difference between switches is the number of terminals they have? In theory you could use an SPDT or DPDT in place of a 3PDT or even 4PDT, but it would just be more crowded?

What ther hell is a transistor (ie what does it do?)

Thaaaaanks
Hi! Welcome to FX building!

Generally, film caps have a smoother sound than ceramic, although they are interchangeable.
The  battery powers the actual circuit as well as the LED. The battery is essential to make the boost happen. A passive circuit would not boost at all. As for the transformer, it would take up a lot of room. Most people create a power "brick" which they use to power all of their effects. Putting a transformer and such in each pedal would not be piratical. I would go with just the linear, although I don't know much about pots. As far as switches, the 3DPT is the easiest for bypass with a status LED. You could use a DPDT which a circuit that would enable use of the LED, but the 3PDT switch is much easier. Crowding the lugs of the switch and substituting in lugs for the others will not work. A Transistor actually  makes the boost. It adds the power to the circuit and deals with that sort of thing. It is essential in this circuit. Hope this helps!

Anthony

Hello!

That's wonderful ta.
And the power brick is what i meant there. You can just wire up a (2.1mm?) socket in place of the battery snap which you could connect to the power brick?

My understanding is that logarithmic pots are often preferred over linear because they react with the ear more smoothly. ie the ear(s) hear logarithmic sounds as linear. They're more expensive and harder to find though?



Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on February 27, 2008, 05:57:25 PM
Yes, you could wire in a power jack. Take a look here: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=93 That explains what hooks up where. And with the pots, they are usually about the same price, and not too hard to find.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: adam11 on March 01, 2008, 02:50:03 PM
5k pots are a little hard to find in the UK i've found. The closest I can get readily is 4.7k. Will this have a major effect on the sound?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on March 01, 2008, 03:03:03 PM
No, I believe that should work fine.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: adam11 on March 01, 2008, 03:28:14 PM
excellent, this place is bloody fantastic
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: adam11 on March 05, 2008, 04:19:07 PM
Yes, you could wire in a power jack. Take a look here: http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=93 That explains what hooks up where. And with the pots, they are usually about the same price, and not too hard to find.

I'm a little confused as to how to wire up the dc jack.

'To Board -' is to the ground of the circuit (ground lug of input)?

'To Board +' is the Power V+ of the circuit?

But 'To Battery +' and 'To Battery -'  ?? I thought the jack eliminated the need of a battery?


Help?

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on March 05, 2008, 05:18:55 PM
Well if you wired it as it says with a battery, it will run off battery when it is not plugged in and will run off wall power when it is plugged in. That is the standard for most pedals.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: adam11 on March 05, 2008, 05:33:26 PM
I see.

I've always taken the battery out when I've bought a pedal with DC jack.

is it necessary to use all the lugs on the jack then?

Also, (assuming i can wire the jack up right) i shouldn't have any problems using 'em to replace jacks for ehx pedals etc that are 9v DC but don't have the regular DC jack?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on March 05, 2008, 06:53:11 PM
I believe you would just not wire up the + battery lug and obviously forget about the second wire on the "-" lug. The jack works as a switch, so when nothing is in it, it is connecting those lugs. You can buy a regular jack (usually cheaper) without the third lug if you wish to not use that switching method with a battery.
You should be able to replace given that the jacks are the same size and specifications.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: adam11 on March 06, 2008, 03:06:33 PM
Ah ok. Think i'll connect  a battery snap anyway, in case of emergencies etc.

Thanks, you've been loads of help
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on March 06, 2008, 04:53:43 PM
No problem, glad I could help! :)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: yatesie on March 24, 2008, 03:59:01 AM
hey im like a total beginner 2 all this stuff n wantd 2 try 2 build this but r havin a few problems
does any1 know where i could get all of this stuff in australia
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 12milluz on March 24, 2008, 11:18:03 AM
Try smallbearelec.com. They should have anything, and Steve (who owns it) is a pedal builder himself who contributes here. Support the pedal building cause!
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ConanB on March 24, 2008, 10:38:03 PM
I'm in Aus down in Melbourne and I've found the best places to get all these parts is Jaycar (www.jaycar.com.au) and Altronics (www.altronics.com.au). They have stores around most places.

Dick Smith also has "some" of the parts but not all, but they are where I get most of my pots and DC jacks. The pots from Jaycar only come in the large 24mm style which isn't what your after. You want 16mm or there abouts.

You could also try Futurlec if you want to shop online (www.futurlec.com.au) but I've had mixed experiences with them. First order arrived within a week. Order I placed last week though seems to have gone missing. Wasn't charged for it though so I guess I'll just order again.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: H5N1 on June 03, 2008, 11:59:03 PM
Aron wrote: "Once I know it (The circuit) is working, then I add the switch and box it if I like it."

Where do you test the circuit? Do you use a breadboard?
-H
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: jonjon on June 04, 2008, 06:44:46 AM
i think Aaron means . instead of wiring the switch in, he wires the circuit directly to the jacks. to make sure that part works  .
and if it works then put the switch in the circuit .
 if it does not work then, then you know the circuit is working, so the problem is with the switch wiring .

then if that is working... put it in an enclosure and if it stops working, then you probably have a short (ground touching something that is not supposed to be touching the ground, the whole enclosure is a ground if it is a metal case once you attach the jacks and pot)
doing it that way just makes trouble shooting easier .
hope that helps.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ThatHilleyBoy on July 13, 2008, 11:00:17 PM
ummmmmmmmmm i was wondering... how do you tell the difference between an audio taper and linear taper pot on a schematic? i don't see what indicates the difference. all i see is that "(linear)" is on the parts list next to the 5k pot.

P.S. i have built this as my first build and it has got me hooked! sounds AMAZING.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ThatHilleyBoy on July 13, 2008, 11:02:41 PM
OH one more thing! what is the difference in sound between metal film and carbon film resistors? is there one? thanks!
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 14, 2008, 02:35:14 PM
Less hiss with metal film. For the pots, audio will be indicated or something like 100KA or similar.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ThatHilleyBoy on July 14, 2008, 09:58:49 PM
thanks! so you would say metal film are better? Also, can an NPN germanium transistor be used for this, and how does, say, an AC127 germanium compare to a 2N2222 silicon? thanks again!
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 14, 2008, 10:16:19 PM
I think you need to use regular Si transistors in this circuit. I use metal film when I can, but it probably won't make much difference.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ThatHilleyBoy on July 14, 2008, 11:39:28 PM
alright... well thanks again aron! this is a great forum, extremely helpful!
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ThatHilleyBoy on July 15, 2008, 01:45:42 AM
one more question.. haha! if i were to solder two resistors in series, say, two 1k resistors, would it make a 2k resistor? or is that not how it works at all?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on July 15, 2008, 04:18:54 PM
Yes, 2K but the FAQ says that already :-)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Rawkgod on November 14, 2008, 09:51:45 AM
Ok, I don't want to sound like a noob[thought I am] But just making sure, We don't need a Circuit board to make this pedal?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on November 14, 2008, 01:58:21 PM
You don't need a printed circuit board, just perfboard. You can get it from the STORE link above.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Rawkgod on November 14, 2008, 03:53:52 PM
thank you aron  :)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Rawkgod on November 17, 2008, 05:22:02 PM
ok aron I have just one last question that has to do with all pedals. Do pedals[besides digital pedals] need circuit boards? Or does it just differ among the type of pedal?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Zben3129 on November 17, 2008, 07:56:48 PM
Pedals need their parts to be electrically connected, and this doesn't neccesarily require a board

For most pedals, this means a circuit board of some kind, whether it be simple perfboard, vero, or a special PCB. Boards allow for a solid base for the circuit giving it mechanical stability. Also, boards are easily reproducable and convenient to work with.

Some pedals have circuits with so few parts that they can be wired "point to point". This is a method of attaching components to things like jacks and switches, and attatching components together by themselves.

Zach
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Rawkgod on November 18, 2008, 09:53:15 PM
thank you Zach
 I have also read few things about that I even saw a picture of a guy using a 2X4 as a pedal.  I have also seen schematics of loopers that only have  one resistor and four jacks so I could see how that comes into play. But anyway I just have one last question.
I've gone to

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php

and have seen that some pedals have PCBs.
and I'm just making sure.

Analogue pedals don't need PCBs?
Or
Can they have them, but still do the same thing?

Best Regards  and thanks once again,

Rawkgod

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Zben3129 on November 18, 2008, 10:20:29 PM
thank you Zach
 I have also read few things about that I even saw a picture of a guy using a 2X4 as a pedal.  I have also seen schematics of loopers that only have  one resistor and four jacks so I could see how that comes into play. But anyway I just have one last question.
I've gone to

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php

and have seen that some pedals have PCBs.
and I'm just making sure.

Analogue pedals don't need PCBs?
Or
Can they have them, but still do the same thing?

Best Regards  and thanks once again,

Rawkgod



I depends how you define need. Rocket ships technically don't need rocket fuel to get to space, we could just build a giant ladder. But that wouldn't be very practical.

Looking at the practical side of things, anything with an IC (chip) needs a board of some sort. Anything with transistors and no IC's can be wired without a board in various ways, and something with no semicounducters (just resistors and capacitors, and diodes even though they are semiconductors) can be easily wired without a board.

For example:

Board neccesary: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=82&Itemid=26
Board preferable, but very doable without: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=101&Itemid=26
Board not really neccesary at all: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=215&Itemid=26


These aren't concrete rules. For example, the BSIAB2 (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=105&Itemid=26) fits the "board optional" category, as it has no IC's, however it has a high parts count so I would never consider doing this project without a board. I can't imagine anyone else would either but I can't speak for them.



Zach
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Rawkgod on November 22, 2008, 02:48:25 PM
thank you
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: CrankitUP on January 27, 2009, 11:15:25 AM
am i getting it right, that the schematic on top is the schematic for the boost-pedal (beginner project, however you call it...)

sorry if this is a stupid question, but it looks so easy
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: MATT on May 20, 2009, 10:14:19 PM
Wow this forum explained so much to me. I now have some knowledge of how to read these things and how they work, but i just have one question, what does the 8DIB thing do?

thanks again,
Matt
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on May 21, 2009, 06:12:07 PM
Oh, it's just a way to make a transistor socket (3 holes for the transistor to go into). This was before I had transistor sockets. Now I have these:

snappable sockets. (http://diystompboxes.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=33&zenid=0a705c77e3fcdd210297cf15a8446863)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: MATT on May 21, 2009, 11:13:41 PM
oh and what it is powered once you plug the cord into the input jack right. so how would you get a switch on there\
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on May 22, 2009, 03:27:45 AM
The input jack is the switch - like most of the pedals out there. Unplug to turn the unit off.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: jmclaren on August 25, 2009, 04:28:15 PM
I have a few 100uf electrolytic caps on hand.  Could I safely substitute one of these for the 22uf cap in the beginner project?

Also, would the tone be significantly effected if I used a tantalum cap in place of the 10uf electrolytic?

Thanks for a great project!
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: .Mike on August 25, 2009, 06:29:45 PM
I have a few 100uf electrolytic caps on hand.  Could I safely substitute one of these for the 22uf cap in the beginner project?
You can try it, although I'm not sure how it will impact the sound. If it doesn't sound very good, you could try putting 100uF capacitors in series. Two in series would equal 50uF, three would be 33.3 uF, four would be 25uF, and five would be 20uF.

Quote
Also, would the tone be significantly effected if I used a tantalum cap in place of the 10uf electrolytic?
Probably not. According to the wiki entry, tantalum capacitors (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tantalum_capacitor) are electrolytic capacitors, just a different type. The standard can-type are aluminum electrolytic capacitors.

Mike
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on August 25, 2009, 07:19:01 PM
>Could I safely substitute one of these for the 22uf cap in the beginner project?

Yes you can use it. It will give you more bottom end if the input has bass that extends down. For the guitar, it should be fine.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: jmclaren on August 29, 2009, 12:57:16 PM
Thanks for the replys, guys.  I'm collecting the parts to build this project now.   Does the pot adjust distortion or volume?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on August 29, 2009, 03:15:58 PM
Volume but at the highest range it will distort.
You can also get all the parts from the STORE link above.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: 1tczx on December 03, 2009, 10:22:05 PM
using 2 stereo jacks for input n output wud be fine right guys?>
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: speghead on April 15, 2010, 09:14:03 PM
I tried this out right now on breadboard .. I'm using B10k pot is that ok instead of the 5k?  All I'm getting is a ticking noise every .5 second .. guitar plays through it but the pot doesn't seem to affect the boost.. going to double check wiring..
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Martz on June 06, 2010, 06:21:01 PM
I ordered the parts, I don't know which one is the input capacitor (.1uF cap)?
I got nothing like that image.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on June 06, 2010, 11:39:30 PM
The gray small capacitor - like a small square with two leads.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Load3r on June 07, 2010, 10:09:40 AM
using 2 stereo jacks for input n output wud be fine right guys?>

Stereo jack will work fine for your output. The extra lug won't affect anything. Solder on!  8)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: stratomaster15 on June 07, 2010, 07:20:16 PM
I have a question here about the pot. Might be bogus, but why not try!

From the schematic, it looks as though the 5k pot is the feedback stabilizing resistor. Since a lower resistor value here means a lower amount of gain, could I use say a 1k pot to give the pedal lower gain? Would I have to change the value of the 47 uF capacitor if this works?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: casablanca on September 13, 2010, 05:19:51 PM
Can someone please post a pcb layout for this project. Or can someone tell me how to do it? (Please make it easy :D)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: .Mike on September 13, 2010, 06:24:40 PM
Can someone please post a pcb layout for this project. Or can someone tell me how to do it? (Please make it easy :D)

This is the beginner project, which is a series of topics that pretty much walk you right through the process of building the NPN Boost. The next topic in the series is 3: Build Pictorial (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=941.0), which shows you how to build the project on a piece of perf board.

Part of the challenge, fun, and learning experience of building this project is in laying out the components. It also makes the reward-- a working circuit-- that much more rewarding.

:)

Mike
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: osb_tensor on October 23, 2010, 12:57:16 AM
ok, so i'm the newest new guy on the block with questions...

i'm not seeming to find all of the parts required for this beginners project at a single spot... is it normal to have to order half of what i need from small bear, half from the diy store and at least one part [if not more] from a 3rd store? i'm afraid i may be misunderstanding something.. such as the 22uF electrolytic capacitor i can't find at either place. am I missing it?

22uF = .022mF  Correct?

I've found .22mF, 2.2mF, and 220mF, but not a single .022mF ... just double checking since i'm new and it's very possible [read: highly likey] that i'm screwing up somewhere.

this thread is great.. i've learned a lot and haven't even done anything yet.. great work guys. much appreciated! thanks for any help in advance

- justin
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: .Mike on October 23, 2010, 03:28:53 AM
Hi Justin,

Aron was selling kits in the store here at the forum, but it seems he is either out of them, or no longer selling them. You may want to PM him to see if he has any plans to add it back to the store (or he might reply here, since he seems to follow this topic).

You should be able to buy 100% of what you need at Smallbear-- perfboard, jacks, switch, enclosure, and all the other parts.

For the capacitor, Smallbear uses mF for microfarad, commonly abbreviated here as uF or occasionally F or just u. For a 22uF capacitor for this project, you would want something like Smallbear sku 1404, which are $0.20 each. You want 22mF.

Good luck! :)

Mike
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on October 23, 2010, 04:08:03 AM
Sorry, I will add the kit back shortly. Just busy dealing with other things right now.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: osb_tensor on October 23, 2010, 02:24:01 PM
ok.. understood, but that leads to another question...

the following is a quote from reply #30 in this thread, is it accurate? this is what I was basing my information off of, but it would be very confusing if one prefix, mF, could have two different meanings. mf = milli and/or micro ?? if this is accurate could someone explain further, if it's inaccurate then I believe i understand the prefixes and will move on..

i've started a reference guide so that i don't have to scroll through pages of replies to find info and this was part of it.. seemed like somewhat important info. I just want to make sure my references are accurate.

milli (mF) 1mF = 0.001F
micro (uF) 1uF = 0.001mF
nano (nF) 1nF = 0.001uF
pico (pF) 1pF = 0.001nF

thanks mike!

- justin
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: .Mike on October 23, 2010, 02:58:28 PM
Hi Justin,

Yes, what you posted is technically correct. For some reason, though, Smallbear likes to use mF instead of uF. It has created confusion in the past, but that's the way they do it.

Here (http://www.justradios.com/uFnFpF.html) is a chart that may help you in the future. :)

Mike
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: osb_tensor on October 23, 2010, 03:15:14 PM
ah ok.. again thanks for the info. killer thread for beginners!

-j
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: ianw91 on November 24, 2010, 12:27:10 PM
I guys, looking for a bit of help. I have the circuit built on breadboard. only problem i have is that im not sure how to connect the pot. the diagram shows a capacitor crossing it, does this mean i put a capacitor leg on either side of the pot connection wire? thanks for any help
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: IIVV145CEO on January 06, 2011, 06:33:34 PM
What value resistor do I need to hookup the LED?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on January 06, 2011, 09:34:44 PM
Try a 1K and make it larger if it's too bright.

Aron
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: BarnyardBill on January 22, 2011, 01:55:49 PM
It could be done with two mono jacks, but a stero jack is useful on the input because the extra lead is used to detect when a guitar cord is inserted; the pedal is only on when a cord is present.

Ok, I was wondering about the stereo jack and why some layouts use two monos.  I guess you could also use a stereo jack as a mono by not using the extra "ring"?  I was building two pedals in one, so I was wondering about this and how it would affect the two in one effect if I switched the order of them.  Going to try it on the breadboard right now!

Bill
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on January 22, 2011, 01:57:22 PM
The stereo jack is so that you can turn the power on and off by unplugging the cord.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: .Brandon on January 31, 2011, 11:49:21 AM
Hello! Entirely new to all electronics. After reading around for a few days am I correct in assuming that the transistor is what directly effects the tone of the pedal? If so, would you be able to tell me which Transistor would give my boost the cleanest signal?

- Thanks :)
 Brandon
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on January 31, 2011, 03:52:07 PM
The entire circuit affects the signal. It's really difficult to single out any particular part. Having enough headroom before clipping will give you the cleanest signal.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: bigmufffuzzwizz on March 13, 2011, 11:52:30 PM
How to handwire on perfboard (http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/handwire.html)

great little walkthrough! sometimes i get a headache trying to figure it out in my head. really need to jot it down and work from there! I hope to do a vero or perf layout of the dragonfly seven :icon_mrgreen:
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: rudedog1 on April 02, 2011, 10:17:27 AM
I would like to see this project as a grab bag in the store or in a new section called tutorials... Im new to this and not exactly sure which resistor I need when it just says something like 10k. I just purchased a soldering iron and a voltage meter and I'm eager to get my feet wet...

It sure would help the noobs like me to have the project available as a kit in the store and I'd love to buy it here and support the forums rather then the radiohut downtown.

Any thoughts?  8)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: blackcorvo on July 13, 2011, 04:26:44 AM
I would like to see this project as a grab bag in the store or in a new section called tutorials... Im new to this and not exactly sure which resistor I need when it just says something like 10k. I just purchased a soldering iron and a voltage meter and I'm eager to get my feet wet...

It sure would help the noobs like me to have the project available as a kit in the store and I'd love to buy it here and support the forums rather then the radiohut downtown.

Any thoughts?  8)

It would be of big help to you to check the resistor color code, and have it always around you to identify a resistor's value: http://www.williamson-labs.com/images/res-color-code.gif
I kinda accidentally memorized it when I started studying electronics (and I'm not even kidding... I just woke up one day reading values in a couple resistors and got really surprised).
Would be nice if you could memorize it too, but it's not really necessary if you don't mind checking on a paper for reference.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: drinkingfiction on October 07, 2011, 11:22:44 AM
Curious... looking at smallbear almost all their caps are measured in mf.  the .1uF input cap would be the equivalent of a .0001mF cap?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: drinkingfiction on October 07, 2011, 11:24:46 AM
I would like to see this project as a grab bag in the store or in a new section called tutorials... Im new to this and not exactly sure which resistor I need when it just says something like 10k. I just purchased a soldering iron and a voltage meter and I'm eager to get my feet wet...

It sure would help the noobs like me to have the project available as a kit in the store and I'd love to buy it here and support the forums rather then the radiohut downtown.

it is actually available in the store as a kit... everything you need for the board... just no case i think.

Any thoughts?  8)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: super j on October 30, 2011, 07:31:29 PM
Curious... looking at smallbear almost all their caps are measured in mf.  the .1uF input cap would be the equivalent of a .0001mF cap?

I had the same problem when looking at smallbear's caps recently. I found this on their faq page:
Quote
Capacitor values on the Stock List are Always expressed either as Microfarad (You'll see it as mf., mfd., uf., uF. in schematics and lists,) or picofarad (pf.). The use of mf. as "millifarad" is a change of recent years; it can be confusing, but the correct translation will be clear enough from how the capacitor is being used.

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Little_Horn on December 13, 2011, 05:56:30 PM
Hey everyone!

This is my first electronics project and I might say it went very well and I'm very happy.
There is just one small detail:

I could not find a linear 5k pot and had to settle for a 5k log pot.
The thing is that I can only control the volume in the final 20% (more or less) of the rotation of the pot.
I even tried to experiment with a 1k ohm resistor I have laying around, and connected it to the center pin of the pot and to the pin that has no cap in it, and no matter what position the pot is in, it reads 80 k ohm on the multimeter.  :icon_eek:
I also experimented with every other position on the pot, and the results were not what I expect.
So, my question is: can anybody tell me a way to make this log pot work (more or less) like a linear pot?

Thanks.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Musok on November 11, 2012, 01:49:44 PM
Hey guys!

Sooo... Newbie here and having a problem hooking up a transistor. I wired the schematic and no sound so I got rid of everything and starting slowly using the amp as a way to have a feedback. Hooking output to input directly of course I have a good feedback. I added the first capacitor and no problems here. Now, I hooked the transistor... it doesn't make any sound. i hook up the input (already with the 0.1uf) to the base and then i try to get the output on the emitter and no signal and same on the collector.

Ideas?

(From what I get this shouldn't be here sooo.... I'm making a new topic. Please moderators delete this and sorry for the inconvenience)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: il_mix on December 20, 2012, 08:11:07 AM
Hi guys!
I started my DIY pedal adventure with this simple project...with not so much luck at the moment.
I made my circuit on a breadboard, checked everything seeeeeveral times, but I still get this behaviour:
- pot in starting position: no sound
- start rotating pot: no sound for a while, than something starts to came out
- near the end of the pot, distorsion with low volume for a while
- than, normal boost effect (volume increase while rotating) for a couple of rotation degrees
- finally, distorsion at high volume

...????
I'm using a 4.7K linear pot. I'm testing the circuit with an electic bass, not a guitar (don't know if this could be the problem.
Also, I've tested it with 2N2222A and 2N3904, with the same results.

Any hint about what could be the problem?
Thanks to everyone!
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on December 20, 2012, 04:29:57 PM
>Any hint about what could be the problem?

Well it's obviously a wiring mistake but where?????
Make the poor mans version of the audio probe (check the debugging page). All you do is "tap" into different parts of the circuit by wiring the output jack to different parts of the circuit on the breadboard.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: il_mix on December 21, 2012, 03:08:49 AM
Make the poor mans version of the audio probe

Thank aaron. I'll give it a try.
The breadboard is tiny, so the circuit is a little mess. But I've checked it a lot of times... We'll see.
If I have further problems I'll open a new thread (better than mess up this one...).
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: jhferguson on February 14, 2013, 11:14:09 AM
Would the wiring be different if you wanted to use an audio pot in place of the linear pot? What are the pros and cons to this?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: gnort_2 on June 12, 2013, 05:20:37 PM
hi,  New here new to pedals.  I have only built the stutter switch over at beavis audio.  Went together well.  Few questions...

1. Is this board still active? ( I guess ill find out)?

2.  Is there an "official" parts list to build this npn boost?  (i feel there are a few incomplete lists on the forum but was hoping for a more foolproof list as i may screw it up)

3.  Am I better building the beginner project here or the "Tweako" box from small bear as my next learning project?

Thanks
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on June 12, 2013, 07:45:20 PM
Hi! This IS the official parts list thread! Read from the beginning!

Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: artifus on June 12, 2013, 07:51:22 PM
yo, aron! what's the score for us non-us resident and european types?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: gnort_2 on June 12, 2013, 09:09:15 PM


   2: The Schematic and parts list
Reply #5 on: September 25, 2003, 04:57:29 PM

Very good!

One .1uF (Film if possible)
Three Electrolytics 10uF, 22uF and 47uF
Two 10K resistors
One 47K resistor
Two 100K resistors
One NPN transistor 2N5088, 2N2222 etc....
One 5K linear pot.

Yes, you need a stereo input jack, mono output jack, perfboard, box and switch. In addition, either a transistor socket or DIP8 IC socket (easily found).

The box and switch can be omitted for our project since you can run this circuit right off of the perfboard and jacks if you want.

You also need 4 pieces of hookup wire and a battery snap.



I think this would be the official list then....?

Thanks for prompt response. 

Am I better off building this or the tweako fuzz pedal for next step in my learning?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on June 13, 2013, 03:58:20 PM
Of course you are better off building this project :-)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: gnort_2 on June 13, 2013, 04:01:07 PM
Those are the right parts then?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on June 14, 2013, 01:09:50 AM
Yes
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: gnort_2 on June 16, 2013, 12:15:01 PM
667-ECQ-U2A104KL ECQ-U2A104KL Film Capacitors .1uF 275V 10%  

1. If i Ordered This from mouser, is it the right voltage for the first item on the parts list?

2. Also on the parts list there is no indication of voltage.  I noticed when going to mouser to order parts that there are many a voltage option.  What voltages for which parts do i want?  

3.  Ohms choices for the resistors?  What should i order?

BTW thanks to everyone who has a true passion and knowledge on this board.  It is one thing to be knowledgable in regards to a subject, and is another thing to be willing to share that knowldge with patience.   its cool thanks.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: bluebunny on June 17, 2013, 04:37:54 PM
667-ECQ-U2A104KL ECQ-U2A104KL Film Capacitors .1uF 275V 10%  

1. If i Ordered This from mouser, is it the right voltage for the first item on the parts list?

2. Also on the parts list there is no indication of voltage.  I noticed when going to mouser to order parts that there are many a voltage option.  What voltages for which parts do i want?  

3.  Ohms choices for the resistors?  What should i order?

BTW thanks to everyone who has a true passion and knowledge on this board.  It is one thing to be knowledgable in regards to a subject, and is another thing to be willing to share that knowldge with patience.   its cool thanks.

1. Should be fine.  See 2.

2. So long as the voltage specified for the part (it's a maximum, btw) is higher than the voltage you're gonna use to power the circuit (so probably a 9V battery), then you'll be fine.  Capacitors will get physically larger as their max. voltage increases, but not by an outrageous amount.

3. "10K, 47K, 100K" are the values for the resistors: 10K = 10,000 ohms, etc.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: aron on June 17, 2013, 05:18:19 PM
Read through this:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_FAQ
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: KenInVic on July 30, 2014, 04:52:25 PM
I saw this asked but never answered so, for completeness.

All resistors are 250mW rated.  The author does explain using a 500mW resistor in one portion of the build pictorial simply because it was all they had at the time and that it would work.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: allguitar on March 15, 2015, 07:38:14 PM
4 capacitors
1 transistor
5 resisters
Need 9v batt and 1 pot
Title: what went wrong
Post by: mountianjustice on March 18, 2015, 12:51:13 AM
I tried to build the booster. It is working if passing signal is working but i wouldn't call it a boost if anything im getting less than i do plugged straight into the amp. I tried several transistors with the same results with all here is a schematic i made by looking at what ive done. shorting the base to the collector passes an unchanged signal
http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah234/mountianjustice/my%20attempt_zpszktjg6xm.png

made some magic smoke then it started working how did i blow up a 100uf 16v cap with 9vdc i mean BANG!!! it blew up

Well i got it working and with a T1806 germanium transistor to boot and it sounds great thank you for having such easy to follow instructions this is a great forum. I do have one issue im losing signal on hard strums on the bass strings it will cut out if i get too much signal into the unit. What could the issue be there? I also added a 10000uf 25v cap across the power supply to take care of a whine that was present. I've added hundreds of dollars of equip to my arsenal for nothing. I build all my effects with parts pulled from junk electronics. It takes a little longer but sometimes you find some pretty cool stuff along the way. So far I've got a Valvecaster actually quite a few ive got one with a 12ax7 one with 12au7 one with 12au6 and one with three 12ba6 tubes each with it own cathode bias knob. I built a james tone stack and ive got a few op amps I've been messing with. My biggest cost so far has been the solder. though i could use a few 500k pots. I have loads of 10k pots.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: smallbearelec on October 30, 2015, 08:21:24 AM
I just dont understand whether I need a specific transistor, or whether any will suffice, and what effect different tranistors have on the sound the pedal produces.

Please check out the breadboarded version of this project:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?board=43.0

It has a complete parts list and links to my store where you can find either individual parts or a full kit. To answer your questions: Many transistors will work, and the article gives some suggestions. The transistor type won't noticeably affect the tone; this is a volume boost, not an "effect" as such.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: digitalzombie on February 03, 2016, 04:29:06 PM
So I went through the entire thread and I had a question that was asked already but no answer was given:

What does the 47uF across the B5K do? I've seen this in a couple circuits and I don't understand its purpose. The B5K is what's adjusting the voltage from the Emitter to ground, so is the cap there simply for power smoothing? Wouldn't the circuit run pretty much exactly the same without it if lugs 2 & 1 just went to ground?
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: duck_arse on February 04, 2016, 10:15:14 AM
(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/schem.gif)

the 5k pot is one of the parts that sets the DC conditions of the transistor, along with the base bias voltage. the 47uF cap bypasses (to ground) some portion of the 5k, but only for AC, determined by the pot setting. the gain is set by the ratio of the collector resistance to the emitter resistance, and bypassing the pot lowers the emitter resistance for AC signals, without changing the DC conditions.

if lugs 1&2 went to ground, the AC gain will still vary, but the DC conditions will also change, upsetting your carefully chosen collector voltage, and producing distortion on signal peaks.

search for emitter bypass cap, you'll find plenty of info.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: bluebunny on February 04, 2016, 11:44:59 AM
if lugs 1&2 went to ground, the AC gain will still vary, but the DC conditions will also change, upsetting your carefully chosen collector voltage, and producing distortion on signal peaks.

Ah ha!

(http://www.nearlyhometime.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/penny-dropping.gif)

Thanks, duck.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: pipporan on May 26, 2017, 09:35:38 PM
i've seen this post, and i tried to draw my FIRST layout...i post here, please make me know if it's correct
i have just 2 doubts:
1) how to understand WHICH is lug 1 of the pot and which is lug 3 from the schematic?
2) the node that i've circled in the schematic, it's all connected together, isn't it?

(https://s8.postimg.org/idif08bc5/schem22.gif)

(https://s12.postimg.org/oa2t8qs4t/beginner_project_layout.gif)
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: duck_arse on May 31, 2017, 11:08:06 AM
about 1) head over to geofex, look for the secret life of pots, and forget about 1, 2 and 3, call them properly CCW and CW. the circuit connections should then become clear.

about 2) yes, all those points join inside the circle.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: pipporan on June 05, 2017, 10:35:19 PM
Quote
about 1) head over to geofex, look for the secret life of pots, and forget about 1, 2 and 3, call them properly CCW and CW. the circuit connections should then become clear.

i'll do!
it's time to get "deeper" in electronics ;D
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: bamslam69 on June 05, 2017, 11:14:30 PM
about 2) yes, all those points join inside the circle.

Give me the "dot" connection anyday.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Leopold T on July 11, 2017, 09:10:27 AM
I ordered all the parts a few weeks ago, and they're all here now, but I realised I may have made some mistakes. My 100K resistor is 5 watts. it's really big. Clearly not the best part I could have ordered. But what I'm wondering is, will it actually work if i use it in the boost pedal anyway?

Also my 47K resistor is 1 watt. Slightly bigger than the half watt resistors I have, but not as comically oversized as the 5 watt.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: duck_arse on July 11, 2017, 11:09:23 AM
100k is 100k. at least you won't cook the 5W. call it extra mojo, or cement for a harder-edged sound. and order 1/4W next time.
Title: Re: 2: The Schematic and parts list
Post by: Leopold T on July 12, 2017, 09:01:17 AM
thanks