A new FV-1 based module is available from OCT Distribution. This module integrates an FV-1, filtering, 3.3V LDO regulator and EEPROM onto to a small 1.2"x2.1" daughter board for easy integration into your project. Module is pre-programmed with one of our program sets (mono reverb/delay currently available, more sets in development) or for production quantities it may be programmed with a custom set.
Module data sheet: http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-XXX.pdf (http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-XXX.pdf)
Reverb delay R01 set info and example schematic: http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-R01.pdf (http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-R01.pdf)
OEM pricing on OCT web site http://www.oct-distribution.com/ (http://www.oct-distribution.com/)
OEM pricing currently being honored on ALL orders (yes, DIY included)
Cogratulations! It was about time to have such FV-1 based module.
That looks really great!
I would love this in my Shaka pedal. Very cool!
Did I miss the delay time specs etc???? Reverb time?
Quote from: aron on October 01, 2009, 05:08:56 PM
Did I miss the delay time specs etc???? Reverb time?
Uh, no, I did. Total available delay time available is 1 sec (32.768KHz xtal, 32K words of delay in the FV-1)
For the R01 program set, I allow the entire memory to be used in the echo and delay programs (in the delay, it is short of a second as I use a bit at the end to have room to modulate the read pointer). Reverb time for programs 0-3 is adjustable via POT0, not a fixed time.
And, as there have been a number of questions emailed to me already, I'll address two of the commons ones here:
Cost for custom programs sets depends on a number of factors. Please describe your need (i.e. you've already developed your programs and just need them burned into the module, you need us to write them, etc.) as best you can.
For custom sets the min order is 25 units, order must ship complete.
Wow, very cool. Is the module powerful enough to give delay+reverb? That would be incredible if possible.
Quote from: aron on October 01, 2009, 07:04:21 PM
Wow, very cool. Is the module powerful enough to give delay+reverb? That would be incredible if possible.
It could but the memory would be shared by both the delay and the reverb so it would be a shorter delay time but probably fine for many things. The current program set doesn't have delay+reverb but I'll look into adding it to a future set. I expect to release a new set in the next week or so.
My memory man only has 550ms of delay. Apparently that was good enough for me for years. If it had that and a decent sounding reverb, wow.
A little above me at the moment, but very cool!!
I've been following the development of the FV1 for a while now and like the idea of a module, are the schematics of the module available on the website and are there any UK distro's for the module.
QuoteIs the module powerful enough to give delay+reverb?
I'm using a delay+reverb program from one of the demo modules on Spin's site and it works very well for me.
Chorus + reverb and/or chorus + delay are also useful combinations so please consider them as well.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 02, 2009, 04:56:18 AM
I've been following the development of the FV1 for a while now and like the idea of a module, are the schematics of the module available on the website and are there any UK distro's for the module.
Schematic not available at this time but may be in the future. Based on the one in the FV-1 datasheet.
No UK distributor yet but I have been contacted by a UK DIYer that is looking into purchasing a large batch and reselling as a favour to the UK DIY community. If he does I'll make sure to send UK DIYers to him.
Quote from: MetalGuy on October 02, 2009, 05:45:50 AM
QuoteIs the module powerful enough to give delay+reverb?
I'm using a delay+reverb program from one of the demo modules on Spin's site and it works very well for me.
Chorus + reverb and/or chorus + delay are also useful combinations so please consider them as well.
I must admit, I was not expecting the number of emails I have received about this module. Lots of requests for particular programs so going to toss this out there, here is a proposed program list for the next program set. What do you think:
Mono-in/mono-out program set G01 (name may change)
Different example schematic than R01 set, this set will be designed such that the module outputs are used directly and not mixed back in with the source signal.
| Prg # | Description | POT0 | POT1 | POT2 |
| 0 | Echo+Reverb | Reverb level | Delay | Echo level |
| 1 | Echo/Repeat+Reverb | Reverb level | Delay | Echo level |
| 2 | Chorus+Reverb | Reverb level | Rate | Chorus level |
| 3 | Flange+Reverb | Reverb level | Rate | Flange level |
| 4 | Phase Shifter+Reverb | Reverb level | Phase rate | Sweep width |
| 5 | Tremolo+Reverb | Reverb level | Rate | Tremolo level |
| 6 | Vibrato+Reverb | Reverb level | Vibrato rate | Vibrato width |
| 7 | Auto-wah+Reverb | Reverb level | Sensitivity | Level/filter Q |
NOTES: Prg 0 only has a single echo ( no repeat), delay adjustable from about 50mS to 600mS
Prg1 has a fixed feed back, trails off quickly, delay adjustable from about 50mS to 600mS
This is starting to look good now!
If you have someone here in the UK willing to buy them in then I'm interested.
Please keep us posted.
Jay.
Quote from: octfrank on October 02, 2009, 01:22:27 PM
Different example schematic than R01 set, this set will be designed such that the module outputs are used directly and not mixed back in with the source signal.
Does that mean that the dry signal is incorporated in the program? If so, it would leave the builder many more options (and be more useful as a modular building block) if the module always put out a 100% wet signal, one big reason is it is nice to keep the dry signal analog and decide how it gets mixed.
Are your multi-effect program ideas with the flange + reverb, autowah + reverb, are those meaning the signal gets flanged, then reverbed, and you'd hear flanger on the dry signal, or that the flange is applied only to the reverb signal? The latter would be much more interesting to a DIY pedalmaker (don't know if that's the target market for this, or if it is aimed more at small amp manufacturers, etc.), as digital multi-effects are kind of the opposite of DIY, and sonically less interesting than a module that does one effect at a time with more adjustable parameters.
A space echo (multi tap delay with spring reverb) type program set would be crazy! Could do it with one knob as a fancy pan between the reverb and the delay, so that they are both unity in the middle, and remain unity to one side, as the opposite effect's volume is reduced, and the other two knobs delay time and repeats.
So would a delay that had 100% wet, but short reverb on what is going into the delay, like what happens with the echo in real, large, natural spaces, you never hear the echo back as clearly defined as the original sound. Some reverbs have a pre delay knob, that's almost the same thing, except you don't get repeats.
Just what comes to mind as a pedal maker/ beginning designer, and what you have with the existing reverb/ delay set is great!
Quote from: Processaurus on October 03, 2009, 04:34:02 AM
Does that mean that the dry signal is incorporated in the program? If so, it would leave the builder many more options (and be more useful as a modular building block) if the module always put out a 100% wet signal, one big reason is it is nice to keep the dry signal analog and decide how it gets mixed.
Currently yes, this set is designed for small amps, stomp boxes used where stage space is a premium, etc. I'll make note of possibly a future set where it is 100% wet output. The current reverb/delay set is 100% wet out,
Quote from: Processaurus on October 03, 2009, 04:34:02 AM
Are your multi-effect program ideas with the flange + reverb, autowah + reverb, are those meaning the signal gets flanged, then reverbed, and you'd hear flanger on the dry signal, or that the flange is applied only to the reverb signal? The latter would be much more interesting to a DIY pedalmaker (don't know if that's the target market for this, or if it is aimed more at small amp manufacturers, etc.), as digital multi-effects are kind of the opposite of DIY, and sonically less interesting than a module that does one effect at a time with more adjustable parameters.
This set does the effect then reverb. Reversing that could be in a future program set.
Quote from: Processaurus on October 03, 2009, 04:34:02 AM
A space echo (multi tap delay with spring reverb) type program set would be crazy! Could do it with one knob as a fancy pan between the reverb and the delay, so that they are both unity in the middle, and remain unity to one side, as the opposite effect's volume is reduced, and the other two knobs delay time and repeats.
So would a delay that had 100% wet, but short reverb on what is going into the delay, like what happens with the echo in real, large, natural spaces, you never hear the echo back as clearly defined as the original sound. Some reverbs have a pre delay knob, that's almost the same thing, except you don't get repeats.
Just what comes to mind as a pedal maker/ beginning designer, and what you have with the existing reverb/ delay set is great!
Lots of good ideas here, maybe I'll do a "diystompboxes.com" set and people here will decide the programs, parameters, set order, etc.
Hi Frank,
I was wondering from a non programmer point of view (i did some pascal at college years ago) how easy would it be to start learning the code to build my own programs ? Will there be available some kind of windows development tool or will it be all machine code type of stuff ? I have a really nice idea i would like to develop with the FV1 and after checking the datasheet, the int/ext eeprom select makes this very possible, is there any way i can get hold of just the FV1 chip in the UK or should i wait for the module towing its way here.
Regards
Mick
This thing is looking cool!
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 03, 2009, 03:58:37 PM
Hi Frank,
I was wondering from a non programmer point of view (i did some pascal at college years ago) how easy would it be to start learning the code to build my own programs ? Will there be available some kind of windows development tool or will it be all machine code type of stuff ? I have a really nice idea i would like to develop with the FV1 and after checking the datasheet, the int/ext eeprom select makes this very possible, is there any way i can get hold of just the FV1 chip in the UK or should i wait for the module towing its way here.
Regards
Mick
If you've studied DSP and some assembly language then it would be possible to create your own programs. Start by d/l some of the programs from the Spin site and see if they make sense. The FV-1 and development systems are available from the European distributor, Profusion plc in Southend-on-sea. http://www.profusionplc.com/
Fantastic, I just oirdered the chip at £21.55 delivered, Looking forward to building a test module of my own. One question i hope you can answer for me Frank, what is the package/pattern for the chip for PCB making. (eg 28 pin soic, TSOP,etc)
Thanks again, this chip has really got me thinking again.
OOPS sorry just re-checked the datasheet and it does indeed say 28soic
I've been discussing with Frank the possibility of arranging a UK group buy his lovely reverb & delay module. The plan would be to get the boards delivered to me in a batch and then I'd post them on in the UK. I would do this as a kind of favour, I guess, and not as a way of making any kind of profit.
Based on a quantity of 10 boards in total, the price would be £21.85. This comes down to 15.90 to buy the board, 3.80 to ship it from the states, 1.65 to deliver signed for in UK, 0.50 for a padded envelope. No charge for the couple of bits of old cardboard box to pack it :icon_wink:
Obviously, less quantity = more expensive and vice versa.
Please leave a message here or, ideally, PM me if you want one. Or more.
Hi Frank:
Any ability for the user to program their own algorithms directly onto the board? Or, any possibility for a socketed EEPROM solution, for putting your own EEPROMs into place?
I definitely want a few of these, but am not at a position where I can commit to 25 programmed with the same code.
Thanks,
Sean Costello
Quote from: SeanCostello on October 06, 2009, 02:34:19 PM
Hi Frank:
Any ability for the user to program their own algorithms directly onto the board? Or, any possibility for a socketed EEPROM solution, for putting your own EEPROMs into place?
I definitely want a few of these, but am not at a position where I can commit to 25 programmed with the same code.
Thanks,
Sean Costello
Actually, yes. The 2-pin header on the top of the board is wired to the data and clock pins on the EEPROM. I use a hacked FV-1 development board along with SpinAsm to program test sets into the module I use for development. All the board needs in this case is power and gnd on the 16-pin header and clock and data to the 2-pin header (clock is the pin with the little "C" over it, the one next to the FV-1, the other has a "D" over it for data), you can leave all other pins un-connected (the S0,1,2 pins are pulled low through 10K resistors on the module).
Quote from: octfrank on October 06, 2009, 03:22:03 PM
I use a hacked FV-1 development board along with SpinAsm to program test sets into the module I use for development. All the board needs in this case is power and gnd on the 16-pin header and clock and data to the 2-pin header (clock is the pin with the little "C" over it, the one next to the FV-1, the other has a "D" over it for data), you can leave all other pins un-connected (the S0,1,2 pins are pulled low through 10K resistors on the module).
Excellent! Where should I pull the signals off of my FV-1 development board?
Thanks,
Sean
Is this the sort of thing that could use a cleverly wired 8-pin socket connecting to a 2-pin cable, where the socket plugs into the existing EEPROM socket on the FV-1 development board? That would be neat, as it would be a non-permanent hack to the FV-1 development board, although mine sounds a bit iffy right now (I might have damaged the FV-1 with static).
Sean Costello
OK, first all the standard disclaimers: OCT does not support or encourage users re-programming the modules, you do so at your own risk. OCT does not support or encourage users making modifications to the FV-1 development system, you do so at your own risk.
So, what I have done (and OCT does not support or encourage etc., etc.) is removed the FV-1 and EEPROM from the board, added a 16-pin header, wired the 5V power and gnd to the header and wired a 2-pin header to the serial clock and data pin where the EEPROM was on the dev system. The dev system schematic is available on the Spin web site so you can see where to tap power, ground, etc.
I did it this way so there would be no conflict between the FV-1/EEPROM on the dev board and the ones on the module because after loading a new program into the EEPROM the dev board toggles the int/ext signal to reload the program into the FV-1 which would cause the EEPROM on the dev board to drive the data line and maybe conflict with the module EEPROM.
:icon_cool:
Here's my board. There are a lot more changes than required to just program the module, I've removed the 3.3 regulator from the dev board so that I could drive the pots and selector with the 3.3V from the module, wired the pots and selector to the header (under the module) and removed all the passive components and wired the audio jacks to the header.
(http://www.oct-distribution.com/diysite/moddev.jpg)
Hi Frank,
I received my FV-1 chip today and looking forward to making up a pcb for my own module.
I have two tech quesions if thats ok to ask,
I was wondering if its possible to use a different eeprom from the 24Lxxx series for the external program chip ?
I was also wondering if the internal FV-1 chip programs are flashed to the dhip after manufacture meaning the factory could change the 8 standard programs, or are they a part of the chip die proccess ?
Quote from: markeebee on October 06, 2009, 01:28:14 PM
I've been discussing with Frank the possibility of arranging a UK group buy his lovely reverb & delay module. The plan would be to get the boards delivered to me in a batch and then I'd post them on in the UK. I would do this as a kind of favour, I guess, and not as a way of making any kind of profit.
Based on a quantity of 10 boards in total, the price would be £21.85. This comes down to 15.90 to buy the board, 3.80 to ship it from the states, 1.65 to deliver signed for in UK, 0.50 for a padded envelope. No charge for the couple of bits of old cardboard box to pack it :icon_wink:
Obviously, less quantity = more expensive and vice versa.
Please leave a message here or, ideally, PM me if you want one. Or more.
@markeebee, If you are getting some of the modules i will definately buy one. Thanks
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 07, 2009, 04:49:51 PM
I have two tech quesions if thats ok to ask,
I was wondering if its possible to use a different eeprom from the 24Lxxx series for the external program chip ?
Not really, you really do need the 24LC32A or equiv.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 07, 2009, 04:49:51 PM
I was also wondering if the internal FV-1 chip programs are flashed to the dhip after manufacture meaning the factory could change the 8 standard programs, or are they a part of the chip die proccess ?
It's part of the die process so they cannot be easily changed. Custom programs at the chip level require orders in VERY large quantities.
Just ordered 3 of these. I'll report back when I get the things up and running.
BTW, just need to reiterate what a nice chip the FV-1 is. The assembly language is simply, and you have enough power to do most of what you want to do, as well as a few limitations that have resulted in me getting very creative with the code.
Sean Costello
P.S. I have a free VST/AU plugin, ValhallaFreqEcho, available at http://www.valhalladsp.com/plugins.html, that originally started as a FV-1 algorithm. The FV-1 was able to run a frequency shifter, interpolated delay with smoothing, low and high pass filters, and soft clipping in the feedback path. Pretty nice for such a low-cost part!
The mono-in/mono-out guitar program set G01 is now released http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-G01.pdf (http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-G01.pdf)
The reverb and effect are processed in parallel and summed together for final output from the module. A number of professional players provided input on the set and I must say, listening to a real pro play the echo+reverb program sounded incredible.
Aron, you were so right to mention that set.
| Prg # | Description | POT0 | POT1 | POT2 |
| 0 | Echo+Reverb | Reverb level | Delay | Echo level |
| 1 | Echo/Repeat+Reverb | Reverb level | Delay | Echo level |
| 2 | Chorus+Reverb | Reverb level | Rate | Chorus level |
| 3 | Flange+Reverb | Reverb level | Rate | Flange level |
| 4 | Phase Shifter+Reverb | Reverb level | Phase rate | Sweep width |
| 5 | Tremolo+Reverb | Reverb level | Rate | Tremolo level |
| 6 | Vibrato+Reverb | Reverb level | Vibrato rate | Vibrato width |
| 7 | Auto-wah+Reverb | Reverb level | Sensitivity | Level/filter Q |
NOTES: Prg 0 only has a single echo ( no repeat), delay adjustable from about 50mS to 600mS
Prg1 has a fixed feed back, trails off quickly, delay adjustable from about 50mS to 600mS
Frank,
Good to see you've got it done. I've expressed interest to markeebee for buying one here in the UK.
Are there any sound samples available for this set? Even if it's just a bit of playing with the reverb only that would be good to hear.
Thanks,
Jay.
We are working on getting samples up but we have been so slammed by module inquiries we are running behind on things like that. We have almost sold out of the first run of modules, the demand was much greater than anticipated!
Quote from: octfrank on October 10, 2009, 03:32:53 PM
We are working on getting samples up but we have been so slammed by module inquiries we are running behind on things like that. We have almost sold out of the first run of modules, the demand was much greater than anticipated!
Awesome! Looks like you've got a great product--I may try to get in on the second run :)
Some samples posted on the OCT website. Need to re-do a few, volume a bit low or effect not as pronounced as it could be (never claimed to be a recording engineer :) ) but will give you a taste of the different programs. Please keep in mind that the parameters can be changed so you could make longer reverb tails, more vibrato or longer delays in the echos.
Thanks for getting some demo clips up Frank, sounds promising. One thought i had was about maybe having the effects banks independant , ie. 1. Reverb, 2. Flanger, 3 chorus etc.
I think having multiple effects isn't really going to blend well in a playing situation. as if i turn off the flanger then i lose the reverb, i would much rather have a couple of pedals and get the reverb i want then just leave that one on leaving the other effect to be turned on/off . Or maybe banks 1-4 could be single fx and banks 5 -8 could be combined fx.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 15, 2009, 12:49:05 PM
Thanks for getting some demo clips up Frank, sounds promising. One thought i had was about maybe having the effects banks independant , ie. 1. Reverb, 2. Flanger, 3 chorus etc.
I think having multiple effects isn't really going to blend well in a playing situation. as if i turn off the flanger then i lose the reverb, i would much rather have a couple of pedals and get the reverb i want then just leave that one on leaving the other effect to be turned on/off . Or maybe banks 1-4 could be single fx and banks 5 -8 could be combined fx.
(Frank walks over to the test pedal with G01 set and starts to mess with it...)
Have not tried this but it should work...
Using the example schematic from the G01 pdf, tie the 3.3V sides of pots 1 and 2 to a SPDT switch so they switch between 3.3V and gnd. When the switch is flipped to 3.3 you will get the effect based on the pot1 and pot2 settings, when flipped to gnd then you get no effect (both ends of the pot are connected to gnd so 0 volts on the control pins). Label this switch "Effect on/off"
Put a SPDT switch on the 3.3V side of pot0 to also switch between 3.3V and gnd. When switched to 3.3V you will get the reverb based on the setting of pot0, when switched to gnd you get no reverb. Label this switch "Reverb on/off"
Now, an effects only (no reverb) set as you describe above would also be of value. So people, what should this set consist of? I consulted with pro players and amp makers on the G01 set, what would the DIY people want to see in a set designed for them? Remember the module can do stereo so don't limit yourself to thinking mono only.
Maybe I am missing something obvious-if you ground the 3.3V connection of one pot, aren't you grounding all the pots?
If you just turn POT0 all the way down, would this eliminate the reverb from the output entirely?
These modules are just too cool! As for an effects only module, I like everything on the GO1 but would give up the flanger for a compression effect.
How the heck do you make any money form these? Good work!
Scott
Frank,
If I read correctly, the effects are parallel right? So just by turning down the reverb level on program 0, then you should get delay only right?
Quote from: e178453 on October 15, 2009, 03:13:52 PM
Maybe I am missing something obvious-if you ground the 3.3V connection of one pot, aren't you grounding all the pots?
This is what I intended:
(http://www.oct-distribution.com/diysite/G01mod.gif)
Quote from: e178453 on October 15, 2009, 03:13:52 PM
If you just turn POT0 all the way down, would this eliminate the reverb from the output entirely?
Basically, yes. It is used as a coefficient in the program to mix in the reverb. Using switches makes it easier to use your foot on stage to just stomp a switch and have the reverb or effect go away.
Quote from: e178453 on October 15, 2009, 03:13:52 PM
These modules are just too cool! As for an effects only module, I like everything on the GO1 but would give up the flanger for a compression effect.
How the heck do you make any money form these? Good work!
Scott
Never said we make money from them ;)
Seriously, we decided that making it more affordable to people and having a larger customer base was better than charging a lot and having only a few customers.
Quote from: aron on October 15, 2009, 04:02:26 PM
Frank,
If I read correctly, the effects are parallel right? So just by turning down the reverb level on program 0, then you should get delay only right?
Correct Aron, just suggesting the switches to make it easier to use on stage.
Ah ! I see now, The effects are running parrallel and can be switched out by grounding the 3.3v side of the pot. This opens up so many new posibilities.
Quote from: octfrank on October 15, 2009, 02:51:00 PM
Have not tried this but it should work...
Have now tried it and it works fine. Going to have to update the example app in the datasheet for G01 to include the switches. Thanks to Ice-9 for mentioning that he would like to be able to turn the effect off and keep the reverb.
Looking at the schematic, am I correct in thinking that I use the single pole 8 position rotary switch to select the effect? I'm 90% sure that this is the case, but I want to make sure. The main reason is that if I use this module, I'd be placing it in a box that I'm repurposing, and that has a limited amount of space for controls. I'd like to do two stomps (following the switching scheme introduced in the previous several post) to turn off the reverb and effects independantly, the 3 pots, and one rotary switch. Also, I think I have this straight, but I want to make sure: this module has dry signal feed thru, right? i.e., if I turn off both the effect AND the reverb, the dry signal still comes through? If not, I'll just do an analog bypass with a passive resistive mixer at the output. Any info is greatly appreciated...
Likely, this will be an early Christmas gift to myself!
Cheers,
DDC
Yes, the SP8T switch selects the program. The 74HC148 generates the 3-bit binary code that goes to the S_0, S_1 and S_2 inputs of the module. If you happen to have a binary encoder switch already you could use or other switching scheme. The one in the example schematic was just a way to make a cheap encoder with easily available parts, binary switch encoders tend to be a bit more expensive.
Basically yes, when the switches on the pots are closed the reverb or effect is no longer active and you just get dry signal.
We are about to release the R02 set, a mono-in/stereo-out reverb and delay set. Hope to have some examples on the site later today.
Very cool! That simplifies design considerations immensely! I have a crappy fender starcaster chorus that recently died, so I was thinking to gut it and reuse the housing for this board. I got the thing for like $20 on e-bay anyway, (see this thread: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=75125.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=75125.0)), so i'm not to terribly heartbroke it died. It gives me the impetus to make into something cooler! nayway, the main reason I bought the thing was that it has a very nice metal chassis, and has a real dpdt stomp bypass, 5 pots, and a nice battery compartment. Given the switching and controls configuration you have just confirmed for me, it will be pretty easy to use all the pre-existing control spots for use with the octoboard.
Controls layout of the starcaster ("o" is a pot, and "*" is the stompswitch):
_________
| |
| o o |
| o o o |
| |
| |
| * |
|_______|
I'd likely keep the three bottom pots as the three variable controls for the octoboard, keep the current stomp for turning the effect on/off, use one of the upper "pot" positions for the sp8t effect-selector rotary switch, and then put a spdt mini-toggle switch in the other upper "pot" position to turn the reverb on/off.
I see the functionality of this control scheme this way: with reverb toggle "on", this effect is always a reverb, and I can selectively activate the effect in addition to the 'verb by stomping. With the 'verb toggle "off", the pedal is essentially in "bypass" mode, and becomes like a normal effects pedal where stomping the switch "bypasses" the effect (in this case, turns the effect on or off without messing with the dry throughput). And it will be pretty easy to get this functionality given that I don't have to mess with any mixer circuitry or have any "blend" pot's taking up pedal layout space. I'm a blues harp player, so reverb is something I'll use pretty consistently, and won't ever really need to stomp "off" during a song. I'd only really ever switch it off between songs. But the effects will be nice to be able to stomp on/off during a song, regardless of whether I'm using the reverb or not. Also, I'd only really ever switch effects between songs too, or when I'm laying out, so the rotary selector switch idea works well here, saves mega layout space, and will be easy to functionalize and use.
One other thing: In an early post in this thread, you were soliciting ideas for future sets. I like the mono in/stereo out idea you mentioned, and I have another interesting idea. i was reading through all the info on the spin semi site, and it seems like there is a real potential for making a really cool set of pitch-shift/octave patches for the fv-1. Especially if one could use both channels simultaneously. ie, have one channel do pitch shift down while the other pitch-shifts up. Depending on the interval of the shifts, you'd then have chord effect (could have one for major and another for minor chords) or an up/down octave effect (one up, one down, one up, two down etc.). You could easily come up with eight useful options for this. I imagine that the tracking would be pretty good since it would all be done digitally... Just a thought anyway...
Thanks for the info!
I have found this option for a switch that selects the 8 effects or can even switch the external eeprom as well given 16 switch positions, with only 4 connections and no need for an expensive encoder or extra circuitry, will do the job very cheaply at £3 ish. I have incorperated it into my FV-1 and it is 100% working.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=655+3235#header
Thanks for this switch recommendation. I've been working with the FV-1 and couldn't find a suitable switch.
Quote from: Ice-9 on December 05, 2009, 02:50:26 PM
I have found this option for a switch that selects the 8 effects or can even switch the external eeprom as well given 16 switch positions, with only 4 connections and no need for an expensive encoder or extra circuitry, will do the job very cheaply at £3 ish. I have incorperated it into my FV-1 and it is 100% working.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=searchProducts&searchTerm=655+3235#header
Nice find! Never seen these before, looks like they can be special ordered in the states: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002 (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002)
Seems Allied is the US arm of RS, learn something new every day.
QuoteNice find! Never seen these before, looks like they can be special ordered in the states: http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002
Seems Allied is the US arm of RS, learn something new every day.
If you're ordering from Allied you can shoot straight for the right encoder and save yourself some trouble :
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9480431
Refer to the
4-Bit Binary Code Hexadecimal-16 Position table in datasheet (in the middle).
Other online stores have it in stock as well.
If anyone knows of a UK distributor or someone who's selling modules on, do let me know... I'd be keen to buy one of these... looks like a really cool module. The FV-1 is a pretty impressive DSP too and at the price mentioned for the modules from US distributors - impressive on that front too.
Ohh, nice site/forum by the way! Hopefully I'll have the chance to post a bit.
Cheers,
Calon
There is a UK distributor:
http://www.spinsemi.com/distributors.html
Sorry to dig up an old post, but do you have any plans to offer a stereo in and out program set? I would be interested in a program set that provides a fully mixed signal with "combination" effects (Reverb + Chorus, Reverb + Phaser, Reverb + Tremolo, etc...) I understand this would cut into any delay time available for a reverb + delay implementation, but that would be a fair trade-off. I like your fully mixed algorithms because it allows me to mix the two effects into the dry signal independently rather than have a combined "wet" signal that has to be mixed externally. I can't fill the minimum order for a custom program set so either have to wait for a fully stereo set to become available or live with a mono solution (I suppose I could drop the cash for a pair of modules and link the control circuitry (pots and switches) to keep them in sync... but that leaves a lot of improvement on the table compared to a true stereo implementation for effects like chorus and rotary speaker simulation)
-Matt
I've been trying to get time to do a stereo set like that, just never seems to be enough hours in the day. Also been trying to do a set with things like aliasing, bit crunching, etc.
Hey
Old thread yep, although Im pretty sure this would be the proper place to post beeing the official thread from OCT :)
So, Im rebuilding/re-housing all my pedals theese days and time has come for the reverb.
Started asking general questions in This thread (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93150.0) .
Although I was first looking mostly on other options 2people's responce and some research lead me to decide that your Module is the way to go.
From what I can tell you recomend this:
Lorlin HEX ROTARY SWITCH W/STOP
UK supplier (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6553235/?searchTerm=655+3235&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266C663D59266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D3126736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D36353520333233352677633D4E4F4E4526#header)
US supplier (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002)
To use for controlling the board.
Is that still the case? Or are there some other convenient way?
Perhaps This Rotary Switch (http://www.profusionplc.com/pro/gex/pcatdtl0?ipartno=BTDS20HP-1) Linked (http://www.profusionplc.com/pro/gex/pcatdtl0?ipartno=SPN1001-FV1) from a similar FV-1 based thing.
I seen some (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=89565.msg760024#msg760024) other (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76877.msg630385#msg630385) choices (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=76877.msg631325#msg631325) But seems far to complicated to warrent there benefits?
Also since this is quite the old thread, I do wonder if your Modules are still avalible?
@ http://www.oct-distribution.com/
And all the talk about UK distributor, does that meen its not possible for us in europe to buy from you?
(Ofcourse I understand we need to pay extra shipping, thats fint :) )
Also open questions to anyone:
Is there a PCB/Perf layout floating about for the buffers and mix circuit to ad to this board?
something like the stuff covered in the pdf's on (http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-R02.pdf) OCT's site (http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-R01.pdf)
I cant seem to find any build reports involving this module, no pictures no nothing?
Anyone got a link?
Thanks for your time :)
I did find some strangeness like:
http://www.echotapper.nl/wp/?p=151
EDIT: although Im better suited with your TL074 / Tl072 buffers and examples from the PDFs *working on a layout with that in between writing this
A place where you can buy the daughtercard on the picture below to go along with the SKRM Module from OCT.
THis looks Huge O.o is the daughterboard really needing to be that big? Seems I totally misscalculated the number of parts needed.
EDIT: I see "daughterboard" is really the wrong use of the word, what I am refering to is the board in the picture that the OCT module is connected ontop of.
(http://www.echotapper.nl/images/fv1/stompbox_size.jpg)
(http://www.echotapper.nl/images/fv1/assembled_and_connected.JPG)
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 13, 2011, 11:16:57 AM
From what I can tell you recomend this:
Lorlin HEX ROTARY SWITCH W/STOP
UK supplier (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6553235/?searchTerm=655+3235&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266C663D59266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D3126736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D36353520333233352677633D4E4F4E4526#header)
US supplier (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002)
To use for controlling the board.
Is that still the case? Or are there some other convenient way?
Use what ever method is best for you. In the example schematics with the modules I used a SP8T rotary switch and some logic because I had it at hand and it was a low cost solution. Others use the encoders and other use micros (usually also driving a 7-segment LED to display program number).
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 13, 2011, 11:16:57 AM
Also since this is quite the old thread, I do wonder if your Modules are still avalible?
@ http://www.oct-distribution.com/
Oh yeah, they are. There has been a big increase in interest in them recently. Call or email to order, we accept Paypal so you don't need to email your credit card number to us.
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 13, 2011, 11:16:57 AM
And all the talk about UK distributor, does that meen its not possible for us in europe to buy from you?
(Ofcourse I understand we need to pay extra shipping, thats fint :) )
Actually the UK distributor only handles the FV-1, not the modules so you order direct from us. Shipping is a bit expensive so you may want to see if some friends are interested and we can ship the modules to you and you can send them off to your friends. If shipped by a shipping service like FedEx or UPS then it is faster and traceable but can be very expensive. If by normal mail/post then it is cheaper and does get there but can take weeks. We have no idea why it can take so long.
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 13, 2011, 11:16:57 AM
Also open questions to anyone:
Is there a PCB/Perf layout floating about for the buffers and mix circuit to ad to this board?
something like the stuff covered in the pdf's on (http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-R02.pdf) OCT's site (http://www.oct-distribution.com/datasheets/SKRM-C8-R01.pdf)
I cant seem to find any build reports involving this module, no pictures no nothing?
Anyone got a link?
I've not seen one, maybe I need to toss one together and post it (along with the 1,000,000 other things I need to do on a daily basis :) )
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 13, 2011, 11:16:57 AM
http://www.echotapper.nl/wp/?p=151
A place where you can buy the daughtercard on the picture below to go along with the SKRM Module from OCT.
THis looks Huge O.o is the daughterboard really needing to be that big? Seems I totally misscalculated the number of parts needed.
EDIT: I see "daughterboard" is really the wrong use of the word, what I am refering to is the board in the picture that the OCT module is connected ontop of.
(http://www.echotapper.nl/images/fv1/stompbox_size.jpg)
(http://www.echotapper.nl/images/fv1/assembled_and_connected.JPG)
That is Piet's board, his board is designed to mimic particular vintage delays and repeats so he may have used external filter structures to get a particular sound. From the sound clips I have heard he does a wonderful job of emulating these vintage sounds. So for a basic effect pedal his design may be too much and you probably want to use the basic examples in the SKRM data sheets. If you want the sounds he is doing then order his kit and the programmed SKRM module from him, I do not have his program set but if lots of people in the US want to order the kit from him and the module from us to save paying import duties on the module back into the US let me know and I'll ask him if I can get the program set to sell modules based on it.
Thanks for your reply, very nice that your supporting the DIYcommunity :)
Quote from: octfrank on August 13, 2011, 03:42:26 PM
Use what ever method is best for you. In the example schematics with the modules I used a SP8T rotary switch and some logic because I had it at hand and it was a low cost solution. Others use the encoders and other use micros (usually also driving a 7-segment LED to display program number).
OK :)
I linked those:
Quote from: PereatMundusLorlin HEX ROTARY SWITCH W/STOP
UK supplier (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6553235/?searchTerm=655+3235&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D626572266C753D656E266C663D59266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D3126736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D36353520333233352677633D4E4F4E4526#header)
US supplier (http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=090SPEC&MPN=BCK1002)
Because it was mentioned previously in the thread:
Quote from: Ice-9I have found this option for a switch that selects the 8 effects or can even switch the external eeprom as well given 16 switch positions, with only 4 connections and no need for an expensive encoder or extra circuitry, will do the job very cheaply at £3 ish. I have incorperated it into my FV-1 and it is 100% working.
Quote from: octfrankNice find! Never seen these before, looks like they can be special ordered in the states:
Quote from: MetalGuyIf you're ordering from Allied you can shoot straight for the right encoder and save yourself some trouble :
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=9480431
Refer to the 4-Bit Binary Code Hexadecimal-16 Position table in datasheet (in the middle).
Just trying to figure out the right Hex-rotary switch to go along with this.
would be nice to build with the use of a single rotaryswitch to control it, no extra logic, so save on space and wireing.
Acutally Im thinking this,
would be a nice match,
given its compact size:
BTDS20HP-1
PDF Datasheet (http://www.profusionplc.com/images/data%20sheets/btds20-1(2).pdf) | (http://www.profusionplc.com/images/outlines/btds.jpg)
|
Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.
Quote from: octfrankShipping is a bit expensive so you may want to see if some friends are interested and we can ship the modules to you and you can send them off to your friends. If shipped by a shipping service like FedEx or UPS then it is faster and traceable but can be very expensive. If by normal mail/post then it is cheaper and does get there but can take weeks. We have no idea why it can take so long.
Yea shipping from the US to Europe can be funny sometimes.
Although I order LOADS of things from the US. all electronics i use in projects, all enclosures. loads of guitar gear.
( I Live in Sweden)
In my experience all the "Magic"/"Missfortune" in shipping is what happens within the US.
See I regularly (monthly)(this last year or so) order gear from
*electronics supplier([Mouser.com]because of the free shipping)
*guitar-Hardware/Parts[GFS(guitarfetish.com]
*custom handpainted/powderCoated Hammond enclosures[Pedalpartsplus.com and others])[I guess Hammond enclosures are manufactured in the US or something, Its cheaper for me
to buy handpainted and/or powdercoated custom painted enclosures from the US including shipping,
then walking down to my local supplier and buy a stock unfinished hammondBox](and been buying things from the US a few times/year for some 10years)Anyway in my experience fedex delivers in a few days only (but can be very expensive yea :/
Regular US Postal service however is -very good-
But (and I cannot stress this enough) Only when ordering from the West Coast (or central to Western side of the US)
"More or less" All the times I ordered something with Regular US-Post that originated there
I do get delivery within
10daysHowever the times I ordered things that originated from LA or south eastern part of the US
things can indeed take forever to get to me :(
Theese kind of "Deadzones" in postal service exists in europe too ( I lived in Rome for a few years, Italian
postal service is complete and utter lunacy no wonder some ebay sellers refuse to send to Italy )
More too the point, I'm thinking I'd be willing to order a single module anyway, could take forever to get
people together for a group buy.
And even if It'd take 5weeks :icon_eek: to get delivery with US Mail I feel thats preferable
then spending some 35? US$ for FedEx.
Also when ordering things for less then 1000SEK (about 200US$) I dont have to pay Import duties.
Quote from: OctfrankThat is Piet's board, his board is designed to mimic particular vintage delays and repeats so he may have used external filter structures to get a particular sound...
Ok, just got a bit surprised finding that while looking for buffer/mix boards to connect the module to.
And your right that's definatly overkill for what I'm after, thanks for the extra info thou. It certanly is
an interesting piece of kit.
Now then, Wondering what Module to Order...(and yes Im only building for my own personal use, although I keep getting
asked to build StompBoxes for other people, There is just too many fun projects
too do work on for my own use to have time for that. *working on a handful of
stompboxes aswell as an guitarAmp at the moment :icon_mrgreen: )Since Im mostly interested in building a dedicated Reverb Box, Module R01 and R02
are those of interest to me.
Really hard to decide thou..
For one Im fairly certain I'd be looking at Mono-in+Mono-out so the part thats
interesting is the different Modes.
Suppose I should take a week or so and really think over what would be best.
However, I'd love some thoughts and personal insights about the sounds avalible in
the two Modules. Could go the easy rout and just go by logic that the newest version
could have "better" sounds or have been more tuned.
yet that isnt always the case.
What would you say if asked to describe the R01 vs R02 module and its settings?
Personal View may differ thou I highly value it nonetheless!!!!!
Thanks again for taking the time to answer questions and supporting the DIY community! :)
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Acutally Im thinking this,
would be a nice match,
given its compact size:
BTDS20HP-1
PDF Datasheet (http://www.profusionplc.com/images/data%20sheets/btds20-1(2).pdf) | (http://www.profusionplc.com/images/outlines/btds.jpg)
|
Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.
That switch won't work, according to the description the version they are selling is a CTS coded one, you need a switch that is Binary Coded Decimal (BCD) like the Lorlin ones you linked to.
EDIT: actually it will work if you want to access all 16 programs but the programs won't be in the correct order, for example position 2 on the switch will select program 5. If you only want to access 8 then it would be pretty confusing.
Quote from: slacker on August 14, 2011, 11:50:50 AM
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Acutally Im thinking this,
would be a nice match,
given its compact size:
BTDS20HP-1
PDF Datasheet (http://www.profusionplc.com/images/data%20sheets/btds20-1(2).pdf) | (http://www.profusionplc.com/images/outlines/btds.jpg)
|
Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.
That switch won't work, according to the description the version they are selling is a CTS coded one, you need a switch that is Binary Coded Decimal (BCD) like the Lorlin ones you linked to.
EDIT: actually it will work if you want to access all 16 programs but the programs won't be in the correct order, for example position 2 on the switch will select program 5. If you only want to access 8 then it would be pretty confusing.
Yes and no, I didnt write to buy it from Profusion (where the PDF is linked to).
(although it may have "sounded" like that in the post previous to the one you quoted it wasn't my meening, ( thats why I linked the PDF in the last post not a link to that store))But your correct they are only selling the CTS version. However it is avalible in BCD aswell (covered in the PDF) just not from them.
To keep the programs in "correct" order, really does not matter to me at all, neither does unused poles. Yet there would be a bit irritating to have say "empty" slots inbetween programs. (the switch does come in 8-10-12-16-40 positions etc. as are most of the other offerings from say mouser.)
thanks for your input thou! Suppose I shouldnt have linked the PDF from that place.
and the full version number would be
BTDS20HP-108-R20-3 or BTDS20HP-108-R20-4 or BTDS20HP-116-R20-3 or BTDS20HP-116-R20-4
To tiered right now to sit down and read binary and pick the best one of those ^^ gonna get some coffee
[EDIT]mmm cofffee
reason I pictured that switch is I really do prefer that make of rotary switch with minimal metal square enclosure and angled connectors. It makes for much tighter cleaner install. Tend to use those when most opt for the plastic or traditional large round ones. Sometimes there is a premium on price but I prefer them to others.
there are a few BCD ones in that package from other manufacturers aswell,
there is a premium on price but I
prefer them to others.
there are a few BCD ones
in that package from other
manufacturers aswell,
DRS1604, DRS 20,
256-272, BTDS 20HS
1 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switches/6394783/) 2 (http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switches/0256272/) 3 (http://www.knitter-switch.com/) 4 (http://everglitter.com/potentionmeter/rotary_sw/btds20hs.htm) | (http://img-europe.electrocomponents.com/images/R333091-01.jpg)
| (http://www.knitter-switch.com/pdf/rotarycoded/6f.gif) |
etc etc
not sure what to pick yet. hell if I find one thats just a couple of mm smaller Ill pick that instead.
*Gonna build this into a 1590A, have done it with larger multi-pcb projects and the layout I have now would fit. However large plastic or traditional circular housed selector will not.
THis type of Selector (or better yet the variant with 90Degree angled PCBready leads) together with 9mm-Alpha pots makes for PCBsoldering all the controls to the "motherboard"(with buffers and mix control) that the FV-1 Module connects to. Perfect for tight fit dual Board layout. :)
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.
That is the most important part, the hex code. I'm a bit reluctant to suggest a particular switch as I have not had the opportunity to try a lot of them. I've found what is common or easy to get in one area may be difficult to get in another so I don't want to suggest a part that is expensive to order then discover it doesn't work well.
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Yea shipping from the US to Europe can be funny sometimes.
Although I order LOADS of things from the US. all electronics i use in projects, all enclosures. loads of guitar gear.
( I Live in Sweden)
<snip test>
Anyway in my experience fedex delivers in a few days only (but can be very expensive yea :/
Regular US Postal service however is -very good-
But (and I cannot stress this enough) Only when ordering from the West Coast (or central to Western side of the US)
"More or less" All the times I ordered something with Regular US-Post that originated there
I do get delivery within 10days
Good, we are in Los Angeles near LAX (Los Angeles International Airport)
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
However the times I ordered things that originated from LA or south eastern part of the US
things can indeed take forever to get to me :(
Uh, by LA do you mean Los Angeles or the state of Louisiana?
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Now then, Wondering what Module to Order...
(and yes Im only building for my own personal use, although I keep getting
asked to build StompBoxes for other people, There is just too many fun projects
too do work on for my own use to have time for that. *working on a handful of
stompboxes aswell as an guitarAmp at the moment :icon_mrgreen: )
Since Im mostly interested in building a dedicated Reverb Box, Module R01 and R02
are those of interest to me.
Really hard to decide thou..
For one Im fairly certain I'd be looking at Mono-in+Mono-out so the part thats
interesting is the different Modes.
Suppose I should take a week or so and really think over what would be best.
However, I'd love some thoughts and personal insights about the sounds avalible in
the two Modules. Could go the easy rout and just go by logic that the newest version
could have "better" sounds or have been more tuned.
yet that isnt always the case.
What would you say if asked to describe the R01 vs R02 module and its settings?
Personal View may differ thou I highly value it nonetheless!!!!!
Thanks again for taking the time to answer questions and supporting the DIY community! :)
Well R01 is mono-in/mono-out and R02 is mono-in/stereo-out. So I would suggest R01 for a first shot and if you want to go stereo out then R02 as the ping-pong delay sounds good in stereo as it bounces left and right. Note that the program names for the programs in each module on the OCT website link to short samples of each program so you can hear them. Since I couldn't possibly make samples of every program at every possible setting I tried to choose a representative setting so you could get the feel of the core algorithm for a program.
The buffering circuits I used to test boards/record samples are the ones in schematic form in the respective data sheets, op-amps were just TL074, nothing fancy or complex.
Quote from: octfrank on August 14, 2011, 04:59:54 PM
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Guess I have to do what MetalGuy wrote (qoted above)
and make sure to match the hex-code.
That is the most important part, the hex code. I'm a bit reluctant to suggest a particular switch as I have not had the opportunity to try a lot of them. I've found what is common or easy to get in one area may be difficult to get in another so I don't want to suggest a part that is expensive to order then discover it doesn't work well.
Yep yep I noticed some wierd hexcode switches beeing avalible in a local Swedeish electronics catalogue I havent seen anywhere else. (avalible in loads of flavoirs and code-sets)
and other Hex switches made in germany I only see in european catalogues.
So yep I understand it'd be bad to suggest an overall favorite.
Afterall figuring out what switch is needed one can read from the pdf document and matched against switches datasheets.
Quote
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Yea shipping from the US to Europe can be funny sometimes.
Although I order LOADS of things from the US. all electronics i use in projects, all enclosures. loads of guitar gear.
( I Live in Sweden)
<snip test>
Anyway in my experience fedex delivers in a few days only (but can be very expensive yea :/
Regular US Postal service however is -very good-
But (and I cannot stress this enough) Only when ordering from the West Coast (or central to Western side of the US)
"More or less" All the times I ordered something with Regular US-Post that originated there
I do get delivery within 10days
Good, we are in Los Angeles near LAX (Los Angeles International Airport)
Ah damned.. I always get that wrong ;) beeing the atlantic is on the Westcoast for me I get that mixed.
I Meant: that things originating towards the north american EASTcoast (NewYork) is real good delivery time on (less then 10days to europe).
the stuff ordered from North american WESTcoast (LosAngeles) seems to take forever to get to europe.
sorry for the mixup.
I guess stuff originated on the east-coast'ish side of north america take some insane route through Asia or take 3weeks to cross the US mainland.
Quote
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
However the times I ordered things that originated from LA or south eastern part of the US
things can indeed take forever to get to me :(
Uh, by LA do you mean Los Angeles or the state of Louisiana?
See above. :) yep I meant Los Angeles but should have written south-West not east.
Suppose that'll take 35Days instead of just 10 then :/ Oh well, can't be helped I'd feel silly spending more on Fedex-shipping then the actual part so It'll have to work.
Quote
Quote from: PereatMundus on August 14, 2011, 10:04:56 AM
Now then, Wondering what Module to Order...
(and yes Im only building for my own personal use, although I keep getting
asked to build StompBoxes for other people, There is just too many fun projects
too do work on for my own use to have time for that. *working on a handful of
stompboxes aswell as an guitarAmp at the moment :icon_mrgreen: )
Since Im mostly interested in building a dedicated Reverb Box, Module R01 and R02
are those of interest to me.
Really hard to decide thou..
For one Im fairly certain I'd be looking at Mono-in+Mono-out so the part thats
interesting is the different Modes.
Suppose I should take a week or so and really think over what would be best.
However, I'd love some thoughts and personal insights about the sounds avalible in
the two Modules. Could go the easy rout and just go by logic that the newest version
could have "better" sounds or have been more tuned.
yet that isnt always the case.
What would you say if asked to describe the R01 vs R02 module and its settings?
Personal View may differ thou I highly value it nonetheless!!!!!
Thanks again for taking the time to answer questions and supporting the DIY community! :)
Well R01 is mono-in/mono-out and R02 is mono-in/stereo-out. So I would suggest R01 for a first shot and if you want to go stereo out then R02 as the ping-pong delay sounds good in stereo as it bounces left and right. Note that the program names for the programs in each module on the OCT website link to short samples of each program so you can hear them. Since I couldn't possibly make samples of every program at every possible setting I tried to choose a representative setting so you could get the feel of the core algorithm for a program.
The buffering circuits I used to test boards/record samples are the ones in schematic form in the respective data sheets, op-amps were just TL074, nothing fancy or complex.
Ok, yep Ive been listening a bit to the samples. Though I'll go over them somewhat more in-depth before I order.
I understand I asked you a someone hard question. (one that isnt easily answered or one that possibly "shouldn't" be answered by the seller of the product in question).
Sorry bout that.
Although I think you may have missinterprited what I said about mono-in/out, or rather I didnt express it clearly. After all I am constantly aware that English is not my mother-tounge while communicating on International Forums ;)
I simply meant that If I'd choose the R02 Module, my implementation in the finished product would indeed be mono-in stereo-out.
Yet in real world-application the stereo-out would mostly be mixed to mono, in most situations.
As in a mono-in/out would mostly work just as well (for me) as mono-in/stereo-out
The other differences between the two is what's interesting to me, is pretty much all I meant.
BUT
You got a point, after all the way I build things has been to make a first-run of a project, gather Ideas through building it and after its gone through some actual use.
Then Sell that "Beta"project ;) and collect some real real decent cash(boutiq prices beeing what they are.. insanity) to make the Second Revision so much better.
So yea.. base a project of the R01 do some testing on that, then onto the "Real" ;) version I'll keep for myself.
(after all can't really decide on things like theese without doing a very immediate and real A/B comparason with the 2modules.
Thanks Oncemore for all your answers on this subject. Cant think of more questions. Time for me to really make my mind up on wether or not I'll make a choice on one of the modules or just grab both R01+R02 at once.
I'll be sending an email your way during the next week or so once I settle on a choice.
Takle care!
/Johannes Johansson
Frank,
Since this thread has been brought back from the dead... Have you made any progress on a mono-in/stereo-out version of the G01? I really like the idea of having reverb available on all the programs and hanving the wet/dry mixing handled entirely inside the FV-1 and the G01 is the only module to offer this capability, but I would also like to be able to make use of a stereo chorus/flanger since this will be incorporated into a mono-in stereo-out combo amp.
-Matt
Quote from: armstrom on August 15, 2011, 10:40:11 AM
Since this thread has been brought back from the dead... Have you made any progress on a mono-in/stereo-out version of the G01?
No, I haven't really had any requests for that set. But if there is interest in it I'll try to make time to put one together.
so far I'm the only one it seems :( I'm working on a solid state amp in the spirit of the old JC120 and I'm planning to use one of your modules to provide the effects. I can make it work with a mono in/mono out module but it would be extra spiffy to have stereo chorus like the JC120 did :)
Quote from: armstrom on August 15, 2011, 02:56:23 PM
I can make it work with a mono in/mono out module but it would be extra spiffy to have stereo chorus like the JC120 did :)
I've never played a JC120, is the chorus in phase or 90 or 180 out between the speakers?
Quote from: octfrank on August 15, 2011, 05:39:43 PM
I've never played a JC120, is the chorus in phase or 90 or 180 out between the speakers?
To be honest, I'm not sure. I've read some claims online that the speakers were wired out of phase to achieve a stereo chorus effect, but that sounds like it would be a waste of output volume due to destructive interference between the two speakers in close proximity to each other. I've posted a question on the ssguitar message board.. There's a JC120 thread going over there so I just asked what made the two effects "stereo" :) I'll let you know what I find out.
of course, the more I think about it.. the more I might just go with a dual mono setup.. I can imagine a stereo chorus or vibrato effect could be difficult to mic.
-Matt
Quote from: armstrom on August 15, 2011, 10:40:11 AM
Since this thread has been brought back from the dead...
I guess I should reply something to that remark ;)
Could say Im sorry to bump an old thread (already done that).
But do feel this thread was the correct one to pose questions in. And eventhou I talked to Frank in PMs.
I feel as he did that its best to keep discussions about the module in the thread, so that others might get some more info out of it :)
Afterall, from what I can tell this is the absolute BEST way to DIY a reverb pedal.
Couldnt hurt to get the thread up top again :)
I'm all for the community based FV-1 project, but really.
To grab this module with all the super-tricky parts done. Makes it possible for all "non-advanced" people to make a
TOP notch Reverb pedal, that from what I can tell vastly outpreforms the other DIYReverbs.
I didnt find this thing through searching on the forums, only when I asked around did I get a hint about it :)
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to imply you shouldn't have bumped this old thread. I agree with your statements :) I'm glad the thread was bumped since it reminded me to follow up on my previous query about the mono in/ stereo out module. Sorry for the confusion.
-Matt
Quote from: armstrom on August 16, 2011, 09:14:32 AM
I'm sorry, I didn't mean to imply you shouldn't have bumped this old thread. I agree with your statements :) I'm glad the thread was bumped since it reminded me to follow up on my previous query about the mono in/ stereo out module. Sorry for the confusion.
-Matt
Cool, No worries :)
I posted "just in case" really.
Hope you get your build started :)
Ok, seems I will probably go with the mono in/out module. When I asked about the "stereo" effects on the JC120 the answer I got was that the effect was only applied to one of the channels....So I don't think I'm interested in emulating that. I will just split the mono signal into the two power amps and be done with it.
-Matt