Hello guys,
I've redone the MXR Flanger 117 following the schematic from Shredaholic.
I've adapted the schematic to mount TDA2107 (MN3007), since a found a bunch of them in a trower in my lab, and it works indeed.
My question:
does anybody know what's the specific procedure for adjusting the trimmers?
Distortion and level trimming is not an issue, but I really don't know how adjust the clock trimmer.
I've reduced the value of the C21 cap 'cause the different BBD yet, but it was formerly selected at final test so there should be an optimal clock to achieve.
Or, should anyone have one of this pedals:
could you please measure the clock freq on 4013 (U3) pins 1 or 2, with "Width" fully CCW and "Manual" both fully CW and CCW and post them here?
Thank you in advance
I have a bunch of the old SAD1024 based 117's. I grabbed 2 at random and here's what I got.
READINGS TAKEN AT THE BBD. Readings taken at the BBD. READINGS TAKEN AT THE BBD. Readings taken at the BBD.
One measured ~29KHz to ~960KHz. The other measured ~32KHz to ~965KHz. Give or take a couple of 100 Hz.
IIRC, the SAD1024 has its 2 sections hooked up in series (1024 stages). The MN3007 is a 1024 stage BBD. There shouldn't be a need to change much. Nice to hear that Shreadaholic project is confirmed working. Been wondering about that one for a while.
Let us know how things turn out!
Dave
Thanks Dave, :icon_biggrin:
I'll try your settings, I'll post results here (and some pics if I manage to enclose it in a box properly :icon_redface: )
Took a stab a this to keep the current flanger-mania going. I did not really change anything that much. Just the usual retrofit for the SAD1024 and integrated a 15V regulator with filtering caps on-board. Sounds good to me although I don't have an original at hand that I can compare with.
Based on the schematic at Shredaholic, I was able to get clock frequencies of 32KHz-996KHz using a 62pF for C21. A bit close to what oldschoolanalog have measured from his MXR flangers. But for some reason and with my limited knowledge of electronics, at the slowest speed setting, the sweep did not sound good which I cannot explain. At the start/end of the sweep, I get this slow rubbery-bounce-type of sound which I did not like at all. So I used my ear instead for cap and clock trim adjustments. For C21, I ended up with 47pF and with proper clock trim adjustment, I was able to hear a good sweep transitions at slow speed settings. I measured the clock and got frequencies from 42Khz to 1.2MHz. I am by no means an expert at this so I'm not sure if I did get an optimal clock setting. I just adjusted it based on what is good to my ear.
This build is quite picky about opamps on the oscillator. The LM358 and RC4558 did not work for me. As far as I remember, the LM358 did not produce any oscillations and for the RC4558, it did oscillate but there was no modulation at all. To this date I still don't know the reason so I guess I need more reading and studying. TL082 and LM1458 both worked but I settled on the latter. And yeah by the way, no major noise issues encountered on this one.
Big thanks to the people involved in the references I used below!
Shredaholic MXR Flanger Project page
http://www.shredaholic.com/mxrflanger.html (http://www.shredaholic.com/mxrflanger.html)
Fender3D's MXR Flanger MN3007 retrofit schematic and board
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910)
9V Electric Mistress MN3007 retrofit thread
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78270.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78270.0)
Below are some of the pics of my build:
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200721.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200722.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200724.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200727.jpg)
This project has been mentioned as a possible candidate in one of those TZF threads here so hopefully this project can grow.
Very nice, I was considering taking a stab at doing that myself soon, nice to know it works well with the retrofit.
How does it sound? From all the demos I thought it seemed it had a much deeper sweep than the Electric Mistress.
Now where's Jorge R to put it all on one PCB for us... (Or Fender 3D to find his pnp File).
"since a found a bunch of them in a trower in my lab, and it works indeed."
Was that a Robin Trower??
:icon_biggrin:
lol :)
I had my fingers drunk while writing that...
I meant "since I found a bunch of them in a drawer..." :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: shadowmaster on September 20, 2010, 11:13:41 PM
But for some reason and with my limited knowledge of electronics, at the slowest speed setting, the sweep did not sound good which I cannot explain. At the start/end of the sweep, I get this slow rubbery-bounce-type of sound which I did not like at all.
It's been a while since I've played one but I seem to recall the 117 had a metallic/fast delay sound at the bottom of the sweep that was drastic enough to wipe out the audio signal fed into it. It should get a lot more tame if you back off the regen. I'm stoked. If you get a chance post a few sound clips. I'm not a big fan of the newer Dunlop versions/EVH, so it would be cool to have one again.
Quote from: Scruffie on September 21, 2010, 09:07:56 AM
Very nice, I was considering taking a stab at doing that myself soon, nice to know it works well with the retrofit.
How does it sound? From all the demos I thought it seemed it had a much deeper sweep than the Electric Mistress.
Now where's Jorge R to put it all on one PCB for us... (Or Fender 3D to find his pnp File).
I don't know. My memory of how deep the sweep of Electric Mistress already flew out of my mind. All I can say is that the 117 is "more of a flanger" than the Electric Mistress. Hmmm... I'll try to A/B my retrofit Electric Mistress and my retrofit 117 flanger one of these days.
Quote from: Gordo on September 21, 2010, 01:37:12 PM
Quote from: shadowmaster on September 20, 2010, 11:13:41 PM
But for some reason and with my limited knowledge of electronics, at the slowest speed setting, the sweep did not sound good which I cannot explain. At the start/end of the sweep, I get this slow rubbery-bounce-type of sound which I did not like at all.
It's been a while since I've played one but I seem to recall the 117 had a metallic/fast delay sound at the bottom of the sweep that was drastic enough to wipe out the audio signal fed into it. It should get a lot more tame if you back off the regen. I'm stoked. If you get a chance post a few sound clips. I'm not a big fan of the newer Dunlop versions/EVH, so it would be cool to have one again.
I haven't played a real one so I don't know what non-musical extreme sounds should be normally present and what are not aside from those I hear on those youtube demos.
Well, my primary goal in setting the trimpot is to get that even jet flange with the slowest speed setting and every other pots maxxed-out. So far I was not disappointed. It swooshed.... I hope I can find time to record some sound clips.
Quote from: shadowmaster on September 20, 2010, 11:13:41 PM
But for some reason and with my limited knowledge of electronics, at the slowest speed setting, the sweep did not sound good which I cannot explain. At the start/end of the sweep, I get this slow rubbery-bounce-type of sound which I did not like at all.
I finally got a chance to take out some of my vintage 117's and really have a good listen. At extreme settings eg: man. control full CCW [slow clock/long delay], range full CW [max LFO] & high regen, things do get a bit noisy & "messy" [for lack of a better term] at the bottom of the sweep. Seems you got that fixed w/the cap change. If it sounds good/"right" then it is. Your ears are the ones that count...
I'm going to try 47pF on one of mine. Nice build, BTW! :icon_cool:
Quote from: Gordo on September 21, 2010, 01:37:12 PM
It's been a while since I've played one but I seem to recall the 117 had a metallic/fast delay sound at the bottom of the sweep that was drastic enough to wipe out the audio signal fed into it. It should get a lot more tame if you back off the regen.
Agreed. IMHO, it's clocked a bit too low. Back off regen, turn man. more CW [shorter delay], back off range [CCW]. The controls are
very interactive. The thing I always liked about the MXR is once you get a feel for the controls adjusting them "on the fly' becomes very intuitive/comfortable.
Purchased my first one in '78. Still works & sounds great.
Quote from: oldschoolanalog on September 22, 2010, 10:13:43 AM
...Agreed. IMHO, it's clocked a bit too low. Back off regen, turn man. more CW [shorter delay], back off range [CCW]. The controls are very interactive. The thing I always liked about the MXR is once you get a feel for the controls adjusting them "on the fly' becomes very intuitive/comfortable.
Purchased my first one in '78. Still works & sounds great.
+1
I ended up with a 15pF and 54MHz min freq. (the clock trimmer range is so huge you can achieve 28-34MHz min even with 15 pF)
Again, in '78 I was 14, and could only afford the micro flanger 'cause 117 was too much expensive... so I can't recall its sound (VH aside), maybe the micro's shortest delay line is the reason for my "treble sweep quest" when building this clone...
@shadowmaster
tried with BC548 npns and RC4558, no hearable difference so far.
Quote from: Scruffie on September 21, 2010, 09:07:56 AM
Now where's Jorge R to put it all on one PCB for us... (Or Fender 3D to find his pnp File).
My God!!!!
hello guys, someone would have the board layout that flanger thermal transfer, to give me? I would do it, but I do not know how to make the pcb from the wiring diagram!
If someone can help me be grateful!
Greetings!
Welcome!
The layout and PCB transfer image can be found here:
http://www.shredaholic.com/mxrflanger.html (http://www.shredaholic.com/mxrflanger.html)
A few things: The PCB image will have to be resized to get proper spacing; the parts list is incomplete, but the layout uses the same part numbers as the schematic (also on this page), so you can figure out the missing values; lugs 1 & 3 on the "Manual" pot will need to be reversed for proper adjustment; finally, if you choose to use BC549C transistors (as the layout suggests), they will need to be turned 180 dgrees from how they are shown on the layout. Other possible subs, like 2N3904 or 2N5088, should be oriented as shown.
Hope this helps! :)
I believe what "aeroguitar" (welcome to the forum, BTW!) and others really want is a layout w/the MN3007 retrofit on the PCB so a daughterboard is not necessary. Trying to get an SAD1024 has become a very difficult and expensive proposition nowadays. MN3007's are still cheap & abundant.
Good luck to all involved! :icon_biggrin:
Hello guys, thanks for the great reception, I feel honored to be participating in this great forum, and please excuse my English because I am Brazilian, so curl up sometimes!
I think I expressed myself wrong, I wanted the layout of the pcb in order to use MN3007, the SAD1024 is very difficult and very expensive to achieve, even being here in Brazil, and what is not seen how to use the layout posted on Shredaholic because SAD1024 has 16 pins, while the Mn3007 has 8 pins, so I'm here asking for your help, I really like this effect and would love to build it, but without having to spend a big money for a IC ! If someone can help me would be much appreciated!
thanks!
Doh! Considering that I did the MN3007 retrofit on my build, and was looking for that very kind of layout, you'd think I would have understood that :-[ Sorry! AFAIK, a PCB layout for the M117 with the retrofit hasn't been done by anyone yet; however, I did start making one based on the Shredaholic layout but never had time to complete it and just used the daughterboard. If I get some time in the near future, I'll see if I can finish it.
A daughterboard board really wouldn't take up that much space. See shadowmaster's nice work above. It would be great to have it all on one PCB though.
Fender3D posted a nice verified schematic & component layout for the MN3007 retrofit "all on one board" MXR117 (see above). No "copper side artwork" however.
Any chance of that happening Federico?
Please? ;D
I have no more the etching PCB files 'cause the prototype pictured here http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg655757#msg655757 was just that: a prototype,
I started modding and tweaking it as soon as I built it, so I redrawn pratically everything. [If you look carefully at the comp. picture you'll see there are pads for other parts not used (according to schematic), but since I was etching the board and I had to sell the pedal I wouldn't have any concern in case of missing components or misbiasing (I didn't breadborded it at the time, I did it few months ago, testing with different LFOs and dual BBDs)]. I build other units with other tweaks (such as a 3 transistors control for 4013 and just 2 knobs or a 4046 clock gen.), but all PCBs "on the fly".
There's a picture here http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910 of the schematic and comp. layout,
here you can find guts picture, you may trace it down eventually
(http://www.wizardinside.it/foto/schemi/IM000571.JPG) .
^ Thanks! Now, who is going to give this a whirl?
Hello guys, thanks for the help of all, I'll see if I can copy the daughterboard using a program like Corel Draw, or any other, but I think it will be very difficult, if not I'll try to get pass the Eagle schematic and try to to build a new layout for this purpose!
Thanks for now!
Hi everybody,
I'm trying to repair a vintage MXR Flanger with a MN3007 instead of a SAD1024.
I installed the MN3007 on a daughter board and the pedal worked fine but it stopped working when I installed the chip directly on the main board.
Now, I'm trying to troubleshoot it. I only have the clock signal at the output of the MN3007 and it seems pretty weird.
Does anybody knows what the signals should look like at the inputs and outputs of this chip?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!
Nicolas
Quote from: omnitek on August 29, 2011, 11:52:05 AM
I installed the MN3007 on a daughter board and the pedal worked fine but it stopped working when I installed the chip directly on the main board.
I don't follow what you are saying here. It worked on the daughterboard but, you decided to install the chip directly on the vintage board?? Exactly how did you accomplish that? Did you try to "hard-wire" the daughterboard? You cannot just plug-n-play the 3007 chip in place of the SAD chip. You need the supporting circuitry of the daughterboard for the 3007 to work.
Maybe some pictures too ;)
Hi,
Thank you for replying.
Yes, I installed it on the vintage board by cutting some traces and rewiring. Not an easy job to do. I also added the other small parts.
Here's some pictures:
(http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/7229/mxrflangerboardback.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/mxrflangerboardback.jpg/)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3233/mxrflangerboard.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/15/mxrflangerboard.jpg/)
Silly questions BUT.....
1) Did you account for the fact that the SAD chip ran off of V+ power (+15VDC) and the 3007 runs off of V- power (-15VDC) ?
2) Did you include ANY of the daughterboard electronics when you performed the retrofit?
3) I have read that the clocking for the 3007 is A LOT different than the SAD chip and the clock trimmer may be different. Did you account for that?
4) Have you really "dug into" the links in this thread? They have some valuable info on this retrofit.
If you figure out how to get this done, I am sure it would be appreciated if you documented the process step-by-step on this forum under a new thread. I know I would be interested! ;D
Good Luck! :icon_wink:
Hi,
I took the Fender3D's schematics to use the vintage MXR Flanger with a MN3007
Like I said, it worked fine on a daughterboard but not when I installed the parts on the mainboard.
I included all the same components.
I checked all the information in this thread but couldn't find anything about the signal waveforms (using an oscilloscope).
It would be nice if someone could draw or take a picture of the signal waveforms we should get at the inputs and outputs of the SAD1024 or MN3007 chip.
But you're right, I think i'm gonna start a new thread.
Nicolas
After looking at Fender3D's layout and schematic, I found a few "questions" that should be answered:
1) According to the layout, there is a TR2 listed at 100K however, there is NO TR2 in the schematic??
2) It should be noted that the Dist trim had it's value changed. On the original MXR schemo, it is 20K. On Fender3D's schemo, it is 100K (TR1)
I believe that Fender3D also stated that he had made some "tweaks on the fly" to get the circuit working. I think he is going to have to chime in here to clarify.
As per your pictures it seems you connected the Bias trim to ground instead of Vcc (pin 8 of the nearest op amp or 4013 pin 14)
Check 3007 if you have ~1V@ pin 4, 15V@ pin 1, Vbias (it will move trimming bias) @ pin 3
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 29, 2011, 01:54:49 PM
After looking at Fender3D's layout and schematic, I found a few "questions" that should be answered:
1) According to the layout, there is a TR2 listed at 100K however, there is NO TR2 in the schematic??
2) It should be noted that the Dist trim had it's value changed. On the original MXR schemo, it is 20K. On Fender3D's schemo, it is 100K (TR1)
I believe that Fender3D also stated that he had made some "tweaks on the fly" to get the circuit working. I think he is going to have to chime in here to clarify.
lol
1) I was in hurry with that pedal... I didn't breadboarded it, just drew the schematic and printed a PCB...
While drawing I remembered something about the MN's lesser signal gain (datasheets or forum...dunno), then I add the transistor before the level trimmer, but since I wasn't really sure about it I drew TR2 as a level trimmer to be used when you do not place the tranny on board.
2) TR1 is 100K
Quote from: Fender3D on August 29, 2011, 05:43:33 PM
As per your pictures it seems you connected the Bias trim to ground instead of Vcc (pin 8 of the nearest op amp or 4013 pin 14)
Check 3007 if you have ~1V@ pin 4, 15V@ pin 1, Vbias (it will move trimming bias) @ pin 3
Hi,
The bias trim is connected to Vcc.
The voltages are exactly like you described.
What is weird is the clock signal (looking with an oscilloscope). It is a triangle wave with varying frequency but the amplitude is also varying a lot. Is this normal?
Thanks!
Nicolas
Quote from: omnitek on August 30, 2011, 02:46:27 PM
What is weird is the clock signal (looking with an oscilloscope). It is a triangle wave with varying frequency but the amplitude is also varying a lot. Is this normal?
No.
Make sure that you are checking your clock signal with the Manual and Width pots fully CCW. If those pots are not all the way "off" then your clock will change.
If you have the pots set correctly, then you SHOULD see a SQUARE WAVE coming from the 4013 clock generator.
Be sure you are checking the clock at the correct pins (4013 Pins 1, 2 and 5 I believe) it should be a square wave.
Watch out, 2 wires twisted-paired kinda like your red and blue, will act like a small capacitor (few pF), maybe this capacitance adds to MN's CLin capacitance and run weird...
Try with 2 "squared" resistor "legs" or smaller wires running each other as away as possible
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on August 30, 2011, 02:54:38 PM
Quote from: omnitek on August 30, 2011, 02:46:27 PM
What is weird is the clock signal (looking with an oscilloscope). It is a triangle wave with varying frequency but the amplitude is also varying a lot. Is this normal?
No.
Make sure that you are checking your clock signal with the Manual and Width pots fully CCW. If those pots are not all the way "off" then your clock will change.
If you have the pots set correctly, then you SHOULD see a SQUARE WAVE coming from the 4013 clock generator.
Be sure you are checking the clock at the correct pins (4013 Pins 1, 2 and 5 I believe) it should be a square wave.
Ok. Now what I've got is almost like a square wave. But the frequency is quite low. What should be the frequency of that clock?
Thank you!
Nicolas
Quote from: omnitek on August 30, 2011, 07:14:04 PM
Ok. Now what I've got is almost like a square wave. But the frequency is quite low. What should be the frequency of that clock?
This can be adjusted to taste.
Original units (with SAD1024s) were measured by oldschoolanalog as being from 29-32KHz.
Fender3D adjusted his to around 54KHz.
It is up to you.
Yes; "season to taste". After all, you are the one that has to use, play and live with it... ;)
Quote from: oldschoolanalog on August 30, 2011, 08:28:24 PM
Yes; "season to taste". After all, you are the one that has to use, play and live with it... ;)
Congrats on #1000 ;D
I finally found out that one trace was making contact between the clock and the output of the MN3007.
I cutted that trace and now the flanger is alive again.
It sounds great but it is a bit noisy.
There's a high pitched whine especially when the regen is at the maximum.
Is there something that can be modified to reduce the noise?
Thank you!
Quote from: omnitek on September 02, 2011, 10:54:20 AM
There's a high pitched whine especially when the regen is at the maximum.
Is there something that can be modified to reduce the noise?
Set your REGEN to fully CW (full on) then adjust R48 (Level trim) until the point JUST BEFORE the "whine" starts to occur.
Whine will arise from:
1) too low clock freq. (check whether it happens with manual CCW, adjust clock trimmer for a higher freq.)
2) too much gain in regen path (adjust level trimmer to stop it)
Whether it is a clock noise you might add a "null" trimmer, connecting its wiper to 47k "pull up" resistor/Q1 Base and the other 2 leads, one to pin 7 and the other to pin 8 (you must separate these 2 pins first)
Someone just asked me about MXR Flanger bloodlines
I know the Original M-117s had no LEDs on them.
I also know that the M-117Rs do have LEDs
So, my question is.... were there ever any M-117s (no R) that had LEDs?
Greg, Check out these MXR117 photos & descriptions...
http://s175.photobucket.com/home/oldschoolanalog
Hi guys!
I ve the some problem of most of you, i ve a mxr flanger clone with a bad sad1024 probably. I ve decided after many years to' resuscitate it...i ve bought a mn3007 and i build a daughterboard following the layout founded here..
I ve seen the new Schematic to fill mn3007, but im not surehow to' link daughterboard to' mxr pcb...someone could explain it a little more simplified..?
Thank you in advance!
Quote from: slash_83 on September 07, 2011, 02:52:25 AM
Hi guys!
I ve the some problem of most of you, i ve a mxr flanger clone with a bad sad1024 probably. I ve decided after many years to' resuscitate it...i ve bought a mn3007 and i build a daughterboard following the layout founded here..
I ve seen the new Schematic to fill mn3007, but im not surehow to' link daughterboard to' mxr pcb...someone could explain it a little more simplified..?
Thank you in advance!
This is what I've done.
I removed the SAD1024 chip from the main board.
I compared the old schematics (SAD1024) with the new schematics (MN3007).
I installed the new components (MN3007, transistor, resistor) on the daughterboard.
I wired the daughterboard to the main board using the new schematics and cutted some traces on the main board when necessary.
I plugged the pedal and it worked.
After that I decided to install the MN3007 chip directly on the main board but that's a different story.
Quote from: Fender3D on August 10, 2011, 02:45:41 PM
I have no more the etching PCB files 'cause the prototype pictured here http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg655757#msg655757 was just that: a prototype,
I started modding and tweaking it as soon as I built it, so I redrawn pratically everything. [If you look carefully at the comp. picture you'll see there are pads for other parts not used (according to schematic), but since I was etching the board and I had to sell the pedal I wouldn't have any concern in case of missing components or misbiasing (I didn't breadborded it at the time, I did it few months ago, testing with different LFOs and dual BBDs)]. I build other units with other tweaks (such as a 3 transistors control for 4013 and just 2 knobs or a 4046 clock gen.), but all PCBs "on the fly".
There's a picture here http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910 of the schematic and comp. layout,
here you can find guts picture, you may trace it down eventually
(http://www.wizardinside.it/foto/schemi/IM000571.JPG) .
Hello
In this forum, I'm new, but often browse. Sorry for my English. I support a translator.
Inspired by the quoted design, I decided to recreate PCB, you do not have the documentation. On the basis of shared images and layout, I allowed myself to torture in The Gimp. Not yet verified the correctness of the connections against the schema.
If anyone would be so wonderful and try to check and correct my work, I would be grateful.
Thank you and best regards!
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-117-MN-all-1.png)
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-117-MN-layout-1.png)
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-117-MN-pcb-reverse-1.png)
You miss a track from U4's pin 1 and R21/R10/C5 and the U3's pins 7/8 junction.
Otherwise it seems ok
OK, Corrects zone and fill color. Does the TDA2107 view is the same as MN3007? Can I apply without modification, MN?
http://www.groupdiy.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=pkd2n8hlbkdkg7qmm3sq29brk6&topic=21694.msg258651#msg258651
YES :D
OK, I finished. Would Yoy check?
PS. How close to oryginal is Your version (sound)? Do You have finally version?
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-pcb-8.png)
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-pcb-8-1.png)
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-pcb-8-2.png)
Hello, merry Christmas guys
@pinio:
it seems ok to me, etching time now...
I never owned an M117, therefore I don't know how much close my "clone" is. But, the owner has those VH flanging sounds at his feet now, definitely.
Filters are the same, 1024 BBD for both... I guess we're not so far :icon_mrgreen:
Again, I trimmed the clock higher than MXR, since I found lower timing settings pretty unusable...
PS
Remember, if you mount Q1 and Tr3 you must avoid Tr2.
In my latest flangers I added ADA noise gate, all pots and jacks on PCB and LED away from footswitch.
Quote from: Fender3D on December 24, 2011, 06:48:07 PM
Hello, merry Christmas guys
@pinio:
it seems ok to me, etching time now...
I never owned an M117, therefore I don't know how much close my "clone" is. But, the owner has those VH flanging sounds at his feet now, definitely.
Filters are the same, 1024 BBD for both... I guess we're not so far :icon_mrgreen:
Again, I trimmed the clock higher than MXR, since I found lower timing settings pretty unusable...
PS
Remember, if you mount Q1 and Tr3 you must avoid Tr2.
In my latest flangers I added ADA noise gate, all pots and jacks on PCB and LED away from footswitch.
Hello there. I've made up a layout from the M117 MN3007 schematic found here on the forum.
It works! Setup 69KHz clock (as ADA MN3007 project tells :icon_cool:), fixed the TR1 value, which ought to be 20K I suppose. I setup TR1 for having the wave centered between the two threshold on the output of MN3007 (#7,#8) and TR3 to make the effect work without any feedback by regen.
Anyway I get a strange crackling noise whilst it sweeps the flanging effect. I can't get rid of it. I used 2N5088 and 2N4126 transistors and LF353N opamps. LM4562 for the LFO and the CD4013 buffered version.
I don't think it's opamps fault - those are JFET and the LM4562 has the higher slew rate @ low distortion I've ever seen on a datasheet.
I can't work it out. Hope you or somebody else will catch the prob. ;)
This is the schematic: (http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/3988/flange.th.gif) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/600/flange.gif/)
p.s. Fender3D, are you italian?
Quote from: Fix_Metal2 on January 20, 2012, 04:17:28 AM
Hello there. I've made up a layout from the M117 MN3007 schematic found here on the forum.
It works! Setup 69KHz clock (as ADA MN3007 project tells :icon_cool:),
Main difference is that ADA uses a 512 stages BBD while MXR has a 1024, thus the double clock freq. to obtain the same delay time.
Said that, the best clock is more a matter of personal taste, unless you're looking for a "perfect" clone...
Quote from: Fix_Metal2 on January 20, 2012, 04:17:28 AM
... fixed the TR1 value, which ought to be 20K I suppose.
By MN3007 datasheet:
Vgg (typ.) = VDD + 1V
Then you have 15V supply,
with a 100K + 7K5 voltage partitor you obtain ~ 1V at junction, which is what you need...
Quote from: Fix_Metal2 on January 20, 2012, 04:17:28 AM
I setup TR1 for having the wave centered between the two threshold on the output of MN3007 (#7,#8) and TR3 to make the effect work without any feedback by regen.
Anyway I get a strange crackling noise whilst it sweeps the flanging effect. I can't get rid of it. I used 2N5088 and 2N4126 transistors and LF353N opamps. LM4562 for the LFO and the CD4013 buffered version.
I don't think it's opamps fault - those are JFET and the LM4562 has the higher slew rate @ low distortion I've ever seen on a datasheet.
I can't work it out. Hope you or somebody else will catch the prob. ;)
TR1 adjusts MN's bias, I don't know what you mean by " having the wave centered between the two threshold on the output of MN3007 ", but if you watch your waveform with a scope you'll notice when and how it will distort... check this at different delay times (manual).
Again, I don't know if the crackling arises from wrong Vgg...
fix it first...
Quote from: Fix_Metal2 on January 20, 2012, 04:17:28 AM
p.s. Fender3D, are you italian?
of course... :icon_wink:
QuoteMain difference is that ADA uses a 512 stages BBD while MXR has a 1024, thus the double clock freq. to obtain the same delay time.
Said that, the best clock is more a matter of personal taste, unless you're looking for a "perfect" clone...
The ADA used the SAD1024 in a cascade configuration, didn't it? And so the MXR did.
Quote
By MN3007 datasheet:
Vgg (typ.) = VDD + 1V
Then you have 15V supply,
with a 100K + 7K5 voltage partitor you obtain ~ 1V at junction, which is what you need...
Right.
I changed the 100K over 20K because I mis-read some posts over this forum about the value. Will get back to 100K then.
QuoteTR1 adjusts MN's bias, I don't know what you mean by " having the wave centered between the two threshold on the output of MN3007 ", but if you watch your waveform with a scope you'll notice when and how it will distort... check this at different delay times (manual).
Again, I don't know if the crackling arises from wrong Vgg...
fix it first...
Input-ing 1Vpp 1KHz sin and probing @ #7 of the MN, I was getting the wave centered between max and min voltages - therefore yes, that's biasing. My bad about the explanation.
I had the same crackling problem with the 100K TR1, if I remember right. I'll start fixing it.
Quoteof course...
Anche io, scrivo normalmente sui forum diy italiani ;)
Quote from: Fix_Metal2 on January 20, 2012, 01:44:07 PM
The ADA used the SAD1024 in a cascade configuration, didn't it? And so the MXR did.
nope ADA uses parallel-multiplex configuration, it allows you to double the number of samples @ the same delay (better resolution)
Quote from: Fix_Metal2 on January 20, 2012, 01:44:07 PM
Input-ing 1Vpp 1KHz sin and probing @ #7 of the MN, I was getting the wave centered between max and min voltages - therefore yes, that's biasing. My bad about the explanation.
I had the same crackling problem with the 100K TR1, if I remember right. I'll start fixing it.
I guess 1Vpp is a too much high voltage here (it's a guitar pedal). I usually raise the input signal 'till distortion, then trim.
(yeah I have to admit it easier with my Neutrik A1...)
If you're around 200mV you can safely assume it's allright,
Again, check this adjustment @ different "manual" values 'cause it will vary with delay time. Trim for the best compromise...
Quote from: Fix_Metal2 on January 20, 2012, 01:44:07 PM
Anche io, scrivo normalmente sui forum diy italiani ;)
lol
too many "professors" over there... :icon_wink:
Quote
nope ADA uses parallel-multiplex configuration, it allows you to double the number of samples @ the same delay (better resolution)
Good to know. I made a layout of the AD/A MN3007 retrofit, but never worked. That's because I landed on the MXR - it's totally EVH, that's what I love.
Anyway I've got a fellow who made that AD/A layout work. My pcb wasn't that good because of bad uv exposure, that ought to be the problem.
Quote
I guess 1Vpp is a too much high voltage here (it's a guitar pedal). I usually raise the input signal 'till distortion, then trim.
(yeah I have to admit it easier with my Neutrik A1...)
Yea, I know, but it just didn't seem to clip or anything. There's 7,5Vpp dynamic in there!
Quote
lol
too many "professors" over there... :icon_wink:
Oh well. You're right. Actually I had subscribed myself in here years ago. Activation e-mail never breaked through my gmail account, even after several resend attemps. I then applied for this account using another e-mail address.
Well I installed shielded cables on every connection and set it right.
After taking a read on the MN3007 datasheet, I've discovered a great graph: THD vs Vbias! :icon_mrgreen:
That's saying that the lowest distortion is @ -8,1V bias (#3 ofc).
I've set clock ~69KHz and level in order to eliminate the regen feedback.
The pedal itself sounds good, but that crackling noise is still present. It is subtle, but it's there.
When I put the width at min, I get a little "speed" noise. More and more I turn the Width pot, whilst regen is not at minium, that crackling issue comes up.
Fender3D, I read that you installed the AD/A noise gate into the MXR. What's that all about? :icon_mrgreen:
Actually I start to think it's a MN problem. This one comes from a lot of 5 I bought 2 years ago from ebay - Honk Kong.
1 of that lot was WAY distorting and throwed it. 1 is in my CE2 clone, another has gone in another CE2. 1 is this one I'm using and the last has been thrown in the bin just a few days ago because was dead! No signal on output!
Whatcha think?
Can you picture the noise with a scope?
I had no similar issues.
It may be some kind of op-amp's HF auto-oscillation or mis-biasing, I used TL072 and 5532...
ADA put a noise gate in their flanger, I did the same with this... http://www.adadepot.com/adagear/gearpages/stompboxes/ADA-Flanger.htm (http://www.adadepot.com/adagear/gearpages/stompboxes/ADA-Flanger.htm)
Quote from: Fender3D on January 23, 2012, 05:20:34 AM
Can you picture the noise with a scope?
I had no similar issues.
It may be some kind of op-amp's HF auto-oscillation or mis-biasing, I used TL072 and 5532...
ADA put a noise gate in their flanger, I did the same with this... http://www.adadepot.com/adagear/gearpages/stompboxes/ADA-Flanger.htm (http://www.adadepot.com/adagear/gearpages/stompboxes/ADA-Flanger.htm)
Well I'm going to swap the two MN and see what happens first.
I've got one of those DIY osc, will check with that.
There was an error in my layout. Fixed and it works better now.
It seems like the noise it's just coming from the oscillator. I don't think the noise gate would bring any benefit because it's just a matter of proximity to the in/out cables.
I just wonder how to avoid this problem. I'm already using shielded cables for every connection, with just a star ground in the entire pedal!
Anyway, is there a better way to calibrate the level trimmer other "play-and-listen"?
I just can't make it work properly.
I found a bad value in a cap in the LFO, but nothing more than that is wrong.
I swapped the opamps with TL072 and it seems more quiet than with LF353. THD is better with 072.
It starts to crackle when the man is not in CW position. It crackles more and more when it's in CCW.
When tweaking with the distortion trimmer, I get the thing very quiet when it's at minium. The bad thing is that it doesn't flange anymore, obviously.
I used shielded cables for input/output and the speed pot, with star ground in the pedal.
I don't think it's about the 2N5088 specifically, right?
Oh, I put a 10uF NP instead of the two-series 22uF caps!
The MN is well biased and it's ok. Even swapping it with another one I have won't change a thing.
Maybe it's all because of the 4013 buffered version? Should I use an unbuffered version?
Are your shielded cable grounds hooked up at one end or both?
Look mum no shield...
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=40934&g2_serialNumber=1)
lol joking... :icon_mrgreen:
I built it with tl072 and 5532, and BCs trannies also, and no cracking or else.
It might arise from power supply or layout...
LFO should be 1458, it won't draw too much current...
4013 is BCN in my picture above, I didn't care so much, just picked it up from my drawer (...trower :icon_mrgreen: ).
PS
I must agree with Tomas on another thread here around:
do say thanks and give proper credit to author when posting on other forum please... :icon_wink:
QuoteAre your shielded cable grounds hooked up at one end or both?
OFC ground ended on one side only!
I put a 1458 into it just today, didn't try it yet however.
If that's not the prob, might be my layout, god damnit >:(
Quote from: Fender3D on February 15, 2012, 11:38:23 AM
do say thanks and give proper credit to author when posting on other forum please... :icon_wink:
As I already stated on the other forum, I just gave myself credit for doing the pcb layout (mine). YOUR schematic is included in that project as you gave it to the network.
>It starts to crackle when the man is not in CW position. It crackles more and more when it's in CCW.<
IIRC, in this design full CCW=man pot wiper at ground. Full CW=man pot wiper at 15V. If this is the case your build crackles more as the man pot approaches ground and less as you move towards 15V.
MAYBE, you are picking up the hash & trash from ground? If that is the case, what could be putting it there? Hmmm...
Have you tried a different power supply yet?
Just trying to approach this logically.
Anybody else have thoughts about this?
PS: Do you have an o'scope or access to one?
I've just have a diy osc., one of those chines stuff with the small lcd.
Will try with my other stand-alone 15V psu. Actually I've always tried the flanger with my multiple psu, which has 3 different trafos with filtering, which give me 9V, 12V and 15V through 3 different LM317. Never really had a problem from this one.
A link to my project is here (http://www.mediafire.com/?jb20bbbl0anhjfm)
I guess there's a few unrouted stuff in this version. Don't bother them, the project itself was a prototype to be verified. I verified it onto my board directly.
@Fender3D: What's that 100KA pot in your pic? :icon_mrgreen:
I ran out of 50Ks...
Quote from: oldschoolanalog on February 15, 2012, 06:52:31 PM
...
PS: Do you have an o'scope or access to one?
+1
check how clock changes, while "manualling" with width fully CCW.
My is in progress...
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/20120131829.jpg)
I just fixed some wrong value components, put absent-mindedly during the soldering.
It seems like there's no more noise in the output on the o'scope. I will check it out on tomorrow :icon_mrgreen:
I just can't get it work. This time it sometime flanges and sometime not, can't find the improper cable connection. Seemed to be the speed pot but it's not.
Glad to see your edit. ;)
Okay; >This time it sometime flanges and sometime not,...<
Try this. Take a known good 10uF NP cap and hold across the other LFO cap that's in there already. See if the sweep is now complete and works consistently.
Report back...
Quote from: oldschoolanalog on February 22, 2012, 02:07:57 PM
Glad to see your edit. ;)
;D ;D ;D
Quote
Try this. Take a known good 10uF NP cap and hold across the other LFO cap that's in there already. See if the sweep is now complete and works consistently.
Report back...
Will do. I'm going to get the voltages accross all the things too, just to help sorting this out....
Hi. I finished doing the effect. Behaves as if it was not called LFO signal. Do not respond to the speed potentiometer. I tried as U6: 1458 TL022. When the latter occurs in both echo and modulation, but no waves. U2 I put LF353. It matter? Which voltage measured, and what to check?
CP5 and CP6 on schematic are 22uF, but on PCB are 15uF. Which value is correct?
U5 I use HEF4013BP.
Quote from: pinio on April 02, 2012, 03:04:17 PM
Hi. I finished doing the effect. Behaves as if it was not called LFO signal. Do not respond to the speed potentiometer. I tried as U6: 1458 TL022. When the latter occurs in both echo and modulation, but no waves. U2 I put LF353. It matter? Which voltage measured, and what to check?
U6 may give some issues when subbed:
it may not oscillate, or
it may oscillate, but "out of center", center here will be set by R46//R48 (slightly more positive than half VCC)
I used 1458 here...
I don't understand what you mean by "When the latter occurs in both echo and modulation, but no waves"
If you have echo your clock is working...
You may check if the freq. at 4013's pin 1 or 2 change with Width fully CCW and turning Manual.
If this is the behaviour, you definitely have issue with LFO (in your picture R46 looks like 10K instead of 15K, but this might be just the picture..)
BTW check the transistors pinout...
Quote from: pinio on April 02, 2012, 03:04:17 PM
CP5 and CP6 on schematic are 22uF, but on PCB are 15uF. Which value is correct?
U5 I use HEF4013BP.
Stock MXR were 15uF. I used 22uF... they will slow down your LFO, but I like longer SWOOSHHHHHHH :icon_mrgreen:
4013 will just provide the clock signal, not LFO... If your BBD works as a delay line, then xx4013xx it's ok
Quote from: pinio on December 23, 2011, 05:06:17 PM
OK, I finished. Would Yoy check?
PS. How close to oryginal is Your version (sound)? Do You have finally version?
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-pcb-8.png)
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-pcb-8-1.png)
(http://gasbassfx.y0.pl/fotki/inne/mxr-pcb-8-2.png)
Hi.
I'm new to this forum and I intend to build this one, with your help, of course.
I have two questions before I go.
1. Chip U6 (1458 amp) have pin 3 connected to ground? Does it has to be like that?
2. RV1 pot (Regen) have pin 2 connected to C13 and pin 3 connected to C10, but in the schematics (Wizard) it seems to be the other way.
I thank you all by your hard work to the community. Cheers.
I built a working M117 flanger from the "wizard" schematics. They are verified. I would follow what is on those schematics and make adjustments as needed.
Quote from: derhel1 on March 08, 2013, 10:31:19 AM
1. Chip U6 (1458 amp) have pin 3 connected to ground? Does it has to be like that?
whoa,
I missed those pixels...
pin 3 goes to R41 upper pin.
Quote from: derhel1 on March 08, 2013, 10:31:19 AM
2. RV1 pot (Regen) have pin 2 connected to C13 and pin 3 connected to C10, but in the schematics (Wizard) it seems to be the other way.
Schem is verified (thanks Larry for your support...), just follow it.
Thank you for your kind support and advice, Fender 3D and armdnrdy. Here I go...
Hi together,
I am about to build the MXR117 clone as with the retrofix for MN3007 and wanted to thank all the guys and especially Fender3D for the work done! I ahve created for me a pcb layout from the schematic posted in this thread. For everyone who is interested in here it is:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-REMOoT2f6XI/UUMS9Stv4-I/AAAAAAAABj4/iq1QRNYQTD0/w622-h630-p-o-k/MXR117.JPG)
I am looking forward to finish my MXR117 clone!
stay tuned,
prover
Quote from: prover on March 15, 2013, 08:29:12 AM
Hi together,
I am about to build the MXR117 clone as with the retrofix for MN3007 and wanted to thank all the guys and especially Fender3D for the work done! I ahve created for me a pcb layout from the schematic posted in this thread. For everyone who is interested in here it is:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-REMOoT2f6XI/UUMS9Stv4-I/AAAAAAAABj4/iq1QRNYQTD0/w622-h630-p-o-k/MXR117.JPG)
I am looking forward to finish my MXR117 clone!
stay tuned,
prover
you have finished this FLANGER yet? please put all you have, BoM; layout wth values; modis please man!! thanks, I love FLANGERS :icon_wink:
Some words of advice.
It takes much more than connecting the dots from point A to point B to make certain circuits work properly.
I don't mean to deter anyone from trying but......There is plenty of information available online about routing circuit boards.
There are some rules to follow to achieve the best possible results.
I don't mean this in a demeaning manner but.....I would imagine that the above layout would have issues.
There are images posted above that depict the routing of the actual MXR Flanger board. Since the original IS a verified build, this can be used as a guideline.
I hope that no offence is taken.....I posted this to offer some guidance. :icon_wink:
Quote from: shadowmaster on September 20, 2010, 11:13:41 PM
Took a stab a this to keep the current flanger-mania going. I did not really change anything that much. Just the usual retrofit for the SAD1024 and integrated a 15V regulator with filtering caps on-board. Sounds good to me although I don't have an original at hand that I can compare with.
Based on the schematic at Shredaholic, I was able to get clock frequencies of 32KHz-996KHz using a 62pF for C21. A bit close to what oldschoolanalog have measured from his MXR flangers. But for some reason and with my limited knowledge of electronics, at the slowest speed setting, the sweep did not sound good which I cannot explain. At the start/end of the sweep, I get this slow rubbery-bounce-type of sound which I did not like at all. So I used my ear instead for cap and clock trim adjustments. For C21, I ended up with 47pF and with proper clock trim adjustment, I was able to hear a good sweep transitions at slow speed settings. I measured the clock and got frequencies from 42Khz to 1.2MHz. I am by no means an expert at this so I'm not sure if I did get an optimal clock setting. I just adjusted it based on what is good to my ear.
This build is quite picky about opamps on the oscillator. The LM358 and RC4558 did not work for me. As far as I remember, the LM358 did not produce any oscillations and for the RC4558, it did oscillate but there was no modulation at all. To this date I still don't know the reason so I guess I need more reading and studying. TL082 and LM1458 both worked but I settled on the latter. And yeah by the way, no major noise issues encountered on this one.
Big thanks to the people involved in the references I used below!
Shredaholic MXR Flanger Project page
http://www.shredaholic.com/mxrflanger.html (http://www.shredaholic.com/mxrflanger.html)
Fender3D's MXR Flanger MN3007 retrofit schematic and board
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910)
9V Electric Mistress MN3007 retrofit thread
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78270.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=78270.0)
Below are some of the pics of my build:
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200721.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200722.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200724.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l91/ryanogal/stompboxes/flanger/P9200727.jpg)
This project has been mentioned as a possible candidate in one of those TZF threads here so hopefully this project can grow.
Please man there is no avaliable the links ??? of all your reference you post, please you will repost??? thanks! :icon_lol:
Or someone who have it please repost IT! thanks a LOT 8)
Quote from: GodSaveMetal on October 15, 2013, 06:47:24 PM
Please man there is no avaliable the links ??? of all your reference you post, please you will repost??? thanks! :icon_lol:
Or someone who have it please repost IT! thanks a LOT 8)
The board layout and the trace image posted by derhel1 is copied from Fender3D's build and schematic. I built a working MXR MN3007 flanger (routed my own board) from Fender3D's (wizard) schematic and by using original trace images as a guide.
You can build this flanger using the derhel1 or by purchasing a board from Madbean's site.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/
He has a project called the Collosalus which is a MN3007 MXR 117m flanger
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Collosalus/docs/Collosalus.pdf
All the information to build a MN3007 based MXR flanger is contained in this thread.
Fender3D's schematic:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910
Quote from: armdnrdy on October 15, 2013, 09:14:35 PM
Quote from: GodSaveMetal on October 15, 2013, 06:47:24 PM
Please man there is no avaliable the links ??? of all your reference you post, please you will repost??? thanks! :icon_lol:
Or someone who have it please repost IT! thanks a LOT 8)
The board layout and the trace image posted by derhel1 is copied from Fender3D's build and schematic. I built a working MXR MN3007 flanger (routed my own board) from Fender3D's (wizard) schematic and by using original trace images as a guide.
You can build this flanger using the derhel1 or by purchasing a board from Madbean's site.
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/
He has a project called the Collosalus which is a MN3007 MXR 117m flanger
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Collosalus/docs/Collosalus.pdf
All the information to build a MN3007 based MXR flanger is contained in this thread.
Fender3D's schematic:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=79154.msg652910#msg652910
Thomeeques made the magic; there is no access to FENDER 3D´s schemo!!! thanks I found it!!!!!!!!!!
Hi everyone I'm new to this board but I've been building and fixing pedals, amps, etc. for 40 years..
I weas trying to build the MXR falnger on perfboard but it is a pretty complicated circuit and my eyes aren't what they used to be. I also got too small of a Bud Box so I was trying to fit the darn thing in and cut the board in half but It still didn't fit.. or work.. Long story short I moved on to another project.
So a couple of weeks ago I found the shredaholic pcb and the real MXR schematic. I made a board and had 99% of the parts including some SAD1024's.
After some serious debugging IT WORKS! It sounds so good. Big analog fatness. Ichicoo Park, Jet plane, Van Halen "Unchained" it's all there I was playing 6 sets a night 6 nights a week back then but I was using an ADA Flanger. It was deeper and crazier sounding but now I much prefer the MXR.
Quote from: GodSaveMetal on October 15, 2013, 01:11:11 PM
Quote from: prover on March 15, 2013, 08:29:12 AM
Hi together,
I am about to build the MXR117 clone as with the retrofix for MN3007 and wanted to thank all the guys and especially Fender3D for the work done! I ahve created for me a pcb layout from the schematic posted in this thread. For everyone who is interested in here it is:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-REMOoT2f6XI/UUMS9Stv4-I/AAAAAAAABj4/iq1QRNYQTD0/w622-h630-p-o-k/MXR117.JPG)
I am looking forward to finish my MXR117 clone!
stay tuned,
prover
you have finished this FLANGER yet? please put all you have, BoM; layout wth values; modis please man!! thanks, I love FLANGERS :icon_wink:
Well the flanger made some progress although I am not completeöy through, don't have so much time lately...
Here are some pictures and the actual files.
The actual design of the board:
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-UDQAHFmfd_g/UeVJJAN9EvI/AAAAAAAACH8/UWZnMV255lI/w981-h653-no/DSC_0129.JPG)
The board assemblied:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JZQxCVTy6Ug/UfYgun8Qn9I/AAAAAAAACJ4/uINYOnOxgcc/w871-h653-no/DSC_0278.jpg)
This is the chassis raw, painted and with the decal applied:
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-rxxfTPuOt1Q/UftveC6BQGI/AAAAAAAACNA/5Y825em_sJQ/w871-h653-no/DSC_0292.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--LXIXe3xw30/VCVEjxMC30I/AAAAAAAAGgM/bMQk-EMRLPk/w871-h653-no/uploadfromtaptalk1376394582169.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tiazMTxS_w4/VCVEj_Lat3I/AAAAAAAAGgQ/dy4A0nlrYow/w871-h653-no/uploadfromtaptalk1376573494108.jpg)
Great work prover!
Can't wait to see and hear the finished product ;)
can i use mn3007 for subtitute tda2107?