The main photo thread is getting a little crowded, so I thought it was time for a separate thread dedicated to this technique.
These are my first etched enclosures:
Loop switch
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4798172636_3e28b932f6_b.jpg)
Tone Bender mark II
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4798172446_e5a507ceea_b.jpg)
Please share yours!
dude. those look stinkin clean, man. well done for your first ones! I'm going to try etching with my next pedal. Just getting tired of the hassle and cost of decals/adhesive sticker paper. What etchant did you use? Ferric Chloride or something else?
Very clean looking. I think I'll try some ecthing on my next pedal. Good job.
Quote from: studiostud on July 16, 2010, 01:53:42 AM
dude. those look stinkin clean, man. well done for your first ones! I'm going to try etching with my next pedal. Just getting tired of the hassle and cost of decals/adhesive sticker paper. What etchant did you use? Ferric Chloride or something else?
Thanks!
About the decals - I can definitely relate. As far as results go, while etching is a bit of a hassle by itself, it can lead to better results, IMO.
Yes, I used Ferric Chloride. Masking is extremely important. I used Press and Peel for the graphics, then packaging tape for the sides of the enclosure and nail polish for covering everything else.
One more thing to point out - don't buy a polished enclosure for etching: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=85151.0 I learned it the hard way...
Those are some gorgeous pedals? Please share your technique cause I would love to get results like that! :o
Quote from: Johnny Lemonhead on July 15, 2010, 10:30:16 PM
The main photo thread is getting a little crowded, so I thought it was time for a separate thread dedicated to this technique.
Please share yours!
It's much nicer to just go to one thread to see all the new arrivals instead of clicking on 10+ links for every category.
However, I've noticed that whenever these threads start up, people tend to post in both the pictures thread and the "niche" thread - let's treat these as organizational "archives" rather then "new arrival" threads.
Quote from: JKowalski on July 16, 2010, 04:22:06 PM
Quote from: Johnny Lemonhead on July 15, 2010, 10:30:16 PM
The main photo thread is getting a little crowded, so I thought it was time for a separate thread dedicated to this technique.
Please share yours!
It's much nicer to just go to one thread to see all the new arrivals instead of clicking on 10+ links for every category.
However, I've noticed that whenever these threads start up, people tend to post in both the pictures thread and the "niche" thread - let's treat these as organizational "archives" rather then "new arrival" threads.
+1
I was afraid to mess up an enclosure by etching it directly. I etched a thin aluminum laminated panel instead for the top. I envy these beautiful box etches though.
Point taken, JKowalski.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on July 16, 2010, 02:53:03 PM
Those are some gorgeous pedals? Please share your technique cause I would love to get results like that! :o
Thanks. I followed MarkM's tutorial here http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/?g2_page=1 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/MarkMs-Gallery/album24/?g2_page=1)
with a couple of changes - instead of applying black paint and then ironing the Press n' Peel, I first ironed the PnP and then used packaging tape for the sides and nail polish for sealing the top.
My masking phase looks like this:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_JinwvawDhPc/TEGoSgu2vDI/AAAAAAAAEQQ/gHkxlvxgqYI/s1024/DSC_4657.JPG)
You want to seal it off really well and fix anything that wasn't transfered right when ironing. I used a toothpick dipped in acetone for removing excess PnP in tight spots. Take your time with this and make sure the mask is ready for etching. The etching took about 20 minutes in Ferric Chloride.
Afterwards, instead of sanding off the mask, I just pealed the tape and rubbed everything off with generous amounts of acetone.
I used free black and white vector graphics so the print would come out smooth and not pixelated.
Good luck :)
Yes thats what gives it the clean look as much as your careful work the smooth unpixelated lines.
Superb :icon_mrgreen:
going back a bit now, but just to make the beginners out there a bit more inclined to post. and to up the Pic count on this very wordy pictures thread!!.
First etch, not at all as imagined
(http://26.media.tumblr.com/swRvvrF0Fmsm6lhsEfoZgaLMo1_400.jpg)
Second etch, leaning a lot from the first.
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/swRvvrF0Fmv7quspjJEWvgYlo1_400.jpg)
Third and final to this day etch, (despite having a large quantity of Fcl to get through)
(http://27.media.tumblr.com/swRvvrF0Fqmo3awnkVoleMslo1_400.jpg)
I think if your second try could be anodized blue, purple, or maybe red it might be pretty sweet looking. Maybe some semitransparent lacquer could do what I envision. I like the layout of the uglyface too. The knobs fit the design too.
Yes, I llike those knobs as well for those boxes.
I like the small box actually.
yeah the second one has gone to another home (sold to feed the habit)
the knobs were a score from work, some ordering error landed us with 50 or so knobs for a crown d-45, written off at stocktake yay for me.
for the bottom of the lake look, i sanded them a little and chucked them in the etchant, uglyface I left them standard, but then that one is a keeper.
i etch all my pedals now....just dont rush it....'preparation is everything'...
loads of nail varnish even if it all looks well covered by toner.....no expensive pnp...just cheap gloss paper and a thick toner layer = excellent results.......... :icon_twisted:
i m not keen on paint..it chips..scratches..and then looks terrible after a few monthes of use........
but hey i like the industrial look too.....
etching is permanent..so get it right first time!.
rob.
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 19, 2010, 08:20:09 AM
etching is permanent..so get it right first time!.
Not if you've got a belt sander... :icon_evil:
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 19, 2010, 09:11:14 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 19, 2010, 08:20:09 AM
etching is permanent..so get it right first time!.
Not if you've got a belt sander... :icon_evil:
lol....some etches are pretty deep though!...probably go through it!...ha ha.. :icon_eek:
My first etch: My own Delay!
Not bad for a first one, huh? Used Slade's Multicolor etching tutorial.
(http://imgur.com/d0OYv.jpg)
my second try
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/Efectos/badbone.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/Efectos/badbone4.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/Efectos/badbone2.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/Efectos/badbone3.jpg)
same technique here,
but with paper magazine
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3361/3190763285_7fb23d9a2b.jpg?v=0)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3312/3190765579_2838c752b6.jpg?v=0)
Really good work everyone, long time no etch :) for me have to do it soon again.
I love this thread...i'll post some pics up real soon!
Passive RingMod
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4153/5015038954_2960d48cb0_b.jpg)
suite... with guts
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/5023282873_0bc687c746_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5023285617_99ef077542_b.jpg)
great an etch thread!...heres a few of mine..
dr boogie.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140610_21.21.jpg)
echo base..space base..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P030310_08.21.jpg)
wooly mammoth...zig zag bass fuzz..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/zigzagled.jpg)
rebote 2.5 delay...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P090310_18.14%5B01%5D.jpg)
Quote from: g. on September 22, 2010, 02:38:21 AM
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3361/3190763285_7fb23d9a2b.jpg?v=0)
I loved that one when you first posted it. I bought a Wasp in 1980, it came with the manual that you got the image from. Happy memories!
this one was made with pnp blue ant not with paper mag,
my experiences teaches me that the etch is better with pnp blue.
@deadastronaut your Dr. Boogie is awesome. Is the led always on or does it function like a traditional set up would? I.e. active/inactive indicator.
Quote from: liquid_2280 on September 27, 2010, 12:43:43 PM
@deadastronaut your Dr. Boogie is awesome. Is the led always on or does it function like a traditional set up would? I.e. active/inactive indicator.
cheers!...the bottom led is always on....nice for dark stages... :icon_mrgreen:
This is one of my more recent ones. I screen print with Nazdar 7200 lacquer, then etch. Lacquer thinner to clean up.
Fuzzy Hoover This is a Fuzz Face based circuit using NTE158's. Picture is of Brooks, who I'm making it for (ego boost for the lead guitarist... I couldn't help it! Besides, he's wearing one of our band's shirts... awesome!) He wanted a 'worn and grungy' look, so I used the whole canopy background... gave a really great texture!
(http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/9689/fuzzyhoover.jpg)
metalero and G. - those are some really sweet enclosures! I really dig black and silver details. I'm gonna be silverleafing a black pedal pretty soon (hopefully before x-mas). Those pedals inspire me to get off my butt and get that pedal going!
Hi. I just finished this one today :icon_biggrin:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5046/5287095382_4ebfa5ec8c_z.jpg)
Quote from: el_xero on December 23, 2010, 09:39:19 PM
Hi. I just finished this one today :icon_biggrin:
Great theme!!!! :D
Quote from: Slade on December 23, 2010, 11:52:18 PM
Quote from: el_xero on December 23, 2010, 09:39:19 PM
Hi. I just finished this one today :icon_biggrin:
Great theme!!!! :D
Haha yes, I made it for a friend and he named it that, so I came up with the theme idea.
By the way muchas gracias por tu tutorial. Me sirvió de mucho, ahora solo me falta seguir practicando :)
Saludos desde Mexico
doble ?
or
double?... :icon_wink: ::)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 27, 2010, 08:37:31 AM
doble ?
or
double?... :icon_wink: ::)
Oh MAN!!! I never caught that and I have looked at that pedal quite a few times! I really, really, really, hope that was intended. :icon_redface: :'( :o ;D
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on December 27, 2010, 08:45:35 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 27, 2010, 08:37:31 AM
doble ?
or
double?... :icon_wink: ::)
Oh MAN!!! I never caught that and I have looked at that pedal quite a few times! I really, really, really, hope that was intended. :icon_redface: :'( :o ;D
hopefully its spanish or something eh?... :icon_mrgreen:
It's spanish for double :)
Quote from: StereoKills on December 27, 2010, 08:51:17 AM
It's spanish for double :)
ahhhh...i see....so 'dragon' is 'dragon' in spanish too then...thats handy... :icon_mrgreen:
you're all right guys. Doble dragón is spanish for double dragon. :)
Quote from: el_xero on December 27, 2010, 12:56:19 PM
you're all right guys. Doble dragón is spanish for double dragon. :)
Interesting that none of the other markings are in Espanol. i.e. Kick, Punch, Life..... ::)
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on December 27, 2010, 01:01:08 PM
Quote from: el_xero on December 27, 2010, 12:56:19 PM
you're all right guys. Doble dragón is spanish for double dragon. :)
Interesting that none of the other markings are in Espanol. i.e. Kick, Punch, Life..... ::)
hmmmm.... ::)
well I just like to mix things up. I speak spanglish with friends for fun also. :) thanks for all your comments
http://onoffeffects.com/images/lone_star.jpg
Little bit of Texas for y'all
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2llymvm.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/24gre41.jpg)
That looks nice Chris!
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 27, 2010, 01:02:58 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on December 27, 2010, 01:01:08 PM
Quote from: el_xero on December 27, 2010, 12:56:19 PM
you're all right guys. Doble dragón is spanish for double dragon. :)
Interesting that none of the other markings are in Espanol. i.e. Kick, Punch, Life..... ::)
hmmmm.... ::)
Is there a complaint? You one-idiomed!!!! Go and bother Pigiboy too, every pedal he makes has 2 idioms written on it :icon_mrgreen:
BTW, here you have the character you missed "ñ" ;)
Chris, that's awesome, really inspired and detailed etch! Like it a lot.
Quote from: Slade on December 27, 2010, 08:04:19 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 27, 2010, 01:02:58 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on December 27, 2010, 01:01:08 PM
Quote from: el_xero on December 27, 2010, 12:56:19 PM
you're all right guys. Doble dragón is spanish for double dragon. :)
Interesting that none of the other markings are in Espanol. i.e. Kick, Punch, Life..... ::)
hmmmm.... ::)
Is there a complaint? You one-idiomed!!!! Go and bother Pigiboy too, every pedal he makes has 2 idioms written on it :icon_mrgreen:
BTW, here you have the character you missed "ñ" ;)
Chris, that's awesome, really inspired and detailed etch! Like it a lot.
no complaint'o senor'o slade'o.. :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
yeah nice design chris....
Here's my latest - TS808 with a few mods (mainly of the Keely variety).
WARNING: PICS BELOW NOT (OVERLY) SAFE FOR WORK
Most important mod though (IMO) is the addition of a 6-way rotary switch (labeled "NASTY") for clipping diodes - just gives you so many tonal possibilities. I went for Ge (sym), Ge (asym), Si (sym, stock), Si (Asym), LED and fully lifted.
- LED is probably my favourite - nice n' gritty, although the lifted setting gives a massive amount of boost if that's your thing.
- Ge is much quieter (as you'd expect) and you need to push the Level ("BUMP") all the way up, but both settings give a lovely rounded OD.
Quite usable tonally, def. moreso than my standard TS808... Perspex LED glowing border in lieu of a normal LED on top, just cos :biggrin: Wish I was keeping this one, but it's an Xmas gift for the guitarist in our band...
My first crack at etching an enclosure - some bits worked really well, others not so. Next time, I need to sand the enclosure more to remove the blemishes from the enclosure casting, and also mask the big flat areas with lacquer as there were a few spots where the FeCl was just starting to go through the mask... But overall, very pleased for my first effort.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_psBgEBfECuU/TRHD04wdy9I/AAAAAAAAAeA/9LK9hDUvHPw/IMG_3061.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_psBgEBfECuU/TRHEMwxqXYI/AAAAAAAAAeE/X5SuY-s-TJA/IMG_3059.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_psBgEBfECuU/TRHFAdMd1xI/AAAAAAAAAeY/Bez6It_JKj4/IMG_3065.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_psBgEBfECuU/TRHFYVXyiPI/AAAAAAAAAec/nrmnwgi9gQw/IMG_3064.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_psBgEBfECuU/TRHCaNFolcI/AAAAAAAAAdU/3x-F7JUS0t0/s576/IMG_3052.JPG)
Quote from: Slade on December 27, 2010, 08:04:19 PM
Is there a complaint? You one-idiomed!!!! BTW, here you have the character you missed "ñ" ;)
EEEEEEEEEEEEEASY there angry guy..... :icon_lol: No need to be grouchy. Remember that these comments are coming from someone who has had nothing but misery when trying to etch enclosures! :'(
Quote from: Slade on December 27, 2010, 08:04:19 PM
Is there a complaint? You one-idiomed!!!!
Como mi profesor de español dijo, el monolingüismo es una enfermedad.
Quote from: Valoosj on December 28, 2010, 09:17:55 AM
Quote from: Slade on December 27, 2010, 08:04:19 PM
Is there a complaint? You one-idiomed!!!!
Como mi profesor de español dijo, el monolingüismo es una enfermedad.
Précisément.
Quote from: Slade on December 28, 2010, 10:14:18 AM
Quote from: Valoosj on December 28, 2010, 09:17:55 AM
Quote from: Slade on December 27, 2010, 08:04:19 PM
Is there a complaint? You one-idiomed!!!!
Como mi profesor de español dijo, el monolingüismo es una enfermedad.
Précisément.
Qué fanfarronería :icon_lol: vamos hacer una competición? Sin diccionario, claro :icon_lol:
Quote from: Valoosj on December 28, 2010, 10:38:18 AM
Quote from: Slade on December 28, 2010, 10:14:18 AM
Quote from: Valoosj on December 28, 2010, 09:17:55 AM
Quote from: Slade on December 27, 2010, 08:04:19 PM
Is there a complaint? You one-idiomed!!!!
Como mi profesor de español dijo, el monolingüismo es una enfermedad.
Précisément.
Qué fanfarronería :icon_lol: vamos hacer una competición? Sin diccionario, claro :icon_lol:
Sorry... didn't mean to offend. No need to get upset. Just thought it was a shame that you went through all of the trouble and
POSSIBLY mis-spelled a word. I know I would be :o :icon_mad: :icon_evil: if that happened to me.
I seriously doubt that Slade is serious about being offended or anything. We all know his spelling isn't always that good either :icon_lol:
As this is a forum, don't take things too serious, it's very difficult to show your emotions in writing.
Hahaha, easy, Govmnt_Lacky...Of course I'm just kidding, I would never write like that seriously, and would never point and laugh to you because you only know one language... Maybe I'm still using too few smileys... Now seriously... One language??!?!!?! :D ;D :icon_mrgreen: :icon_lol:
Okay!!! Let's stop this OT. Here's my latest, the Neverdrive (an overdrive made to get a tone close to the song Neverland from Maryllion):
(http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/7863/64642072.jpg)
(http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9988/86110759.jpg)
(http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/8302/71714231.jpg)
Audio Demo: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/Neverdrive.ogg
Ciao!
Fernando.-
marillion?
or
mary lion ?.....only joking guys.... :icon_wink:
nice one slade...(the master etcher) :icon_mrgreen:
edit:cant open ogg files...!!!!
my favorite grit-box!
(http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm119/musikerochan/REijimaigo/SAM_0034.jpg)
Quote from: Mugshot on December 29, 2010, 07:58:40 PM
my favorite grit-box!
That looks very cool. Did you built it? What are the controls?
Quote from: Slade on December 30, 2010, 08:56:56 AM
Quote from: Mugshot on December 29, 2010, 07:58:40 PM
my favorite grit-box!
That looks very cool. Did you built it? What are the controls?
the usual suspects: level, drive, bass and presence control ;) really piercing with presence control all the way up. sounds good through a cold solid state marshall :icon_mrgreen:
done this for a mate who wanted a plaque for his wall...came out nice and deep..!!!!...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/vod1.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120111_16.22.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P030211_14.29.JPG)
^^^ very nice and neat!
do you guys apply any sort or clear coat when you're going for the "brushed aluminum" look or would that degrade the overall affect?
i never do, i dont like chips etc...but i like the industrial look anyway... 8)
hey guys...i haven' etched any enclosure yet....i am thinking about it just some simple lettering but i am worried about were can i find the paper and stuff i need....i am basicly looking for an easy and cheap process...i hope that someone can help... ;D
Quote from: tasos on February 04, 2011, 10:56:38 AM
hey guys...i haven' etched any enclosure yet....i am thinking about it just some simple lettering but i am worried about were can i find the paper and stuff i need....i am basicly looking for an easy and cheap process...i hope that someone can help... ;D
I haven't tried etching yet either, but the process is explained in detail in slade's turorial:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/%5BTutorial%5D%20Making%20a%20Multicolor%20Etching.pdf (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/%5BTutorial%5D%20Making%20a%20Multicolor%20Etching.pdf)
Cheap?: I don't think the materials are very expensive.
Easy?: It looks pretty complicated to me.. but maybe that's just because slade's tutorial is so detailed (which is a good thing!) ;D
the link doesn't response...does it to you?
Slightly cheated with this one. Etched a faceplate instead of the enclosure. Does it still qualify?
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs038.snc6/166864_10150132722336140_627701139_8417017_2397892_n.jpg)
Jimi
Quote from: Jimi W on February 04, 2011, 05:35:02 PM
Does it still qualify?
Jimi
i think so.... :icon_wink:
Quote from: tasos on February 04, 2011, 04:29:57 PM
the link doesn't response...does it to you?
The link is working for me.
built at last...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P060211_00.34.JPG)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P040211_14.28.JPG)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Time%20Machine/TMA1.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Time%20Machine/TMA2.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Time%20Machine/TMA3.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Time%20Machine/TMA4.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Time%20Machine/TMA5.jpg)
Showoff.
Just kidding! Stunning, as always, Rick! :icon_cool:
looking good rick!...nice!. 8)
heres one for the pulsewah...just have to finish the @#$%ing layout now!.. :icon_rolleyes:
it'll spur me on to finish it quicker though!.. :icon_mrgreen:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P080311_16.05%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P080311_14.02%5B01%5D.jpg)
where's the etching tutorial again? :D
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 08, 2011, 11:29:21 AM
heres one for the pulsewah...just have to finish the @#$%ing layout now!.. :icon_rolleyes:
it'll spur me on to finish it quicker though!.. :icon_mrgreen:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P080311_16.05%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P080311_14.02%5B01%5D.jpg)
Love the video on this! Will you share the circuit?
hi steve..
no!.... :icon_mrgreen:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.0
its there ok...enjoy!.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 09, 2011, 12:41:38 PM
hi steve..
no!.... :icon_mrgreen:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.0
its there ok...enjoy!.. :icon_wink:
Very cool and I can tell we're going to get into some Firesign Theatre together or, at the very least, Monty Python.
:icon_mrgreen:
i just dug out an old mxr phase 45 pcb i built ages ago...but it never worked...i changed the trannies and yay! it works..sounds really sweet....
so it deserves a sweet box too...
its going to have an orange 'sun' led as the rate in the middle of the sun...and an on/off led too....
i looked for chrome chicken head knob, but they are too pricey..shame it would look nice on it...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P190411_13.40.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 19, 2011, 09:54:36 AM
i looked for chrome chicken head knob, but they are too pricey..shame it would look nice on it...
well i think it is worth it! ;)
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Guitar-Amp-1-4-Rotary-Switch-Chickenhead-Knobs-SCK-/290537784085?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item43a566c315 (http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Guitar-Amp-1-4-Rotary-Switch-Chickenhead-Knobs-SCK-/290537784085?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item43a566c315)
cheers tasos, but ive seen proper metal chrome looking ones...they are nice...really classy looking.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOG-CHICKEN-HEAD-KNOB-CHROME-SET-SCREW-BRASS-INSERT-/370448418913?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item5640724861
£5.00 for one knob just seems to pricey.... :icon_rolleyes:
Finally this is my etched delay finished !
(http://smart.noiz.gr/images/listings/dromilious-1302816974-d_pic.jpg) (http://smart.noiz.gr/images/listings/dromilious-1302817005-d_pic.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 19, 2011, 11:25:36 AM
cheers tasos, but ive seen proper metal chrome looking ones...they are nice...really classy looking.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOG-CHICKEN-HEAD-KNOB-CHROME-SET-SCREW-BRASS-INSERT-/370448418913?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item5640724861
£5.00 for one knob just seems to pricey.... :icon_rolleyes:
http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p2248_Chickenhead-chrome.html
If you don't use this supplier, I can always order one for you the next time I need stuff and then send it to you.
Too bad I just came back from London, if I had known I would have stopped by with one since I have a few here that I want to put on my amp ;D
@yorick, thanks for the offer man, very kind of you!..
i didnt realize musikding did them, much better price too....ive never ordered from them, but i may do soon. thanks again man.
cheers, rob.
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 21, 2011, 05:50:10 AM
@yorick, thanks for the offer man, very kind of you!..
i didnt realize musikding did them, much better price too....ive never ordered from them, but i may do soon. thanks again man.
cheers, rob.
I ordered a few things from them recently, be sure to consider their photo resist PCB stock at 2 euro for 100*160 mm, and Hammond 125A's at 18 euro :-)
finished my phase 45.....no chrome knob yet!..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220411_15.19.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220411_15.16%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220411_15.17%5B01%5D.jpg)
I think the black chicken head is very tasty. A chrome knob might be overkill, but eh - to each his own :)
@jordan , yeah you may be right there....i tried the cream one...but black looks better!. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 22, 2011, 11:42:53 AM
finished my phase 45.....no chrome knob yet!..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220411_15.19.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220411_15.16%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220411_15.17%5B01%5D.jpg)
The black knob looks classy, especially with the box lighting. Tasty, Rob.... err... the pedal, not you!
not me?.. :'(
:icon_mrgreen:
cheers man...yeah i'm pleased with it...very subtle phaser.. :icon_cool:
Rebote delay, w/ 'boost' pot in the output buffer. :icon_biggrin:
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh19/siore/GAS/Image0560.jpg)
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh19/siore/GAS/Image0559.jpg)
(http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh19/siore/GAS/Image0557.jpg)
nice one siore....
came out nice... :icon_cool:
deadastronaut, that's one hot phaser you've got there. Glad you put a large gold LED. For me, pictures never do justice to the actual subject, but I'm sure that it looks hyper-awesome in person.
You should try the chrome knob, though. If it's a good one, I think it's gonna look better - you know, just the Sun in the middle of a grey sky...
cheers egasimus, ...yeah its great in real life...
http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry?feature=mhum#p/u/0/FtnhO44kP4Q
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 19, 2011, 11:25:36 AM
ive seen proper metal chrome looking ones...they are nice...really classy looking.
£5.00 for one knob just seems to pricey.... :icon_rolleyes:
Looks great Rob, can'y beat a chicken head.
Here's another chrome knob source- only a buck and a half!
http://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/amp_parts/P-K300S (http://www.amplifiedparts.com/products/amp_parts/P-K300S)
cheers guitarmaggedon, looks like i'll have to get some with my next big order....thanks man. :icon_wink:
A Tremor In The Force - Tap Tempo Tremolo
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/229158_10150233190406140_627701139_9110271_7620521_n.jpg)
Crap quality photo but I'm really pleased with the etch itself. Went really well. Used a much more concentrated etchant than usual after reading that insanekane uses a concentrated etchant and I LOVE his etches.
Jimi
^^^^
That's a beautiful etch Jimi! Really really nice graphic work too, love the waveforms and the musical notations.
Quote from: Jimi W on April 29, 2011, 02:38:10 PM
Crap quality photo but I'm really pleased with the etch itself. Went really well. Used a much more concentrated etchant than usual after reading that insanekane uses a concentrated etchant and I LOVE his etches.
Jimi
Nice etch dude. Is this via Slades method? Any variations in technique? I always seem to get those little 'micro holes' in the toner and cant manage to get anything as clean as what youve got there....
Cheers dude!
Yep, all down to Slade's tutorial! I've read a few others but pretty much follow Slade's.
One thing that does seem to make a difference is etchant strength. My current FeCl is probably 1.5 - 2 times the recommended strength. The etch happens a lot quicker and the toner seems to hold up for the short time even though the etchant is stronger. I also go a bit over the top with nail varnish and paint over a lot of the large toner masked areas. Takes a few more minutes in prep but it guarantees no little spots appearing through the toner. I also use packaging tape and not masking tape for the sides of the enclosures and paint over the join between the tape and the enclosure with nail varnish to stop the etchant seeping under the tape.
To be honest each time I do an etch I still find it as exciting and amazing as the first time and I've probably done about 15 now! I still expect the worst each time and I'm completely blown away when it works. I really do LOVE etching.
Jimi
yeah thats really cool jimi...nice etch...
i'm the same i love etching , and am also blown away by the results too:...
much better than painting, and waterslides etc...no chipping and all that...great!.. :icon_wink:
Here's my latest..
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tDGCn8t7B2U/TcgzK5irHiI/AAAAAAAAB3c/A4VSyV3juew/s1600/Rust2-2.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BW8Zu-XeQLY/TcgzLB5wiWI/AAAAAAAAB3g/2yiC0pgjBkw/s1600/Rust2-3.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ydv-Znwh_h0/TcgzLlK2WUI/AAAAAAAAB3k/IHl1pN0mDck/s1600/Rust2-4.jpg)
Quote from: nicofx on May 10, 2011, 12:21:03 PM
Here's my latest..
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tDGCn8t7B2U/TcgzK5irHiI/AAAAAAAAB3c/A4VSyV3juew/s1600/Rust2-2.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BW8Zu-XeQLY/TcgzLB5wiWI/AAAAAAAAB3g/2yiC0pgjBkw/s1600/Rust2-3.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ydv-Znwh_h0/TcgzLlK2WUI/AAAAAAAAB3k/IHl1pN0mDck/s1600/Rust2-4.jpg)
A beauty...
Nicofx, that looks really incredible! How do you achieve that effect.
echo base i did a while back, but never painted the etch...now i have..and clear coat too...
i know...the led bezel :icon_redface:...i'll sort it. :icon_wink:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120511_10.23.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120511_10.22.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120511_10.22%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120511_10.22%5B02%5D.jpg)
The text under the knobs looks a bit unsightly to me. Use Helvetica instead of Arial, p'raps :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: Otherwise, great build.
Could've been Gagarin-commemorative, though. There would probably be at least one good B&W photo of him that would look good on that stompbox.
Although whenever I see a stompbox with somebody's face on it (it's usually Hendrix, of course), I can't help but wonder - won't some people consider, well, stomping on sb's picture an insult? Outside the Arab world, that is.
yeah it looks offensive too... :icon_wink:
yeah its always hendrix.... ::)
i'd stamp on his face and gagarin's...... :icon_mrgreen:
All those nice etches!
A few questions :
How do you manage to keep those unetched surfaces that clean?
Is it just lots of nail varnish (or paint) to seal the toner?
How do you get that clean brushed alu look like on the 'tremor in the force' and the 'space base' pedal?
I guess it's sand & sand & sand...
Thanks,
Jim
hi jim, yep and yep... :icon_mrgreen:
i always put nail varnish on any areas not to be etched...just in case of pitting...
as for sanding, yep just one direction...coarse then less coarse...then 1200....and sand sand sand....doesnt take long really...
Here's a picture of my etches so far:
(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/7984/img7695x.jpg)
very nice mike.....nice muff too... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
well...this is a green russian muff....and my first etching! ;D
i haven't decided about the knobs yet!any suggestions? :icon_rolleyes:
(http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/6920/1000149.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/860/1000149.jpg/)
(http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/6708/1000148n.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/829/1000148n.jpg/)
forgot to mention...this box measures 2.2cm high!i had to bend the legs of the 3pdt so it can fit in there! :icon_lol:
[yep!copy paste from the pictures thread!i need some help with the knobs here! ;D]
Couple of my latest:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Obsession%20II%20A.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Obsession%20II/OBII%20Front.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Cvi/CVi03.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Cvi/CVi02.jpg)
a sneak preview.... :D
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/cruc1.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 21, 2011, 05:24:19 AM
a sneak preview.... :D
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/cruc1.jpg)
Alright Rob, that's the "Ooooh!" pic. When do we see the "Aaaah!" pic?
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/th_smiley_emoticons_ozboss_gitarre3.gif)
ok heres the mock up of the 'DUAL CRUCIFIER'..first time i used magazine paper for etching...it works really really well...no more 'special paper' for me...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220511_11.31%5B01%5D.jpg)
had to bug rick and galego about how to wire this bugger up..(thanks guys :-*). its a double dr boogie.. for hi/low gain stuff. in a sideways 1590bb .didnt fancy calling it dual, dual rectifier... :icon_wink:
going to try 'no bezel' led's too 2x 3mm for channel swithching, 5mm on/off , and a 3mm in the cross for decoration only...i love a pretty light!... :icon_mrgreen:
should be finished this week.... :icon_cool: \m/ \m/ ...after a few more orbits around the earth.... :icon_mrgreen:
@rick, beautuful builds as always...love that gold n silver.. :icon_cool:
@tasos, stick with the chick!.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 22, 2011, 06:49:28 AM
ok heres the mock up of the 'DUAL CRUCIFIER'..first time i used magazine paper for etching...it works really really well...no more 'special paper' for me...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P220511_11.31%5B01%5D.jpg)
Ahhhhhh!
almost ahhhhh.....a bit more swearing and stuff to go yet!.. :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 22, 2011, 06:15:36 PM
almost ahhhhh.....a bit more swearing and stuff to go yet!.. :icon_mrgreen:
Awwwwww! Now imagine me playing the world's tiniest violin... :icon_mrgreen:
@Rob
How did you cover the apparent massive areas that were not etched?
Did you use massive amounts of toner? Or did you use enamel or paint?
I just wonder how you managed to get all of the etch to line up if you didn't put on the resist "all in one shot"
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 22, 2011, 08:17:14 PM
@Rob
How did you cover the apparent massive areas that were not etched?
Did you use massive amounts of toner? Or did you use enamel or paint?
I just wonder how you managed to get all of the etch to line up if you didn't put on the resist "all in one shot"
hi lacky, it is in one shot really....
i just use a laser toner image (on magazine paper).(best quality print).and used nail varnish for the edges, and top of the sides...and taped the sides with masking tape, then plastic tape over that...
just to stop the plastic tape leaving a nasty residue behind...this stops the sides being etched...sometimes i do cover larger areas with nail varnish too..but the magazine method, seems really great
at coverage...
finally, heres my .'DUAL CRUCIFIER' (double dr boogie) etched graphics, then clear coated to stop oxidization (keep it shiny) ive been wanting to build this for a long time, just never got round to it.
i ripped my old dr boogie apart and added 2 volumes/2 gains etc..nice high and low gain settings..and squeezed it all into a 1590bb.pheww!...@#$%ing awesome pedal much much better now!.and more versatile live. :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
youtube demo soon!. :icon_wink:
special thanks to rick (frequency central) and (galego).. for their help with the wiring diagram..coz i'm a dumbass!.. :icon_redface:...cheers guys.!. :-*
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P240511_12.53.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P240511_12.54.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P240511_12.55%5B02%5D.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 22, 2011, 08:33:43 PM
hi lacky, it is in one shot really....
i just use a laser toner image (on magazine paper).(best quality print).and used nail varnish for the edges, and top of the sides...and taped the sides with masking tape, then plastic tape over that...
just to stop the plastic tape leaving a nasty residue behind...this stops the sides being etched...sometimes i do cover larger areas with nail varnish too..but the magazine method, seems really great
at coverage...
Just seems to me that you would be using an HUGE amount of toner to cover those vast blank areas :icon_eek:
Does that increase your transfer time?
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on May 24, 2011, 08:46:28 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 22, 2011, 08:33:43 PM
hi lacky, it is in one shot really....
i just use a laser toner image (on magazine paper).(best quality print).and used nail varnish for the edges, and top of the sides...and taped the sides with masking tape, then plastic tape over that...
just to stop the plastic tape leaving a nasty residue behind...this stops the sides being etched...sometimes i do cover larger areas with nail varnish too..but the magazine method, seems really great
at coverage...
Just seems to me that you would be using an HUGE amount of toner to cover those vast blank areas :icon_eek:
Does that increase your transfer time?
my secretary (wife) does all my printing, she works for the house of lords?(another government lacky lol) and they have lovely new laser printers....so toner usage isnt any concern..
plus its nice to get something back for my taxes.. :icon_wink:
transfer time?...just as normal...in fact the magazine paper is the best method ive tried...and ive tried a few.. :icon_rolleyes: great coverage!..no residue either!..
no 'special paper/expensive pnp blue etc....and its recycling...lol..not that i give a monkeys about that!.. :icon_mrgreen:
These etchings are terrific. Anybody know someone who provides this service for a per-enclosure fee?
My latest reverse etch..
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eXV7IUb0HsY/TeyQTd_g9LI/AAAAAAAAB4U/rWu4ZLxA0B4/s1600/RiverPerch3.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P5dnAqXJUdw/TeyQTxJNEfI/AAAAAAAAB4Y/kKSoLV8vvMc/s1600/RiverPerch4.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A7BtZDaDhaw/TeyQUaxZOTI/AAAAAAAAB4c/SyYxDIUhz-I/s1600/RiverPerch5.jpg)
@niklas..beautiful....love the fish eye.. :icon_cool:
i havent tried a reverse etch yet...but will soon...
that doesnt look very deep...was it a pain to sand/paint?..
@niklas
Could you elaborate on how the reverse etch is accomplished?
I just do not see how you can paint the surface, then sand the "higher" edges without damaging the paint on the "lower" portions ??? ???
you have to use a flat sanding block so it only sands the raised parts...i think slade does it by having the sandpaper flat on a desk, and rubs the box over it...
thats my 2p...
the fish does look very shallow as an etch though!...the band around the edge will keep it from digging in... :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 06, 2011, 10:13:14 AM
you have to use a flat sanding block so it only sands the raised parts...i think slade does it by having the sandpaper flat on a desk, and rubs the box over it...
thats my 2p...
the fish does look very shallow as an etch though!...the band around the edge will keep it from digging in... :icon_wink:
Thanks Rob.. ;D
I am still working out my magazine transfer woes :'( Gonna give it another thry this week ;D
It just looks to me that a reverse etch would be MUCH easier than a standard etch. Less area to cover with resist and less masking.
yeah less toner for sure...but you can always use less toner by just toning the out line of the important bits, and use nail varnish for the big areas... :icon_wink:
love that fish.....nice.. :icon_cool:
i had to build another phase 45.....my mate begged me for the other one!.. :icon_rolleyes:
etched/clearcoated..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P060611_15.26.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P060611_15.21.jpg)
Thanks :)
It's actually a very deep etch, and then several layers of spray paint. So when you sand it the paint and the etch almost line up.
And yeah, you have to use a sanding block. Also make shure your enclosure is sanded completely flat before applying the transfer.
Preparation is everything :)
Quote from: nicofx on June 06, 2011, 10:47:18 AM
Thanks :)
Preparation is everything :)
indeed it is...
i see now..the paint has raised to meet the etch...cool.
@deadastronaut That Phaser is exquisit 8)
thanks man.. yeah i love an led...or 2... :icon_mrgreen:
(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/783/1000179w.jpg)
hey guys..
i just finished my etching...
i liked the black color that stayed on the letters....
could i keep it and spray lacquer over it or this would just crack it and oxidize etc etc?
thanks..
hi tasos...looking good...
dab some black paint in there....then sand flat(block)..one direction...then clearcoat it!..
it'll bring out the etch nice..more defined!...
i like that it is not one color....there is some dark and some bright grey...
would i have a problem this way?cracking the clear coat or something?
ok...itl go a little darker anyway with clear...
just spray light coats at first...make sure its really clean though......get a toothbrush in there....
use a block to sand it as well...get rid of those diagonal scratches... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 17, 2011, 05:12:40 PM
...make sure its really clean though......get a toothbrush in there....
Depending on what you use to clean, you may end up removing the oxidation that you like.
I know that acetone will discolor/remove the oxidation.
Mike
i will paint it black then...i don't want trouble! ;D
and yeah definitely going to sand this properly! ;)
This is a Distortion i made.
(http://i55.tinypic.com/s6ipa1.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/otdxdf.jpg)
(http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo252/mikemaddux/FunctionalArtPiece1SHO-1.jpg)
First pedal in a long time.....had to take some time off for life.. :D
This is the first pedal in my "Functional Art" series of pedals. It incorporates an old well known optical illusion picture.
Can you tell me what you see in this etched graphic? :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
Quote from: mikemaddux on June 21, 2011, 10:00:09 PM
Can you tell me what you see in this etched graphic? :icon_question: :icon_question: :icon_question:
I see 'em both, but it took a while to see the older woman (seen it before but it was a while ago).
@dromilous...i really like the fish!.... (theres been a few fish lately...dunno why)..cool.
@mike..i can only see the old bag....? does this mean i have Attention deficit dis........................ ::) :P :icon_cool: :icon_eek: :icon_sad:. :icon_mrgreen:
edit :ohhh ohhh ohh....i see it now....young bird turning her head..with a furry coat!.... :icon_cool:
My favorite etch so far
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=45487&g2_serialNumber=1)
That looks awesome, glops, fantastic.
@dromilious, the backside fish came out great, I like it a lot.
^ glops. came out brilliant...nice style...man!... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
i like the 'antique' style of the blank space too...nice
thanks slade.i used your etching guide.I need more practice for deeper etches.
Thanks guys! I love this one. I love reverse etching and using the ugliness as an aesthetic.
The fish and the fuzzrite are very nice!
some etches i made today .enjoy!
(http://i53.tinypic.com/10hvccj.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/29xyxyc.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2ztm7g9.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/28%20three.jpg)
you are years ahead man! How do you make these clear etches?
^ cool etches rick!.. nice n clean...
heres my 'unfinished' lightwah...(waiting on a spdt on/on...) :icon_rolleyes:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120711_16.52.jpg)
Not An etched enclosure, but an etched nameplate
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt5/davidgiandiletti/DSCN1959.jpg)
^ nice. :icon_cool:
Quote from: DavidGiandiletti on July 15, 2011, 01:29:31 AM
Not An etched enclosure, but an etched nameplate
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt5/davidgiandiletti/DSCN1959.jpg)
How did you get the pitting on the enclosure finish?
Quote from: ugly_guitar_guy on July 16, 2011, 03:44:36 AM
Quote from: DavidGiandiletti on July 15, 2011, 01:29:31 AM
Not An etched enclosure, but an etched nameplate
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt5/davidgiandiletti/DSCN1959.jpg)
How did you get the pitting on the enclosure finish?
It's a silver vain powder coat
Quote from: DavidGiandiletti on July 15, 2011, 01:29:31 AM
Not An etched enclosure, but an etched nameplate
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt5/davidgiandiletti/DSCN1959.jpg)
What is the nameplate made out of? Aluminum?
Quote from: A.Gillies on July 16, 2011, 10:04:43 AM
What is the nameplate made out of? Aluminum?
It is, I'm lucky enough to work for the family metal business and have access to a shear.
^very lucky, can you make enclosures?... :icon_cool:
edit: just thought i'd post the finished pedal.. ::)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140711_12.32.jpg)
Quote from: DavidGiandiletti on July 18, 2011, 11:20:55 PM
Quote from: A.Gillies on July 16, 2011, 10:04:43 AM
What is the nameplate made out of? Aluminum?
It is, I'm lucky enough to work for the family metal business and have access to a shear.
Thanks! You're pretty lucky!
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 19, 2011, 05:10:39 AM
^very lucky, can you make enclosures?... :icon_cool:
I CAN but it's a huge pain and I really have no time.
btw that is one of the cleanest etches I've seen.
Tube Screamer and Phase 90 clone
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/CreamerFront.jpg) (http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/CreamerGuts.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/RayGunFront.jpg) (http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/RayGunGuts-1.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/MOMC/MC3.jpg)
nice work guys: :icon_cool:
my first reverse etch...sort of...
.thinking of using as an AB switcher...led eyes etc...maybe.not sure yet!... ::)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P260711_13.50.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P260711_13.53%5B01%5D.jpg)
Here is a silicon bender (http://i53.tinypic.com/mbk9ix.jpg)
From back (http://i53.tinypic.com/zmje5v.jpg)
My new solution is so strong.For the first image it took only 2 minutes to etch it.The enclosure was so hot that i could barely touch it.For the pcbs it takes only some seconds !!!
Quote from: dromilious on August 05, 2011, 12:43:33 PM
My new solution is so strong.For the first image it took only 2 minutes to etch it.The enclosure was so hot that i could barely touch it.For the pcbs it takes only some seconds !!!
You lunatic! :icon_mrgreen:
Don't you have any negative side effects?
My second etch (1590D)
(http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd480/KepFX/Pedals/file-12.jpg)
A few of my latest etches....
(http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/6230/screwdrivers.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/109/screwdrivers.jpg/)
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1879/univibe.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/6/univibe.jpg/)
(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/1459/dverb.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/dverb.jpg/)
So nice etches.I like the brushes you have used.Nice work!
yeah cool work guys...very nice.
@KEPPY.weve got to have a video demo of the phaze II... :icon_wink:
Quote from: dromilious on August 05, 2011, 12:43:33 PM
From back (http://i53.tinypic.com/zmje5v.jpg)
My new solution is so strong.For the first image it took only 2 minutes to etch it.The enclosure was so hot that i could barely touch it.For the pcbs it takes only some seconds !!!
I am getting an interesting optical illusion here - at first glance, it looked like the nearest ear hole was an eye and the darkening on the inner edge of the ear looked like the other eye in profile. The rat eyes looked like a mouth. The jacket looked like an ear hanging down like a dog's ear. Entertaining. Actually, the back cover art is sometimes the best.
Here's the etch I did for a booster I am building:
(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/3585/cat3boosterraw.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/651/cat3boosterraw.jpg/)
The enclosure started as part of a powdercoated dent-n-scratch assortment that I bought here. It turned out I got 8 green and 2 blue, so I am sanding down some of the greens and using them bare.
I think it's my best etch yet. The top etch was perfect, but I made the same mistake I made last time. I didn't give enough time for the enamel to dry. The enclosure heated up, the enamel melted, and all the edges were pitted. I had to reshape the edges of the enclosure to remove the pitting. I think it looks pretty good.
The etch on the front edge was very difficult to transfer. It took me 2 separate redesigns, and 8 tries at transferring before I got it right. It came out perfect, though. I haven't even sanded it yet, just wiped with acetone.
The paint scheme is going to be an assortment of blues to go with the hurricane theme.
Mike
great looking etch mike.....nice design too.... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
i keep wondering what a shaded design would come out like, i always do bold stuff....but shading would be cool...if it didn't mess it up.. ::)
Thanks.
Here's a detail shot of the front etch.
(http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/396/cat3boosterraw2.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/37/cat3boosterraw2.jpg/)
I can't wait to get this thing built. :)
Mike
Am I the only one working on etched enclosures this week? Heh...! :D
Here's the paint for my Category 3 Booster:
(http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1782/cat3boosterpaint2.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/cat3boosterpaint2.jpg/) (http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8055/cat3boosterpaint1.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/cat3boosterpaint1.jpg/)
I did all the detail work first, and sprayed the big area last. The main fill area is Rustoleum spray enamel, and the rest is Testors enamel that I mixed into varying shades, and then dabbed on with a brush. There actually is a pattern to the order of the border colors, but you'll never figure it out. $5 donation to DIYSB in the name of the first person who does. :P
I tape, paint, and then hold my enclosures overnight at probably about 150 degrees. That fully cures the enamel, and levels out any brush strokes.
I just finished sanding off the spray from the high spots. I laid the spray paint on sort of thick (intentionally), and the sanding left a bit of scuffing. I am rebaking it now, hoping it will semi-liquify and smooth back out. If it doesn't, I hope the gloss enamel I plan on spraying will melt it enough to hide the scuff marks.
Oh yeah, and I'm still tidying up the layout. I hope to etch the board and get it built this weekend. Hopefully I'll have a finished pedal by Monday, and I think I am going to try my hand at a video demo.
I'll be posting the project files once I have it built and verified for anyone who wants to build one for their own use. I also have an extra set of enclosure transfers, and I'll make an extra set of PCB transfers. I will gladly send those to one of the more experienced etchers here, if one of you wants to build one (no offense to beginner etchers, this was very difficult to etch and paint).
More to come!
Mike
Great looking work .Mike!
Quote from: .Mike on August 24, 2011, 08:06:44 PM
Am I the only one working on etched enclosures this week? Heh...! :D
Here's the paint for my Category 3 Booster:
(http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1782/cat3boosterpaint2.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/cat3boosterpaint2.jpg/) (http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8055/cat3boosterpaint1.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/cat3boosterpaint1.jpg/)
I did all the detail work first, and sprayed the big area last. The main fill area is Rustoleum spray enamel, and the rest is Testors enamel that I mixed into varying shades, and then dabbed on with a brush. There actually is a pattern to the order of the border colors, but you'll never figure it out. $5 donation to DIYSB in the name of the first person who does. :P
I tape, paint, and then hold my enclosures overnight at probably about 150 degrees. That fully cures the enamel, and levels out any brush strokes.
I just finished sanding off the spray from the high spots. I laid the spray paint on sort of thick (intentionally), and the sanding left a bit of scuffing. I am rebaking it now, hoping it will semi-liquify and smooth back out. If it doesn't, I hope the gloss enamel I plan on spraying will melt it enough to hide the scuff marks.
Oh yeah, and I'm still tidying up the layout. I hope to etch the board and get it built this weekend. Hopefully I'll have a finished pedal by Monday, and I think I am going to try my hand at a video demo.
I'll be posting the project files once I have it built and verified for anyone who wants to build one for their own use. I also have an extra set of enclosure transfers, and I'll make an extra set of PCB transfers. I will gladly send those to one of the more experienced etchers here, if one of you wants to build one (no offense to beginner etchers, this was very difficult to etch and paint).
More to come!
Mike
That's gonna be great! I love the tiles on the edges.
looking good mike, very nice...
is it morse code round the edge?....do i win?.... ;)
edit: crap. posted in the wrong thread!
back to it.... wear goggles! i had a twitch for like three years in one eye....
Today I sanded, toner transferred, etched, drilled, sanded, toner transferred, etched, drilled, sanded, toner transferred, etched, drilled, sanded, toner transferred, etched, drilled...............
I'll @#$%in filthy, I need a shower......
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Faaaaaaaaaaaaaaack%21.jpg)
And here's last week's cheesecake:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Gemini/G1.jpg)
lazy sod!... ;D looks great , its worth the hard work though eh!... ;) :icon_cool:
Hey Rick, your boxes look a lot rougher than mine do when you're done etching.
What grit do you sand to, and are you sanding by hand, or are you using a power sander?
OT: Is that a terrazzo floor? I've been thinking about trying to duplicate that on a pedal.
Mike
This deserves to be big here. :icon_biggrin: Nice one Mike!
(http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8055/cat3boosterpaint1.jpg)
Thanks! :D
I used buffing compound and elbow grease, and smoothed all the minor scuffing out of the big blue area. It looks smooth now.
I'm working on finishing the layout right now, and hope to etch and build this evening. :)
Mike
@mike. is it morse code then?...
Hehe... no, sorry. It's not Morse Code. There is no message. I did generate the sizes of the tiles using a random number generator, since my attempts at trying to make them random didn't look random at all.
I did the same for the paint, but it also didn't look random. I found a pattern that ended up looking more random than I was able to fake. It was out of necessity-- I didn't want to clean my brush after every tile... heh! You'll never guess, so I'll explain it when I'm done. :P
Mike
Quote from: .Mike on August 28, 2011, 02:01:34 PM
Hey Rick, your boxes look a lot rougher than mine do when you're done etching.
What grit do you sand to, and are you sanding by hand, or are you using a power sander?
OT: Is that a terrazzo floor? I've been thinking about trying to duplicate that on a pedal.
Mike
I'm sanding by hand. I'm aiming for 'flat as quick as possible' and not 'shine', so yeah I use coarse paper. That last batch of four was done with 100 grit. The Gemini was done with 100 then 320. I'm not really bothered about them being all see-your-face-in-it, I just want it flat enough to take a transfer well. I also sand again post-etching, to remove any last traces of toner which the wire wool doesn't catch. Coarse has it's own charm.
Your etch is beautiful .Mike!
(http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/6095/13102011761.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/809/13102011761.jpg/)
(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/678/13102011763.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/13102011763.jpg/)
Here are two little boxes waiting to house an always on buffer circuithopefully I'll have them finished during the weekend...
Wow .Mike.
Quote from: Greenmachine on October 14, 2011, 05:41:40 PM
Wow .Mike.
Heh... thanks. Unfortunately, that has been set aside for a bit due to some homeowner-related events not of my choosing. It's 95% done, though-- just have to clearcoat it, and work out a couple last bugs. Finished pics soon, I hope. :)
Mike
Hi guys. It's generally my first post here since I started to read diystbxs (that's gonna be a year and a half or even two), so I just put some of my etches here.
(http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/8905/fire2a.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/713/fire2a.jpg/)
(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/9766/revolver4.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/revolver4.jpg/)
(http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/4052/bb4e.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/847/bb4e.jpg/)
(http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/9392/hydra1ik.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/97/hydra1ik.jpg/)
(http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/2504/angel1q.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/angel1q.jpg/)
(http://www.crazytrain.pl/img/groozzerr5.jpg)
Just wanna to say that I'm very impressed by fabulous pieces of art presented here.
Greetings from Poland :)
Darrex
@crazytrain, cool builds man...i really like that revolver one... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Thanks. That's all-in-one overdrive/distortion based on Fulldrive, but with range from Vox AC/Fender to Mesa-like hi-gain.
Today i Built this Booster.Due to the cold weather my etchant didnt work so fast.I guess i have to keep it warm next time.I used a lamp to heat it a bit .Enjoy!(http://i41.tinypic.com/282qlhy.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 19, 2011, 05:10:39 AM
^very lucky, can you make enclosures?... :icon_cool:
edit: just thought i'd post the finished pedal.. ::)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140711_12.32.jpg)
Great job here - I'm super impressed.
How's the pedal in operation ?
Pales in comparison to work done here, but this is my first attempt at an enclosure etch,
I just got into making PCBs and now tried the enclosure
(http://i1178.photobucket.com/albums/x374/LaceSensor1/New%201590bs/IMG_3442.jpg)
@lace, thats really good for a first etch..., you should've seen my first one... :icon_redface: ;)...
posting this in both threads:
sorry it's just a pic off my phone. already posted in the mail.
the enclosure was done by Mark O'Shea and fitted with my optical tremolo guts (:
(http://www.dazatronyx.com/custom-shop/cowboytrem.jpg)
Quote from: darron on November 21, 2011, 04:34:15 AM
posting this in both threads:
sorry it's just a pic off my phone. already posted in the mail.
the enclosure was done by Mark O'Shea and fitted with my optical tremolo guts (:
(http://www.dazatronyx.com/custom-shop/cowboytrem.jpg)
Now, off to Alice Springs for some shots (pun intended) of that with some sand in the background (better make it black and white photos, the red sand wouldn't seem fitting).
Like it a lot.
Edit: Spelling, seems like seams wasn't the word I was looking for.
Nice story on that box. Is enyone survived? ;) I hope no birds were harmed during... ;)
Here's my latest (not finished yet) box:
(http://crazytrain.pl/galeria/var/resizes/Efekty-gitarowe-CrazyTrain/CrazyTrain-Moonlight/ml1.jpg?m=1321880314)
(http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR7kyQmcdJJQQcSIVqOzMRZAOm6dnny4PPMilFaTQrxxGWo1q7_xMkug0fb)
Your tremolo really reminds me this pic! ;D
Quote from: Perrow on November 21, 2011, 04:45:03 AM
Quote from: darron on November 21, 2011, 04:34:15 AM
posting this in both threads:
sorry it's just a pic off my phone. already posted in the mail.
the enclosure was done by Mark O'Shea and fitted with my optical tremolo guts (:
(http://www.dazatronyx.com/custom-shop/cowboytrem.jpg)
Now, off to Alice Springs for some shots (pun intended) of that with some sand in the background (better make it black and white photos, the red sand wouldn't seem fitting).
Like it a lot.
Edit: Spelling, seems like seams wasn't the word I was looking for.
Hey,
This pedal will be in my Post Office Box tomorrow.
Can't wait to get it.
It's The opening scene from the best western of all time...
"Once Upon a Time in the West" Charles Bronson/Henry Fonda.
Only one of the three cowboys in this scene survives and as I added the crows........ they live.
Darron's Optical Trem is a super sweet sounding trem it's been great working with him on this.
Cheers
Couple of other etches I have done :
ACDC........ Darron T did the guts, I did the enclosure.
The "B" pedal is a GGG Blues Breaker I did and it worked well, pretty good pedal.
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff475/retro414/ACDCa.jpg)
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff475/retro414/BBreaker1.jpg)
Awesome! ;D
Today i made 2 etches.Enjoy.
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/315573_10150398340851137_535261136_8407442_698998680_n.jpg)
(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/382681_10150398342401137_535261136_8407453_1290763656_n.jpg)
My first etches: a fuzz and an auto wah.
(http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/9365/dwcb.jpg)
cool work guys :icon_cool:
forgot to post this one!... ;)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P161111_00.19%5B01%5D.jpg)
Quote from: retro414 on November 23, 2011, 03:37:33 PM
The "B" pedal is a GGG Blues Breaker I did and it worked well, pretty good pedal.
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff475/retro414/BBreaker1.jpg)
Wow, I am impressed by this. That's a pretty great design.
My latest and an experiment with sanding.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/PJsComp-Boost1.jpg)
Quote from: Strange on December 02, 2011, 08:32:22 PM
My latest and an experiment with sanding.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/PJsComp-Boost1.jpg)
^^^--- Very nice!!
Quote from: Strange on December 02, 2011, 08:32:22 PM
My latest and an experiment with sanding.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/PJsComp-Boost1.jpg)
Wow, that fricken rules. Great design and paint/sanding scheme.
Thanks for the kind words. I am still new to etching - the new etch is my fifth attempt. Here are my etches in chronological order:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/OwlFuzz.jpg)
Fuzz Factory
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/TheScream.jpg)
Modded/Stripped TS808
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/CobraDrive.jpg)
Modded/Tuned/Stripped High Gain TS808
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/CobRat.jpg)
Proco Rat (Tuned for Bass)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/PJsComp-Boost1.jpg)
MXR DynaComp and Clean Boost
Thanks so much to the forum and its contributing members for the knowledge and willingness to share.
While I am obviously still a beginer I would offer to those just starting out my humble advice: Focus on the preparation of your enclosure. When you think you have prep sanded enough sand more! After that, more sanding! The enclosure needs to be free of any and all surface imperfections and be as flat as possible. I have also found that PNP Blue with additional nail polish over as much of the unexposed areas as possible maximizes your chances of a clean and 'burn free' etch.
oops, wrong thread...thought there was a Lot of etching in the pics thread... :icon_rolleyes:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/FJBRaider.jpg)
Built as an Xmas gift for a big Raiders fan.
I only etched two pedals, because it's too much work. One of them made it to the Catalinbread website :-)
(http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/23524/Dirty_Little_Secret.jpg)
(http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/23524/OD-1.jpg)
Nice, roseblood. Is that a 14 pin OD-1?
Heres my latest.one reverb and one ts808hw point to point.
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/409313_134686343314860_100003204848595_157755_1297372588_n.jpg)
(http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/403691_134686713314823_100003204848595_157757_134670431_n.jpg)
Quote from: Strange on December 26, 2011, 01:39:56 PM
Nice, roseblood. Is that a 14 pin OD-1?
It's a Black Cat OD-1, not a Boss OD-1... Very dynamic clipping based on a OP275, no diodes.
a sneaky peek preview of the spitfire v3..it'll have 3mm red/orange eyes like the original too... :icon_cool:. ;)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.30%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.31.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140112_17.34%5B02%5D.jpg)
Really impressive stuff, guys. I've done a few,
but I'm wondering if you guys think this complicated art can make a good etch.
(http://cl.ly/2y2m1L0A2E140d0p3R2D/King%20Log2.jpg)
@hi jubal, shading?....hmmm....ive never tried it....that might be a problem when it comes to etch imo...
i stick to solid bold lines....i'd be interested to see how a shaded etch comes out though!!!!...i bet slade has tried it.. ;)
but at the end of the day , i don't think its a good idea!!!...stick to bold stuff!... ;)
you may be better off sanding box, ironing image, then clearcoating instead....
Really nice jubal!
What software did you use? ;D
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6789311239_3e52daf3bb_b.jpg)
fet preamp
@ g : i saw that nice! , it reminded me of your wasp' pic... really great etch btw....was there shading on that, or did you rub/sand it out..... it looks well cool... :icon_cool:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=85803.msg732021#msg732021
@ deadastranaut !
thanks !
no shades, just plain ink
i use photoshop and i use only straight B&W .
wasp was made with paper magazine and ferric chloride
and this one with muriatic acid / hydrogen peroxide with vinyl stickers.
cool, that etch suits the leaf 'vein' pattern...
when i etch, i'm always tempted to dab in a bit of paint, but really they look cool as f... a'u naturale after etching.....although i 'm tempted to try some translucent colours...just to see underneath/metal gradient too.... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Quote from: jubal81 on January 31, 2012, 03:41:34 AM
Really impressive stuff, guys. I've done a few,
but I'm wondering if you guys think this complicated art can make a good etch.
Depends on how sneaky you are with your pixelation. I failed on this one, but it still turned out good:
(http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/9689/fuzzyhoover.jpg)
From THIS:
(http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/3771/fuzzyhooverpic.gif)
Which was converted from THIS:
(http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/4461/dsc0057sj.jpg)
whoooooooooooOOOOOOOOooooooooo (theremin sound).....whoooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooo
couple of delays i'm building....etched today...whooooooOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooo.....watch the skies!!!!!!..... ;)
the alien head will have green led eyes.....whhhhhhooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooo...................
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P080212_17.42.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P080212_17.41.jpg)
Great job dude ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 08, 2012, 01:04:24 PM(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P080212_17.42.jpg)
VERY nice! I particularly like the beams coming off the saucers. Did you draw it yourself?
How much of your transfer do you paint over before etching?
@mike, this is how it started off as a clipart i found......i redrew the saucers, buildings, etc.....and added a couple of humans....and a moon...good old inkscape.. ;)
i only paint round the edge of the box....i should leave open areas to paint and save on toner, but i always forget....
during this cold weather, ive taken to etching in a plastic bowl, which is placed in hot water in my sink....the etching is much more reactive.. ;)
i'll get round to a 'video' tutorial one day...if my video soft takes 3gp vid...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/ufo-invasion_Clipart_Free.png)
Cool. It looks really good. I really like how the one guy is in front of the skyline. :)
Here is one that is fresh out of the acid. I just finished it about 15 minutes ago:
(http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/9223/phaseshiftetch.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/phaseshiftetch.jpg/)
It is puzzling that I can do fine details, like the outlined text for the words "Phase Shift" but I can't do the stinking straight line along the top without getting pitting. I haven't figured it out, but I am pretty sure I am narrowing it down. It's either the transfer medium (dollar store photo paper), sanding too smooth (nothing to grip), or, most likely, the etchant is too mild. Even with heating, it takes forever. That allows time for the acid to absorb into the paper embedded in the toner, which causes the pitting... I think. Stronger peroxide (and more safety equipment) is in order.
Here is the drawing of what I wanted it to look like:
(http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5937/phaseshiftdrawing.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/201/phaseshiftdrawing.jpg/)
It's going to be a Phase 90, so I'm going to paint it in an orange gradient. Not sure on the text color, or the stars. Black knobs, jacks on top.
Now to finish the board... :)
Mike
looks great, that'll be nice orange and black..classic... :icon_cool: yeah i know what you mean about text versus lines...weird eh?...
many variables to that, ..as you say...
i use 180 grit paper to start with, really grippy.....my image is printed on 150gsm photopaper (toner save settings off), iron on hottest (linen) (not for too long actually..just till the box is untouchable.
peel off when cooled..rinse, rub off any residue..i let it dry, then pick any residue out with a pin/tiny screwdriver, nail varnish edges...tape up and matchsticks..
i do make a strong ferric solution and do 2 boxes at a time...heat definately helps..and agitating ...i leave it in till the edges go rusty, and bubbling ceases a little...
rinse, and then i use a toothbrush to scrub out detail, then a used piece of 600 with a block...so as not to sand metal off...wash with ho water and washing up liquid,
dry then spray black etc...sand with used 600 again...well thats my long drawn out process, but it works :).... ive had good results with magazine paper, as lond as its only got text on it..no colour parts...
i look forward to seeing yours done...it'll be cool...ive never made a phase 90..only 45.... :icon_cool:
Well, here it is, all painted. I'm not particularly happy with the result, due to the pitting, but I am happy with the shades of orange. Not bad, considering I had to mix it all out of red and yellow Testors enamel.
(http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/6057/phaseshiftpainted.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/252/phaseshiftpainted.jpg/)
Thanks for the tips, Rob. On future etches, I'm going to stop at a low-grit paper, and I'm going to use a more aggressive etchant.
Still have to build this thing... heh. :)
Mike
when you put the case into the plasic container in the acid do you just sit it on the bottom or do you put something in there to lift it up a bit? Do you stir the chloride at all to keep it moving?
I tried the enclosure-in-the acid method, and it didn't work well for me at all. It was just way too aggressive, causing the aluminum to flake off in sheets. And since it is face down, you kind of can't see it.
I have had my best results with either a sponge and a glove, or a toothbrush. I use HCl 31% + H2O2 3%.
Mike
@mike: i think it looks great... custom colour too... :icon_cool:
yeah know what you mean 'just got to build it now'...fiinishing my delay today... ;D
@kev: i do put my boxes face down in the tub, but i tape bits of matches on the dege of the front to keep it raised off the bottom....but i constantly keep lifting it out and dunking it back in
to agitate it...i find its ready to come out when the silver is black, and it has a little rust around he edges of the details...thats when i whip it out....the box that is.. ;)
for the images shown, when you put it onto the pedal you must invert the white and black correct? What do you use to do this?
You do your design with the white being the etched part, and the black being the non-etched part. Once you are finished, you flip the image horizontally, and print it.
Your print out should look correct when viewing its reflection in a mirror, or when held up to a bright light and looking through the non-printed side.
This is what my transfer looked like:
(http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6900/transferexample.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/528/transferexample.jpg/)
I use a very old version of Photoshop and a scanned enclosure. I use layer styles to simulate an etch effect so I get a better idea of what it might look like.
Mike
@kevilay: download inkscape its a free vector graphics prog, its great, it gives really clean edges to your drawings, you can also download amazing fonts at dafont.com
to use in it...
when i first started etching i used a crappy image prog, and the edges were not clean, by clean i mean circles would have jagged edges, etc...but inkscape wont...
inkscape takes a bit of getting used too, but there are plenty of tutorials on youtube for it...
also, i make a blank template for the box 'face' size, 1590b, 1590bb ..etc...then use that...once you've got them sized properly away you go... ;)
My enclosure isn't finished yet, but here's a view of my etching. I was going for a sharper etch. The fuzz around the crown and around my lines are errors (although the effect isn't bad).
To get it a bit closer to what I wanted, I decided to paint it. I have a coat of primer on now, and I plan on getting some gloss paint into the etched recesses tomorrow night.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/Doc_Roadster/DSC01986.jpg)
I too have caught the etching bug...
Here are some of my first.
I posted a few others in the 1590A thread too (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=64752.msg834310;topicseen#msg834310).
BYOC Flanger
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_7894.jpg)
Super Page Bender
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/ZosoBender.jpg)
Madbean Darkside
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_8053.jpg)
Madbean Cup Cake (orange squeezer)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_8080.jpg)
cool stuff... love those old pics of scantily clad women..betty page etc.... ;)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on February 16, 2012, 04:59:35 AM
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_8080.jpg)[/quote
Really dig this one.
My latest - Two Headed Fuzz - classic FuzzFace with bias adjustment - vintage looking componets and carbon comp resistors on a turret board. I was going for a distressed/reliced look but i need alot more practice.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/THF-5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/THF1.jpg)
^ etched?.. :)
so the bird is raised?...then painted?. :)
or bird is recessed black then paint rollered red over?... looks cool btw.. :icon_cool:...
The bird was recessed - I etched it, painted the entire thing red, taped off everything but the bird, painted the bird area, sanded accordingly. After the black paint the bird is almost flush with the rest of the enclosure.
I am still experimenting with different techniques and learning - this was an attempt to be able to better control my sanding with the distress/relic motif. Again, I need lots of practice. ;)
Has anyone had any success etching an enclosure that has already been drilled? Treating the edges of the the holes with nail varnish and taping them off?
I have done it before although I just taped over the holes (overlapping s few times) and it worked fine.
Thanks Strange.
Not a problem - I did not coat the holes as I figured it would be a pain to try and clean it afterwards. That, and it was a simple three hole accross the top and a foot switch. The etch was in the centre so taping over the holes was quick and easy.
thought i'd try fibre optics... :icon_idea:
need to redo it, but you get the idea!...it should look cool when its cleaned up and done...properly. ;)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P050312_18.01.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 05, 2012, 01:12:27 PM
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P050312_18.01.jpg)
Something to really get you going Rob...
How about the spaceship lights changing from one color to another as the dirt gets "grittier."
To make it look like the ships are firing on the innocent people 8)
nice idea, gov, and good work rob. you could rig up one of your 386 sound to light circuits (with a trimmer on the input?) and different coloured leds (one colour input, another for delay?) connected to the fibre optics? lookin' good.
Quote from: invaders from marsit could happen tomorrow!
cool ideas guys...
yeah might go with the 386 idea...those fibres are a fiddly job to do....the box ruined about 7 of my 0.6mm bits too.....
so i won't be doing this too often.. ::)
To you guys and to any ladies ;) have been really inspiring so I decided to try my first etch!
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Guitarstuff010.jpg)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Guitarstuff017.jpg)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Guitarstuff018.jpg)
I'm rather happy with it but I couldn't get it to get it to etch as deep as I've seen on others ???
Hey guys! I have a few quick questions.
First and foremost, Deadastronaut-where did you get the fiber optics? I would LOVE to do this in a pedal I'm working on.
Second question. I too have the etching bug. What do you guys do with the etchant after you've used it? It's my understanding that you cannot re-use it? Is that true? If so, what's a proper way of getting rid of it? Also, is there somewhere to order larger quantities of it? I know Radio Shack carries PCB etchant, which is what I've been using, but it seems expensive when you're etching a lot.
Here's what I've done so far.
Darth Vader done for a member on ILF
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/photobucket-608-1330299756424.jpg)
Robot Devil kit (this one didn't turn out as good as I had hoped)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/2012-02-01_09-50-24_291.jpg)
Woolly Mammoth clone
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/2012-01-15_16-49-53_834.jpg)
lol i read MILF :D
I just finished etching a Vader enclosure too.
This one is a Bazz Fuzz circuit, but I've added a toggle to go between the suggested capacitor for the bass and a smaller one for guitar.
(http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/Doc_Roadster/DSC02173.jpg)
@jwar: i bought a fibre optic lamp for a quid at a poundland shop.... ;)
it looks good, but its a pain in the butt to do...
(http://www.sleepwalk.com/guitar/gristle.jpg)
Have to go back and fill in a few of the shallower lines. Ok for a first experiment.
Quote from: jwar on March 17, 2012, 07:56:46 PM
Second question. I too have the etching bug. What do you guys do with the etchant after you've used it? It's my understanding that you cannot re-use it? Is that true? If so, what's a proper way of getting rid of it? Also, is there somewhere to order larger quantities of it? I know Radio Shack carries PCB etchant, which is what I've been using, but it seems expensive when you're etching a lot.
If you are using Feric Chloride you can and should reuse it many times.
(http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/8248/bilders2048.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/46/bilders2048.jpg/)
Just the Spitfire from Rob...
cool, they have got to have led eyes..... :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
Quote from: Strange on March 19, 2012, 08:56:25 AM
Quote from: jwar on March 17, 2012, 07:56:46 PM
Second question. I too have the etching bug. What do you guys do with the etchant after you've used it? It's my understanding that you cannot re-use it? Is that true? If so, what's a proper way of getting rid of it? Also, is there somewhere to order larger quantities of it? I know Radio Shack carries PCB etchant, which is what I've been using, but it seems expensive when you're etching a lot.
If you are using Feric Chloride you can and should reuse it many times.
Oh ok. Well, it's just sitting in Tupperware in my garage right now. When I used it again, I no it didn't seem to work as well, but it was also a colder day. I think I need to put a space heater in my garage. Good to know at any rate.
jwar, the ferric chloride works much faster if it's warm. I usually put my tupperware in a larger tupperware with hot water in it to warm the etchant. It works very well! Here's my latest etch for a Small Stone build that nearly killed me:
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=47290&g2_serialNumber=1)][/img]
Come on!
Tell us more about the accident! :)
@pakrat: The tip of his gun is crooked. I hate it when I slam the end of my gun in a door. :icon_redface:
(just joking, of course ;D )
Hah! It would be nice if I could find a crooked led to put in there.....
So not a completely finished pedal, but I'm pretty proud of this etch. My cousin LOVES Donald Trump...yea...seriously. So he asked me to put a super fuzz in this huge box for him with this design. God I hope Trump doesn't find this and sue me. hahah...seriously.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/photobucket-690-1332726596815.jpg)
the acid got on the inside of the box a little bit!!!!!
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/photobucket-1465-1332726646825.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/photobucket-4579-1332726612304.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/photobucket-3792-1332726636297.jpg)
He wouldn't sue you, he would just want you to pay a fee every time the pedal is used. Nice etch!
Here is my version of the Omega Treble Booster. This is my first attempt to etch an enclosure. Not great, but not too bad for a start:
(http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/reaperQ45/Omega/DSC07846.jpg)
(http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/reaperQ45/Omega/DSC07843.jpg)
(http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/reaperQ45/Omega/DSC07844.jpg)
(http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt308/reaperQ45/Omega/DSC07845.jpg)
The Zappagizer
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_8235.jpg)
Codtone Bass Fuzz
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/BassFuzzshift.jpg)
Gnome Bender
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_8211.jpg)
The Omega looks very nice Tex, especially for your first try!
I also like that Gnome Bender a lot, it has a nice vintage look to it.
Etched backplate. The black color is the remaining laser toner from the mask. I thought it looked cool so I left it.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/hardstatic/photo-1.jpg)
What do you all use for transfers? It seems like pnp only works like half the time for me.
Quote from: jwar on April 03, 2012, 04:19:40 PM
What do you all use for transfers? It seems like pnp only works like half the time for me.
I use this stuff from the Dollar Tree. $1.00 for eight sheets and it works so good I almost feel like i'm cheating. My printer is a standard HP LASERJET (not Inkjet) and I print at 1200 DPI. I've tried Press N Peel, expensive photo paper, magazine paper, etc. The PNP worked pretty well, but at $2.00/sheet it's cost prohibitive.
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/hardstatic/photo-2.jpg)
I also started using one of these gizmos during the ironing process - allows me to lay off the iron a bit and keep the missus from yelling at me:
(http://www.secondskinaudio.com/tdc/_images/_products/med_256.jpg)
Quote from: jwar on April 03, 2012, 04:19:40 PM
What do you all use for transfers? It seems like pnp only works like half the time for me.
I use dollar store photo paper. 8 sheets for a buck at the Dollar Tree. It's listed as being for inkjet printers, and they always have it in stock. I have checked multiple stores, and they all had it.
Edit: It's the exact stuff that hardstatic posted above. :D
You an also use magazine paper. That should really be catalog and flyer paper, though, since most magazines use paper that is higher quality than necessary. You want something cheap-- music catalogs, flyers, or other assorted junk mail.
Another edit: By the way, prep is the key. The best transfer mediums are no match for a flat iron and a curved enclosure.
Mike
I've had very good luck with Tayda's 1590Bs without any real prep. I rub the enclosure down with some alcohol just to get any dirt off of it, but I don't sand them. I've done maybe 10-15 so far and the only one that gave me any problems had a bit of a lumpy surface, the I eventually got the toner to stick without sanding. I also got a few 1590DDs from 4site that came pre-sanded. I was not happy about that. Now I have to sand them with a finer grit because the tone doesn't want to stick to them.
Quote from: mremic01 on April 03, 2012, 07:48:35 PM
I've had very good luck with Tayda's 1590Bs without any real prep.
+1
They seem to work for me too. ;D
Thanks guys! I did another etch last night, but ended creating my own design with a paint pen. Did it more out of frustation than anything. I wanted to etch something damn it! It turned out really well! I used what I had left of my Ferric Chloride, which I love btw. I also bought some of those sheet from Dollar Tree! hahah! You were right they are easy to find! Hopefully they work good, we'll find out soon. I'll post pics of my etch after I've painted it and filled the box.
Quote from: jwar on April 04, 2012, 08:56:58 AM
Thanks guys! I did another etch last night, but ended creating my own design with a paint pen. Did it more out of frustation than anything. I wanted to etch something damn it! It turned out really well! I used what I had left of my Ferric Chloride, which I love btw. I also bought some of those sheet from Dollar Tree! hahah! You were right they are easy to find! Hopefully they work good, we'll find out soon. I'll post pics of my etch after I've painted it and filled the box.
Remember, you can use ferric chloride multiple times. I've been reusing the same bottle for awhile now, and it's gotten a little slower but it still works fine. It smells a lot worse and is a lot murkier too.
That stuff worked like a charm!!!!!!!! Thanks so much guys! God so much easier than PNP!
Here's the end result of my etch. Turned out pretty good IMO.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/photobucket-4065-1333893219728.jpg)
Nice one!
Welcome to the Dark Side. ;)
Hello everyone !
Here are my last etched enclosures.
I've been trying etched enclosures for a few years now and I really fell in love with nico fx work. IMHO, his boxes are the most gorgeous around for their perfect look and the choice of his artwork.
I tried to inspire myself from his reversed etched boxes and despite a lot of care, I ended up really far from the result I expected :/
Could anyone tell me what went wrong?
Here's what I did: I sanded the boxes really flat with an electric sander. Transfered my artwork with PnP and etched with ferric chloride.Got a nice looking deep etch. I cleaned the boxes, drilled them and sprayed them with lacquer paint. Then, I sanded them with 800 sandpaper with a block and that was when it started to get ruined (see pics below) the edges lost all the paint before the center of the pedal and a goey dark dirt appeared while sanding on the "clean" paint.
I did a "positive etch" with the same batch, fortunately this one looks much cleaner.
Could it be the vise I used while drilling that made the box not flat anymore? Or the little nail mark I do to center my drillings? Is a 800-grade sand paper too strong?
Thanks in advance.
Syl
GGG alembic booster
(http://s18.postimage.org/javqanjjd/japan_boost_for_diystompboxes.jpg)
GGG jordan bosstone
(http://s15.postimage.org/xt4eyxhor/fuzzgun_for_diystompboxes.jpg)
Red Llama waiting for its guts
(http://s9.postimage.org/y4akhwkq7/ace_bushy_for_diystompboxes.jpg)
@poppyman, I am definitely no expert on etched enclosures, but it looks as if the etch isn't deep enough. I use even lower grits to clean my boxes and move up to 2000 to finish them. If the boxes aren't flat anymore that would probably cause problems too, so keep an eye on that. I think your boxes look very cool either way.
thank you pakrat!
I'm gonna give it a go and try etch as deep as I can. I was just worried that the acid would start to "eat" under the toner. For the sand paper , I guess I have to order it since my local french DIY shops don't make any above 1000. Oh well, I think etching taught me patience already! ;)
Have you seen this tutorial? http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=80962.0 Slade's etches are a true inspiration, they are incredible! I pretty much follow his methods, and I get a little better each time. Painting over the toner also makes it much more resistant to the etchant, so you can etch longer/deeper..... Preparation is the key!
Was the first pedal I ever built so it was about time i gave it a nice look. Devi Ever Soda Meiser/VFM built from the kit with the mods listed on her schematic.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Picture008.jpg)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/Picture007.jpg)
The space invader was a last minute thing but it suits what sounds the pedal is capable of. Ha the blocks of wood are almost there! Got impatient.
Quote from: pakrat on April 12, 2012, 11:43:59 AM
Have you seen this tutorial? http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=80962.0 Slade's etches are a true inspiration, they are incredible! I pretty much follow his methods, and I get a little better each time. Painting over the toner also makes it much more resistant to the etchant, so you can etch longer/deeper..... Preparation is the key!
Hey pakrat, sorry for the delayed reply/question (I was on tour !).
I usually used mark hammer's tutorial with some hints of Ruz's method. Ruz etchings are absolutely amazing too. But Nicofx's ones are my favs so far!
I just re-read the whole tutorial and didn't find any mention of a "painting over the toner" step. Is it something that you do? How does it work?
I found something that I didn't pay much attention to before in Ruz tutorial that I should try : masking the little details at some point to let the bigger surfaces etch longer.
Anyways, thanks you so much for the hints. Etching turns out to be my favorite time of the pedal making now. Loads of rewarding work (on the good days) :)
I love the way etching looks too, which is why I'm always looking to improve my methods. I have not seen any of Mark Hammer's or Nicofx's etches, but I will be searching now. Maybe the painting thing was from Aron's site, I can't remember now..... but in that method, he cuts away large spots of black in his graphic prog before he prints. It's supposed to make the air escape more easily while you transfer it to the enclosure. Then, use paint or nail polish to cover the spots after the transfer. I have done it and it works better for me. I usually paint the entire area right over the toner as close to the graphic as possible to reinforce the toner so I can etch deeper. Some people "paint" the etchant onto the areas to be etched. That method should keep un-etched areas from getting that pitted look, but I have not tried it. I would think the etch could be uneven doing it like that. Looking at some of the pics people post in here really let's you see the crazy talent they have.... and some really nice ones in this thread too http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.19180
Nice endorphin, I love that atari look. How does that thing sound?
Thanks man sounds pretty cool the soda meiser side is a little bassy and the vintage fuzz master is bright and little tone benderish in my opinion with the mods you get some oscillation which the starve knob controls the pitch. Sounds reminiscent of an oldschool game console cause it gets all glitchy and kind of arpeggiates so i threw the wood pieces on those were inspiration from beavis audio research, moog, buchla kind of stuff too.
(http://www.touellskouarn.fr/cache/com_zoo/images/imgp0175_1d67719b1a25a14abcb1a86e0d30cfea.jpg)
---
(http://www.touellskouarn.fr/cache/com_zoo/images/imgp0173_714df481ea387ac34f1d1ba9d7115487.jpg)
(http://www.touellskouarn.fr/cache/com_zoo/images/imgp0179_834fb97de42974bd4e66dedafd6bf04e.jpg)
---
(http://www.touellskouarn.fr/cache/com_zoo/images/imgp0169_35f973787c4c3afbcadb61c397efa58e.jpg)
looking great as always, q.
I like the way your etch designs always look like (dead) leaves...and your knobs are always very classy and look like taken from vintage radios.
Here's my last etch taken from a drawing made by the friend I made the pedal for.
It's a GGG EAT trem with the boost mod. I usually don't like the knobs which come with the kits but I thought they looked good on that box :)
(http://s16.postimage.org/my437abo5/arcwest_trem.jpg)
Here is one of my latest builts.a zvex fuzz factory based pedal but with two 2n3906 trans and of course one 2n390 and some mods.
2 etches for small clone chorus, the one on the left is for a old friend who collects war militaria, he'll love this....its his 50th birthday present.
it will have blue on/off led and a standard 3mm blue pulse led in the centre of the iron cross... :icon_cool:
the one on the right is the 'baphomet' for a friend who is an angel witch fan. old school..... :icon_cool:
same blue on/off led...and standard blue in the lap of the baphomet...(baphead :))
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100612_16.23.jpg)
The war themed should have had "in" and "Aus".
yeah, shit i wish id thought of that....cool idea!. :)
2 small clones. :icon_cool:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140612_19.17.jpg)
Here's what I've been working on:
(http://www.justonemorebuild.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Step-and-Swell-etch1-150x150.jpg) (http://www.justonemorebuild.com/step-and-swell-enclosure/step-and-swell-etch1/) (http://www.justonemorebuild.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Step-and-Swell-etch2-150x150.jpg) (http://www.justonemorebuild.com/step-and-swell-enclosure/step-and-swell-etch2/)
cool, for some reason it reminds me of a 50's vending machine...which is a compliment btw...i like it!.. :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 21, 2012, 02:42:09 AM
cool, for some reason it reminds me of a 50's vending machine...which is a compliment btw...i like it!.. :icon_cool:
True dat.
Pure awesomeness. Are the fonts your regular Microsoft ones?
^ who me?..i use fonts from dafont .com...
nice svg's for inkscape, no pixelation. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 21, 2012, 08:19:39 AM
^ who me?..i use fonts from dafont .com...
nice svg's for inkscape, no pixelation. ;)
I was actually asking Mike, but thanks nonetheless! ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 21, 2012, 02:42:09 AM
cool, for some reason it reminds me of a 50's vending machine...which is a compliment btw...i like it!.. :icon_cool:
Thanks! That is kind of what I am going for. I have little in the way of artistic skills, so it is function over form for me. I was going for an old-style fire alarm type look, sort of... heh!
Quote from: asatbluesboy on June 21, 2012, 08:13:12 AMPure awesomeness. Are the fonts your regular Microsoft ones?
I use the same font on almost all my pedals: Blue Highway (http://www.dafont.com/blue-highway.font). I found it when I was looking for a font similar to those used on license plates, and it has quickly become my favorite. Nice clean lines, easy to read, and easy to etch.
Thanks guys!
Mike
what is it? is it like rick's attack release generator?
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Colorsound%20Overdriver/DSCF0083.JPG)
Colorsound Overdriver.
Nice work on that overdriver. It looks like it was etched in hell......
I had to show this off. It's a re-housed Mountainking Megalith a did for a guy. Turned out awesome.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/IMG_3066.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/IMG_3060.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/IMG_3061.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/IMG_3062.jpg)
^Awesome.
"Enhanced Centaur"
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_8765.jpg)
Damn!I love vintage pcb's!What are those?
Quote from: guitarmageddon on March 30, 2012, 07:32:11 PM
The Zappagizer
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_8235.jpg)
OMG. Zappagizer rules. It has a supernatural quality. Like, the spirit of zappa is being unearthed through this pedal.
I admire the creative approach. Bravo!
Quote from: tasos on June 28, 2012, 04:33:33 AM
Damn!I love vintage pcb's!What are those?
They're all by me.
Top is a Codpiece (http://www.codtone.com.au/gallery/Boards/codpiece-boards/131021)!
Others are an English Channel and a Nurse Quacky.
Made another one, this is OCD.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Fulltone%20OCD/Wesl%20Lee/DSCF0087.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Fulltone%20OCD/Wesl%20Lee/DSCF0088.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Fulltone%20OCD/Wesl%20Lee/DSCF0089.JPG)
i see you guys are going for the relic'd look.... :icon_cool:
So I got fed up painting, labeling and clearcoating enclosure and decided it's time to try etching.
Here's my first attempt, a Tube Screamer - I used an old box with a dent and a deep scratch in it. Turned out not too bad, but choice of font is bad or I etched the font too long. Made a few mistakes masking off some areas, better luck next time.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m499/pyr08/My%20Pedals/TS-808-1stEtch.jpg)
So after my first attempt, I decided to do something a little more basic, with cleaner lines. My son has been hassling me for a Klon, so this is for him.
I'm happy with how this one turned out.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m499/pyr08/My%20Pedals/Klon-etch1.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m499/pyr08/My%20Pedals/Klon-etch2.jpg)
Quote from: Pyr0 on July 02, 2012, 04:59:37 PM
So after my first attempt, I decided to do something a little more basic, with cleaner lines. My son has been hassling me for a Klon, so this is for him.
I'm happy with how this one turned out.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m499/pyr08/My%20Pedals/Klon-etch1.jpg)
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m499/pyr08/My%20Pedals/Klon-etch2.jpg)
Pyro... That is beautiful!!!
Would you share the process with us? Give us the blow by blow on the creation of this masterpiece ;D
digging the clean and simple look too. also trying to distract from the other pictures thread and encourage all others to indulge in etching for a while as there are only twelve pages to go over there before we hit one thousand and i am still without idea, concept and parts! :P
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on July 02, 2012, 07:17:03 PM
Pyro... That is beautiful!!!
Would you share the process with us? Give us the blow by blow on the creation of this masterpiece ;D
Well I just did a screen grab from a pic of a real one, and used Corel Photo Paint and Corel Draw to change it to a b&w image, then a few hours of higildy pigildy to convert it to an outline line art image apply a bit of smoothing and convert to a vector image, so I can now resize it without getting any jagged edges. I can't remember the exact steps, I would have to do it again and write them down.
I use Corel Draw for all my drilling templates and labeling, so I just used that for the final image and inverted and reversed it before printing out on glossy paper for ironing on to the box.
I have a very old LaserJet 4 printer, but I can't afford the proper HP refills, so I refilled the cartridge myself with laser toner. I don't think it's great toner, as it's very hard to get a true black image, especially when printing large areas of black. So I just printed small black boxes around the lettering, drill points and image, and after ironing it on I filled in the gaps with my favourite colour nail varnish :icon_redface:
Ah what the heck, here it is
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20272266/Klon-Etch-Reverse.jpg)
and here's a PDF of the final image ready for transfer, size should be ok, it's for a bb size box.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20272266/Klon-Etch-Reverse.pdf
:icon_cool:
Pyr0
Hey pyrO,
this etch look REALLY neat!
How did you get this superb polished finish?
Did you buy one of these pre polished box like this one --> http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=759
or did you polish it yourself? if so, how? (if you mind sharing)
it really looks fantastic.
:icon_wink:
Quote from: Pyr0 on July 02, 2012, 09:23:34 PM
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20272266/Klon-Etch-Reverse.jpg)
and here's a PDF of the final image ready for transfer, size should be ok, it's for a bb size box.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/20272266/Klon-Etch-Reverse.pdf
:icon_cool:
Pyr0
Would you mind reposting that here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=97046.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=97046.0)
^ thats really nice pyro.....very clean n shiny... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
@Perrow
yes I'll post it there too, that thread is great and needs more content.
@poppyman
Just a regular enclosure I think it may have been one of Taydya's, before I etched it, I wet sanded it with various grades of wet&dry, 400, 800 and 1200 grades I think I used. I had to sand quite a bit, as the first sanding actually uncovered some pitting in the box. I do it near a sink with a slow running tap, keeping the paper wet all the time. Also used some 000 steel wool but don't lean too hard with it or it will scratch.
After etching, I then used a metal polishing mop with brown polishing compound followed by a soft mop with blue compound. Then clean off all the residue with naphtha, or acetone, and buff it up with a soft cloth. I just use the polishing mops in my cheap drill, it's not ideal but does the job if your carefull. Get it slightly wrong when polishing and the box can end up the other side of the room :D
I don't think I'll bother clear coating it, as the last time I tried to clear coat a polished enclosure the lacquer wouldn't quite bond right and streaked a lot.
Looks nice. Do you polish the enclosure?
^^^ Yes, see bottom of previous post before yours.
last works
microamp with loop
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/S7009232.jpg)
footswitch looper with buffer
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/S7009234.jpg)
phase 90 with mod
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/S7009096.jpg)
sans amp gt2
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/S7009090.jpg)
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/S7009091.jpg)
samurai chorus
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/S70090851.jpg)
zombie chorus
(http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l299/eskizo69/Efectos/S7008659.jpg)
cool etches metalero: samurai chorus?....
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 12, 2012, 04:37:37 AM
cool etches metalero: samurai chorus?....
Somewhere in Time chorus!
Samus Aran for the win! :icon_biggrin:
dead astronaut: its a little angel chorus, but that name dont fit with a metal head pedalboard
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/165226_485220666379_5148886_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/163439_500359431379_3430879_n.jpg)
this is not etched but i wanna show this too. Just want to get your opinions.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/166248_485216991379_3973648_n.jpg)
ISP DECIMATOR
(http://s19.postimage.org/miej846tf/Picture_pedal_007.jpg)
(http://s19.postimage.org/d5ijhqsg3/Picture_pedal_008.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Etsen/DSCF0149.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Etsen/DSCF0150.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Etsen/DSCF0151.JPG)
Another one
(http://s19.postimage.org/wrbp2r98j/IMG_1033_1.jpg)
And finished:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Etsen/DSCF0156.JPG)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3131065/Pedalen/Etsen/DSCF0157.JPG)
Hello! These are my first attempts.
Fuzz Face (Silicon)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8435/7810998952_c064cf214b_c.jpg)
Tube Screamer
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8440/7811004730_5e35b0579f_c.jpg)
Clean Booster
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8431/7811005248_9ac1fe2da9_c.jpg)
Mosrite Fuzzrite
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8290/7811005912_2f5ac01312_c.jpg)
Fuzz Face (Germanium)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7267/7811006494_5ed37f2a60_c.jpg)
Hello!
loads of great etched boxes lately!
I need a little help here: I tried reversed etch boxes for a while now and I think I almost there, but I 'm not quite satisfied with the "texture" of the finish. If you look closer the painted part is kind of goey-grainy with dull patches. I used classic spray paint and a layer of red laquer paint. I used 1000 grade sand paper to finish the box. What could I use to prevent this dull finish? Higher sand paper grade? clearcoats? Let me know!
Thanks in advance for you help.
trotsky drive:
(http://i48.tinypic.com/sovh5g.jpg)
+1 lots of cool etches ...love that decimator... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
@poppyman:
i always stick a coat or 2 of clear over the whole box after etching/colouring, it shines the paint, and preserves the aluminium box shine too..
: my mate has a pedal i did without clear, and the aluminium finish has ''dimmed'' quite a bit compared to one i built for him that has a clearcoat finish...(built around the same time)
with car spray clear you can let it dry naturally , or whack it in a toaster for a little while..(not too hot)..just my 2p. :)
thanks deadastronaut!
I think I 'll give it a go next time :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 25, 2012, 05:19:59 AM
+1 lots of cool etches ...love that decimator... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Thanks! Rob ;)
Hi,
So, I followed deadastronaut's advice (thanks again) and it made the finish very smooth and shiny looking. I'm very happy about it :)
The problem is that the clear coat doesn't really fix the uneven colour "dark/light stains" aspect of the paint after I sanded it. It looks kind of ok on this box but I'd like to be able to have a more consistant, "homogeneous" colour...Any good advice for that?
alembic boost:
(http://i46.tinypic.com/o077ua.jpg)
detail:
(http://i46.tinypic.com/xcuath.jpg)
^ Nice color and image!
thanks John!!!
It's inspired by all the fantastic designs found in this thread :)
i love it, i kinda like the effect too...though i can see why you would want it flatted out, rather than 'orange peel'...
you may be able to get rid of the 'peel' look with a really fine wire wool just on the paintwork..then clear...
good work man..nice design too.. :icon_cool:
I actually like the un eveness. It gives is more depth and variation.
If it was mine I'd leave it.
Quote from: John Lyons on September 02, 2012, 10:47:33 AM
I actually like the un eveness. It gives is more depth and variation.
If it was mine I'd leave it.
yeah me too.. :icon_cool:
I like it a lot too on this box, actually :)
It's just that I would like to have the choice of having an "orange peel" finish like this or a flat homogeneous colour if I want to, next time!
Anyway, thanks guys!!!
I'll try the steel wool trick on the next box!
Quote from: poppyman on September 02, 2012, 07:29:11 AMThe problem is that the clear coat doesn't really fix the uneven colour "dark/light stains" aspect of the paint after I sanded it. It looks kind of ok on this box but I'd like to be able to have a more consistant, "homogeneous" colour...Any good advice for that?
I had the
exact same problem-- micro-scratches resulting from sanding the paint, even with 1200 grit sandpaper. I use Testors enamel, and I like to apply it thick.
The solution is Meguiar's Scratch X 2.0, about $9 at Walmart. One application by hand and the paint will shine again.
The problem, though, is that it is not "body shop safe." That means it contains silicon, oil, or some other chemical that might interfere with your ability to clear over it. If you really want to clear it, you should look for a body shop safe polish / scratch remover.
Good luck!
Mike
I just tried my first attempt at etching an enclosure using the PDF linked on this thread. I had a problem getting the mask to transfer. The first time I tried it worked the best. I got 70% of my mask to transfer but could never get it enough to do the echant stage. I tried 5 other times with different ink types (ink/laser) and paper quality and could never get it to stick to the enclosure. I feel like the iron wasnt evenly heating the image maybe. Any suggestions?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/09/07/age6ebe7.jpg)
I would think that transfer issues could be caused by a number of factors:
- Transfer surface not flat.
- Transfer surface not clean.
- Iron not flat.
- Iron not hot enough.
- Iron duration too short.
- Toner composition not appropriate.
- Not enough toner on page.
- Not enough pressure during transfer.
My guess is almost always the first two. To get the best transfer, you need to make sure the enclosure is flat. To make sure the enclosure is flat, you need to use a sanding block (an actual commercial sanding block, not a block of wood). Clean with acetone before transferring. :)
Mike
DEATH DEALER - Silicon Tone Bender
(http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/228086_531267823556638_319554069_n.jpg)
FLESH EATER - Univox Super Fuzz
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/532215_530739890276098_789689082_n.jpg)
KRAKEN - Octavia
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/Kraken1.jpg)
More...
(http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/296436_524709554212465_7287728_n.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/RMs.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/FBL1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/SM1-4.jpg)
Codpiece Deluxe
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_9174.jpg)
Trem-lay
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_9238.jpg)
(K.O.T.)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_9292.jpg)
Boiling Point
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_9287.jpg)
Bixoric Expandora
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/IMG_9432_zps6878c573.jpg)
The lack of etchings I could hope to achieve is disturbing ;)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/syndromet/boosts.jpg)
Here's first (pointdextor) and second etch.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8188/8119310318_9f0c03cb63_n.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79940777@N04/8119310318/)
IMG_1826[1] (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79940777@N04/8119310318/) by frpedals (http://www.flickr.com/people/79940777@N04/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8324/8116710397_1b433e311d_n.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79940777@N04/8116710397/)
front left (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79940777@N04/8116710397/) by frpedals (http://www.flickr.com/people/79940777@N04/), on Flickr
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8116710881_e2e3da27fe_n.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79940777@N04/8116710881/)
Front Clean (http://www.flickr.com/photos/79940777@N04/8116710881/) by frpedals (http://www.flickr.com/people/79940777@N04/), on Flickr
Any pointers would be muccchhh appreciated, i'm still learning.
Cheers.
looking good, tip: avoid shaded images... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 24, 2012, 11:55:07 AM
looking good, tip: avoid shaded images... ;)
Cheers man. I actually am glad it was a slightly messy shady design, gave me a little room to move if i effed up the etch.
How do you go about shaded images - I've got the idea for the design of a pedal I'm making and it's got some shading, but I can't get rid of it without the image being messed up:
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/MartynJones/pedal.jpg)
When i etch a pedal i tend to use Inkscape to create the design, in this program you can import an image and then trace it, creating a outline in vector format allowing you to resize to any size!
Guides:
http://inkscape.org/doc/tracing/tutorial-tracing.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFQ8Y386DWo
Works a treat for me:) my latest ADA FLanger DEsign:
(http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/craigmillard/ADAflanger.png)
That looks like an awesome program craig! I have to have a look at that next etch!!
THANKS!
Thanks for that - I have illustrator but I'm crap at it - I'm amazingly good on photoshop (qualified) but absolutely nasty on vector lol
I'll download inkscape and have a play at home
Thanks again
My first attempt at etching and enclosure...
(http://www.stallibrass.com/images/stomp.jpg)
Wow, that's a very clean etch! How exactly did you do it?
^^ I dont know why but I now have the overwhelming urge to go buy a zippo and etch it. :D
Quote from: roseblood11 on October 27, 2012, 03:18:42 PM
Wow, that's a very clean etch! How exactly did you do it?
Thanks.
The image was a vector path which I cut out on self adhesive vinyl. I stuck the vinyl on the box and manually applied ferric chloride with a little brush. When the solution stopped bubbling, I wiped it off and applied more. The whole thing took a couple of hours. Where the etching happened, a dull Matt grey deposit was left. I scrubbed this away with a stiff brush and then polished the face of the box.
Finally, I read more posts and found there are faster and probably better ways of doing this....
I was looking at cut vinyl for a while, machines are too pricey and couldn't find a cheap place to do one off's.
Here is a business idea for someone - upload your graphics and get a cut vinyl sticker by mail. I did look for that online, but the services tended to be multicolour stickers. Anyone know of any place that offers such a service.
The picture that got me thinking of using a vinyl sticker was here...
http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?2786-Aluminum-Electro-etch! (http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/showthread.php?2786-Aluminum-Electro-etch!)
He used copper sulphate (available as "root kill" in hardware stores), table salt and sodium bisulphate (available as 'pH reducer" in swimming pool supplies shops) to etch. Safer than ferric chloride from what I have read.
Andrew.
Here is a business idea for someone....
Hmmm. I did think of this a while back but thought that there would be little call for it & while I could set up a web service to upload the images etc, each one would probably need a lot of work doing to it to create the vector outlines. In turn, this would lead to me take some creative control which would doubtless end up creating disappointment. Anyway, the artwork would have to be suitable for this kind of process (blocks of text or patterns etc.) not the amazing images I'm seeing on these pages.
Have you considered approaching a local sign shop? They cut vinyl all day and if you can supply them the data as a vector path it would be a very simple job for them.
I figured that companies that cut vinyl for signs usually cut much larger fonts and graphics than what would be required for a pedal. I think when I looked at the minimum font size that the sign companies cut on their machines, it was too big for a stompbox. It has been a while since I looked so maybe I remember it wrong.
Andrew.
I have a guy that cuts vinyl for me and I've etched a few boxes with that method. Its a pretty effective method.
I did this one about a 2 months ago I freakin love it. Yeah the japanese was google translator.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/FilterSamleHold017copy.jpg)
The etch was a little off center.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/MaestroFSH.png)
Reminds me of a Japanese movie poster.
^^Very nice :)
@stallik - that stomp-etch is amazing!
Heres my latest etches:
EA tremolo
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T4EMKInh3Ls/UIJVTRCYyII/AAAAAAAACc4/AmlQkyavPzQ/s1600/HowSoonIsNow%3f1.jpg)
Baja Trembulator
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WuxUjmkgVLU/UIJU_Wg2kuI/AAAAAAAACcY/1v-keag5uns/s1600/Trembulator1.jpg)
Repeat Percussion Tremolo
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YwqsIzkQnIM/UHfAcrihXJI/AAAAAAAACbQ/S-mu0NP4stA/s1600/RPT%222.jpg)
Tremulus Lune
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kuxQY3vABJM/UGXSZsDPs9I/AAAAAAAACZI/he7ebUDLVRA/s1600/LunaTrem%2322.jpg)
DBA Fuzz War
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QUhxYKfiwBk/UGXRtWIOVGI/AAAAAAAACYY/4nXxyM1MrMg/s1600/RawStuff1.jpg)
Quote from: rocinante on October 25, 2012, 03:30:26 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 24, 2012, 11:55:07 AM
looking good, tip: avoid shaded images... ;)
Cheers man. I actually am glad it was a slightly messy shady design, gave me a little room to move if i effed up the etch.
Do not avoid shading - just practice! I love shading on etched boxes.
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/296436_524709554212465_7287728_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428390_480944968588924_1148587170_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/305080_531267866889967_542886842_n.jpg)
one more etch from me. (http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/62014_282670031849823_979970502_n.jpg)
Brilliant, well done sir.
Quote from: stallik on October 27, 2012, 01:32:45 PM
My first attempt at etching and enclosure...
(http://www.stallibrass.com/images/stomp.jpg)
So this is how it turned out:
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a103/MartynJones/IMG_0945.jpg)
Not quite done with it yet - there's still sanding spots (that I noticed when looking at the pic lol) And the B in Boost filled in when I etched but I left it like that and the guy I'm doing it for doesn't mind.
Quote from: dromilious on October 28, 2012, 05:55:52 PM
one more etch from me. (http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/62014_282670031849823_979970502_n.jpg)
Wow, where´s the pic from?
thank you Maik.I dont remember but i will search and tell you.
my latest spitfire v3 for my grandsons xmas prezzie...(batman fan) ::)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P141112_23.29.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P141112_23.29%5B01%5D.jpg)
^^^ Nice, now you just need to build him a bat shaped guitar and he'll be all set. :D
cheers pyro: i got him a squier H S S (which is surprisingly nice actually for £90.00 new) , but his aunt is getting him a batman strap... ;D
A work in progress, I used press n peel for the resist. I etched with copper sulphate and table salt and a bit of sodium bisulphate. Did an electro etch with a current limited low voltage power supply I cobbled together (a ikea halogen power supply (12V) rectified and current limited with a halogen bulb). The set up ran about 2 amps through the solution for ten minutes. Not as clean as I would have liked - the sharpie I used to touch up the toner transfer didn't work very well.
Andrew.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30050282/crab%20shell%203.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30050282/crab%20shell%204.jpg)
Quote from: nicofx on October 28, 2012, 05:43:02 AM
These are amazing. How you did that? Is it something like negative etching? You etch whole surface but all letters and graphics are masked?
Repeat Percussion Tremolo
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YwqsIzkQnIM/UHfAcrihXJI/AAAAAAAACbQ/S-mu0NP4stA/s1600/RPT%222.jpg)
Tremulus Lune
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kuxQY3vABJM/UGXSZsDPs9I/AAAAAAAACZI/he7ebUDLVRA/s1600/LunaTrem%2322.jpg)
DBA Fuzz War
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QUhxYKfiwBk/UGXRtWIOVGI/AAAAAAAACYY/4nXxyM1MrMg/s1600/RawStuff1.jpg)
Hiya! First post on the forum, seeing all the great etching results here this seemed like a good place for some info.
First time trying my hand at etching a pedal enclosure and I'm going the cut-out vinyl route. The photo-paper + laser print so far has not given me workable mask. I'm thinking of applying the stickers, spray painting the pedal, peel off the stickers and etch away. Would the spraypaint work well enough as a mask and if I use color, would the etchant somehow screw with said color (thinking maybe green, the pedal being a tubescreamer and all...). The etchant I'll be using is ferric chloride.
Or maybe stick the vinyl on and then etch away, no paint needed, would that work?
I'm thinking of using this "stencil" approach because it seems to me it'll be easier to get a very clean mask, the pedal is a christmas gift for the gf so I want it as close to perfect looking as I can get it :P
And on pretty much every pedal i've seen in this thread: wow.
EDIT: I only just now saw that this pictures thread is in the pictures forum (who would've thought) meaning this probably really isn't the right place for my questions. My apologies, though any insights would still be greatly appreciated :)
You can just stick on the vinyl and etch away (see my post earlier this page) but your suggestion of using the vinyl as a mask for painting, then etching gives me ideas. Thinking of multiple masks/etches....
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_12.32.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_12.34%5B01%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_11.53%5B03%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_11.52.jpg)
@ Stallik, thanks for your reply, I guess I'll stick with just the ninyl then, seems like less of a hassle. Now the hardest part, creating more designs and picking the best one...
Nice that the spraypaint vinyl stencil thing gave you some ideas. I wanted to use spraypaint because I read it would make a robuster mask than toner, the vinyl just seemed like a good idea to have a stencil that actually stays in place properly...
You're welcome @tillinghast. If you are stuck for design ideas take a look at deadastronuat's work on this and the previous page. His Batman design is simple, elegant & effective. Nicest looking box I've seen in a long time. Shows what can be done by not over complicating things
@tillinghast : as stallick says, try a basic design first, even just do a practice (design) on the base plate, and see how that comes out before trying the top...
its all in the preparation when etching. any questions just ask ok, theres plenty of people who do great etches on here!! ;) 8)
@stallick: thanks man!. 8)
Rob, those are outstanding as usual!
I figured I'd put this up because it's been a while since I posted anything in here. It's an echo base delay in a 1590b enclosure.
(http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/pakrat70/SEVENLEAF%20EFFECTS/Echo%20Base%20Mini/DSC02977.jpg)
(http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/pakrat70/SEVENLEAF%20EFFECTS/Echo%20Base%20Mini/DSC02988.jpg)
(http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/pakrat70/SEVENLEAF%20EFFECTS/Echo%20Base%20Mini/DSC02983.jpg)
I love thrall blue inside, have been trying to get all blue caps, where are you getting yours, I keep getting sent the odd red one.
Stunning etch too btw. And enclosure stuffing. Nice
Thanks snarblinge :icon_biggrin: The caps came from mouser.
Quote from: pakrat on November 30, 2012, 01:05:47 AM
(http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/pakrat70/SEVENLEAF%20EFFECTS/Echo%20Base%20Mini/DSC02977.jpg)
Wow, great! How did you apply the black color? It looks very clean.
Made a quick mock-up with some cut out vinyl and a sharpie. Now I'm in doubt about the design, I like it, but something doesn't quite sit right to me, considering making a more "standard" design for it... Any thoughts anyone?
(http://www.nerdcore138.com/dump/screamer_1.jpg)
(http://www.nerdcore138.com/dump/screamer_2.jpg)
(http://www.nerdcore138.com/dump/screamer_3.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 28, 2012, 07:49:22 AM
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_12.32.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_12.34%5B01%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_11.53%5B03%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P281112_11.52.jpg)
These etches are outstanding. Very impressed with the layouts and execution.
Quote from: pakrat on November 30, 2012, 01:05:47 AM
Rob, those are outstanding as usual!
I figured I'd put this up because it's been a while since I posted anything in here. It's an echo base delay in a 1590b enclosure.
(http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/pakrat70/SEVENLEAF%20EFFECTS/Echo%20Base%20Mini/DSC02977.jpg)
(http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/pakrat70/SEVENLEAF%20EFFECTS/Echo%20Base%20Mini/DSC02988.jpg)
(http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w375/pakrat70/SEVENLEAF%20EFFECTS/Echo%20Base%20Mini/DSC02983.jpg)
Amazing that you were able to fit a that in a 1590b. Great job.
Thanks for the kind words guys. The way to do the black and blue is to etch as usual, paint black and sand clean. Then I painted over everything with Tamiya clear blue paint. The tamiya paint is really nice, it takes to sanding very well and seems durable. Only time will tell......
Here's a PT2399 delay I did last weekend. Next time I'm gonna do the sky in light blue. Below are some fuzz boxes I did.
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg131/andy05318/1354412962557.jpg)
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg131/andy05318/1354195950130.jpg)
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg131/andy05318/1353806740187.jpg)
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg131/andy05318/1354195868228.jpg)
Quote from: escapeplan on December 06, 2012, 03:05:20 PM
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg131/andy05318/1354195950130.jpg)
What a great pedal name. Love the knob colors, too.
This was my first etch, and I'm hooked. Many thanks to Slade for his great tutorial. Overall it went pretty well, especially since I tried a reverse etch first. My only problem was that I tried to use the HP premium photo paper sitting unused on my shelf, rather than buying dollar store photo paper. Man, was that a bad idea. Or maybe the iron was too hot. I don't know. When I ironed it, a layer of the HP photo paper melted onto the enclosure and the paper separated when I tried to peel it off. I had to spend 20 minutes soaking it in warm water and carefully rubbing to get the mess off. It screwed up the toner a little, but not catastrophically. Anyway, next time... cheap photo paper and lower iron temp.
It's a Hearthrob Tremolo with a white LED wired to flash at the trem rate.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48367&g2_serialNumber=1)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48376&g2_serialNumber=1)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48373&g2_serialNumber=1)
Quote from: thelonious on December 07, 2012, 09:31:58 PM
*Heartthrob Tremolo*
Wow, this looks incredible. I love the green. Nice job, man.
^ cool, nice first etch man, nice green too. :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 08, 2012, 04:56:53 AM
^ cool, nice first etch man, nice green too. :icon_cool:
This. Love the green. Great artwork. Very nice build.
Thanks all!
BTW, could I get away with not using primer next time? Would I just have to find the right kind of paint? You can see the primer showing through a bit in the pics, which is interesting, but not necessarily a better look than straight green against bare metal, you know?
Here's one I got a kick out of doing for a custom request recently. He wanted a mammoth circuit put in an enclosure with a pic of the "Grumpy Cat". I'm pretty happy with the results, even tho I'm not really a cat person, lol. Here's the result...
(http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg131/andy05318/A_VZEF3CQAAcxjMjpglarge_zpsd0996f93.jpg)
So I haven't been etching in awhile and decided to do one. I'm not thrilled with how it turned out. I've noticed a few times actually that when using Ferric Chloride, I don't get the right amount of depth on my etches. The conditions have to be almost perfect every time.
So I have a question. What would be a better method of getting a deeper etch and less superficial one?
Like I said, some turn out perfect, but I want more to turn out perfect.
Medusa Fuzz
A PNP Ge Fuzz ,(has a voltage inverter on the back of the board) Second stomp activates a clean blend mixed in with the middle knob.
Has a tri-color led. Red for on, which changes to blue with the blend activated. I used a dual gang pot for the blend, as the knob is turned the led changes from blue to green at fully cw.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/blue-1_zps9f1c4980.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0167_zpse81ed2a8.jpg)
Maestro Filter, Sample & Hold.
...took me four builds to get one to work. Great fun to play with though!
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0139.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0144.jpg)
Distortion +
Added a switch for some asymetric clipping options.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0122.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0128.jpg)
BYOC Phaser Royal
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0092.jpg)
Ninja has light-up eyes. ;D
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0042.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0066.jpg)
Quote from: jwar on December 31, 2012, 07:02:12 PM
So I haven't been etching in awhile and decided to do one. I'm not thrilled with how it turned out. I've noticed a few times actually that when using Ferric Chloride, I don't get the right amount of depth on my etches. The conditions have to be almost perfect every time.
So I have a question. What would be a better method of getting a deeper etch and less superficial one?
Like I said, some turn out perfect, but I want more to turn out perfect.
keeping the ferric warm will help. especially at this time of year...(strong solution too)
etch, remove from ferric, run under tap , use a toothbrush to rub off dead metal, then put back in ferric, ...
Hello ! have a happy new year!I made a fuzz for my wife's brother .His band is Revolted Masses so i made an etch especially for him !
(http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/64568_314527585330734_813323128_n.jpg)
Quote from: .Mike on August 24, 2011, 08:06:44 PM
Am I the only one working on etched enclosures this week? Heh...! :D
Here's the paint for my Category 3 Booster:
(http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/1782/cat3boosterpaint2.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/822/cat3boosterpaint2.jpg/) (http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/8055/cat3boosterpaint1.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/cat3boosterpaint1.jpg/)
I did all the detail work first, and sprayed the big area last. The main fill area is Rustoleum spray enamel, and the rest is Testors enamel that I mixed into varying shades, and then dabbed on with a brush. There actually is a pattern to the order of the border colors, but you'll never figure it out. $5 donation to DIYSB in the name of the first person who does. :P
So yeah, this is a tad late... And no, I haven't read through every page yet to see if anyone has already guessed it. Border colors = Dr. Who
Great design BTW.
is it?....we never did find out.. :)
LIGHTWAH. for one of our american cousins.. ;)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P230113_15.59.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P230113_16.01.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P230113_15.59%5B01%5D.jpg)
Dead Astronaut, that is utterly fantastic. Brilliant.
That Light Wah looks terrific!
Quote from: pickdropper on January 23, 2013, 03:02:58 PM
Dead Astronaut, that is utterly fantastic. Brilliant.
They sound wicked too!
Nice one Rob. 8)
My last etched boxes:
guitarPCB's hot chilicon Tonebender:
(http://i48.tinypic.com/4qj31u.jpg)
(http://i48.tinypic.com/15ot7v8.jpg)
AB/Y box:
(http://i50.tinypic.com/x1k3k2.jpg)
Devi ever's Sodameiser:
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2s19biw.jpg)
Devi ever's Torn's peaker/Aenima: (I tried to make a distressed look because the etch wasn't that great...I guess I went a little too far!!!)
(http://i49.tinypic.com/o0z13d.jpg)
(http://i46.tinypic.com/al5hqf.jpg)
The Coke can etch is great! ;)
Thanks John!
The painting of this one wasn't a piece of cake.
I have to thank Deadastronaut , Gritz and Jdantsi for their advice. :)
Hello men out there! So good stompboxes i see above!One from me.TAZ drive
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/424459_321539737962852_2133829268_n.jpg)
cheers guys...wow everyone has had an etch spurt on... :)
@poppyman: that coke one came out great...very cool thats my fav.... 8)
@drimilous: excellent details....superb etch...nice. 8)
@ Dead Astronaut Yet another beautifull build - inspirational as always
I finally got a half decent enclosure etch. I had the pattern cut out of vinyl then i stuck it to the enclosure and etched away.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08260_zpsb6eb6185.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08259_zpse9ebfea6.jpg)
@kevin: cheers man.. 8)
@mke, came out nice man, metal pedal?.. ;)...
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 28, 2013, 04:44:15 AM
@kevin: cheers man.. 8)
@mke, came out nice man, metal pedal?.. ;)...
Thanks :) I'm not sure yet. I started to put one of my Turkeyday shootout modulation junkie builds in it, but now that you say that i may put a Dr. Boogie. Maybe slant cut it long ways
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on January 28, 2013, 09:26:31 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 28, 2013, 04:44:15 AM
@kevin: cheers man.. 8)
@mke, came out nice man, metal pedal?.. ;)...
Dr. Boogie. Maybe slant cut it long ways
brave man... :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 28, 2013, 09:29:01 AM
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on January 28, 2013, 09:26:31 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 28, 2013, 04:44:15 AM
@kevin: cheers man.. 8)
@mke, came out nice man, metal pedal?.. ;)...
Dr. Boogie. Maybe slant cut it long ways
brave man... :)
No this is brave. I havent sat down to finish it yet but all it needs is the final assembly. It's a harmonic percolator in a slant cut 1590A.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08238_zpse277fa87.jpg)
thats just being a masochist.... ;D
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on January 28, 2013, 03:06:36 AM
I finally got a half decent enclosure etch. I had the pattern cut out of vinyl then i stuck it to the enclosure and etched away.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08260_zpsb6eb6185.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08259_zpse9ebfea6.jpg)
Nice!!! :D
^Cool texture!
Stag Beetle (Prosopocoilus bison cinctus)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0336.jpg)
@guitarmaggedon:
cool, i love that. came out great... 8)
@guitarmaggedon
Very entomological and well done! Does the shading happen automatically due to the height and depth of the image, or do you vary the amount of paint?
Thanks Gents!
It's part of the etch. It's a dot matrix.
Ooh nice! ;D
Dallas Rangemaster on vero, switchable input caps (using a 10-way mini-rotary switch I bought from Joe Gagan), and OC44. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/04/a5abyvur.jpg)
I didn't personally do the etching, but it is a nice design. A fellow from the madbean forums etched it.
gorgeous result! kudos to the guy who etched it.
Quote from: ch1naski on February 03, 2013, 11:43:55 PM
I didn't personally do the etching, but it is a nice design. A fellow from the madbean forums etched it.
I know who etched it- It was me! :icon_lol:
That enclosure has been globe-trotting for about a year now.
... and I'll take a secondhand compliament too, thanks Joe. :icon_biggrin:
^ kudos kudos kudos...
nice n swirly... 8)
^ codtone
now, that's a name.
Quote from: guitarmageddon on February 04, 2013, 02:07:53 AM
Quote from: ch1naski on February 03, 2013, 11:43:55 PM
I didn't personally do the etching, but it is a nice design. A fellow from the madbean forums etched it.
I know who etched it- It was me! :icon_lol:
That enclosure has been globe-trotting for about a year now.
... and I'll take a secondhand compliament too, thanks Joe. :icon_biggrin:
It's inspiring me to etch my own. Great job
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/NewEtches2_zpse4e8eb96.jpg)
^ cool...
More practice etching.. one off Beavis Board w/ relay switching.
I took the idea for the graphic from a bottle of red wine. I think wine labels are great for inspiration for stompbox art - they are about the same size and have some great graphics and fonts.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30050282/motorcycle.jpg)
Andrew.
Quote from: electrosonic on February 05, 2013, 01:16:42 PM
More practice etching.. one off Beavis Board w/ relay switching.
I took the idea for the graphic from a bottle of red wine. I think wine labels are great for inspiration for stompbox art - they are about the same size and have some great graphics and fonts.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30050282/motorcycle.jpg)
Andrew.
Wine......inspiring musicians in so many ways.;D
http://youtu.be/HiG3W2rzdbE (http://youtu.be/HiG3W2rzdbE)
Added moar flare.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/be9u8ezy.jpg)
My first etch.....by no means perfect. Used PnP blue on a brother laser printer and etched in muriatic acid and peroxide. Prep work could have been better but damn the sanding is work!
GGG BMP with mid control and feedback loop with 1M light resistor (next to the LED)
Quote from: Boobslappy on February 09, 2013, 02:20:14 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/be9u8ezy.jpg)
My first etch.....by no means perfect. Used PnP blue on a brother laser printer and etched in muriatic acid and peroxide. Prep work could have been better but damn the sanding is work!
GGG BMP with mid control and feedback loop with 1M light resistor (next to the LED)
looks....um.....nice! (Not the words my fiance used, tho ;D )
Hey,
I'm just building my first pedal and want to try etching the enclosure after seeing the results on this forum, rather than go down the waterslide/decal route.
I have a question, has anyone here tried using Caustic Soda/Lye/NaOH as opposed to Ferric Chloride? I've read that the etch can come out cleaner but from watching some aluminium vs. caustic soda vids on YouTube it looks like a lot more of a violent reaction with some pretty dangerous fumes so don't want to approach it half-heartedly! :icon_eek:
Any pointers would be greatly appreciated! :icon_smile:
Cheers
Haven't tried caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) for etching, but I've used it working in a lab. Getting a drop on your skin is just as painful as acid. As you noted, use extreme caution. Wear eye protection AND a face shield. Also wear gloves and long sleeves. Expect holes in your clothing if you even get the smallest droplets on them. Have a source of running water close by in the event that you need to flush your eyes or skin.
I've played in that sand box - accidentally. I was using potassium hydroxide (more reactive than sodium hydroxide, but very similar) drain cleaner to remove the resist from a box I etched (these were part of my experiments in photo etching). Unsure of the concentration of the potassium hydroxide, I just dipped the box in (big mistake). After a few seconds there were intense fumes, a good bit of heat, and a box that was quite scared by the event (I was not prepared for this - big mistake #2). So yes, it will etch, and it is a serious reaction. If I were to do this again I would massively mix down the concentration of the potassium hydroxide. In addition to Jdansti's suggestions, I'd advise a way of providing good ventilation/fume removal and/or use of a breathing mask.
Thanks for the replies chaps,
I'm intending to use a pipette to apply the NaOH to the unmasked areas as opposed to dipping so hopefully that will reduce the inherent risks involved. The guide I am following says to pipette on, leave for 2-5mins, wipe it off, rinse with water then repeat the procedure until desired result is achieved. I will be sure to wear glasses, gloves etc as it sounds like potentially painful stuff!
I think I will follow the usage instructions in terms of mixing/concentration and try an area on the rear panel to see how it goes, if it all gets a bit crazy I can then reduce the concentration if need be.
I haven't got all the materials to do it yet but I will post my results on here once I'm done, hopefully with most of my limbs still intact! :icon_wink:
^ looking forward to your results...
TAKE CARE THOUGH!!! :icon_eek:
Good idea to use small quantities incrementally. Just beware that diluting with water will generate heat, so do this slowly.
Remember if diluting acid, add acid to water not the other way around.
http://antoine.frostburg.edu/chem/senese/101/safety/faq/always-add-acid.shtml (http://antoine.frostburg.edu/chem/senese/101/safety/faq/always-add-acid.shtml)
I don't know why electro etching with copper sulfate isn't more popular, it is much safer.
"Pinocchio Theory" my first reverse etch.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/byocpinocchiotheory019.jpg)(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/byocpinocchiotheory024.jpg)
A nice simple Devi ever build,
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/aenimalight014_zpsb7d436f0.jpg)(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/aenimalight009_zps6f2f3f2d.jpg)(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/aenimalight011_zps9ea09053.jpg)
''ohhhhhhhhhhhh my god, its a FLYING SAUCER'' :icon_eek:...........(theremin sounds)>.....whooohoooooeeeeeeooooooohhhoooooowweeeeeehooooo......
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P280213_14.06%5B01%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P280213_14.05%5B01%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P280213_14.03.jpg)
reverb.
Middle led is white (always on)
Outer leds blue on/off
text could have done with being larger to get a better etch....but hey this is mine anyway....love it. :icon_cool:
NaOH (caustic soda) is my first choice. The etched areas is a lot smoother than with acid.
Quote from: Hexjibber on February 13, 2013, 12:28:15 PM
I'm intending to use a pipette to apply the NaOH to the unmasked areas as opposed to dipping so hopefully that will reduce the inherent risks involved. The guide I am following says to pipette on, leave for 2-5mins, wipe it off, rinse with water then repeat the procedure until desired result is achieved. I will be sure to wear glasses, gloves etc as it sounds like potentially painful stuff!
That's exactly how I do it. Works very well, but I need to find a more alkali resistant paint for touch ups.
Example:
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6598/tumblrm280ghgcyt1rn2rxy.jpg)
That compressor looks almost like surgical equipment, in a good way ;D
+1 pettol, that is very clean..nice!. 8)
Quote from: Pettol on February 28, 2013, 11:44:40 AM
NaOH (caustic soda) is my first choice. The etched areas is a lot smoother than with acid.
Quote from: Hexjibber on February 13, 2013, 12:28:15 PM
I'm intending to use a pipette to apply the NaOH to the unmasked areas as opposed to dipping so hopefully that will reduce the inherent risks involved. The guide I am following says to pipette on, leave for 2-5mins, wipe it off, rinse with water then repeat the procedure until desired result is achieved. I will be sure to wear glasses, gloves etc as it sounds like potentially painful stuff!
That's exactly how I do it. Works very well, but I need to find a more alkali resistant paint for touch ups.
Example:
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6598/tumblrm280ghgcyt1rn2rxy.jpg)
That's just ace. Wicked etch, and the knobs really complement the design. Also like the footswitch as low in the box as possible, I do the same wherever I can!
Thanks a lot guys!
Excellent etch! What concentration of NaOH are you using? Or have you found it to be fairly insensitive?
Thanks. I've used a 17 % (w/w) solution. No reason for that specific concentration - was about to discard it in the lab. A bit lower would probably work great too.
Hi guys,
Just trying to get going with etching and tried using glossy magazine paper but after four attempts and a lot of swearing I've conceded defeat! I've sanded the enclosure from 400-2000 grit paper so looks nice and smooth but the toner is just not sticking to the enclosure properly, it's smudged and weird looking, any ideas?
Has anyone got any other suggestions or am I probably better off just going with Press N Peel as it does seem to produce consistent results?
Cheers!
Graham
Quote from: Hexjibber on March 01, 2013, 04:56:53 PM
Hi guys,
Just trying to get going with etching and tried using glossy magazine paper but after four attempts and a lot of swearing I've conceded defeat! I've sanded the enclosure from 400-2000 grit paper so looks nice and smooth but the toner is just not sticking to the enclosure properly, it's smudged and weird looking, any ideas?
Has anyone got any other suggestions or am I probably better off just going with Press N Peel as it does seem to produce consistent results?
Cheers!
Graham
Hi Graham,
Are you pressing down hard with the iron? If you've not come across it already, have a look at Slade's tutorial as it is very useful. I use PnP with consistent results, but have used glossy paper without issue before, and a load of guys on here do it that way. Make sure you're patient when waiting for the toner to transfer. Some images can take a little while to get onto the box.
Don't give up on it though whatever you do, some of the best boxes on this forum are etched :) Good luck!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/Flesheater2_zps624aeae9.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/YYSmall_zpsf07beaf1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/Owl-1Small_zpsb38542a3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/DemonSmall_zps3375ccca.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/Troublestarter/BuzzSmall_zps022f828c.jpg)
^ Sweet! Nice one dude! ^
@arcane : love the top one best, but all very cool.. :icon_cool:
@hex: try sanding with 180 grit paper...then ironing..
then use finer paper...
Mini Si/Ge Fuzz Face, PNP with voltage inverter.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0498_zps960db3c0.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0517_zpsfc48a772.jpg)
Shoot the Moon Trem, switch for square/sine wave.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0493_zps94871469.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0486_zpsb6bf047a.jpg)
Ok, this is million miles away from the superb slick and detailed work of the lastest posts but I wanted to give a go to an alternative technique.
I can get pretty frustrated with p'n'p blue transfers so I wanted to try a basic spray paint stencil + etch finish.
It's a bit random and kinda "blurry" but I kinda like the "rusty garden table" look.
Valvecaster (with input cap switch and faux-glow trick) and Red Llama.
(http://www.hostingpicture.fr/upload/c8ccc9e64b6efe62f344b89f1ba9a6b4.jpg)
Quote from: poppyman on March 03, 2013, 08:25:54 PM
(http://www.hostingpicture.fr/upload/c8ccc9e64b6efe62f344b89f1ba9a6b4.jpg)
Nice!
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 02, 2013, 04:51:42 AM
@hex: try sanding with 180 grit paper...then ironing..
then use finer paper...
Thanks man, I'll give that a go, I've also got some glossy photo paper which I'm going to try so I can follow Slade's tutorial a bit closer, will post results if I succeed! :)
^ cool, with glossy paper, peel it off when its just cooling down...most of the time it will come off in one piece and leave no fibres/residue...
nail varnish any missing spots, look under a lamp for any shiny bits..... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 04, 2013, 05:41:36 AM
^ cool, with glossy paper, peel it off when its just cooling down...most of the time it will come off in one piece and leave no fibres/residue...
nail varnish any missing spots, look under a lamp for any shiny bits..... ;)
Nice one, will do!
Quote from: poppyman on March 03, 2013, 08:25:54 PM
(http://www.hostingpicture.fr/upload/c8ccc9e64b6efe62f344b89f1ba9a6b4.jpg)
Love these! Really like the colours and the etch on the side.
Wow! Some beautiful etches!
I need to ask , earlier I read you guys said you where using Sodium Hydroxide. I believe thats the main chemical in MG chemicals Positive developer. I have some of that left from when I was etching using the photo method. Think I can use it to etch a box ? Gonna give it a try soon unless you guys know why I shouldn't.
So about a year or more ago I built a big muff on vero, the creamy dreamer version. It's pretty cool but just something I wouldn't use often cause its so thick and heavy. When I first built it I finished it with waterslide decals on bare aluminum that was sanded and sprayed with a can of cheap clear coat. It fogged up pretty bad after a few weeks. And Its just sat there unused ever since.
So I decided to redo the box last week and sanded and buffed it all down and just tried my first etch!
I used laser printer for the mask and some FeCl to etch. I just dabbed on with a q-tip and cleaned re-applied off and on for a few hours. here's what I got.
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0465_zps73fbae7b.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0461_zps0ece0620.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0470_zps61c89094.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0471_zps237fd96f.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0472_zps9933ed74.jpg)
Sanded down the high bright blue led, Now it doesn't make me see purple dots while I play !
I put it up on ebay cause I need to fund some other pedals. But was really fun as my first etch!
looks cool jim...good idea on the led..ive done that a few times too...saves the retina's... :icon_eek: :icon_cool: ;D
Hi chaps,
Just thought I would share my results using Sodium Hydroxide/Caustic Soda/NaOH as some of you were interested. I used this stuff: http://www.brandrefill.co.uk/homecare-caustic-soda-500g-500g/
Managed to get a successful mask using glossy photo paper, thanks to Dead Astronaut and Slade for the tips! I began using an approx. 20% solution which I pipetted on and rinsed off after 5 mins, I did this 7 or 8 times increasing the solution each time until it was about 40%, not sure if increasing the strength was actually necessary but was just experimenting really.
The test etch I did on the rear panel seemed to come out cleaner, I suspect this was mainly due to the fact I spent more time sanding it than I did with the top of the enclosure. Also I slightly smudged the mask during the transfer process on the top, fortunately though this actually turned out ok as I think the design looks cool with a slightly gnarled look to it! The design is from my favourite film, Dead Man's Shoes. Next I plan to paint the etch black, sand, then spray the enclosure with translucent red paint. Should I clear coat afterwards do you think?
Meanwhile;
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/7241895603c65099ee2c4d86792aae29/tumblr_mj9c94jQsK1s7epwwo1_400.jpg)
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/83fbb3f44ac9fb57e55a3ec9df3a5be9/tumblr_mj8hkzN9Ng1s7epwwo1_400.jpg)
Pipette....never heard of that.
Is it one of these?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/08/ypy8a5eg.jpg)
Quote from: ch1naski on March 08, 2013, 12:24:58 AM
Pipette....never heard of that.
Is it one of these?
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/08/ypy8a5eg.jpg)
It's one of these;
(http://www.pfstar.com/assets/images/1081607.jpg)
@hex: came out cool....looks great. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 08, 2013, 05:22:38 AM
@hex: came out cool....looks great. 8)
Cheers man! I'm pretty pleased with it for a first go, will post another pic once I've finished it. I'm just about to start my second etch, the design is a lot more intricate though, hopefully it will work!
So...how does one apply etchant using the pipette method?
Just apply droplets on the area you want to etch. The surface tension will keep them in place. Sort of.
Quote from: Pettol on March 08, 2013, 11:28:20 AM
Just apply droplets on the area you want to etch. The surface tension will keep them in place. Sort of.
+1
If you are going to etch by limiting the solution to a small area you can simply use a sponge or a brush. Both work better than a dropper as you can work the etchant into the area and remove the waste material.
You guys are making it sound too easy...:)
Finally got a couple of free hours this morning and botched two transfers. Got distracted (twice!) and overheated both transfers. Damn.
Andrew.
Colorsound overdriver
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/09/4usy7eha.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/09/eqaby5eb.jpg)
Well, that's it. I'm going for it. How do you suggest protecting the sides of the enclosure?
Just paint the enclosure black and after it is dry use the sand paper to clean the top for the toner transfer.
I made a walkthrough here
http://www.newtone-online.nl/forum/index.php/topic,6599.msg50736.html#msg50736
It is in Dutch, but follow the pictures and you will get the idea.
What, you think I can't read Dutch? I was just in Solvang a couple months ago.....;)
I cannot believe people use paint to protect the enclosure. Just use masking or painters tape and save youself a pile of work and grief. Why would you want to do all of that extra work?
Quote from: Arcane Analog on March 08, 2013, 08:02:52 PM
I cannot believe people use paint to protect the enclosure. Just use masking or painters tape and save youself a pile of work and grief. Why would you want to do all of that extra work?
Painting is probably easier. At least to me, but I would do both and not paint the top of the enclosure and mask the top off. But usually I let the sides burn, as well. Sometimes I paint the inside of the enclosure or use painters tape.
How can painting be easier when you have to spray, dry and then sand it off? With tape ypu put it on and pell it of. Zero wait time and zero sanding.
Yeah, actually I agree with you, especially if youre just masking the sides. Sometimes I paint the inside of the box because I usually let the sides burn so there's always some acid that will burn in the enclosure which I try to avoid. But I think my aversion to tape is that when I dont paint inside the enclosure I use painters tape and it always takes so many strips to seal it off. This would easily be remedied by buying wider tape.
I use the green painters tape and it only takes one strip to do the whole side of a 125B. It folds over to protect the inside from splashes or the like as well.
I have lots of tape. Not much paint. Seeing as how i have ferric chloride, I'm rolling with that too. I'll do a practice run on my "rock it before you box it" box. I REALLY need to get some laser toner in my old printer....
+1 on tape...
i use electrical pvc tape around the top edge, then cover with masking tape all around to the base and fold in...
the electrical tape makes a good resist, plus doesn't leave residue and comes off nicely...sod painting the sides , then having to sand it all again...
my prep for boxes.,
sand top only, coarse grade 180, ...iron, nail varnish edges, tape, etch, remove tape, now sand edges 180, then top and sides 400-600 grade,
masking tape sides..spray black(colour) on top..dry, sand top (remove excess paint) with 'used' 400-600 grade....drill....final buff , clean.... then clearcoat...job done. :)
I usually use stikky-backed plastic, like for covering school books. seeing as I don't have a laser printer, I usually have to cut my mask, through the sticky back, with an exacto knife. what a bastard. and I've got two of them to do now.
kupervaser, pardon my saying, but I like how you've made (such) a crappy finish look (so) good.
Well I just tested Etching with Sodium Hydroxide...
I used MG Chemicals Positive Developer which is a pre mix of sodium hydroxide and deionized water. I don't know the ratio. But I figured I would give it a try. It worked well.
I poured a small amount into a paper dixie cup and applied some to the enclosure after I masked it ( I used blue painters tape on the sides and some sharpie marker around the edges.
Turns out that stuff eats through paper pretty fast. about a minute or 2 after I had applied some and left to wash my hands I came back picked up the cup to put it some place safer with my bare hands and the bottom fell out!
Haha lil splash landed on my right hand nothing major I washed it off. About an hour or 2 later my hand was pretty dry,red,burning. And thats after a lot of water rinse. But ill survive nothing to bad. It might have been from using these old Nitrile gloves for the 100th time they are probably dirty inside and out.
Either way here's my results. I think I can do better Im not protecting the larger masked areas with anything extra and the sodium hydroxide sort of leaked into the paper masking tape. So some things learned and I'm still happy with the results.
When it was first done.
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0479_zps40da8ad5.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0480_zps20c0d82e.jpg)
I reworked it a little with some sand paper and a buffer
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0483_zps96e162f7.jpg)
Drilled and mocked up with components. Forgot to drill the led hole when I took these pics. It is drilled now and has a 3mm orange diffused :) .
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0486_zpse4ec7f83.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0487_zps903aef49.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0489_zpse3dd1137.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0491_zps353292ca.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0493_zpseca5d8c9.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0494_zpsaf5d8c5a.jpg)
Turned out great!
Don't be surprised if you have some tiny holes in your clothing next time you wash them!
FYI- in the future, have some vinegar (acetic acid) on hand to wash your hands if you get some NaOH on you. :)
That is a sweet layout/design, Mustachio.
Very nice!
Another beautiful etch. I really like the metal on metal look.
Thanks guys! :D
John thanks for the tip! I wish i woulda known a few days ago.
Ut oh on the clothes i know some dropped on my shoe , luckily I'm a pretty poor dresser so nothing ruined that matters.
I looked up some new info on gloves ill post later in a diff thread but its great info for working with chemicals.
thanks for the kind words, Any one have any more tips on masking the sides of the box during an etch and what etch-ant your using with your method of masking.
Mustachio, Loved your etch!
Sodium hydroxide is my first choice for etching. Masking is a bit of a problem though. I have had bad experience with tape (the enchant kept getting under it, starting etching areas I didn't even see) and normal paint doesn't work (paint remover is basically sodium hydroxide :-\). I am now evaluating UV curable ink, which appears to be very alkali resistant. Paint for metal roofs may also work, though I haven't tried it.
And, one does not have to sand off the masking paint (appears to be a common opinion). Just put the whole thing in acetone or ethyl acetate for a while. :-)
+1, looks great, even without paint etc....nice n shiney... 8)
never been a fan of those knobs, but they do look cool on this..., ;)..nice.
Nice aluminum knobs would kick it up a notch for sure.
Haha you know I thought the same thing about the knobs but I couldn't find my bag of black Davies. The cream ones didn't look right and the aluminium ones covered the labeling. But these don't look half bad on this, they match the black jacks.
You know the Sodium hydroxide does seem to eat up ink and paper well. My first test was pouring a small amount over a my name I wrote in sharpie marker. It instantly dissolved the marker. And ate away at the aluminium fast. It seems to work faster when submerged then when dabbed on slowly in small amounts.
I think Rob mentioned earlier black electrical tape, gonna have to try that next. Cause plastic seems to be ok , ill test it on the side first and see what it does to the tape on its own. masking tape though is a no go.
Thanks for the ups on the look of the case. I used a high speed makita buffer! I like the metal on metal look no paint. The only problem I'm having with it so far is fitting the pcb in the case. The 0.39u cap I got from tayda is Gigantic, and so far going through my parts the closest I have is a .33u thats small enough. Ill figure it out in the next few days and maybe do a video demo. I been itching to try a Klon style pedal, This is Madbeans Kingslayer self etched from his pdf. Can't wait to try it, I used some black glass diodes from Chromesphere , and 2 diff germanium diodes.
What I was trying to do with this design layout was get both positive and negative etch styles with the text for the pedal name and the controls. The controls being sunk down and the name being embossed up. Was neat and wasn't sure how things would turn out etching with positive developer solution made for developing pre-sensitized pcb's.
I got like 40 aluminum knobs at the moment but the controls labeling is to close for them they get half covered. But black davies might work if I can find the bag I have of them. The more I look at these knobs the more they look like upside down garbage cans! hahaha
Quote from: duck_arse on March 09, 2013, 08:38:51 AM
I usually use stikky-backed plastic, like for covering school books. seeing as I don't have a laser printer, I usually have to cut my mask, through the sticky back, with an exacto knife. what a bastard. and I've got two of them to do now.
kupervaser, pardon my saying, but I like how you've made (such) a crappy finish look (so) good.
Thanks, however I was aiming for something else. The thing is, when I sand the enclosure after painting I also remove the paint form the etched parts, which is not what I want, but I have not been able to avoide this.
Quote from: kupervaser on March 10, 2013, 11:13:52 AM
Quote from: duck_arse on March 09, 2013, 08:38:51 AM
I usually use stikky-backed plastic, like for covering school books. seeing as I don't have a laser printer, I usually have to cut my mask, through the sticky back, with an exacto knife. what a bastard. and I've got two of them to do now.
kupervaser, pardon my saying, but I like how you've made (such) a crappy finish look (so) good.
Thanks, however I was aiming for something else. The thing is, when I sand the enclosure after painting I also remove the paint form the etched parts, which is not what I want, but I have not been able to avoide this.
Are you using a stiff sanding block?
Would running a bead of silicone caulk along the edge of the tape prevent etchant seepage, would it resisit the etchant or would the etchant dissolve it as well?
^ NaOH is compatible with silicone. You can check NaOH's compatability with some other materials here:
http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance
Nice link John!
After spilled a bit of NaoH on my hand my friend sent me this link. :icon_lol:
http://www.northwestern.edu/uservices/docs/labs/SafetyTrainer_gloveselection.pdf
good info there too.
I need to buy a new box of gloves!
So...180 grit sandpaper for pre-etch, 2000 grit post-etch? Is that the consensus? Going to grab some in a while today.
yeah i go with 180 to really key the mutha up... :icon_twisted:
then 400-600---but finer will be ok too, it'll just be shinier.. :icon_cool:
Great etches, kupervaser and mustachio!
@mustachio Great etch, love the design!
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 10, 2013, 03:40:09 PM
yeah i go with 180 to really key the mutha up... :icon_twisted:
That's interesting, I've been doing 400->800->1200->1500->2000 pre-etch so it's super smooth as I thought that was the idea? Does a rougher surface help with the transfer then? Would much rather do that than spend 30 mins sanding with all the various grades beforehand! ;)
Still having a few teething problems with etching, mainly that I keep smudging the mask during transfer, have I been applying too much pressure perhaps? Do you guys just go over lightly with the iron? I've been pressing down quite hard.
Also I tried submerging the box in sodium hydroxide but I think I must have made the solution too strong (about 50%) as the reaction was pretty violent and this was the result after about a minute and half! Didn't come out anywhere near as clean as I wanted so back to the drawing board I think!
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/adde8536b96ca411a677fd352a7d3570/tumblr_mjhpqeQIKx1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
hi hex:
180 gives the toner a better grip imo...
as for smudging, i used to tape the transfer to the box so it can't move..(but got sick of hot glue from tape sticking to sides etc)..but now i just place it where it should be and put the iron on one end of the transfer so it sticks (holding the transfer)
and then pull the iron over the rest of it....remember the ally boxes get really hot, pretty quick...so you don't need to iron for very long really...(i use hottest setting on iron)
delay lama.. ;D :icon_cool:
Ok thanks Rob I'll give that a go next time. I've been sticking it down with tape, then just leaving the iron on top for a minute, then going round the whole mask pressing quite hard with the edge of the iron for about 10 mins, seems like I might have been overdoing it?
Delay lama. That is sweet.8)
Does the magazine paper trick work on boxes? I tried to transfer yesterday, that ink just sat on the paper, would not transfer at all. I'm using the laser printer at work, so maybe I'll have to bring some glossy paper in with me....
Will inkjet photo paper work, as long as laser printer is used?
yep glossy magazine paper works a treat.....has to be shiney though...not matt...try and find a page without much colour on it...just text etc..
do you have access to the printer settings?...turn toner saver off, print at best quality. dark.
not sure on inkjet glossy paper...
kupervaser, I'm still trying to think of a way to do a colour filled etch with a painted panel. I can only think to spray the panel, stick on the mask, and sand through the exposed paint. then etch and spray the fill colour. I'm not sure it will work too well, though, might end up with that 'special' look, like your pedal.
Hexjibber, try filling that delay lama with diff colors of paint, you might end up with something real good. 70's burnt orange dot swirls?
Great morning, two successful etches and I found a set of Monsoon MM-1000 speakers w/ subwoofer for $25 at the thrift store.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30050282/swallow.jpg)
from an 1870 Lithograph - Octopus attack from Jules Verne's "20000 Leagues Under the Sea"
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30050282/20000%20leagues.jpg)
Electro-etched w/ copper sulfate
Andrew.
@andrew: came out nice man.... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
The thing I like about the electo etching is that the etch is darkened by the process. Once it is done, I just clean off the toner with acetone and I am done - no painting and no sanding. It suits my lazy nature.
Andrew.
cool, sounds nice n easy.....i need to be more lazy... :)
here's my usual rubbish... :icon_rolleyes:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spit1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spit2.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spit3.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 14, 2013, 01:07:48 PM
here's my usual rubbish... :icon_rolleyes:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/spit1.jpg)
Noooo! You do yourself a disservice, Rob! I know lazy would give you more time for sausages, but don't neglect your excellent etches!
i always make time for sausages... ;D cheers man.
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 14, 2013, 01:07:48 PM
here's my usual rubbish... :icon_rolleyes:
Cool looking rubbish! I like the Rorschach inspired eyes. ;)
Your pedals always look great Rob! Do you clear coat them ?
h jim, yep i use car clearcoat spray... it can cure by itself, or be put in a toster oven for just a couple on mins literally........or on a radiator.
just keeps em shiny.. 8)
thin coat on sides, few coats on top.
@deadastronaut: Nice etch! I have got to try clear coating them some time...
Has anyone tried using a sponge to apply the etchant to an enclosure? Thinking about trying it with sodium hydroxide as pipetting takes quite a while with a full design and dipping/submerging didn't work out too well for me last time! Found this and wondered if it would work for etching enclosures?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Sponge-Ferric-Chloride-Method-Etch-Circuit-Bo/
Quote from: Hexjibber on March 15, 2013, 12:40:57 PM
Has anyone tried using a sponge to apply the etchant to an enclosure? Thinking about trying it with sodium hydroxide as pipetting takes quite a while with a full design and dipping/submerging didn't work out too well for me last time! Found this and wondered if it would work for etching enclosures?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Sponge-Ferric-Chloride-Method-Etch-Circuit-Bo/
Test a small piece of the sponge material first to make sure it's compatible with the NaOH. Another option might be a paint brush. Again, test for compatibility.
I plan on doing the sponge method this weekend. Gotta grab some laser toner first....>:(
I'll report the results.
Etch #3! Really pleased with how this one turned out :)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/a54a5c269362c536398115a8b96b7f37/tumblr_mjrv1mUme61s7epwwo1_400.jpg)
How did you do the two-tone thing?
Quote from: Hexjibber on March 16, 2013, 05:22:20 PM
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/a54a5c269362c536398115a8b96b7f37/tumblr_mjrv1mUme61s7epwwo1_400.jpg)
Beautiful! Great work Graham!
+1 came out excellent.. 8)
Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....
Quote from: ch1naski on March 17, 2013, 02:01:39 PM
Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....
Don't feel bad. I've never successfully etched a pedal. I don't know how these guys do it. It's tough enough to get a PCB etched just right.
Quote from: rousejeremy on March 17, 2013, 02:31:00 PM
Quote from: ch1naski on March 17, 2013, 02:01:39 PM
Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....
Don't feel bad. I've never successfully etched a pedal. I don't know how these guys do it. It's tough enough to get a PCB etched just right.
partial luck with the photo paper, but not useable. :-\ I'm going to try sanding with 1800 grit before I transfer this time. The photo paper leaves a lot of stickiness on the box.
Quote from: ch1naski on March 17, 2013, 03:50:11 PM
Quote from: rousejeremy on March 17, 2013, 02:31:00 PM
Quote from: ch1naski on March 17, 2013, 02:01:39 PM
Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....
Don't feel bad. I've never successfully etched a pedal. I don't know how these guys do it. It's tough enough to get a PCB etched just right.
partial luck with the photo paper, but not useable. :-\ I'm going to try sanding with 1800 grit before I transfer this time. The photo paper leaves a lot of stickiness on the box.
Keep at it man, you'll get there! If it helps I sanded with 400 then 800 for about 15mins in total, rinsed then cleaned with acetone making sure not to touch the top surface afterwards. I use Polaroid Premium Gloss Photo Paper, 180gsm and transferred using the iron on the hottest setting and not applying too much pressure for about 10mins in total.
Thanks for the compliments guys, couldn't have done it without your help! Really enjoying it now!
Quote from: Hexjibber on March 17, 2013, 04:13:21 PM
Quote from: ch1naski on March 17, 2013, 03:50:11 PM
Quote from: rousejeremy on March 17, 2013, 02:31:00 PM
Quote from: ch1naski on March 17, 2013, 02:01:39 PM
Having the worst luck getting the toner to transfer. On my fourth try, this time using photo paper. Crossing fingers....
Don't feel bad. I've never successfully etched a pedal. I don't know how these guys do it. It's tough enough to get a PCB etched just right.
partial luck with the photo paper, but not useable. :-\ I'm going to try sanding with 1800 grit before I transfer this time. The photo paper leaves a lot of stickiness on the box.
Keep at it man, you'll get there! If it helps I sanded with 400 then 800 for about 15mins in total, rinsed then cleaned with acetone making sure not to touch the top surface afterwards. I use Polaroid Premium Gloss Photo Paper, 180gsm and transferred using the iron on the hottest setting and not applying too much pressure for about 10mins in total.
Thanks for the compliments guys, couldn't have done it without your help! Really enjoying it now!
my girl is going to get mad if I waste more of her photo paper:)
I ran out and brought home some wet/dry sandpaper, 180 up to 2500 grit. Sanded off with 400 (I've already sanded it with 180 a few times), cleaned with Zippo fluid, now trying with magazine paper....
zippo fluid?...
i wouldn't bother with that....may leave an oily residue...
when sanding use a little washing up liquid too...then just rinse, dry..iron.
I have never tried an etch so just speculation on my part but, have you been using are hard flat block to back your paper and level sand the top of your enclosure? Take a marker and mark up the top of the enclosure with that, sand with the hard backed paper and it's easy to see how uneven the surface is and what's necessary to get to a true flat face.
A soft backing of the paper would just follow whatever uneveness was present in the top, maybe even make it worse. If the top isn't perfectly flat you wouldn't get uniform heating when you try and transfer, the high areas would transfer but in the dips there would be issues.
dave
Okay, skipping the Zippo fluid.
I'm using a drywall sanding block, wrapped with the sandpaper. I started with 180, then 220, then 400. I've got a metal ruler as a straight edge to check that it's flat.
This is the image (before inverting and flipping) that I'm trying.(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/18/rezemude.jpg)
This is the last effort...couldn't get the paper completely off, but the toner had come off in key places that I don't think I could fix with paint pen. So I need to try it over.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/18/zery8yqa.jpg)
Maybe the image is too detailed?
the 'paper' image looks really rough....
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 17, 2013, 08:54:11 PMthe 'paper' image looks really rough....
I've since been using vector graphics for the actual transfer. The paper print was after converting to bitmap, and it's also on an inkjet.
The transfer image is very crisp and detailed, maybe too much fine detail....
Oh, yes, I'm also using a Brother laser printer. I've heard stories about them not being so good for this. But that's what I'm stuck with...
I could never get a good toner transfer with my Brother laser printer. I gave it away and bought a Samsung and have has much better luck.
Andrew.
Something else that's real handy to have on your art would be the "crosshairs" for your pots', jack (meant switch) and LED holes. Will ensure that your holes and legending are aligned.
dave
Quote from: electrosonic on March 17, 2013, 10:06:09 PM
I could never get a good toner transfer with my Brother laser printer. I gave it away and bought a Samsung and have has much better luck.
Andrew.
that's what I've been hearing. I'm going to get a different one.
Yet another thing to suck up my money.....all in the name of my obsessive hobby.:)
Quote from: davent on March 17, 2013, 10:14:32 PM
Something else that's real handy to have on your art would be the "crosshairs" for your pots', jack and LED holes. Will ensure that your holes and legending are aligned.
dave
I'm still struggling with illustrator/Photoshop/inkscape, I have a hell of a time with "layers" and importing graphics from one image to another. Vector packs are somewhat of a pain for me at the moment. But I'm making progress. I used rulers and went off of a three knob 125b drill template I found around here somewhere.
On the subject of getting the box flat.
Using a hard flat bock to sand with is one way.
Another way it to put a wet sheet of wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper
on a sheet of glass then sand with the top side of the enclosure down.
Make sure to keep the paper wet and wash of the metal dust every once
and a while. You can hold down the paper to the glass with one hand
and hold the box with the other.
One way to get around having a super flat box top is to
take out some of the slop by making your iron surface softer.
It's hard to get two hard surfaces perfectly parallel, especially when you are
moving them around,
Put a folded sheet of paper between the iron and the box.
This will iron out any small imperfections and give you more contact between
the iron and box. They make different sanding pads for this very reason.
You could use 3 or 4 sheets if you like. Or heavier paper.
Once the box is hot it does not take that much heat to keep it there.
EDIT:
May as well add this for clarity. Use an even pressure and circular
ironing motion. I make small circles around all the edges and then work
into the center with some mild pressure. You want to work over the
entire area and press the photo paper or press and peel blue onto the
whole surface of the box while keeping the iron and box as parallel as posible.
That being said, I lean a little on the fist half/tip of the iron while making circles.
Thanks for the help, John.
I finally got a decent transfer, but I think the details were too fine. The etch didn't pick it all up, and some of the toner seems to have given way during the etching. It wouldn't rub off with my fingers, but didn't hold up in the etching process.
I won't really know how my first one came out until I sand it down tomorrow. It's late, I have been at this all day.
One thing I do know, I'm getting a new laser printer this week. I've heard too many bad things about Brother printers. Get what you pay for, I guess.
I just want to thank you all for the help and suggestions. I love these forums. You all rock.8)
Okay.
My first etch. Be kind. After initial sanding (I used a dremel with a wire brush to clean some of the lettering so I can go back over it with a paintpen).
It's going to house Jon Patton's clipper ship. Hence the ship.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/19/yga3a6ut.jpg)
I think the toner didn't transfer too well.
Getting rid of the brother laser printer tomorrow, and investing in a decent one. I've got one suggestion for Samsung.
Any other suggestions for a decent, inexpensive laser printer?
That actually looks pretty good other than the pin hole pitting.
Make sure to mask off the area where etchant can seep under the
toner transfer. I use dollar store enamel paint dabbed on with a small
artist brush. Use a strong light. If you see any aluminum gleaming through
then dab on some paint to keep that area from etching.
One way you can keep etchant in the right place is by dabbing it on the areas
you want to etch rather than submerging the whole top. Use a Q tip/earbud
soaked in etchant and after a few retouches wash away the spent etchant and
dab on more may take a bit more time but it's highly more accurate in localizing
your etch areas and cutting down on surface area where pin holes may hide.
Another way to do it is to entirely coat the top with paint right up to where the
transfer isn't blocking etchant. Will take some time but the etch will be only
where you want it. Covering larger areas with toner isn't foolproof, it's quite thin
and unrealistic to think that it will be 100% blocking.
Thanks, John. I used a paint pen to cover the edges of the toner, but not in the large patches of toner. And i did submerge it.
Lesson learned.
I'll cover everything I can with enamel next time. Also plan on trying the sponge/sponge qtip method. Good thing I've got a few bare enclosures here....;)
well its not too bad. :)
like john said look at it under a light, you'll see shiny specs where the toner missed...basically paint everything you don't etch.
printer: samsung ML1600: ;)
Yup I agree with those guys, and don't worry this is good practice and fun!
Printer: I bought a Canon LBP6000 recently its awesome , and cheap for what where doing here. I got mine for 50 bucks brand new. The options for toner darkness etc are great and simple to find.
Quote from: John Lyons on March 18, 2013, 11:51:55 PM
One way you can keep etchant in the right place is by dabbing it on the areas you want to etch rather than submerging the whole top. Use a Q tip/earbud soaked in etchant and after a few retouches wash away the spent etchant and dab on more may take a bit more time but it's highly more accurate in localizing your etch areas and cutting down on surface area where pin holes may hide.
+1
If you're using NaOH, you need to find some alkali resistant paint for masking (enamel doesn't work).
I hope my question is not too off-topic ,but it s related to etchings some 250 years ago.
I was last weekend in the Rembrandt house/Amsterdam ,and he did some remarquable
etchings in those days, but mainly on copper to transfer pictures on paper.
Wouldn't that be a method for us today a bit like silkscreening?
Unfortunatly , no info about the acids.
Thoughts???
Regards JM
On the subject of printers....
You think 600x600 dpi is too low of a resolution for etching boxes?
More importantly, pcb's ?
Quote from: radio on March 19, 2013, 07:57:12 AM
I hope my question is not too off-topic ,but it s related to etchings some 250 years ago.
I was last weekend in the Rembrandt house/Amsterdam ,and he did some remarquable
etchings in those days, but mainly on copper to transfer pictures on paper.
Wouldn't that be a method for us today a bit like silkscreening?
Unfortunatly , no info about the acids.
Thoughts???
Regards JM
What they did is coat a sheet of copper with a thin layer of wax and use a fine needle to draw in the wax. by doing this the copper would be exposed where they drew. they would then dip it in an acid to etch where the copper is exposed leaving the drawn image in the copper. Then they take off the wax and cover it with ink and press it to paper.
So its not really like silkscreening. It's more like pressings.
I hope that explains what you were asking about.
Thanks for your explanation, Mike !
Regards JM
Quote from: ch1naski on March 19, 2013, 09:24:38 AM
On the subject of printers....
You think 600x600 dpi is too low of a resolution for etching boxes?
More importantly, pcb's ?
That's fine. Most artwork isn't even that high resolution.
Quote from: defaced on March 19, 2013, 03:04:24 PM
Quote from: ch1naski on March 19, 2013, 09:24:38 AM
On the subject of printers....
You think 600x600 dpi is too low of a resolution for etching boxes?
More importantly, pcb's ?
That's fine. Most artwork isn't even that high resolution.
I use a 300x300 inkjet for PCBs (photo sensitive boards) and they're every bit as detailed as you need for through hole components.
I've learned from a couple mistakes, had some great input from you guys, and came close to to a good etch.
I'm really excited to try another. Unfortunately, 11 hour workdays don't leave much time for anything. Hopefully this weekend.
Codtone Expandra, (Bixonic Expandora)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0632_zps247930bd.jpg)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on March 20, 2013, 07:10:48 AM
Codtone Expandra, (Bixonic Expandora)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0632_zps247930bd.jpg)
Nice etch and great choice of graphic for the pedal!
+1 , cool design... 8)
A question about irons: how harmful to the iron is it to use in the transfer process?
Or, to phrase it in another way: will my housemate know that I've borrowed his iron to make etching transfers, or is it wiser to buy a used on off Craigslist?
If you use paper or cloth over the transfer (like I didn't at first), should be ok. Do NOT iron photo paper without something between it and the iron. Or suffer the consequences, like I did...:)
My girl is going to be pissed. :o
Quote from: ch1naski on March 20, 2013, 05:09:10 PMMy girl is going to be pissed.
How did you guess the title of my autobiographie?
Between 275 and 325 F, the toner transfers to the enclosure / pcb.
At something like 375 F the press n peel backing melts, sticking to the iron.
A piece of paper between the iron and the press n peel is cheap insurance.
Andrew.
I have another question.
What's the consensus on toner in the etched area, do you leave it on the final finished product? paint over it? remove it and then paint?
Discuss!
Quote from: graylensman on March 20, 2013, 04:17:07 PM
A question about irons: how harmful to the iron is it to use in the transfer process?
Or, to phrase it in another way: will my housemate know that I've borrowed his iron to make etching transfers, or is it wiser to buy a used on off Craigslist?
If you do happen to get some schmutz on the iron, just make a thick paste out of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water, and use a paper towel or cloth to scrub the iron with this paste. Just keep it "pasty" and not too liquid. When finished, just wipe clean with a damp cloth. It will leave the iron with a beautiful shiny finish. BTW, this also works well on a lot of other surfaces.
Nice tip John! You always have great info man! Gonna check the fridge for some baking soda and try this on a box soon!
Nice Etch on that Expandora! looks great.
Thanks for the info on temps Electro! Will come in handy and good stuff to know!
Thanks!
Here's a ROG English Channel
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0662_zps592316ca.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0652_zps5bac80b1.jpg)
Mmmm, British boobs.
Nice etch.
Quote from: Mustachio on March 21, 2013, 03:12:10 AM
Nice tip John! You always have great info man! Gonna check the fridge for some baking soda and try this on a box soon!
Must have been all of those Home-Ec classes I took in place of gym...;)
@guitarmageddon:
ha ha excellent... ;D
I love the look of etching, but before I try this I have one question: does etching weaken the structure of the enclosures enough to worry about crushing them with your foot when you step on the footswitch? (just in case one ever finds its way onto the floor in front of a lead-footed rock musician)
I don't know for the other "etchers" here, but I did a bunch of etches and some went really out of control (bubbles, fumes, splashes) and I got pretty deep etched boxes.
If you're using the hammond type boxes, I don't think it would make them more flimsy even with a VERY deep etch. The box would probably get eaten up pretty badly if you would leave it in the etchant for WAY too long but before it happens, a lot of weird, stinky, smoky stuff will warn you and encourage you to stop the process before it's too late. Try on the bottom plate if you're not sure.
Well, here's my final product. I really like the whole thing with etching. I plan on doing many more. I went and blew a couple hundred dollars on an hp laser printer, so my fingers are crossed that the next will go more smoothly.
Jon Patton's clipper ship.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/24/evu7yseq.jpg)
over al!, it looks really good: pretty great for a 1st attempt!!! :)
Maybe you could have "fix" the toner transfer flaws with nail polish or correcting fluid or any etch resistant masking matter and improve it a bit. It's pretty hard to get a 100% completely flawless transfert.
+1:
if you get 'pitting' dab the paint in where you want it to go with a brush, rather than spraying and filling up the 'piited' bits...
hope ya new printer is ok..
@poppyman, the only time i had fizzing and steam was when i used a really hot water ferric mix...did a great etch, but was a little corncerning seeing it react a bit violently.. :icon_eek:
ferric likes a bit of heat though....
@ deadastronaut:
it happened to me when I did my first "reversed" etch. I followed my usual etch routine, but there was much more aluminum exposed, especially because at some point, the etchant overflowed and went into the box instead of being only on the outside. The FeCl was straight from the bottle, so it got really hot really quick, it boiled and relase a really dreadful smoke.
I panicked and flushed the acid bucket with the water bucket to stop it.
Very scary and probably not good for my health
Somehow I think when a lot of aluminum is exposed the solution and the box get hot really fast so it gets into a "spiral".
Now, I dilute the solution when I do a reversed etch and wear gloves, a mask and goggles, even for something small. I don't want that to happen ever again.
yeah i think your right on that, ferric seems to like a lot of exposed area to bite into ...
my reversed etches always seem to go well...
Quote from: poppyman on March 24, 2013, 04:23:16 AM
over al!, it looks really good: pretty great for a 1st attempt!!! :)
Maybe you could have "fix" the toner transfer flaws with nail polish or correcting fluid or any etch resistant masking matter and improve it a bit. It's pretty hard to get a 100% completely flawless transfert.
Thanks.
I have seen some pretty near-flawless-looking etches around here, I don't know how these guys do it.
Already posted this in the pics thread but anyway;
D*A*M Meathead clone with increased input and output cap values for extra girth! Not as fancy as my last effort but I like the rough industrial look of it, named after my favourite film! :)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/06277f299dc171a77ca1d43e1575fadc/tumblr_mka9h4LThV1s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R4-bV13q3fE/Tnpgsate7-I/AAAAAAAAAck/wH-KZtXsVZs/s1600/dead-mans-shoes.jpg)
more rubbish from me ;)... phase 45 with mods to improve the sweep and for better use with distortion....proper unity etc.. ;)..i love this now!! :icon_cool:
red eye flashes with lfo speed 8)..green leds for on/off
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P270313_12.58%5B01%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P270313_13.01%5B01%5D.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P270313_13.00.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P270313_12.59.jpg)
I love the simplicity of that. the knob is also lighted?
cheers, no i wish it was one of those led pots, but too pricey for 1 with delivery...
and nowhere to be found in the uk... ::) ....unless anyone knows any different?
it catches the light from the greens though...a little.. :)
@ Deadastronaut
Nice man, very clean! I'm actually just about to start a Phase 45 build myself among other things, going to try a reverse etch for it, any tips?
have a border....or tape up the sides really well..
tip on the phaser build, use 100k's instead of 150k's...put a 220k on output, and a 14.7k on IC1B Instead of 10K.
use a 1M pot for ultra slow sweep too.... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 27, 2013, 10:02:22 AM
have a border....or tape up the sides really well..
tip on the phaser build, use 100k's instead of 150k's...put a 220k on output, and a 14.7k on IC1B Instead of 10K.
use a 1M pot for ultra slow sweep too.... ;)
Thanks man, I'll have a go at those, nice one!
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 27, 2013, 10:02:22 AMhave a border....or tape up the sides really well..
tip on the phaser build, use 100k's instead of 150k's...put a 220k on output, and a 14.7k on IC1B Instead of 10K.
use a 1M pot for ultra slow sweep too.... ;)
Hmm, I have a build done, maybe I'll rip it open and try those mods....
I also used a tri-color led, wired one anode for power-on, and the other two (green and blue) to the rate. Used a higher value clr for the power led, so when the rate is flashing, it's very noticeable.
cool idea, i have a few bi coloureds about..always forget have them.. :icon_idea:
Already posted in main pics thread but really happy with how the etch turned out on this one. Tried my first reverse etch last night, seems like it's come out pretty good I think, will post results at a later date!
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/0e925b9b0612ab5195b9589a63031c28/tumblr_mko7erNu3m1s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
That is so rad.
I abide.
Hex, I bet that pedal really ties the room together.
That's your name, Dude....
Sometimes, there's a man, well, he's the man for his time and place. He fits right in there.
Hello everybody ! One from me (http://sphotos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/483760_363994807050678_1255872872_n.jpg)
Nice Etch and multi color paint! Love the look of the layout, nice work Dromilious!
+1: looks cool, is that flourescent paint red...looks like its glowing. :icon_cool:
+1
And the way that the face is sketched with angular lines really make the etch stand out. Well done!!! :)
Thanks !
My first reverse etch (2nd attempt!), this is for a Phase 45 which I have renamed Phase 42 ;) Paint is a bit uneven at the moment but I'm really pleased with the etch.
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/69a7a7fc0f321fe148770401c307213f/tumblr_mkzil14N9Q1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
That looks super clean. What's the bias control?
looks cool.
whats your mix control like?...i tried it, but wasn't too happy with it, it was more of a vibey control than a mix imo..
and didn't go to well with distortion.
(the bias is to 'tune' the phase)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 09, 2013, 08:00:56 AM
looks cool.
whats your mix control like?...i tried it, but wasn't too happy with it, it was more of a vibey control than a mix imo..
and didn't go to well with distortion.
(the bias is to 'tune' the phase)
FET bias? Or is it like the vibe mod (capacitors)?
Sorry for the off topic questions...I'll make up for it with another etch report;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 09, 2013, 08:00:56 AM
whats your mix control like?...i tried it, but wasn't too happy with it, it was more of a vibey control than a mix imo..
I have to confess I don't know yet, only started on the enclosure so far and the PCB + mods are all part of a kit (Poodle's Pedal Parts P45). I've yet to progress to making my own boards but as this is my fifth build I'm started to look into it as I want to expand my options and gain more understanding of what's going on, rather than just solder by numbers! Having said that I think the kits are excellent quality for the price and I have been very pleased with the results of each one.
I've seen lots of vero layouts which I'd like to try but I much prefer the idea of etching my own PCBs as opposed to using stripboard, I have no idea how you convert one to the other though? Is there a good place I should start?
@chianski. pretty much the same imo, and with my experiments.
@graham: stripboard is fine for smaller projects, but pcb is much better for larger projects,
converting a schematic to vero becomes very large, very quickly. try pcb etching, you may as well as you use the same process as etching boxes. ;)
just finished etching , drilling my bass preamp..waiting for paint to dry ::)
should have it built later... ;)
New one for me. Distortion with two gain controls (Jazzy and Noisy - customer choice!) on a second footswitch. Artwork is his bands EP cover.
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/Disastro1.JPG.opt860x707o0%2C0s860x707.JPG)
Quote from: TG Flatline on April 09, 2013, 11:40:39 AM
New one for me. Distortion with two gain controls (Jazzy and Noisy - customer choice!) on a second footswitch. Artwork is his bands EP cover.
Nice etch! Very clean work!
@tom, nice to do custom stuff for people eh!...i often do custom designs for people, its always interesting to see what they want on it..
looks cool. 8)
Quote
I panicked and flushed the acid bucket with the water bucket to stop it.
Saw the above quote in a previous post and, in case it hasn't been mentioned recently, as the saying goes...
"Do as you ought to, add acid to water." (It rhymes if you say it like you're a gangsta.)
If you do it the other way, add water to a strong acid solution, you can get an exothermal reaction that, at best, will heat up your solution a bit. At worst, it will heat up so much that the water boils and vaporizes as it hits the strong acid solution. If that happens, it can spray the surrounding area with acid (your bench, clothes, hands, face, etc...).
I don't think you really need acid that strong to etch enclosures, but thought it was worth mentioning... just in case. 8) <---(note, the smiley's safety glasses)
~ Charlie
+1. Good advice. :)
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/FA9BE8A1-989D-461C-859C-1F594E011F65-3856-000005B990E05C52.jpg)
Hey guys,
For my reverse etch I have the rest of the box sprayed with black enamel, will this be durable enough or do I need to do something else to protect it? Some people seem to advocate clear laquer or baking or both, considering I don't have access to a small oven I can use for baking what's my next best bet for a durable finish?
Cheers
my dentist was wearing that get-up on monday, Jdansti. he wasn't wearing the earrings or the lippy, though.
my latest..
Bass preamp..obviously. :)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_16.56.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_16.57.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_17.00.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_16.59.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 10, 2013, 12:22:30 PM
my latest..
Bass preamp..obviously. :)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_16.56.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_16.57.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_17.00.jpg)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100413_16.59.jpg)
that last picture really makes the bass guitar jump out at you.
Nice.
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 10, 2013, 12:22:30 PM
my latest..
Bass preamp..obviously. :)
That looks great! Nice job!
~ Charlie
Just made this oscillator around 5am this morning and then went to sleep.
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/IMG_0780.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/IMG_0780.jpg.html)(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/IMG_0778.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/IMG_0778.jpg.html)(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/IMG_0786.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/IMG_0786.jpg.html)
Nice.
Interesting enclosure, too.
What the hell does it oscillate , tho?
His sleep cycle, I guess.
I never stay up that late but I was just "on a mission".
There are four oscillators, each one has a higher pitch than the last. Switches turn them on or off. Relatively simple circuit. It uses a cd40106 chip or schmitt-trigger. That is the only way I know/learned how to use them though. I like to make droning/pulsing chords and bleeps with it. :P
It sounds great with envelope filter, like a very basic synthesizer!
Latest etch, first time I've tried something with really fine detail, really pleased with the result!
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/74bc305c442bed5295d2f3c1ad88141c/tumblr_mlyg6fD35g1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 28, 2013, 03:51:19 AM
Latest etch, first time I've tried something with really fine detail, really pleased with the result!
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/74bc305c442bed5295d2f3c1ad88141c/tumblr_mlyg6fD35g1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
that came out stellar!
Which method/etchant did you use on that one?
Quote from: ch1naski on April 28, 2013, 11:43:00 AM
that came out stellar!
Which method/etchant did you use on that one?
Thanks man, I think it's my best one yet. Just usual laser toner transfer, 40% NaOH solution applied with a pipette, I've recently started using a brush to help agitate the solution, seems to help. Had the solution on for approx 10 mins, wiped off with kitchen paper, then reapplied, did this three times in total.
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 28, 2013, 05:18:17 PM
Just usual laser toner transfer...
Was this by magazine paper, PnP blue, or other?
Also, what was your detailed method for getting the transfer onto the enclosure so well?
Great job! ;)
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 28, 2013, 05:28:48 PM
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 28, 2013, 05:18:17 PM
Just usual laser toner transfer...
Was this by magazine paper, PnP blue, or other?
Also, what was your detailed method for getting the transfer onto the enclosure so well?
Great job! ;)
Thanks man, I use this paper;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004S9KN06
Only £1 a pack for 60 sheets from the £1 shop I got it from, bargain!
I prep with 400 then 800 grit sandpaper till smooth, clean with acetone, then iron on max heat, usually takes about 10 mins of heat to complete the transfer.
looking good graham.. 8)
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 28, 2013, 03:51:19 AM
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/74bc305c442bed5295d2f3c1ad88141c/tumblr_mlyg6fD35g1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Love it! 8)
~ Charlie
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 28, 2013, 05:45:22 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on April 28, 2013, 05:28:48 PM
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 28, 2013, 05:18:17 PM
Just usual laser toner transfer...
Was this by magazine paper, PnP blue, or other?
Also, what was your detailed method for getting the transfer onto the enclosure so well?
Great job! ;)
Thanks man, I use this paper;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004S9KN06
Only £1 a pack for 60 sheets from the £1 shop I got it from, bargain!
I prep with 400 then 800 grit sandpaper till smooth, clean with acetone, then iron on max heat, usually takes about 10 mins of heat to complete the transfer.
I need to have another go with photo paper, so will give that a go, cheers for the link! I've been using PnP from Rapid for ages now, but the price has just jumped up massively :(
Latest one from me:
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/CJH00_After%28small%29.JPG.opt540x617o0%2C0s540x617.JPG)
Been using translucent paints more and more recently. They really need a good clearcoat over them but depending on the colour they can look great over a black etch!
^ nice.
i was looking at 'glass paint' the other day...that would look nice in an etch too..
transparent etc, and some beautiful choice of colours too.. 8)
Quote from: TG Flatline on April 29, 2013, 05:52:35 AM
I need to have another go with photo paper, so will give that a go, cheers for the link! I've been using PnP from Rapid for ages now, but the price has just jumped up massively :(
It's worked really well for me, pure fluke to be honest, it was the first one I tried after a failed attempt with magazine paper!
Quote from: TG Flatline on April 29, 2013, 05:52:35 AM
Been using translucent paints more and more recently. They really need a good clearcoat over them but depending on the colour they can look great over a black etch!
I had a go with a translucent paint (this one - https://www.graff-city.com/product_info.php?products_id=1580 (https://www.graff-city.com/product_info.php?products_id=1580)) but it wasn't quite a translucent as I'd hoped, the black etch ended up being heavily tinted so wasn't really the result I was hoping for, any tips on paint choice etc?
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 29, 2013, 06:14:45 AM
I had a go with a translucent paint (this one - https://www.graff-city.com/product_info.php?products_id=1580 (https://www.graff-city.com/product_info.php?products_id=1580)) but it wasn't quite a translucent as I'd hoped, the black etch ended up being heavily tinted so wasn't really the result I was hoping for, any tips on paint choice etc?
I've been using Tamiya model paint, but with a really thin layer of clearcoat underneath. The red works quite well but can get too dark if you're not careful, the blue is quite nice as well but the main battle is exactly as you've described - not getting it too dark and covering the etch! With a couple I ended up filling the etch with black by hand after the translucent had been applied, which sort of defies the point of doing it in the first place! You can rough sand the box in some interesting ways to get some pretty cool textures though, there's some info on the AMZ site about it that's worth trying! I'm putting a circuit in a Boss enclosure at the minute (it's normally the other way round!) and have done the baseplate by rough sanding with a file in various directions before the translucent paint. Looks great from different angles so I'm going to try it on a normal box at some point!
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 29, 2013, 06:14:45 AM
Quote from: TG Flatline on April 29, 2013, 05:52:35 AM
Been using translucent paints more and more recently. They really need a good clearcoat over them but depending on the colour they can look great over a black etch!
I had a go with a translucent paint (this one - https://www.graff-city.com/product_info.php?products_id=1580 (https://www.graff-city.com/product_info.php?products_id=1580)) but it wasn't quite a translucent as I'd hoped, the black etch ended up being heavily tinted so wasn't really the result I was hoping for, any tips on paint choice etc?
I've also tried the Molotow paint - not transparent enough. Rear light lens paint works well though:
(https://imageshack.us/a/img27/848/mmdelay.jpg)
Made with this one: http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bilvard/Farg-och-Lack/Bakljusfarg-36869/
It's a Swedish site, but you should be able to find something similar.
My latest - A Box Of Metal. I used PnP, UV-curing ink for touch ups and etched with NaOH.
(https://imageshack.us/scaled/large/849/mossbauer.jpg)
(https://imageshack.us/scaled/large/16/mossbauergut.jpg)
@Pettol: both of these look really great!
Quote from: bluebunny on May 01, 2013, 04:46:58 PM
@Pettol: both of these look really great!
Totally. Really like both of those dude!!!
Super clean etching. And the font, and images, perfection.
Pettol, those both look fantastic.
Thanks Pettol, saw the first row about transparent paint and thought "well tough luck finding one of them in Sweden" then scrolled to see the link to Biltema ;D
Looking really nice there (both builds).
Quote from: Pettol on May 01, 2013, 04:22:20 PM
My latest - A Box Of Metal. I used PnP, UV-curing ink for touch ups and etched with NaOH.
(https://imageshack.us/scaled/large/849/mossbauer.jpg)
Brilliant work, I love it!
@pettol...
superb work man....flawless 8)
Yes indeed!
Really nice. Text is such an unforgiving thing to etch.
^ yeah, especially tiny text...very cool.
Very nice etch !
Thanks so much for the kind words! Means a lot to me hearing that from you.
@Perrow. Finally started following my father's advice: always check Biltema first.
The main problem with the Molotow paint (blue) was not the tint of the etched, black parts, but rather that I didn't get that subtle metallic look. Just looked a bit more shiny.
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 02, 2013, 04:59:48 AM
^ yeah, especially tiny text...very cool.
Speaking of tiny text...
Just finished my very first and somewhat OK looking faceplate etch. ;D
The only downfall with it was some of the smaller text. I used the equivalent or 9pt in MS Word and most of the text just ended up running together and now it looks like a hole instead of wording. The larger graphics turned out good.
So, my question is.... What is the consensus on minimum text size for a good etch?
Looking at Pettol's fantastic etch, it looks like it might just be a matter of spacing the letter a bit more. ???
In my opinion there's no minimum text size. But you're right, I always increase the spacing between the letters. And you don't have to do any deep etch of those parts. I sand to whatever grit I want before etching (usually 1200 or 1500), so that won't be a problem either.
Lightwah .....erm.....again. ::) ;)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/lightwahscott.jpg)
Very nice!!! :)
DA, your etches never fail to impress me. Really clean work.
Quote from: pickdropper on May 17, 2013, 03:40:32 PM
DA, your etches never fail to impress me. Really clean work.
+1 On this pedal especially, probably my favourite of yours!
cheers guys... 8)
Hey guys! I had a few quick questions as I'm constantly researching and trying to perfect my etching skills.
Right now I'm trying to reduce labor and come up with more efficient ways of etching. Some would call it lazy, I would call it innovative. :) Anyways, I've been toying with the idea of a 3d printer to do transfers onto my enclosures in the place of using the standard ironing technique. I was wondering if anyone out there has any experience with this or if it would even work. I'm in the works of (hopefully) getting with someone locally to try it out, but wanted to see if anyone in the DIY community had already attempted it. Sure the printers are expensive, but not really when you take into the cost of lazer printers (which is what I use now).
Also I'm been looking into a solution to using sand paper to remove the film of transfers after my etches. My idea was to build a table with a belt sander in it where I could simply run an enclosure very quickly down a line to take the finish off. Not sure if what I'm saying makes sense or not, but it makes sense in my head. I've also toyed with the idea of finding a chemical to remove the transferred ink.
So the reason I'm looking for "quicker" solutions is that I am running a side business where I etch enclosures for pedal builders. I want it to be more efficient and at the same time look better. I find that sanding enclosures by hand does not always yield the correct results. I do larger runs too and want to find better ways to stream line things.
I've found that using a product called Acid Magic reduces my etch times from 5-6 minutes to under 1 minute per etch. This has saved me literally hours upon hours of waiting, and the enclosures turn out awesome!
So sorry for the long paragraph here. Just looking for experience here. Thanks!
Quote from: jwar on May 18, 2013, 11:09:48 AMI've also toyed with the idea of finding a chemical to remove the transferred ink.
Are you talking about removing normal etch masks (toner, pnp, photo spray)? Acetone or ethyl acetate works fine. Or would that be for the 3d printer transfer? I'm sure DMF, DMSO or something similar would work.
^If you want to use a belt sander just flip it over and clamp it in your vice, belt sander has it's own platen/table.
Hi guys, this is my first pedal:
(http://s21.postimg.org/sd4yfoymv/pedal.jpg)
I love it! ::)
howd'ya clean the black stuff out of the letters?
I'm gonna post a tutorial soon :)
Quote from: frusciante89 on May 25, 2013, 01:39:55 PM
Hi guys, this is my first pedal:
(http://s21.postimg.org/sd4yfoymv/pedal.jpg)
I love it! ::)
Wow! If that's your
first... Very nice! :)
Yeah it's my first one! But I read all this thread before starting :) btw this is the tutorial... http://jalbum.net/en/create/photo-album/1358790
Hope it helps!
Sorry, this is the right link... http://jalbum.net/en/m/browse/album/1358790
That looks super. Those etched lines look very deep.
How'd you get it so polished?
Nice!
I suppose the polishing wheel and polishing compound were a key to success.
Yeah, I believe the black crap got removed during the polishing?
Also, I'd like to know whether it has started oxidizing again? I considered polishing but it seemed like a waste of time since mine always start dulling very soon afterwards. I suppose the clearcoat would dull the "finish"?
Yeah the polishing wheel was definitely the key! anyways it's still very bright (after 1 week)... we'll see what happens in the next few weeks.. by the way do you see only the pics or also the descriptions on the link I posted?
Quote from: GoranP on May 26, 2013, 03:30:53 AM
Yeah, I believe the black crap got removed during the polishing?
Also, I'd like to know whether it has started oxidizing again? I considered polishing but it seemed like a waste of time since mine always start dulling very soon afterwards. I suppose the clearcoat would dull the "finish"?
Yes it will oxidize again without clear coat. Clear coat, properly applied, should not dull the finish. If anything, it will enhance it. Just make sure that before you apply the clear coat, you wipe it down well with alcohol or acetone to remove any residues. Don't touch it with your fingers after you clean it.
Quote from: Jdansti on May 25, 2013, 03:11:34 PM
Quote from: frusciante89 on May 25, 2013, 01:39:55 PM
Hi guys, this is my first pedal:
(http://s21.postimg.org/sd4yfoymv/pedal.jpg)
I love it! ::)
Wow! If that's your first... Very nice! :)
I'm as gobsmacked as John! Nice etch. Nice pedal. :D
Quote from: frusciante89 on May 26, 2013, 06:52:53 AM
by the way do you see only the pics or also the descriptions on the link I posted?
I see the descriptions, just underneath the pictures. It does require scrolling down, though.
posted this in pictures thread too, but what the hell, it's all ones and zeroes, right?
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5441/8837728602_ec064dc9b0_c.jpg)
@frusciante: cool first etch.. came out brilliant...lots of buffing on that i bet... ;)
@gary...very cool. 8)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7281/8972240662_8bf664a712_z.jpg)
Meathead Deluxe clone
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/8a6ff745564e2e6fdf66f6b08ff811c0/tumblr_mo58h4N1cE1s7epwwo1_400.jpg)
Beautiful!
Quote from: garcho on June 10, 2013, 12:44:47 AM
Beautiful!
Thanks man, love your Harmonic Percolator, really unique and eye catching style!
^nice!
Been a while, so here's a few.
Wampler Ecstasy
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/MDMAOverdrive_zpsb624b8c8.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Guts_zpscbb8da66.jpg)
Supreau Deaux
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Supro_zpsae7a2f27.jpg)
D*A*M Grease bucket
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/MiniGB86_zps699639e4.jpg)
One in , four out buffered splitter.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_0895_zpse6f3bb11.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Guts_zps3eb0fb55.jpg)
Expandratron
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Expandratron2_zps89c6acbd.jpg)
Shoot the Moon trem.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/trems_zps7a5edc23.jpg)
^ cool 'antique' effect on those....nice. 8)
Like I said, "it's been a while" Rob. ;)
Does the lighted potentiometer also pulse on that stm?
Quote from: ch1naski on June 10, 2013, 12:25:52 PM
Does the lighted potentiometer also pulse on that stm?
Yes, it shows speed and shape (square or sine) 8)
That Meathead clone is brilliant! Latest one from me, it's a bass distortion with clean blend, customer wanted an eagle on there so went for something a bit more abstract!
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/Eagle2.JPG.opt347x347o0%2C0s347x347.JPG)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on June 10, 2013, 07:31:04 AM
Wampler Ecstasy
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/MDMAOverdrive_zpsb624b8c8.jpg)
Love this one!
Finished my Multiplex Echo at last!
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/7c2bf5fcc7f3f331d2c6eafa4004f950/tumblr_mo8yic4D9r1s7epwwo1_400.jpg)
Stunning!
Gorgeous!
Cheers guys!
Mint!!! Proper old skool :)
I'm stunned, Hex.
+1 that is very nice...i love that retro style on the bigger boxes, it really suits em...
pukka etch/design... :icon_cool:
One for the Albini fans!
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/093f9d5aa9f628602b3484ce09fb22e5/tumblr_moatfzM7Om1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Boxes about f****** ;D
Love that Multiplex Hex!
Pharaoh Phuzz
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Pharaoh3sm_zps77a7d43d.jpg)
^ nice, 8) don't you sand your boxes before etching.?
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 17, 2013, 03:29:45 AM
don't you sand your boxes before etching.?
Less and less. :icon_lol:
If I want them really shiny I'll sand a lot.
But sometimes I like them a little rustic, so they just get a light going over.
you lazy sod... ;D
thought so, they have a certain rusticy charm about them..
that's what i like about this thread, you can tell who's pedal it is without even seeing the name... 8)
Quote from: garcho on June 12, 2013, 05:44:26 PM
Boxes about f****** ;D
Ha....I knew that looked familiar! That whole album has such a crazy awesome sound.
Clay Jones Overdrive. Not really sure what the guy in the middle is about, think it's the chap I built it for's band logo, happy with the etch though! :)
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/4428b7915cd4769dd66544e48dbd8d79/tumblr_moky2kr38x1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on June 18, 2013, 04:27:10 AM
Clay Jones Overdrive. Not really sure what the guy in the middle is about, think it's the chap I built it for's band logo, happy with the etch though! :)
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/4428b7915cd4769dd66544e48dbd8d79/tumblr_moky2kr38x1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Sooooo nice !!
+1` 8)
Cheers guys! :)
Latest etch for a Violet Rams Head
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/fbcf4bead2b48df45ddd60f0bf419b78/tumblr_mp3dlzv2jG1s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
nice, very hippy chic... 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 28, 2013, 03:27:14 AM
nice, very hippy chic... 8)
Haha yeah it is a bit 'trippy doood' but wanted something a bit retro as its a Muff! :)
Ha! Sweet etch dude! Very nice!
You really master it now Graham. Proud that I had anything to do with it.
Here's a double pedal I recently finished, it's a Tim Escobedo Harmonic Jerkulator and Vox Repeat Percussion. I like it!
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/hj2.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/hj2.jpg.html)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/hj3.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/hj3.jpg.html)
(http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r518/shorty65mustang/IMG_8744.jpg) (http://s1169.photobucket.com/user/shorty65mustang/media/IMG_8744.jpg.html)
^ Great build! ^ Same knobs as this one too...
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/TittieFuzz1_medium.JPG.opt575x520o0%2C0s575x520.JPG)
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/TittieFuzz2_medium.JPG.opt658x435o0%2C0s658x435.JPG)
Two fuzzes in one box (Ram's Head and Green Russian) both with added Mids knobs, right footswitch engages/bypasses, left footswitch selects which fuzz. Relay switching. Artwork is from Shave Them Titties by Mr Boonstra at the request of the customer! The nipples light up bright pink to indicate when the pedal is engaged, with channel LEDs always active. You can't really have too much Muff on your board :)
I just wanted to stop by again and say thanks to everyone for all the great etching info! The acetone thing work brilliantly. My etching skills have improved a thousand fold thanks to this place.
I'll leave you with this Ugly Face I recently etched. It's Beetlejuice who was made famous on Howard Stern.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/E50F4483-0495-49BE-AA1A-7520A7F58812-3355-00000248250A7750_zpsed8bf5a8.jpg)
Quote from: TG Flatline on June 30, 2013, 01:07:40 AM
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/TittieFuzz1_medium.JPG.opt575x520o0%2C0s575x520.JPG)
You can't really have too much Muff on your board :)
Haha, that's definitely an odd choice of artwork, just checked out the Shave Them Titties website, random! Cool pedal though, I'm just building my Muff at the moment with mid pot and various other component tweaking, seems to be so many options!
^ cool, tom likes to keep a breast of things.,......ok i'll get my coat and a cab.. ::) :icon_redface:
@graham: i have a big muff on breadboard at the mo...i took an out directly from the last gain stage....sounded very creamy.,.. :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 01, 2013, 11:48:17 AM
^ cool, tom likes to keep a breast of things.,......ok i'll get my coat and a cab.. ::) :icon_redface:
@graham: i have a big muff on breadboard at the mo...i took an out directly from the last gain stage....sounded very creamy.,.. :icon_cool:
Ha! Rob I made the same joke so I shall share your taxi fare! The Big Muff is a great circuit for tweaking. Mess with the tone stack values (and add a Mids knob/switch) and the clipping frequency caps and you can get a huge variety of tones from it. Ok, it's all a variety of fuzz, but definite variety and lots of fun.
Not to mention you can add pretty much any booster in front of it (and label it "pre", like some booteekers do) and it will open up the sound a lot. Even amp-like, believe it or not.
i'm working on a 'SPACE MUFF FUZZ' ... ;)
to be revealed in a bit.....very unorthadox. but f...g cool ass mods/sounds... 8)
and easily tacked onto your standard muff too ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 02, 2013, 09:36:27 AM
i'm working on a 'SPACE MUFF FUZZ' ... ;)
to be revealed in a bit.....very unorthadox. but f...g cool ass mods/sounds... 8)
and easily tacked onto your standard muff too ;)
Be interested to hear that when it's ready Rob, mine is a kind of weird mix of Violet Ram's Head, Earthbound Supercollider, BlackArts Pharoah and EQD Hoof at the mo, I can't seem to stop tinkering around with it, was supposed to just be a Violet Ram's Head! ;)
yeah thats the cool thing with breadboard surfing....too many choices...some good some not so..
ive manged to get some cool octave sounds out of it too... 8)
my wav-mp3 converter has decided not to work...the f..... f....er.. ::).as soon as i get another free one i'll post up results/clips...thread.
its the kinda sound ive been after for a while...squeezey, swelly , steve hillage type stuff.....i even got the 'trumpet' sort of thing going too.. 8)
very synthy...hence 'SPACE FUZZ'.. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 02, 2013, 10:30:07 AM
yeah thats the cool thing with breadboard surfing....too many choices...some good some not so..
ive manged to get some cool octave sounds out of it too... 8)
my wav-mp3 converter has decided not to work...the f..... f....er.. ::).as soon as i get another free one i'll post up results/clips...thread.
its the kinda sound ive been after for a while...squeezey, swelly , steve hillage type stuff.....i even got the 'trumpet' sort of thing going too.. 8)
very synthy...hence 'SPACE FUZZ'.. ;)
Looking forward to checking that out.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=103338.msg920109;topicseen#msg920109
here ya go.. ;)
Really chuffed with how this Muff turned out
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/99d62d5fad6d5e85e8df30aa1dbaf4b7/tumblr_mpek4ntjTx1s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
^ sweet, i have a few of those jewels in different colours too, been meaning to find a use for them ...
nice build man. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 04, 2013, 04:40:31 AM
^ sweet, i have a few of those jewels in different colours too, been meaning to find a use for them ...
nice build man. 8)
Cheers Rob, yeah I really like the look of the jewel things, was easier to do than I thought it would be as well.
Well, I don´t post too much, but I´ll show the latest pedal I´ve made.
A BB Preamp Clone (Madbean´s Glitterratti PCB) with some Switches to have more Clipping Options.
(http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/1235/udlr.jpg)
(http://sphotos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/946235_10200849698957745_21883447_n.jpg)
Cheers.
My first etch
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad272/derin_robin/DSCF1198.jpg) (http://s943.photobucket.com/user/derin_robin/media/DSCF1198.jpg.html)
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad272/derin_robin/DSCF1201.jpg) (http://s943.photobucket.com/user/derin_robin/media/DSCF1201.jpg.html)
black bastard..LOL...
looks great. 8)
nice fuzz, i like the rust texture... 8)
rust is VERY cool!
Quote from: electricgrave on July 05, 2013, 08:57:02 PM
My first etch
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad272/derin_robin/DSCF1198.jpg)
Super Fuzz = Super Etch. Looks great. Well done!
Quote from: electricgrave on July 05, 2013, 08:57:02 PM
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad272/derin_robin/DSCF1198.jpg) (http://s943.photobucket.com/user/derin_robin/media/DSCF1198.jpg.html)
Great work man, looks cool! Love the massive font and colour of the etch!
+1
Loves me some hard core typography. 8)
Thanks guys! :)
Here's a bee baa box
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=49388&g2_serialNumber=1)
AAAAWESOME!!!
Love that Esthetic.
So many good etches on page 38. Properly awesome!!!
My take on three Escobedo snippets. 'Flatus' is based on the Bronx Cheer, 'LMC567' is based on the Thing Modulator, and 'Helium' is based on the Octup Blender. Still needs tweaking, so clips and schemos are not quite appropriate yet. Thanks Tim!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/12/emyza6yb.jpg)
Quote from: garcho on July 12, 2013, 10:47:12 AM
My take on three Escobedo snippets. 'Flatus' is based on the Bronx Cheer, 'LMC567' is based on the Thing Modulator, and 'Helium' is based on the Octup Blender. Still needs tweaking, so clips and schemos are not quite appropriate yet. Thanks Tim!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/12/emyza6yb.jpg)
SO GOOOOD!
glops never fails to amaze...love it 8) 8)
@gary, nice, great layout, i like to see multifx like that, especially with the led switching too...great to use those classic little circuits in one box, ideal... 8) 8)
Thanks dudes!
Gamera! Monster Fuzz of Doom.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Gamera_zps0670e1e5.jpg)
Bear Hug Compressor
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/BearHugMini_zpsfd6cd980.jpg)
Latest etch...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/swallowtail4.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/swallowtail1.jpg)
Didn't sand the enclosure enough and ended up with grooves with the press n peel. Etched it anyway, thought it looked interesting.
Andrew.
Madbean Double Flush
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/b3cc38c43f213013460461fcd28a51a9/tumblr_mq3mcq1RQf1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Thats awesome Graham I love the design and its such a clean etch ! Beauty !
Quote from: Mustachio on July 21, 2013, 06:23:23 AM
Thats awesome Graham I love the design and its such a clean etch ! Beauty !
+1
Fantastic design.
Built a Jazz Rat for a guy in Japan.
He asked if I could etch a Dalek on the front, I said- Sure thing!
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/deet_zpsa1d13cec.jpg)
The dalek 'ear' flickers when you play. If you're a Dalek fan you'll probably think that's pretty cool. ;)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/RatExterminator_zps41bfbe8d.jpg)
Madbean Fatpants (EP Booster with tone control mods and adjustable voltage)
This time, I was going for a rustic look, so my shoddy etch job fits.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/22/2a7edavy.jpg)
Hopefully, Jimmy Page won't sue me for trademark infringement.
Quote from: Mustachio on July 21, 2013, 06:23:23 AM
Thats awesome Graham I love the design and its such a clean etch ! Beauty !
Quote from: pickdropper on July 21, 2013, 10:58:00 AM
+1
Fantastic design.
Thanks a lot guys, I'm a big Radiohead/Thom Yorke fan so had to get something related on my board! :)
I will never understand how you guys get such clean etches.
Before I made my first stompbox I have been lurking around in this topic for etching inspiration, and here's my first post, build and etch.
I have been using etching ground as used by artists to etch into copper and zinc plates for making etch prints on paper. Through this method you can sort of paint your design and scratch away excess paint. And so it becomes more of a handdrawn design.
The basis is from a General Guitar Gadgets kit for a Green Russian Muff, to which I added two switches, one for turning it into a Civil War Muff and the other for bypassing the first clipping stage to make it a Tone Bender or a second clipping with Zener diodes.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/q71/s720x720/970970_600756033297640_1199578444_n.jpg)(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q75/s720x720/971174_600756063297637_1245005593_n.jpg)(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/q71/s720x720/1070078_600756093297634_1150019584_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/1070089_600756206630956_480620270_n.jpg)(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q71/s720x720/15958_600756293297614_1467059922_n.jpg)
Cheers, Tjø
That came out beautifully.
Nice job, and love the artwork !
Man, that is dingy in all the right ways. Looks great.
love the dalek 8)
@trippy: yay sputnik... 8) 8) 8)
Thanx guys, I really love the definite character of etching.
Quote from: Trippy Demon on July 22, 2013, 10:53:52 AM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/q71/s720x720/15958_600756293297614_1467059922_n.jpg)
Awesome work man!
Quote from: ch1naski on July 22, 2013, 08:49:09 AM
I will never understand how you guys get such clean etches.
I did a little photo guide if you're interested man..
http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching
^+1 That's super cool.
Quote from: guitarmageddon on July 24, 2013, 08:23:41 AM
^+1 That's super cool.
+2. Almost makes me want to give chemical etching a go.
+1: 8)
parcel tape is a f....g nightmare imo though..
i use nail varnish on the edges, then tape sides with electrical tape...then i cover the electrical tape with parcel tape.(nothing is getting through there) .otherwise the parcel tape goop is a f....r to get off the ally....
just my experience...
i'll have to try that caustic lark one day...when i finally run out of ferric. :)
Nice Picture tut!
I agree NaHo seems to give a cleaner etch. I did about the same thing rob when I used the NaHo caustic goobly gob. I actually used a pre mixed positive photo developer from MG Chemicals which is NaHo. Nail polish and tape cause the NaHo washes away inks and paints pretty fast.
Lately I have been just using steel wool to clean off the toner after an etch some how it seems faster. Then ill wipe it down with some acetone.
Your etches look great, really clean ! Love em!
Thanks guys, hopefully it will be useful to anyone that's interested in etching :)
@Rob I know what you mean about parcel tape, I've found that just rubbing it with acetone removes all the annoying sticky residue pretty easily. One drawback with NaOH is things like nail enamel don't work, they just get eaten through in seconds, fortunately the paper I use rarely leaves any holes in the mask so I don't have to touch it up.
I use the steel brush dremel attachment to clean etched enclosures. It takes about 30 seconds and they're sparkling.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1098172_10201797789766161_525177220_n.jpg)
Quote from: Slade on August 02, 2013, 08:57:28 AM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/1098172_10201797789766161_525177220_n.jpg)
Thought you'd gone a bit quiet! :) That's quality man, great detailing!
How do you ever find the time to do such nice etches? ::)
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on August 02, 2013, 09:07:00 AM
How do you ever find the time to do such nice etches? ::)
Did you asked me the same on youtube? Why are you so worried about my time? Please let me know, is it for the prize of the competition? Maybe you should write me a MP if you want to talk about it.
I don't have much time now, I made this one after many not so detailed etches this months.
Cheers!
Fernando.-
I don't give a shit about personal politics, I know a great etch when I see one! :icon_cool:
^^^ Thank you!
Great details and awesome pot/LED choice/positioning. I'd tap that even without knowing what's under the hood.
I've been quiet for a while... so here's a few etches :)
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/Harvey_Small.JPG)
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/Grand_Tarkin_Ext.jpg.opt557x313o0%2C0s557x313.jpg)
These two are the same, Big Muff derivative for bass with relay true bypass, Mids knob, and filtered clean blend. The clean blend is filtered at just over 2.4kHz, it's very subtle but I just prefer how the clean and fuzz mix after doing so.
Guts:
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/Grand_Tarkin_Int.jpg.opt556x313o0%2C0s556x313.jpg)
This is another Big Muff derivative, two in one box and for a stereo rig, with a Depth switch to change the caps in series with the clipping diodes, and rotary switches to move the corner frequencies of the LPF and HPF in the tone stack. Makes for a hugely versatile Muff and lots of fun. The depth switch is an on-off-on DPDT with the caps in series, one from each outer lug to the middle lug (repeated on each side to accommodate both stages) and I used 47n and 100n as they were the values that best complemented the rotary switches. The rotary switches switch the caps in the LPF and HPF of the tone stack.
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/ZappaTarkin_Medium.JPG.opt620x531o0%2C0s620x531.JPG)
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/ZappaTarkin_Back_Medium.JPG.opt660x457o0%2C0s660x457.JPG)
Quote from: TG Flatline on August 06, 2013, 04:49:58 AM
(http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/resources/ZappaTarkin_Back_Medium.JPG.opt660x457o0%2C0s660x457.JPG)
Awesome work man! Is it really for Dweezil Zappa?! Respect! :)
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 06, 2013, 04:53:19 AM
Awesome work man! Is it really for Dweezil Zappa?! Respect! :)
Aye for Dweezil! Cheers dude!! :)
It must sound really good, d.zappa is pretty keen about his tone.
Quote from: TG Flatline on August 06, 2013, 10:34:14 AM
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 06, 2013, 04:53:19 AM
Awesome work man! Is it really for Dweezil Zappa?! Respect! :)
Aye for Dweezil! Cheers dude!! :)
That's awesome! 8)
How about a Tarkin gut shot?
Quote from: guitarmageddon on August 06, 2013, 06:33:50 PM
Quote from: TG Flatline on August 06, 2013, 10:34:14 AM
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 06, 2013, 04:53:19 AM
Awesome work man! Is it really for Dweezil Zappa?! Respect! :)
Aye for Dweezil! Cheers dude!! :)
That's awesome! 8)
How about a Tarkin gut shot?
Forgot to take a gut shot, I always do! I'm definitely building another one of these though so guts will be spilled!!
OCD (v3) & Death By Audio Fuzz War (v1) in one box, good combo!
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/4e7a189e6e3a9868c310118bbcdac3f4/tumblr_mr5zlgaqBy1s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 07, 2013, 10:20:48 AM
OCD (v3) & Death By Audio Fuzz War (v1) in one box, good combo!
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/4e7a189e6e3a9868c310118bbcdac3f4/tumblr_mr5zlgaqBy1s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
Sweet! Love the bigger knobs up top!
Quote from: TG Flatline on August 07, 2013, 11:01:42 AM
Sweet! Love the bigger knobs up top!
Cheers man! I love those Davies 1470's! Sucks that I have to import them though, wish there was a UK based supplier of Davies stuff.
Quote from: TG Flatline on August 06, 2013, 10:34:14 AM
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 06, 2013, 04:53:19 AM
Awesome work man! Is it really for Dweezil Zappa?! Respect! :)
Aye for Dweezil! Cheers dude!! :)
how cool is that!... nice one man. 8) 8) 8)
Hi all,
New to this forum! I just tried doing my first pedal etch, and I've run into a problem. The toner isn't sticking to the enclosure, and this is after I've smoothed it down real nice with 600 sandpaper wet.
I'm following MarkM's tutorial, and ironing for 3 minutes.
It sticks well in some places, but for the most part it doesn't seem to be adhering (see piece of magazine in back). Is this an issue with ironing time? Should I iron for less or more?
I've tried using glossy photo paper and magazines, both with the same result.
(http://i.imgur.com/pIgNJGMl.jpg)
I think your toner is not suitable for the transfer.I had the same problem when i refilled my toner cartrige.I bought a new original samsung toner and everything is cool now.
I've heard of people having issues with toner brands, though not myself fortunately.
A large enclosure like that will be a significant heat sink, I think I'd give it a bit more time than 3 min.
I use glossy photo paper and it often starts to get brown scorch marks by the time I call it done.
I sit the iron on, leave everything to get good and hot, then thoroughly work it all over in circles, pressing firmly.
Also, try wiping down the box with acetone, they've got to be really clean, grease-free and dry too.
I have come up with a slightly different method.
I sand and wipe the surface with acetone.
Then I put my press n peel face with the transfer up in a cast iron pan (cheap from ikea - never used for food so it is grease free) and line up my enclosure on top of the press n peel.
I put a digital meat thermometer probe in the enclosure and weight the enclosure down with another cast iron pan.
I turn the stove on low (about 3 1/2) on my stove and monitor the temperature.
When it gets to 300 degrees (F) I flip the enclosure over in the pan and use a roller to give the transfer a once over and quench it in the sink with cold water.
Not always perfect, I still do some touch ups, but I have better success this way then with an iron.
Andrew.
I think I got my method from Slade's tutorial but I iron for much longer times, up to 15 minutes for large enclosures and at least 10 minutes for a 1590B. It's time consuming but I have excellent success doing this and hardly ever need to get out the nail polish.
Halcyon, also make sure that you've sanded the enclosure completely FLAT. Use a straight edge, like a ruler on edge, and lay it across the top.
More often than not, enclosures are higher around the edges, concave.
Those boxes get hot really quick. I only iron briefly really...a minute or so.
My latest etch - an Echo base.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img33/6725/bnel.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img821/8913/20lq.jpg)
I know, the guts are not as neat as they should be... I never learn, but it works. :-\
(http://imageshack.us/a/img826/9488/h3bj.jpg)
The back is actually not etched. Instead I used UV curing ink. Worked like a charm.
Quote from: Pettol on August 10, 2013, 10:18:09 AM
The back is actually not etched. Instead I used UV curing ink. Worked like a charm.
That looks great, what font are you using here? Tell us more about this UV curing ink method, please!
Thanks.
I used this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-UV-Curing-Paint-Ink-For-Character-Labels-Black-100g-/190655178895?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c63ef288f
(when that link is dead, just search for "PCB UV curing ink" on ebay).
This was my first attempt, so there is probably better ways, but this is how I did it:
1. I painted the areas where the text would go with a thin layer of the ink.
2. The ink was dried at 150 C.
3. I applied a mask - inverted print on transparencies (I used two aligned on top of each other).
4. The box was left in the sun for half an hour.
5. I finally wiped off the unexposed ink with ethanol.
I'm surprised how hard the text adheres.
And oh, the font is Century gothic, with the 'j' and 'd' tweaked a bit.
^ nice build..
cool lettering process too...very neat.. 8)
Pettol, I'm not sure I understand the process. The ink will etch when exposed to sunlight? No acid involved?
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 10, 2013, 10:13:59 AM
Those boxes get hot really quick. I only iron briefly really...a minute or so.
I guess it depends on the iron (and may be toner) you use. I had to do it at least 15 minutes.
@deadastro, Thanks.
@ch1naski, there's no etching involved with that ink. I used it only on the backside to test the technique.
The top is etched with pnp blue and NaOH. However that ink can be used for touch ups and masking for alkaline etching.
Quote from: Pettol on August 10, 2013, 10:18:09 AM
My latest etch - an Echo base.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img33/6725/bnel.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img821/8913/20lq.jpg)
I know, the guts are not as neat as they should be... I never learn, but it works. :-\
(http://imageshack.us/a/img826/9488/h3bj.jpg)
The back is actually not etched. Instead I used UV curing ink. Worked like a charm.
Beauty!!!
Quote from: Pettol on August 10, 2013, 12:49:36 PM
@deadastro, Thanks.
@ch1naski, there's no etching involved with that ink. I used it only on the backside to test the technique.
The top is etched with pnp blue and NaOH. However that ink can be used for touch ups and masking for alkaline etching.
if I would have read the whole post, I would have seen that. I was too busy admiring the photos.....
Quote from: Pettol on August 10, 2013, 11:19:22 AM
I used this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-UV-Curing-Paint-Ink-For-Character-Labels-Black-100g-/190655178895?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c63ef288f
(when that link is dead, just search for "PCB UV curing ink" on ebay).
Hi,
anybody knows where to get that shiped to germany?
edit: got it!
Hello, I just recently resolved some problems with my DIYS login, now I so can finally participate in this forum.
I am just starting to learn to build pedals, and these are my first 2 builds. I have posted these elsewhere, but since these are etched, I thought I would go ahead and add mine to the gallery in this thread.
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/micro_burst/1.MB_Main.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/micro_burst/2.MB_Full_Side.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/micro_burst/3.MB_open_lid_gut.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/micro_burst/4.MB_dual_gut.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/rocket_booster/1.RB_main.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/rocket_booster/2.RB_Top_CL.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/rocket_booster/5.RB_Flame_CL.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/rocket_booster/3.RB_Full_Side.jpg)
(http://www.jnoeding.com/pedals/rocket_booster/4.RB_dual_gut.jpg)
Anybody tried a heatgun for transfers? Probably not good for pnp but I'm sick of that dang iron. I've never owned a heat gun but its time. I
@Hylandren - nice builds!
@glops - haven't tried it, but controlled temperature and pressure are quite important parameters in my opinion and you won't get that with a heat gun.
But yep, I know the feeling.
Quote from: hylandren on August 14, 2013, 08:35:59 PM
Hello, I just recently resolved some problems with my DIYS login, now I so can finally participate in this forum.
I am just starting to learn to build pedals, and these are my first 2 builds. I have posted these elsewhere, but since these are etched, I thought I would go ahead and add mine to the gallery in this thread.
WOW! I wish my first builds looked that good. Did you have some electronics background before stompboxes?
Hi hylandren,
the flame of the rocket looks very cool. What kind of colour did you use? It looks a little bit like blood... :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on August 15, 2013, 01:59:09 AM
Quote from: hylandren on August 14, 2013, 08:35:59 PM
Hello, I just recently resolved some problems with my DIYS login, now I so can finally participate in this forum.
I am just starting to learn to build pedals, and these are my first 2 builds. I have posted these elsewhere, but since these are etched, I thought I would go ahead and add mine to the gallery in this thread.
WOW! I wish my first builds looked that good.
me too, very nice 8)....and kind of a coincidence!....you'll see why later hopefully... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 15, 2013, 04:01:42 AM
. . . and kind of a coincidence!....you'll see why later hopefully... ;)
Oooh! You tease! :o
yeah, i have to be as per 'competition rules'... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 15, 2013, 04:09:36 AM
yeah, i have to be as per 'competition rules'... ;)
I urge you to break the rules :icon_mrgreen:
^ lol, no way, i'm not falling for that old trick :D
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 15, 2013, 04:36:46 AM
^ lol, no way, i'm not falling for that old trick :D
Oh well, it was worth a try ::)
just finishing up , i broke my own rules and built it without testing first... :icon_eek:
i live on the edge me... :)..if it don't work i'll go mad and shout at the cat..... :o
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 15, 2013, 05:46:49 AM
if it don't work i'll go mad and shout at the cat..... :o
Result:
(https://i.chzbgr.com/maxW500/2752958720/hB85EE400/)
well the cat has been shouted at... >:(.....debug time.. ::)
Thanks for the kind comments.
QuoteDid you have some electronics background before stompboxes?
No, in fact about a year ago, I didn't even understand how electricity works.
Quotethe flame of the rocket looks very cool. What kind of colour did you use?
Duplicolor red cast. It translucent, so to get it to look brilliant like that, you need for the metal to be really shiny, so it will show through the paint.
Booty Thief ( Madbean Kingslayer)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Booty_zps791e9f0e.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/BootyThief_zps83a47d89.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/shed2_zps29471cb5.jpg)
That's awesome, guitarmageddon. Makes me want to etch another pedal :)
Cool , i love led eyes, 8)
i'm allowed to post this now..(as per competition rules) ;) its been a long time since i did a 1590bb,
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130821_005.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130821_003.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 22, 2013, 05:31:44 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130821_005.jpg)
Great stuff! Clean work as always man, looks awesome! Sounds cool in the vid as well, could no doubt bust out many Atomic Bitchwax or Monster Magnet riffs with that! :)
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 22, 2013, 05:35:53 AM
Great stuff! Clean work as always man, looks awesome! Sounds cool in the vid as well, could no doubt bust out many Atomic Bitchwax or Monster Magnet riffs with that! :)
[/quote]
cheers man, yep, monster magnet, atomic bitchwax...indeed you space lord mutha.. :icon_twisted: 8) 8) 8)
@deadastronaut, very nice!
^Very cool Rob!
I can pick one of your builds a mile away. 8)
Here's a Rangemaster in a wedge enclosure (cut down 125B)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/VintageRangemaster.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/Gutsv2.jpg)
@ Deadastronaut: Okay, NOW I see what you mean about the coincidence!
Wow, beautiful etching and brush work, great layout design, and sounds great to boot.
I still struggle to get small print and fine lines to come through when etching, so I am blown away by your etching precision...
If you don't mind my asking, are you a photo paper guy or pnp blue?
Ferric Chloride or something else ?
Guitarmageddon uses Photo paper with great results, but the only time I tried it, it was a total FUBAR disaster.
@guitarmaggedon....cheers man.
lovely rangemaster P TO P as well ....cool. 8)
@hy: cheers man, yep, i use glossy photo/ferric too...
if your image isn't sharp when you have ironed it...then redo the image.
i find if i stretch a font , even in inkscape it will not print sharply, though the image on screen is.... ;)
Hey Rob, save it in inkscape as a pdf and it will be sharp again
^ really....i'll have to try that...i just wondered why it was being weird...?
what is happening to it then?...when resized etc..?
cheers maik. 8)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on August 22, 2013, 08:20:46 AM
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/VintageRangemaster.jpg)
That's ace, love the shadowed font, lovely simple design, nice one dude!!
Yeah that is a cool font, came out great 8)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on August 16, 2013, 09:02:34 PM
Booty Thief ( Madbean Kingslayer)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Booty_zps791e9f0e.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/BootyThief_zps83a47d89.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/shed2_zps29471cb5.jpg)
I have an affinity for pedals (and guitars) that look like they are played hard, loved - you know, pieces that say, "do what you want with me, I'm a reliable tone machine."
This is a great example!
CHAD
Thanks gents.
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 22, 2013, 09:57:56 AM
Yeah that is a cool font, came out great 8)
Rob, the font is called Postoffice.
@Chad- thanks Man! I like the rustic look too.
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 22, 2013, 08:48:49 AM
if your image isn't sharp when you have ironed it...then redo the image.
i find if i stretch a font , even in inkscape it will not print sharply, though the image on screen is.... ;)
-If re-sizing makes your font not sharp, then that means its has somehow gotten rasterized. If kept in the vector format, you can literally enlarge it to the size of a billboard and it will still be razor sharp. That's the beauty of vector graphics.
That's what is throwing me, I am very careful to keep all type and images in vector format, and it looks sharp when I have finished the trasnfer, but small font and lines ( like those on your Space Patrol Fuzz) are often broken or jagged.
Quote from: Maik on August 22, 2013, 08:50:42 AM
Hey Rob, save it in inkscape as a pdf and it will be sharp again
-Actually that's not quite completely true. If it was originally a vector image, and he rasterized and saved it, saving it again as a raster (PDF)
image won't undue the damage that was already done earlier by previously rasterizing the original. Once its pixelated, re-converting it to a vector image will stop additional degradation, but can't undue what's already been done.
I think what they're saying is that Inkscape messes up when saving to bitmap (excessive jaggedness) but not when saving to pdf. The wonderful world of Inkscape ::) Don't get me wrong, I love it, but it's far from perfect.
Yes, Perrow is right.
Yesterday I sucked on this
(http://imageshack.us/a/img12/2210/f1ap.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/f1ap.jpg/)
http://imageshack.us/a/img12/2210/f1ap.jpg
The water for the acid was too hot, so the acid was too strong. Redo it, damn!
Quote from: Maik on August 23, 2013, 02:56:22 AM
Yes, Perrow is right.
I see. I use Illustrator which, by default saves images as vector files. I have never used Inkscape.
Quote from: Maik on August 23, 2013, 02:56:22 AM
Yesterday I sucked on this
(http://imageshack.us/a/img12/2210/f1ap.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/12/f1ap.jpg/)
http://imageshack.us/a/img12/2210/f1ap.jpg
See, that's a good example of what I mean, The small lined details there are more solid than on my transfers, so I am definitely still doing something wrong...
Quote from: Maik on August 23, 2013, 02:56:22 AM
The water for the acid was too hot, so the acid was too strong. Redo it, damn!
Perhaps that is what I am doing wrong. I fill a pitcher with hot water from the tap, and put the bottle of etchant in it for 10-15 minutes. Is there a specific recommended temperature for ferric chloride?
If I remember correctly my bottle Ferric Chloride by MG Chemicals, says not to exceed 135° Fahrenheit or 50° Celsius. I have an infrared thermometer I use to monitor my temperatures. If you get close to 135° the acid etches fast but a little strong, eats through your graphics where you don't want it. Gets really frothy too.
Quote from: endorphin on August 23, 2013, 03:03:26 PM
If I remember correctly my bottle Ferric Chloride by MG Chemicals, says not to exceed 135° Fahrenheit or 50° Celsius. I have an infrared thermometer I use to monitor my temperatures. If you get close to 135° the acid etches fast but a little strong, eats through your graphics where you don't want it. Gets really frothy too.
Thanks for that info. If that's the case, them etchant temperature is likely not teh cause, since I just run hot water from the tap to put the etchant in. I haven't put a thermometer to it, but I don't see how that water could be anywhere close to 135 degrees...
My problem was that the acid was about 30°C. HCI should have 20° or it gets stronger. It was realy a cooking thing, about one minute to eath uncontroleble :icon_redface:
Quote from: Perrow on August 23, 2013, 12:04:23 AM
I think what they're saying is that Inkscape messes up when saving to bitmap (excessive jaggedness) but not when saving to pdf. The wonderful world of Inkscape ::) Don't get me wrong, I love it, but it's far from perfect.
It doesn't do this for me other than what would be expected for bitmap vs. vector.
i tried exporting from inkscape to pdf, seems to have sorted it....strange. ???....but happy. :)
I'm not an Inkscape expert (I use Illustrator) but I believe that the vector information is preserved with the PDF info, which would explain why it works better than the raster formats.
cool...^
i was looking at adobe illustrator earlier....hmmm...
For those not versed with this, a clarification. 2 way to create an image file
1. Vector: pure mathematics. These describe everything about the size, shape, position, colour etc of each element of the image. Advantages are that each element is truly scalable and resolution is irelevant. Vectors files are tiny. Disadvantages are that no matter how good the mathematics, the final image will always look somewhat less than real life- more of a cartoon. Fonts are always created as vectors.
2. Bitmap: this is a grid of squares called pixels. Each pixel has a specification for colour, density and hue. The entire pixel is a flat even colour with no detail. Quantity of pixels per inch (PPI) is the resolution but its normally described as dots per inch (DPI) no matter how big the grid of pixels, the image is always made up those little squares so if you enlarge the image, you will eventually see them as jagged curves etc. Advantages are the amazing image quality, disadvantages are the lack of scalability and the can be enormous.
File types: there are specific bitmap only file types- tiff, targa, jpeg etc. Vector can be ai, cdr etc but there are 3 file types that can contain both bitmap AND vector elements. postscript (ps), encapsulated postscript (eps) and PDF. The fact that you are saving something as a PDF does not automatically mean that it will remain a vector. Check your pdf settings when saving the file
If you save a vector element in a bitmap format, it will be converted into a bitmap and there is no easy way to convert it back! Once your nice, mathematically scaleable vector object, including fonts, becomes a bitmap, it will show jagged edges if you enlarge it, and this will happen no matter which software you are using.
This is only the briefest of explanations but I hope it clearly shows that you cannot necessarily blame the graphics package for screwing up your images.
This is a build of Jon P's Clipper Ship, but with a BoneRay (http://s81.photobucket.com/user/merlinblencowe/media/BoaneRayStack.jpg.html?t=1268149807) tone stack. I ended up switching the volume pot to 1M to stay in line with the tone stack scale and then adding an output buffer. I love the extra flexibility the Tilt and Mid controls provide... totally worth the messy hack I did on the board. :D
The etch was kind of too shallow. I had to get creative and do a lot of color mixing with the airbrush, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out overall---it ended up looking textured and antiqued.
The jewel really is that crazy aqua color. It's an old amp jewel I picked up at a hamfest.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=49526&g2_serialNumber=1)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=49531&g2_serialNumber=2)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=49559&g2_serialNumber=1)
^ Billions of Blue Blistering Barnacles! -looks great. :icon_mrgreen:
Yeah that is sweet...love the colours... :icon_cool:
and the jewel suits it well....very nice
Yeah, between the etch and the paint job, it looks instantly vintage!
That etch sure looks great to me.
I don't know about you, but it seems like when I try to etch really deep, my deeper etches don't seem to have the sharpness at the edges that the shallower ones do...
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 22, 2013, 05:31:44 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130821_005.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130821_003.jpg)
Great looking and awesome sounding pedal, have to hint my guitar player to your site...
^ cool, cheers man. 8)
Did it again!
Amptweaker Tight Metal clone
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/703/64pk.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/64pk.jpg/)
[IMG=http://imageshack.us/a/img703/1304/64pk.jpg][/IMG] (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/64pk.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
^ Nicely done. All of that is etch?
Quote from: Maik on September 03, 2013, 02:37:25 PM
Did it again!
Amptweaker Tight Metal clone
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/703/64pk.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/64pk.jpg/)
[IMG=http://imageshack.us/a/img703/1304/64pk.jpg][/IMG] (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/64pk.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
A-maze-ing ;D
No really (despite the pun) it was.
nice one maik! making me dizzy, but nice! :P
@ thelonious, love that etch, color, jewel light, knobs and how it all comes together perfectly. That's something I would want on my pedalboard.
Jip, all etch!
And yes, makes me dizzy too. :icon_mrgreen:
Labyrinth was too small in photoshop, only 1px. 2-3px would be better, not so dizzy
Next big thing:
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/447/v62u.jpg
(http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/447/v62u.jpg)
a rasterpic
Quote from: Maik on September 04, 2013, 10:15:52 AM
Jip, all etch!
And yes, makes me dizzy too. :icon_mrgreen:
Labyrinth was too small in photoshop, only 1px. 2-3px would be better, not so dizzy
Next big thing:
http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/447/v62u.jpg
(http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/447/v62u.jpg)
a rasterpic
Wow. How in
the heck will you etch semi-tone grey? Wizardry, I tell you. Wizardry.
CHAD
No it´s no semitone. It´s black/white.
Ah, now I see...bad pic. The real one is black-white
this one is better
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1281/r0n4.jpg
I'm impressed you're even trying to etch that! On a side note, that picture somewhat reminds me of 2 paintings I made few years ago;
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/paintings/S6000510_zps04fc7c33.jpg) (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/tsjazynski/media/paintings/S6000510_zps04fc7c33.jpg.html)
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii220/tsjazynski/paintings/118bc5da-386a-4ae0-b392-4954481c5dc5_zps57ea0199.jpg) (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/tsjazynski/media/paintings/118bc5da-386a-4ae0-b392-4954481c5dc5_zps57ea0199.jpg.html)
Quote from: Maik on September 04, 2013, 11:07:03 AM
No it´s no semitone. It´s black/white.
Ah, now I see...bad pic. The real one is black-white
this one is better
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1281/r0n4.jpg
Ah, you cleared it up. That one will be
super easy. :icon_eek: :o
Impressed!
CHAD
Rasterizing is brilliant, no more worrying so much about those tiny errant etch holes! Not that finding an excuse to be sloppy is what I'm looking for... ::)
@liquitone
I like the blue one.
@Chad
I have to experiment with the exposure time and the acid. The acid has to be not so strong but strong enought to etch quick, so that the photoresist spray will stay and the "holes" will stay.
I think it will be easy :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Maik on September 04, 2013, 02:28:35 PM
@Chad
I have to experiment with the exposure time and the acid. The acid has to be not so strong but strong enought to etch quick, so that the photoresist spray will stay and the "holes" will stay.
I think it will be easy :icon_mrgreen:
Like a boss. You go Maik! The first stomp on that pedal will transport the user directly to an enchanted forest nightmare.
CHAD
*edit: make sure to highlight the hobgoblin-yeti just enough to terrorize ;)
That is certainly doable, Maik. No reason you cannot knock that out.
God point Chad. Will do it.
It´s a little bit like "yes we can" :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Maik on September 03, 2013, 02:37:25 PM
Did it again!
Amptweaker Tight Metal clone
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/703/64pk.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/64pk.jpg/)
[IMG=http://imageshack.us/a/img703/1304/64pk.jpg][/IMG] (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/703/64pk.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Damn, just saw this.... WOW!!! I can't etch an enclosure for nuthin :icon_sad: How do you like the tight metal?? I love mine but I have made a few addons and changes.
@JOK3RX
Thanks!
Don´t know it jet, have to make the wiring on monday and then I will see! But I think I will love it. Will do a demo with Two Notes WOS then...
edit: What kind of booster do you use? Is it before or after tight metal?
@ Maik, that full face maze etch is incredible.
The "Lullavibe" for my mate Matt. (one of his projects is "Space Cadet Lullabies")
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/lullavibe2.jpg)
Has taken me months to complete it, sourcing the parts, wiring it up, tweaking etc. but finished now and it's my favourite Univibe build so far.
It's a modified Roger Mayer Voodoo Vibe.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/guts-6.jpg)
Matt wanted Neil Armstrong on it, a challenging etch, but I think it came out pretty well.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/deet.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/lullavibe1.jpg)
^ :o
Wow, that's exceptionally cool, bravo!
Wow, that´s cool!
Is it all done with paper and ironing?
Thanks gents!
Quote from: Maik on September 13, 2013, 02:51:36 AM
Wow, that´s cool!
Is it all done with paper and ironing?
Yep, old school. ;)
@guitarmaggedon:
superb...i love that picture of me.. ;D. interesting to see how a photo comes out...hmmmmm.... :icon_idea:
excellent. 8)
@maik: uber cool, came out great man.. 8)
Holiday snap, Rob? ;D
Nice etch.
^ yeah that was me back in 69 , the photo was taken in croydon at a shopping centre... :icon_mrgreen:
I always said Croydon had no atmosphere...
[ OK, OK, I'm getting my coat! ]
very good... ;D
Quote from: guitarmageddon on September 12, 2013, 08:23:17 PM
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/lullavibe2.jpg)
Dude, that is an awesome etch! Can I ask how you achieved it in terms of the photo, is it a vector trace or some Photoshop threshold type hijinx? Or neither?
Opens up a whole new world of cool being able to do photos! :)
Thanks Hex.
It's not vector, the image was pulled straight off the internet. it was fairly hi res though.
There's no great secret, I do tweak the contrast and gamma in my pentax camera photo editing software (ACDC) sometimes, but really my brother laser printer does all the work. I noticed it does greys with a dot matrix, so I just try to preserve them in the etch.
I've been experimenting with this for a while, but my main tips are; don't over etch, know your acid and carefully monitor the cut. I use a bare fingertip to feel the progress...that finger is a lot smoother than the others now though... :icon_lol:
You can do it with photoshop (Filter-Raster, and then playing with contrast to give it a harder black-white) or rasterbator or Photoline.
Check out rasterbator.net or pl32.com. Both are free...
nice idea with the fingersmoothie :icon_mrgreen:
@ guitarmageddon - that is ace dude. I like the etch, the layout, the styling. Proper mint!!!
rasterbater :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
I just knew you'd like this one Rob. ;)
Thanks Tom!
8) :)
The way the printer does grayscale, makes it look somewhat like a newspaper photo. Vintage-looking.
Obviously, deadastro was not so dead back then....;)
No, but i liked making fake photos... ;D :(
Hey Guitarmageddon, this Lullavibe etch is incredible :o
I've been doing transfert with p'n'p blue with various copy machines, when I could do it at work or when the copy machine shop people were nice enough to let me use their machines ( a lot of them are afraid of "odd" paper sheets, like the p'n'p blue). And I a lot of various results as far as toner tranfert goes.
I was considering switching to photo paper and laser printer but it seems like some are better than others, to be used as a tranfert tool for etching.
Would you mind sharing the reference of your printer?
(a" Brother" is it?)
Or if any of you guys had good or bad experiences with specific laser printers?
thanks in advance!
Quote from: poppyman on September 15, 2013, 04:13:08 AMI was considering switching to photo paper and laser printer but it seems like some are better than others, to be used as a tranfert tool for etching.
Would you mind sharing the reference of your printer?
(a" Brother" is it?)
Or if any of you guys had good or bad experiences with specific laser printers?
thanks in advance!
My printer currently is a Brother HL-2132, but I've had others.
When the ink runs out I but a new one. Whatever is the cheapest. Terribly wasteful, I know. :icon_neutral: But this one was 50 clams, a refill was $70. :icon_confused:
I've never tried PnP.
I live out in the bush. I mix my own etchant for HCl and Hydrogen peroxide. Keep it out in tubs in the laundry to breath.
The photo paper is small amounts of whatever is the cheapest. Cheap is good. Small amounts because some seem to work better than others. Thin (180g/m2) and "waterproof" seem to be generally good traits.
This thread is full of so much awesome. I cannot wait for my parts to get here so that I can start etching. :icon_twisted:
Here's a pedal built for a bassist who wanted a character from the original Fallout computer game.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/TheMaster.jpg)
It's a combination of things, but at the core is my take on CJ's "Logan 5", which was derived from Tim Escobedo's "Thing Modulator", a pseudo ring modulator.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/guts-8.jpg)
I've paired it with a LFO and a clean blend.
It's also got a pair of external LDRs, one to warp the frequency and the other is part of a feedback loop.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/deet-1.jpg)
The etch was pretty tricky as, not only was the image pretty murky, it's an old game with pretty low-res graphics.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/profile-1.jpg)
There's a flashing ultra-violet "eye" synced with the LFO. :wink:
A little compilation of some of the noises it makes and a demonstration of the controls.
you noisey sod.. ;D
cool build man.... 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on September 24, 2013, 08:25:41 PM
Here's a pedal built for a bassist who wanted a character from the original Fallout computer game.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/TheMaster.jpg)
Love it.
Played Fallout 1&2 a ton as a kid. The Masterrrr
I started a thread about this site:
http://www.engravingschool.com/private/transfers.htm
with this thread number:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104453.0
about nine new methods of transferring images to a box for engraving. Some of the methods are simpler and more ecologically sound that what we usually see here. Worth a look!
Couple of simple builds, looper and ABY box but still thought worth a nice etch :)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/y3uhy7eh.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/a3yhapar.jpg)
*ABY box has a Klon buffer in it
nice, very tasteful design. 8)
Damn Jibber! Gorgeous, bravo!
this was a rescue pedal...my son in law decided he wanted to build a yjm 308....which didn't work, had holes drilled wonky, and painted it with emulsion :icon_rolleyes:...bless ::)
so after much laughter and ridicule i decided to take it home , gutted it, stripped it back, and sorted it for him....
he hasn't even seen or heard it yet, but i'm sure he'll be a happy little soul as he is a big malmsteen widdly widdly ice cream van music fan.. :icon_twisted:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_006.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_003.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_004.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_005.jpg)
p.s, its not really an etch...just toner. ;D
What a guy! Nice rescue job, Rob. You just need to finish it off with a (widdly widdly) blond poodle perm. ;D
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/2608f9d8-e86c-4b15-b8fa-4cb9961d3e47_zpse360168a.jpg) (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/seedlings/media/2608f9d8-e86c-4b15-b8fa-4cb9961d3e47_zpse360168a.jpg.html)
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/20130929_154359_zps14e54d57.jpg) (http://s206.photobucket.com/user/seedlings/media/20130929_154359_zps14e54d57.jpg.html)
Opamp overdrive with switchable high boost and low extension. Nabbed the sketch from the 'net.
CHAD
Harbinger (vibe) and Shoot the Moon (trem) combo.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/guts-9.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/Tremvibe.jpg)
Well, just finished an Overdrive with some Clippin´ Options, and tried to make an Old Style Box Look.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/625521_10201435091592195_281229802_n.jpg)
Wow! How did you do that rusty color?
It could be done with any of the metal pigment/oxidizer paint combo's I keep raving about.
Depending on material it could just be electrolysis induced oxidization...
But I suspect its brown paint.
The edges look actually worn away, gritty. Nice
I made that in an easier way.
After Etching the Box, I painted it with some kind of Patina called "Betún de Judea". I don´t know what´s the English name for that.
And, after it, for the golden and more brilliant parts, I used another kind of Patina called "Metal en Pasta", that would be something like "Mash Metal" in English.
Anyway, nothing that wouldn´t be found in an Art Store.
Regards.
Quote from: Flaconsius on October 02, 2013, 11:42:25 AM
I made that in an easier way.
After Etching the Box, I painted it with some kind of Patina called "Betún de Judea". I don´t know what´s the English name for that.
And, after it, for the golden and more brilliant parts, I used another kind of Patina called "Metal en Pasta", that would be something like "Mash Metal" in English.
Anyway, nothing that wouldn´t be found in an Art Store.
Regards.
Metal en Pasta.....
I was picturing aluminum rotini ......;)
thanks for the info.
Have to try it on a tweed pedal
Quote from: ch1naski on October 02, 2013, 02:31:58 PM
Metal en Pasta.....
I was picturing aluminum rotini ......;)
Hhaaahaa! That would be the most logical Translation.
But, it is something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gilders-Paste-Antique-Gold-Color-Patina-Metal-Wood-Art-Craft-Jewelry-Beads-/380716890672?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a47eba30
Cheers.
Quote from: Flaconsius on October 01, 2013, 11:23:55 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/625521_10201435091592195_281229802_n.jpg)
That looks cool man, will definitely have to give that a try!
Quote from: Flaconsius on October 01, 2013, 11:23:55 PM
Well, just finished an Overdrive with some Clippin´ Options, and tried to make an Old Style Box Look.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/625521_10201435091592195_281229802_n.jpg)
Oh yeah! Made in Argentina!!! Grande Flaco!
@Flaconsius - cool build. So far from what I am usually doing and I need something new...
@Hexjibber - Amazing etches as always (previous page). Is that done with photo paper?
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 29, 2013, 01:55:33 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_006.jpg)
p.s, its not really an etch...just toner. ;D
So clean. How do you do that toner transfer?
hi pettol:
same as usual, sand the box, export image from inkscape as pdf (which seems to retain sharpness) , iron...
i peeled the paper (tesco's 150gsm glossy) off when it was still pretty hot to touch...came off with no residue, and clean tonerless paper...very crisp.
then put under cold water and scrubbed with a toothbrush...though it didn't really need it...that's it...no clear coat.
the peel off when hot method has been 100% reliable. and sharp evey time.
Thanks deadastronaut. I've never been successful with photo paper, but with these details I might have better luck. (I user pnp for etching, but it leaves that blueish residue :().
yep, and expensive too.. :icon_evil:
Oh yes. I'm shocked every time I have to order them.
Quote from: Pettol on October 04, 2013, 02:31:07 AM
@Hexjibber - Amazing etches as always (previous page). Is that done with photo paper?
Thanks man! Yes I use photo paper, this one to be exact;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046Z1658 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046Z1658)
Very cheap (I get mine from the £1 shop!) and has always produced consistent results. After ironing I wait for it to cool and then peel off, it leaves a whitish residue over the masked areas but you can just apply the acid straight on top, no extra scrubbing/peeling etc required, very easy!
@Hexjibber - Thanks. I saw your tutorial and I got exactly those. Now I'm eager to try it.
hex: try peeling it off while still a little hot...comes off nice and crisp..no residue. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 04, 2013, 10:49:26 AM
hex: try peeling it off while still a little hot...comes off nice and crisp..no residue. ;)
There's no need to with the paper I use man, you can just apply the acid even though there's a residue, doesn't affect the etch. Might try that for just doing toner transfers like you did on your box though, been thinking about trying it on painted boxes
I've tried that but I couldn't get a good transfer without screwing up the paint. Now, someone just wrote about high temp paint (used for car engines) and that seems promising.
Engine paint might work well, too. Like for farm equipment. Dries faster and super hard. And cheap.
^ yep..
radiator paint/enamel will be ok too i think..
Quote from: Hexjibber on September 29, 2013, 04:52:13 AM
Couple of simple builds, looper and ABY box but still thought worth a nice etch :)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/y3uhy7eh.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/a3yhapar.jpg)
Mind = Blown. What method did you use?
Quote from: smurfedelic smurfberry on October 04, 2013, 10:25:03 PM
Quote from: Hexjibber on September 29, 2013, 04:52:13 AM
Couple of simple builds, looper and ABY box but still thought worth a nice etch :)
Mind = Blown. What method did you use?
+1. I really like those patterned surfaces, nice nice nice!
Quote from: Hexjibber on September 29, 2013, 04:52:13 AM
Couple of simple builds, looper and ABY box but still thought worth a nice etch :)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/y3uhy7eh.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/a3yhapar.jpg)
I recognize that second pattern, used it on a website build for my band at one point. :)
http://subtlepatterns.com/
This website is a gem if you're looking for a freeware graphic design resource.
^ thanks!
Booty Thief "Red Rackham" Model.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/jollyroger.jpg)
Quote from: garcho on October 04, 2013, 11:40:31 AM
Engine paint might work well, too. Like for farm equipment. Dries faster and super hard. And cheap.
I expect to see your green and yellow "Nothing Runs Like a Deere" pedal coming out soon. Maybe show a waveform with a John Deere lawn tractor mowing the tops off it for a fuzz. :icon_wink:
^ brilliant!
This was a fun one. :D
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/shoman.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/SHOMan.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/guts-11.jpg)
SUPER....erm......MAN.. 8) 8) 8)
^^^ Ouch! :icon_eek:
(http://www.ngart.com.au/images/exhibition/nickstathopoulos2013/thumbs/NS_2013_Get-Your-Coat-On!_90x90cm_Acrylic-and-oil-glaze-on-canvas.jpg) :icon_twisted:
yeah i grabbed both of my coats and got a cab...... ;D
I admit it, I *did* laugh - out loud, too. I guess I should also be getting my coat... ;)
Quote from: smurfedelic smurfberry on October 04, 2013, 10:25:03 PM
Mind = Blown. What method did you use?
Quote from: tubegeek on October 05, 2013, 12:28:15 AM
+1. I really like those patterned surfaces, nice nice nice!
Thanks guys! :) I've done a pic tutorial on my pedal blog if you're interested;
http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on October 07, 2013, 01:54:47 AM
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/SHOMan.jpg)
That's cool man! :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 07, 2013, 05:13:48 AM
Quote from: smurfedelic smurfberry on October 04, 2013, 10:25:03 PM
Mind = Blown. What method did you use?
Quote from: tubegeek on October 05, 2013, 12:28:15 AM
+1. I really like those patterned surfaces, nice nice nice!
Thanks guys! :) I've done a pic tutorial on my pedal blog if you're interested;
http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching)
Much appreciated, thank you. I've done one attempt that succeeded and like 10 that were just really crap.
This one got pretty nice when I filled in the etched parts with red paint, and sanded the rest and then covered with clear coat,
I don't seem to have a picture of that finished result..
(http://i.imgur.com/9rdhmjO.png)
Quote from: smurfedelic smurfberry on October 07, 2013, 07:40:32 AM
Much appreciated, thank you. I've done one attempt that succeeded and like 10 that were just really crap.
This one got pretty nice when I filled in the etched parts with red paint, and sanded the rest and then covered with clear coat,
I don't seem to have a picture of that finished result..
(http://i.imgur.com/9rdhmjO.png)
No problem man, hope it's useful! I like the look of that etch, definitely a cool font! Keep us posted if you do any more! :)
subbin... this stuff is awesome!
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 07, 2013, 05:13:48 AM
Thanks guys! :) I've done a pic tutorial on my pedal blog if you're interested;
http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching)
At the very real risk of repeating myself: nice nice nice!
No but really. Ever since someone on here suggested Dollar Tree Premium Photo paper, I've been using it. Apparently Dollar Tree has discontinued this item!!! Now I don't know what to do. I've tried like 6-7 different types of papers before finding this one and nothing had worked as well. I need a paper that will leave the transfer on nice, thick and dark. I'm trying a Polaroid brand right now, and it sucks. Press and Peel SUCKS. The stuff from Office Depot SUCKS! AHHHHH!
What to do!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Hexjibber swears by that Polaroid photo paper..hmm
I tried it and it just does not leave the toner on thick enough. So annoying. With the stuff I was using, I never even had to sand my enclosures. It did a transfer that well. Sucks ass. I really wish I could find a way to buy a bunch of it.
QuoteI never even had to sand my enclosures.
Wow, really? Got any pics? That sounds too good to be true! ;D I truly hope you find something because I hate sanding, I hate metal dust, and I hate having my hands constantly wet. I have a bunch of PnP left but I'd love to ditch it for something cheaper or better.
I believe jwar's no sanding talk. That paper leaves a really thick transfer that peels right off. I etch the back plates of my boxes now and I am more lazy sanding the backs. But the transfers were just as good as the top of the enclosure that I sand a lot to get flat. That dollar tree paper is amazing.
Quote from: jwar on October 09, 2013, 08:35:51 PM
I tried it and it just does not leave the toner on thick enough. So annoying. With the stuff I was using, I never even had to sand my enclosures. It did a transfer that well. Sucks ass. I really wish I could find a way to buy a bunch of it.
Wow, no sanding would be awesome, sign me up for that any day! I still stand by the Polaroid paper after a 400 grit sand though, pain in the arse but good results for me :)
no sanding....come on guys, you lazy sods.. ;D
i used to spray cars for a living so i'm quite used to a bit of sanding and graft.. ;)
and have one big arm... ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 10, 2013, 05:32:40 AM
and have one big arm... ;D
If I don't make any jokes about this can I leave the coat where it is?
how did i know you would jump on that... ;)
When I see a picture of a great looking etch that wasn't sanded, I'll believe it. Until then...
...if any of glops gorgeous enclosures were not sanded, I'm sold!
How's this? Just a few that I've done. NO SANDING.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/photo-2_zps2baaaea8.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/8D73925A-E398-4D94-A46F-0996AE8B4292-6327-000002EB69359ADC_zpsecb96395.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/IMG_0546_zpse099783f.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g20/ahartley/E50F4483-0495-49BE-AA1A-7520A7F58812-3355-00000248250A7750_zpsed8bf5a8.jpg)
They look great, the designs are fantastic. The graphics themselves are kinda grainy, part of what makes them look cool, and possibly part of why you don't need to sand, maybe? Look at these:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/y3uhy7eh.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/a3yhapar.jpg)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/99d62d5fad6d5e85e8df30aa1dbaf4b7/tumblr_mpek4ntjTx1s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_003.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130821_003.jpg)
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/b3cc38c43f213013460461fcd28a51a9/tumblr_mq3mcq1RQf1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
I'm not trying to start an etchant fight or say one pedal looks better than another, all I'm saying is that I like how clean these transfers are, and I know they sand their pedals in order to get it that clean, that's all. If you can get transfers that clean and exact without sanding, I'm happy to hear, it's time to start trying myself then. Nice looking stuff jwar, cheers!
Got myself a cheap laserprinter and did my first test with ironing and peeling the paper, more difficult than I had imagined, and due to a bit too much roughness in the paper peeling lost some parts of the design.
Also left to much paper residu on, I thought it would etch away through, but alas it didn't.
For the final box I'll hae to try to be even more meticulous than I thought I already was ::)
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/test-ets_zpsc3a6665e.jpg)(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/Ampeg-Sub-Blaster-Box-DEF_zpsbfd4378b.jpg)
Quote from: Trippy Demon on October 11, 2013, 06:14:44 AM
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/test-ets_zpsc3a6665e.jpg)
Sweet design man, that's cool! Etch has come out pretty well considering you said you had trouble, looks to me like it perhaps could have done with more time in the etchant though. what do you reckon?
Yeah, should definitely get more time in the etchant, but this test was more to see how fine the detail was going to be and whether the left paper would interfere with the etch, as it definitely does
Am busy with the actual box now, but I found the rubbing off of the paper again a tiring task... :P
What brands of paper, or thickness or glossyness are you guys here using?
I've got 200 grams HP glossy photopaper, but it's not as glossy as my inkjet glossy paper, and the fine detail of the print get's lost in rubbing of the last residu of paper... :icon_sad:
Here's the box top as it is now ready to etch, the white lines you see are actually aluminium that I scratched clean of paper
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/box-ets-01_zpsa7d29c76.png)
And the finished product
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/ASB-DD-box-1_zps486a81ac.jpg)(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/ASB-DD-box-2_zps310cc2ff.jpg)
Quote from: Trippy Demon on October 12, 2013, 05:26:47 AM
What brands of paper, or thickness or glossyness are you guys here using?
I use this stuff - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046Z1658 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046Z1658) 180gsm, pretty glossy. I don't have to do any scraping, just wait for the box to cool after ironing and peel off, it does leave a thin whitish residue layer over the toner but you can still apply the etchant directly to it and works fine. After the etching is done I use acetone to remove the mask.
That pedal came out good man, are you gonna do more etching do you think?
Tried my first etch today... turned out ok (if not entirely square!):
(http://distilleryimage10.ak.instagram.com/ce95f77437fe11e3a73722000a1f9317_8.jpg)
Quote from: therealfindo on October 18, 2013, 10:21:53 AM
Tried my first etch today... turned out ok (if not entirely square!):
(http://distilleryimage10.ak.instagram.com/ce95f77437fe11e3a73722000a1f9317_8.jpg)
Thats really cool! that graphic looks so pro. props man
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 17, 2013, 05:02:43 AM
Quote from: Trippy Demon on October 12, 2013, 05:26:47 AM
What brands of paper, or thickness or glossyness are you guys here using?
I use this stuff - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046Z1658 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0046Z1658) 180gsm, pretty glossy. I don't have to do any scraping, just wait for the box to cool after ironing and peel off, it does leave a thin whitish residue layer over the toner but you can still apply the etchant directly to it and works fine. After the etching is done I use acetone to remove the mask.
That pedal came out good man, are you gonna do more etching do you think?
Ordered a pack of this Polaroid from the UK, got it yesterday, etched a test today, but was a little foolish to cool the aluminium down with water, made the paper come of a tad more difficult because it fell apart and fibers stuck some more but nonetheless a much tighter etch result, 10 min. in FerroChloride, not very deep, but no pitting so it should be able to resist for more time in the FC...
The bottom part has more rough edges because I rubbed the paper off with my fingers and not that softly so the toner got more damaged edges
For the top half I let the paper dry up a bit more and rubbed it off a bit more gently
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/new_etch_zps8aa4d471.png)
All in all a much better result than with the HP paper although the Polaroid paper has to be pulled through the laserprinter for it not to stick to the heating roll, so I stuck a sheet to the bottom half of a regular A4 sheet to have the top half to pull the rest of the sheet through when the photo paper reaches the heating roll...
Quote from: Trippy Demon on October 19, 2013, 06:17:10 AM
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/Newtone/new_etch_zps8aa4d471.png)
Nice man, that does look cleaner, perhaps be patient and wait for the box to cool next time! ;)
love the little sputnik.....beep...............beep..............beep........ 8)
Etched this for an IC BUffer for a friend, with nice translucent blue paint..
(http://distilleryimage7.ak.instagram.com/0e8c764a3c9211e3956c22000aa802b4_8.jpg)
Quote from: therealfindo on October 24, 2013, 05:56:52 AM
Etched this for an IC BUffer for a friend, with nice translucent blue paint..
(http://distilleryimage7.ak.instagram.com/0e8c764a3c9211e3956c22000aa802b4_8.jpg)
Very cool indeed!!!
Taxi? Outside? For me? Oh...
Quote from: therealfindo on October 24, 2013, 05:56:52 AM
Etched this for an IC BUffer for a friend, with nice translucent blue paint..
Sweet man, looks great! I'm still on the quest for the right translucent paint, which type did you use?
^ came out great..love the simplicity of it too. 8)
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 24, 2013, 06:03:15 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 24, 2013, 05:56:52 AM
Etched this for an IC BUffer for a friend, with nice translucent blue paint..
Sweet man, looks great! I'm still on the quest for the right translucent paint, which type did you use?
I'm using Molotow cans http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/premium-400ml-transparent/ (http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/premium-400ml-transparent/) - I use their solid colours too (http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/molotow-premium-400ml/ (http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/molotow-premium-400ml/) ). They're cheap, <4€ per can), dry fast and are really easy to get a smooth coating on. The translucent ones really come alive with a few layers of clear gloss over the top. The only downside is that it chips easier than powdercoating..
Quote from: therealfindo on October 24, 2013, 06:18:54 AM
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 24, 2013, 06:03:15 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 24, 2013, 05:56:52 AM
Etched this for an IC BUffer for a friend, with nice translucent blue paint..
Sweet man, looks great! I'm still on the quest for the right translucent paint, which type did you use?
I'm using Molotow cans http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/premium-400ml-transparent/ (http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/premium-400ml-transparent/) - I use their solid colours too (http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/molotow-premium-400ml/ (http://www.molotow.com/products/artist-line/premium-products/molotow-premium-400ml/) ). They're cheap, <4€ per can), dry fast and are really easy to get a smooth coating on. The translucent ones really come alive with a few layers of clear gloss over the top. The only downside is that it chips easier than powdercoating..
Cheers for the link, I've not come across these but really fancy giving them a try!
Wampler Euphoria W.I.P.
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/26a1993f3477cabc0d31ad703afe4736/tumblr_mv7uy8QMLD1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
^excellent...cool design. 8)
Beautiful!, how deep do you make your etches? I mean off course can you show the edges from close-up?
I want my etches deeper than I can get them without losing sharpness, maybe I'll try your caustic soda etching next time...
Quote from: Trippy Demon on October 25, 2013, 06:17:24 AM
Beautiful!, how deep do you make your etches? I mean off course can you show the edges from close-up?
I want my etches deeper than I can get them without losing sharpness, maybe I'll try your caustic soda etching next time...
Thanks man! :) Next time I do an etch I will take a photo before I apply the paint to show how deep it is, it's approx 1mm deep at a guess. For this one I had the enclosure in 50% Caustic Soda solution for no more than 10 mins. Normally I add the solution with a pipette but for this one I submerged it and the overall etching time was much shorter so will probably do this from now on. I've found in general Caustic Soda works faster than Ferric so there is less time for the mask to be eaten away which results in a sharper etch.
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 25, 2013, 06:33:58 AM
I've found in general Caustic Soda works faster than Ferric so there is less time for the mask to be eaten away which results in a sharper etch.
Okay,
THAT has been my issue on my enclosure etches: Depth vs edge sharpness.
I am about to etch some enclosures, and want to give the caustic soda technique a try. Is there something else you mix it with? If so, can you share the mixure ratios please? I would appreciate it.
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 25, 2013, 04:47:08 AM
Wampler Euphoria W.I.P.
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/26a1993f3477cabc0d31ad703afe4736/tumblr_mv7uy8QMLD1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Jeez, that turned out great. Tip of the hat on that one.
First Etch.....Its a Kanji Eternity Burst in a 1590A....50g of Lye in 100g of H2O for about 15 minutes....and a ton of sanding....Maybe I went a little too overboard on the pattern!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39162371/IMG540.jpg)(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39162371/IMG549.jpg)
And of course, gutshot
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39162371/IMG539.jpg)
Quote from: hylandren on October 25, 2013, 02:00:20 PM
Is there something else you mix it with? If so, can you share the mixure ratios please? I would appreciate it.
Yes, it's just mixed with water, I do an approx 50% solution, so 100ml of water and 50g of Caustic Soda. Be sure to only add Caustic to water and not the other way round, you get a more violent reaction otherwise. It will heat up when you mix the two together so be sure to do it in a sturdy plastic container and wear thick rubber gloves!
Hope that helps!
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 25, 2013, 04:47:08 AM
Wampler Euphoria W.I.P.
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/26a1993f3477cabc0d31ad703afe4736/tumblr_mv7uy8QMLD1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
wow, nice work!
to hexjibber:
Awesome job on that last box....super clean lines....
now, I also did the 50g naoh to 100g water ratio, but i still didn't get a really "strong/fast" reaction...it took~15 minutes to get the etch to deepen even a little (<1mm), and some of my lines came out really rough. how do you keep the etchant from creeping into the lines? Is there anything else you do during the etch to keep the lines really clean/tight?
Quote from: pickdropper on October 27, 2013, 12:40:52 AM
Jeez, that turned out great. Tip of the hat on that one.
Quote from: therealfindo on October 27, 2013, 12:53:10 PM
wow, nice work!
Quote from: noobamp on October 27, 2013, 01:22:33 PM
Awesome job on that last box....super clean lines....
now, I also did the 50g naoh to 100g water ratio, but i still didn't get a really "strong/fast" reaction...it took~15 minutes to get the etch to deepen even a little (<1mm), and some of my lines came out really rough. how do you keep the etchant from creeping into the lines? Is there anything else you do during the etch to keep the lines really clean/tight?
Thanks guys :)
With that last etch I dipped the box face down in the NaOH for about 4-5 mins, then took it out, rinsed with water and cleaned the etched parts with a paper towel to get out the 'gunk', I did this three times in total so max of 15 mins.
Also when the enclosure is in the acid I keep moving it around to agitate it, I find this is important.
I think another important factor is the graphic format of the design, I use Adobe Illustrator so all my designs are vector based which in general gives sharper lines than using things like bitmaps/rasterised graphics.
I hope that helps, let us know how you get on! :)
Thanx for all the tips Graham, I will try them out on my next etch!
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 27, 2013, 04:55:31 AM
Yes, it's just mixed with water, I do an approx 50% solution, so 100ml of water and 50g of Caustic Soda. Be sure to only add Caustic to water and not the other way round, you get a more violent reaction otherwise. It will heat up when you mix the two together so be sure to do it in a sturdy plastic container and wear thick rubber gloves!
To reinforce and strengthen the resist mask, I use a lot of nail enamel. Is this caustic soda mix compatible with it?
Quote from: hylandren on October 29, 2013, 08:49:33 AM
To reinforce and strengthen the resist mask, I use a lot of nail enamel. Is this caustic soda mix compatible with it?
Alas no unfortunately, the NaOH will eat straight through it, or at least it did when I tried it.
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 29, 2013, 08:57:42 AM
Quote from: hylandren on October 29, 2013, 08:49:33 AM
To reinforce and strengthen the resist mask, I use a lot of nail enamel. Is this caustic soda mix compatible with it?
Alas no unfortunately, the NaOH will eat straight through it, or at least it did when I tried it.
so, what is good besides toner for naoh? I've used industrial sharpies for ferric.....
Here's a quick and dirty way to take the plain sharpie a step further. I've started doing this on pedals for my own use when I don't care to do any fancy artwork. I found a micro engraver at Harbor Freight for about $8, and it uses two AA batteries. I engrave the lettering and the fill it in with a sharpie. It's no where as nice as the etches on this thread, but it serves a purpose if you just want to slap some labels on a box.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/7D4EB060-CB22-47FE-85BD-83A146BD700F-4775-0000025B31D76E10_zpsd4252b50.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 29, 2013, 08:57:42 AM
Alas no unfortunately, the NaOH will eat straight through it, or at least it did when I tried it.
Yeah, that what I was afraid of. Thanks nonetheless for a speedy and informed reply.
I guess (for now) I will stick with ferric Chloride.
@john:
if you have a laser toner printer just iron on the toner, without all the etching/chemicals faff....toner is pretty hardy stuff..
this was just toner ironed on...no etch, peel off while still just warm...comes off cleanly.. 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_005.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 29, 2013, 09:23:03 PM
@john:
if you have a laser toner printer just iron on the toner, without all the etching/chemicals faff....toner is pretty hardy stuff..
this was just toner ironed on...no etch, peel off while still just warm...comes off cleanly.. 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20130929_005.jpg)
astro, what paper did you use that came off so cleanly?
Great point Rob! I can definitely iron better than I can engrave! Mrs. Danna has trained me well. ;)
^ me too ;D. i have my own iron now ::)
i used tesco's photo glossy 150 gsm..
i used the same 'just toner' no etch on this too...but i clearcoated this as well..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/P080513_00.33.jpg)
Tesco, huh.... Must be a British thing ;)
Welcome to DIYironing.com. I think I see a "Pictures (irons)" thread appearing anytime now... :D
(OK, I admit it - I also do all my own ironing...)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 29, 2013, 09:59:42 PM
^ me too ;D. i have my own iron now ::)
Do you have a schemo and build report for it? :icon_razz:
Preliminary info for another iron report: I pulled an iron from the trash a few weeks ago. I have been using it for pedal purposes ever since, and it's a good thing because this way I don't get toner and other gook on my wife's iron.
I guess I could post a photo of mine, too.
OK, here goes - iron pr0n:
(http://brain.pan.e-merchant.com/6/0/03915006/l_03915006.jpg) (http://www.morphyrichards.co.uk/Images/Products/Default/xlarge/HR40756.jpg) (http://vegannaturopath.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/iron.jpg) (http://www.ukkaya.co.uk/images/Steam-Iron-RYD3628-.jpg) (http://www.breville.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/2/image/500x500/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/r/breville_technique_digital_2400w_steam_iron_vin274_2_.jpg)
And apologies in advance -- NSFW:
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9f/Electric_steam_iron.jpg) ...this one's erect. :icon_rolleyes:
mine is like the blue one 4th from left.. my missus got sick of me nicking her iron, so she bought a fancy one for erm...ironing.
and gave me the ld one..now i can goo it up and not worry ;D
the one on the right is just too custom looking for its purpose. ::)
talking of household crap, i 'm currently reparing my b..... hoover.. :(
We'll be swapping knitting patterns next... ;D
Then you fill the water tank in the iron with etchant and after the toner is on good and solid, hit steam and get an instant etch. :icon_twisted: It would not be a good idea to fill your wife's iron with ferric chloride, so get your own.
Hey, somebody was going to come up with that idea eventually! :icon_mrgreen:
Great idea, Ron! :D This is veering seriously off-topic, but it's very entertaining! ;D
Quote from: amptramp on October 30, 2013, 10:20:27 AM
Then you fill the water tank in the iron with etchant and after the toner is on good and solid, hit steam and get an instant etch. :icon_twisted: It would not be a good idea to fill your wife's iron with ferric chloride, so get your own.
Hey, somebody was going to come up with that idea eventually! :icon_mrgreen:
Make sure you are properly attired before attempting this! ;D
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT-tIfcVWTfJzTnqloi9U1jIxSHSHtC4Acrh4jotkDgjupvrnv3)
Now I know who amptramp is...
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n509/Shankbot12/Baldrick.jpg)
my last one, just a quick thing...
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2649/y9nm.jpg
(http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/2649/y9nm.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/y9nm.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Nice.
And BIG! :D
Actually, looking at those HYUUUGE aloominum knobs, does anyone ever etch their knobs? E.g. a big fat "V", or whole words, or whatever...
[Prize for the first one to come back with a smutty answer...]
I've etched the word "cash" on my knobs, so when my girl wants to blow my money, she knows where to go.
Where's my prize? ;)
(http://www.comfortablyhungry.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/Sausage-on-a-Fork-300x271.jpg) :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: bluebunny on October 30, 2013, 04:36:32 AM
Welcome to DIYironing.com. I think I see a "Pictures (irons)" thread appearing anytime now... :D
How 'bout a quick video? :icon_mrgreen:
Seriously, tho... I ran across this page the other day...
The Saline Sulfate Etch
http://www.nontoxicprint.com/etchzincsteelaluminum.htm
... and, it looks like it might be a good alternative to using ferric chloride to etch aluminum.
~ Charlie
Quote from: moosapotamus on October 31, 2013, 03:51:27 PM
Seriously, tho... I ran across this page the other day...
The Saline Sulfate Etch
http://www.nontoxicprint.com/etchzincsteelaluminum.htm
... and, it looks like it might be a good alternative to using ferric chloride to etch aluminum.
~ Charlie
Thanks for the link man, just read through that and sounds good, will experiment soon and post the results!
Wampler Euphoria/Ecstasy finished, great overdrive!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/ytupy7en.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 28, 2013, 06:10:42 AM
I think another important factor is the graphic format of the design, I use Adobe Illustrator so all my designs are vector based which in general gives sharper lines than using things like bitmaps/rasterised graphics.
I'm such a putz....I used ms paint like we were still in '30's or something.....
Awesome job on that last box btw....
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 03, 2013, 05:31:17 AM
Wampler Euphoria/Ecstasy finished, great overdrive!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/03/ytupy7en.jpg)
That be mega!
^ yeah that came out nice man, .. 8)
what are you using to screw the pedal to your board ?.. picture frame brackets?.
My guess is its a lug that would normally be used for attaching a wire to a screw. One hole is attached to the pedal's screw and the other to the board. Great idea!
Cheers guys, I'm really pleased with the end result :)
The pedal fasteners are just bike chain links, cheap and easy! I'm not a fan of velcro so wanted something a bit more solid, works well! :)
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 05, 2013, 03:19:30 AM
The pedal fasteners are just bike chain links, cheap and easy! I'm not a fan of velcro so wanted something a bit more solid, works well! :)
Aye those do a good job! I used to use either this method or cable ties until I was happy with the setup and then get a new piece of plywood and bolt the pedals straight to it. I hate velcro!
Does anyone have any tips on efficiently sanding down enclosures to prep for etching. I tried it by hand, but it really aggravated the C.T. (typing all day, playing guitar all evening and sanding for hours don't mix)
I've got an old palm sander but it's trying to round off the corners and isn't sanding the center of the surface - maybe I just need a new one without a wornout pad.
Or do you think an orbital sander would work better?
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_22577.jpg)
Or a detail sander?
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_19675.jpg)
Or would something like a buffer/polisher work? (with the sanding attachements of course)
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_23212.jpg)
if you want the brushed ally look, then sand with a block in one direction back n forth..
orbital sanders will go in circles giving an interesting, but not brushed look..
or try a belt sander.. :icon_idea:
A powersander tool seems like overkill - it shouldn't need a great deal of elbow grease.. I usually give it a once over with 800 and then with 1200 or 2000(depends what I've got lying around..
You might find it easier to attach a sheet of sandpaper to a perfectly flat, hard, fixed surface and then take the enclosure to the sandpaper rather then fixing the enclosure and taking the sandpaper to it.
For a belt sander clamp it in a vice and take the enclosure to it making sure you're sanding over the flat platten.
Before you start sanding scribble some marker over the enclosure face to be sanded so as you sand you can easily track your flattening progress.
Thanks for the replies.
I need to get all the pits out before I etch, right?
Also, because i'm lazy, do I need to goto 800 to get a good etch? Or will 400 be good enough?
Quote from: gjcamann on November 05, 2013, 10:39:55 AM
I need to get all the pits out before I etch, right?
Also, because i'm lazy, do I need to goto 800 to get a good etch? Or will 400 be good enough?
You definitely want to get all the pits out, try and get it as uniform as possible.
I only ever use 400 grit, used to go higher but on the Eddystone line of Hammond boxes I've found it's not necessary.
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 05, 2013, 07:58:31 AM
if you want the brushed ally look, then sand with a block in one direction back n forth..
orbital sanders will go in circles giving an interesting, but not brushed look..
or try a belt sander.. :icon_idea:
You might want something like this:
(http://hi.atgimg.com/img/p400/13286/000999420001.jpg)
I picked one up at a garage sale for $30 a few months ago. You have your choice of straight lines or circular swirls.
Quote from: davent on November 05, 2013, 09:26:45 AM
You might find it easier to attach a sheet of sandpaper to a perfectly flat, hard, fixed surface and then take the enclosure to the sandpaper rather then fixing the enclosure and taking the sandpaper to it.
+1 on this, it's a much easier way to go and reduces the tendency to round over the corners quite a lot.
aluminum dust is somewhat toxic and can be explosive, just sayin'...
another reason to wet sand - it keeps the dust to a minimum,
Andrew.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39162371/IMG572.jpg)
I have to be more patient with the ironing....there are a ton of avoidable imperfections here but i cant bring myself to trash it......I think that's the kind of knobs imma use for it...A buck goes to the first person who identifies the young lady there....
Quote from: garcho on November 05, 2013, 06:19:29 PM
aluminum dust is somewhat toxic and can be explosive, just sayin'...
oh! :icon_eek:
well... I'm not dead yet... ;D
Quotewell... I'm not dead yet...
famous last words! right up there with, "watch me do this!"
Hey,
I didn't post new stuff for a while maybe because the last dozen of pages are absolutely amazing! :O
here are my last etched builds:
(http://hostmypicture.com/images/p1.jpg)
s.h.o. on vero
(http://hostmypicture.com/images/p2.jpg)
Fuzz face + lpb1
(http://hostmypicture.com/images/p3.jpg)
Bazzfuss on vero
(http://hostmypicture.com/images/p4.jpg)
Madbean Tube sound fuzz
(http://hostmypicture.com/images/p5.jpg)
Madbean OCD
All sound really great.
^ cool, love the style..
i'l ask, the bolt...drilled and plastic behind with led?..looks great.
love the robot too. 8)
Yep! After a really bad bad drilling mistake, I tried to "save the box" with this. It just a piece of plastic that I blurred and I put the LED inside. it works pretty well.
cool save.. 8)
Great collection Poppyman and the Bolt Volt looks like it turned out exactly as planned, perfect!
dave
awesome builds!
Awesome stuff, poppyman!
The Bolt Fuzz is my fave. 8)
~ Charlie
Sweet builds Poppyman! I really like the Bolt Fuzz and OCD ones especially, they look great! :D
Here's my latest one, reverse etched and buffed to a shine with a brillo pad! Done lots of intricate artsy fartsy stuff recently so for this I went simple and big! Can you tell what it is yet?? ;)
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/f00625cb3724bf2baae3bef9210c3b61/tumblr_mvvzvb5xwM1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
^ Nice!
Bolt Fuzz and Super Fuzz are ace lads, just ace. Totally love the save for the Bolt Fuzz, looks great!
Thanks guys :)
Finished my Super Fuzz build, love the sound this thing puts out! Posted this in the main pics thread but think I should post here too, I feel like I have divided loyalties! ;)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/44f9ce6c85562e098b26be78bedc6d7f/tumblr_mw4997CftI1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
^ sweet... 8)
Quote from: noobamp on November 06, 2013, 12:37:41 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/39162371/IMG572.jpg)
I have to be more patient with the ironing....there are a ton of avoidable imperfections here but i cant bring myself to trash it......I think that's the kind of knobs imma use for it...A buck goes to the first person who identifies the young lady there....
Lena: wall Known picture in the image processing community. It's also an old playmate :)
belt sander!
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 12, 2013, 04:24:28 AM
Finished my Super Fuzz build, love the sound this thing puts out! Posted this in the main pics thread but think I should post here too, I feel like I have divided loyalties! ;)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/44f9ce6c85562e098b26be78bedc6d7f/tumblr_mw4997CftI1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Absolutely love this. Really like the idea of an unpainted reverse etch. My hat is very much doffed to you matey :)
Quote from: TG Flatline on November 12, 2013, 07:04:06 AM
Absolutely love this. Really like the idea of an unpainted reverse etch. My hat is very much doffed to you matey :)
Nice one Tom, cheers! It was a bit of a happy accident after I went at it with a brillo pad, was intending to paint the recessed bits but thought it looked cool au naturel so just whacked on some clear coat and left it at that :)
Quote from: add4 on November 12, 2013, 05:05:37 AM
Lena: wall Known picture in the image processing community. It's also an old playmate :)
Ha! well played.....your buck is in the mail...
Well, another BB Preamp with Clipping Options comes to Life.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/616504_10201710295832129_2066057685_o.jpg)
I over cooked the etch this time, but still looks ok from stomping height ;D
(http://distilleryimage9.ak.instagram.com/fe531b5c509711e3ae4e0e5031106dcd_8.jpg)
Sprayed it creme and then filled in the etch with a fine-point molotov pen, and carefully sanded away any edge-spills..
Quote from: therealfindo on November 19, 2013, 03:12:05 AM
(http://distilleryimage9.ak.instagram.com/fe531b5c509711e3ae4e0e5031106dcd_8.jpg)
Cool looking end result man, must have been fiddly to do though! Don't think I have the patience! ;)
^ cool, does it come with chips?. :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 19, 2013, 05:00:27 AM
^ cool, does it come with chips?. :)
Just one... a TL072, no vinegar :P
Quote from: therealfindo on November 19, 2013, 03:12:05 AM
I over cooked the etch this time, but still looks ok from stomping height ;D
(http://distilleryimage9.ak.instagram.com/fe531b5c509711e3ae4e0e5031106dcd_8.jpg)
Sprayed it creme and then filled in the etch with a fine-point molotov pen, and carefully sanded away any edge-spills..
Ahhhhh, clever guy. I'm gonna put my posca pens to use. A decent layer of clear coat and it's gonna be a pretty good result.
How's those pens compared to Posca? If you've tried both...
Quote from: smurfedelic smurfberry on November 19, 2013, 10:45:17 AM
How's those pens compared to Posca? If you've tried both...
I haven't tried them sorry. I noticed that in the big areas it can crackle a little as it dries out, if I did it again I'd keep the etches fairly narrow, but not too narrow, and use a san-serif font ;)
Quote from: therealfindo on November 19, 2013, 11:03:08 AM
Quote from: smurfedelic smurfberry on November 19, 2013, 10:45:17 AM
How's those pens compared to Posca? If you've tried both...
I haven't tried them sorry. I noticed that in the big areas it can crackle a little as it dries out, if I did it again I'd keep the etches fairly narrow, but not too narrow, and use a san-serif font ;)
I looked it up, both are water-based acrylic ink, I haven't done anything therribly impressive, as in drawn anything approaching Zvex style enclosures or such,
http://mydiypedals.tumblr.com/post/64973214112/had-to-make-zvex-sho-i-made-look-a-bit-less-boring is an example with just one color. It definitely can crack up,
but clear coated it stays atleast.
Now I'm like, "Must....Make...Enclosure"; haven't had a good idea for one for a while.
Serif fonts are hard! I do the same thing with extra fine and fine Sharpie oil markers. The surface tension of oil paint makes it easier; less flows over the edge. Like when you pour beer into a glass to the point where the head foams over the rim but doesn't spill.
Looks good Smurfski!
Very meaty, therealfindo! ;)
Madbean Kraken (mutron micro V variant). Added a 500k (was originally 100k) pot to extend the decay range. Second attempt at using NaOH. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/20/4ytevyny.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/20/6eqasyty.jpg)
I really like that etch.
How do you like the Kraken? I haven't built that one, but I think I might have to.
Quote from: ch1naski on November 19, 2013, 10:22:03 PM
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/20/4ytevyny.jpg)
Really clean etch man, it looks great! Looks like you've got it sussed now, good stuff! :)
Quote from: Jdansti on November 19, 2013, 04:13:38 PM
Very meaty, therealfindo! ;)
hehe... it's a dual boost for my mate whose surname is Angus... so Angus Double Beef was the obvious name for it :D
Quote from: pickdropper on November 19, 2013, 11:56:32 PM
I really like that etch.
How do you like the Kraken? I haven't built that one, but I think I might have to.
thanks.
I like it a lot. It seems to have more character than the modern "auto-wah" circuits. Aside from not having a reversible sweep, it does everything a good envelope filter should.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_002.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_004.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_003.jpg)
^ Nice sanding! ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 20, 2013, 12:51:20 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_002.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_004.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_003.jpg)
very nice!!
Love that, Rob! Design and execution delightful :)
Super tidy work Rob! Etches don't come much cleaner than that man, nice one!
cheers guys, yeah kept it simple.
my mate who does great drawings wants his artwork on one, which might be a bit challenging...see how that goes. :)
Nice etch chinaski!
...you too Rob. Is that a Belton circuit, what is it? **edit: found the project, thanks!
Here's a Madbean Nautilus (Mutron III) aka the "Surftron", another greyscale etch.
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/SurftronIII.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/guts-18.jpg)
(http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l524/guitarmageddon9/deet-4.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 20, 2013, 12:51:20 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_002.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_004.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20131119_003.jpg)
Hello,
the King of etch! Great!
Greetings
Urs
cheers URS..not a king , just lucky. ;)
@guitarmaggedon, very cool, i like how the surfers face looks..came out cool.
@chianski: nice , are those 3mm leds just poking through?
Latest etch for a Suhr Riot clone
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/27/yjuge6yv.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/27/e9esuher.jpg)
Graham that is mint!
Quote from: TG Flatline on November 27, 2013, 04:47:16 AM
Graham that is mint!
Cheers Tom! Looking forward to getting this one finished! :)
Proper nice man... 8)
So I've been thinking of going the non chemical (or less chemical) route with etching and buying and engraving or etching machine. I was wondering if anyone has purchased or uses one of these? I've seen some very good etches that look like they may have come from something like this. So I'm curious. I know it's a costly investment, but it's very much so worth it to me since I do etching as a side business (plus I can etch other things like rings, guns...etc if I get the right machine).
Any help would be appreciated. I'm basically just wanting to know what a good machine would be.
A CNC router might work, I've seen kit ones under a grand.
I think you'll need quite a bit of green if you want a laser engraver like Pickdropper uses, but that won't etch metal.
...Speaking of green... :icon_mrgreen:
BYOC FA-1 clone.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/FA-1_zps1c36b49e.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/guts_zpsfbc62464.jpg)
^ cool, came out great, tidy build too. 8)
Why god WHHYYYYY!
The controls turned out perfect, but the main graphic didn't transfer properly. I have tried several times to do a toner transfer etch and this is my best result so far.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC08806_zps2d317509.jpg)
rough it up more...use a coarse grit paper man,...
what print paper are you using..?..
are you just going to leave it as a toner image on the box, or are you going to etch after?.
I'm using HP glossy photo paper. The one pictured I used 1000 grit paper to wet sand it. I always thought the smoother the better. I just used 350 grit to wet sand and it is cooling as I type.
Yea, I planned to do a reverse etch. I would like the letters to be raised.
One question though... Can I use the muratic acid and hydrogen peroxide method? Or should I go pick up some lye? Otherwise my only other option is weak radioshack ferric chloride. The diamond plate etch I did recently took a good 45 minutes for a <.5mm deep etch.
45 mins... :icon_eek:
are you keeping the ferric warm?..if its cold it takes forever..
i would go a bit coarser with the wet n dry...180 grit , then when etched use a finer grit.
peel off your paper just when cooled down..still a little warm, should get a nice clean image/surface..
place you hot iron on, and let it all heat up...then rub over it with the iron.
I'm going to loose my cool here. This time the paper stuck to the enclosure super bad. I got some of it off revealing a bad transfer. I'm loading up the deer slugs now
This enclosure seems to be impervious to any type of finishing techniques. The whole reason I want to etch it is I have painted it three times now with different colors and it keeps goofing up somehow.
It's really making me question my ability. I haven't had a top notch finish for a long time.
@Mike
If you can get another transfer like the one pictured above... Why not fill in the "bad" areas with modeling paint or nail varnish? It should adhere to the surface well.
Just a thought.. ;)
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on November 28, 2013, 08:18:32 AM
I'm using HP glossy photo paper. The one pictured I used 1000 grit paper to wet sand it. I always thought the smoother the better. I just used 350 grit to wet sand and it is cooling as I type.
Yea, I planned to do a reverse etch. I would like the letters to be raised.
One question though... Can I use the muratic acid and hydrogen peroxide method? Or should I go pick up some lye? Otherwise my only other option is weak radioshack ferric chloride. The diamond plate etch I did recently took a good 45 minutes for a <.5mm deep etch.
I only ever sand with 400 before doing the transfer. I would always give a thumbs up for lye, has worked great for me!
Sorry to see you're having such a nightmare with it, I would presume it has to the paper perhaps? Have you been successful with it in the past?
Mike has the enclosure surface been sanded perfectly flat? It shows a surface that is well sanded but if it wasn't sanded with paper backed by a hard sanding block the top may be wavy/uneven and not allow good heat transfer from the iron.
dave
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on November 28, 2013, 11:24:53 AM
Why not fill in the "bad" areas with modeling paint or nail varnish? It should adhere to the surface well.
There is too much bad area. I don't think it would turn out looking like I want.
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 28, 2013, 11:35:01 AM
I only ever sand with 400 before doing the transfer. I would always give a thumbs up for lye, has worked great for me!
Sorry to see you're having such a nightmare with it, I would presume it has to the paper perhaps? Have you been successful with it in the past?
I'll try some different paper. I think the HP that I used the second time was the worst issue I had. I had a hard time getting it off of the enclosure. I wasn't even trying to save the transfer. I was trying to get it off to try again and I HAD to sand the paper off :icon_eek:
I'm actually using your tutorial. Good stuff.
Quote from: davent on November 28, 2013, 02:52:15 PM
Mike has the enclosure surface been sanded perfectly flat? It shows a surface that is well sanded but if it wasn't sanded with paper backed by a hard sanding block the top may be wavy/uneven and not allow good heat transfer from the iron.
dave
Yep. I wet sanded the enclosure on a slab of marble, so it is most definitely flat.
Its the HP paper , I have the same stuff and it has issues. To much gloss that adheres to the toner and then to the enclosure surface and doesnt want to let go of the toner.
What happened to your magazine paper ?
I have gotten a few ok transfers with this paper you just have to hit it with less heat and start to lift while its still warm. I usually leave a tab on one side where I lift from that over hangs the enclosure. Ill start lifting and if I see some toner didn't stick down ill press it back down before its fully released from the box this way its still lined up right. Then ill hit it with the tip of the iron for a few minutes.
It's not you its the paper and the winter. Humidity and temps are bad all across the country for painting etc. So good luck!
try rubbing the skins of 14 chipolata's on a ferral cat, then run around your living room whilst dressed up as a gherkin shouting '' umbongo umbongo whoop whoop '
then after approx 178 hours and 7 minutes of doing this your chakra should be in the right allignment, and your mind in the correct mental state to approach your box...
first wash your hands and feet in vegetable oil mixed with high grade plutonium and a cheesecake base
now stare at the box from a distance of 4.7 feet and quietly hum along to james last's version of silver machine...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF2ODWluPlY
you are now ready to proceed...everything will now work perfectly. 8)
(disclaimer) the cat may have no actual effect on the outcome. or the above procedures. :)
^ Holy crap! That worked! What do I owe ya?
Well I tried magazine paper and it worked beautifully...................................BUT IT WAS OFF CENTER!!!!
One more try, and if I cant get it right I'm going to pepper it with bird shot.
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on November 28, 2013, 10:27:42 PM
Well I tried magazine paper and it worked beautifully...................................BUT IT WAS OFF CENTER!!!!
One more try, and if I cant get it right I'm going to pepper it with bird shot.
Consider yourself LUCKY!!!
I have tried etching an enclosure several times with PnP, magazine, photo, etc....
NEVER got a good transfer AND my arms STILL hurt from sanding flat, cleaning, and pressing the iron!!! :icon_evil:
I'm a lucky guy who just had a panic attack over this BS. I have tried 7 times in total to do a toner transfer on this ONE enclosure. And I have tried to paint it about 6 times with various methods. This enclosure is cursed!
The stupidest panic attack in human history. Oh well.....Klonapin, take me to that special place 8)
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on November 29, 2013, 12:23:19 AM
I'm a lucky guy who just had a panic attack over this BS. I have tried 7 times in total to do a toner transfer on this ONE enclosure. And I have tried to paint it about 6 times with various methods. This enclosure is cursed!
The stupidest panic attack in human history. Oh well.....Klonapin, take me to that special place 8)
Welcome to my world. The world where Dymo is as accurate as it gets.
Dumb question - it's not a good idea to use inkjet photo paper, right? I've been using some glossy laser paper, but I still have to scrape it out of the trances.. :-[
Quote from: therealfindo on November 29, 2013, 03:56:52 AM
Dumb question - it's not a good idea to use inkjet photo paper, right? I've been using some glossy laser paper, but I still have to scrape it out of the trances.. :-[
I use inkjet paper exclusively. Walgreen's brand is the one I've had the most luck with. I guess the inkjet paper doesn't let the toner fuse to it as well as laser printer paper, so it comes off onto the copper/aluminum better.
Another BB Preamp with clipping Switches.
I Won´t do another for a while... :-[
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/1461052_10201856043995742_1154441166_n.jpg)
Has anyone ever considered, after prepping, pre-heating the enclosure in an oven and applying the toner transfer using a rubber brayer / hand roller?
I have tried heating the enclosure up in the oven and then using an iron to apply the transfer and it worked better than using just the iron by itself. You have to be precise when initially applying the transfer, but it seems to work slightly better than just an iron alone. It does seem like a clothes iron is unreliable when trying to distritube the necessary heat and pressure in order to properly transfer toner to a medium. At least this has been my experience with both copper clad and enclosures.
I have used pcbfx's toner transfer method (using their toner transfer paper and their recommended laminator) for transfering toner to copper clad, and it worked AMAZINGLY. No fuss, no muss, done in 10 minutes. Their toner transfer paper works way better than magazine paper and I assume press n peel blue (though I have never used it).
I have been wondering how well their toner transfer paper would work with transferring toner to an enclosure, but I have not had an opportunity to try it.
What I am thinking is that, by preheating the enclosure in an oven, carefully applying the pcbfx toner transfer and the using a rubber brayer or hand roller to roll the transfer onto the top of the enclosure, one would be able to apply the necessary amount of pressure needed to easily adhere the toner to the enclosure.
Anyone have any idea if this may work or not?
I bought a cheap cast iron pan from ikea. I heat up the enclosure face down in the pan with the press and peel in between the pan and the enclosure. I put a digital kitchen thermometer sensor inside the enclosure and turn the stove on low. When the temperature gets to 300F, I flip the enclosure over in the pan go over the press n peel a few times with a roller before running the enclosure under cold water. Works well as long as I take care with the usual prep - good sanding and cleaning.
Andrew.
Can you guess what this is?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/IMAG1755.jpg)
I reworked an older box (hence the odd drilling layout)
My first attempt at a reverse etch.. not particularly successful, largely because the Molotow pends I used to draw the design just didn't stay once the etchant got going.. but it's a liveable result.
^ orange squeezer!
I guess being originally designed as an "always on" effect forgives having a foot switch 1cm away from the only control knob. ;D
Right! :D
One knob dr boogie....i win :)
Another etch...
It's a MBP project Kingslayer. Pretty cool modded klon kind of od.
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww214/InsaneKane-FX/Etch/KingSlayer041_zps2458f82f.jpg)
(http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww214/InsaneKane-FX/Etch/KingSlayer014_zps19a7aeb2.jpg)
Cute bear, cool etch man...
@flalconius , nice, mayan design?...i did something similar... 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 20, 2013, 06:31:26 AM
Cute bear, cool etch man...
@flalconius , nice, mayan design?...i did something similar... 8)
Worthy of a Sonic Death Ray Phaser :)
;)
Hey everyone - first post so I should introduce myself too!
My name is Nic and I too, am a pedal addict. :icon_redface: :icon_biggrin:
Contrary to my current rig setup (SG straight into a trace elliott speed twin) - I've always loved pedals and just recently was bitten by the pedal bug.
I was building a tone bender MK1 in a wooden enclosure for my father and whilst I was waiting for the parts to arrive I got bored and wanted to build some stuff for myself.
I'll post some images of the etches I have done!
1st pedal and etch I ever completed - Bazz Fuss circuit with a vishnu image.
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/wildechildbelor/bazzfuss.jpg)
It came out ok but I didn't agitate it enough.
I then built this Fuzz Face variation (still have to tweak the knobs), but the etch came out better and much deeper!
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/wildechildbelor/fuzzdad2.jpg)
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/wildechildbelor/fuzzdad.jpg)
That hand with the bell jar is an image I drew for the book I just published - realised it fits perfectly!
This is the latest - Tonebender variant of some kind hehe
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/wildechildbelor/fuzz1.jpg)
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/wildechildbelor/fuzz1b.jpg)
The orange enclosure used PNP and the others I used inkjet paper!
Thanks for all the inspiration!
Nic
Welcome to the forum Nic! Great etches man, your already a pro! Looking forward to your future projects. And congrats on the book!
Thanks for the welcome! Still have a lot to learn about pedals / electronics - but I'm really digging it so far!
Hey Nic, I really like the style of your etched pedals! Can't wait to see the next ones...Keep up with the great work :)
Hi. Nick...nice rustic style. Welcome to your addiction. 8)
Really happy with this reverse etch for my 'Aslan' drive:
(http://distilleryimage8.ak.instagram.com/d2bfacb86b6211e3a9470e8e37697600_8.jpg)
Used this (http://www.freevectorlibrary.com/vector/bricius_lion) image.
^ nice, thats like its been placed on top... 8)
Been toying with the idea of etching the design like regular, then rusting the surface, then block sanding so the etch comes through.
I just don't really want to buy anymore chemicals you know? (apparently hydrogen peroxide is the go if I recall correctly)
Anyone have any experience with somewhat controlled rusting? :icon_lol:
Quote from: wildebelor on December 23, 2013, 05:00:33 AM
I just don't really want to buy anymore chemicals you know? (apparently hydrogen peroxide is the go if I recall correctly)
@wilde, if you want some ferric chloride, let me know, I've got a bucket and a half of it in the shed.
Quote from: wildebelor on December 23, 2013, 05:00:33 AM
Been toying with the idea of etching the design like regular, then rusting the surface, then block sanding so the etch comes through.
I just don't really want to buy anymore chemicals you know? (apparently hydrogen peroxide is the go if I recall correctly)
Anyone have any experience with somewhat controlled rusting? :icon_lol:
No experience with controlled rusting, but I have some ideas. You'll need a steel enclosure. Oxidized aluminum is whitish, powdery, and ugly. Some ideas with household chemicals: Try soaking a steel enclosure in salt water. Check it every day or so. You could try dilute bleach too. It would probably work faster than salt water. I don't have any experience with hydrogen peroxide and steel. I'm not sure if household peroxide would be strong enough to work in a short amount of time
Quote from: Jdansti on December 23, 2013, 03:19:13 PM
Quote from: wildebelor on December 23, 2013, 05:00:33 AM
Anyone have any experience with somewhat controlled rusting? :icon_lol:
No experience with controlled rusting, but I have some ideas. You'll need a steel enclosure. Oxidized aluminum is whitish, powdery, and ugly. Some ideas with household chemicals: Try soaking a steel enclosure in salt water. Check it every day or so. You could try dilute bleach too. It would probably work faster than salt water. I don't have any experience with hydrogen peroxide and steel. I'm not sure if household peroxide would be strong enough to work in a short amount of time
I would say use a steel enclosure and use gun blue. After it's blued don't touch it and it should develop a thin even coat of rust.
I was thinking of getting some steel wedge enclosures, so that could be a great idea!
Still not sure if it's worth the time and effort but I think the results could be very cool :icon_cool:
For those having problems with transfering the toner and finding the right paper.
Get some labelprinting sheets, peel of the stickers and throw those away. You'll be left with the greasy feelingside. Make sure to leave the paper border on so your printer will get hold of the sheet.
I havehad good results with this.
(http://www.jnoeding.com/webpedalpics/question.jpg)
I've never done it, but depending on the grade of the stainless (308, 316, etc.), it could take a long time. You'll want to keep the temperature of the ferric chloride elevated.
+1 I tried once and it took about an hour to leave a VERY slight etch.
Electro-etched in copper sulfate, still hoping to get a perfect etch someday.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/echobase.jpg)
Not a lot of room for error in the drilling, the echo base pcb will sit vertically inside and the knobs will be on the left and the footswitch on the bottom right.
I'm already stressed out that I am going to screw it up.
Andrew.
That came out awesome andrew!
I think electro etching could be the next method I attempt.
I'm glad it's the safest too!
+1 came out nice..like the design too 8)
Andrew, came out great! I find one of these works great for getting the holes started where they're suppose to be.
(http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/gifts/05n5901s1.jpg)
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,180,42311&p=45502
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5357_zps7485758b.jpg)
dave
yep, good old centre punch does the job, it rests in the etched dot too..
i drill 2-3mm holes then use the 7mm..etc..nicely evenly done everytime. 8)
Maybe not as precise, but I use one of these spring center punches. Just press to %^&* and release the spring mechanism. No hammer necessary. Depending on the final hole size, I may use a small pilot bit after I make a dimple.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/Punch.png)
Quote from: Jdansti on December 26, 2013, 05:08:00 PM
Just press to %^&* and release the spring mechanism.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/Punch.png)
just press to swear? that's not much of a testemonial.
Quote from: duck_arse on December 27, 2013, 09:57:11 AM
just press to swear? that's not much of a testemonial.
I thought a testemonial
(sic) was what you whimper when you get kicked in the n*ts. :icon_eek: ;)
(Getting coat...)
(http://i.imgur.com/cSkD3Zg.png)
My second etch on a stompbox, still not deep enough to my likings. But I'm getting there! :-)
Quote from: duck_arse on December 27, 2013, 09:57:11 AM
Quote from: Jdansti on December 26, 2013, 05:08:00 PM
Just press to %^&* and release the spring mechanism.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/Punch.png)
just press to swear? that's not much of a testemonial.
I think he meant "Just press to co
ck..." There is a "%^&*-blocker" on the site.
Just press to rooster... ;)
but if I do decide to centre punch my "bad boys", I will still swear, won't I?
[aside]testimoanial. if you think my spellinks are bad, you should see the stuff I manage to edit out[/aside]
can I say "nice furry box", then?
Quote from: Jdansti on December 28, 2013, 01:56:41 AM
Just press to rooster... ;)
John - ever the gentleman. :D
I used to use a center punch for starting jack and switch holes before drilling. But several times, the hole would be just slightly out of position.
I switched to using an extremely fine tipped carbide cutter with the dremel, instead of a center punch. Since then, every hole is drilled exactly where I want it.
Hope this helps.
Quote from: Tony Forestiere on December 27, 2013, 06:50:13 PM
Quote from: duck_arse on December 27, 2013, 09:57:11 AM
Quote from: Jdansti on December 26, 2013, 05:08:00 PM
Just press to %^&* and release the spring mechanism.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/Punch.png)
just press to swear? that's not much of a testemonial.
I think he meant "Just press to cock..." There is a "%^&*-blocker" on the site.
Sounds like some type of contraception. ;)
BTW- These are great for shattering car windows. Keep one handy in your car for rescuing a child locked inside a hot parked car or the next time you drive off of a pier.
Or like the look of a stereo... ;D
That happens a lot. Smash and grab.
Been trying my next etch, but still not real tight, although it looks good enough, but I have to do some more testing before I get the clean etches I see around these pages
It's a D*A*M Meathead clone, and as that is a Fuzzface clone with one knob it wasn't a big leap to make the towards Mad Cyclops
I etched the back with a 15% Caustic soda solution, but that ate through the nail polish and eventually also loosened the toner
For the front I heated up the ferric Chloride in the Microwave and that speeded up the etching process big time, but the toner didn't transfer as well as it has previously done, maybe I need a better iron or have to sand the enclosure a bit further than the 120 grain belt sanding...
The cut through the cyclops heads should have been a sign telling me the box was not really prepared enough...
It's a deeper etch than any before so there is progress and it's still fun to do though, so on to new boxes!
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/forum%20plaatjes/MadCyclops11_zps919e1ef3.jpg)
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/forum%20plaatjes/MadCyclops10_zpscdafe04a.jpg)(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/forum%20plaatjes/MadCyclops12_zpsba17fe07.jpg)(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/Photobucket%20Desktop%20-%20iMac-24/forum%20plaatjes/MadCyclops18_zpsec2bffd0.jpg)
Looks good!
Yeah, came out nice, i love led eyes 8)
what's that pinkish gunk?
revlon No.7 nail varnish, magenta coral .
;D
Yep pink nail varnish, the cheapest I could find :icon_wink:
First go at an etch.
Used glossy magazine paper and 33% HCl 50/50 with water. Etched ok til i agitated it at the end and it ate thru a little bit if the toner.
The good wife hand painted it as I didn't etch it deep enough to spray and sand. I like the textured look, even if it wasn't the original plan.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/04/uhu6e7yp.jpg)
Any guesses what this one will be a clone of?
^I dig textured finishes too. 8)
Happy Newd Year Gents.
Here's my first build of 2014- the 'Freaky Fuzz.'
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_2529_zps9b08ef46.jpg)
Derived from the Ge FY-2, tuned the bias for my Russian trannies, added switchable output caps and a polarity inverter IC for -9vDC.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Guts_zps7ab978ef.jpg)
Etch, as usual, is printer toner, photo paper and Hcl & peroxide.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Detail_zps6e7d1acd.jpg)
Freaky indeed! Like it!
Quote from: guitarmageddon on January 04, 2014, 12:50:34 AM
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_2529_zps9b08ef46.jpg)
Derived from the Ge FY-2, tuned the bias for my Russian trannies, added switchable output caps and a polarity inverter IC for -9vDC.
how come they're all wearing sluggos/budgie smugglers?
They were on sale I guess...
Quote from: Jdansti on December 23, 2013, 03:19:13 PM
No experience with controlled rusting, but I have some ideas. You'll need a steel enclosure. Oxidized aluminum is whitish, powdery, and ugly.
This is not accurate. You can get great results with standard stomp boxes. Many are not pure aluminium and they will rust just fine with water and air in a few minutes to hours. You will find the results are not entirely predictable but you can get copper to red to black depending on the materials used in the box.
True- I didn't think about the boxes being alloys, but I'd be surprised to see a Hammond enclosure that oxidizes the way a hunk of carbon steel does.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/octave.jpg)
Another copper sulfate electro-etch.
Andrew.
Just posted this in the pictures thread but because it's etched I thought it was relevant!
My treble boosters!
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/wildechildbelor/front.jpg)
(http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/wildechildbelor/back2.jpg)
:icon_mrgreen:
Looks great, but drinking and building stompboxes is a dangerous combination. ;)
@guitarmaggedon:
that is sick...where did that come from?..what kind of story would involve those dudes lol..
Quote from: electrosonic on January 04, 2014, 07:26:58 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/octave.jpg)
Another copper sulfate electro-etch.
Andrew.
Smooth indeed! Nice one.
Here's my Woolly Mammoth clone. Still not completely satisfied with the etch. Not deep enough...
(http://i.imgur.com/GfMxE74.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/XI2XKwY.png)
It looks great! Love steam punk style.
+1!
Forgot to flip the image before I printed and transferred it.. oops..
(http://distilleryimage1.ak.instagram.com/6e8db2907ab611e3b0540ee34114bbed_8.jpg)
Looks to me like the writing is on the back side of the sail! What's the problem? ;)
Quote from: Jdansti on January 11, 2014, 02:17:12 PM
What's the problem? ;)
Well, duh, the ship is supposed to be sailing northwest, and instead it's heading southeast!
Working on a 4 knob Engineer's Thumb - I left off the threshold control. Have not verified my OSH Park PCB yet though.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/ET.jpg)
Electro-etched in copper sulfate (as an experiment I did no sanding prep, just acetone wipe and then press n peel)
Andrew.
I need to finish some builds have now have 3 etched enclosures to populate.
^ cool, thats really fine lines..and clear txt. . 8)
Of all the possible engine line drawings, you used the Chrysler slant 6? You should call the pedal the leaning tower of power, just like Mopar fans have named that engine.
I heated the enclosure in the oven to 300 F with the press n peel in place held down lightly by the enclosures lid. After the oven got up to 300 F I took the enclosure out and went over the press n peel with a speed ball (silk screen) rubber roller. I put the enclosure back in the oven for 5 minutes and gave it another once over with the roller before quenching with cold water.
There are a few blotches where the toner did not transfer. I was considering doing it over, but decided against it.
I was thinking that maybe I should bake out the moisture first (i.e. 300 F for 20 minutes then let it cool before doing the transfer) like people do when powder coating - couldn't hurt to try next time.
QuoteOf all the possible engine line drawings, you used the Chrysler slant 6
Are they that uncool? I always sort of liked odd ball tech.
Andrew.
Quote from: electrosonic on January 15, 2014, 05:25:55 PM
Working on a 4 knob Engineer's Thumb - I left off the threshold control. Have not verified my OSH Park PCB yet though.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/ET.jpg)
Electro-etched in copper sulfate (as an experiment I did no sanding prep, just acetone wipe and then press n peel)
Andrew.
I need to finish some builds have now have 3 etched enclosures to populate.
Looks great!
I would have thought a Hemi with a blower for a... compressor!
Quote from: electrosonic on January 15, 2014, 05:25:55 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/ET.jpg)
Nice man, really clean result with that one!
@ electrosonic - that etch is fantastic dude, proper impressive stuff!
A reverse etch:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/IMAG1845.jpg)
Cool. I like the splatter effect, too.
yeah, nice...what is it?.. 8)
First etch of 2014!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/a5amuma5.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/26/8edybaju.jpg)
Graham. Nice job and great tutorial on etchhing.
The detail in that is amazing! The eye looks very eyeballish, spooky!
dave
beautiful... yeah love that detail/ eye too. 8)
(that poor neglected white washer :'( :'( :'( ;D)
Nice ones, Graham and Therealfindo!
Thanks guys! :)
Nice work Graham!
My latest etch (plus transparent red):
(http://imageshack.com/a/img801/9679/nm22.jpg)
(http://imageshack.com/a/img713/6910/hsx8.jpg)
How do you do that red without getting it into the etch?
That is one sweet etch!! Nice and deep too but still clean. How do you get the black into the etched bit after the red coat?
Thanks!
It's transparent red so the etch is painted black before coating.
Quote from: Pettol on January 31, 2014, 09:50:00 AM
Thanks!
It's transparent red so the etch is painted black before coating.
I can never get the black to come through transparent paint so strong! :D
Quote from: therealfindo on January 31, 2014, 10:14:26 AM
Quote from: Pettol on January 31, 2014, 09:50:00 AM
Thanks!
It's transparent red so the etch is painted black before coating.
I can never get the black to come through transparent paint so strong! :D
I've only been successful with red. Tried a few blue paints but I was never happy with the results.
Stunning
+1...very nice... 8)
Quote from: Pettol on January 31, 2014, 08:12:13 AM
(http://imageshack.com/a/img801/9679/nm22.jpg)
That's so gorgeous, I might have to take up knitting towels. So I can throw them in... :D
Quote from: Pettol on January 31, 2014, 08:12:13 AM
Nice work Graham!
Thanks Pettol! Your latest one is a thing of beauty, love the design!
First 1590A etch, Moollon inspired! ;)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/03/5y6yqu5a.jpg)
Thanks a lot guys!
@Hexjibber - tried your technique on an A box. First it looked like it was working, but all of a sudden the toner just didn't stick anymore. Can you overheat?
love it Hexjibber!!
I always dreamt of doing an etch as nice a Moollon... This is right up there :)
Quote from: Pettol on February 02, 2014, 06:05:07 PM
@Hexjibber - tried your technique on an A box. First it looked like it was working, but all of a sudden the toner just didn't stick anymore. Can you overheat?
That's odd, I haven't had that happen before? Did you leave the iron on top of the enclosure for 30-60 secs to initially bond it before applying pressure in small circular motions? I can only imagine it's something related to the toner perhaps?
Quote from: Hexjibber on February 02, 2014, 02:57:12 PM
First 1590A etch, Moollon inspired! ;)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/03/5y6yqu5a.jpg)
Wow!
My new second-hand amp came with a third-party, chunky, not particularly attractive footswitch - taking too much pedalboard realestate, so I rehoused it:
(http://distilleryimage1.ak.instagram.com/bc6812de8caa11e387011237b9be8c69_8.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on February 03, 2014, 04:32:20 AM
Quote from: Pettol on February 02, 2014, 06:05:07 PM
@Hexjibber - tried your technique on an A box. First it looked like it was working, but all of a sudden the toner just didn't stick anymore. Can you overheat?
That's odd, I haven't had that happen before? Did you leave the iron on top of the enclosure for 30-60 secs to initially bond it before applying pressure in small circular motions? I can only imagine it's something related to the toner perhaps?
Yes I did. It all looked fine at first and I was about to stop heating, but then I decided to follow your tutorial all the way.
Yeah it might be the toner - maybe we have some budget brand installed. Same printer and paper you're using. Oh well, I'll just try it again.
Quote from: Pettol on February 04, 2014, 10:49:49 AM
Yes I did. It all looked fine at first and I was about to stop heating, but then I decided to follow your tutorial all the way.
Yeah it might be the toner - maybe we have some budget brand installed. Same printer and paper you're using. Oh well, I'll just try it again.
How unusual, as I say I've not had it happen before. I can't imagine it would be overheating as I probably had the iron on that recent 1590A build for about 10-15mins. Hope it works out next time!
I've had that happen before, Pettol, and I was using budget toner, too. I was using HCl and peroxide at the time, though. Also, sometimes I wonder if it was related to how OCD I was when preparing the enclosure (sanding perfectly flat, being absolutely certain never to touch the top after cleaning with acetone, making sure acetone has evaporated completely before next step, etc.)
Good point there thelonious. I'll sand it a bit more.
Really like this to work - those pnp Blue are just ridiculously expensive.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tmNqHFjfTOI/UvwDhvN8i0I/AAAAAAAAAUA/4Y9WwGXynAw/s1600/buttloder1.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p0wH0sb5p6o/UvwDjphjEKI/AAAAAAAAAUE/RNhkSEterOQ/s1600/buttloder2.jpg)
More pictures here: http://www.tremendouslunch.com/2014/02/kurt-butt-loder.html (http://www.tremendouslunch.com/2014/02/kurt-butt-loder.html)
I tried Molotov markers for the first time and really dislike them, for my technique. They left a strange residue on the aluminum, and once I clear-coat-ed the enclosure the ink ran and smeared all over. I guess they work well if you carefully fill in etched space but I do mine with a ton of paint and sand off the excess. Basically, the same technique as painting the whole thing except it's targeted. Oil paint markers work great for this but I've only found Sharpie and have way limited colors compared to Molotov's beautiful cornucopia, unfortunately. Oh well, thanks for the tip, it was worth trying, and otherwise, they're great markers, maybe I just need to change my game. Still searching!
@garcho: did you try water-based markers? They should be easy to rinse off if needed and shouldn't smear.
This is my first attempt at etching a box and board. It's a ProCo Rat using Tonepad's La Rata layout.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=50548&g2_serialNumber=2)
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=50549&g2_serialNumber=1)
Ha ha! Love it!
La Rata esta bueno!
Wish my guts could look that neat!
I find gel type pens survive rattle can clear coat well, and come in a massive range of colours, you can score a pack of 24 or something here at the dollar store. Also a great source of white
My first etch in 2014
https://app.box.com/s/93xoffnm8739uz4qeuh1
It´s a Chasm Reverb before boxing it...
Terrific etch and artwork!
Thank you. Yes, I´m a little bit proud of this etch.
But the next will be better!
I found a fluid uv resist that works realy cool...
Thanks for the tip Snarblinge!
My 5th etch and 4th pedal... A L*vepedal Kalamazoo using Ivlark's awesome layout at tagboardeffects
Since it supposedly sounds like a Klon Centaur, this one has a griffin on it, another mythical creature.
(I have a Brother laser printer... and happy with the results... don't believe the hype!)
(http://i.imgur.com/LmpGTbh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qlIECYo.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/K42oL4K.jpg)
The black mark on the left side is my bad... I should have been more careful with nail polish around the outside. Doh!
Finally starting to get tidier with the guts...
If you are wondering, I used an oversized pot for the volume in the top right of the gut shot... trying to get rid of it and it fit.
There is also some sillyness with 3 resistors in parallel in one spot and 2 in series trying to get as close to the posted values as possible just because I could.
(http://i.imgur.com/IPxEAea.jpg)
Absolutely stunning! :o I am really blown away!
^^Looks like you got some good depth there!
Quote from: mikitz on February 21, 2014, 09:01:25 PM
My 5th etch and 4th pedal...
Great etch. I have a brother laser printer too. Works great with P'n'P blue. You have just inspired me to attempt an etch on an enclosure.
Thanks for the great feedback!
One thing that really helped me with the deep etch is heating up the etchant to speed up the process.. it is cold at the moment near Toronto so I put the etchant bath (old salad container) in a bigger tupperware container filled with water around 80 degrees celcius. The etch above took 10 minutes.
I'm still having issues with some of the thinner strokes. After the ironing, there is a layer of glue or something over the thinner areas to be etched.. I am having troubles removing it on the thinner lines before placing it in the bath even after soaking in water for a few minutes. The acid takes a few extra minutes to remove this layer and by then the other parts are already deeply etched. I suppose covering the rest up with tape while waiting would work.
It might be the paper (I'm using blank glossy magazine paper from staples.ca) So this weekend I'm picking up some cheap *inkjet* photo paper like ruz suggests in his tutorial..
My latest build a Death by Audio Supersonic Fuzz Gun clone.
Still not completely happy with the etch, I'm thinking it's because of the poor toner in my printer.
(http://i.imgur.com/poDM8iZ.jpg)
great look and layout! :)
+1
it has a rustic charm to it i think. 8)
+1 I like the big lamp jewel.
is that steam-punk meets cow-punk? etched punk? looks good. others here point their guns at their pedals.
Nice one, Giovanni! The Old West meets rock and roll!
I didn't post for a while:
my last etched boxes: ("période bleue batch" :P)
refinished stock LPB1:
(http://t.imgbox.com/ehXJjwD8.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/ehXJjwD8)
SHO (vero)
(http://t.imgbox.com/L66gSXdV.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/L66gSXdV)
AC boost (pedalparts UK)
(http://t.imgbox.com/vhXworod.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/vhXworod)
Timmy OD (vero) -sounds ace, btw.
(http://t.imgbox.com/BNn8CBuE.jpg) (http://imgbox.com/BNn8CBuE)
Wow, thanks guys!
impressive stuff y'all!
see if I can finish this Echo Base without ruining it.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7417/12798454303_8d2b2f5ff6.jpg)
Quote from: garcho on February 26, 2014, 02:09:20 PM
see if I can finish this Echo Base without ruining it.
Sure hope so - me likey!
Ultimate Octave
Poodle's Pedal Parts PCB. Love the fuzz section on this, so heavy!
QOTSA artwork for extra Homme points! ;)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/a8a0bfa40bda4e3c12c94d971ca9f3cd/tumblr_n1qcgbdpLJ1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/1b35008e4ff8b2247d81e4a516fbe549/tumblr_n1qcgbdpLJ1s7epwwo1_400.jpg)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/e78eba1d540e46df472f88b363237e70/tumblr_n1qcgbdpLJ1s7epwwo2_400.jpg)
(http://25.media.tumblr.com/10b04e32949f9bcec8c46897cf3b5e1b/tumblr_n1qcgbdpLJ1s7epwwo4_500.jpg)
My first etched stompbox, a MXR distortion+ clone...
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/12865959633_450abc3b7b_z.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7351/12865951223_157356c24b_z.jpg)
Quote from: nicoo on March 01, 2014, 07:13:46 PM
My first etched stompbox, a MXR distortion+ clone...
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2848/12865959633_450abc3b7b_z.jpg)
Now THAT is an excellent first post! Very nice etch and great looking build!
Stay thirsty my friend! ;)
nicoo - you're making us all look bad, get the hell out of here. This pedal stuff is not for you.
SWEEET work! Jealous.....
Awesome etches guys!
Here's probably my last acid etch for a while. It's not complete yet , hopefully soon. Fighting a cold now and have a bunch of projects around the house I need to finish.
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/1393309532349_zpsbzoes33j.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0683_zps5wgsxrch.jpg)
Quote from: Mustachio on March 02, 2014, 10:25:21 AM
Awesome etches guys!
Here's probably my last acid etch for a while. It's not complete yet , hopefully soon. Fighting a cold now and have a bunch of projects around the house I need to finish.
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/1393309532349_zpsbzoes33j.jpg)
(http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s479/MCMustachio/IMAG0683_zps5wgsxrch.jpg)
Excellent!
+1!
Love the Queen Of The Foxx Age one !!! ;)
great 1st etch Nicoo!
Hey Jim--
Are the inperfections in your etch "by design" or do they just happen? I like the antique look it has! +2
MC
Posted elsewhere-- but, my etch technique is improving. This turned out to be a nice project. Everything fit well, and I was able to put the controls similarly to the original. Wired it up last night, and it works. That's the best part! MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/KLON_zps818775bc.jpg)
^ nailed it... 8)
@jim: wow the steel etch came out great, i thought the steel would've been to tough to etch...brilliant. 8) ferric?
Nice ecth, Mark! Clean and crispy, I wish my etches turned out so clean! Not sure about those knobbies, though...
Has a pink LED too, and the Centar has T*TS. It's a buffered Klon.. I named it Buffy the Centaur.. :icon_question:
I figured out I was overetching. I went with a lesser etch time, and everything just turned out clean. As DeadAstro said--it's in the prep. I block sanded 1st to get it flat, and used a paint pencil to ensure I wouldn't get any bleed around the image. This etch had a lot of dead space, so I just used blue masking tape mostly.
QuoteNot sure about those knobbies, though...
Funny, I was about to say that Italian guys aren't so shallow as to think pink = gay but then I noticed your name is Giovanni...
Actually, the pink knobbies are for an R-Rated pedal I have in the think-tank. But, I have to get my current "Sonic Czar" fiasco put to bed. :-[
Quote from: garcho on March 03, 2014, 11:57:17 AM
QuoteNot sure about those knobbies, though...
Funny, I was about to say that Italian guys aren't so shallow as to think pink = gay but then I noticed your name is Giovanni...
Haha, okay, I kinda look Italian and I do speak italian, but I am as Ducth as can be... ;D
Yeah the steel etches pretty good. I used really old, pre used, radio shack etchant which is pretty much ferric. It's pretty well spent and I was using it first in a cool temperature room. Noticed it wasn't etching all that fast so I transferred it to a warmer room and hit the acid with a heat gun for a few moments. That helped kick in the etch but it started to undercut some areas and wore away at the industrial sharpie I used for touch up spots. Overall not to shabby though :)
The ferric that comes in the pellets or powder would work great for the steel. I was going to try the NaoH because it usually makes for really clean sharp etches, but I read it won't etch steel.
That centaur has boobies hence the pink knobs, makes sense. :)
Quote from: Mustachio on March 03, 2014, 10:54:24 PM
That centaur has boobies hence the pink knobs, makes sense. :)
Ok, you convinced me! ;D
GGG Big Muff with feedback mod:
(http://i.imgur.com/FcdViF6.jpg) (http://imgur.com/FcdViF6)
^ excellent...i have that same robot too..
i collect robots..have around 50 of them.. 8) 8) 8)
Awesome Bot the eyes are perfect!
Awesome indeed!
+1 I like the "Chaos!" switch. Mayhem indeed.
thanks guys! :)
I always liked the look of retro-bots...
Quote from: poppyman on March 04, 2014, 05:34:36 AM
GGG Big Muff with feedback mod:
(http://i.imgur.com/FcdViF6.jpg) (http://imgur.com/FcdViF6)
wait a minute. that robot; that coil on his head. I just reading some thread, can't remember the name, but they was looking for a coil just like that.
Like a tiny reverb tank spring???? :icon_eek:
my new baby...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140303_005.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140303_011.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140303_006.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140303_007.jpg)
sweet !!!
Bloody hell, Rob! What the hell are the rest of us mere mortals supposed to do now?? ::)
Except build one, of course... ;D
cheers guys, yep , just build one.. ;D
^^^ Bugger. I was afraid you'd say that... :-\
^ get on with it man...stop avoiding it.. ;D
I hope you're gonna at least offer some etched boards to make our lives easier? At a huge markup, of course... :icon_twisted:
Hello everyone. This is my first post here and the second etch. is pretty crappy but I like it. I build into it the DAM meathead. hope you like it.
(http://www.imagehosting.cz/images/sam1204res.jpg)
Quote from: BLACK AUDIO on March 04, 2014, 05:19:34 PM
Hello everyone. This is my first post here and the second etch. is pretty crappy but I like it. I build into it the DAM meathead. hope you like it.
(http://www.imagehosting.cz/images/sam1204res.jpg)
Welcome to the forum. Your etch isn't crappy at all. It's got a lot of character. Post some shots when you have it finished and don't forget to show us your guts!
Beautiful etch as always rob! Love the design and depth you got there!
@ marc: yeah £40.000 whooooarghhhhhhhhhh... :icon_twisted:
@jim: cheers man.
@black, like peter says its got character,i like it, 8)
take a look at glops stuff, he's got a great style, its the imperfections with his retro style that make it imo...very cool. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 05, 2014, 03:59:40 AM
@ marc: yeah £40.000 whooooarghhhhhhhhhh... :icon_twisted:
I asked for that... :D
i'm @#$%ing serious lol.. ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 05, 2014, 08:49:35 AM
i'm @#$%ing serious lol.. ;D
That's no way to treat us hopeless addicts! :'(
OK, I'll bite... ;)
Quote from: peterg on March 04, 2014, 05:47:53 PM
Quote from: BLACK AUDIO on March 04, 2014, 05:19:34 PM
Hello everyone. This is my first post here and the second etch. is pretty crappy but I like it. I build into it the DAM meathead. hope you like it.
(http://www.imagehosting.cz/images/sam1204res.jpg)
Welcome to the forum. Your etch isn't crappy at all. It's got a lot of character. Post some shots when you have it finished and don't forget to show us your guts!
please! not
your guts, but your
pedals guts.
and wow on the tweed.
Thank you. As soon as it is ready, I'll show guts and the rest of the pedal.
PS: sorry for my english ;D
My Alien inspired 1776 Effects Suckerpunch. Definitely inspired by Glops' fantastic reverse etched pedals. Thanks to Glops and Hexjibber for help with the etching process. It's not up to there standards but better than previous attempts.
(http://i.imgur.com/eJ1khnA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/DfxSdso.jpg)
(Also posted this in the normal Pictures thread, apologies if that is bad form).
@Threepwood - That is really awesome man! :icon_twisted:
+1, I especially like the design elements. Good thought went into it.
I have a small pedal coming, I am going to risk trying a reverse etch on it. A buffer.
+1
great homage to Glops :)
Poodle's Centaur klon:
(http://i.imgur.com/XRtUcAe.jpg)
Poppyman - love your work!
Finished it... La Giovane Anima.
(http://i.imgur.com/TV0V9do.jpg)
Quote from: Schizo910 on March 12, 2014, 11:47:06 AM
Finished it... La Giovane Anima.
Sweet. And I am also jealous of that nifty old folding magnifier!
@giovanni:
what are you using to do your graphics?..
you need to use vector type graphics, (inkscape) exported to pdf to get ''clean unbroken edges''
for a neater etch...
:icon_biggrin: I'm a graphic designer and illustrator by trade, so I use Adobe illustratorCS.
I really think it has to do with not getting thick enough toner on the enclosure... I'm using an older Kyocera laserprinter.
I'm almost giving up on etching :icon_cry: I've used a waterslide decal on my latest pedal :icon_redface:
thanks, peterg! :)
Quote from: Schizo910 on March 13, 2014, 07:19:03 AM
:icon_biggrin: I'm a graphic designer and illustrator by trade, so I use Adobe illustratorCS.
I really think it has to do with not getting thick enough toner on the enclosure... I'm using an older Kyocera laserprinter.
I'm almost giving up on etching :icon_cry: I've used a waterslide decal on my latest pedal :icon_redface:
Why not trying an other way? As a grafic designer do you have some conection to printers like screen printers or pre press people (for perfect transparents)?
They are doing it with a transparent and uv light. This gives much better and reproducing results.
Try out some uv positive photoresist. There is one in Europe as a spray. The spray isn´t very good and you have to cover a lot of small holes.
Take it as a thick paste and roll it with a linoleum roller like this one (hope it´s ok to post a amason link)
http://www.amazon.de/Linolwalze-Metallgriff-Gummiwalze-120-mm/dp/B008PCWTAO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1394744972&sr=8-4&keywords=Linolwalze
under yellow light or something like this
http://www.amazon.de/UV-Schutzfolie-f%C3%BCr-Leuchtstoffr%C3%B6hren-alternative-Gelblicht/dp/B00AXPKQBK/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1394745073&sr=8-11&keywords=gelblicht
Lay the transparent over the box and do it with uv light. 2-5min.
To generate an etchable surface throw it in
http://www.amazon.de/Kemo-Entwickler-KEMO-fotopositive-Platinen/dp/B000YIYM2K/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394745292&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=platinenentwickler
Water it, dry it with a hair dryer and if the paste is a good one and there was no daylight or uv during the rolling there will be 2-5 small holes not hundreds as with toner method.
And lines can be very thin :-) like this one
https://app.box.com/s/93xoffnm8739uz4qeuh1
If you use press'n'blue peel, a good old office's or copyshop's toner copy machine would do the trick.
Maik, I do have some contacts, but I realy like the process of doing it on my own, finding my way. I could ask for help, but I just want to be able to do it here in my studio with the tools that I have... I will look into those photoresist methods you mention, thanks!
Poppyman, I haven't been able to find press'n'blue peel in my surroundings...
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 16, 2011, 03:06:16 PM
Couple of my latest:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Obsession%20II%20A.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/Obsession%20II/OBII%20Front.jpg)
@FrequencyCentral: Where did you get those protectors for the tubes?? Would love to get my hands on something like that!!
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 27, 2013, 03:26:11 AM
Latest etch for a Suhr Riot clone
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/27/yjuge6yv.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/27/e9esuher.jpg)
How do you do your artwork?
Pure talent?
Quote from: bungusbeefcake on March 20, 2014, 07:38:43 AM
Quote from: frequencycentral on May 16, 2011, 03:06:16 PM
Couple of my latest:
@FrequencyCentral: Where did you get those protectors for the tubes?? Would love to get my hands on something like that!!
you can get them on ebay
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Tube-Guard-Protector-PreAmp-Silver-12AX7-12AU7-6922-5687-ECC82-ECC81-6N11-/400679865738?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item5d4a618d8a
Quote from: alparent on March 20, 2014, 07:54:00 AM
How do you do your artwork?
Pure talent?
Ha, no alas I can't lay claim to the art itself, they're usually just Google finds that I trace into Illustrator. This one for example was an image I found for which I then made a background and added a fitting font for the labels. This method can be somewhat restrictive though if I have an idea in my head, I am planning on doing my own hand drawn art which I can then trace into Illustrator.
OK thanks.....glad to know it's not just pure talent.......that means I have a glimpse of hope!
I don't have Illustrator but I do work with Inkscape. Should be able to do the same thing with that.
What do you mean you "trace"?
Quote from: Maik on March 13, 2014, 05:45:37 PM
http://www.amazon.de/Kemo-Entwickler-KEMO-fotopositive-Platinen/dp/B000YIYM2K/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394745292&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=platinenentwickler
When working with aluminium boxen, care needs to be taken here, many of these PCB etch resist developers are 90%+ caustic soda (sodium hydroxide, NaOH), which just LOVES aluminium :)
david
Quote from: alparent on March 21, 2014, 09:51:53 AM
OK thanks.....glad to know it's not just pure talent.......that means I have a glimpse of hope!
I don't have Illustrator but I do work with Inkscape. Should be able to do the same thing with that.
What do you mean you "trace"?
If you already work with vectors then that's half the battle if you ask me! Tracing is just where you import a JPEG, Bitmap or other rasterised image into Illustrator/Inkscape and convert it to a vector image. Pretty sure Inkscape has similar function to Illustrator in that regard so you should be ok.
If you have any questions just let me know and I'll do my best to help! :)
I am proud to announce that I am now a member of the enclosure etching club :D :icon_smile: :icon_biggrin: :D :)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC09059_zps18ef47d0.jpg) (http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/haveyouseenhim/media/DSC09059_zps18ef47d0.jpg.html)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC09060_zps95da82e5.jpg) (http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/haveyouseenhim/media/DSC09060_zps95da82e5.jpg.html)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC09061_zps22de91d3.jpg) (http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/haveyouseenhim/media/DSC09061_zps22de91d3.jpg.html)
Nice job!
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on March 24, 2014, 12:00:00 AM
I am proud to announce that I am now a member of the enclosure etching club :D :icon_smile: :icon_biggrin: :D :)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC09059_zps18ef47d0.jpg) (http://s1267.photobucket.com/user/haveyouseenhim/media/DSC09059_zps18ef47d0.jpg.html)
You're getting pretty accurate with the lead shot, Mike! Nice job - looks great.
+1 came out cool man... 8)
welcome to the fold!
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on March 24, 2014, 12:00:00 AM
I am proud to announce that I am now a member of the enclosure etching club :D :icon_smile: :icon_biggrin: :D :)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC09059_zps18ef47d0.jpg)
Nice job man! :)
That looks awesome Mike! I thought you etched a few tube pedals way back?
Hey al , In inkscape under path try the trace bitmap option. Illustrator has something similar as well as a magnet tracing tool.
And about the tube guards, you can make your own with some washers spacers and bolts for a couple bucks.
Quote from: Mustachio on March 25, 2014, 04:49:10 PM
That looks awesome Mike! I thought you etched a few tube pedals way back?
Thanks man. I did etch a few but I was using vinyl decals for the mask. Its effective but really limits the detail+ I don't have a plotter to make the mask myself.
I just ordered some press n peel from small bear and it worked first time 'round
Ah nice I knew you etched a box before! haha
That press'n peel is nice stuff. What happened to that fancy magazine paper you had, what was the magazine again ?
Quote from: Mustachio on March 25, 2014, 07:26:37 PM
Ah nice I knew you etched a box before! haha
That press'n peel is nice stuff. What happened to that fancy magazine paper you had, what was the magazine again ?
Taylor guitars has a magazine called 'Wood and Steel' that works fantastic with etching PCBs. Not so much with enclosures. I'll send you one if you want it.
This is a Timmy v2... just for personal use. Hope you guys don't mind me sharing this.
(http://i.imgur.com/tG7PHg7.jpg)
it is a reverse etch, i messed up the first sanding so I had to do another layer of paint plus a clearcoat after, so the depth isn't really there anymore, but it still works.
(http://i.imgur.com/Oo1OvbI.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/MfMTeTn.jpg)
layout is from tagboardeffects.blogspot.com
i'd definitely recommend anyone who doesn't mind being on a waiting list for a few months to purchase the pedal directly. it is everything its cracked up to be.
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 13, 2014, 04:15:58 AM
@giovanni:
what are you using to do your graphics?..
you need to use vector type graphics, (inkscape) exported to pdf to get ''clean unbroken edges''
for a neater etch...
Rob (and/or anyone else who cares to weigh in) - when I print from or export from Inkscape to PDF is get fuzzy edges. Is there a way to clean up the edges before printing or during printing? I have created text and used the filter colour invert to make the text clear/white then create a box with black fill to create the mask. Is there a better way?
Quote from: peterg on April 08, 2014, 06:32:28 PM
Rob (and/or anyone else who cares to weigh in) - when I print from or export from Inkscape to PDF is get fuzzy edges. Is there a way to clean up the edges before printing or during printing? I have created text and used the filter colour invert to make the text clear/white then create a box with black fill to create the mask. Is there a better way?
How are you creating the text? Are you using the text tool in Inkscape?
Gradually getting better at this.
(http://cl.ly/image/2M2Y2O351r3E/Cornish.jpg)
Wow Jub! That turned out great !
Quote from: GGBB on April 08, 2014, 07:22:09 PM
Quote from: peterg on April 08, 2014, 06:32:28 PM
Rob (and/or anyone else who cares to weigh in) - when I print from or export from Inkscape to PDF is get fuzzy edges. Is there a way to clean up the edges before printing or during printing? I have created text and used the filter colour invert to make the text clear/white then create a box with black fill to create the mask. Is there a better way?
How are you creating the text? Are you using the text tool in Inkscape?
Yes I am.
Hmm... son of a gun. I just tried it and it appears to be the result of using the invert colour filter. Use white text over the black background instead of converting black text to white with the invert filter.
Thanks Gord. I haven't figured out how to change the font colour on inkscape but I'll look into it.
Quote from: peterg on April 08, 2014, 09:23:08 PM
Thanks Gord. I haven't figured out how to change the font colour on inkscape but I'll look into it.
Select the text/text object, then click the colour on the Palette (the coloured squares along the bottom of the Inkscape window). If you don't see the Palette, Select View->Show/Hide->Palette.
Quote from: jubal81 on April 08, 2014, 07:26:13 PM
Gradually getting better at this.
(http://cl.ly/image/2M2Y2O351r3E/Cornish.jpg)
Holy crap man! This is really awesome!
Quote from: jubal81 on April 08, 2014, 07:26:13 PM
Gradually getting better at this.
(http://cl.ly/image/2M2Y2O351r3E/Cornish.jpg)
Very beautiful!!!
Quote from: jubal81 on April 08, 2014, 07:26:13 PM
Gradually getting better at this.
Gradually? In this neck of the woods, we call that "immediately". ;D
@jubal81 - Sweet etch dude, love the design too!
Superb jubail... 8)
Hey Peter try Ctrl+Shift+F it brings up the edit fill and stroke as well. Also it helps when designing layouts in inkscape to use layers.
Nice Looking Timmy too.
Awesome Jubail
Mustachio and Gord. Thanks for the input. Changing the font colour instead of inverting it did the trick.
Dallas Rangemaster Treble Booster inspired by Black Sabbath
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/10256498_759887897378981_2866210874488107215_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/1506595_759889384045499_5081267484392127571_n.jpg)
Diysb pictures treads are my go to web pages.
The real pedal porn, with great artist all over the world contributing or, well, "performing"; I would like to perform too, but my boxes are always plain and boring (the good ones) or horrible (the numerous no good ones).
btw, nice pedal Enthropic_Dissonance, I assume that also the black innards are sabbath inspired....
Quote from: Entropic_Dissonance on April 10, 2014, 04:39:08 AM
Dallas Rangemaster Treble Booster inspired by Black Sabbath
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/10256498_759887897378981_2866210874488107215_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/1506595_759889384045499_5081267484392127571_n.jpg)
what transistor did you use ??
thanks !
Benoit
I used a military spec OC-44 from
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=273 (http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=273)
^ nice, and a decadant use of space...ahhhhhhhh....no squeezing. ;) 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 14, 2014, 02:33:58 PM
^ nice, and a decadant use of space...ahhhhhhhh....no squeezing. ;) 8)
What do you mean? He's got standing resistors, you never have standing resistors unless you're short on space :icon_mrgreen:
hi pelle, ;D oh yeah, even had the audacity to have standing components...brilliant 8)
It was originally going to be an IC Big Muff but I couldn't get it to fit how I wanted it to due to the depth of the enclosure. I had the veroboard with the rangemaster circuit soldered from a while ago. I really wanted to try out etching for the first time and I got the idea to do this with the rangemaster, a total waste of space but it came out really nice.
Quote from: Entropic_Dissonance on April 14, 2014, 04:52:33 PM
...but it came out really nice.
Yes. It did. Welcome to this place. I like the LED in the etched star. Very neat.
My last build, a modded EHX Bassballs clone :
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/13877338445_cef21fc4db_z.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2856/13877398163_587b072b24_z.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7186/13877334085_fdda8c9d8b_z_d.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3704/13877756204_ebc8735bc4_z_d.jpg)
And a quick build for a friend (he's Ribery's fan :icon_lol:), a MXR Distortion+ :
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7406/13877383023_a4d53b94f7_z_d.jpg)
Thanks to all etchers!!! After a couple of years building, etching, lots of tries... I´ve found my personal method to etch. It´s inspired in all your toturials and my personal experience. This is what I can make right now. In a couple of years more I hope that I´ll improve my skills :icon_mrgreen:.
Here you have two MKIII tonebeders with AC125 germanium.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/t1.0-9/10007516_542600582523321_1772290191_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/10157261_542600642523315_1066106467_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/603626_547598038690242_8088232991409625649_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-fra.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/10251955_547597978690248_2097713837938962855_n.jpg)
Rock on Boys!!!
8) 8) 8) 8)
Nice builts Alejandro!
A GGG Mini Mixer with 3 inputs in order to fit it into a 1590b box.
Does anyone know how to remove all the black stuff (carbon ?) From the etch to get a cleaner look?
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=50843&g2_serialNumber=1)(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=50846&g2_serialNumber=1)(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=50847&g2_serialNumber=1)
Quote from: peterg on April 21, 2014, 08:43:42 PM
Does anyone know how to remove all the black stuff (carbon ?) From the etch to get a cleaner look?
0000 super fine steel wool works pretty well for me. Looks great, btw!
Thanks Tristan. I'll givve steel wool a try on the next one.
Here is something I cooked up quickly last night.
Heavily modded rat with FAC depth control
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/fe0e5c522f6319e3086ffadac06d1c69/tumblr_n4dn7cptzD1qlg5mro1_500.jpg)
Quote from: peterg on April 21, 2014, 08:43:42 PM
Nice builts Alejandro!
A GGG Mini Mixer with 3 inputs in order to fit it into a 1590b box.
Does anyone know how to remove all the black stuff (carbon ?) From the etch to get a cleaner look?
Thanks peterg!!!!
I use the finest water sand paper available and also acetone. Even I use the glass-ceramic hob cleaner, use a good brand and you will see how it removes a lot of the black stuff. Nevertheless I never obtain a clean clean finish specially in borders, corners, tiny spaces... but they give the pedal character!! ;D
Posted in main thread but being etched.....
(https://scontent-b-mxp.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1098286_532687673514612_863838900_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/t1.0-9/1231327_532687490181297_292384013_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/v/t1.0-9/1795587_532687543514625_249185093_n.jpg?oh=514057f3e972cb02cf5f174dfa2d9ad6&oe=53CDDE83&__gda__=1405513429_4af7791d3f042e745d1ced1b18621801)
::) ::) ::) ::)
Very nice!
Are those clear washers on the switches, or are my eyes playing tricks on me?
Thanks, and no tricks!!! Here you have my supplier:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/231041027620?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
;)
You may have started a clear washer trend! :)
Quote from: Alejandro B. on April 22, 2014, 03:56:32 PM
Thanks, and no tricks!!! Here you have my supplier:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/231041027620?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648
;)
Acrylic? Have you had any crack on you?
alejandro - have you tried using a brass-wire brush to get those hard to reach places? nice box, by the way. nice washers too. they might go good on dc sockets w/ external nut (power-good glow?).
Quote from: GGBB on April 23, 2014, 10:35:07 AM
Acrylic? Have you had any crack on you?
No, after 6 months using them. And some have been used consistently!!!! So they seem pretty tough!!!
Quote
alejandro - have you tried using a brass-wire brush to get those hard to reach places? nice box, by the way. nice washers too. they might go good on dc sockets w/ external nut (power-good glow?).
Thanks duck! I´ll try with that brush next time.
For the price you can buy them and discover new uses for them!!
Good to show you something to all of you... even if it´s a simple washer :icon_mrgreen:
= Bass Filter =
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/34808_168016779904802_835882_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/156805_168016799904800_7381031_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/63429_168016806571466_7221304_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/155790_168016836571463_3999406_n.jpg)
= Zen Drive =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1.0-9/73814_158007814239032_7703081_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/t1.0-9/33699_158007837572363_4887661_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/68784_158007864239027_3255306_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/73473_158007897572357_3778358_n.jpg)
= Big Muff Soviet for Bass Guitar =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/71950_158007174239096_1685188_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/33930_158007114239102_3921392_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/71522_158007137572433_2004719_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/73584_158007160905764_6096188_n.jpg)
= RAT =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/72578_157988120907668_595253_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/73114_157988200907660_4524574_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/67778_157988180907662_5761788_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/73476_157988224240991_4249213_n.jpg)
= KOT - King Off Tone =
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/74275_163242430382237_1757919_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/148609_163242447048902_1274489_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/73654_163242463715567_269673_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/1898085_696455050394303_192488705_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/10004024_696455043727637_1948880976_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/1975225_696455077060967_1988528505_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/149920_163242423715571_410648_n.jpg)
Dude. You are on a whole new level. Nice work and welcome to the forum :)
+1 awesome work man... 8)
I posted this elsewhere but because it's an etch, thought it should be here!
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/fe0e5c522f6319e3086ffadac06d1c69/tumblr_n4dn7cptzD1qlg5mro1_500.jpg)
Heavily modded rat with an FAC switch.
All in a MASSIVE enclosure about the size of a bible haha
Made this one night when my partner was out watching buddy guy!
NB - that is a big box! I like the industrial look.
Mika - nice deep etches. What are you using for etchant?
so, mika, you got your etching method sorted yet? way to make an impression.
nice boxes, too.
= BSIAB =
(Brounn Sound in a Box)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1.0-9/250832_427511813955296_1777542039_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1.0-9/527871_427505480622596_1253341798_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/t1.0-9/208919_427511877288623_651168263_n.jpg)
[img][/https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/t1.0-9/557166_427505443955933_1060264116_n.jpgimg]
= Tube Screamer =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/71694_158010327572114_5296053_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/71542_158010340905446_6860304_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/67641_158010370905443_5978864_n.jpg)
= Screddy Mayo =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/539457_427497100623434_1583318965_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/602361_427482657291545_1152132543_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/403779_427497077290103_546691314_n.jpg)
A Ross Compressor clone...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/13998955246_c5f80c887a_d.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14018884001_9084f77474.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5159/14018880871_25fba83681.jpg)
= BB Preamp = Xotic =
(Examples)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/10155328_722347674471707_7000174927566384030_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/988883_722347671138374_165448914560299349_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10168123_722347687805039_4692432818340803944_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10314029_722347697805038_3112743125457360715_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/l/t1.0-9/970192_722347641138377_5762590376238124505_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/1922137_722347754471699_5473390033961072031_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1610098_722347834471691_1401696532061650076_n.jpg)
= ROSS Compressor =
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/72516_158011007572046_3416506_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/74424_158010984238715_2706065_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/73675_158011024238711_1943202_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/66378_158011040905376_1853641_n.jpg)
= Another Ross Compressor =
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10168017_722361987803609_382382510130758179_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1544400_722361994470275_408063836467435145_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/1907983_722362011136940_500328815051751633_n.jpg)
= Compressor DOD 280A =
(with vactrol)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1.0-9/10305069_722366121136529_2227395465498801139_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/10178024_722366094469865_895131751237691393_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/10157224_722366117803196_7449400532242302886_n.jpg)
= DR. BOOGEY =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t1.0-9/10257005_722373061135835_5113072278226256345_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10255863_722373054469169_7745090234131991236_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/t1.0-9/10152024_722373064469168_6544703056371192111_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/10171802_722373111135830_9142676174516865350_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/10155372_722373107802497_1063010457498737549_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/10300317_722373121135829_5847707486794673136_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t1.0-9/10274187_722373154469159_4128996885175112122_n.jpg?oh=09bbc12f4c5c306729ba1e7c45f80baf&oe=53D3BA1E&__gda__=1406098660_9176f8716d8b84afb9746be9b88a8419)
@Mika-Where the hell have you been to suddenly show up and inundate us with so many absolutely excellent etchings?!?! :icon_eek:
We're not going to let you get away with continuing to post immaculate work without sharing your secrets!!! :)
Quote from: Jdansti on April 26, 2014, 05:25:38 PM
@Mika-Where the hell have you been to suddenly show up and inundate us with so many absolutely excellent etchings?!?! :icon_eek:
We're not going to let you get away with continuing to post immaculate work without sharing your secrets!!! :)
Ok... tanks
"I had this doctor and all he ever did was draw blood. His name was DR. Acula" -Mitch Hedberg
= Flanger FL 301 =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/71742_158012144238599_1885379_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/69892_158012157571931_2329230_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/71954_158012170905263_1404701_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/33549_158012180905262_8330553_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/74061_158012230905257_2096433_n.jpg)
@Mika
Sweet builds!
What's your website?
Spring is in the air and the flowers are in FULL BLOOM!!
= MXR Microamp =
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/154173_166559713383842_5924506_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/155845_166559723383841_8093220_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/76901_166559736717173_7508389_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/148662_166559760050504_2147355_n.jpg)
= Neo Vibe =
(Big Box)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/74190_158013137571833_3518957_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/67611_158013154238498_1157336_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/39591_158013177571829_4437009_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash2/t1.0-9/37160_158013130905167_3522312_n.jpg)
Quote from: nicoo on April 26, 2014, 02:07:29 PM
A Ross Compressor clone...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2903/13998955246_c5f80c887a_d.jpg)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14018884001_9084f77474.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5159/14018880871_25fba83681.jpg)
Nice work Nicoo
= SHO =
(Super Hard On)
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/73132_158009864238827_3370097_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/74489_158009854238828_7027860_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/69036_158009847572162_690886_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/37165_158009837572163_1716216_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/68854_158009800905500_1468495_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/67280_158009820905498_5254832_n.jpg)
= MI audio Crunch =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/34401_158000990906381_5378421_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t1.0-9/66365_158000974239716_4476889_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t1.0-9/33641_158000937573053_3279404_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/69827_158000927573054_5921040_n.jpg)
= Patch Bay =
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/t1.0-9/33742_157981057575041_4305601_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/69004_157981184241695_2528642_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/73500_157981200908360_3136608_n.jpg)
Quote from: Mika on April 27, 2014, 01:28:48 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1.0-9/76901_166559736717173_7508389_n.jpg)
Quote from: Mika on April 27, 2014, 01:40:42 PM
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/39591_158013177571829_4437009_n.jpg)
WHOOOOOOOOOP THERE IT IS!! ::)
Found it :)
http://mrmika.wix.com/home#!__mika-pedais
Really excellent work mate. Serious kudos.
= Big Bit Fuzz =
Two circuits on the same project. Mixing analog with digital fuzz.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/10171008_723772874329187_555890633106795095_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/10258293_723772897662518_3238101045938570171_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t1.0-9/10256903_723772877662520_8078224024889177444_n.jpg)
= Fuzz Factory =
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/66595_158011857571961_4995355_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/69086_158011867571960_102000_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t1.0-9/72709_158011894238624_2056065_n.jpg)
hands up who thinks mika should be banned.. :D ;)
nice work man. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 29, 2014, 03:30:17 PM
hands up who thinks mika should be banned.. :D ;)
Dont need anyone BANNED but, it would be nice if he shared some of his techniques to this DIY community. I have seen enough pictures in the last 3 days to know they are good. ;D
Or even sharing some insight on his circuits, build notes, etc.
I know you get more hits by putting up the pictures but DANG..... it is beauty overload now! :icon_eek:
Half-Life logo FTW!!! :D
Maybe there's a language barrier.
@Mika- Você fala Inglês?
Quote from: Jdansti on April 29, 2014, 04:28:13 PM
Maybe there's a language barrier.
@Mika- Você fala Inglês?
yes... little :icon_rolleyes: but enough to speak and understand
That is good. You have a lot of nice pedals. Many of us would like to know how you get such clean etchings. Would you please let us know what chemicals you use? Do you have any advice for getting good results?
Quote from: Jdansti on April 29, 2014, 06:58:04 PM
That is good. You have a lot of nice pedals. Many of us would like to know how you get such clean etchings. Would you please let us know what chemicals you use? Do you have any advice for getting good results?
I use press-n-peel blue to transfer the design onto the can with iron. After using iron perchlorate.
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Press-n-Peel-Blue.html (http://www.banzaimusic.com/Press-n-Peel-Blue.html)
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Ferrum-III-Chloride-1kg.html (http://www.banzaimusic.com/Ferrum-III-Chloride-1kg.html)
So basically standard stuff a lot of people use, just with a lot of patience, creativity, and a steady hand ;D
Alreadey posted in 1590A thread... but it is also etched :icon_mrgreen:
(https://scontent-b-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10154023_555707827879263_2199777849207266850_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10329263_555707647879281_1952066340610603229_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/10305077_555707811212598_4148269597299786532_n.jpg)
Quote from: Mika on April 30, 2014, 01:54:26 PM
Quote from: Jdansti on April 29, 2014, 06:58:04 PM
That is good. You have a lot of nice pedals. Many of us would like to know how you get such clean etchings. Would you please let us know what chemicals you use? Do you have any advice for getting good results?
I use press-n-peel blue to transfer the design onto the can with iron. After using iron perchlorate.
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Press-n-Peel-Blue.html (http://www.banzaimusic.com/Press-n-Peel-Blue.html)
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Ferrum-III-Chloride-1kg.html (http://www.banzaimusic.com/Ferrum-III-Chloride-1kg.html)
Thanks, Mika. You do a great job with it!!! :)
Mika - Thanks for sharing your beautiful etches and telling us what you use. Inspiring!
I too use PNP blue, but use Ferric Chloride as an etchant. Is Ferrum III Chloride easier to work with? Sharper edges?
Alejandro B - Great Croc/lizard skin etch, man!
Quote from: hylandren on May 01, 2014, 04:25:03 PM
Mika - Thanks for sharing your beautiful etches and telling us what you use. Inspiring!
I too use PNP blue, but use Ferric Chloride as an etchant. Is Ferrum III Chloride easier to work with? Sharper edges?
Ferrum III Chloride is just a different name for Ferric Chloride, they're the same thing. Ferrum is the Latin word for iron, Ferric is (in my understanding) the English adjective form. The chemical composition is FeCl3, thus Ferrum III Chloride.
Quote from: vigilante397 on May 01, 2014, 04:53:24 PM
Quote from: hylandren on May 01, 2014, 04:25:03 PM
Mika - Thanks for sharing your beautiful etches and telling us what you use. Inspiring!
I too use PNP blue, but use Ferric Chloride as an etchant. Is Ferrum III Chloride easier to work with? Sharper edges?
Ferrum III Chloride is just a different name for Ferric Chloride, they're the same thing. Ferrum is the Latin word for iron, Ferric is (in my understanding) the English adjective form. The chemical composition is FeCl3, thus Ferrum III Chloride.
You've almost got it.
When some chemicals react, some of the electrons from one reactant will swap over to the other reactant. This is so that the valence (outer) electron shell is completely full. Some elements (metals) need to get rid of a few electrons to get a full valence shell, whereas others (nonmetals on the right hand side of the periodic table) need to gain only a few electrons to get a full shell. Some elements, those on the column furthest to the right, already have a full valence shell nd thus will not react with anything (these are called noble gases). When these elements react and swap electrons, one element becomes positively charged (more protons in the nucleus than electrons in the electron shells) whereas the other element becomes negatively charged (more electrons in the electron shells than protons in the nucleus). These charged particles are called ions.
Just like magnetic fields of opposite polarities, these positively and negatively charged ions stick together, which is called an ionic bond. When you look at ionic bonds formed by elements in the middle of the periodic table, things start to get a bit messy. Elements like iron can lose either 2 or 3 electrons. Chemists have to differentiate between these two different iron ions, so they give them different names. Fe
2+, or iron (II) is the iron ion that has lost 2 electrons, while Fe
3+, or iron (III) is the one that has lost 3 electrons. There are older names for these different iron ions, Ferrous (Fe
2+) and Ferric (Fe
3+)
FeCl
3 has the Iron (III) ion in it, which is why it's called ferric chloride. Ferrum is the latin word for iron, as you said, so Ferrum (III) is the same as Iron (III) and Ferric.
Sorry about the chemistry lesson, BTW.
vigilante397 and psychedelicfish thanks for the explanations.
Perhaps I should have already known that, but sadly, I am the product of a small rural Texas school system... :icon_redface:
psychedelicfish, my thoughts while reading your explanation reminded me of a line from a Don Henley song:
"She looked at me,
uncomprehendingly,
like a cow at a passing train."
:icon_lol:
>Sorry about the chemistry lesson, BTW.
But you didn't explain the d3 orbital geometry... ;D
I love this forum.
I just found out the downtown Chicago library has a 3D printer and laser etching lab... :o
Quote from: garcho on May 02, 2014, 01:09:15 PM
I love this forum.
I just found out the downtown Chicago library has a 3D printer and laser etching lab... :o
Pics or it didn't happen ;)
Since we´re talking about acids and finishes, I wanted to share my method and tools to etch. I´m going to make a quick guide, if someone needs more, let me know it and i´ll try to expand details:
- I begin with a quality negative of my desing printed in a laser printer. I go to a copy shop where I obtain quality copies in glossy paper, very similar to those used in quality gossip press :icon_mrgreen:. I ask for glossy paper (not the kind used in photos, just glossy but still without that characteristic plastic feeling of photo papers. Hope you understand me).
- After wet sanding the enclosure with grain 360 and 500, I clean it with soap. You can use any product, but soap is good.
- Strong ironing going over the whole surface with the tip of the iron. I make all possible direcctions (vertical, horizontal, both diagonls) leaving the flat of the iron some minutes between each direcction.
- When I see all paper stick to the encluse I leave it to get cold before putting it into water.
- I leave it in water until it peels off alone.
- Remove all the cellulose with your finger and check everything have transferred ok.
- Steal nearer nail polish (can also be yours :icon_mrgreen:) and with a thin brush protect everything you can. Also make a border throughout the whole top of the enclosure to avoid acid leaks.
- Mix 1 part of nitirc acid (agua fuerte in Spain, stong liquid used to clean filthy things like forgotten baths :icon_mrgreen:) with 2 parts of 10% hydrogen peroxide (the one used to cure little wounds)
- Put it in each etchable part with a dropper. Don´t make lakes with acid, put what you need avoiding bubbles (if it bubbles means that you put too much)
- After 3-4 minutes remove the acid with a cottom ball and put new acid.
- Repeat this boredom for 1 hour and a quarter.
- In the last 20 minutes you can add more acid to the enclosure if you want a deep etch. But be carefull, the process at this stage can deceive you.
- Also in this last 20 minutes (more or less, with practice you "feel" what´s going on) you can use the cottom ball to remove part of the black stuff created due to the acid action. Helps to improve the depth.
- After all this is done, clean with water in a safe place (don´t spoil nothing or your wife/mother will have some words with you) and make sure that the etching has been depth enough.
- Clean the whole thing with several cotton balls coated with nail polish remover (the one with acetone)
After all this you can end in two ways:
- Paint in black (choose your color) all the etched areas, correct with wet sanding, polish and clear coat.
- Don´t paint the etched desings, clean it to the bone, polish and clear coat.
For polish I use my drill and those two famous compounds (the blue one and the brown one).
Hope it helps you as much as all tutorials in this forum have help me!!!
PS: Someone asked for a tutorial while I was writting mine... here it goes my humble experience.
Quote from: Alejandro B. on April 30, 2014, 03:11:14 PM
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10329263_555707647879281_1952066340610603229_n.jpg)
That washer looks downright acrylicious! (The etch isn't so bad either :icon_mrgreen:)
I would like to ask if its normal for etch to leave black weird color on the enclosure that you have to sand down?
This happened to two of my etches and first i thought its the etching substance and change it to something else and same thing happened...
Anyone got a clue why this happens?
Could it be the laser printer "color"? (Using the laser and heat method to put the label on the enclosure)
do you mean the toner goes greyish when ironed on?.. that is normal.
or the metal part that is etched?...if so that is why most of us give it a shot of black to make it more defined (matt in my case)
Back with three more pedals
MXR Distortion II
Univox Super-Fuzz (first pedal I ever built, gave the enclosure an overhaul)
EHX Big Muff (Op-Amp version)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/p526x296/10312679_772550839446020_2805721109185276568_n.jpg)
Catalinbread SFT / Madbean Faultline
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/5aaf189e570be2a7844ff69837d50975/tumblr_n547paJDnQ1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
^ jaw dropping, bravo!
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/ad34f12a09a4a9ffb9c3ed3a10f9f17b/tumblr_n574klY1Jn1qlg5mro1_500.jpg)
Sonic Violence with FAC depth control!
Ross Comp
(https://31.media.tumblr.com/e50865e5091472379f4c244601766c04/tumblr_n5gcz9kqkL1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
Quote from: wildebelor on May 07, 2014, 05:48:18 PM
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/ad34f12a09a4a9ffb9c3ed3a10f9f17b/tumblr_n574klY1Jn1qlg5mro1_500.jpg)
Sonic Violence with FAC depth control!
Really like the look of these man! The oversize enclosure is cool, what size are they? I've got a Pharaoh to build and have been thinking about doing a big box for it.
What circuit is it btw?
Quote from: Hexjibber on May 12, 2014, 05:03:11 AM
Really like the look of these man! The oversize enclosure is cool, what size are they? I've got a Pharaoh to build and have been thinking about doing a big box for it.
What circuit is it btw?
It's a heavy modded rat with the FAC control - secret sauce!
Quote from: wildebelor on May 14, 2014, 09:01:25 PM
It's a heavy modded rat with the FAC control - secret sauce!
Cool, I've still not built a Rat yet, was thinking about doing a pedal that stacks two together for some ultra doom! I'm a Sunn O))) fan haha! Do they need fiddling with to get a good low end from or are they ok stock?
Also could you tell me what size enclosure that is, I think I've found one similar that is 146mm x 120mm, I quite like the idea of doing a bigger box as I've mainly stuck to 1590Bs so far. I've got a Pharaoh build to do so a big enclosure seems appropriate! :)
Yeah I'm about to go see them play with Earth! It's going to be amazing.
I think it's a 1590DD enclosure.
It's also pretty excellent stock! My Laney AOR has the pots you can pull to add extra boost in frequencies... I dime my bass and pull the pot for huge bass.
That being said, two rats together isn't anything as special as I thought it would be.
A rat and heavier fuzz of some kind (maybe a dark meathead) would be what I would do!
:icon_cool:
Quote from: wildebelor on May 16, 2014, 06:24:12 PM
Yeah I'm about to go see them play with Earth! It's going to be amazing.
I saw them with a quadraphonic PA set up a couple of years ago, nowhere to hide! Was brutal!! Amazing though. Hope you enjoy/did enjoy the gig!
Quote from: wildebelor on May 16, 2014, 06:24:12 PM
A rat and heavier fuzz of some kind (maybe a dark meathead) would be what I would do!
Now
that is a great idea, definitely got the ol' cogs turning! :)
A couple bees... one has a bear (foot), one does not.
(http://i.imgur.com/vpYOfeA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/khNEJHI.jpg)
Quote from: mikitz on May 27, 2014, 08:11:35 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/vpYOfeA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/khNEJHI.jpg)
These look great man! Very neat job on the etching and I like the use of colour, I keep thinking about trying a reverse etch with colour myself but it's still on the to-do list!
+1 , thry have a nice retro look about them colour wise...nice. :icon_cool:
@hex: of all the etches ive done ive never done a reverse either....one day eh.. :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 28, 2014, 05:30:17 AM
@hex: of all the etches ive done ive never done a reverse either....one day eh.. :)
Yeah man, I've done a few reverse jobs but always just stuck with good ol' black enamel for some reason! :)
A reverse one I did recently;
(http://24.media.tumblr.com/5aaf189e570be2a7844ff69837d50975/tumblr_n547paJDnQ1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
Seen some great looking ones using colour instead, they can really pop out!
Check these out, from a chap (selfdestroyer) over on the Madbean forum, I think they look great;
(http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140504-232759.jpg)
(http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140505-195448.jpg)
(http://music.codydeschenes.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/20140504-005116.jpg)
yeah i see what you mean, very nice.. 8)
the black is classic though..your design with the green jewel looks the nuts with that grill at the bottom too. cool. 8)
i'm surprised that a lot of people ake photos without the led/light on...(avoiding glare i guess) but i love a good light. 8)
Quote from: mikitz on May 27, 2014, 08:11:35 PM
A couple bees... one has a bear (foot), one does not.
(http://i.imgur.com/vpYOfeA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/khNEJHI.jpg)
very subtle. I would say very minimalist too, but I keep wondering "where did all that metal go?" where did all that metal go? how deep an etch did you do (I hope the answer is "a minimal amount")?
seems to be a lot of yellow in builds lately.
Quote from: duck_arse on May 28, 2014, 07:40:24 AM
...but I keep wondering "where did all that metal go?" where did all that metal go?...
Probably down the dunny (with the etchant), mate! :)
david
Thanks for the nice comments. I used Tremclad (same as Rustoleum) and then regular enamel to get a deeper yellow... although next time I'd just do all tremclad. Lighter colours like yellow are a pain to cover (for me anyway).
I've made 9 pedals so far and still reusing the same ferric chloride! Found a great post from Mark Hammer for disposing of Ferric Chloride when the time comes.. http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=50426.msg377103#msg377103
Hi there folks!
Here's my tries at etching... damn it's hard. :P
I can't how some people manage to do those super clean etches.
My third was a complete disaster.. :icon_cry: But the last one turned out good, finally!
I've had no luck with ferrit cloride. Tried Cautic Soda on the last one.
Followed the tutorial by DIY guitar effects and it turned out much better. :icon_biggrin:
The Caustic Soda seemed to not eat away the toner as fast.
(http://parasitstudio.weebly.com/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/3173760_orig.jpg)
Cheers
/ Fredrik
Hey Freppo, try different paper, that was the key for me anyway. Are you using inkjet photo paper with a laser printer? I found cheap dollar store inkjet photo paper worked the best... doesn't require any soaking at all.
Quote from: mikitz on May 28, 2014, 09:23:27 PM
Hey Freppo, try different paper, that was the key for me anyway. Are you using inkjet photo paper with a laser printer? I found cheap dollar store inkjet photo paper worked the best... doesn't require any soaking at all.
Thanks for the tip! I will try different papers
cheers / Freppo
Quote from: mikitz on May 28, 2014, 09:23:27 PM
Hey Freppo, try different paper, that was the key for me anyway. Are you using inkjet photo paper with a laser printer? I found cheap dollar store inkjet photo paper worked the best... doesn't require any soaking at all.
Press and Peel Blue works the best, and works with Ferric Chloride, it's pricey but I could never get photo paper to transfer nicely. and this saves a lot of hassle and time. since sanding a failed transfer off get annoying after the eighth time.
spray paint the sides and inside of the box with a cheap flat black paint. (If you sanded it fine enough the paint will sand off with 600 grit with ease)
then use an enamel touch up paint to cover the rest of the exposed areas.
the inside can stay black, this will also prevent shorting.
it really depends on what paper you have, ive used tesco's home brand glossy forever and it works flawlessly,
just let the box cool a little and peel off..no gunk, no fuss, .YMMV...
I went through the whole paper hunt fiasco. Best paper I found for the money is "HP Premium Presentation Paper 120g"
Product #CG988A
Used some today-- look at the etch/my post in the 1590A thread. I'm defintely getting better at it.
MC
This is my first (and so far last) etching attempt. Either I'm really bad at this or I made it difficult by using a steel enclosure (footswitch from a Marshall amplifier). Or probably both. Either way, this is my Steel RAT.
(http://i.imgur.com/UsCUrHA.jpg)
Quote from: vigilante397 on June 02, 2014, 05:54:55 PM
. . . this is my Steel RAT.
Harry Harrison (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_Steel_Rat) would've been proud. :)
That steel Rat looks great! I Used the exact same Marshall switch for a custom '19inch flipster and wanted to use metal letter stamps, but gave up because that steel is really tough. I bet it was difficult to etch as well?
Quote from: Liquitone on June 03, 2014, 05:05:44 AM
That steel Rat looks great! I Used the exact same Marshall switch for a custom '19inch flipster and wanted to use metal letter stamps, but gave up because that steel is really tough. I bet it was difficult to etch as well?
I guess I've never really tried etching aluminum so I have nothing to compare it to (aside from copper clad :icon_rolleyes:) but it definitely took several gallons of ferric with a few dragons heating and aggravating it for several years :icon_eek:
Does aluminum etch easier than stainless steel? :icon_eek:
WHY DIDN'T ANYONE TELL ME?
I have never etched before so can't say for sure, but I wouldn't be surprised if aluminium will be much easier to etch.
Quote from: Freppo on May 28, 2014, 03:27:23 PM
Tried Cautic Soda on the last one.
Followed the tutorial by DIY guitar effects and it turned out much better. :icon_biggrin:
The Caustic Soda seemed to not eat away the toner as fast.
(http://parasitstudio.weebly.com/uploads/2/4/4/9/2449159/3173760_orig.jpg)
Hey man, glad you had success with caustic soda and my tutorial! That last one looks great, hope to see more etches from you!
Cheers,
Graham
latest mxr dist+ with clipping diodes mod
(http://s016.radikal.ru/i337/1406/52/80138710518b.jpg) (http://www.radikal.ru)
(http://s019.radikal.ru/i611/1406/c6/ea526d63e98e.jpg) (http://www.radikal.ru)
sweet, love your style man... 8)
Quote from: TG Flatline on June 04, 2014, 11:06:22 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 04, 2014, 03:30:53 AM
sweet, love your style man... 8)
+1 Wicked etch!!
++1 (2?) Awesome job man! I think I was going to use that image on one of mine a while ago, old wood block prints are ideal for etches! :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 04, 2014, 03:30:53 AM
sweet, love your style man... 8)
I actually can not to get rid of it and find something new, maybe multicolor or smth different
But Albrecht Dürer is on of the most practical to etch)
Quote from: motvej on June 05, 2014, 11:51:13 AM
But Albrecht Dürer is on of the most practical to etch)
Which AD woodcut is that? Familiar, but I can't remember. Big fan.
MC
Quote from: italianguy63 on June 05, 2014, 07:21:21 PM
Quote from: motvej on June 05, 2014, 11:51:13 AM
But Albrecht Dürer is on of the most practical to etch)
Which AD woodcut is that? Familiar, but I can't remember. Big fan.
MC
it's "apocalypse four horsemen"
the end is near!
My latest, it's a Super Duper 2 in 1
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/12/zu5epy9e.jpg)
^ etch and knobbies are fantastic! What controls did you use for the superduper 2-in-1?
CHAD
Quote from: seedlings on June 11, 2014, 09:57:29 PM
^ etch and knobbies are fantastic! What controls did you use for the superduper 2-in-1?
CHAD
Thanks man! The lower two controls are the level control for each SHO circuit and the top one is the master level control.
Quote from: motvej on June 04, 2014, 03:29:12 AM
(http://s016.radikal.ru/i337/1406/52/80138710518b.jpg) (http://www.radikal.ru)
motvej, excellent etch!
I also like those knobs with one end of the tops cut at an angle like that. Do you remember where you got them?
Quick and dirty build of a MXR Distortion+ (with AA116 germanium diode)
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2922/14441884753_8d646f9a3c_z.jpg)
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14418348191_5f2891facc_z.jpg)
Inspired from far by the awesome... :icon_wink:
Quote from: Alejandro B. on April 30, 2014, 03:11:14 PM
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t1.0-9/10329263_555707647879281_1952066340610603229_n.jpg)
quote author=hylandren link=topic=85803.msg977785#msg977785 date=1402572304]
Quote from: motvej on June 04, 2014, 03:29:12 AM
motvej, excellent etch!
I also like those knobs with one end of the tops cut at an angle like that. Do you remember where you got them?
[/quote]
thanks man!!
they are from simpe offline electronic parts shop in moscow)
I didnt ever seen those knob on tayda, smallbear or smth else...
my new atari punk console with LFO
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/e849bab8bba8ec2215b153780be5aa54/tumblr_n77d5d3Nmy1s3m49to1_1280.jpg)
Fixed my Dyna Comp (1977) clone today. I've done about 4 of these now. Getting better at them, and on the etching too... :icon_smile:
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/DC1977Ext_zps6b649e2c.jpg)
And a gut shot -- with mojo, "1977 era" components...
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/DC1977Gut_zpsf9537266.jpg)
Works great. That's the best part.
MC
Nice one! You really caught the classic mxr look if I compare it to my 1978 distortion+. I first thought it was a re-housing.
Note the .05uF cap. (not a .047). :) Thanks!
Quote from: italianguy63 on June 15, 2014, 08:58:31 AM
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/DC1977Ext_zps6b649e2c.jpg)
Great etch man! Really clean, I like it!
nice work guys..you can't beat an etch when it comes out nice.. 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: nicoo on June 14, 2014, 04:09:26 PM
Inspired from far by the awesome... :icon_wink:
Thank you man, I´m so flattered both by your words and your inspired pedal... :icon_redface: :icon_redface:
That´s the great thing about this site, you get a huge bunch of ideas to make your pedals.
I have also get more than two or three ideas from here to make my own pedals (guts or finishes) ;D ;D
Thank you again for your kind words and nice work. You´ll see how etch by etch they become more easy and complex... it´s just a matter of practice!! (if you want the original crocodile skin image I can send it to you ;))
OCD v3 with 2000AD artwork by request of my mate who it's for
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/18/beqynupy.jpg)
Not my best work (but not my worst either). My Swah V3.
My 1st attempt at a reverse etch. Came out well, but, the detail was too small, the etch was not deep enough, and I learned that "grey scale" images won't work.
Anyway, had to repaint the background because of the shallow etch. Came out pretty well really (better than the pic/glare), and the concept was good.
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/Swah_zps1c19ae79.jpg)
And a gut shot:
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/SwahGut_zpsbf5b1c84.jpg)
MC
Looking good Mark, did you do the board for the snow white too ? Really like that dynacomp too!
I missed a bunch of posts in this thread, wow you guys are getting such great detail! Awesome looking artwork, Always pushing the bar up! Good Jarb Guy's !
Jimbo-- Nahhh... not reinventing the wheel. I wanted to do an autowha (envelope filter). The board was on sale at GuitarPCB. It is just "good." Not as good as I hoped-- so, I have one of RG's Neutrons coming-- rolling some vactrols as we speak. Still with one foot in the fuzz. Starting on some Muffs too. Idle hands are the Devil's work.
MC
Sweet the Neutron is one of my favorite builds of all time!
I build and seek till I get it right (mostly). ::)
Nice work, Mark! :)
I always forget about this thread :( Haven't been building a whole lot lately :( Some outstanding etches over here these days!
Here's Madbean's 424, the Demo Tape Fuzz. Haven't played it loud but its a very interesting lo-fi overdrive fuzz. Sounds very
unique and quite an easy build.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51359&g2_serialNumber=1)
Here's a Foxx Tone Machine
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51365&g2_serialNumber=1)
Killer stuff glops! :o
not exactly etching, but a little copper 'plating' experiment. these are all the same pedal, different lighting
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg579/eddododo/IMG_0373_zps240ecabf.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg579/eddododo/IMG_0370_zpsa959f7b2.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg579/eddododo/IMG_0372_zpsc667ed9f.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg579/eddododo/20140712_141100_zps0d4022f4.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg579/eddododo/20140712_081900_zpsab581a42.jpg)
First post as this is my first etch, its a phase 90 with dual controls.
More details about it are here if anyone wants to have a look.
http://kidontheslope.blogspot.co.uk/
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DtFxehUMJ3E/U8bVKMgE-BI/AAAAAAAAAI8/w4mh4j3nHDY/s1600/PHASE+DONE+FRONT1.JPG)
Nice deep etch! Good job!
nice... 8)
Quote from: JoshGreen on July 19, 2014, 11:34:51 AM
First post as this is my first etch, its a phase 90 with dual controls.
More details about it are here if anyone wants to have a look.
http://kidontheslope.blogspot.co.uk/
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DtFxehUMJ3E/U8bVKMgE-BI/AAAAAAAAAI8/w4mh4j3nHDY/s1600/PHASE+DONE+FRONT1.JPG)
Love the LED placement on that as well. Killer job ;D
warning: etch cheat... ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/loop1.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/loop2.jpg)
its only for my looper, so i just ironed toner + clear coated ;)
Quote from: Alejandro B. on May 02, 2014, 04:08:09 PM
Since we´re talking about acids and finishes, I wanted to share my method and tools to etch. I´m going to make a quick guide, if someone needs more, let me know it and i´ll try to expand details:
- I begin with a quality negative of my desing printed in a laser printer. I go to a copy shop where I obtain quality copies in glossy paper, very similar to those used in quality gossip press :icon_mrgreen:. I ask for glossy paper (not the kind used in photos, just glossy but still without that characteristic plastic feeling of photo papers. Hope you understand me).
- After wet sanding the enclosure with grain 360 and 500, I clean it with soap. You can use any product, but soap is good.
- Strong ironing going over the whole surface with the tip of the iron. I make all possible direcctions (vertical, horizontal, both diagonls) leaving the flat of the iron some minutes between each direcction.
- When I see all paper stick to the encluse I leave it to get cold before putting it into water.
- I leave it in water until it peels off alone.
- Remove all the cellulose with your finger and check everything have transferred ok.
- Steal nearer nail polish (can also be yours :icon_mrgreen:) and with a thin brush protect everything you can. Also make a border throughout the whole top of the enclosure to avoid acid leaks.
- Mix 1 part of nitirc acid (agua fuerte in Spain, stong liquid used to clean filthy things like forgotten baths :icon_mrgreen:) with 2 parts of 10% hydrogen peroxide (the one used to cure little wounds)
- Put it in each etchable part with a dropper. Don´t make lakes with acid, put what you need avoiding bubbles (if it bubbles means that you put too much)
- After 3-4 minutes remove the acid with a cottom ball and put new acid.
- Repeat this boredom for 1 hour and a quarter.
- In the last 20 minutes you can add more acid to the enclosure if you want a deep etch. But be carefull, the process at this stage can deceive you.
- Also in this last 20 minutes (more or less, with practice you "feel" what´s going on) you can use the cottom ball to remove part of the black stuff created due to the acid action. Helps to improve the depth.
- After all this is done, clean with water in a safe place (don´t spoil nothing or your wife/mother will have some words with you) and make sure that the etching has been depth enough.
- Clean the whole thing with several cotton balls coated with nail polish remover (the one with acetone)
After all this you can end in two ways:
- Paint in black (choose your color) all the etched areas, correct with wet sanding, polish and clear coat.
- Don´t paint the etched desings, clean it to the bone, polish and clear coat.
For polish I use my drill and those two famous compounds (the blue one and the brown one).
Hope it helps you as much as all tutorials in this forum have help me!!!
PS: Someone asked for a tutorial while I was writting mine... here it goes my humble experience.
Hey, I appreciate this. I've always used FeCl, so I just went and bought some NaOH to try. For anyone not in the know, 1ml of water is 1gm (by definition). Also, your comment about not too much pressure to avoid smudging is something I've struggled with in the past. Too much pressure and you get smudges, or the whole image shifts. Too little and you get lots of toner not transferring. Paper is a key factor as well. I've been using a magazine paper that has given me best results to date, but I'm interested in trying the HP Glossy Presentation Paper that someone recommended. I just can't go to PnP blue, after wasting several sheets early on... 2$ per sheet is crazy. Very fine steel wool works great to get the black crud off and getting everything shiny.
great advice ! thanks for that!
Quote from: Hexjibber on June 03, 2014, 04:04:44 PM
Hey man, glad you had success with caustic soda and my tutorial! That last one looks great, hope to see more etches from you!
Cheers,
Graham
I think I had the wrong quote in my last post. It's Graham's Etch Tutorial I meant to reference. I haven't tried your method yet, but now I have the NaOH, as well as HP Glossy Presentation Paper which I want to try, so fingers crossed for more consistent, no smudge transfers!
Quote from: Beo on July 24, 2014, 01:23:23 AM
Quote from: Hexjibber on June 03, 2014, 04:04:44 PM
Hey man, glad you had success with caustic soda and my tutorial! That last one looks great, hope to see more etches from you!
Cheers,
Graham
I think I had the wrong quote in my last post. It's Graham's Etch Tutorial I meant to reference. I haven't tried your method yet, but now I have the NaOH, as well as HP Glossy Presentation Paper which I want to try, so fingers crossed for more consistent, no smudge transfers!
Cool, let me know how you get on with the Caustic Soda!
My first - and I guarantee last - experiment with copper electroplating. Ruined a couple already-etched enclosures, my favorite pants and spent 8-10 hours swirling it in the copper bath and polishing it back.
Once the copper looked OK, I rubbed shoe polish in the etched-out areas, wiped the surface and shot it with a few coats of lacquer.
http://cl.ly/image/2q2c310Y3Q3Q/Copper%20bath.jpg (http://cl.ly/image/2q2c310Y3Q3Q/Copper%20bath.jpg)
(http://cl.ly/image/3H1L3s3E2R1Z/DSC_0291.JPG)
(http://cl.ly/image/1Y1x0c1N1l2C/DSC_0258.JPG)
(http://cl.ly/image/0y2I1s3p1O3i/DSC_0266.JPG)
(http://cl.ly/image/2y443I3l2x0N/DSC_0276.JPG)
You copper-plated your pants?? Now that's dedication! :D
Great result, btw! :icon_cool:
^^Beautiful!!!
f.....g cool...came out great. 8) 8) 8)
gold?. ;D
Quote from: bluebunny on July 28, 2014, 03:11:23 AM
You copper-plated your pants?? Now that's dedication! :D
Great result, btw! :icon_cool:
LOL, literally.
Quote from: jubal81 on July 28, 2014, 01:49:16 AM
My first - and I guarantee last - experiment with copper electroplating. Ruined a couple already-etched enclosures, my favorite pants and spent 8-10 hours swirling it in the copper bath and polishing it back.
Aluminium is well known for not being nice to plate on to, for the same reason you can't solder on to it. It forms a highly unreactive, insoluble oxidised layer really quickly, so copper and/or solder won't stick. It does mean that aluminium is very durable in terms of corrosion though.
I think the best way to plate copper (or other metals) on to aluminium would be to put it in your bath of copper solution and connect the power up with the enclosure connected to the + end of your supply, etch away the surface of the metal, then switch the power leads around without removing the aluminium from the solution. Normal surface preparation (lots of sanding and a clean with acetone or something before the etch/plate, etc) would need to be done to a very high standard.
Similar to my old Rusty Fuzz1. Custom built for a friend. It´s going to house a fuzz face.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10568943_606801666103212_4281096228232402319_n.jpg)
(https://scontent-a-mad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t1.0-9/61997_606801626103216_4974903764545626392_n.jpg)
Already published in the main thread, but since it´s an etched pedal...
Just started my first etch using Graham's tutorial. I have got a good toner mask on the enclosure after a few attempts. However, there are a couple of parts that could do with touching up. Is there anything that can be used to touch up and mask small areas when using caustic soda? My understanding is that nail varnish wouldn't work when using caustic soda.
Thanks
Dale
hi dale, ive never used caustic myself, only ferric,
but nail varnish does a good job with ferric,
is caustic too aggressive then?...if so i would think it would bite through toner too...hmmmm....
@alejandro: nice etch/design man, love the skin.. 8)
Thanks for that. I think I read somewhere that caustic soda was too aggressive for nail varnish. Going to touch up with nail varnish and use ferric just in case. Will post results.
Quote from: bluedog on August 10, 2014, 05:04:43 PM
Thanks for that. I think I read somewhere that caustic soda was too aggressive for nail varnish. Going to touch up with nail varnish and use ferric just in case. Will post results.
Yeah unfortunately Caustic Soda eats straight through nail varnish so touch ups are tricky, I think I'm lucky in that I don't usually need to do any so using Caustic has been pretty painless. I have used parcel tape to cover spots before though when I've had them but obviously that could be tricky depending on what bits need it.
My latest etch, a Pharaoh Fuzz.
Etched with NaOH as per norm, really happy with how the design on this one came out :)
In a massive enclosure because more doom.
(http://33.media.tumblr.com/40c2ec3895e2521b9f84daa061af2582/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo1_500.png)
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/95497390f47f687f0422a65b0b1c86de/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/94877b654b25f5c1246b80a91cb48644/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/33062aba2e6aa33fcb26c4409fa469cb/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo5_500.jpg)
Wow!!,!,!,!,!,
beauty... 8) 8) 8)
great etch, and design man.. 8)
Incredible detail from a great design! Nice!
Edit, Just saw the pictures thread with the gut shot, huge enclosure, must have presented a major challenge to transfer the image to it, looks like a perfect etch!
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 13, 2014, 04:39:32 AM
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/95497390f47f687f0422a65b0b1c86de/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
Just drooled over this in the pictures thread but figured I would drool over it here as well. Amazing looking build 8)
I'm blown away. WOW!
That's amazing, Hex.
Awesome, Hex!!!
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 13, 2014, 04:39:32 AM
My latest etch, a Pharaoh Fuzz.
Etched with NaOH as per norm, really happy with how the design on this one came out :)
In a massive enclosure because more doom.
(http://33.media.tumblr.com/40c2ec3895e2521b9f84daa061af2582/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo1_500.png)
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/95497390f47f687f0422a65b0b1c86de/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(http://37.media.tumblr.com/94877b654b25f5c1246b80a91cb48644/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/33062aba2e6aa33fcb26c4409fa469cb/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo5_500.jpg)
Excellent, absolutely beautiful! What size/model is that enclosure?!?! bigger than a XX/1790, correct?
My first completed etch. Currently building my first two pedals and this enclosure is for an Orange Squeezer. This etch was done with caustic. I attempted an etch with ferric first but wasn't happy with it so I'm starting again with that one with caustic. Will post pics of both once complete.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/15p6dc0.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/dadqd.jpg)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2j0dxfl.jpg)
(http://i59.tinypic.com/3d8wh.jpg)
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2qjwsrb.jpg)
These guys are killing it. My first etch looked like Sith! Nice job Dog! MC
First etch! You b*****d!
Nice job
Brilliant... 8)
first etch.. :icon_ :icon_eek:
yeah guys.....stepping up the etching game by like 40000%....give us a chance here!.....that orange squeezer is gorgeous!
my latest creation..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140815_002.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140815_007.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140815_009.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140815_004.jpg)
Thanks for the comments.
Nice job on that Tremshifter. Looks great.
cheers, that naoh or whatever it is, leaves a nice clean finish on the etched parts , might have to try that stuff...looks great. 8)
Quote from: bluedog on August 16, 2014, 07:53:50 AM
My first completed etch. Currently building my first two pedals and this enclosure is for an Orange Squeezer. This etch was done with caustic. I attempted an etch with ferric first but wasn't happy with it so I'm starting again with that one with caustic. Will post pics of both once complete.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/15p6dc0.jpg)
That looks great man and a brilliant first etch! Cool to see another NaOH/Caustic user as well! :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 16, 2014, 05:36:48 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20140815_002.jpg)
Another flawless victory Rob, looks sweet! Got any vids of that one? Looks like the sort of thing I would be into!
Quote from: glops on August 14, 2014, 11:46:59 PM
(http://33.media.tumblr.com/40c2ec3895e2521b9f84daa061af2582/tumblr_na8i4jiXkw1s7epwwo1_500.png)
Excellent, absolutely beautiful! What size/model is that enclosure?!?! bigger than a XX/1790, correct?
Cheers man! It's a 1590XX
Also thanks to everyone else that commented on my build, I appreciate it! :)
Quote from: Hexjibber on August 18, 2014, 04:21:06 AM
Another flawless victory Rob, looks sweet! Got any vids of that one? Looks like the sort of thing I would be into!
Here. (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=91426.msg987348#msg987348)
Deadastronaut,
For what it's worth, your builds are some of the few that make me consider breaking out my wallet. The combination of cool circuits and great aesthetic execution really works for me.
Etched these once:
(https://scontent-a-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10641133_10154552004980066_831458048248267904_n.jpg?oh=a65a0fb8d58720a7f5f6c4d4f3a4ccce&oe=5475EBED)
(https://scontent-b-ams.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10603355_10154552823165066_7452242298781667979_n.jpg?oh=86834ce533f10644152edf46a978ba42&oe=5468400A)
Quote from: italianguy63 on August 16, 2014, 08:20:54 AM
My first etch looked like Sith!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/600x400q90/537/oj3XeV.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/exoj3XeVj)
Quote from: Hemmel on September 02, 2014, 11:38:46 AM
Quote from: italianguy63 on August 16, 2014, 08:20:54 AM
My first etch looked like Sith!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/600x400q90/537/oj3XeV.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/exoj3XeVj)
I totally used that exact picture on a fuzz factory clone for a friend, except I mounted red LEDs behind his eyes. Where did I put that picture...
(http://i.imgur.com/M0MOEq9.jpg)
Please excuse the non-etched pedal in this thread :P
Quote from: pickdropper on September 01, 2014, 11:16:33 PM
Deadastronaut,
For what it's worth, your builds are some of the few that make me consider breaking out my wallet. The combination of cool circuits and great aesthetic execution really works for me.
cheers man, coming from you that is indeed a compliment of the highest order....nice one man 8)
One more approach. It's just a rangemaster with nagaviper tone control and Si/Ge selector :) .
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k540/iq01221/th_10649666_10204848558683087_6486339083476005101_n_zps2a312c28.jpg) (http://s1114.photobucket.com/user/iq01221/media/10649666_10204848558683087_6486339083476005101_n_zps2a312c28.jpg.html)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/ff_tb.jpg)
Fuzz Face / Tonebender Mk II in one pedal
Hope to finish it tonight.
LED Fresnel from smallbear.
Andrew.
^ cool , looks nice and aged when its not sanded.. 8)
My first reversed etch and my first A box too.
I used engine paint on this one. A bit difficult to spray, but it gets hard as a rock, rugged and solvent- and heat-resistant, which also makes toner transfer possible.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5348226/builtboxes/exofuzz%20small.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5348226/builtboxes/exofuzz%20gut.jpg)
And oh, it's a tonebender with russian transistors.
^Nice! Those little Russian Ge's are great!
Haven't posted an etch for a while so here's a few...
Fuzz Factory (Russian Ge's in this!)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/FuzzManufacturingComplex_zpsee127e9c.jpg)
Stuff with Skulls with Light-up Eyes- always getting asked to do this ;D:
"Booty Thief" (modded Kingslayer)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/BootyThiefGr1_zpsad2bfab7.jpg)
Compressor
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/compressor_zps3dc1bb13.jpg)
XXXL clone
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/2SkullKracka_zps2e3d43b8.jpg)
Light up eyes... (Mighty Mouse clone)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Rat3_zpsce5607b3.jpg)
not a skull, but it lights up! ;) (Muff)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/detail_zps783741a6.jpg)
another Muffy thing (P19) Love this pic...is it the Devil handing out babies to Nuns? :icon_lol:
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/BassFuzzSampN_zps55a4d2c6.jpg)
SHOs
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/SnakeampBirdSHO_zps1587035c.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/LeopardSHO_zps358b7fbe.jpg)
Britannia
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Britannia1_zps0b9ef887.jpg)
Grey-scale type etches:
Giger Vibe (univibe)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/GigerVibe4_zpscd3a91a2.jpg)
"Crossroads" Dual PT delays with tap tempo
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Crossroads_zps6bb6bc53.jpg)
A three-in-one with a preamp, delay, analogue flanger and belton reverb, for a trumpet player.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/miles2_zpsf536bbd4.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/deet2_zps3dda5e8d.jpg)
I call this the Doom Face!
Starts with a COT50 (acting as a sort of pre gain/boost) going into a silicon Fuzz Face (Q1 - MPSA13 Darlington / Q2 - BC108) that then goes into a Stratoblaster to push the amp input stage harder.
Also put a rotary input tone cap switch on the FF to dial in extra low end (goes up to 10u) and also more gain. Big caps all round for max low end. The result is a massive saturated wall of fuzz, perfect for dooming out!
(http://33.media.tumblr.com/e1742d74d0acca27ed46cef186954a74/tumblr_nc7g7qj1MY1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(http://33.media.tumblr.com/a884774f4384d93148f69a15cd617428/tumblr_nc7g7qj1MY1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/2f53437b85e7cfc52a75acb9123d9eef/tumblr_nc7g7qj1MY1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
(http://38.media.tumblr.com/0ca97ff10d4ee3723ece91df3e7b1dcc/tumblr_nc7g7qj1MY1s7epwwo4_500.jpg)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on September 20, 2014, 01:47:28 AM
another Muffy thing (P19) Love this pic...is it the Devil handing out babies to Nuns? :icon_lol:
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/BassFuzzSampN_zps55a4d2c6.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/SnakeampBirdSHO_zps1587035c.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/LeopardSHO_zps358b7fbe.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Britannia1_zps0b9ef887.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/GigerVibe4_zpscd3a91a2.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Crossroads_zps6bb6bc53.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/deet2_zps3dda5e8d.jpg)
That was a giant batch of Awesome Etches man! you cant go wrong with Satan handing out babies to nuns.....always good times.
It cannot be compared with the works of art I've seen around here, this is my first etching:
(http://forums.rgc.ro/uploads/monthly_04_2014/post-29294-0-57902500-1397570249.jpg)
Quote from: edy_wheazel on September 27, 2014, 02:01:32 PM
It cannot be compared with the works of art I've seen around here, this is my first etching:
(http://forums.rgc.ro/uploads/monthly_04_2014/post-29294-0-57902500-1397570249.jpg)
Looks great! How did you get it so clean?
Quote from: peterg on September 27, 2014, 10:35:33 PM
Looks great! How did you get it so clean?
+1
Looks worlds better than my first etch, I promise :P
Congratulations :)
VERY cool jobs :)
+1. Nice and clean.
Speaking of which, I'm doing some tests with reversed etching and I'd like to do one without paint. Anyone got some tips how to get it as clean as possible?
This is what I've accomplished so far with NaOH-etch, quick machine sanding (grit 2000) and some polishing compounds. I still think it's a bit rough.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5348226/builtboxes/revetch2.jpg)
Nice pedal man. Love the Art Deco style of it.
Quote from: peterg on September 27, 2014, 10:35:33 PM
Looks great! How did you get it so clean?
I used paper adhesive band (used in construction to protect surfaces). I printed the design on regular paper and put it on top, then with a scalpel I cut off the design. For etching: "second hand" ferric chloride previously used for PCB-s, twice 15 minutes.
edy_wheazel - Thanks. How did you remove all the carbon from the etch surface? Did you use the same process that Pettol noted?
Pettol - your etch looks great - not rough at all.
Quote from: WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt on September 28, 2014, 10:06:14 AM
Nice pedal man. Love the Art Deco style of it.
+1 cool style.. 8)
that NaoH stuff seems to leave the surface spotless... 8)
Thanks a lot!
Yes, bases gives a lot smoother surface than acids. Still there are some irregularities and pits (I think you can see it in the picture). But I guess I have to live with it.
Great work guys!
Borat-- Love the "For Those About to Rock" AC/DC cannon! (My 2nd ever concert!). My 1st was REO Speedwagon-- PLEASE don't tell anyone.
MC
Quote from: peterg on October 01, 2014, 12:04:45 PM
edy_wheazel - Thanks. How did you remove all the carbon from the etch surface? Did you use the same process that Pettol noted?
Actualy, my method is different. After I prepare the box (sanding and cleaning):
1 - I covered the surface with paper adhesive tape, this kind: http://renovari-amenajari.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/banda_adeziva_hartie3.jpg (http://renovari-amenajari.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/banda_adeziva_hartie3.jpg) It's regular usage is to protect surfaces when you paint, it's very cheap.
2 - I either draw the design on the tape by hand, or I print it on a regular paper and put the printed paper on top of the tape.
3 - With a very sharp scalpel I cut and remove the paper from the areas that need etching. The removal is very clean (the paper tape is specialy designed for that and doesn't leave any "dirt")
4 - For etching I make some boundaries with my kid's "silly putty" (plasticine). I do that because I don't want to submerge the entire box in FeCl3.
5 - I pour the secon hand FeCl3 (actualy third, or fourth hand) in those silly putty boundaries. After 15/20 minutes I change the FeCl3 and I let it another 15/20 minutes.
6 - That's it. Take down the silly putty, the paper tape and wash the box. Take pictures and post them on the internet. Have fun.
This methode doesn't involve a printer (if you draw the design by hand) and it's very clean. The only problem is the painstakingly scalpel-cutting operation, but for simple designs it's preferable.
Hey all,
Customer request for an OCD (v3). This one was a milestone of sorts for me as I did all the artwork in Illustrator from scratch as opposed to my usual method of er, 're-purposing' bits and bobs found on the Googleweb! ;)
Box etched with NaOH as per norm, the detailing was a bit fiddly but I got there, customer is very pleased so it's a win!
Pics..
(https://33.media.tumblr.com/2ec4de0e860be3d55bd8831dacdef0a7/tumblr_nd49dfuTsQ1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
(https://33.media.tumblr.com/979fb7c022b1e61e6b2cd262fb99d878/tumblr_nd49dfuTsQ1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(https://31.media.tumblr.com/b27acc64e2426eef10c7283cab731438/tumblr_nd49dfuTsQ1s7epwwo4_500.jpg)
(https://33.media.tumblr.com/c3ab38294c79f9b8f46e480e4f88acdb/tumblr_nd49dfuTsQ1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
beauty....looks great man.. 8)
Amazing work and design, unpecedented!
When drilling it out, how is it getting the drillbit to start clean into the raised crosshairs? Would it be easier if that detail were reversed?
dave
Beautiful Hex.
Quote from: davent on October 08, 2014, 11:02:56 AM
Amazing work and design, unpecedented!
When drilling it out, how is it getting the drillbit to start clean into the raised crosshairs? Would it be easier if that detail were reversed?
dave
Thanks man!
You're quite right about the crosshairs, I normally have them in reverse but once I added the paint layer with this one it was easy enough to just use a centrepunch to start me off
best etches around graham!
(https://33.media.tumblr.com/979fb7c022b1e61e6b2cd262fb99d878/tumblr_nd49dfuTsQ1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
that is just exquisite work man! a little frustrating actually.....one day....
Hi guys,
This is my first pedal with my first etch. It is a slightly modified Lotus Pedals Snowjob. I hope you like it :)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2199t7o.png)
2 firsts... 8)
Quote from: naturlecso on October 15, 2014, 06:52:01 AM
Hi guys,
This is my first pedal with my first etch. It is a slightly modified Lotus Pedals Snowjob. I hope you like it :)
(http://i60.tinypic.com/2199t7o.png)
I love the Snowjob. What kind of mods did you do? Gutshot...? 8)
Great-looking build.
Quote from: noobamp on October 10, 2014, 07:05:54 PM(https://33.media.tumblr.com/979fb7c022b1e61e6b2cd262fb99d878/tumblr_nd49dfuTsQ1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
that is just exquisite work man! a little frustrating actually.....one day....
Incredible. How do you get it so clean? Please share your magic!
He has shared it! :icon_mrgreen:
http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching)
Incredible! I just may muster up some courage to try this one day
Quote from: wildebelor on October 18, 2014, 02:53:31 AM
He has shared it! :icon_mrgreen:
http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching)
Cheers Nick! Yes, still using the method as detailed in my tutorial, seems to work for me (almost) every time so I haven't deviated!
Happy to answer questions about etching as always if anyone is curious enough to give it a first try, plenty of other skilled and knowledgeable chaps on this forum too!
Quote from: vigilante397 on October 15, 2014, 09:52:01 AM
I love the Snowjob. What kind of mods did you do? Gutshot...? 8)
Great-looking build.
I've just raised the input cap, so it is better with bass.
It's a little messy :)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/1z52add.png)
Finally started boxing up my PLL board. Added some mods and put a switchable megalith clone on the back end. I ended up moving most of the controls around on the PLL board so Im only taking advantage of 4 PCB mounted switches and pots which has made the off board wiring a bit of a nightmare. The boards are tested and true, but I anticipated some trouble shooting which will not be fun. I also wish I would have done it in black, but oh well. 1590G is a fun box to etch, my friends really are amazed by the big ones!
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51678&g2_serialNumber=1)
Quote from: glops on October 21, 2014, 12:30:24 AM
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51678&g2_serialNumber=1)
That is remarkably cool. I hope you realize this.
Quote from: glops on October 21, 2014, 12:30:24 AM
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51678&g2_serialNumber=1)
Wow! That's another huge build that looks like it came from a Boeing 707! :icon_cool:
Quote from: glops on October 21, 2014, 12:30:24 AM
which has made the off board wiring a bit of a nightmare.
i bet it is...welcome to my world ;D
looking cool man...epic project. 8)
Thanks, guys.
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 21, 2014, 05:23:08 AM
Quote from: glops on October 21, 2014, 12:30:24 AM
which has made the off board wiring a bit of a nightmare.
i bet it is...welcome to my world ;D
looking cool man...epic project. 8)
The wiring wasn't any worse than the Ring Stinger but it didn't fire up, of course :-\
I had to add some washers under the rotaries to add some headroom for the non PCB mounted toggle switches. So either something is shorting out or I fe'd something else up. Hopefully, it won't be too awful. I got a new day job so I only have limited time to build these days. I will probably trouble shoot over the week. Should sound great once I figure it out.
Quote from: glops on October 21, 2014, 12:30:24 AM
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51678&g2_serialNumber=1)
Sweet lord o' mercy that's awesome!
Amazing. I love the way it looks like an artifact -like you found it buried in your back yard.
Andrew.
Cant wait to see that bad boy finished!!! :icon_twisted:
^+1. Quite the monster!
Trio:
(http://oi58.tinypic.com/5mflsh.jpg)
Hello!
My newest build! Couple of firsts for me with this one, this is the first time I've used Eagle and had a PCB fabbed (OSH Park), I've since revised this board by removing the two vias I had, increasing the pad sizes and fattening up the traces. This one still works absolutely perfectly though!
Also after seeing a Madbean forum member's results (selfdestroyer) with the paint and reverse etch I had to give it a try and very pleased I did!
So it's a BE Musket fuzz and I have to say out of all the Muffs I've built this is probably my favourite thus far, I just like the tweakable nature of it I suppose and it sounds great to my doom hungry ears! ;)
Anyway enough babble, some pics;
(https://31.media.tumblr.com/c19a464df09016dc36b655ce64621043/tumblr_ndvzny11fl1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(https://38.media.tumblr.com/7b2c9aae8429548992429b5844d14705/tumblr_ndvzny11fl1s7epwwo4_500.jpg)
(https://38.media.tumblr.com/ad7e68d40798d0e9c2d5109028ba5e08/tumblr_ndvzny11fl1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Pants down;
(https://38.media.tumblr.com/18ae427f1284864f9033cdc75097b440/tumblr_ndvzny11fl1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
Cheers! :)
Graham. That is a beautiful pedal.
Quote from: peterg on October 23, 2014, 08:23:52 AM
Graham. That is a beautiful pedal.
Thanks Peter, I'm pretty proud of this one I have to say! :)
stunner..
brave use of fine lines there man... 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 23, 2014, 08:42:35 AM
stunner..
brave use of fine lines there man... 8)
Cheers Rob! :)
Yeah I know what you mean about the lines, tbh I think these are as small as it's possible to go with the method I use, although I'm sure I've said that before! ;)
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 23, 2014, 05:57:45 AM
(https://31.media.tumblr.com/c19a464df09016dc36b655ce64621043/tumblr_ndvzny11fl1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
Insane detail, man. Looks great!
Quote from: Hexjibber on October 23, 2014, 05:57:45 AM
(https://31.media.tumblr.com/c19a464df09016dc36b655ce64621043/tumblr_ndvzny11fl1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
That's just plain beauty!
My new Photonic Juergulator (still not working good)
And Octave Up Sick Box
First experience with Caustic soda etching
Jimi Photon, thank for sharin wonderfull circuits and Hexjibber for etching tutorial!
(http://s008.radikal.ru/i304/1410/0f/79b4fefc8cbf.jpg) (http://www.radikal.ru)
(http://s017.radikal.ru/i401/1410/ca/016b6604eaf7.jpg) (http://www.radikal.ru)
(http://s52.radikal.ru/i138/1410/f2/99fa5c635ee9.jpg) (http://www.radikal.ru)
(http://s61.radikal.ru/i171/1410/81/8c2baf196e6c.jpg) (http://www.radikal.ru)
Quote from: motvej on October 25, 2014, 04:55:04 AM
First experience with Caustic soda etching
Jimi Photon, thank for sharin wonderfull circuits and Hexjibber for etching tutorial
Hey man, great builds and etching! Glad the tutorial was useful! Do you think you'll use Caustic now?
Hi All,
I wanted to share my new box. Not only is it my first etched enclosure, it's my first stomp box, and also my first ever electronics project. I know its rough around the edges, and nowhere near up to the standard of what I have been seeing on the forum, but I am happy with what I have done. I also etched the PCB myself. Its a Fuzz Face with a few minor tweaks, a trim for biasing, drawdown resistor, polarity protection etc.
I etched with ferric chloride and had a bit of a journey of discovery: I decided to use the gravity\sponge method because I have seen a lot of people have great results with that. So I drizzled, dabbed, wiped and re-drizzled with room temperature ferric. After 30 minutes there were lots of pin-head size bubbles, but relatively little etching. Stage 2: I decided to warm up the ferric by sitting my container in a bath of boiled water. I repeated the above for a further 25 minutes with similar results. So then I decided to dunk the whole thing in the mixture and constantly agitate. After about 15 minutes I started to see some aggressive, patchy etching and continued. All-in-all the whole process took 1hour and 20. As you can see there are plenty of areas where the etch ate through the resist.
I think that my original mistake with the sponge was that I was leaving the ferric to stand on the surface too long in-between wipes, and I should have been constantly wiping and re-applying. Next box (a germanium Big Muff Pi that I have successfully breadboarded and added a few of my own tweaks - switchable caps before the last stage for a heavy bass boom, and switchable 3 stage clipping) I will try the sponge method again, but be a bit more enthusiastic with my wiping and re-applying (unless you think that is a bad idea?)
I'd like to find a way to get rid of the oxidation in the small pits.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/lmorse/IMG_1003.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k558/leemorse/IMG_1003.jpg)
I'd like to thank the following people for all their invaluable help in seeing me through my first ever build: Duck_Arse, Mac, Slade, Deadastronaut, LucifersTrip, pinkjimiphoton, Electric Warrior, PRR, GibsonGM (sorry if I have missed anyone out).
I'll make no apologies for posting this up on the Pictures! thread too when I get time, because I am chuffed as punch with my results!
Quote from: lmorse on October 27, 2014, 09:16:36 PM
. . . because I am chuffed as punch with my results!
Quite right too! :)
guts, yer.
a pastry brush is about right for shifting the gunked ferric while etching.
Quote from: lmorse on October 27, 2014, 09:16:36 PM
I'd like to find a way to get rid of the oxidation in the small pits.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/lmorse/IMG_1003.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k558/leemorse/IMG_1003.jpg)
Really nice box!
If you etch with NaOH you won't have the problem with the black oxidation. To get rid of it from a box already etched with acid I would apply 50% NaOH on the problem area for about 30 sec or so followed by machine polishing using polishing compound.
Quote from: lmorse on October 27, 2014, 09:16:36 PM
....I etched with ferric chloride...As you can see there are plenty of areas where the etch ate through the resist...I will try the sponge method again, but be a bit more enthusiastic with my wiping and re-applying (unless you think that is a bad idea?)...
I'd like to find a way to get rid of the oxidation in the small pits.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/lmorse/IMG_1003.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k558/leemorse/IMG_1003.jpg)
GREAT first effort! but yeah, you need to add a gutshot...
I etch with FeCl3 (Ferric Chloride) as well.
On the places it ate through your resist, if you are using FeCl3 as etchant, you might want to consider going over the areas you
don't want etched with nail polish. Since I started doing that, I never get any of those annoying little pits or any accidental etching in places where its not supposed to be. They're pretty much clean as a whistle.
Yes,heating (and sometimes re-heating) FeCl3 makes it etch a lot better.
As for agitating the etchant, I too tried the brush/sponging/dabbing method, but it didn't work well for me. Most of the guys who get such great results with dabbing/sponging/brushing don't use Ferric Chloride. The dabbing/brushing method Seems to allow Ferric chloride to cool off too much. If FeCl3 stays all together in the container it stays warmer longer, which is key to ferric chloride.
This guy uses Ferric Chloride and gets
amazing results, using HP Glossy Presentation Paper and a little different agitation technique. I had been using PNP, but tried his agitation technique and the HP Glossy Presentation Paper and couldn't believe the improvement in my etches the very first time, especially in the fine details, edge sharpness and small print:
http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035
Hope this helps on your next one.
:D
Thanks or the feedback. I have just left for work (I work away for 8 days, then home for 6, every two weeks) so can't do a gut shot until I return next week.
Oooh the suspense! ;)
My take on Deadastronaut's Chasm reverb. Not very precise etch wise but I think the grungyness adds to the theme.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/31/a7da5edab0ad0b28df3cf4abbc0d18b0.jpg)
Looks great!
:)
Hi Everyone!
First time poster but a long time lurker. I was inspired by all of the awesome etching that was posted in this thread, and I figured I should give it a go. I kept the design nice and simple, and used this tutorial: http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching. Anyways, here's my first etched enclosure after a clear coat:
(http://38.media.tumblr.com/820c6c0f55129ee924e406b481f0e264/tumblr_nee40jIrmW1sw2rpso1_500.jpg)
Overall I think it turned out pretty good but I need to be more careful masking the edges I think. The effect itself is Anchovie's Noise Ensemble, which you can find on the forums.
I've got some tips for fellow Australians in terms of sourcing goods to do it yourself. Firstly, I used Colour Copy Glossy Laser Paper from Officeworks to print on, using a Brother DCP-1510 laser printer. I got acetone from Bunnings, and the Caustic Soda from Coles (Bunnings have it cheaper but they were out of stock for me). Then I just use enamel spray paint from Super Cheap Auto to spray over the etch and sand it back using 2000 grit sandpaper also available from Super Cheap. So between Officeworks, Super Cheap, and Bunnings, you should be able to find everything you need.
Cool box Joe.
I got my enamel from Masters. Will look in Coles for Caustic Soda!
finished my latest chasm reverb ... the 'CELTIC CHASM'
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141105_012.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141105_003.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141105_006.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141105_008.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141105_011.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141105_014.jpg)
Looks great Rob. Is that an Eddystone box?
cheers man, yep eddystone... 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 05, 2014, 05:11:23 AM
finished my latest chasm reverb ... the 'CELTIC CHASM'
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20141105_012.jpg)
That looks sick Rob, exemplary work as always! :)
cheers graham... ;)
it screams "led zep!" at me. but in a good way. nice work, as ever rob, he said through gritted teeth ....
How do!
My latest is a Tonebender MKIII, loving the sound this kicks out!
Cans are 2N404, Fuzz Dog board with onboard inverter. Box etched with NaOH and some groovy retro themed art!
(http://38.media.tumblr.com/20c94884b8cb02008a50ea1b4c8383d8/tumblr_neon80Ld4E1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(http://33.media.tumblr.com/0e507c0361fa388ede19bc939452a924/tumblr_neon80Ld4E1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/6d289d1242c0d8d06fd59064b1e461de/tumblr_neon80Ld4E1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/fdc687cfdc7bfb80193618049cc75641/tumblr_neon80Ld4E1s7epwwo4_500.jpg)
I also gave my Micro POG a new coat!
(http://38.media.tumblr.com/444e4e96f40a4820c03b553380699549/tumblr_neogbibFil1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
Cheers!
Graham
Amazing work, Rob and Graham!
Oh, the itch. So little time these days...
Love the bender.... 8)
Just got back home from working away, and here is the long promised gut shot for my Fuzz. Sorry for the delay, I work away for a couple of weeks at a time.
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k558/leemorse/IMG_10121.jpg)
Little Angel Chorus Bday edition, board by frequency central
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/PhotoNov16120005_zps046c2bb5.jpg?t=1416148974)
not as clean as I like, but still nice.
A quick done Distortion+, with a "mouse carpet" grip :-*
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7461/15239173853_0550a11e02_z_d.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7464/15833016996_6de99ae195_z_d.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7462/15671299948_79102ed3b8_z_d.jpg)
Reversed and normal etch.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5348226/builtboxes/DST-1.jpg)
Quote from: Pettol on November 23, 2014, 09:10:43 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5348226/builtboxes/DST-1.jpg)
(http://img.pandawhale.com/36243-slow-clap-citizen-kane-orson-w-EOU1.gif)
Yep. Bravo. Thats excellent... :icon_cool:
+1 8)
VERY stylish
:D
Quote from: Pettol on November 23, 2014, 09:10:43 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5348226/builtboxes/DST-1.jpg)
Awesome work!
Thanks a lot guys.
Quote from: nicoo on November 23, 2014, 08:10:55 AM
A quick done Distortion+, with a "mouse carpet" grip :-*
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7461/15239173853_0550a11e02_z_d.jpg)
I love that chunder carpet. I'll be around to cut some up, cover a box with it.
as for pettol, well, it's getting a bit ridiculous. even hex-head grubs in the knobs? really?
Incredible:
Quote from: Pettol on November 23, 2014, 09:10:43 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5348226/builtboxes/DST-1.jpg)
Here's a reverse etched enclosure for my Small Clone chorus. Somehow I achieved the complete opposite to Pettol's miracle: a shabby, 30+-years-on-stage-and-drinking-look. Dirty appearance for a clean sound.
But it has a rate LED, a guitar/bass selector and an adjustable MN3007 clock speed.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Small%20Clone/Chorus_Small_Clone.jpg)
:D i can't even look at it... :D ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 25, 2014, 09:56:54 AM
:D i can't even look at it... :D ;)
That's allright and much better than my allergy to the SOUND of choruses I developed in the beginning of the 90s that I'm just ridding myself of.
Anyway I really like the looks – it's something that won't be easy to do again. Similar to the first take of a recording where everything's perfect - EXCEPT for the band popping beer bottles in the background and chattering away. I never manage to re-capture that first take quality and I guess it will be the same with this etch/paint job if I'd try to copy it.
yeah i had that chorus allergy too for a while , always reminded me of whitesnake ;D...its a love or hate thing i think...
8)
It's the bottom etch, but it looks amazing to me!
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0545_zps25a882f8.jpg)
etching pictures isn't that difficult!
And made some leaves too, with a nice green color
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0564_zps4e9ea7e1.jpg)
not as clean as Pettol's, that was really impressive, how do you do that?
Beautiful!
Quote from: thomasha on November 26, 2014, 05:59:12 AM
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0564_zps4e9ea7e1.jpg)
not as clean as Pettol's, that was really impressive, how do you do that?
I etched mine with NaOH (PnP blue as mask), machine sanded it a bit with 2000 grit, and machine polished it with chrome polish.
Maxon OD808 clone
(http://i59.tinypic.com/j08nep.jpg)
Not finished yet but I was pretty happy with this etch.
Acid etch using a photo resist method. KoT clone
(http://i.imgur.com/anG1gscl.jpg)
@edy. Reminds me of ancient alien cave art... 8)
@mark. Came out nice man..lemmy would be proud.. 8)
I am having issues with getting a good toner transfer on an enclosure.
I have created 2 boxes previously with great results. However I am having little success with the current enclosure...
- I spent a long time sanding the box down with 220 grit
- I cleaned the enclosure with acetone and water and soap
- I have tried 5 different kind of papers (photo paper and the backing of sticky labels)
- I have tried ironing for between 14-30 minutes
- I have tried various combinations of the above, sanding down after each unsuccessful attempt, sometime wiping with acetone, sometimes only soap and water, sometimes just a clean rag
- I am using the same batch of toner as the last enclosures
Results have been patchy. What toner does transfer can easily be scratched off with a fingernail. The last one I did for 30 minutes and the transfer was worse than one, using the same paper, for 22 minutes.
I was wondering has anyone had issues with too much preparation of the box, or keeping it under the iron for too long? Or maybe this box has something in the aluminium that is preventing good transfer?
Does anyone have any other suggestions? I have been at this one enclosure for 2 days now trying to get a good transfer. ???
ooops, sorry all, just realised this is the Pictures thread, wrong place.
i never understand why people iron for ages..
the box gets f...g hot real quick, and the toner melts really quick too..
i place my transfer down, put an iron on it and leave it for 10-15 seconds (to bond so it wont move) ,
then.. i start to move the flat iron over the surface.....then i use the tip of the iron over
edges, and criss cross the whole thing....couple of more flat iron sweeps...done..
leave box to cool a little, then peel off whilst still warm...clean image. sorted..
all in all about 2-3 mins max from start to fin..(once iron is hot )
maybe your toner cartridge is running out?...and becoming thinner..maybe!.
This is my very first build, my very first etch and my very first reversed etch.
I read about a technique using painters tape to cover up the area that I did not want to etch. So I covered the top of the pedal with tape and started cutting out my flash with a scalpel. It survived the etch really well but when I took of the tape I realized I had cut so deep with the scalpel the lines showed through. I thought it looked kind of nice so I went with it and here it is now.
(https://33.media.tumblr.com/caa0ad98d32faa1a2f4b62b58d379c38/tumblr_ng8c9hTqyh1tmlm2oo1_500.jpg)
Looks cool
Quote from: lmorse on December 07, 2014, 02:59:57 AM
I am having issues with getting a good toner transfer on an enclosure.
I have created 2 boxes previously with great results. However I am having little success with the current enclosure...
- I spent a long time sanding the box down with 220 grit
- I cleaned the enclosure with acetone and water and soap
- I have tried 5 different kind of papers (photo paper and the backing of sticky labels)
- I have tried ironing for between 14-30 minutes
- I have tried various combinations of the above, sanding down after each unsuccessful attempt, sometime wiping with acetone, sometimes only soap and water, sometimes just a clean rag
- I am using the same batch of toner as the last enclosures
Results have been patchy. What toner does transfer can easily be scratched off with a fingernail. The last one I did for 30 minutes and the transfer was worse than one, using the same paper, for 22 minutes.
I was wondering has anyone had issues with too much preparation of the box, or keeping it under the iron for too long? Or maybe this box has something in the aluminium that is preventing good transfer?
Does anyone have any other suggestions? I have been at this one enclosure for 2 days now trying to get a good transfer. ???
I agree that ironing that long may be causing a significant number of problems.
I had a lot of the same issues you are having until I stopped using PNP blue and did two things:
1. I switched to this guy's methods: http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035
I instantly started getting cleaner etches and sharper lines with the presentation paper he recommends. The paper is cheap, easy to get, and once in place almost bullet proof! As per the recommendation in his tutorial, I sanded with a scotchbrite type of pad, and the resist stayed in place! Seriously.
2. I go over everything I don't want to be etched with nail enamel. I can't stand even small accidental etching pits, and using the nail enamel has pretty much eliminated them for me.
Hope this helps.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51821&g2_serialNumber=1)
Don't think I'm going to paint this baby....
Beautiful. How did you get the texture on that?
The texture in the etched areas most likely are from doing the etches withe the enclosure face up. I pour the acid on top and then spread it with a chip brush. I do this several times so its basically etching unevenly where different parts of the enclosure are getting burned longer. At least I think that's what's going on...
Cool. Looks like. A luna surface...
Unpainted etches do have a certain industrial charm.... 8)
My .02..
I use DA's ironing technique too. Works for me.
I use HP brand presentation paper. Cheap-- works well. Releases easy with water.
I go over everything with a paint pencil (instead of nail polish)-- The paint pencils come in different shaped tips, so you can do big areas or really tight areas depending on the tip you use. Keeps the "shadows" way down. Worth the extra effort and expense. I tape over the big areas with blue masking tape.
I think if you go into an image correction software package-- you can select "gamma correction" and it will darken the darks-- hence dump MORE TONER. I make sure the blacks are really black and not just dark grey in the image file.
MC
Quote from: italianguy63 on December 09, 2014, 04:11:43 AM
I think if you go into an image correction software package-- you can select "gamma correction" and it will darken the darks-- hence dump MORE TONER. I make sure the blacks are really black and not just dark grey in the image file.
Yes n
Self Destroyer's etching tutorial, he says to print at the highest density possible. IMHO, that is uber important.
Quote from: glops on December 08, 2014, 05:30:20 PM
Don't think I'm going to paint this baby....
No! You should leave it right there. Very cool.
Quote from: Pettol on December 10, 2014, 06:44:37 AM
Quote from: glops on December 08, 2014, 05:30:20 PM
Don't think I'm going to paint this baby....
No! You should leave it right there. Very cool.
Definitely, not painting it! Thanks, dudes.
Zombie chorus, I hope U like it:
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k540/iq01221/th_10340143_10205763506672630_6721809861723172691_n_zps2fc45a77.jpg) (http://s1114.photobucket.com/user/iq01221/media/10340143_10205763506672630_6721809861723172691_n_zps2fc45a77.jpg.html)
Guts:
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k540/iq01221/th_triperio_zps06fc9b59.jpg) (http://s1114.photobucket.com/user/iq01221/media/triperio_zps06fc9b59.jpg.html)
Post-etching:
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k540/iq01221/th_DESPUEacuteSDELATACADOc_zps5d4df9f8.jpg) (http://s1114.photobucket.com/user/iq01221/media/DESPUEacuteSDELATACADOc_zps5d4df9f8.jpg.html)
After some failures I didn't do etching for a while until Deadastronaut mentioned not to iron for too long... So done that and much tighter etches, just need to put more work in sanding the top smoothly, but I also like the roughness the etch gets from the scratches from lazy sanding...
(http://www.cosmicandroid.com/foto/Scrambler_04.jpg)
(http://www.cosmicandroid.com/foto/Scrambler_11.jpg)
hi guys,
my newest etch:
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0661_zps686ee279.jpg)
Now, let's paint it!
Thomas
Triple Wreck
(http://i62.tinypic.com/2v362cm.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2vlw4zc.jpg)
Quote from: thomasha on January 16, 2015, 04:45:45 PM
my newest etch:
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0661_zps686ee279.jpg)
Etch?? It looks like it's hand-carved by pixies! :D Lovely work.
chased by an aztec? too much.
Love that mayan calendar...cool.
it's for my solstice reverb build,
so i thought the calendar would be a nice hint...
Hello all,
I'm doing my first caustic soda etched enclosure, and printed on laser printer to glossy paper (not photographic and not magazine), ironed per http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching and after well cooled, peeled, and the printed side of the paper remains stuck by the toner to the box, a thin white layer obscuring the toner mask. I am afraid anything I do to remove the remaining paper will also remove toner, and am wondering whether the caustic soda will eat away the paper and I should just proceed with taping off the edges and sides of the enclosure and the etching of the enclosure, or whether I need to use something else to remove the paper residue. I did peel an intact sheet of paper from the enclosure, but not the glossy surface of the paper to which the toner was adhered.
Looking to next time, should I not let the enclosure cool fully, to avoid this?
snowman910
Some people soak the enclosure in water after ironing on the toner to help remove the paper. I've only really done a few toner transfers, but after a few minutes soaking in warm water you should be able to rub off the remaining paper with your fingers. If the toner is well stuck on, you can be fairly vigorous with the rubbing before you have to worry about the toner flaking off.
Thanks, Psychedelic Fish, I'll use this approach tomorrow.
I second the wise words of psychedelic fish. I have done many a toner transfer in my day (though I don't pretend by any stretch of imagination to be an expert), and while I never had such problems with things like PNP blue I recently made the switch to magazine paper, and have found that soaking in warm water definitely does the trick.
This is my first etch with the toner transfer method and FeCL3 (40%) as etchant. I also soaked the enclosure in warm water after cooling and used a washing-up brush to remove the paper. It is crucial to let the whole thing cool down properly after ironing. I took me three attempts to do it right because I wasn't patient enough after ironing and peeled off the still warm toner with the paper twice. Throwing it in cold water didn't help either (I wonder why), so finally I just let it sit for half an hour and the transfer was nearly perfect.
Previously I used photoresist and H2O2 plus HCl but the photoresist wasn't stable enough for deep etches.
This one came out pretty good (although I never really succeed in painting and sanding reverse etches). Next time I'll try less strong FeCl3, because this time the enclosure got quite hot during etching and subsequently the toner detached.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Prof_Etch.jpg)
A thread to this pedal is also here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=109664.0
snowman910, when I switched to presentation paper (having used PNP before that) I too was afraid of removing the mask when I tried to remove the residue...But as you can see from self destroyer's tutorial, its a lot stronger than you think.
Yes, I have used his aggressive method for removing the paper residue and it worked and left the resist intact. In fact, my etches have improved considerably since switching to his methods:
http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035
@snowman910
Hey dude, I wrote the tutorial that you referred to, with the paper I use (Polaroid Photo Paper) there is a thin white film over the toner but not in the exposed areas, do you have exposed areas of the box showing through with no white film on, or does the whole thing have a white film?
If you have exposed areas and just white film on the toner parts then you don't need to do anything, just etch away as described in my tutorial. Whenever I do etches I never scrub or even expose the box to water after I've peeled the paper off as it's unnecessary, at least with the paper I mentioned.
Let me know how you get on man!
Why use FeCl3 or Even HCl + H2O2 on aluminium? how about just dilute HCl or even vinegar?
Quote from: Brisance on January 20, 2015, 08:38:32 AM
Why use FeCl3 or Even HCl + H2O2 on aluminium? how about just dilute HCl or even vinegar?
H2O2 is an oxidizer needed when etching copper (which is the origin of the etchant). Looking at the Pourbaix diagram for aluminum, I don't think you need it actually. On the other hand the diagram doesn't say anything about kinetics so the HCl might etch a lot slower without.
Vinegar will etch slowly.
But, skip the acids and use I NaOH instead.
Better slow than sorry... or what was the idiom again?
BB Preamp + JHS Minibomb.
(http://i62.tinypic.com/oshj6h.jpg)
cool... 8)
I have learned a lot from you guys. it's been almost a year since I started. Thank you for everything! ;D
The semester is finally over so I can start building again. This is an etch for a magnavibe.
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/diezoone/sunvibe2_zps87ed219d.jpg) (http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/diezoone/media/sunvibe2_zps87ed219d.jpg.html)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/diezoone/sunvibe4_zpsf8f7cd72.jpg) (http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/diezoone/media/sunvibe4_zpsf8f7cd72.jpg.html)
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/diezoone/sunvibe3_zps98598ecc.jpg) (http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/diezoone/media/sunvibe3_zps98598ecc.jpg.html)
Quote from: die zoone on January 30, 2015, 05:12:57 PM
I have learned a lot from you guys. it's been almost a year since I started. Thank you for everything! ;D
The semester is finally over so I can start building again. This is an etch for a magnavibe.
(http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q578/diezoone/sunvibe2_zps87ed219d.jpg) (http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/diezoone/media/sunvibe2_zps87ed219d.jpg.html)
That is wicked man, love it!
Yeah, nice design and clean etch... 8)
Nice detail.. It almost looks "sand blasted" in the last pic. :icon_exclaim:
MC
Very nice indeed.
If only my first post were as impressive, or my most recent!
Nice work
Thank you all!
BYOC VB-2
This was a repair/rehouse, so sorry no gut shot...
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/VB2buggy_zps11a24e50.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/IMG_4062_zpsd349e765.jpg)
The Harmonic Sink (Harmonic Energizer)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/HarmonicSink_zps56575d3e.jpg)
One of Zappa's favourite tool (hence the etch.) Added an expression jack for the Q control.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/guts2_zps48e51151.jpg)
Sounds like "carob redux" one of John Lyon's best fuzzes, absolutely phenomenal design, I love it.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Beatle_zpsc77777bc.jpg)
While it's a sound-alike, the guts are far from look-alike. :mrgreen:
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/guts2_zps565da72e.jpg)
Syncrotron (the awesome Mega Chorus.Vibrato)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/1sync2_zpsbc24d549.jpg)
A baffling number of parameters, so I gave them appropriate- and real, thematically related names. :lol:
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/2Synchrotron_zpsc860f095.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Synchrotronguts_zps560b8e8b.jpg)
Finally, the "el Segundo Primo" (BYOC el distort Segundo)- working up my "useful" Spanish for my imminent trip to the US!
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/eldirto_zps54d7f930.jpg)
Made a few mods, but really dig it!.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/elguts_zps4e6ac4f5.jpg)
Love these resin knobs!
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/elSegundoPr_zps6308869b.jpg)
Hadn't boxed it, but posted this demo a little while ago.
Holy guitarmageddon batman :icon_eek: That was way too much awesomeness for a single post! I'm surprised the internet didn't implode!
Excellent looking builds! 8)
(http://i62.tinypic.com/28vvnfl.jpg)
Nice one. 8)
Quote from: edy_wheazel on February 17, 2015, 01:52:17 PM
(http://i62.tinypic.com/28vvnfl.jpg)
It's builds like this that made my try etching in the first place. Super clean, you make it look super easy. It isn't :P
A CMOS Theremin
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/2Theremin_zps51c78d65.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/3Theremin_zpsbc3f0b06.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/1Theremin_zps561cb206.jpg)
Here's another one, a Fender Blender
Has the old 2N3391 transistors and an octave defeat on a stomp instead of the tone switch.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/A1%20Fender%20Blender_zpsavpepkmg.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Guts_zpsjlvxln3m.jpg)
Mr. Codtone. Enough already! You're making me feel like a lazy slacker. Awesome builds and etches! Very inspiring.
nice work man... 8)
is it me or have some posts been deleted/missing?... ???
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 05, 2015, 12:27:26 PM
is it me or have some posts been deleted/missing?... ???
Use the other eye, mate. ;)
;D
Quote from: guitarmageddon on February 15, 2015, 06:44:02 AM
Finally, the "el Segundo Primo" (BYOC el distort Segundo)- working up my "useful" Spanish for my imminent trip to the US!
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/eldirto_zps54d7f930.jpg)
"El Segundo Primo" cracks me up!
Quote from: tubegeek on March 05, 2015, 03:08:43 PM
"El Segundo Primo" cracks me up!
Cheers!- you're the first person to have publically acknowledged they understand it! ;)
Quote from: guitarmageddon on March 07, 2015, 06:04:01 AM
Quote from: tubegeek on March 05, 2015, 03:08:43 PM
"El Segundo Primo" cracks me up!
Cheers!- you're the first person to have publically acknowledged they understand it! ;)
a popular search engine turned up "the second cousin". beats me.
I got grand-nephew- for one translation, anyway. :) I was also handed 'el segundo premio' (as in 'the second prize') also...
yep............ second cousin.....sweet etch btw
"the second cousin" is the correct literal translation, however "primo" is also slang.
There's a big clue in the control names... ;)
yeah the yayo gave it away.....lol
Redone Tonepad Rebote 3 box:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ajl2wt6xkonk7p/rebote%203%20top%20redone.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ajl2wt6xkonk7p/rebote%203%20top%20redone.jpg?dl=0)
Quote from: peterg on March 16, 2015, 01:46:56 PM
Redone Tonepad Rebote 3 box:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ajl2wt6xkonk7p/rebote%203%20top%20redone.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/7ajl2wt6xkonk7p/rebote%203%20top%20redone.jpg?dl=0)
Big knobs, big LED, big washer, big nut... what's not to like? ;D
I thought it meant "The second first" - kinda like Spinal Tap's second band name, "The New Originals" which they took when they found out "The Originals" was already taken.
one of my sisters was talking the other day [in english] blah blah something "your grand nephew" (something blah). I must say, I didn't fall about the floor laughing. if she'd'a mentioned my second cousin, woulda been a different story.
8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150318_005.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150318_004.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150318_007.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150318_008.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150318_001.jpg)
Very nice, Rob. Not seen so many knobs since the local am-dram production of "The Full Monty". ;D
funny you say that, as i had to remove the condoms on the pots.. ;D
Quote from: bluebunny on March 19, 2015, 09:23:10 AM
Very nice, Rob. Not seen so many knobs since the local am-dram production of "The Full Monty". ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 19, 2015, 09:25:06 AM
funny you say that, as i had to remove the condoms on the pots.. ;D
http://tinyurl.com/2d3ndht
;D
Quote(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150318_005.jpg)
Stunning!
Haven't been able to etch anything since December (new job and girlfriend!) Finally did a round of boxes last night. Can't wait to finish this one, my fav fuzz:
(http://ilovefuzz.com/download/file.php?id=21815)
nicely done gentlemen
here's a phaser..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150329_006.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20150329_009.jpg)
Nicely done Rob! Really clean etch and very thorough prep work !
cheers man, yeah i get pretty OCD about my etches...but its wworth the extra effort imo. 8)
made a tutorial on how 'I' etch..
So do you feel like Ferric Chloride is gentler on the toner? Ive been trying to work with 50/50 NaOH and it just destroys the toner. the NaOH may be too strong or gets the box too hot. Do you feel like old Ferric is a better route?
Thanks for the great tutorial, Rob!
Great tutorial Rob, thanks for sharing.
Excellent tutorial Rob! Thanks for putting that together :icon_biggrin:
cheers guys
@noobamp...i'm not sure ive always used ferric..
that Naoh does look agressive, but the results are nice with the silver etched parts... 8)
gotcha. I may give it a shot. your results are way too clean not to try, man. thanks for the tutorial!
That's EXACTLY how I etch, except that I use Packing tape for a more water tight (or maybe I should say etchant tight) seal. and I use a Scotchbrite pad to remove the excess paper before etching.
Believe it or not, the toner resist holds up even to light scuffing with the scotchbrite pad...Its WAY more durable than you would think!
Great tutorial.
cool..
i use electrical tape as its nice n flexible enough to stretch around it,
plus it doesn't leave any 'sticky' behind...(and i get 6 rolls for a quid at poundland ;D)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 30, 2015, 02:23:10 PM
...(and i get 6 rolls for a quid at poundland ;D)
I should move to the UK simply for the reason that the Dollar Tree is replaced with Poundland.
Quote from: vigilante397 on March 30, 2015, 06:05:31 PM
I should move to the UK simply for the reason that the Dollar Tree is replaced with Poundland.
If that's your only reason, Nathan, then I'd stay put! :D
HEY!!! I thought you were coming to Australia, Nathan :)
david
Quote from: bluebunny on March 31, 2015, 03:06:41 AM
Quote from: vigilante397 on March 30, 2015, 06:05:31 PM
I should move to the UK simply for the reason that the Dollar Tree is replaced with Poundland.
If that's your only reason, Nathan, then I'd stay put! :D
+1 everything else sucks.... :)
Quote from: greaser_au on March 31, 2015, 06:19:06 AM
HEY!!! I thought you were coming to Australia, Nathan :)
Is there an Australian equivalent to Poundland? Australian Dollar Tree just isn't that catchy :P But realistically I think the weather would persuade me to choose Australia over the UK :icon_mrgreen: I would still probably sit in my basement all day chained to the soldering iron, but for some reason I enjoy it more when it's pleasant outside :icon_rolleyes: I'm a slightly backward person.
Quote from: greaser_au on March 31, 2015, 06:19:06 AM
HEY!!! I thought you were coming to Australia, Nathan :)
david
"do you play cricket?"
ours are called 'the2$ shop', mostly. our dollar is crap at the moment.
Quote from: duck_arse on March 31, 2015, 10:33:34 AM
"do you play cricket?"
I learned all the rules when I was about 16 (from a book) and have yet been unable to find anyone to play, let alone find a proper bat and a set of wickets. :P
set of stumps.
that was actually a snidey at some of our english friends. it would be interesting to see a game played by "learned it, from a book"* teams.
*flowery twats reference this time. python last time. sorry.
How did this most sacred of places get to cricket? (From NZ) :'(
Quote from: vigilante397 on March 31, 2015, 10:22:14 AM
Is there an Australian equivalent to Poundland? Australian Dollar Tree just isn't that catchy :P But realistically I think the weather would persuade me to choose Australia over the UK :icon_mrgreen: I would still probably sit in my basement all day chained to the soldering iron, but for some reason I enjoy it more when it's pleasant outside :icon_rolleyes: I'm a slightly backward person.
there's a south australian enterprise called 'spend-a-penny' (when they came up with the name this one I wonder if they knew what the phrase meant :) ).
david
Some new etched pedals:
Klon
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0813_zpsk7plpp2h.jpg)
Colorsound inductorless wah
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0799_zps5qj2b6lm.jpg)
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0816_zps728galvb.jpg)
and a special project
(http://i1303.photobucket.com/albums/ag159/Thomas_Eduardt_Hafemann/DSC_0802_zpslevsuzkp.jpg)
Some noise in the etching this time, something went wrong with the toner...
Cheers,
Thomas
Really cute wah man...excellent etch design too...brilliant. :icon_cool:
Incredible etches!
What will the last enclosure become? I really like the 17th/18th century design of it
Quote from: thomasha on April 01, 2015, 09:21:41 PM
Some new etched pedals:
Colorsound inductorless wah
That midget Wah is off the hook. Wow.
holy wow :D
Not my first try, but the first time I feel good about the results!
I used electrolytic etching on a steel enclosure, it worked much better than ferric chloride.
(http://i.imgur.com/cPR6j7Nl.jpg)
My first etched enclosure. It's a modified black arts toneworks blacksheep, which is just a modified roland beebaa.
Reverse etched.
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/4D7691C8-B23A-4B5F-A337-6AA54F189D2F_zpshtn0usni.jpg)
Amazing first etch man....nailed it... 8)
2nd that awesome job
Thanks guys. It means a lot coming from you guys. I've been envious of all the work I've seen you all do. Working on two more that I really hope turn out as good.
Hi , I didn't post for a while here...Man, the skills of builders are getting insanely good, it starts to be intimidating to post! :O
Here are a few old projects that I rehoused recently:
Meathead dark:
(http://xtupload.com/image.php?id=03DB_552779F8&jpg) (http://xtupload.com/share.php?id=03DB_552779F8)
Modded muff + LPB1:
(http://xtupload.com/image.php?id=CB31_55277C49&jpg) (http://xtupload.com/share.php?id=CB31_55277C49)
belton reverb:
(http://xtupload.com/image.php?id=3775_55277C49&jpg) (http://xtupload.com/share.php?id=3775_55277C49)
Modded PT80 delay:
(http://xtupload.com/image.php?id=76E0_55277C49&jpg) (http://xtupload.com/share.php?id=76E0_55277C49)
"bufferless" tube screamer:
(http://xtupload.com/image.php?id=B46E_55277C49&jpg) (http://xtupload.com/share.php?id=B46E_55277C49)
meathead bright:
(http://xtupload.com/image.php?id=5019_55277EDD&jpg) (http://xtupload.com/share.php?id=5019_55277EDD)
Hey little bit out of context, but I was just wondering if I could use a wooden enclosure for a spyder type pedal power supply unit with proper shielding?
Out of context indeed.
Many power supplies are housed in plastic, I don't think wood would be a problem,
just watch the method of joining.
poppyman - this is going to make a few people here laugh, but, I can't see your pictures. I would like to, but "Forbidden - You don't have permission to access /image.php on this server. Apache/2.2.19 (Win64) PHP/5.4.5 Server at xtupload.com Port 80" comes up, or a variation of.
is it still just me?
It's just you Duck.. I see them fine.
This is a little side project I have been busy with for several months. Going to post a pic so you know I haven't been slacking...
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/CaliChupStandSmall_zpsqi5sqipr.jpg)
MC
Edit: thanks italian guy, I actually struggled to post them with the proper size ;)
Duck has issues.. maybe as many as me. :P
Quote from: duck_arse on April 10, 2015, 10:49:12 AM
poppyman - this is going to make a few people here laugh, but, I can't see your pictures. I would like to, but "Forbidden - You don't have permission to access /image.php on this server. Apache/2.2.19 (Win64) PHP/5.4.5 Server at xtupload.com Port 80" comes up, or a variation of.
is it still just me?
That particular error is a very typical PHP website backend screwup, either the database is corrupted, overloaded, crashed or a victim of poor coding (PHP is an excellent sandbox for BAD coding- and because it's open & free, it usually *is*). If it now works, it means that somebody fixed it (or the load went away) between Duck getting that error and others successfully viewing it!
I have collated a (mostly original) glossary of IT terms gleaned from my nearly 20 years in this frustrating game... The entry for PHP:
PHP:
n: PHP:Hypertext Preprocessor. A server-side HTML embedded scripting language or CGI (common gateway interface). It provides web developers with a full suite of tools for building content-rich and flexible dynamic websites which seem to only ever return "403: Forbidden. You do not have permission to access / on this server", or "500: The database
XXXXX is not available"
david
Chupacabra looks great Marc!
Thanks Russ.. This was actually a prototype...
Quote from: rocket8810 on April 09, 2015, 12:24:44 AM
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/4D7691C8-B23A-4B5F-A337-6AA54F189D2F_zpshtn0usni.jpg)
Badass man! Top job!
Quote from: italianguy63 on April 10, 2015, 11:05:52 AM
It's just you Duck.. I see them fine.
This is a little side project I have been busy with for several months. Going to post a pic so you know I haven't been slacking...
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/CaliChupStandSmall_zpsqi5sqipr.jpg)
MC
nice build Mark!
Shouldn't the wolf be facing the other way?
It's a hairless dog thing.. mythical creature... You guys overthink things.
Thanks Law.. It is a fun thing-- I built a handful of these as it was a team thing with another member. I ended up with a handful of PCB's. There is also a "Lovecraft" Chupacabra OD pedal. This is NOT the same (hence the "Caliente" part of the name). I already got that e-mail as well.. :P
It is a cool little tight build in a 1590B.
Not tight like CozyBuilder!! (Russ).. but tight for ME.
MC
Poppyman. Awesome etches!
Quote from: italianguy63 on April 11, 2015, 12:08:41 PM
It's a hairless dog thing.. mythical creature... You guys overthink things.
Thanks Law.. It is a fun thing-- I built a handful of these as it was a team thing with another member. I ended up with a handful of PCB's. There is also a "Lovecraft" Chupacabra OD pedal. This is NOT the same (hence the "Caliente" part of the name). I already got that e-mail as well.. :P
It is a cool little tight build in a 1590B.
Not tight like CozyBuilder!! (Russ).. but tight for ME.
MC
I have a pedal version of the Randall RG preamp that I put in a 1590B that I called El Chupacabras a couple of years ago or so. Demo here if youre interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1t_F1fywXTw
I never got a letter tho ;)
Maybe mine was first :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: Groovenut on April 11, 2015, 01:45:17 PM
I never got a letter tho ;)
Hahahahahhahaha... It was actually very friendly. Don't read too much into it.
:D
It was easiest just to slightly modify the name and avoid any future hurt feelings. "Caliente" also has two meanings. This one is the latter meaning... ??? :P
It would be a sad day on Earth indeed, if all the South American mythical creatures' names were trademarked. :o
MC
Getting ready to drop acid...
I've talked about how I use HP presentation paper... you can see the one in the bottom right with no touchup hardly. (My sanding must have been good on that one).
Plus, you can see the black mask (touchup)-- done with paint pencil. Nice control, easy....
Finally blue 3M tape is fantastic. Easy, no cleanup-- no spray paint... etc.
Anyway-- a KLONe, Compressor, and 3 Overdrives getting ready to get dunked. I've been busy lately......
MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/AcidMask_zpsuxwp5qtq.jpg)
Gorgeous job on the chupacara. And again thanks for the compliments on the first box I did. I'm working now on my next one, an Ezekiel. Italian, I can't get the presentation paper to work at all for me, and I can't figure it out for the life of me. I get one of three things happen, either it smears at certain parts, the ink doesn't transfer right and is light, or it sticks and when I use the scrubby side of a sponge it ends up pulling up the black mask. I wish I could figure it out cause it would be much cheaper then using the press n' peel blue, which I don't have work 100% of the time either, but when it does works great, but expensive as shit.
Oh, and side note I can't see those images either. Which sucks cause I really want to see them, cause I bet they look awesome. I get the same forbidden message.
Quote from: rocket8810 on April 11, 2015, 11:04:47 PM
Italian, I can't get the presentation paper to work at all for me, and I can't figure it out for the life of me. I get one of three things happen, either it smears at certain parts, the ink doesn't transfer right and is light, or it sticks and when I use the scrubby side of a sponge it ends up pulling up the black mask.
Hmmm....
Smearing? Don't let the paper move AT ALL when you are ironing. I usually let the iron go for about a minute at first just holding the paper down until it starts to stick, and getting the enclosure hot. (it should be "sizzle" hot if you get it right). Once it is good and hot, work the iron really well to make sure you get the image stuck down everywhere... I use the tip of the iron especially in the corners. My cheap enclosures have casting imperfections in the corners, for example.
Light or lifting image? Surface prep maybe? I block sand until the enclosure is absolutely flat. I use 180 to 220 grit wet/dry. It's a lot of work... Also, don't touch the sanded enclosure-- you can transfer oils from your hands... I don't use chemicals to clean either prior to ironing. But, if I do, I use laquer thinner, then hit it lightly again with sandpaper.
Use the scrubby to get the final paper off (most comes off with water, and scrub it with your finger).. but the haze is OK. You know you have it right when you start to see the "silver" of the unmasked areas show though.. but, it is OK if it is still a little hazy. See my pic above.
Here they are out of the tank. Mask cleaned off with solvent. UNTOUCHED with sandpaper yet. Really. Results are great. Sorry for the poor lighting. Just a quick pic. MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/AcidMask2_zpsadd3zkvz.jpg)
EDIT: BTW Zach-- what font is that? I dig it!!
Ironing tip:
I use a doubled over bath towel on the tabletop... it gives both heat/scuff protection to the tabletop, and it holds the enclosure firmly in place while you go to town with it with the iron. I use a "oven mit" on my left hand to hold things in place at first until it gets hot grabbing the sides of the enclosure as needed. Hardest part is probaby getting the transfer paper exactly in place prior to ironing, and then not letting it move while you get things situated and the ironing started. Like anything, it is practice. It took me a while to get the etch time down. Several enclosures ruined until I figured out I was etching too long. MC
thanks PeterG!
love your etches and your work on the 1590B's!!! :)
Quote from: italianguy63 on April 12, 2015, 02:59:31 AM
Quote from: rocket8810 on April 11, 2015, 11:04:47 PM
Italian, I can't get the presentation paper to work at all for me, and I can't figure it out for the life of me. I get one of three things happen, either it smears at certain parts, the ink doesn't transfer right and is light, or it sticks and when I use the scrubby side of a sponge it ends up pulling up the black mask.
Hmmm....
Smearing? Don't let the paper move AT ALL when you are ironing. I usually let the iron go for about a minute at first just holding the paper down until it starts to stick, and getting the enclosure hot. (it should be "sizzle" hot if you get it right). Once it is good and hot, work the iron really well to make sure you get the image stuck down everywhere... I use the tip of the iron especially in the corners. My cheap enclosures have casting imperfections in the corners, for example.
Light or lifting image? Surface prep maybe? I block sand until the enclosure is absolutely flat. I use 180 to 220 grit wet/dry. It's a lot of work... Also, don't touch the sanded enclosure-- you can transfer oils from your hands... I don't use chemicals to clean either prior to ironing. But, if I do, I use laquer thinner, then hit it lightly again with sandpaper.
Use the scrubby to get the final paper off (most comes off with water, and scrub it with your finger).. but the haze is OK. You know you have it right when you start to see the "silver" of the unmasked areas show though.. but, it is OK if it is still a little hazy. See my pic above.
Here they are out of the tank. Mask cleaned off with solvent. UNTOUCHED with sandpaper yet. Really. Results are great. Sorry for the poor lighting. Just a quick pic. MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/AcidMask2_zpsadd3zkvz.jpg)
EDIT: BTW Zach-- what font is that? I dig it!!
hmmm. i'll have to try it again. maybe i had them good, and just over thought it? i remember that on some of the parts to be etched there was some paper still stuck to it, so i thought it wouldn't work. i guess that little bit comes off when the enclosure is put in the solution.
i usually sand the enclosure with 400 grit to get everything as flat as i can. hell i even cover the enclosure in sharpie and sand till i don't see any of it left to ensure there are no low spots. then i cleaned the enclosure with acetone till the cloth is clean. i left the iron on top of the paper for about a minute or so just sitting there, then i worked the iron around in circles on the paper. it didn't look like it moved, i had a little bit of tape down on it to hold it in place, so i thought maybe i put too much pressure on it.
i just finished painting my Ezekiel that i etched with the press n' peel, it took 3 @#$%ing tries to get it right, as i had some bubbling and unclean lines. i'm going to give the gloss paper another shot and post up what it looks like before etching to see if you think ti should be good to go. cause i would love to do this more, and not have to spend about $2 a sheet for the press n' peel, even though i'll get 4 1590bb or 4-5 125bs out it it. the gloss paper would be so much more cost effective.
oh and that typeface is called VanDyke if i remember correctly. i'll have to double check. i think it looked great with that image and gave the vibe i wanted. it seems one of the most annoying things i deal with in designing my enclosures is picking the right typeface. if it's wrong the vibe is shot.
Good luck. I have GREAT results with the HP paper.
It looks grey/hazy when dry. If you scrub all the grey off-- you would get thinner mask-- I expect it would still work, but you would get spotty shaddows... and not as clean images. Not what you are experiencing. Try to lightly sand just before applying the paper to be sure the solvent is all gone. Maybe that is it...
Thanks man-- your stuff looks awesome. Keep fighting the fight, and building the vibe!
MC
Meatstick time!
(http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h359/travispike/d0961cf2-af6d-4724-b0cc-887a2338fd82_zpsztsqb2b2.jpg)
Really. I love building these. Here is a nice KLONe....
A shout out to LPD (Grovenut). I started using his PCB (Solaris), and a big improvement... It lets the layout be so comfortable. I missed it a tiny bit on this one. I need to move the jacks and stomp down about a 1/4 inch. It is a tiny bit crowded. But, definitely an improvement.
Of course, it sounds great too...
Thanks Law-- I appreciate all the help you have offered me.. MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/KLTop_zpsff7wezcl.jpg)
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/KLGut2_zpsjpwxcmcu.jpg)
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/KLGut_zpsarpo6kej.jpg)
Between Dead-Astro's video and your technique explanations, this is starting to look do-able. Great looking pedal Mark!
Quote from: Cozybuilder on April 13, 2015, 10:27:53 AM
Between Dead-Astro's video and your technique explanations, this is starting to look do-able. Great looking pedal Mark!
You could fit 8 pedals in the space I use.. LOL...
:icon_biggrin:
MC
Quote from: italianguy63 on April 13, 2015, 09:57:51 AM
Really. I love building these. Here is a nice KLONe....
A shout out to LPD (Grovenut). I started using his PCB (Solaris), and a big improvement... It lets the layout be so comfortable. I missed it a tiny bit on this one. I need to move the jacks and stomp down about a 1/4 inch. It is a tiny bit crowded. But, definitely an improvement.
Of course, it sounds great too...
Thanks Law-- I appreciate all the help you have offered me.. MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/KLGut_zpsarpo6kej.jpg)
Beautiful build Mark! Realy nice workmanship! Keep up the awesome work!
Awesome job on the Klone Mark. It looks fantastic and super clean.
I finally had time this weekend to finish the build for the enclosure I etched last week. It's a modified Ezekiel 25:17.
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/73F1E79A-1FBD-4771-AB02-6B260E7DEFFC_zpssslh0o31.jpg)
And since I didn't post the insides for the last build, I figured I would post them for this one.
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/8A58272E-BA31-41C3-AB0D-FB98A38DC49F_zpsvq3qrj4n.jpg)
Quote from: rocket8810 on April 20, 2015, 12:00:32 AM
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/73F1E79A-1FBD-4771-AB02-6B260E7DEFFC_zpssslh0o31.jpg)
That looks amazing dude! I've never had any success using translucent paint, which one did you use? Or was it a different method?
all the paint i'm using now is automotive paint. i etched what's black first, painted it, then sanded the whole box with 800grit sandpaper to remove the high spots, but still leave some of the imperfections, whipped it down with rubbing alcohol, then painted the trans red, then gloss clear when i was finished. the tans red is the duplicolor stuff that's supposed to look like you had a part anodized, i think it's called metalcast.
it was a normal etch, so all that's black was etched into the pedal, what's now red is what was unetched. glad you like, i'm pretty happy with it :icon_biggrin:.
Looks great Rocket!
Just found this etch from last year when I quickly proto'd and built a drum trigger module and then forgot about until recently when I needed just such a module to help debug another module.
At the time of the etching I thought it was a failure and didn't think about it, but now it has a charm of it's own.
(http://syinsi.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/MAP_4643-Medium-Small.png)
(http://syinsi.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/MAP_4644-Medium-Small.png)
And here's a video of it in action. It's the unit towards the bottom of the screen providing the beat. (warning -- no guitars):
http://youtu.be/I8VH3VZtUj8 (http://youtu.be/I8VH3VZtUj8)
THX2112, Great etch!!!
(y) (y) (y) (y)
Hi,
here is my first etch. I used the more-or-less standard method for this etch:
- grind surface with 600 grain
- Print with high density on HP presentation paper
- Let iron sit on top for a minute
- Slowly iron for like 10 minutes
- let enclosure cool down
- put enclosure in luke warm water
- remove paper gently with the hard side of a kitchen sponge
- correct mask with nailpolish
- Etch: Put NaOH on enclosere, let rest for 5 minutes, move liquid with a plastic brush for another 5 minutes (agitate), repeat 4 times
- clean with steel wool
- spray paint black (solvent-based)
- grind flat (black remains in pits)
- clear coat (acrylic)
Toner transfer:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/E8F67D84-9F04-45F6-A781-9FFB495EF6CC_zps3pareik0.jpg)[/URL]
Mask applied:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/0FFD96FA-1BA5-41DB-A26C-2D1927286AB2_zps1quszngn.jpg)[/URL]
Etching in Progress:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/B358BD5C-4F78-4915-94DF-9B8C54AAD9DF_zpsxnvb4v7j.jpg)[/URL]
Etched, Wiped:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/E431F7AA-C7CE-4E09-864D-55F178D37A73_zpsjmv4play.jpg)[/URL]
Etchted, Painted, Wiped again:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/2C7D58EF-875D-4138-9448-78FC9F2A34D0_zpshrcfkbhd.jpg)[/URL]
Mounted:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/EBF6ED5D-2460-4D47-AF30-3D1DCE80BDE7_zpsyetxrh06.jpg)[/URL]
Guts:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/3462D42B-0B05-4AC5-BDF0-3F3DB8ACC08D_zpsoider72m.jpg)[/URL]
On the Pedalboard:
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/8fcb210e-9597-4851-9d4a-6cef4ef72fb8_zpsuerblg0f.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i996.photobucket.com/albums/af85/mfunky1/Routing%20Fox/EBF6ED5D-2460-4D47-AF30-3D1DCE80BDE7_zpsyetxrh06.jpg)
^ nice! dig that pedal board matrix. I'm in the process of slopping together a bantam jack style switch board for similar reasons. i love the utility builds!
...reminds me, that I forgot to mention what this actually is: It is a patchbox/Buffer Gateway to connect a thick multicore with the amplifier (Input, Send, Return, Footswitches for Reverb, Master Volume Boost (M.V.B.), Boost, Channel select). It contains 4 switchable Klon Buffers for each section of the signal path (Input Buffer, Buffer to Amp, Buffer from Send, Buffer to Return). Depending on the pedals on the pedalboard (buffered/True Bypass), multicore-length (home/stage) and guitar (active/passive), I change the buffers I use (I never use all four, though). Everything is color-coded (Multicore, Jacks on board and amp), so the setup is super easy. I am happy so far but am still looking for a better solution to splice the multicore.
QuoteKlon Buffers
Is that from AoE? ;D
Quote from: garcho on May 12, 2015, 09:37:15 AM
QuoteKlon Buffers
Is that from AoE? ;D
What is AoE?
I'm not sure if this counts as it's not technically "etched," but I recently built a CNC kit and finally decided I had enough practice to try out engraving an enclosure with it. There are people out there that can get this good of results with ferric or caustic soda, but alas I am not one of those people :P So here it is, my RAT, built "stock" on the Tonepad layout.
(http://i.imgur.com/kukiBsI.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/2jCi14n.jpg?1)
(http://i.imgur.com/3fS26pJ.jpg?1)
^Nice! Can you provide a link to the CNC kit you built?
Quote from: Jdansti on May 21, 2015, 04:32:54 PM
^Nice! Can you provide a link to the CNC kit you built?
Sure can :)
http://www.zentoolworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=265
They even dropped the price $10 since I bought it :P
Beats the heck out of print and stick on stickers Nathan! Awesome job!! MC
Hey, where do you get those nice alum. knobs?
Quote from: italianguy63 on May 21, 2015, 04:41:54 PM
Beats the heck out of print and stick on stickers Nathan! Awesome job!! MC
It sure does :) That was part of the goal. I actually just used my last sheet of waterslides and have no intention of buying more! 8)
Quote from: italianguy63 on May 21, 2015, 04:41:54 PM
Hey, where do you get those nice alum. knobs?
Hands down my favorite knobs I've ever found, I had them in silver and black. I found them on eBay, loved them and bought out everything the seller had left, and he never restocked :( If anybody knows where I can get more, please tell me!
Quote from: vigilante397 on May 21, 2015, 04:37:02 PM
Quote from: Jdansti on May 21, 2015, 04:32:54 PM
^Nice! Can you provide a link to the CNC kit you built?
Sure can :)
http://www.zentoolworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=44&products_id=265
They even dropped the price $10 since I bought it :P
Thanks, Nathan!
they look like Kilo Int.'l knobs, are they?
this place: "knob source" (http://www.innovative-components.knobsource.com/category/all-categories-control-instrumental-knobs-2) is a great resource for discovering knobs you like, or stocking your wares if you're an online store or something (large minimum orders). or radio shack. :P
Quote from: garcho on May 22, 2015, 05:40:31 PM
they look like Kilo Int.'l knobs, are they?
I'm not entirely sure. I purchased them on the bay (seller: schrantastic), and if I remember right the guy said he gets them from Japan. It seemed like when I placed my first order there were tons of people selling them, but now I can't find a single one. I see some stuff pretty similar on knobsource, might look into that :) I just loved that they were big enough to be easy to grab but small enough that the pedal didn't seem like there was more knobs than enclosure, and they just look classy 8)
hmmm, i have those too, and got them through the bay too. i'll have to check my history to see who i got them from. i know for sure it wasn't the same seller as you. they're definitely one of my favorites too. btw, great job on the etch. i was thinking about doing the same thing, just was going to build a CNC from scratch, rather then a kit. glad to know i'm not so crazy and others are just as nuts to do it.
Quote from: rocket8810 on May 22, 2015, 10:03:49 PM
hmmm, i have those too, and got them through the bay too. i'll have to check my history to see who i got them from. i know for sure it wasn't the same seller as you. they're definitely one of my favorites too. btw, great job on the etch. i was thinking about doing the same thing, just was going to build a CNC from scratch, rather then a kit. glad to know i'm not so crazy and others are just as nuts to do it.
Let me know if you do figure out who you got them from, I would love to stock up!
And with the machine I would definitely say go for it. I have friends that have built them from scratch, and everything set up through the Arduino makes it pretty easy if you have access to power tools etc. to build the frame. Once you have a solid frame built it's just about guide rods, lead screws, and stepper motors/stepper drivers. I saw a guy post an instructable about building one out of plywood and using a dremmel for the spindle, and it looked great! 8)
The Rat came out great Nate! That's awesome! What bit and feed rate did you use ? Also what software did you do the design and tool paths in ?
Woo thats awesome to see some more cnc engraved boxes well done man!
Quote from: Mustachio on May 23, 2015, 09:39:44 PM
The Rat came out great Nate! That's awesome! What bit and feed rate did you use ? Also what software did you do the design and tool paths in ?
Woo thats awesome to see some more cnc engraved boxes well done man!
I've been keeping the feed rate pretty low (200) to make sure it stays where the machine can handle it without skipping steps, I plan to play with it when I get more time (and less projects) to see how fast it can go smoothly. I'm trying to remember which bit I used there. I'm pretty sure it was an LPKF 0.1-0.15mm universal milling bit, which seems to do pretty well with aluminum.
I'm a little embarrassed with the software I used, but I had been searching everywhere for an easy to use program that could do 2D without me having to read a manual or watch a dozen videos, but then I discovered the software I use for PCB layouts (DIP Trace)can also import image files and convert them to vector art for gerber export, then I import the gerber files into CopperCAM to design the toolpaths. I hope to get a bit fancier with that once I've really figured out what I'm doing, but I'm thrilled with the first attempt ;D Sure as hell beats my first time etching with ferric :P
Quote from: italianguy63 on April 11, 2015, 05:23:55 PM
Getting ready to drop acid...
I've talked about how I use HP presentation paper... you can see the one in the bottom right with no touchup hardly. (My sanding must have been good on that one).
Plus, you can see the black mask (touchup)-- done with paint pencil. Nice control, easy....
Finally blue 3M tape is fantastic. Easy, no cleanup-- no spray paint... etc.
Anyway-- a KLONe, Compressor, and 3 Overdrives getting ready to get dunked. I've been busy lately......
MC
^This appears to be the
exact method I just used (including the presentation paper, 3M tape and black marker) except instead of dunking I just placed a little ferric chloride on top and occasionally foam brushed it. It must not be a bad method since I arrived at it by trial and error before I saw this post LOL. :icon_biggrin: I already posted in another thread but I'll post the picks here just to be official to the Etched Enclosure thread...
(http://karywall.smugmug.com/Stompboxes/El-Gato-Overdrive/i-kj5gKSc/0/M/_DSC4236-Edit-M.jpg)
(http://karywall.smugmug.com/Stompboxes/El-Gato-Overdrive/i-KhbHZGg/0/M/_DSC4274-M.jpg)
(http://karywall.smugmug.com/Stompboxes/El-Gato-Overdrive/i-HJ4vQtz/0/M/_DSC4303-M.jpg)
Very elegant design and execution Kary, it came out beautiful! Love the LED placement too.
Nate your using this bit ? http://www.lpkfusa.com/Store/pages/ProductDetail.aspx?cat=11%2f42&cid=42&pid=30
That's super pricey geezus!!
And about the feed rate you said 200, 200 mm per minute ? There are some charts online that show a general ideal feed rate for different tools and materials, they can help take out some of the guess work. You can set the feed rate the spindle speed and the depth per pass depending on the material you will want to adjust those. Well what ever you used there looked good! But keep it in mind when you go to engrave other materials.
I just seen a deal on a 10 pack of 20 degree 0.1mm vbits for 3.99 free shipping.
Again that El Gato is smooooove!
Quote from: Mustachio on May 25, 2015, 08:09:59 PM
Nate your using this bit ? http://www.lpkfusa.com/Store/pages/ProductDetail.aspx?cat=11%2f42&cid=42&pid=30
That's super pricey geezus!!
Agreed :o I had no idea they were that pricey, I just befriended the TA in the engineering lab at school that operates the CNC machine, and he showed me which bits "nobody really uses and nobody would miss," so I have a set of twelve of the universal milling tools. Maybe I should just sell them :P They do pretty well for milling; they don't get as detailed as a v-bit but they remove more copper, which makes it easier to keep the pads solderable (not a real word?). But the more I use both the more I realize the v-bits are a better option, especially cost/quality ratio.
Quote from: Mustachio on May 25, 2015, 08:09:59 PM
I just seen a deal on a 10 pack of 20 degree 0.1mm vbits for 3.99 free shipping.
PM me the link maybe? ;D
cool rat engraving man...came out great 8)
love the cat too..sleek look to it.. 8)
when i was in spain i kept saying 'pobra gato' meaning 'poor cat' meaning
i had escaped our annoying cat for 2 weeks... ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 26, 2015, 05:09:24 AM
cool rat engraving man...came out great 8)
love the cat too..sleek look to it.. 8)
when i was in spain i kept saying 'pobra gato' meaning 'poor cat' meaning
i had escaped our annoying cat for 2 weeks... ;D
Thanks, I pulled my commercial RAT apart last year and it fell apart in my hands. I was pretty angry at what the internals were compared to the legacy I had been sold into. Terrible internal build quality etc. Pretty ugly. So, I fought back, made my own replacement and called it El Gato because cats eat rats. Except it is really more like a TS but I didn't care by then, but it's where the kitty came from. Then someone wanted one, then someone else, now I'm stuck building them LOL. :icon_eek:
^That and I had a distortion with a built in notch filter around 1981, I could have sworn it was called El Gato but have never found reference to it since. Would love to find that original schemo/name.
A friend of mine wanted a Wooly Mammoth, so I did a new layout with onboard pots and jacks and etched this somewhat steam-punkish enclosure. Turned out he even liked the sound of it.
The Wooligan
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Musikkram/Wooligan.jpg)
Quote from: lars-musik on May 29, 2015, 04:20:58 AM
The Wooligan
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Musikkram/Wooligan.jpg)
Gut shots!
Of course! (But why?)
But be warned: It is not very elegant. I had this polystyrene caps lying around and wanted to put them to good use. But, as so often when layouting I didn't believe in my own measurements and placed one of them too close to the jack. So I had to fiddle this giant unhappy looking blue film cap in where a flashy axial silvery should be. I re-designed it since then. So if somebody prefers this one over the very nice and small madbean layout, I'll happily share it.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Musikkram/wooligan_guts.jpg)
When i do a layout, before i etch the board i print out the pcb and use it to populate it on top of a piece of styrofoam with the components i'll be using. Quickly shows where revisiona are necessary. Don't plug in static sensitive parts.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/Cropped_IMG_0122.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_0133.jpg)
Quote from: davent on May 29, 2015, 06:28:39 PM
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/Cropped_IMG_0122.jpg)
Dave, you have some of the greatest ideas. I remember all of yours from the "shop tools and tips" thread a while back and all of your tricks were brilliant.
That's a great idea. If I wasn't me I'd probably do it just this way.
+1 Yep, great idea. If you do have static-sensitive parts, wrap the polystyrene in aluminium foil?
Or use that pink foam that Tayda ships ics on.
definitely like the woolgain.
here's a one of my latest builds. it's a Ge Fuzzface with an inverter, and a few special changes. i present to you the burning beard. i've got russian gt402v's in it, it can go from wall of fuzz wooly, to smooth and clear, and cleans up nicely with the volume on my guitar. the bias control is goes from around 4.5v to about 7v so it doesn't get starved and glitchy, i haven't found a setting i didn't like so far.
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/photo%202_zpsgsnurah9.jpg)
it's hard to see, but the paint is fairly unique. it's sort of a black cherry metallic, that i came up with mixing a few paints and using a tinted clear. i sanded away some of the tinted clear around the tips of the flames on the beard to give it that on fire look when the light hits it.
(http://i.imgur.com/81ZennYh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/81ZennY)
Heres my PT2399 delay, it´s electrolytically etches steel.
Quote from: NakedApe on June 08, 2015, 08:35:46 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/81ZennYh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/81ZennY)
Heres my PT2399 delay, it´s electrolytically etches steel.
WOW! Great looking etch and beautiful A+ design!
+1 cool... nice colour too.. 8)
+1. Amazing!
also +1 on the wow button.
+1 +1 +1 :D
Still not technically etching, but this is definitely a case where I wish I had used my caustic soda instead of my CNC machine. Engraving the outlines of pictures is a piece of cake and usually takes 20-30 minutes, but filling things in on pictures takes FOREVER. So this thing isn't done yet, and won't be for another few hours :icon_evil: I promise I'll post pictures when it is, but this is just a teaser for now :P
(http://i.imgur.com/iZB4vQp.jpg)
OoooOoooo That looks awesome! Yeah man pocket engraving takes a while compared to profile. You can get different tooling patterns if you specify raster cut direction, vcarve lets you select climb or conventional and set the raster angle, also weather or not it should do a profile pass first or last to clean up the edges. I find a lot of text looks better as a pocket especially when doing small text with a vbit.
That looks so good! Can't wait to see the final!
thats cheating... >:(
looks the nuts though... 8) 8) 8)
most people use printer of some sort. i haven't seen a hand-drawn etch here for years i don't think.
Stereo cab sim (condor cab inspired) / mixer / headphone amp
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/cab%20sim%203.0%20outside.jpg)
Andrew.
Andrew, aside from looking remarkably cool, that looks remarkably useful. 8)
Well, bad news time. When I said that the artwork being engraved by my CNC would take forever, that turned out to be about 9 1/2 hours. I had been letting it run for a couple hours or so then letting it cool down for awhile, but I got impatient and let it run the last 5 hours without stopping. About an hour from completion, the X-axis stopped moving, and upon inspection I found that the threaded bearing that connected it to the leadscrew (i.e. the thing that controlled how much it moves in which direction) was completely stripped out :-[ I ordered the replacement part which should be here within a week, but I need the pedal tomorrow so I decided to finish it up as is. It has a couple rough spots because aside from taking forever, it also broke 4 milling bits :'( Never doing anything like this ever again.
So here it it, Merlin (vale wizard)'s U-Boat analog sub-octave made off the fabulous PCB from TH-Custom. The knobs were supposed to be labelled "Octave" and "Tone", but the machine broke before it could finish writing so I affectionately call it "THE TAVE" 8)
(http://i.imgur.com/rS6HMHi.jpg)
LEDs mounted under clear-shaft pots with clear knobs
(http://i.imgur.com/xMrrT5p.jpg)
An obligatory gut shot. Not my tidiest ever, but admittedly in my top 5 :P
(http://i.imgur.com/FIKez1f.jpg)
The Tave worked out beautifully.
I would've guessed it was the z-axis that broke (i.e. the one bringing the tool up and down). If the x-axis stopped working I thought we'd see a straight line dug somewhere on the enclosure ???
etched enclosures.
that allows me to ask "vigil, did you use the normal life of a thing connecting to a leadscrew in one pedal, or did you get a machine that won't survive your workload?", which I will now proceed to do.
vigil, did you, etc.
Quote from: Perrow on June 17, 2015, 11:15:51 AM
I would've guessed it was the z-axis that broke
The *cough*
inconsistencies in the depth of some of the pockets came from a number of things: 1) The box was not perfectly level while engraving 2) Several bits broke, causing rough patches here and there and 3) related to 2) I had to start over a couple times with a different bit than before, causing very visible *cough*
inconsistencies.
Quote from: duck_arse on June 17, 2015, 11:33:14 AM
that allows me to ask "vigil, did you use the normal life of a thing connecting to a leadscrew in one pedal, or did you get a machine that won't survive your workload?
Suffice to say a little bit of both :P This was nowhere near the first pedal my machine has worked on, though it was definitely the most taxing. I didn't think my workload was that heavy, but the threaded pieces I stripped out are made of moderately soft brass, so it may just be poor design. Either way, the company that makes it sells spares for EVERY SINGLE PART OF THE MACHINE on their website, I don't even have to call or look through a stocklist. The part I stripped was $8 for a new one, so I ordered a spare just in case :P
I have another project I did before this one that I meant to put up, but I can't seem to find the pictures. They'll be up soon though ;D
Hey it still came out looking pretty good! Breaking stuff is a right of passage, at least its a cheap easy fix :)
9 and a half hours seems pretty long for that design and at that size, how many passes , what was the depth per pass and what was the feed rate speed ? I know pocket milling takes much longer especially when the tip of the bit is small but 9 and a half hours seems a bit long.
Check out this page for feed rates and info on depth passes
http://www.2linc.com/engraving_assistance_feeds_speeds.htm
I'd check those rates against some others online and use it as a loose guide and adjust as needed.
I know one time I didn't check my feed rate on a new tool path, it was pre set to 100 inches per minute , I was using a 1/4" end mill and it snapped pretty fast. Another time my collet failed and a 1/4" end mill started coming loose and ran itself into the waste board pretty deep, luckly I hit stop in time!
That was with a feed rate of 200 mm/minute, which is approximately 7.87 inches/minute. I'm not positive what RPM my spindle was going at, but based on the voltage from the power supply I believe it's going to be around 7000-8000. I played around with feed rates and unfortunately my stepper motors just can't go faster than 200 without skipping steps :( So I've just accepted the fact that large complicated things like this (this was my first and will likely be my last with pockets) will take a very long time.
There are definitely a lot more exciting stories from this than from regular etching :P Like on this box I had it stuck to the table with double-sided tape, but I realized it wasn't quite aligned right, so I tried to pull it off without even thinking about how close my hand was to the spindle (it wasn't spinning at the time, I'm not that dumb :P) with a brand new V-bit on it. The tape stuck pretty well but it gave all at once and the v-bit went straight through my thumbnail and into the flesh underneath. It's still a little tender. :icon_mrgreen:
Anyway, very useful chart, thanks for that :) I'm looking into getting some proper steppers for my machine, and this will definitely be handy for motors that can actually handle speeds like that.
Quote from: vigilante397 on June 17, 2015, 11:20:33 PM
The *cough* inconsistencies in the depth of some of the pockets came from a number of things
I had no problem with the inconsistencies in depth, what I meant was simply that if the x-axis stopped and the y-axis and z-axis continued working I would've thought it would carve a straight line somewhere on the enclosure (where the x-axis stopped).
Ouch! Vbit through the finger nail, that's gotta hurt! I know I've stabbed myself a few times but not that bad!
Some times slow and steady wins the race, I don't think going super fast with metals is a great idea, I think shallow passes is good and the right rpm spindle is key. Cutting oil will help big time but kinda smells(not that bad).
I was drilling some bar stock on the drill press last week and my bit got tired and wanted to take a nap haha, So I added a few drops of 3-in-1 oil and it started cutting like butter. It also threw some hot smoking hunks of steel on my hand and I couldn't move cause I was holding the piece by hand. Wasn't a big deal didn't hurt really and you don't wanna wear gloves working on a drill press.
I think you might be able to use a larger clear out bit on some of the big areas of the pocket and then make another tool path to get the fine lines, split your work load up into multiple tool paths and give the machine a break in between.
I don't know much about your machine , but it looks like a quality machine. It uses nema23 steppers right ? those are pretty good. I have a feeling your machine should do more then 200mm/min without skipping steps. I did a quick search and a forum post popped up saying people running them at 1500mm/min
http://forums.zentoolworks.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2430
I had never heard of using oil, but it seems like that could help a bit to smooth things out :)
As for the feedrate, there are two different leadscrews available for my machine, the F8 and the standard. I believe the max rate of the F8 is 1500, but if I understand right the max for the standard leadscrew (which I have) is 400 mm/min, still twice what I am running. I have no reason not to believe what I read in the forums, but for whatever reason my motors will not run smoothly above about 220 and I lose a lot of steps. ??? I think I may post around Zentoolworks' forum and see if anyone else has had this problem.
And I believe it's been awhile since I've thanked you for all your help and advice on all things CNC, so I shall do it again :)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/20/1ec31da2cdc7dae3d423522bb43df097.jpg)
AMZ mini Booster with Battery in a 1590a. Unfortunately, the clear coat made the black paint flake, even though it is acrylic (and the black is based on "Kunstharz", another solvent...). Looks a but beat-up, let's call it "vintage" [emoji6]
Quote from: mfunky on June 20, 2015, 03:49:19 AM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/20/1ec31da2cdc7dae3d423522bb43df097.jpg)
AMZ mini Booster with Battery in a 1590a. Unfortunately, the clear coat made the black paint flake, even though it is acrylic (and the black is based on "Kunstharz", another solvent...). Looks a but beat-up, let's call it "vintage" [emoji6]
so unusual to see two audio jacks side-by-side, in-line with each other in a 1590A. i'm boggled to understand how there's possibly room but there I can see it.
Glad you noticed the jack alignment, thanks! Gut shots for the booster can be found here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=111341.msg1024114. Here is a link to the 1590a picture thread, where I included a drill template for this: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=64752.msg1023485#msg1023485
Quote from: mfunky on June 20, 2015, 04:29:30 AM
Glad you noticed the jack alignment, thanks! Gut shots for the booster can be found here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=111341.msg1024114. There is even a link to the 1590a picture thread, where I included a drill template for this.
whoa... lol cool thanks. and a battery :S
darron, just had a look at your enclosures. Total envy, please tell me, that you do this for a living ;-)
Quote from: mfunky on June 20, 2015, 04:39:32 AM
darron, just had a look at your enclosures. Total envy, please tell me, that you do this for a living ;-)
thanks heaps :) i started with acid etches, just think they are so raw and cool.. just the metal and the guts!
i do it full time as of very recently. the work has been there for are long time but i still don't pay myself enough :)
I like etching as well, not only for the look. With etching, I can keep working on the boxes. With decal, I have to print, WAIT, clear coat, WAIT, slide on, WAIT, coat again, WAIT. And than, decals can produce unreliable results as well. Decals are like making a fruit salad, etching is grilling a T- Bone. Both food, yet different...
I'd like to a see you drop an etched enclosure and ruin it with a little chip in the corner (sarcasm).
Haven't done one for a whole, but for a clear I used polyurethane spray designed to apply directly to aluminium car wheels. That stuff was tough.
Will look for that stuff!
OK Guys... I will "unveil the artwork" on my Tychobrahe Octavia.
This is merely "Prototype#2"-- I did a quick acid etch to check the image spacing. I have some slight issues... It should be slightly taller overall (note cramping at the knobs), and "Hex" should be lower... but, that is why I did the prototype, right!?!
Anyway-- this will ultimately be a my 1st laser etch... Hence, why I am working on that K40 laser with Jimbo. The enclosures are ordered from the powdercoater... and this should start real "production" units pretty soon. MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/LaTundaProto2_zpszqnay2kb.jpg)
Nice work! :)
You know, I'm interesting in this Tycobrahe Octavia. Is there a substantial difference of volume between the octafuzz and fuzz?
Thanks! ;)
Mark- Nice! This should be featured in a "top 100 effects pedals" article.
Thanks Russ. You are too kind...
I actually needed to build another to check out some other issues... I have a color changing LED in it now, and I needed to determine where the filter cap needed to be added (to keep the "creepy" sound from happening) -- accomplished. Also, the noise filtering on the power input is not working as designed. I have to disconnect one of the grounds. As you can see the LED is lit with no jack in the input jack. (That is almost resolved now too).. It is a very nice pedal though!!
Some other things worth noting. "Tychobrahe Octavia" is trademarked. So, it is "La Tunda". It will merely be marketed as an "Octave Fuzz" pedal...
E.B.. I was playing with this early today, and NO, I did not notice a sizable volume difference. BUT, I built this pedal with some GE's with a FV of about .39V. The octave effect is minimal. So, I need to pull them out and put in some with a FV of more like .33V to .35V...
No rest for the wicked.
MC
nice work, itg. did you have to pay joan fonda by the hour for the sitting/posing? (or was it jane cusack?) nice footswitch placement.
is it too late for a "name Mark's pedal" competition? prizes? (https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/75/173242642_4c8c43c2d2_z.jpg?zz=1)
Makes a nice change from a sausage, duck. BTW, who's Joan Fonda? Is it Jane Fonda's Russian (bride) cousin? ;)
Never mind the pedal... But, WOW, those prizes!!!!!!
david
Elijah-Baley--
I put in different diodes-- big difference. There is a change in volume (louder on Octave). I guess that is something for you to "solve"-- as it is not so significant as to bother me... MC
Nice......for a second i thought she had a bad piles problem.. :D
Quote from: italianguy63 on June 20, 2015, 08:26:53 AM
OK Guys... I will "unveil the artwork" on my Tychobrahe Octavia.
This is merely "Prototype#2"-- I did a quick acid etch to check the image spacing. I have some slight issues... It should be slightly taller overall (note cramping at the knobs), and "Hex" should be lower... but, that is why I did the prototype, right!?!
Anyway-- this will ultimately be a my 1st laser etch... Hence, why I am working on that K40 laser with Jimbo. The enclosures are ordered from the powdercoater... and this should start real "production" units pretty soon. MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/LaTundaProto2_zpszqnay2kb.jpg)
jesus marc. just looking at the enclosure, i can tell it was well worth the wait.
(http://www.quickmeme.com/img/31/31d7337f5851f7cd9c4c09c824dab3df7089328d1a44818f109d5f03a6fb589a.jpg)
Thanks-- hoping the "finished" final work is awesome.. The concept is good.
Quote from: italianguy63 on June 20, 2015, 08:26:53 AM
OK Guys... I will "unveil the artwork" on my Tychobrahe Octavia.
This is merely "Prototype#2"-- I did a quick acid etch to check the image spacing. I have some slight issues... It should be slightly taller overall (note cramping at the knobs), and "Hex" should be lower... but, that is why I did the prototype, right!?!
Anyway-- this will ultimately be a my 1st laser etch... Hence, why I am working on that K40 laser with Jimbo. The enclosures are ordered from the powdercoater... and this should start real "production" units pretty soon. MC
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/LaTundaProto2_zpszqnay2kb.jpg)
mmmmmm yeeeesssssss......
Very nice!!!
I have to double post this one (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg1024778#msg1024778). This is the first time I etched the labels for the jacks on the sides as well. A Rangemaster+Tonebender+Big Muff.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Bender/Triple_Bender_02.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Bender/Triple_Bender_03.jpg)
Sweet build lars... 8)
Here's another Taiseidou reverb I just finished. This one has a new version of the BTDR-3H that I modified to fit (the first version fit just fine but the manufacturer has made the outcase larger)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/24/302a8d9097f1685beebf71da054215d8.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/24/e462510f014612d9c8c7f5eb57366ce0.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/24/a1650d3856fe7114b65c4117e191821d.jpg)
This is going to be a lm741 diode clipped distortion (MXR style) with added tone control and clean blend.
I don't sand my enclosures - just an acetone cleaning and then press and peel. Not as pretty as some - but it is fine for me.
Andrew.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30050282/distortion%2B%20shell.jpg)
Looks great!
yeah looks cool... 8)
Finally getting around to posting more pictures. This is a much more successful attempt at art via CNC. It's a stock Big Muff Pi, and I remember seeing this artwork idea posted by someone else on this forum so I decided to steal it :P I think I got the first 300 or so digits.
(http://i.imgur.com/DNUyqsN.jpg)
Switching over to a new "brand name" with a new logo :)
(http://i.imgur.com/bxgFW8q.jpg)
That's cool Nathan! You could do a similar pedal with a "Clutch" / binary theme: 1000011.. And, everybody appreciates a good Sushi Box. 8)
MC
Quote from: italianguy63 on June 26, 2015, 01:53:59 AM
That's cool Nathan! You could do a similar pedal with a "Clutch" / binary theme: 1000011.. And, everybody appreciates a good Sushi Box. 8)
MC
Thanks :) When I saw how well this one turned out I immediately thought of doing a binary job 8)
Super cool... I had started "branding" the backs of some of mine too:
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/GDMC_Back_zpsfensruev.jpg)
Great minds think alike!! ;)
MC
Sheesh... you corporates! ::)
Nice work, both of you. :)
Quote from: vigilante397 on June 26, 2015, 01:08:42 AM
.... art via CNC....
(http://i.imgur.com/DNUyqsN.jpg)
awww, CNC? I was so hoping you'd tell us of all the punching you'd done. it looks good, tho.
wow those all look great. i never thought about branding the back of my boxes.
that big muff is awesome. i love how the SUSHI BOX is hidden at the end in the written out pi. so cool.
Quote from: rocket8810 on June 26, 2015, 08:24:11 PM
i love how the SUSHI BOX is hidden at the end in the written out pi. so cool.
Thanks ;D you can also see VOL GAIN and TONE, as well as BIG MUFF PI hidden in there. The letters are red so they stand out a bit better, but only when caught in the right light ;)
Another engraved one I did a couple weeks ago, this is (yet another) Rebote 2.5. Obviously not a tape delay, but I like putting the tape on top to make people think of that :P Labels are a little off center, but otherwise a very satisfactory pedal. 8)
(http://i.imgur.com/G39RN1a.jpg)
Finally finished my first etched enclosure. Turned out pretty good, couple little boo-boos where my masking was not good enough. Anyway, main thing is it sounds awesome. It's a version of GGG's late 60s fuzz face, with charge pump and AC128's. Really wooly sounding. It's a belated gift for my dad for Father's Day. Hope he digs it!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Photo%20Jun%2027%2C%202%2031%2022%20PM.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Photo%20Jun%2027%2C%202%2042%2032%20PM.jpg)
nice first post, statzern, welcome to the forum.
Welcome statzern! Nice gift for Dad!
Speaking as a father, there isn't even the slightest chance he won't dig it. Awesome present!
cool first post and first etch...nice prezzie.. 8)
welcome.. 8)
agreed. and i love that it says "By Odin's Beard." absolutely awesome.
Quote from: darron on June 15, 2015, 07:14:52 AM
most people use printer of some sort. i haven't seen a hand-drawn etch here for years i don't think.
I did some handdrawn etches, think I'll do some more when I finally find a new home/workshop
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/GR-BMP-20_zpskcuxubml.jpg)(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u676/ZvZwendel/DH-Build-03_zpsbelo1hyi.jpg)
Thanks everyone. I am getting ready to do my second one. Upping the complexity, hoping for the best. Will post when done!
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/09/fe8faa647cb13d3957b4e6d773fff899.jpg)
Axis Fuzz enclosure. Amz mini boost.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/10/a37d5e9bf2ba529558d422daab3cca6f.jpg)
Done.(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/c3c3870bf3492dd580e74475f8e6015c.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/225c6aefb19d3bd0bbfed6a7e0eddfe8.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07/11/ac8cd62e1f8e926b28309b7e9957eb5e.jpg)
Very nice!
I keep having issues with FeCl etching under my mask, even though I'm putting nail polish over the toner and tape over that. This one got it way worse than my last one. I think I may be leaving it in the solution too long - like in Deadastronaut's tutorial he just dips it in and takes it out right away. But also, my etch takes about 2-3 min, and I can actually see vapor coming off the enclosure - in other words it's a very vigorous etch. I am wondering if I should try NaOH to slow things down? Perhaps the FeCl is melting the toner because it gets so hot?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Photo%20Jul%2012%2C%209%2044%2053%20AM.jpg)
Quote from: statzern on July 12, 2015, 10:00:58 AM
I keep having issues with FeCl etching under my mask, even though I'm putting nail polish over the toner and tape over that. This one got it way worse than my last one. I think I may be leaving it in the solution too long - like in Deadastronaut's tutorial he just dips it in and takes it out right away. But also, my etch takes about 2-3 min, and I can actually see vapor coming off the enclosure - in other words it's a very vigorous etch. I am wondering if I should try NaOH to slow things down? Perhaps the FeCl is melting the toner because it gets so hot?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Photo%20Jul%2012%2C%209%2044%2053%20AM.jpg)
I know you weren't posting this to say "look at my amazing etching job," but frankly it is a killer etching job, way better than anything I ever did with ferric, that's for sure 8)
Quote from: statzern on July 12, 2015, 10:00:58 AM
I keep having issues with FeCl etching under my mask, even though I'm putting nail polish over the toner and tape over that. This one got it way worse than my last one. I think I may be leaving it in the solution too long - like in Deadastronaut's tutorial he just dips it in and takes it out right away. But also, my etch takes about 2-3 min, and I can actually see vapor coming off the enclosure - in other words it's a very vigorous etch. I am wondering if I should try NaOH to slow things down? Perhaps the FeCl is melting the toner because it gets so hot?
I have read several times that using "used" FeCl is the key. Right out of the bottle is too strong. Some people use the ferric that is left over after several etches.
Of course, this is just what I read. I have yet to etch a successful enclosure... :(
Yes, do try NaOH!
Or dilute your acid.
Or try applying your etchant only to selected parts, by using a pipette or a brush. In that way things won't get so hot.
Thanks for the recs guys. I will probably separate out my FeCl to start getting a weaker stock than right out of the bottle. But NaOH is still interesting. Will keep posting!
I have been a huge advocate of the RAT and it has been my favorite distortion for quite some time now, but after about my fourth Dr. Boogie build I realized that it was more the sound I wanted, so I had to have one. I came across a beautiful 1590B layout (on accident, I might add) and it turned out brilliantly. And since I used some Chinese characters on my last build I figured it was time for some old Mongolian script. I call this one "Mongol Drive" :icon_twisted:
(http://i.imgur.com/BJnhnvS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/rTwAsar.jpg)
Awesome! Got guts?
I surmise Nathan should just about be out of components by now.
A Tayda coupon should be forthcoming!! :icon_evil:
nice one nathan... 8)
funny i have a dr boogie on bread at the mo, its like revisiting an old good friend.
i never really got on with the tonestack though , so i'm looking at /tinkering/changing/swapping it...
...
one thing ive defo learnt with distortions........
dirt pedals that sound crap without an amp are great with an amp...
and pedals that sound great without an amp sound crap with one...my thought for the day.. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 15, 2015, 05:33:46 AM
dirt pedals that sound crap without an amp are great with an amp...
and pedals that sound great without an amp sound crap with one...my thought for the day.. 8)
Thank you, Confucius. :icon_cool:
Some of my last dirty etches
(http://s18.postimg.org/simiu3kl5/IMG_20150718_122248.jpg)
Getting back in the etching game - first project in 4 years! woohoo! Chorus pedal
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/angel1.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/zibrazibra/media/angel1.jpg.html)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/angel2.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/zibrazibra/media/angel2.jpg.html)
All these are finishes, along with the painted one, that I am unable to make :icon_sad:
Really good skills, indeed...
A+!
Love that leaded glass window design...nice,..
That's just beautiful, T-flex!
Quote from: T-Flex on July 20, 2015, 12:28:54 AM
Getting back in the etching game - first project in 4 years! woohoo! Chorus pedal
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/angel1.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/zibrazibra/media/angel1.jpg.html)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g51/zibrazibra/angel2.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/zibrazibra/media/angel2.jpg.html)
wow, just awesome.
Righto this one's for Mr MC Italianguy63.
I haven't ventured into etching for a wee while so thought I'd post my latest effort here, as you can see I'm still way too lazy to finely sand it prior to etching. This one was done with caustic soda using a pipette and normal run of the mill photo paper instead of my usual ferric chloride and pnp blue.
I painted it black as you do sanded it off then used enamel paint to add some colour, but I wouldn't recommend it! way too thick and difficult to paint around 'lush' and the flowers as you can see. Mind you I still like the 'handpainted' DIY look it gives.
No knobs for the bigger shafts yet and a rear etch and gut shot just...because...well I'm a sad man! So here it is my lush chorus (mini me / small clone.)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/661/a8F6yI.jpg)(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/673/DE9gmw.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/909/t2Tz0l.jpg)
Very Cool Billy! I dig it!!!
MC ;D
Here's my first finished pedal, a Distortion+ clone by FuzzDog, aka Toxic Minx.
Etched with caustic soda.
(http://i.imgur.com/j0qbu4J.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/FsIpMMC.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/fJLKWaT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/cEkCyDN.jpg)
Quote from: Cinder on August 02, 2015, 11:29:19 AM
Here's my first finished pedal, a Distortion+ clone by FuzzDog, aka Toxic Minx.
Etched with caustic soda.
I call bullshit! No way that is your first etch and/or finished pedal. It is too perfect. Perfectly positioned etch on the enclosure, perfectly formed 3D pattern, and so on, etc. If it is your first, then I hate you, lol.
Quote from: bloxstompboxes on August 02, 2015, 01:29:39 PM
Quote from: Cinder on August 02, 2015, 11:29:19 AM
Here's my first finished pedal, a Distortion+ clone by FuzzDog, aka Toxic Minx.
Etched with caustic soda.
I call bullshit! No way that is your first etch and/or finished pedal. It is too perfect. Perfectly positioned etch on the enclosure, perfectly formed 3D pattern, and so on, etc. If it is your first, then I hate you, lol.
Don't be a hater my friend ;)
To ease your suspicions, it really is my first finished pedal, but I did spend the better part of two days finding a good method for the etching process, a lot of failed attempts that is.
I am however quite happy with the result in the end, and hopefully the next one(s) will be faster and with less mistakes.
Cinder - amazing work!!!
Cinder that's a beauty not sure about the minx but that pedal's the business great etch.
Did you use a pipette to apply the caustic soda and did you sand the box smooth forever before etching to get those terrific results.
can agree more. my first etch was no where near that good. i've been way too nervous to do something that intricate. how the hell did you get that design onto the enclosure?
Quote from: peterg on August 02, 2015, 05:26:11 PM
Cinder - amazing work!!!
Cheers :)
Quote from: mcknib on August 02, 2015, 10:03:06 PM
Cinder that's a beauty not sure about the minx but that pedal's the business great etch.
Did you use a pipette to apply the caustic soda and did you sand the box smooth forever before etching to get those terrific results.
I applied the soda with a wide brush. Caustic soda does result in a really nice and clean etch, but the process is really slow, I think the above pedal took an hour and a half to etch before I got deep enough so that I could clearly feel the pattern with my fingers. It was sort of cold outside though, so I guess the process was slowed down by that too.
I sanded the top of the enclosure to a flat 400 grit surface, the most important thing was to get it really flat to begin with so I started by grinding it on a belt sander. It can be done by hand too, but I couldn't get my hands on the 120 grit wet sand paper this weekend, so I went for the belt sander which made quick work of the initial flattening. Getting from the rough belt sander scratches (100 grit probably) to 400 doesn't take more than about 10 minutes or so.
Quote from: rocket8810 on August 03, 2015, 01:06:50 AM
can agree more. my first etch was no where near that good. i've been way too nervous to do something that intricate. how the hell did you get that design onto the enclosure?
Haha, cheers mate, I always aim high when I do something like this. My girlfriend said I'd been "frantic" the past two days, because I have a really hard time quitting before I get the results that I want.
To get the design onto the enclosure I used a 157g glossy cheapo photo paper found at my local hardware store (20 A6 sheets for $5, each sheet can take no more than one design, but the paper is good). I then applied it with an iron on max heat. For the above pedal I heated the design for 5 minutes, but I think you can go for 10 to get more perfect adhesion, I found that the most important thing is to
not put pressure on the design when ironing, it will get smudged out. I dont remember how many times I sanded the toner off the enclosure due to smudging, but once I read about the pressure being the culprit I could heat it for a really long time and the design would stay neat.
Glad you guys enjoyed the pedal, it sounds really nice even though it doesn't have as much "chug" as I like for hard rock or metal, it's really nice for rock in general.
I've got plenty of PCB's laying around, so I'll be making more pedals later, but I'm a knifemaker as well, so I have to balance my efforts :) You can check my knives out at www.arcticknives.com.
Quote from: Cinder on August 02, 2015, 11:29:19 AM
Here's my first finished pedal, a Distortion+ clone by FuzzDog, aka Toxic Minx.
Etched with caustic soda.
(http://i.imgur.com/j0qbu4J.jpg)
Tight work, bravo!
Nice etch man...cool... 8)
it was worth the wait for your cutting-edge etch.
Quote from: Cinder on August 02, 2015, 01:32:26 PM
Quote from: bloxstompboxes on August 02, 2015, 01:29:39 PM
Quote from: Cinder on August 02, 2015, 11:29:19 AM
Here's my first finished pedal, a Distortion+ clone by FuzzDog, aka Toxic Minx.
Etched with caustic soda.
I call bullshit! No way that is your first etch and/or finished pedal. It is too perfect. Perfectly positioned etch on the enclosure, perfectly formed 3D pattern, and so on, etc. If it is your first, then I hate you, lol.
Don't be a hater my friend ;)
To ease your suspicions, it really is my first finished pedal, but I did spend the better part of two days finding a good method for the etching process, a lot of failed attempts that is.
I am however quite happy with the result in the end, and hopefully the next one(s) will be faster and with less mistakes.
Not a hater, Just envious I suppose is all. :) I may try etching an enclosure some day but was always a little scared to try it. Your success is encouraging though.
crazy man. i swear i could never get the photo paper transfers to work. it may be due to too much pressure. :o
might have to give it another go, instead of using P n' P paper, that shit gets expensive.
btw, i checked out your knife work, simply gorgeous.
Quote from: rocket8810 on August 03, 2015, 04:19:33 PM
crazy man. i swear i could never get the photo paper transfers to work. it may be due to too much pressure. :o
might have to give it another go, instead of using P n' P paper, that shit gets expensive.
I used to swear by PnP Blue until I tried magazine paper (I use Better Homes and Gardens :P), and now I swear by magazine paper.
Quote from: Cinder on August 02, 2015, 11:29:19 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/j0qbu4J.jpg)
Seriously though, just whoa. 8)
Here's my second finished pedal for your viewing pleasure.
It's the "Black Sabbath in a Box" pedal called War Pig by FuzzDog, I just played it some, and yes - there is Black Sabbath smeared all over this thing.
The enclosure is etched with caustic soda as the last one, took about 1,5h for the etching.
The knob labels you can't see are "Presence" and "Gain", I couldn't get them into my shots.
(http://i.imgur.com/RjPL5bc.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RUBHvkh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/01nd5YD.jpg)
it's frightening to think how good your pedals will look once you've got some practise and get your methods right.
Quote from: duck_arse on August 07, 2015, 10:56:21 AM
it's frightening to think how good your pedals will look once you've got some practise and get your methods right.
With the War Pig pedal above I'm really just trying to push the limit and see how tiny details it's possible to make.
The badges on his chest are about the smallest things that are still visible, I don't think you can make anything smaller than that.
The resolution of the acid through the toner mask is pretty awesome though, I was surprised at how well the face came out.
Got plenty more to come in time, I got a whole bunch of PCBs to work with :)
I really like working with these small projects, making pedals and small electronics, it's fun and results are not too far down the road usually.
it took 1.5 h for the etch? what was your concentration? does a weaker concentration for longer times give you better detail and penetrance?
the reason I as is because i think I may have been too agressive (40-50% naoh sol) in the past.
Quote from: noobamp on August 07, 2015, 03:20:50 PM
it took 1.5 h for the etch? what was your concentration? does a weaker concentration for longer times give you better detail and penetrance?
the reason I as is because i think I may have been too agressive (40-50% naoh sol) in the past.
I'm using caustic soda and it's a 40% solution (100ml water and 40g soda powder).
The reason why it has taken me so long is because I've done the etchings outdoors, and the solution cools after 15 minutes or so, which makes the reaction slow down a lot.
that is smart. I have ablso been using 40g in 100cc. but the etch gets super hot and melts the toner. thanks for the insight!
Quote from: noobamp on August 07, 2015, 05:40:48 PM
that is smart. I have ablso been using 40g in 100cc. but the etch gets super hot and melts the toner. thanks for the insight!
Yeah I don't brush it on right away, let it cool for a minute or two. I tried using muriatic acid before, and dipping the enclosure into that stuff gets insanely hot, then I had melted toner.
But I suppose it also has to do with what toner you have, I'm sure the melting temperature can vary between brands.
Really nice etching there Cinder!
I think NaOH is gaining ground.
Quote from: Pettol on August 08, 2015, 12:48:10 PMI think NaOH is gaining ground.
Indeed but is there a resist other than laser toner? Tried to find one but only got references for industrial masks unavailable to DIYers.
Same question here. I heard glue would work, but haven't tried yet...
Quote from: Spinoo on August 08, 2015, 01:12:36 PM
Quote from: Pettol on August 08, 2015, 12:48:10 PMI think NaOH is gaining ground.
Indeed but is there a resist other than laser toner? Tried to find one but only got references for industrial masks unavailable to DIYers.
Some time ago I posted a photosensitive film method. It works well. The only hitch is it doesn't work with NaOH. That would strip it off the box. I use ferric cholride and cupric chloride with it.
I have used humbrol enamel for touch ups. It seems to resist NaOH. I baked in the oven to harden it, if I remember correctly.
Cyanoacrylate (superglue) works as a touch-up as well. I want to try the enamel paint though as superglue is impossible to paint with if you need to correct a shape or something.
StewMac has brush on cyano, suppose to be slow curing so you can work it with the brush. I'm sure shipping to Sweden would be quite nasty.
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Glues_and_Adhesives/Glues/StewMac_Super_Glues/StewMac_Brush-on_Super_Glue.html
I've tried super glue but it didn't work. It was more of a panic thing though, so maybe I should give it another try. Normal glue seems tricky - at first it's flows uncontrollably and then, too soon, it has cured.
The stewmac product might work, but yes, the shipping costs are ridiculous.
Great job on the etching and especially for your first ones Cinder, NaOH is the way forward man! I used it on Pettol's recommendation and have never looked back since! :)
A quick question to you etchers - when you fill in the etching with paint or whatever you use, do you go for filling up the etched grooves entirely so you get a flat surface with metal and paint on the same level, or do you just paint a little bit so you get the etching to remain deep enough to feel it with your fingers?
I haven't quite decided what's best yet.. I feel that its cool to be able to feel the artwork (part of why you do etching?), but at the same time its really nice to cover up pores and other small irregularities that the etched surfaces have, and the paint surface becomes really nice and uniform when you sand it flat.
Stay tuned for some more pictures, I got 3 pedals coming up!
I am not patient enough during the etching, so mine always come out with the paint flush to the metal
my first kick at the can using ferric chloride. The dark and faded black areas are because of the reflections in the clear coat.
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/zillathegorilla/Hobbies/Music/klon%20etch_zpsv2grgjet.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/zillathegorilla/media/Hobbies/Music/klon%20etch_zpsv2grgjet.jpg.html)
Looking good Zilla, chaotic and grungy.
Zilla- I can't wait to see your tenth kick!
Hello guys! Greetings from Brazil!
First time posting in this topic; Here's my last project, and the first one with an etched enclosure: the Song of Time Delay!
I used photosensitive ink and ferric chloride, what do you guys think? :icon_mrgreen:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpl1/t31.0-8/11143398_870755573010644_107026273318268159_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-gru1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/t31.0-8/11953488_870755536343981_521631640490139350_o.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtp1/t31.0-8/11922853_870755439677324_1087164708256001403_o.jpg)
-Ferri Handmades-
Tethinhas - hello and welcome to the forum. your etch looks great, and you get extra points for doing all the sides (but your pictures could be a little smaller).
Very nice etch all round, the theme looks kinda tribalish in parts are those Brazilian tribal symbols? and Duck_arse is right you've sure got massive hands :icon_biggrin:
glorious :D
Sounds like someone from Brazil likes Zelda very much :)
Tethinas
nice design man...cool... 8)
tip, before etching, hold your prepared box under a light and you may see
tiny silver dots where the toner missed...dab a little nail varnish on those....
itll come out perfect then...no dots. ..just my 2p..
Quote from: duck_arse on September 10, 2015, 11:05:40 AM
Tethinhas - hello and welcome to the forum. your etch looks great, and you get extra points for doing all the sides (but your pictures could be a little smaller).
Thanks for the receptivity! Will take care at the next time!
Quote from: mcknib on September 10, 2015, 03:32:32 PM
Very nice etch all round, the theme looks kinda tribalish in parts are those Brazilian tribal symbols? and Duck_arse is right you've sure got massive hands :icon_biggrin:
Thanks!
Funny fact: The Majora's Mask was inspired in a brazilian tribe called Marajoaras :icon_lol:
Quote from: darron on September 10, 2015, 08:18:57 PM
glorious :D
Thanks sir!
Quote from: Hatredman on September 10, 2015, 08:21:03 PM
Sounds like someone from Brazil likes Zelda very much :)
I could not describe a better way :icon_lol:
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 11, 2015, 04:12:08 AM
Tethinas
nice design man...cool... 8)
tip, before etching, hold your prepared box under a light and you may see
tiny silver dots where the toner missed...dab a little nail varnish on those....
itll come out perfect then...no dots. ..just my 2p..
Thank you for the compliments and the tips! :icon_mrgreen:
A couple of builds: a rehoused fab delay, a footswitch for a ss amp (no guts,it´s just wires to switches :P ), and a crunch box, modified ;) . https://goo.gl/photos/wGaaVsxQyHqe2oCx6 (https://goo.gl/photos/wGaaVsxQyHqe2oCx6)
So here are two of the three pedals I promised earlier. Why only two? Well... because I drilled a f***ing 14mm hole for the footswitch on the last one, when the hole need to be 12mm...
Anyway, here is my Big Muff Pi Ram's Head version, I really like the way this one sounds!
(http://i.imgur.com/TvXk8tL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IzjwRpF.jpg)
And here is my Rat Distortion. Both PCBs are from Fuzzdogs pedal parts. The unmarked switch is for diode clipping on both.
(http://i.imgur.com/W4quYOu.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Tokr1Ei.jpg)
Quote from: Cinder on September 13, 2015, 08:10:12 AM
So here are two of the three pedals I promised earlier. Why only two? Well... because I drilled a f***ing 14mm hole for the footswitch on the last one, when the hole need to be 12mm...
Anyway, here is my Big Muff Pi Ram's Head version, I really like the way this one sounds!
(http://i.imgur.com/TvXk8tL.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/IzjwRpF.jpg)
I especially like the Ram's Head. Nice etches cinder.
Very cool artworks!
A washer for your 14 mm hole?
Hi everyone,
back after a long time off due to personal reasons.
I'd like to show you some of the pedals I've built.
(https://scontent-mad1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11996918_159028517770856_5238730552244370856_n.jpg?oh=525dfa3881c624958eb26befeeb542f1&oe=56986EB7)
and yes...she's my tester and official endorser ;)
She's really beautiful :icon_wink:
love the green leds on that fluffy fuzz.. :icon_wink:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5760/21006906183_d708996a94_c.jpg)
Had to rush this one, and first etch in a long time, but I'm happy with it. This is a custom Scotch Bonnet (filtered fuzz) for a friend in Bulgaria. Knob lights up red. The next one is gonna have a red pepper with a green stem and 3 red knobs with a light up green knob. Anyway, the large writing means "The Hot Pepper", the smaller writing is Bulgarian for all the things you write on a pedal: input, volume, etc.
Wow, this is beautiful work. I'm just getting into building pedals, I can't get wrapped up in this now too! Out of curiosity (and tell me if I'm out of line), but would anyone in the US be willing to make a few boxes for me? I was going to order a few drilled/painted enclosures from PPP because I have no means to do any of that myself, but I'd much rather support some of you instead.
Quote from: garcho on September 22, 2015, 11:21:58 AM
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5760/21006906183_d708996a94_c.jpg)
Филтьр, Резонанс, Bulgarian is easy! :P
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 22, 2015, 02:58:30 AM
love the green leds on that fluffy fuzz.. :icon_wink:
Spot on, mate!
;)
How do you sand down an inverse etch without destroying the paint in recesses? I always get this ultra-modern shabby look.... I try to convince myself that I really like it but I'd rather choose.
Here's my newest pedal: A Timmy with an unlabelled switch for a feedback arrangement found here (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0znV3OdEOIE/T1neO5y5ZjI/AAAAAAAABDU/rvvxgPJnv_k/s320/Timmy+%253D+Feedback+C.JPG) and the internal dip switches externalised.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/TMY_Drive.jpg)
Quote from: lars-musik on September 25, 2015, 05:54:42 AM
How do you sand down an inverse etch without destroying the paint in recesses? I always get this ultra-modern shabby look.... I try to convince myself that I really like it but I'd rather choose.
Here's my newest pedal: A Timmy with an unlabelled switch for a feedback arrangement found here (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0znV3OdEOIE/T1neO5y5ZjI/AAAAAAAABDU/rvvxgPJnv_k/s320/Timmy+%253D+Feedback+C.JPG) and the internal dip switches externalised.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/TMY_Drive.jpg)
I actually DO love it! Maybe the switches are a bit too close to the stomp button, I usually dremel 'em down a bit...
For your question: draw a frame around the complete top that works as kind of a guide for the grinding paper...
Quote from: mfunky on September 25, 2015, 06:23:23 AM
Maybe the switches are a bit too close to the stomp button, I usually dremel 'em down a bit...
You shorten the lever with a Dremel? I have to think about that. Admittedly better than the toes!
Quote from: mfunky on September 25, 2015, 06:23:23 AM
For your question: draw a frame around the complete top that works as kind of a guide for the grinding paper...
Yes, I always try that. Somehow, even if I laboriously try to even out the surface, the toner transfer does never really stick to the very outer etch. If I move the frame inwards, I lack the space for the labels. And IF I manage to overcome all the above mentioned obstacles – the sand paper still touches the paint in the recesses. Now that I write it up I realise I HAVE TO like it the way it is.
Yes, dremel them off! Like this short: https://www.banzaimusic.com/Taiway-DPDT-On-On-Short-Lever.html (https://www.banzaimusic.com/Taiway-DPDT-On-On-Short-Lever.html)
lars-musik
Your pedals are awesome!
Quote from: lars-musik on September 25, 2015, 05:54:42 AM
How do you sand down an inverse etch without destroying the paint in recesses? I always get this ultra-modern shabby look.... I try to convince myself that I really like it but I'd rather choose.
I haven't etched an enclosure yet, but I've read this entire thread, and I've been doing woodworking, autobody, and various hobby crafts for several decades..
I think that key is using a hard sanding block or ultra-flat sanding surface, such as gluing a sheet of sandpaper down to a pane of glass and rubbing the face of the enclosure back and forth on that super-flat sandpaper surface.
Also, preparation is everything. Start by sanding the surface crazy-flat, even before you begin the transfer. Then for outer border, be sure to touch it up with fingernail polish or whatever you use, so that you've got a nice indexing plane to work from.
Finally, I think getting a deep enough etch is important, because I've seen some photos where people got some ghosting and complained of not burning the image long enough.
Again, I'm not an experienced etcher, but I'm studying up a lot on the subject before I take the big plunge.
QuoteHow do you sand down an inverse etch without destroying the paint in recesses?
you paint it after you sand
Right. Spray paint only the recessed areas [emoji6]
Quote from: garcho on September 25, 2015, 12:46:23 PM
you paint it after you sand
But that doesn't make sense if he's doing a reverse etch, right?
Garcho, loved the "M-Transistor" logo.
if you're sanding with a slat, unbending surface, then the raised metal should stop the lower painted parts from being scratched. try sanding against a pane of glass.
Quote from: darron on September 27, 2015, 02:51:32 AM
if you're sanding with a slat, unbending surface, then the raised metal should stop the lower painted parts from being scratched. try sanding against a pane of glass.
Yes, that's what I figure. It seems, the sanding paper - altough stiff and fixed on the workbench is still to flexible and penetrates the paint-filled grooves. I bought a large cutting disk, hopefully that'll do.
Quote from: lars-musik on September 28, 2015, 04:32:18 AM
Quote from: darron on September 27, 2015, 02:51:32 AM
if you're sanding with a slat, unbending surface, then the raised metal should stop the lower painted parts from being scratched. try sanding against a pane of glass.
Yes, that's what I figure. It seems, the sanding paper - altough stiff and fixed on the workbench is still to flexible and penetrates the paint-filled grooves. I bought a large cutting disk, hopefully that'll do.
i'm not an expert, but i've had years of playing around. i guess for me i have to try to apply as little pressure so that that the paper doesn't fill the gaps as you say. a really light pressure and let the paper do the work very slowly rather than forcing it.
it sucks, stuff like that sometimes is half science, and half art. and the thing that drives you the most is just trying not to screw it up! :)
here's a sandpaper trick - use the plank of plate glass, and use decent wet or dry sandpaperpaper. smear a dribble of water on the glass before you plonk the paper on the plank, and the various tensions provided by Mrs Nature will hold the paper very nicely flat and in one place.
in theory.
I use sanding sponges from ACE hardware (in the states). They're stiff enough to stay level and only sand what you intend to sand, and they are available in a variety of different grits. I also usually bake the paint layer before I sand, so the paint stays solid and doesn't just get rubbed away.
I'm sure sanding the top level with the hard sanding block before etching would give you better/cleaner sanding results after etching and painting.
dave
QuoteBut that doesn't make sense if he's doing a reverse etch, right?
my humor often doesn't come across textually...
If it is sanded flat properly, then when you sand the raised areas only those raised parts should be affected..
use a block...ALWAYS...and you should be ok.
quick question ...
i have to etch an aluminium 19'' rack face plate, (printing/finding a container should be fun ::))
now the face plate is black powder coated, front/back/edges,
i will sand off just the front to bare aluminium to etch but....
will the powder coat that remains on the sides/back be a good resist?...never tried it.
thoughts?...(using ferric) cheers guys,.
Not tried it either but while it's likely to be a good resist, such a big plate can flex easily. Does the finish crack under those circumstances?
hmmmm....yeah hadn't thought of that...
good idea, i'll strap a piece of wood to its back... 8)
heres the rack:
http://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_87407_19_1hegehaeuse.htm
19" Housing
1,2 mm steel, black powder coated
Front panel, 3 mm Aluminium, black powder coated
Flat-packed with screws
Depth: 250 mm
1 U
Rob I would think Powder Coat would be a great resist... MC
cheers mark, yeah i figured as such , but you never know.. :icon_cool:
i'll defo watch for any cracking just in case......
now to print the bugger in 2 parts and join, :icon_rolleyes:
then find a 20'' long thin container...hmmm.. :icon_rolleyes:
i have a big plastic toy trunk big enough i can butcher, i'll just have to cut n glue it to size...
never done a rack before, so it should be interesting...
Cardboard box lined with a thick poly bag just might save the toy trunk :icon_idea:
aha...yes...great idea, and a lot easier to make for sure.. :icon_idea:
i shall attack my cats food boxes.. :icon_twisted:
cheers kevin.. 8)
19in of deadastro etch. We expect something special :icon_biggrin:
No pressure................
oh man, i dread to think what its going to be..
its been a nightmare, i offered (like a proverbial mug) to build a 'clean' preamp with nice eq and integrated 1 watt amp
for low level practice/recording using a 12'' 8 ohm speaker for my son in law,
and its become an epic task, with more add-ons than a meccano set
with send/return/di out/ speaker out/ preamp out...which thankfully dear old samhay has helped me out with..cheers man. 8)
arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....my head.. :icon_rolleyes:
anyway the diy pcb board is designed/populated/ just waiting on the rack to do wiring etc..
cant wait to get it finished and out of my head...its been one of those ''i wish i kept quiet projects''
it does sound nice though..
btw, what is it with XLR sockets...no screws/bolts come with them it seems..?..
For an etch tray a piece of plastic eave trough with a couple end caps.
Quote from: stallik on October 05, 2015, 08:19:57 AM
19in of deadastro etch. We expect something special :icon_biggrin:
No pressure................
Thank god you clarified the 19in part with the word etch. We don't want a pic of that kind of special. lol.
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 05, 2015, 08:30:54 AM
btw, what is it with XLR sockets...no screws/bolts come with them it seems..?..
Over here we just use 4-40 nuts and screws. I stocked up on 3/8" Stainless 4-40 flat head screws and the nuts and washers for them awhile back. I use a #29 drill to make my screw holes in the chassis, and of course I have the Greenlee punches to knock out nice round holes for each connector.
Good luck!
Quote from: bloxstompboxes on October 05, 2015, 12:28:07 PM
Thank god you clarified the 19in part with the word etch. We don't want a pic of that kind of special. lol.
Just wanted to make sure you know that someone not only caught but appreciated that remark ;D
Quote from: bloxstompboxes on October 05, 2015, 12:28:07 PM
Thank god you clarified the 19in part with the word etch. We don't want a pic of that kind of special. lol.
That would've been one mean sausage :icon_eek:
... and no pressure d'Astro, but we expect to see the completed build on page 100 :icon_mrgreen:
You guys..... ;D
perrow, no chance....waiting on rack delivery, ...
then i,ll be waiting on my PITA son in law to get his act together and come up
with HIS final design.... :icon_rolleyes:
god help me... ;)
as for the XLR, i,ll pop rivet the mutha...
Quote from: davent on October 05, 2015, 12:01:44 PM
For an etch tray a piece of plastic eave trough with a couple end caps.
cheers dave, i would do this if i were doing a few racks for sure...good idea man.
i'll knock up a cardboard one for now though.... 8)
Quote from: hymenoptera on October 05, 2015, 07:03:15 PM
Over here we just use 4-40 nuts and screws. I stocked up on 3/8" Stainless 4-40 flat head screws and the nuts and washers for them awhile back. I use a #29 drill to make my screw holes in the chassis, and of course I have the Greenlee punches to knock out nice round holes for each connector.
Unfortunately, it seems from my research, UN[C|F] screws and (the majority of) wire-size drills are deep-strata archaeology everywhere but the USA :( Even Cisco supply M3 jack screws as an alternative with their serial cable sets.
In the UK, 4-40 should be available from RS or Farnell(Element14) at a premium, or a specialty fastener supplier. Depending on the XLR, drilling 3mm for M3x10 countersunk screws would be a suitable readily available option - or 6BA (similar diameter to 4-40) for UK archaeologists (strewth... even Maplin no longer keep BA sizes). :)
david
Needed some 2-56's hardware to mount seven pin tube sockets, the screws were easy to source and reasonable, best i could do for nuts was a 100 piece pack from Digikey, better then lifetime supply.
dave
@advent
You can get all kinds of arcane nuts and bolts from Brafasco or Fastenal in Canada. No need to go to internet suppliers. I got a set of screws for the adjusters on a Goya guitar from Fastenal. They had a minimum order of $30 but you can pad it with other things they supply - I got a big jug of hand cleaner that I still use.
Quotebtw, what is it with XLR sockets...no screws/bolts come with them it seems..?..
I don't get it, every XLR i've ever used has two screws kitty corner, what type are you using?
EDIT: just realized you mean screws that come with the socket when you purchase them, duh. easy to find in the States, not that you care...
those rack panels bend more easily than you'd think, careful! excited to see this someday D'Astro, happy to hear of more people messing with rack units.
Quote from: greaser_au on October 06, 2015, 05:46:59 AM
Unfortunately, it seems from my research, UN[C|F] screws and (the majority of) wire-size drills are deep-strata archaeology everywhere but the USA :( Even Cisco supply M3 jack screws as an alternative with their serial cable sets.
In the UK, 4-40 should be available from RS or Farnell(Element14) at a premium, or a specialty fastener supplier. Depending on the XLR, drilling 3mm for M3x10 countersunk screws would be a suitable readily available option - or 6BA (similar diameter to 4-40) for UK archaeologists (strewth... even Maplin no longer keep BA sizes). :)
david
It looks like M3 is the standard accepted size outside the US for panel-mount XLR connectors. Thanks for the reminder 8)
yay got the rack today, 8)
came in a massive card box to use as the etch tray.. 8) 8) 8)
I can confirm m3 is the right size. We use rivets in the studio.
@marcus, cool, i read that most use rivets with XLR's , i just got my rivet gun,
so what size rivets do you use?...i have 4 sizes,
2.4mm. 3.2mm. 4mm. 4.8mm.
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 09, 2015, 05:58:31 AM
@marcus, cool, i read that most use rivets with XLR's , i just got my rivet gun,
so what size rivets do you use?...i have 4 sizes,
2.4mm. 3.2mm. 4mm. 4.8mm.
With pop rivets it's easy. You want to stick the thick end into the holes you want to join to test fit them and make sure they fit snug. If they're too big you'll never get them in. Too small and they won't expand enough grab anything. Ideally they should just fit snug, very little wiggle room, maybe even require a little push to get them in if it's soft material like aluminum. Steel should have a hair of wiggle room. Do this and then you know you'll get a good joint.
Test fit your drill bit (by hand) in the XLR connector first so that you know that both holes, the existing ones in the connectors, and the new ones you'll be drilling, are going to be the the same size. Choosing the right drill bit for any given rivet size is important.
First time using a pop riveter I recommend snapping a few test rivets into something, some scrap sheet metal or whatever, to get the hang of it. Once you pop a few and get a feel for it you'll be good to go. It's a lot easier than you'd think. Drill thru both piece of scrap, insert a rivet skinny side all the way into the gun, then thick end all the way into the holes, and start squeezing. If one squeeze doesn't *pop* the shaft off, reseat it all the way down and squeeze again. I have the cheapie one with the extended head for XLRs and it takes two squeezes every time.
I re-etched my Clarinot enclosure since I wasn't satisfied with my first attempt:
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51997&g2_serialNumber=1)
^ love this, bravo!
rack etch done, xlr rivets done...fitted, sorted, ...pheww.. ::)
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sausages&client=opera&hs=xdx&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMI7Z6SycvRyAIVxusUCh1Kvgie&biw=1536&bih=777&dpr=1.25 (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sausages&client=opera&hs=xdx&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMI7Z6SycvRyAIVxusUCh1Kvgie&biw=1536&bih=777&dpr=1.25)
pics soon.. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 20, 2015, 01:39:08 PM
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sausages&client=opera&hs=xdx&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMI7Z6SycvRyAIVxusUCh1Kvgie&biw=1536&bih=777&dpr=1.25 (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sausages&client=opera&hs=xdx&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAWoVChMI7Z6SycvRyAIVxusUCh1Kvgie&biw=1536&bih=777&dpr=1.25)
You tease!
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 20, 2015, 01:39:08 PM
pics soon.. 8)
You tease! ;)
ok all done..
heres a rack preamp and integrated 1 watt amp i designed and built (with help from samhay)
active EQ, FX send/return, preamp+DI out, and speaker out, drives a 12'' speaker nicely. its been a long project, but i finally finished it. pheww...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_017.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_018.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_019.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_020.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_021.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_022.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_023.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_024.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_025.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WP_20151021_026.jpg)
Let me be the first to say, exemplary work as usual Rob 8)
cheers nathan,
man it was a lot of work, and time etc, but the results are worth it.
i wont be doing too many racks again for sure... 8)
because star wars
(http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/zillathegorilla/Pedal%20Builds/20151021_00043701_zps58fjn0lr.jpg) (http://s8.photobucket.com/user/zillathegorilla/media/Pedal%20Builds/20151021_00043701_zps58fjn0lr.jpg.html)
Got back on the etching after a brief stint to the dark side of decals!
It's a Klon, artwork is from the Deftones' album White Pony so I suppose you could call this the Silver Pony! I used the font 'Centaur' for extra nerd points ;)
Finished with a few coats of clear to keep that shine shiny! :)
Board is from Fuzzdog, made for a really clean build.
Cheers! :D
(https://41.media.tumblr.com/899254d8e0ff48a218a7b92e154e8cc8/tumblr_nx8cs8xlOL1s7epwwo3_500.jpg)
(https://40.media.tumblr.com/731fa163497709caf406eeaec24fc417/tumblr_nx8cs8xlOL1s7epwwo1_500.jpg)
(https://40.media.tumblr.com/8e45bba37e5556bb491b50d36f6de4a6/tumblr_nx8cs8xlOL1s7epwwo2_500.jpg)
so is that your mane overdrive?
Quote from: duck_arse on November 03, 2015, 09:11:50 AM
so is that your mane overdrive?
I see what you did there.
Quote from: duck_arse on November 03, 2015, 09:11:50 AM
so is that your mane overdrive?
Yeah, I needed to give my tone a little more horsepower
D'Astro, ain't it nice to leisurely fit things inside a rack unit, instead of going blind in the 1590A game? ;) (only half joking)
yeah that was a breeze fitting it....and using pcb mounts, made me feel a little hoarse though...:)
glad he went for the rack... ;)
coat on,.. :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 04, 2015, 02:46:29 AM
....and using pcb mounts
Yes, I find they're more, um, stable... :icon_rolleyes:
(Can I borrow that coat, Rob?)
its on its way to you....you can use it but not furlong...
need more coats...
(http://i.imgur.com/H2ANNEu.png)
you musta been knackered doing all that (t)rack-work, DA (the other).
hay! how'd we get saddled with this line of puns?
Maybe we should rein this one in and get back on the right tack before we get branded for bucking the trend for sensible discourse less it drifts off topic to farrier. We don't want to fall foal of the moderators or make the OP sulky. I muster been daft to answer this - it's a mare to think these up
I count 8. Nice etch by the way
enough of this horsehockey!
Quote from: garcho on November 04, 2015, 12:10:12 PM
enough of this horsehockey!
MORE HORSEHOCKEY!!!
(http://i.imgur.com/GeXBdaj.jpg)
Quote from: stallik on November 04, 2015, 12:09:57 PM
...... get back on the right tack .......
what? sheet, y'awl never said we was doing sailing puns.
I'll get me sou'wester.
Sea Horses?
Hopefully the right tack to get us back on track (although I really adore the hockey horses - thanks for that).
A King of Tone with a 9V/18V charge pumped switch and RG's great and simple polarity protection circuit. Layout and schematic unfortunately gone in my recent hard drive crash.
Some good advice that didn't vanish with my last digital year: Do not use clear nail polish to cover up your enclosure-to-be-etched if you don't dig that rotten look. I bought black nail polish especially for that purpose (although I could swear the cashier wouldn't have believed that for a second judging by his look) that I misplaced that day... So I used a clear one I found in the bathroom (don't tell) but as it is clear you'll never know where you've applied it and where you'd still have to.
Anyway, here it is.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/KingsDrive_small.jpg)
Nice. I'm growing to like this grungy look. I'm wondering about using anodising to prepare such a surface and hand colour/ spray the surface with rusty shades to make it look really nackered....
My Ram's Head Big Muff
(http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r628/vgtpedals/Big%20Muff/1b375408-a8da-40bb-9577-404fb979df43_zpsda5c43ba.jpg)
(http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r628/vgtpedals/Big%20Muff/29015b6e-6042-4923-83a3-0ef42a851312_zps7ef3aa38.jpg)
Burns Buzzaround. AC128 cans. Etched with NaOH and sprayed with black metallic paint. Really happy with this 'un!
(http://40.media.tumblr.com/65e57fc0941f99cc77a3c29c1bb0dad6/tumblr_nxswambq9C1s7epwwo3_540.jpg)
sweet etch n design man.. 8)
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 14, 2015, 05:50:35 AM
(http://40.media.tumblr.com/65e57fc0941f99cc77a3c29c1bb0dad6/tumblr_nxswambq9C1s7epwwo3_540.jpg)
I guess this settles the question of being able to get fine lines to turn out well. Superb job, love it!
Really nice. Worthy of a sausage :)
indeed, and maybe a side dish of chipolatas too... :D
Worth a coupla keez easy that's a beaut
Quote from: mcknib on November 15, 2015, 07:40:56 AM
Worth a coupla keez easy that's a beaut
(http://i.imgur.com/TBpfRHa.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 14, 2015, 05:50:35 AM
Burns Buzzaround. AC128 cans. Etched with NaOH and sprayed with black metallic paint. Really happy with this 'un!
Really well executed! What do you use to transfer?
Quote from: Cinder on November 15, 2015, 12:52:12 PM
Really well executed! What do you use to transfer?
Thanks! :) I use Polaroid photo paper, there's a link in my etching guide to the exact type if you're interested?
http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching)
Well I'll be Graham the very thing I used for my first pipette, drain cleaner, photo paper application great to be able to say thanks so cheers mate it's an excellent tutorial I've linked people in to it a few times
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 14, 2015, 05:50:35 AM
(http://40.media.tumblr.com/65e57fc0941f99cc77a3c29c1bb0dad6/tumblr_nxswambq9C1s7epwwo3_540.jpg)
Your builds are always among my favorites. Amazing job, as always. 8)
Quote from: mcknib on November 15, 2015, 04:42:26 PM
Well I'll be Graham the very thing I used for my first pipette, drain cleaner, photo paper application great to be able to say thanks so cheers mate it's an excellent tutorial I've linked people in to it a few times
Cool! Always glad to hear it's been useful! I've learned so much from forums it's great to be able to contribute in some way :)
Quote from: vigilante397 on November 16, 2015, 01:34:48 AM
Your builds are always among my favorites. Amazing job, as always. 8)
Thanks man! :)
First etch. I'd say it turned out so-so. The paint isn't nearly as dark as what I've seen on here from others. I just did one spray and waited about 4 hours until I sanded... unevenly, I guess because the top lost a bit too much paint. I ended up realizing i'd get better results not using a sanding block for the paint removal.
The etch could have been cleaner... I kind of have to rush through these projects, because I can't stand for more than about 5 minutes due to fractures in my spine, so I didn't do a very good prep job.
(http://i.imgur.com/zKtEbD9.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/CQcOFLF.jpg)
Quote from: atoff on November 16, 2015, 09:13:11 PM
First etch. I'd say it turned out so-so.
I'd say that's pretty damn good for a first go man, don't be too hard on yourself!
Looks to me like you could've done with a longer etch time if possible to get it a bit deeper, that would help with the sanding stage and using a flat block as the top layer of paint would be more easily removed.
Also I'd definitely recommend a couple of light coats of paint then waiting for it to cure overnight, if you sand too soon it lifts much more easily when sanding.
Finally, if you find the paint has dulled after sanding a couple of layers of clear coat will bring it right back and also improve the contrast.
Give it a go next time and see if that helps at all, as I say for a first etch what you've got there is really good!
Cheers,
Graham
believe me thats really cool for a first etch.., nice...you shouldve seen my first one ...maybe not :)
i use matt black , itscdry in 30 minutes and can be sanded with soapy warm water...im not a fan of gloss
black...nasty, and when its sanded you may as well have used matt anyway...
just my 2p... :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 17, 2015, 03:47:27 AM
i use matt black , itscdry in 30 minutes and can be sanded with soapy warm water...im not a fan of gloss
I probably should've mentioned that as well, I also use matte black (engine paint) when doing black unless it's metallic etc.
i use poundland matt black.. ;D. cheap as... and pretty good stuff really... 8)
Battery-powered Zendrive. Still searching for buttons for 6.35 mm shaft with set screw with a max outside diameter of 12 mm, preferred less... any recommendations?
(http://s17.postimg.org/pe53z2zrj/image005.jpg)
(http://s17.postimg.org/gmy34tggf/image006.jpg)
Quote from: mfunky on November 17, 2015, 05:36:10 AM
(http://s17.postimg.org/pe53z2zrj/image005.jpg)
Just saw this in the 1590A thread and was hoping I would see it here as well. Really excellent build all around. 8)
Yeah, it's a double post... actually a triple post, because I started a mini-thread with 1590a build with battery. But actually, there are obviously not many people who share my passion for this approach :) :) :)
the 'squeeze drive'' you 1590a guys... :icon_eek: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
You might consider wrapping the shaft with a little masking tape, then some black shrink tubing over it. Worked for me:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Small%20Gus/DSCN2948_zpskquvi2vk.jpg)
I hope the battery case is not conductive on that Zendrive:
(http://s17.postimg.org/pe53z2zrj/image005.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 17, 2015, 03:14:35 AM
Quote from: atoff on November 16, 2015, 09:13:11 PM
First etch. I'd say it turned out so-so.
I'd say that's pretty damn good for a first go man, don't be too hard on yourself!
Looks to me like you could've done with a longer etch time if possible to get it a bit deeper, that would help with the sanding stage and using a flat block as the top layer of paint would be more easily removed.
Also I'd definitely recommend a couple of light coats of paint then waiting for it to cure overnight, if you sand too soon it lifts much more easily when sanding.
Finally, if you find the paint has dulled after sanding a couple of layers of clear coat will bring it right back and also improve the contrast.
Give it a go next time and see if that helps at all, as I say for a first etch what you've got there is really good!
Cheers,
Graham
Thanks very much. You're definitely right, I needed to etch longer. What happened was that I used nail polish to cover a few parts on the side the I didn't want etched, and after a while the NaOH was eating away the nail polish, so I stopped early.
But I've learned a few things from this go, so I think the next one will be much better.
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 17, 2015, 03:47:27 AM
believe me thats really cool for a first etch.., nice...you shouldve seen my first one ...maybe not :)
i use matt black , itscdry in 30 minutes and can be sanded with soapy warm water...im not a fan of gloss
black...nasty, and when its sanded you may as well have used matt anyway...
just my 2p... :icon_wink:
Thanks! Yeah, I'm not a fan of glossy black either. I used some decent matte black that I had around. Pretty sure it's so dull because it needed a deeper etch, as Hexjibber said.
What I'm going to try next is to paint black, sand, then use alcohol inks. See if that makes it more interesting... hopefully it won't obscure the etch..
Quote from: amptramp on November 17, 2015, 07:04:23 PM
I hope the battery case is not conductive on that Zendrive:
(http://s17.postimg.org/pe53z2zrj/image005.jpg)
No, I put electric tape in the battery. But thinking of it, it would make a nice ground plane [emoji6]
^ strange, how we love cramming tiny things into small enclosures, unless of course, those tiny things are SMT...
i like the calligraphy and comic book stuff, well suited to the dichotomous art of etching
Quote from: garcho on November 18, 2015, 03:40:26 PM
^ strange, how we love cramming tiny things into small enclosures, unless of course, those tiny things are SMT...
i like the calligraphy and comic book stuff, well suited to the dichotomous art of etching
Yes, it is strange. No, I don't care [emoji6]
Quote from: Cozybuilder on November 17, 2015, 06:10:58 PM
You might consider wrapping the shaft with a little masking tape, then some black shrink tubing over it. Worked for me:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Small%20Gus/DSCN2948_zpskquvi2vk.jpg)
I saw that build before, great stuff. Lets start an upcycling-thread! The shrink-tube idea is cool... I think about that!
Okay, here's my second go. I'm happier with this one. I'm not sure I'm going to paint this one black, because there are really fine lines that I don't want to sand away. I do want to go over it with some alcohol inks. Still have to order those, so I have to hurry up and decide on colors. Probably going to go for a purply jumble.
(http://i.imgur.com/3x10pfN.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/KeMjrM5.jpg)
Very, very nice!
Very cool indeed, you've nailed it! Sweet design as well!
Agreed, very cool compressor and etch.
Thanks very much guys. Here it is pretty much finished. I should mention, this is the first pedal I've built. It's a Ross/Dyna clone. Picked up the PCB from Aion, as well as a Big Muff Pi and Klon. I'm also picking parts for a LeVache (Madbean), for which I'll etch the PCB myself, and a Tremulus Lune (not sure where I'll be picking up the pcb for that yet). I think I'll soon have gained an addiction. My back will hate me.
I still have to grind away the inside of the knobs a bit so they'd fit better. They're some cheapies and are a bit too tight, so they don't go down all the way.
(http://i.imgur.com/owVKfBH.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/sCoLZ8V.jpg)
Quote from: atoff on November 20, 2015, 10:52:46 PM
I still have to grind away the inside of the knobs a bit so they'd fit better. They're some cheapies and are a bit too tight, so they don't go down all the way.
i use some that are similar and find the same problem. it's because i use pots with round shafts (from small bear) and not the standard "D" shaft.
so the trick is that i back the grub screw out a bit and get a file and very quickly take the burrs off from where they drilled out the brass for the grub screw. it only takes 5 seconds and then there's no problem. otherwise they are a headache to get back off if i force them down too.
Quote from: darron on November 20, 2015, 11:30:28 PM
Quote from: atoff on November 20, 2015, 10:52:46 PM
I still have to grind away the inside of the knobs a bit so they'd fit better. They're some cheapies and are a bit too tight, so they don't go down all the way.
i use some that are similar and find the same problem. it's because i use pots with round shafts (from small bear) and not the standard "D" shaft.
so the trick is that i back the grub screw out a bit and get a file and very quickly take the burrs off from where they drilled out the brass for the grub screw. it only takes 5 seconds and then there's no problem. otherwise they are a headache to get back off if i force them down too.
Yeah, they're on there super tight right now! I'm afraid I'm going to break the pots removing them. Thanks for the tip though... I use the same pots with the smooth shafts.
looks great... 8)
My latest, it's a Catalinbread SFT on Fuzzdog Ampegulator board. Runs at 18v thanks to onboard charge pump, this circuit really comes into it's own at 18v for my money!
First go at trying a two tone paint job, pretty happy with the results if I do say so myself! :)
(http://36.media.tumblr.com/ec233b232412350e7625ef8a16479066/tumblr_ny5u7nBMeh1s7epwwo1_540.jpg)
(http://40.media.tumblr.com/f199a754cc031bd32f6eae64b2975558/tumblr_ny5u7nBMeh1s7epwwo3_540.jpg)
Cheers!
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 21, 2015, 05:46:16 AM
(http://40.media.tumblr.com/f199a754cc031bd32f6eae64b2975558/tumblr_ny5u7nBMeh1s7epwwo3_540.jpg)
That looks great! What kind of colour is that? How did you sand it down (still the 1200 grit and sanding block from the link in your signature)?
Quote from: Hexjibber on November 21, 2015, 05:46:16 AM
(http://40.media.tumblr.com/f199a754cc031bd32f6eae64b2975558/tumblr_ny5u7nBMeh1s7epwwo3_540.jpg)
Whoa :icon_eek: THAT. IS. BRILLIANT.
Love it Graham! Really inspiring!
Have got to get my work bench up again.
awesome topic, I really enjoy watching it.
here are some of pedals I've etched:
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/Motherslugs-pedals/bass.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/jcm800.jpg)
(http://www.guitarpcb.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=198615881)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/20150809_211625.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/timmy.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/chorus.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/echotapperetched.jpg)
Motherslug
Welcome to the forum. Nice etches!
Quote from: peterg on November 22, 2015, 05:52:55 PM
Motherslug
Welcome to the forum. Nice etches!
What he said! :) Great work man, love the designs!
Great etches Motherslug! Love the echotapper.
I just kinda lurk on this forum from time to time, but never noticed this thread before!!! So much awesome in this thread! I LOVE this one, I need to try yellow in the future!
Quote from: lars-musik on September 25, 2015, 05:54:42 AM
Here's my newest pedal: A Timmy with an unlabelled switch for a feedback arrangement found here (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0znV3OdEOIE/T1neO5y5ZjI/AAAAAAAABDU/rvvxgPJnv_k/s320/Timmy+%253D+Feedback+C.JPG) and the internal dip switches externalised.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/TMY_Drive.jpg)
Here are a few of my etches, some of my favorites:
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_4290_zpsusd0jfvf.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_4290_zpsusd0jfvf.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_4266_zpsbcuuqqci.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_4266_zpsbcuuqqci.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_3548_zpsjr1ffxwx.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_3548_zpsjr1ffxwx.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/EF3_zpsand4avk5.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/EF3_zpsand4avk5.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/image1%201_zpssgppcg8i.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/image1%201_zpssgppcg8i.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/Foxx5_zpswtjpdhl9.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/Foxx5_zpswtjpdhl9.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/photo%201%2038_zpsyw3p3hog.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/photo%201%2038_zpsyw3p3hog.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/photo%204%209_zpsrqbllzuf.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/photo%204%209_zpsrqbllzuf.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/photo%202%2018_zpshjzn5elh.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/photo%202%2018_zpshjzn5elh.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/photo%203%203_zpsfjcvga85.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/photo%203%203_zpsfjcvga85.jpg.html)
Dminner, pretty mind boggling to see a bunch of them together in one place, all at once...
Great designs, super execution!
dave
Quote from: dminner on December 04, 2015, 01:26:20 PM
Here are a few of my etches, some of my favorites:
:icon_eek: Your favorites just became my favorites. Really excellent stuff, thanks for posting!
bravo! i love seeing variations on a theme
the standard of "first-post pedals" has shot through the roof, lately, in most threads.
Dminner - great etches! What are the circuits?
You beat me to it DA the standard just keeps getting higher and higher
I'd better work on my technique before I post anything else! think I'll maybe ditch the felt tips
Some of these beasts are way better than production pedals the details are fantastic
Dminner your work is stunning give us some details please of how you get the different colours looking so great very very original even down to your LED selection, how long does it take you to get them looking so good?
I'm assuming those square LED's on the Ugly Arcadian are actually round underneath the lens? I've been trying to find jewel lens LED's small enough for pedals where do you get yours?
Thanks guys.
I can really only take full credit for the enclosure etching/design work/led/knob combos. All the builds were done in collaboration. I am not much of an electronics guy...I have only built one full pedal by myself...While the pedal fired up right away I found the whole electronics experience really stressful and too much like work and not fun haha. I realized I just prefer the art component to pedal building so I lurk around this forum and others to find circuits that I want built and then find electronics people to collaborate with (i.e., I build two enclosures, they load them both, and they send me one back).
This is the only one I have actually built solo:
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/photo%201%2027_zps1mtuberw.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/photo%201%2027_zps1mtuberw.jpg.html)
To answer your questions,
peterg: The circuits on the ones in the pics are as follows:
-the blue and black will house echo benders
-the "plague" is a boost>rat>musket. AWESOME
-the red and black "wave controllers" are for voodoo vibe circuits
-the baby blue and black is a DBA evil filter clone and the black and splatter pink are for fredrik's guitar synth circuit
-the army green and black "Faultline activators" are megalith clones
-the "black hole" is a foxx tone machine
-the "robotic transmitter" is a DBA robot clone
-the "interstellar reverberator" is a grind customs tenebrion
-the "ugly arcadian" is an arcadiator into a grind customs machette
-and the "Dirt Controllers" are a bluesbreaker into a supro
I have worked with people to build lots more but didnt want to bombard the etch thread so I just posted pics of a few new ones and some old favorites :)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/photo%201%2026_zpsfukvw2lq.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/photo%201%2026_zpsfukvw2lq.jpg.html)
mcknib:
-yeah the squares are fresnals from mouser. 5mm leds clip inside.
-As far as the two colors...it is just tedious. I try to do deeper etches with those. I mask the more normal shapes and fill in the more abstract shapes by hand.
Dminner, we're not gawking at the electronics inside, just the beautiful etchings. Screw my education, my new priority in life is to get good enough at building to collaborate with you on something. I really don't know which one I like the most, maybe the interstellar, but I do like the signal booster too.
QuoteAll the builds were done in collaboration.
wish more of this happened around here, bravo!
Quote from: garcho on December 05, 2015, 12:28:09 PM
QuoteAll the builds were done in collaboration.
wish more of this happened around here, bravo!
When I started doing them i tried here too, but havent got a lot of takers here...mostly madbeaners and people from the I love fuzz forum.
Quote from: dbp512 on December 05, 2015, 10:22:22 AM
Dminner, we're not gawking at the electronics inside, just the beautiful etchings. Screw my education, my new priority in life is to get good enough at building to collaborate with you on something. I really don't know which one I like the most, maybe the interstellar, but I do like the signal booster too.
Hey man, if you want a signal booster that can be arranged ;) Because I kinda want a second one for another rig I have, message me if interested.
dminner I loved so much your setup! Niiice! :icon_twisted:
@ dminner, some amazing designs and etches, love it!
here's my latest etch:
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/compressor.jpg)
Mad Professor Snow White
(http://i66.tinypic.com/x2mmc0.jpg)
Super! My etches are never that deep... How did you do that?
Quote from: mfunky on December 08, 2015, 02:44:24 PM
Super! My etches are never that deep... How did you do that?
Typical Fe3Cl2 etching. And some practice. A lot of practice.
That looks really neat!
Quote from: edy_wheazel on December 08, 2015, 03:19:29 PM
Typical Fe3Cl2 etching. And some practice. A lot of practice.
But besides etchant and practice: What kind of mask was this? Do you happen to know temperature and concentration of the ferric chloride?
great designs dminner , really cool...
p.s was i meant to send you switch measurements for the tremshifter?...
cant remember if it was you!.
I am wondering - is it possible to achieve such deep etches with NaOH as well? If yes, how (Concentration, Time, Agitation) ? I always follow these instructions: http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching), but my etches always end up more or less flat after painting (even though I only use one layer of black spray paint). Higher concentration? Increase time? Or number of passes?
Let me know - Main reason for not using FE3CL is, that I dont etch PCBs, and dont want more than necessary chemicals at home ...
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 09, 2015, 03:49:26 AM
great designs dminner , really cool...
p.s was i meant to send you switch measurements for the tremshifter?...
cant remember if it was you!.
Thanks, and YES that was me! The tremshifter design is pretty bonkers :) I think you will dig it.
I previously made a pair of enclosures for your abductor delay too...but the abductor delays are MIA at the moment...not sure what there status is....
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/photo%201%2016_zpsmfikw3or.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/photo%201%2016_zpsmfikw3or.jpg.html)
Quote from: mfunky on December 09, 2015, 03:51:31 AM
I am wondering - is it possible to achieve such deep etches with NaOH as well? If yes, how (Concentration, Time, Agitation) ? I always follow these instructions: http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching), but my etches always end up more or less flat after painting (even though I only use one layer of black spray paint). Higher concentration? Increase time? Or number of passes?
Let me know - Main reason for not using FE3CL is, that I dont etch PCBs, and dont want more than necessary chemicals at home ...
You absolutely can! I do all my etching with NaOH and go deep to allow for 2 color designs. I use roughly 40% solution, minimal agitation, and etch for 45min-1hr.
ok, ill sort that out for you....excellent design .. 8)
Quote from: lars-musik on December 08, 2015, 04:03:41 PM
But besides etchant and practice: What kind of mask was this? Do you happen to know temperature and concentration of the ferric chloride?
1 - printe the design on photo paper with a laser printer.
2 - clean the enclosure until it shines, and after that don't touch it with your fingers.
3 - iron the cr*ap out of it. You can see through the paper how the toner transfers to the enclosure.
4 - cover the big black areas with adhesive paper, this way you really gonna have a clean etching.
5 - etch it. I don't know the concentration, "use second hand" and watch the orange bubbles. The bubbles should be slow and lazy at the room temperature. Etch it for 2.5-3 minutes and then wash it, check the depth and the integrity of the toner. Etch it again for 2-3 minutes. It's not an exact formula and it depends on how large is the etching area.
Have fun and good luck! Don't "etch" your clothes/furniture/whatever, this way you avoid troubles with the wife/girlfriend.
Just finished up etched enclosures for these MASSIVE 1550g monsters!
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_4551_zps2skbb84p.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_4551_zps2skbb84p.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_4549_zps8kpqqbxz.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_4549_zps8kpqqbxz.jpg.html)
Quote from: edy_wheazel on December 09, 2015, 04:15:23 PM
Don't "etch" your clothes/furniture/whatever, this way you avoid troubles with the wife/girlfriend.
+1000
Though as a side note me being messy with etching was a big reason why my wife let me buy a CNC machine ;D
dminner i continue admiring your work more and more :icon_eek:
So, I'm not sure what's going on, but my etches are becoming really messy. Using caustic soda, it's now taking a really long time, and it eats through the toner. My first two were just fine, and I haven't changed my process. But the last two were a mess.
I had to sand this a lot to clean it up to at least presentable... which turned out to look pretty cool.
(http://i.imgur.com/iFneSXI.jpg)
Quote from: vigilante397 on December 10, 2015, 12:43:25 PM
Though as a side note me being messy with etching was a big reason why my wife let me buy a CNC machine ;D
That's a bit cheeky and very, very clever Nathan. Well-trodden "bloke" strategy. :icon_biggrin: Let's just hope no wives or girlfriends are reading this, or else our secret is out...
This is just a test box, but I decided to have fun with it...
(http://jnoeding.com/bk_bx/bk_bx_1.jpg)
(http://jnoeding.com/bk_bx/bk_bx_2.jpg)
(http://jnoeding.com/bk_bx/bk_bx_3.jpg)
Quote from: hylandren on December 12, 2015, 08:52:21 AM
This is just a test box, but I decided to have fun with it...
(http://jnoeding.com/bk_bx/bk_bx_1.jpg)
Wow that looks awesome man! Very clean indeed and I love the brushed aluminium look, how was that done?
Wow! That is a beautiful, super clean etch!
dminner, atoff and hylandren - your etches are fantastic!
Yes, that breakout box is superb!
I just finished this dual overdrive
A Kingslayer (Klonish) into a Game of Tones (KOT).
Simple Coen Bros etch. Makes some great noises.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/Dual%20Drive_zpsfw4njrxg.jpg)
I had to stack the boards.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z30/codtone/guts_zpsqsfjfh9o.jpg)
Triple wreck
(http://i65.tinypic.com/hwzwgm.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/33pd93k.jpg)
Another two tone jobbie, this one is a Dunlop Q-Zone. Did my own board as couldn't find an existing PCB and was curious about this one.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/13/74d75d3208ccb78218f1b089121dfd25.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/13/3c518b037f9683600b7eb1ac792edbb3.jpg)
Quote from: Hexjibber on December 13, 2015, 04:41:45 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/13/74d75d3208ccb78218f1b089121dfd25.jpg)
(http://jnoeding.com/holy_cow.jpg)
Wow, what a design! WHAT AN ETCH!!
Seriously, the way you get such clean and unbroken thin lines like that on a reverse etch is incredible.
Earlier in my etching, I tried a few things with thin lines like that and it was a disaster. I've changed my methods and improved since then, but still don't have the guts to even try really thin lined stuff like that. That is a really inspiring etch!
Quote from: hylandren on December 14, 2015, 07:09:01 AM
Wow, what a design! WHAT AN ETCH!!
Seriously, the way you get such clean and unbroken thin lines like that on a reverse etch is incredible.
Earlier in my etching, I tried a few things with thin lines like that and it was a disaster. I've changed my methods and improved since then, but still don't have the guts to even try really thin lined stuff like that. That is a really inspiring etch!
Thanks a lot man! :)
The breakout box that you posted earlier was fantastic, so clean! I'd say give the reverse etch a go and just keep testing the limits each time, you'll be there before you know it! :)
Quote from: Hexjibber on December 14, 2015, 10:25:44 AM
I'd say give the reverse etch a go and just keep testing the limits each time, you'll be there before you know it! :)
Oh, I love doing reverse etches, but I think I will stick to big wide bold text and graphics! lol
You'd asked about the brushing on the Breakout Box....
Its just plain old 80 grit sand paper. But one thing I do is put a sheet of it down (rough side up) on the corner of my bench. Then I lay a 2X4 along one edge of the bench, OVER one end of the paper, and clamp both the paper and 2X4 to the bench.
Then I put the enclosure up against the 2X4, and drag the box along the paper. The 2X4 acts as a guide, and makes sure all the brush marks are running exactly the same. I occasionally unclamp, rotate the paper, and re-clamp, as needed. Often I will use up several sheets of paper on one enclosure. Oh, and I ALWAYS do the corners first. Just seems to work better that way for me.
Hey everybody -- I just finished this pedal - the second incarnation of a BMP variation. My first attempt was in this thread, reply #1861.
So, here's the finished product. A vast improvement, though still not perfect. Anyway, will keep refining my skills! Good news is, it sounds huge! Really deep, fat bass, and singing sustain. Pretty happy with it. This one is dad's Christmas present this year.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/IMG_3536.JPG)
Quote from: statzern on December 17, 2015, 07:05:46 PMHey everybody -- I just finished this pedal - .....A vast improvement,...
It looks superb! And yeah, it takes a bit to find "your" preferred etching method, the one that works best for you, but it's great you did.
Quote from: statzern on December 17, 2015, 07:05:46 PMGood news is, it sounds huge! Really deep, fat bass, and singing sustain. Pretty happy with it.
Even better news!
Quote from: statzern on December 17, 2015, 07:05:46 PMThis one is dad's Christmas present this year.
The best news yet! Its going to mean a lot to him that you made it for him.
Tremshifter enclosures:
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_4767_zps5qjcuwhm.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_4767_zps5qjcuwhm.jpg.html)
^gorgeous!!!
Well, the etch is terrible, but the colors came out real nice I think. I didn't see the little hairs / fibers all over before I sealed it, so I ruined it a bit in that regard, and pulled one piece of hair off after sealing, so it pulled away the color and left a dash of aluminum showing. :-\
(http://i.imgur.com/5N5bCPC.jpg)
Sorry ATOF, but I couldn't disagree more!
I think a pristine etch with perfectly sharp edges would look out of place with that cool ink finish!
You've got the makings of a GREAT looking pedal there,. Can't want to see it when its finished.
I have got to try the ink process at some point. Are they compatible with Envirotex?
How is that done??? Looks stunning!
Quote from: hylandren on December 23, 2015, 09:21:44 AM
Sorry ATOF, but I couldn't disagree more!
I think a pristine etch with perfectly sharp edges would look out of place with that cool ink finish!
You've got the makings of a GREAT looking pedal there,. Can't want to see it when its finished.
I have got to try the ink process at some point. Are they compatible with Envirotex?
Thanks. Yeah, I don't mind the messiness of this etch. It fits.
Not sure about the Envirotex. It would probably be a good idea to just spray a light coat of enamel or varnish on first. It seems like a lot of varnishes / sealers cause the inks to bleed or run. I used VHT Clear Gloss Engine Enamel. It's actually curing in an oven right now. The end result is probably not as nice as it would be with the Envirotex, but no issues with it bleeding or messing up the ink.
Quote from: mfunky on December 23, 2015, 10:16:40 AM
How is that done??? Looks stunning!
Thanks very much. It's alcohol ink daubed with a felt pad. Honeycomb and Wild Plum for this one. The inks bleed into each other, so they make those awesome diseased or flowery looking patterns (depending on your perspective ;) )
Too cool, its like a spalted effect
Quote from: atoff on December 23, 2015, 11:38:53 AM
The inks bleed into each other, so they make those awesome diseased or flowery looking patterns (depending on your perspective ;) )
it's the crystal structure of "toan", shown under polarised light.
[I can't see where the etched is.]
Quote from: duck_arse on December 24, 2015, 08:12:05 AM
Quote from: atoff on December 23, 2015, 11:38:53 AM
The inks bleed into each other, so they make those awesome diseased or flowery looking patterns (depending on your perspective ;) )
it's the crystal structure of "toan", shown under polarised light. [I can't see where the etched is.]
(http://confessingbaptist.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/science-300x158.jpg)
Not sure if you're being serious about the etch, but it's the les lius logo / stamp. Granted, it's not an epic etch. Might have been better in the pictures thread. ;)
Currently annoyed because the supposedly super strong sealer I used isn't doing it's job. May have to go over it with some mod podge or something.
My latest, tried a combo of colour fade painting and masking for something a bit different, worked out better than I imagined! :)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/26/70593cae6476c36e516e6949e9ef3ae5.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/26/08bb1216af50442af4cd061a59440225.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/26/56aee4da64c2b992644b7fbda1416ac2.jpg)
Hope you all had a good Christmas! :)
Quote from: atoff on December 22, 2015, 06:36:00 PM
Well, the etch is terrible, but the colors came out real nice I think.
My opinion about the colours & patterns: JUST GORGEOUS!
Seriously, you did good! It's a true eye candy.
What I just could not find is where the etch is...
Quote from: Hexjibber on December 26, 2015, 12:57:34 PM
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/26/70593cae6476c36e516e6949e9ef3ae5.jpg)
Holy hell Hexjibber, you just keep outdoing yourself. You keep doing more and more amazing things and I just keep wondering what the next one will look like!
you go all stepping on snake's face, Hex, there's going to be big trouble.
Awesome job Graham!
Holy Moly, what a design!
Snake Plisskin, for the WIN!
Cheers guys! :)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/26/70593cae6476c36e516e6949e9ef3ae5.jpg)
:icon_eek:
Hold it!...Do you hear that sound?
That's the sound of me throwing my etching gear in the trash can!
Another one from me, been catching up on a backlog! ;)
This one is a BE Musket clone, probably my favourite Big Muff version!
More colour fade spirally jazz! ;)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/29/76659bf1951d652e1362ac4532d2350e.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/29/2f13f16177a4ef215335710df8bcbbe8.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/29/680cab2e58a3ac69b0c6a909006f0d7d.jpg)
Can you - please - stop it now? Making all of us look bad, I mean!!!
[emoji6]
Those are glued on etched aluminum faceplates, right?
Quote from: Hexjibber on December 29, 2015, 03:19:40 PM
Another one from me, been catching up on a backlog! ;)
This one is a BE Musket clone, probably my favourite Big Muff version!
More colour fade spirally jazz! ;)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/29/76659bf1951d652e1362ac4532d2350e.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/29/2f13f16177a4ef215335710df8bcbbe8.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/29/680cab2e58a3ac69b0c6a909006f0d7d.jpg)
Quote from: Beo on December 29, 2015, 04:40:30 PM
Those are glued on etched aluminum faceplates, right?
Nope just regular ol' box etching, or reverse etching in this case! :)
Quote from: Hexjibber on December 29, 2015, 03:19:40 PM
More colour fade spirally jazz! ;)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/29/2f13f16177a4ef215335710df8bcbbe8.jpg)
can't be jazz - it makes too much sense.
(http://s2.postimg.org/vqjvdc1ah/IMG_4298.jpg)
(http://s2.postimg.org/pbkugnukp/IMG_4299.jpg)
I had bad luck with the enclosure - it had a "belly", so the toner did not stick in the middle of the enclosure (I realized before etching and covered that area with tape). Anyway, first time I did a (partly) reverse etch. In addition to that, one hole broke (bottom left). This one will be treated hard, so I use it as it is.
The box is a tillman booster, ROG Condor Cab Sim, a ROG ruby amp, a MXR MicroAmp, and a mixer all in one. I will use it to practice with headphones, blend in backing tracks, slave-power other effects, blend two cell phones for small parties, record with cab sim, drive a 1x12" cabinet (actually gets quite loud!) etc. It works with a battery as well. The footswitch can shut off one channel (e.g. if I blend in a metronome and want to mute it temporarily).
mfunky - that is a cool box. Where is the board from?
Quote from: peterg on February 05, 2016, 09:07:09 AM
mfunky - that is a cool box. Where is the board from?
I designed the board based on the schematics mentioned above. I still have some left, send me a PM, if you are interested.
Build report: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=21629.new;topicseen#new
Damn it Hex!
My vacation setup :-)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160207/79384eebc24da18638405f4a9c89b2d6.jpg)
Roland Space Echo inspired enclosures for Lovetone Doppelganger circuits:
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6123_zpshmqim1ov.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6123_zpshmqim1ov.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6120_zpsx8r8rsgd.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6120_zpsx8r8rsgd.jpg.html)
I also recently made these delay enclosures:
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6125_zpst13vpiyb.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6125_zpst13vpiyb.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6126_zpsxnbpao4z.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6126_zpsxnbpao4z.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6127_zpsbqr3uog8.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6127_zpsbqr3uog8.jpg.html)
Colour me impressed. Nice job
Quote from: dminner on February 08, 2016, 09:54:42 AM
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6120_zpsx8r8rsgd.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6120_zpsx8r8rsgd.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6125_zpst13vpiyb.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6125_zpst13vpiyb.jpg.html)
I just peed a little.
Excellent as always man! Love the delay one especially
nice, nailed that roland space colour too... 8)
Might be said a thousand times before . Etching with ferri chloride produces/releases chlorid gasses.
Wear a mask or end like WW1trench war soldiers.
And
Wuhuuuu , you're doing heavy stuff. (I'm not showing anything here,for sure)
Dminner killer delay, great job!!
my builds of the past 3 months:
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/chorus-1.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/20160130_191142.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/bassdrive.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/fuzzface%20copy.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/thatjam-1.jpg)
(http://memberfiles.freewebs.com/27/85/130638527/photos/undefined/reverb.jpg)
Quote from: dminner on February 08, 2016, 09:54:42 AM
Roland Space Echo inspired enclosures for Lovetone Doppelganger circuits:
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6123_zpshmqim1ov.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6123_zpshmqim1ov.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6120_zpsx8r8rsgd.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6120_zpsx8r8rsgd.jpg.html)
I also recently made these delay enclosures:
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6125_zpst13vpiyb.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6125_zpst13vpiyb.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6126_zpsxnbpao4z.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6126_zpsxnbpao4z.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6127_zpsbqr3uog8.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6127_zpsbqr3uog8.jpg.html)
just WOW! amazing designs.
where did you get the knobs you used for the space time transporter?
Motherslug - those are fantastic looking etches.
Quote from: Motherslug on February 13, 2016, 05:21:38 PM
just WOW! amazing designs.
where did you get the knobs you used for the space time transporter?
Thanks man. I LOVE that arcadiator enclosure of yours! I got those knobs from Newark
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6554_zpsb5ott0cm.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6554_zpsb5ott0cm.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6553_zpsvogfsr8r.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6553_zpsvogfsr8r.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6531_zpssjqo3xly.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6531_zpssjqo3xly.jpg.html)
Quote from: dminner on February 26, 2016, 11:35:12 AM
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/IMG_6531_zpssjqo3xly.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/IMG_6531_zpssjqo3xly.jpg.html)
Love the build, can I see a full shot of that guitar? ;D
Quote from: vigilante397 on February 26, 2016, 01:36:53 PM
Love the build, can I see a full shot of that guitar? ;D
Thanks! And sure, here you go:
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y370/dminner/image_1_zps5f9d4fee.jpeg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/dminner/media/image_1_zps5f9d4fee.jpeg.html)
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y370/dminner/4e7d281e-b84d-4837-91d1-834d6ff5249c_zpsffb71695.jpg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/dminner/media/4e7d281e-b84d-4837-91d1-834d6ff5249c_zpsffb71695.jpg.html)
(http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/y370/dminner/image_zps58e476d7.jpeg) (http://s1030.photobucket.com/user/dminner/media/image_zps58e476d7.jpeg.html)
My first reverse etch, turned out pretty nice. This one won't end up being an actual finished pedal (notice there's some spacing flaws on the design) and I can't actually fit everything in the enclosure as of now.. Bummer!
It's a tube screamer (the GGG layout) with the fat mod and diode switching. Will up the size to a 125b and see if that goes.
With some of the recent posts, I'm a little embarrassed to even stick this up here - the bar is definitely high for designs and technique! I finally have my toner transfer down to pretty much 100% success rate, even with very fine details. I'm contemplating a tutorial video, not that there aren't enough out there already! But somehow I continued to struggle for quite some time now, and maybe I could save people some time and major headache!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Deer%20Driver%20Pedal/IMG_0121.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Deer%20Driver%20Pedal/IMG_0123.JPG)
Statzern
"turned out pretty nice" is a huge understatement. It's amazing!
Quote from: peterg on March 20, 2016, 09:16:49 PM
Statzern
"turned out pretty nice" is a huge understatement. It's amazing!
That's for sure!, In the second picture looks like a mother of pearl inlay rather then sanded metal.
Great design and etch!
dave
Quote from: statzern on March 20, 2016, 08:40:03 PM
My first reverse etch, turned out pretty nice. This one won't end up being an actual finished pedal (notice there's some spacing flaws on the design) and I can't actually fit everything in the enclosure as of now.. Bummer!
I will totally take it. Seriously. If you don't want it I'll buy it, I'm sure I could find something to stick in there.
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/WC1_zpsqyaeqm2v.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/WC1_zpsqyaeqm2v.jpg.html)
(http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll190/DanMinner/wc2_zpspuhpowqs.jpg) (http://s288.photobucket.com/user/DanMinner/media/wc2_zpspuhpowqs.jpg.html)
DMINNER - another great (and highly detailed) etch!
STATZERN - You're crazy, man! That is a good looking etch and WAY better than what my first one looked like! Maybe save it and do another TS at some point using Mad Bean's TS board. That one WILL fit in a 1590b.
incredible work y'all, the whole page, top to bottom. inspiring!
Quote from: Johnny Lemonhead on July 16, 2010, 02:16:08 PM
Quote from: studiostud on July 16, 2010, 01:53:42 AM
dude. those look stinkin clean, man. well done for your first ones! I'm going to try etching with my next pedal. Just getting tired of the hassle and cost of decals/adhesive sticker paper. What etchant did you use? Ferric Chloride or something else?
Thanks!
About the decals - I can definitely relate. As far as results go, while etching is a bit of a hassle by itself, it can lead to better results, IMO.
Yes, I used Ferric Chloride. Masking is extremely important. I used Press and Peel for the graphics, then packaging tape for the sides of the enclosure and nail polish for covering everything else.
One more thing to point out - don't buy a polished enclosure for etching: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=85151.0 I learned it the hard way...
Do you only use Ferric Cholride or have you used "Lye" or "Muratic Acid"? if so will they get the same results?
I have tried to Iron on the toner image from Glossy Photo paper using an HP laserjet 6P and could barely get the image to transfer to the enclosure. I had to buy the wife a new iron too since she caught me using it on my work bench.
Thanks,
Bobby
Quote from: Linac Guy on April 06, 2016, 04:55:09 PM
Do you only use Ferric Cholride or have you used "Lye" or "Muratic Acid"? if so will they get the same results?
I have tried to Iron on the toner image from Glossy Photo paper using an HP laserjet 6P and could barely get the image to transfer to the enclosure. I had to buy the wife a new iron too since she caught me using it on my work bench.
Well, at least you have a dedicated iron for etching now!
:D
You know how some people love single coil pickups, while others prefer humbuckers? Same is true with etching methods. What works perfectly for one guy, will be a disaster for someone else. Neither is right or wrong, just different.
I am a photographer, so I really wanted to etch with photo paper, because I have a lot of it around. I tried and tried, but I had a lot of the same problems you are having. PNP blue was even worse for me.
Now I'm getting consistently clean transfers with sharp edges and NO PITS, using the method below, combined with nail varnish. Best part is that the HP presentation paper Cody recommends costs a fraction of what photo paper does.
Maybe give it a try:
http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035 (http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160416/66f03dadd6715ed855d2d5762bfd26d5.jpg)
Heya, I am basically doing etching exclusively, I got polishing technique nailed but I can't always remove all the scratch marks from sandpaper. Any suggestions?
Lately local people started asking for prices, I am not sure if my pedals look "professional" enough for sale yet :icon_confused:
Anyways, my few builds:
(https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/10468228_10203203407581795_4888403263667832151_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12991014_10207943800568657_8679117899934301988_n.jpg?oh=de7d48afd94983235fb13d10ce180e69&oe=577BA318)
This booster is a bit unfortunate one, decided to put the toggle switch after the wiring was done, so I drilled from the inside, totally forgetting that my logo would be in the place haha, I like it tho, looks kinda funky.
Inside:
(https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/v/t1.0-9/12718395_10207943800328651_1812018781458019886_n.jpg?oh=e44ae718a28716b4b74286f2c7a21410&oe=57AFFB56)
Moving on to a special one, overdrive with a bunch of user-programmable presets like ones you find in multiefect pedals (side note, don't ask me for schematic, it was a year of development time with a friend of mine so I don't own full rights for it, hope you understand):
(https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/10634056_10207065964983316_6221326268085799110_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/t31.0-8/10296086_10207065966423352_6281570750231057452_o.jpg)
Some fuzz face with switchable transistors:
(https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/t31.0-8/856969_10207678498736277_1191739880273666889_o.jpg)
2in1 type of deal:
(https://scontent-vie1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t31.0-8/10623459_10203807934894600_5989123442822612734_o.jpg)
Regards, Mustard
Really excellent looking etches, especially like the memory drive. You could try a buffer with some buffing compound to get the sandpaper marks off for a nice polished finish.
Quote from: Mustard on April 20, 2016, 07:10:45 AM
Lately local people started asking for prices, I am not sure if my pedals look "professional" enough for sale yet :icon_confused:
Your builds look WAAAAYYYY more professional than mine did when I started selling :P
Quote from: vigilante397 on April 20, 2016, 11:44:34 AM
Really excellent looking etches, especially like the memory drive. You could try a buffer with some buffing compound to get the sandpaper marks off for a nice polished finish.
Quote from: Mustard on April 20, 2016, 07:10:45 AM
Lately local people started asking for prices, I am not sure if my pedals look "professional" enough for sale yet :icon_confused:
Your builds look WAAAAYYYY more professional than mine did when I started selling :P
Thanks! Yeah I tried several buffing pads and compounds, I mean it is not as noticeable in person as it is on pictures due to flash, but still... I am a bit nitpicky
Huh, this thread is quite slow, was hoping for more suggestions on my finishing technique.
Maybe your etching skills are so far ahead of most of the rest of us that we don't have anything constructive to offer?
Quote from: Cozybuilder on April 21, 2016, 09:10:20 AM
Maybe your etching skills are so far ahead of most of the rest of us that we don't have anything constructive to offer?
Haha, by seeing some builds here I highly doubt this is the case :icon_biggrin:
One of my previous hobbies was building boomerangs. Profiles are done with sand paper and then for certain models it is advisable to get a smooth finish to minimise friction losses and get more range from your boom.
So I used in order:
- sandpaper of progressively finer grade, have you considered wet and dry?
- then scotchbrite cloth, this can be not necessary depending on the last grade sandpaper you used
- Toothpaste, it is a very mild but effective abrasive, it gives you a mirror finish, gel is milder, so smoother finish, than paste. You can apply it by hand, you will get results in a few minutes. But maybe the use of mechanical means gets you there fast.[/]
All the above works on plastic. I do not know about metal. It is always worth trying. Do it on one of your lids perhaps. Prior to the toothpaste you need to get a good finish or you will still see the signs of the previous pass. Good luck.
Like these?
(https://reverb-res.cloudinary.com/image/upload/s--o2itRnBi--/a_exif,c_limit,f_auto,fl_progressive,h_620,q_75,w_620/v1440371775/rm41qxhyggnz4x7lctrs.jpg)
Quote from: Cozybuilder on April 21, 2016, 10:09:14 AM
Like these?
(https://reverb-res.cloudinary.com/image/upload/s--o2itRnBi--/a_exif,c_limit,f_auto,fl_progressive,h_620,q_75,w_620/v1440371775/rm41qxhyggnz4x7lctrs.jpg)
you'd be amazed at the number of kangaroos have been killed by these bloody things .......
also, extra cut auto polish will do some very fine cutting/polishing, perhaps as a last step.
Little OT:
These
(http://www.boomerangsport.it/boomerangsport.it/public/forumv3/download/file.php?id=187)
(http://www.boomerangsport.it/boomerangsport.it/public/forumv3/download/file.php?id=188)
More OT: I still think one of the funniest scenes in the original Road Warrior was the feral boy throwing his boomerang and one of the attackers tried to catch it- losing a bunch of fingers for his efforts.
(http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/roadwarrior/images/8/8e/Feral_kid_boomerang.png/revision/latest?cb=20150523095755)
Thanks for the tips guys! I doubt auto-polish works on bare metal hmmm? I mean, its designed to polish already painted surface (aka cars :icon_lol:), its still worth a shot tho. I think what is causing my "troubles" is sanding by machine not by hand, will try to patiently hand-sand it with A LOT of different grits, so far my biggest jump is from 400 grt to 1000, gonna add a few inbetween and up to 2000, that should to the trick, hopefully!
Mother's Aluminum Mag polish works great on bare copper, might do something for aluminum.
https://store.mothers.com/shop/product-line/mothers-classic/mag-aluminum-polish-2/
are you wet sanding on glass?
Quote from: Cozybuilder on April 21, 2016, 10:47:17 AM
More OT: I still think one of the funniest scenes in the original Road Warrior was the feral boy throwing his boomerang and one of the attackers tried to catch it- losing a bunch of fingers for his efforts.
What???!!! Road Warrior??!!!!
MAD MAX, *please*...
:)
david
Quote from: greaser_au on April 22, 2016, 11:23:30 AM
What???!!! Road Warrior??!!!! MAD MAX, *please*...
:)
david
Mad Max (1979) is a truly classic piece of Australiana, easily my favourite of the series for that reason. When Fury Road was coming, I was really hoping that it would feature a bit more of that than The Road Warrior and Beyond Thunderdome. I wasn't disappointed. It certainly wasn't as Australiana as the original, but it was catering to a much broader audience (never go full 'Straya).
The original was re-dubbed for US audiences (they couldn't understand Mel's 'Stralyan drawl apparently, though his American accent was still quite noticeable for Australian audiences), and when it was first released on DVD, it was only available in the US dub for a few years, which was quite off-putting for me and others who watched it with me. I was really glad when the original Australian edition became available on digital media.
The Road Warrior and Beyond Thunderdome are really pretty bad, but they do have their moments. I always find it amusing how much more Americans think of The Road Warrior as being the definitive film, but I guess us Aussies have a very different appreciation of the series.
Mad Max and Road Warrior go hand in hand for me, they are a set, my favorite movies of all time. Beyond Thunderdome is not worth mentioning and Fury Road was just aaiight.
Also, I use toothpaste to polish my steel camping mirror when it gets dull
The first two films are so different I can hardly group them together. Thunderdome was just awful, haven't seen Fury Road. Funny I read somewhere that Mad Max spun out of public service anti-speeding/road safety films.
Hey guys. I don't really hang out here, but I did create a facebook group for us.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1706759216202535/
I like to burn the whole enclosure and just leave a little of the virgin Aluminum.
Check out my instagram or website, I guess. I can't find how to attach images at the moment
www.droppingacidpedaletching.com
https://www.instagram.com/droppingacidpedaletching/
Quote from: JonnyAngle on May 03, 2016, 11:07:19 AM
Hey guys. I don't really hang out here, but I did create a facebook group for us.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1706759216202535/
I like to burn the whole enclosure and just leave a little of the virgin Aluminum.
Check out my instagram or website, I guess. I can't find how to attach images at the moment
www.droppingacidpedaletching.com
https://www.instagram.com/droppingacidpedaletching/
Posting an image is a little convoluted, but very simple once you know how to do it. Save your photo to an image hosting site (I use Photobucket, but some people don't like it. Some popular ones are Flickr, Imgur, and TinyPic) and follow these instructions:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=108594.msg999647#msg999647
No pictures yet and apologies if there's a better thread, but thought I'd ask are most people chemically etching these I had a play using a vinigar and salt bath and electro etching aluminium with a 12v 4 amp power supply with reasonable results do other use this as opposed to chemicals?
https://flic.kr/p/HjBrfK
Here how my trial looked 40min @ 4amps
I use electrical current at times as well. Coincidentally, that's how I etched the POWER STAGES on my site. I use current whenever acid doesn't bite
(http://s32.postimg.org/s38iajcyd/etched_Fractal.jpg)
cool...whats that led 10mm?.
looks good...i thought it was maybe a cover or something.. 8)
It was one of these things you add to an order to get over the free-postage-limit. So I gave it a try with this Aion Fractal build and quite like it!
First etch with NaOH, and first time trying to do a multicolor one:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43516629/spedut/leafblower/kollaasi.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43516629/spedut/leafblower/leablower666.JPG)
so, you'd be happy with the way it turned out?
Quote from: Sirppi on July 09, 2016, 09:20:26 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43516629/spedut/leafblower/leablower666.JPG)
Whether you're happy with it or not, I can assure you I'm happy enough with it for the both of us. Killer etch 8)
Quote from: duck_arse on July 09, 2016, 10:42:04 AM
so, you'd be happy with the way it turned out?
Quote from: vigilante397 on July 09, 2016, 05:32:46 PM
Whether you're happy with it or not, I can assure you I'm happy enough with it for the both of us. Killer etch 8)
Couldn't be much happier, I expected much less. :icon_surprised: The whole process was a lot smoother than with my previous etches with ferric chloride, although handling NaOH was much more unnerving.
I followed this (http://diy-guitar-effects.tumblr.com/etching) guide, but used some weird cheap yellow toner transfer paper from china.
Thanks! 8)
Okay, that might be the etch of the year...
Quote from: Sirppi
The whole process was a lot smoother than with my previous etches with ferric chloride, although handling NaOH was much more unnerving.
Bwahahaha! Heck I had trouble even just figuring out the steps of your photo series!
Question: Why did using NaOH unnerve you? I've always used Ferric Chloride, so I don't know the difference.
Quote from: Sirppi on July 09, 2016, 09:20:26 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43516629/spedut/leafblower/leablower666.JPG)
Dude, that is f*cking wicked! Great job!
Glad you found the tutorial of use, keep up the good work!
Quote from: Sirppi on July 09, 2016, 09:20:26 AM
First etch with NaOH, and first time trying to do a multicolor one:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/43516629/spedut/leafblower/leablower666.JPG)
This is one of the prettiest etches I've ever seen! Great design and perfect color combination.
Thanks for sharing the pic tutorial. Makes me really want to try this.
Quote from: hylandren on July 14, 2016, 02:11:51 PM
Okay, that might be the etch of the year...
Already? Thanks :icon_redface:
Quote from: hylandren on July 14, 2016, 02:11:51 PM
Bwahahaha! Heck I had trouble even just figuring out the steps of your photo series!
Question: Why did using NaOH unnerve you? I've always used Ferric Chloride, so I don't know the difference.
I tried to be overly cautious with the NaOH (sodium hydroxide/lye) solution because apparently it is highly corrosive to the skin (Fight Club!) and a drop to the eye may blind you.
E: And also etching metals with NaOH releases hydroxide, which should not be of much concern if you're in a well ventilated area and not prolongedly filling your lungs with it and suffocating. I did it in the parking lot of our apartment building, and kept away from the enclosure as it was etching.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QbRzV1aRap4/UDLPSuL_c8I/AAAAAAAAAN4/w59vtdpXBig/s1600/tumblr_lzvsu0Xqfj1qf7853o4_250.gif)
Quote from: Hexjibber on July 14, 2016, 06:15:30 PM
Dude, that is f*cking wicked! Great job!
Glad you found the tutorial of use, keep up the good work!
Thanks a lot! For the tutorial too, my friend achieved his first etch following it and it puts my first efforts to shame. :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: stringsthings on July 16, 2016, 01:30:01 AM
This is one of the prettiest etches I've ever seen! Great design and perfect color combination.
Thanks for sharing the pic tutorial. Makes me really want to try this.
Thank you! You should, all it takes is patience to do it well.
More soon... :icon_wink:
Quote from: Sirppi on July 16, 2016, 06:31:07 PM
I tried to be overly cautious with the NaOH ...
You can handle it (although I shouldn't recomend it) if your hands are dry. It is essentially the gold standard of bases, so once it gets wet, it gets hot and becomes very alkaline.
I would suggest you don't store the liquid solution - it is actually quite corrosive to glass - and can be disposed of down an outside drain when diluted.
p.s. nice etch.
Finally re-did a previous failure I posted. Last time, the enclosure came out great, but the circuit board was too wide to fit! Now upsized to a 125b, everything fits just right.
This is a Tube Screamer 808 ala GGG, with AMZ fat mod and diode selector switch. Otherwise, stock values. Have to say, this thing totally rocks with my newly restored Sovtek Mig 100H. That is another post, which you might check out if you're interested, here: http://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/sovtek-mig-100h-power-transformer-wiring.1695939/
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Ben%20Deer%20Driver%20Pics/IMG_0553.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Ben%20Deer%20Driver%20Pics/IMG_0557.JPG)
Quote from: statzern on July 23, 2016, 08:35:57 PM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4904964/Ben%20Deer%20Driver%20Pics/IMG_0553.JPG)
I said this last time and I'll say it again: I freaking love that box! ;D
I like it too....with the exception of that white washer.
Quote from: stallik on July 25, 2016, 11:28:28 AM
I like it too....with the exception of that white washer.
i agree,
i see that alot someones makes an excelent enclosue design, and then ruins it with the plastic washer...why?
i dont like them so i throw them away.
Personal taste that's all. I have a particular fondness for the washers used by TC Electronics but they, I'm sure, are proprietary. The white ones just don't float my boat.
I don't have a problem with the plastic ones. Obviously they don't add anything aesthetically, but in most cases I don't personally feel like they take anything away. Preferences ;D
ban the white washers... :icon_twisted:
On a white pedal they look fine. Otherwise, for me it is hit or miss. I prefer a metal washer, but I'm not going out of my way to order or buy them because of it.
I got myself some copper washers (plumbing supplies!). Not sure how they'll end up in the long run. I'm hoping for a charming patina, but they may just end up green... ::)
(http://www.bouron.org.uk/marc/rm367.JPG)
Lookin' good to me! If they get a lil' patina that'll only add to the charm. :icon_cool:
if nothing else, blue, it'll keep the slugs away.
Quote from: stallik on July 25, 2016, 11:28:28 AM
I like it too....with the exception of that white washer.
What do you use instead? I know they're pretty unsightly, but I've read they are pretty important in terms of stress relief on the switch. I wonder if they can be primed/painted?
I've seen people paint them. I just get cheap similarly sized washers from the hardware and fang 'em in.
I've also got some red fibre washers. Like the copper ones, they're smaller than the whiteys and blend in quite nicely with a red(-ish) case finish.
(http://www.bouron.org.uk/marc/E11710.JPG) (http://www.bouron.org.uk/marc/vox832.JPG) (http://www.bouron.org.uk/marc/bh234.JPG)
It's what we have for today. Yes i forget the pedal on the chloride, but be sincerely, was not too bad, no? Haha!
(https://s14.postimg.org/q1x289ca9/IMG_20160909_WA0003.jpg)
Has anyone tried dying the washer?
Back in the 80's when I raced RC cars we would dye the nylon parts with RIT dye.
Could try dropping one in a chicken madras next time I have a curry? ;D
Quote from: bluebunny on September 10, 2016, 11:33:15 AM
Could try dropping one in a chicken madras next time I have a curry? ;D
Why, that sounds like a perfekt idea, thank you for that.
(Don't mind me, I'm just trying to curry a favor)
((Now where's my coat?))
seeing as it was yr birthday, perrow, we'll let you off with that one. [luckilly, I don't know any curry puns.]
I just dyed some knobs for my stratocaster. With coffee and tea, not much happened. Then I added a bit of curry...
Ah, the wonders of saffron. I recommend applying it with bare fingers while wearing white. Kitchen worktop is a suitable location and do invite the grandchildren to help. A slap dash approach is usually the most effective way to impress the wife...
I like the way you think, Kevin. >:) Turmeric can be so colourful!
Sent from my E2303 using Tapatalk
My latest etch. Combining reversed etch and hammer paint turned out to be quite tricky. I'm satisfied with the result, but it's not perfect (I think you can see it on the knob labels).
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/3fz344n5r6bh8w3/no29phaser.jpg?dl=0)
And the usual mess inside.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/g3blv2igf7czy0e/no29gut.jpg?dl=0)
love the mix of etch and hammer....very cool. 8)
kev, i followed your tips, you will be hearing from my solicitor soon.... :icon_twisted:
Quote
kev, i followed your tips, you will be hearing from my solicitor soon.... :icon_twisted:
Why Rob, does he need personal instruction in the technique? ;D
Pettol - love that logo. There's so much going on in it yet it looks simple. Pi over 2 and the symbols. Really neat job
Wow, another beauty Pettol!
Still can't get over how you and dead astronaut get such thin fine lettering to come out so cleanly on your etches.
Thanks a lot guys!
Quote from: Pettol on September 14, 2016, 08:25:40 AM
My latest etch. Combining reversed etch and hammer paint turned out to be quite tricky. I'm satisfied with the result, but it's not perfect (I think you can see it on the knob labels).
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/3fz344n5r6bh8w3/no29phaser.jpg?dl=0)
And the usual mess inside.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/g3blv2igf7czy0e/no29gut.jpg?dl=0)
Wow... I think it IS perfect!
Really clean, in and out!
Pettol, your enclosures are beyond me... You must have some kind of laser or ion beam contraption hidden in your cellar.
Nevertheless I am going to show my latest results here.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/1590a/FTM_BB_Raw_Etch.jpg)
The etches are always great to my eye but after I realized that an all-aluminum pedal board is of no use on a stage I decided to add some colour. And at that point my pedals always start to look heavily-used.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/1590a/FTM_1590a.jpg)
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/1590a/XOTIC_BB_1590a.jpg)
But I got used to it and now I even define my style accordingly.
Quote from: bluebunny on September 14, 2016, 02:48:58 AM
I like the way you think, Kevin. >:) Turmeric can be so colourful!
I sprayed my white knobs with glow in the dark paint and out a UV led instead of standard. Beautiful!
Pettol those are some incredible etches. I wouldn't be brave enough to try to reverse etch with such a fine font. It looks insanely good. The hammered paint just takes it to another level.
Lars, 1590A builds are the stuff of nightmares for me. A "1590A reverse etch with 3 pots and 2 switches" sounds like and absolute ordeal.
Not sure I shared my last successful reverse etch here. It's not perfect but I was fairly happy with it. Which is saying something as I'm usually a miserable bastard.
(https://s13.postimg.org/evwp97503/13336126_10207690246706717_8240249262619032381_n.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/evwp97503/)
123
Quote from: Darkpoem9 on December 06, 2016, 10:07:44 PM
/Users/atheus/Desktop/IMG_7361.JPG
you'll have to post a link to a photo on the internet. that address is on your computer.
https://fr.pinterest.com/atheus0855/pins/
Quote from: Darkpoem9 on December 09, 2016, 11:42:05 AM
https://fr.pinterest.com/atheus0855/pins/
Now that's cool!
I am the Anti-Russ (Cozybuilder)--
He keeps going smaller, and I keep going bigger!!
After about a year and a half hiatus.. took some time and started work again. Finished this one today and have 3 more on the bench nearing completion!
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/FullKLON_zpsp07zbrlg.jpg)
Happy New Year!
Mark
Clean and beautiful job.
Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
Thanks! It has a little shadowing around the artwork.. and a scar (scratch) too.. but, it turned out acceptable. Considering it is the first etch I have done in about 2 years.. I'm happy! It was also hard sanding out this big enclosure.. I think it is a 1590X? Something like that.
Good to be creating again.
MC
Looks very good. Are you using some kind of sanding block? Makes sanding enclosures a lot more effective.
Actually-- I use a belt sander to get them down "near" flat now.. it speeds things up. Then I use a sanding block with 220 or so grit paper to finish it. Even with a belt sander, this box took a couple hours to get flat.
And the shadowing is my fault too.. I processed this about 3 minutes of etch.. Usually, I go about 2 minutes... But, I was trying for a good deep etch. My fault. It is all good as this is a 1st prototype of a new build/project. I'm happy with it.
Nice, clean, well-done etch. Looks fantastic Mark 8)
nice to see you back, mark.
After 3 failed attempts, I was finally able to make my first etched enclosure.
I first try with NaOH but wasn't getting any good results. Either the etching was too much or not enough. So I decided to try ferric chloride and it was much easier. I'm still learning how to etch properly, and I know I should probably give this one a good shine, but I really like the "dirty" look of it. Afterall, it's a fuzz! And no, no knobs at least until I find one that goes well with the pedal.
The pedal itself is a Fuzz Factory clone, the Zombii Fuzz from MadBeans, with 2 AC128s. Any tips you guys might have would be appreciated.
(https://s24.postimg.org/fgzp9uft1/P_20161221_135428.jpg)
Quote from: duck_arse on December 31, 2016, 08:43:20 AM
nice to see you back, mark.
Thank you Duckster! Glad to still be here! 8)
Quote from: asreis85 on December 31, 2016, 01:03:15 PM
After 3 failed attempts, I was finally able to make my first etched enclosure.
I first try with NaOH but wasn't getting any good results. Either the etching was too much or not enough. So I decided to try ferric chloride and it was much easier. I'm still learning how to etch properly, and I know I should probably give this one a good shine, but I really like the "dirty" look of it. Afterall, it's a fuzz! And no, no knobs at least until I find one that goes well with the pedal.
The pedal itself is a Fuzz Factory clone, the Zombii Fuzz from MadBeans, with 2 AC128s. Any tips you guys might have would be appreciated.
(https://s24.postimg.org/fgzp9uft1/P_20161221_135428.jpg)
I use a 1-1-1 mix of 40% Peroxide (from the beauty supply store), Hydrochloric acid (from the pool supply store, Muriatic acid), and distilled water. 2 to 2.5 minutes is the trick.. Over processing makes the pits and the shadows. I go 30 seconds at a time, rinsing in a water bath, and softly scrubbing the etch areas with a toothbrush. i.e. 4 to 5 "dips" in the acid. If you still have shadows, be better about your masking areas. I cover as much of the dead space with blue masking tape, and draw around the etching with a paint pencil. Clean it all up at the end with lacquer thinner. And finally a quick scrub off with a Scotchbrite pad or steel wool. Hope that helps! ;D Practice makes perfect.
Quote from: italianguy63 on December 31, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
I use a 1-1-1 mix of 40% Peroxide (from the beauty supply store), Hydrochloric acid (from the pool supply store, Muriatic acid), and distilled water. 2 to 2.5 minutes is the trick.. Over processing makes the pits and the shadows. I go 30 seconds at a time, rinsing in a water bath, and softly scrubbing the etch areas with a toothbrush. i.e. 4 to 5 "dips" in the acid. If you still have shadows, be better about your masking areas. I cover as much of the dead space with blue masking tape, and draw around the etching with a paint pencil. Clean it all up at the end with lacquer thinner. And finally a quick scrub off with a Scotchbrite pad or steel wool. Hope that helps! ;D Practice makes perfect.
Thanks a lot! Etching is addictive, and I already have some more projects in mind. I'll make sure to try your formula. Do you dip the pedal in it or pour with a pipette or something?
I use 2 pyrex dishes.. one with the acid, and one with the clean water... just dip the face into each.. I use about 150ml of solvent in the acid bath (50ml of each component)--
MC
Quote from: italianguy63 on December 31, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
I use a 1-1-1 mix of 40% Peroxide (from the beauty supply store), Hydrochloric acid (from the pool supply store, Muriatic acid), and distilled water.
Remembering the old adage " Acid to water, just like you Otter", I assume you add the acid to the water, and
NOT the other way around, which can sometimes become "unstable"...
(Unless the peroxide somehow acts to stabilize the mixture....)
Quote from: italianguy63 on December 31, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
I use a 1-1-1 mix of 40% Peroxide (from the beauty supply store), Hydrochloric acid (from the pool supply store, Muriatic acid), and distilled water. 2 to 2.5 minutes is the trick.. Over processing makes the pits and the shadows. I go 30 seconds at a time, rinsing in a water bath, and softly scrubbing the etch areas with a toothbrush. i.e. 4 to 5 "dips" in the acid. If you still have shadows, be better about your masking areas. I cover as much of the dead space with blue masking tape, and draw around the etching with a paint pencil. Clean it all up at the end with lacquer thinner. And finally a quick scrub off with a Scotchbrite pad or steel wool. Hope that helps! ;D Practice makes perfect.
That's a good tip for getting 40% Peroxide from a beauty supply store. I've been using H202 from the drug store. I think it's 3%.
Quote from: stringsthings on January 05, 2017, 06:03:53 PM
Quote from: italianguy63 on December 31, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
I use a 1-1-1 mix of 40% Peroxide (from the beauty supply store), Hydrochloric acid (from the pool supply store, Muriatic acid), and distilled water. 2 to 2.5 minutes is the trick.. Over processing makes the pits and the shadows. I go 30 seconds at a time, rinsing in a water bath, and softly scrubbing the etch areas with a toothbrush. i.e. 4 to 5 "dips" in the acid. If you still have shadows, be better about your masking areas. I cover as much of the dead space with blue masking tape, and draw around the etching with a paint pencil. Clean it all up at the end with lacquer thinner. And finally a quick scrub off with a Scotchbrite pad or steel wool. Hope that helps! ;D Practice makes perfect.
That's a good tip for getting 40% Peroxide from a beauty supply store. I've been using H202 from the drug store. I think it's 3%.
Our neighbourhood drug store has the stronger peroxides in the hair colouring section of the store.
dave
Quote from: hylandren on January 03, 2017, 12:43:44 PM
Quote from: italianguy63 on December 31, 2016, 01:40:47 PM
I use a 1-1-1 mix of 40% Peroxide (from the beauty supply store), Hydrochloric acid (from the pool supply store, Muriatic acid), and distilled water.
Remembering the old adage " Acid to water, just like you Otter", I assume you add the acid to the water, and NOT the other way around, which can sometimes become "unstable"...
(Unless the peroxide somehow acts to stabilize the mixture....)
Yes. Water, then add acid, then add peroxide. (good point)
Enclosure for an engineers thumb. Used pieces of the schem and another compressor schem for the background. Lye etch. Totally botched some of the jack drilling, but it looks ok from the top. ;-)
(http://imgur.com/43ivoi9.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/tHVqyFl.jpg)
Oh man, so many good executions here! Nice work everyone. Very inspiring. Edit: fix typos. DK1, That etch is very slick - I cant decide if I like the pre-painted version more or not.
DK1 love it...very cool. 8)
Rob said all. :o Man... Applause please...
Beautiful one DK1!
Very clever idea to use a "PCB green" or "chalkboard green" color!
Quote from: Benoi31 on January 21, 2017, 11:18:02 AM
Beautiful one DK1!
Very clever idea to use a "PCB green" or "chalkboard green" color!
Seconded. Beautiful work. I like the "negative space" effect - looking through the panel at the circuit beyond.
Tom
Quote from: Darkpoem9 on December 09, 2016, 11:42:05 AM
https://fr.pinterest.com/atheus0855/pins/
How did you ever did this ??? nostalgic!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Love it, DK1!
1776 reverb in a 1590A Etched the "D" then used pink sparkle rattle can spray paint.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R_DVbjY3cFk/WKXIeMF5ZsI/AAAAAAAACQE/6b1Ryn-wUg8s702qNTCg9xfoqXDq_YKUgCLcB/s320/Photo%2BFeb%2B16%252C%2B1%2B40%2B04%2BAM.jpg)
Voodoo Vibe clones
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-824mvbZTJ5c/WIZOIgBrbTI/AAAAAAAACNk/K1yvg2I2MiUOQnaUyH9Fr1XW2o-moLmFQCLcB/s400/Photo%2BJan%2B20%252C%2B1%2B11%2B09%2BAM.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zrJ-oqAAdY4/V8jjiMAwT6I/AAAAAAAACHk/wbOb3DBXZ_0heWifP2TZSNump9V6abi8wCLcB/s400/Photo%2BSep%2B01%252C%2B6%2B01%2B52%2BPM.jpg)
I made a Lovetone Big Cheese and think that this might even be the best etch I've ever produced.
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/Cheese_1590B.jpg)
lovely, strawberry and cream...nice 8)
My latest. The tremolololololo. A Tremulus Lune. My first try at an acid etch instead of lye. Needs refinement.
The right eye blinks for extra derp. :-D
(http://imgur.com/eUHrpgM.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/Q2tgBIQ.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/iJ3sqYD.jpg)
man, haven't been on to check out peoples builds, let alone build something never for myself to make a new enclosure. there's some amazing work guys. now i've got to get my ass in gear and do something new for me and get to designing. seriously can't say enough about how good all the work above is.
My first complete pcb design. A green ringer. Note, the pcb has one broken trace and and error that I had to fix manually... But once I got those jumpers in, it worked great! Laid it out to fit the box, still ended up pretty tight because I forgot to take into account the lid.
And yes, this is etched. I primered in white, painted green, then sanded it down to give it a worn look. I really enjoy the way it turned out.
(http://imgur.com/UkqneEJ.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/2oB1cxI.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/9Txx2g2.jpg)
Please delete, double post.
Simply TS808
(http://i64.tinypic.com/20u9ykn.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/9Txx2g2.jpg)
Nice build, DK1. I am not to the point where I can do my own PCB yet.
I am urious: What are you using to hold the enclosure up while spraying it ?
Quote from: hylandren on March 18, 2017, 12:11:43 PM
I am curious: What are you using to hold the enclosure up while spraying it ?
Those are painter's pyramids. Very handy. You can get a pack of 10 of them off Amazon for under $10. A better investment may be getting the Versaspin turntable with 4 pyramids included for under $20. I wish I'd done that. The turntable would be really handy, and I've never needed more than 4 pyramids at a time.
Madbean Kraken - Super fun pedal to play around with.
Had probably my best toner transfer ever. Didn't get the mix right, so the etch wasn't deep enough. Bummer.
(http://imgur.com/qGmH9BS.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/gXSwpjj.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2841/32724637173_f0a9324f20_b.jpg)
Etched this BMP about 4 years ago - same source for graphics.
Andrew
that BMP is great!
I am damn proud of this King of Tone!
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/kngsdrv_01.jpg)
Wow, that's beautiful!
That's a very nice etch Lars!
MIDI controller (Arduino based) for a Meeblip Anode monophonic synth.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3683/33685696166_afb8cd3ab3_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2863/33570192622_a92c841542_c.jpg)
Andrew.
Quote from: electrosonic on March 31, 2017, 03:31:33 PM
MIDI controller (Arduino based) for a Meeblip Anode monophonic synth.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3683/33685696166_afb8cd3ab3_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2863/33570192622_a92c841542_c.jpg)
Andrew.
Hey Andrew! Very good building. Have you any video about this? I would like a lot to see it.
That king of tone looks amazing! Are you using toner transfer to get that kind of result?
I loved that ornament pattern!
Quote from: thomasha on April 02, 2017, 02:29:57 PM
That king of tone looks amazing! Are you using toner transfer to get that kind of result?
I loved that ornament pattern!
Thanks. Yes, that's toner transfer. I came to believe that the quality of the enclosure makes all the difference. I got rotten results with cheapo Eddy Stone enclosures and the King of Tone kind with Hammonds. No different treatment.
Quote from: lars-musik on April 02, 2017, 03:55:26 PM
Thanks. Yes, that's toner transfer. I came to believe that the quality of the enclosure makes all the difference. I got rotten results with cheapo Eddy Stone enclosures and the King of Tone kind with Hammonds. No different treatment.
What sort of enchant are you using? I'm having trouble getting mine deep enough before the transfer starts to erode. I've been working on some different mixes to try to balance speed and detail without much luck lately.
Quote from: lars-musik on March 30, 2017, 05:39:25 PM
I am damn proud of this King of Tone!
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/kngsdrv_01.jpg)
You can be proud! It is gorgeous!
How did you make that color gradient? Looks really nice
Quote from: Benoi31 on April 04, 2017, 02:55:34 AM
You can be proud! It is gorgeous!
How did you make that color gradient? Looks really nice
Thanks, Benoit!
I just used two spray paints successively for the colour gradient. I think both were some acrylic car colours.
By the way: I adore your blog and the pedals you create. And of course that you freely share your findigs! Keep it up!
Harmonic Transformer clone. Enclosure etched by Dan at A.D.D effects.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ERsTaTtJ5Og/WOT_Vnoi6gI/AAAAAAAACTI/ZCzUgwo1GDIZoGvqpckPDMdWS-1O_OgKACLcB/s400/Photo%2BApr%2B02%252C%2B12%2B48%2B52%2BAM.jpg)
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4cjCq4Brzg4/WOT_VZcUZ4I/AAAAAAAACTE/oc6FuoLk0dEfMLtvMOGjRxVFkwD3AKrzwCLcB/s400/Photo%2BApr%2B02%252C%2B12%2B54%2B55%2BAM.jpg)
Thanks.
-Mike-
Hey guys,
Long time reader, first time poster!
This morning I boxed up my Deep Blue Delay clone, really liked how the enclosure turned out. The guts are not my best work, this pedal has been on the debugging pile for a while. My veroboard work has improved since then haha.
As far as finishing:
I used an Epilog Helix 75W laser cutter to strip (etch) the paint off the enclosure.
Wet sanded to 400 grit, and sprayed a lot of coats of Krylon Dual Gloss, Banner Red.
Completely different method than the majority of you, but since I'm still etching stuff I hope you don't hate me.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2833/33897890625_8da9693719_b.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/33054647304_26baa85b78.jpg)
Adam
Hey Adam. Welcome!
Your enclosure looks great! And your veroboard work on this one is not bad. I can't do a veroboard, so to me it's a good word :icon_lol:
Zombie chorus, featuring Gascan Carol. A little noisy, but it sounds good.
(http://i.imgur.com/gj8yJq8.jpg)
had quite a few requests to make a pcb of this project...verified, works great..
only took a few years to do it.. ;)
(https://s5.postimg.org/7lc9hdls7/20170511_165349.jpg)
(https://s5.postimg.org/vldt35o5j/20170511_165724.jpg)
(https://s5.postimg.org/6gi7bzzbb/20170511_165315.jpg)
(https://s5.postimg.org/vldt35o5j/20170511_165724.jpg)
(https://s5.postimg.org/oe2xfsyh3/20170511_165127.jpg)
what it sounds like..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyMOOY_60vA&t=3s
At risk of it getting old (you've seen this one before)-- This came off my workbench today. After a long hiatus! But, this one is a little different as is a "full size" Klone in a Hammond 1590X enclosure. Came out really nice. Lower lid is etched too with my logo. With the original big honker knobs too...
Good to be back. More to come!
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/SteveKlon%20003_zpsbdy9x0fx.jpg)
MC
Nice one, Mark. Worth the wait. Those knobs look like a coupla kilos of bakelite each. ;)
Quote from: bluebunny on May 11, 2017, 03:36:40 PM
Nice one, Mark. Worth the wait. Those knobs look like a coupla kilos of bakelite each. ;)
Yes. God bless Small Bear.
Quote from: italianguy63 on May 11, 2017, 01:11:11 PM
At risk of it getting old (you've seen this one before)-- This came off my workbench today. After a long hiatus! But, this one is a little different as is a "full size" Klone in a Hammond 1590X enclosure. Came out really nice. Lower lid is etched too with my logo. With the original big honker knobs too...
Good to be back. More to come!
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/SteveKlon%20003_zpsbdy9x0fx.jpg)
MC
This pedal is heading to Steve Savage of Hypersona. Great local band right here out of my home town. They play all around Florida, especially up the E. Coast and at the big bike rallies. They are at the "rock" bar here in Titusville tonight.. They never get old to me. Some great talent, and super cool, approachable, and nice guys.
Quote from: italianguy63 on May 12, 2017, 06:47:51 AM
Some great talent, and super cool, approachable, and nice guys.
Those are the best kind of people 8) It's always nice to see something you've made in the hands of cool people that appreciate it.
I need to post this here, too:
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/BlueKlon_01.jpg)
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on April 07, 2017, 07:10:18 PM
Hey Adam. Welcome!
Thanks! I recently discovered the laser etch thread. That's where my stuff belongs!
Beautiful builds guys.
Mine is an etched face plate if that counts
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ed_C0agtGDA/WRsEj9RfXxI/AAAAAAAACcg/1OFtw6Ussxkx7JBe7iGaRXoWq_r_0rBlQCLcB/s320/Photo%2BMay%2B16%252C%2B9%2B52%2B22%2BAM.jpg)
You guys saw this design a few years back.. but, worth re-posting... A custom job off the bench.. A Neutron Filter (Mutron III)-- For a band buddy of mine... Came out pretty well. This time used canned H11F3 LED/FET modules.. It does not have the same amount of "voice" the one I built with home-made Vactrols.... Still a nice pedal. I enjoy doing these.
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/NuetronRusty_zpsu1csd5ro.jpg)
Sweet builds guys.... 8)
Little Angel Chorus:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/5pgec5.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/33wpers.jpg)
Got this one finished earlier this year. Just a Woolly Mammoth built to the tagboard vero layout. I wimped out on the 1590B and went bigger. Aesthetically, I think it was a good decision.
(https://s22.postimg.org/96ack41n1/IMAG0768.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/96ack41n1/)
Sadly the next lot of enclosures I have drying are all experiments with decal paper, so I'll likely be absent from this thread for a while. That said though, I'm almost out of decal paper so I might be etching again sooner than I thought.
Nice job, Iain.
Quote from: flanagan0718 on May 16, 2017, 04:04:38 PM
Mine is an etched face plate if that counts
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ed_C0agtGDA/WRsEj9RfXxI/AAAAAAAACcg/1OFtw6Ussxkx7JBe7iGaRXoWq_r_0rBlQCLcB/s320/Photo%2BMay%2B16%252C%2B9%2B52%2B22%2BAM.jpg)
nice work, bravo! i love face plates.
And another-- Klone in 1590BB...
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/MKLMain_zpsbvbezyqh.jpg)
MC
Finally completed, my Train Wreck (based on the Wampler 3-Wreck).
4 awesome things about it.
1. It actually works.
2. I managed to cram all the wires & veroboard into the box.
3. No noise!
4. It sounds sweet!
I'm just waiting on some knobs that fit properly.
First acid etch - I need to be more patient with etching in future.
Artwork is supposed to be of the 1895 Montparnasse Train Derailment.
Only taken me 7-9 months
(https://s9.postimg.org/4qzllmih7/completed_pedal.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4qzllmih7/)
Quote from: bamslam69 on May 31, 2017, 07:46:46 AM
4 awesome things about it.
1. It actually works.
2. I managed to cram all the wires & veroboard into the box.
3. No noise!
4. It sounds sweet!
Hard to complain there 8)
This is my first Pro Co Rat ever! I've used Joe Davisson's diode opamp. Reverse etched by me (my first reverse etch), artwork by Adiel Ricci.
(https://s9.postimg.org/ib2fxo4yz/rat.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ib2fxo4yz/)
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on June 18, 2017, 02:46:12 PM
(https://s9.postimg.org/ib2fxo4yz/rat.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ib2fxo4yz/)
Looks great! I've tried dozens of other dirt pedals that I liked, but the Rat will always be my #1 favorite. Hope you're enjoying it! ;D
Quote from: vigilante397 on June 19, 2017, 12:33:18 AM
Looks great! I've tried dozens of other dirt pedals that I liked, but the Rat will always be my #1 favorite. Hope you're enjoying it! ;D
Thanks, Nathan! In my opinion, this is one of those "why didn't I built it sooner?" circuits ;). I've been building some stuff for 15 years and didn't got to build a Rat or a Big Muff ever. Until now. And the next one is the Big Muff, just need some time to etch the enclosure and finish it 8).
I etched my first-ever pedal and although it did not come out perfect, I am pretty happy with the results. It's a tubescreamer with aion's pcb.
I made a big mistake with the pnp and forgot to flip the image so I ended up using the cat but the lettering was not usable.
I protected the side with tape, the upper part with nail polish and did the lettering with a sharpie.
Well, the ferric chloride ended up etching through the sharpie so I used an engraving bit on my dremel to go over them.
I then used a silver paint pen to make them pop and sprayed a couple of layers of clear lacquer.
It is far from perfect, but I do like the rough look!
(http://s3.postimg.org/9a8t1y6df/IMG_0290.jpg)
(http://s12.postimg.org/nmkc6pahp/IMG_0321.jpg)
^ banksy! and you get to step on a cat.
Not perfect, but here's a couple enclosures I just finished up today. First time using an image on the Apollo one on the moon. Turned out pretty good. Little over-sanded up by the top left corner, oops...
Apollo one is Tremulus Lune with some simple mods (Lune = moon = Apollo heh)
Blood Orange is Orange Peel, also with some simple mods + buffered output.
Keep the pics coming everyone!
(https://s21.postimg.org/lh9k13fc3/IMG_0046.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lh9k13fc3/)
(https://s21.postimg.org/udkc515yb/IMG_0047.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/udkc515yb/)
we canny see em captain...
well i cant.. :-\
I can see them and they look fantastic. Nice job
weird, i can see them now.. 8)
excellent... 8) 8) 8)
This is my first worthy result.
(https://s2.postimg.org/jhgabfxxh/Whats_App_Image_2017-08-05_at_20.15.49.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jhgabfxxh/)
Its for a xotic rc booster my son (10) is just soldering, the design elements and the name are his idea too - i just put them together.
I had some Problems with etching before, so this is my way after some experience:
- Sand 120 - 240 - 400 - 1000
- Print on injet-photopaper
- iron for about 5 Minutes
- Cool down and soak with warm water
- Peel of by rubbin softly with your fingers, use a sponge to remove rests
- Tape with parcel tape
- Place upside-up in a smal dish
- Repeatly put FeCl3 with a syringe on top of the pedal and watch it etch.
- rub with an old toothbrush from time to time
- when the result is ready rinse with water
There are 3 small spots where the toner seems to be underetched. I wonder if using warmer etching solution would speed up the process so smaller defects in the toner skin dont have the time to develop. Does anybody have experience with warm solution (like 50°C)
Quote from: statzern on July 27, 2017, 11:29:13 AM
(https://s21.postimg.org/lh9k13fc3/IMG_0046.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lh9k13fc3/)
(https://s21.postimg.org/udkc515yb/IMG_0047.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/udkc515yb/)
How did you do that? How can you paint the not-etched part of your housing?
2weiund2wanzig - welcome to the forum. nice first post; did you agonise over how to abbreviate each control legend down to 4 letters?
"BASS" and "GAIN" took just some hours but "TRBL" and "VOLM" were real pain! But i liked the"square" look :)
Thanks for the warm welcome, i am reading here since years so i don't feel new. I even didn't realize this was my first post ;D I have way to many hobbies ....
These are my first (not so good) attempts to pedal design:
An easy vibe:
(https://s1.postimg.org/q3epkw14b/2017-08-06_20.38.30.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/q3epkw14b/)
tremolus lune: (not etched but .... )
(https://s1.postimg.org/fe10smpbf/2017-08-06_20.38.42.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fe10smpbf/)
morning glory: (yes... coffee)
(https://s1.postimg.org/nkt0k7fe3/2017-08-06_20.38.47.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nkt0k7fe3/)
himmelstrutz fettto
(https://s1.postimg.org/4d5vnlx2j/2017-08-06_20.38.56.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4d5vnlx2j/)
I'm probably going to regret asking, but what is a "himmelstrutz fettto" when it's at home?
http://www.himmelstrutz.com/
Its a great manufactured pedal from a great guy in sweden.
Quote from: 2weiund2wanzig on August 06, 2017, 04:17:00 AM
Quote from: statzern on July 27, 2017, 11:29:13 AM
(https://s21.postimg.org/lh9k13fc3/IMG_0046.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lh9k13fc3/)
(https://s21.postimg.org/udkc515yb/IMG_0047.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/udkc515yb/)
How did you do that? How can you paint the not-etched part of your housing?
Hey man, thanks for the reply. Those enclosures are what a lot of people on the forums call a "reverse etch," which means basically much more of the enclosure is etched than is not. So, no magic there - the paint IS on the etched part, its just that almost the whole surface of the enclosure was etched and the light parts were the mask.
See this most excellent tutorial for a good example of the process: http://music.codydeschenes.com/?page_id=2035
Quote from: 2weiund2wanzig on August 06, 2017, 04:08:46 AM
Does anybody have experience with warm solution (like 50°C)
In general, I do not need to warm FeCl with aluminum enclosures, as the reaction is quite vigorous and actually heats up the enclosure considerably. However, I do not use the syringe or dropper method. I pour my FeCl into a plastic container (Gladware type container) and place the enclosure facedown in the solution. I can only leave it there for about 10-15 seconds at a time or it gets too hot. Obviously, the amount of heat generated depends on the amount of metal exposed to the etchant, so for these "reverse" etches, it is a lot! I wait about 10-15 sec then take it out and rinse it in a utility sink which serves two purposes - it cools the enclosure and removes some of the oxidized layer. If I were to leave the enclosure in, it would get too hot to touch and melt the toner...
If you have a good enough transfer of your toner, you should be able to etch quite deep without defects. I cannot stress enough though, you cannot compromise with the toner transfer. It must be perfect or your work will be for nothing. I'm glad things are working for you, but if I were going to offer any advice regarding your method, I would say there is no need to sand down to 1000 grit before toner transfer unless you want a near-mirror type finish because something that smooth may be hard for the toner to adhere to. Also, taking your time with leveling the enclosure (the more coarse grits) so the iron makes good contact and ironing slowly and covering every square millimeter are the most important parts to the process.
Hope that is helpful.
Yes, that is really helpful. I am just preparing a "reverse etch" on 1590a. How do you know that you etched deep enough or that the etch is getting "unfocused" at the edges? Do you turn the housing from time to time to have a look or isn't that helpful because its to oxidatet and "dirty"?
My first reverse etch for two emerson em drive in 1590a:
(https://s2.postimg.org/5pxe4a1d1/2017-08-09_17.35.29.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5pxe4a1d1/)
I used the technique as mentioned by statzern. Its quite hard to see how deep the etch is while you are in the etching progress. I checked afeter every 50 dips in the FeCl3 after the watering and took 6 rounds in about 5 Minutes. I stopped when i saw some erodation on the details.
Some small problems with the details on "volume" and "gain", i think i should use some bigger font for that.
Quote from: 2weiund2wanzig on August 09, 2017, 11:48:04 AM
(https://s2.postimg.org/5pxe4a1d1/2017-08-09_17.35.29.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5pxe4a1d1/)
I LOVE THIS.
Quote from: 2weiund2wanzig on August 09, 2017, 11:48:04 AM
My first reverse etch for two emerson em drive in 1590a:
(https://s2.postimg.org/5pxe4a1d1/2017-08-09_17.35.29.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5pxe4a1d1/)
I used the technique as mentioned by statzern. Its quite hard to see how deep the etch is while you are in the etching process
Nice job man! Looks very good. You are right that it is hard to gauge how deep your etch is, though this is something that comes with practice. I'm not an expert by any means - I've etched about 12 enclosures so far, but every one gets better and better, so the learning curve is not too bad!
Congrats on a cool enclosure! Keep on etching!
This one is my 2nd reverse etch and it was a gift for a friend which is a great guitar player. 2 days ago I gave him the pedal, but didn't told him it was a gift, I just said I wanted him to try it. Yesterday he messaged me saying he liked the pedal a lot and wanted to buy it from me, then I told him I made it as a gift. I'm very happy he liked the pedal this much.
(https://s26.postimg.org/40usq6sx1/21151465_1559651400763339_994988366652046457_n.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/40usq6sx1/)
What a great prezzie... 8)
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on September 01, 2017, 12:42:25 PM
This one is my 2nd reverse etch and it was a gift for a friend which is a great guitar player. 2 days ago I gave him the pedal, but didn't told him it was a gift, I just said I wanted him to try it. Yesterday he messaged me saying he liked the pedal a lot and wanted to buy it from me, then I told him I made it as a gift. I'm very happy he liked the pedal this much.
(https://s26.postimg.org/40usq6sx1/21151465_1559651400763339_994988366652046457_n.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/40usq6sx1/)
A trifecta of greatness: A great looking etch, a great story, and a great friendship gesture on your part!
Hey everyone,
here my first successful etch of the Eemu Preamp (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118341.msg1102312#msg1102312 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118341.msg1102312#msg1102312)):
(https://s27.postimg.org/kbz8fmqfl/Eemu_Preamp1.jpg)
I used a cold transfer with ethanol-acetone mix. The paper would not come of completely in water so I removed it with a sponge and spirit vinegar (10% acetic acid). Used a FeCl3 + HCl mix for etching after pure ferric chloride on the previous try left an insoluble residue that I could not remove and that kept rusting. Spray painted back, sanded (deliberately leaving out the edges a little bit), two coats of matte clear spay paint.
Cheers,
Andy
And here is something that did not go so great. My first try etching. Effect is my Adrenochrome fuzz, back when it was still called Bombus Bombus (I later discovered that there is a Bombus Fuzz already so I changed the name). Schematic here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118360.msg1102311#msg1102311 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118360.msg1102311#msg1102311)
(https://s27.postimg.org/3kdwwvq6r/Adrenochrome1.jpg)
I did a cold transfer just as for the Eemu but etched with NaOH. Turns out the toner did not like that. The NaOH dissolved the toner almost as fast as it etched the aluminium. So if the whole NaOH etching works seems to depend on the toner. unfortunately I cannot give you details because I had it printed in a copyshop. Only clear coat on this one. Not as I intended but if I had been going for industrial shabby chic it wouldn't be awful either.
Andy
:: RAT::
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17359309_617858435078341_5013752339098935249_o.jpg?oh=ffa9d91ed40848613c028a2c7eec1927&oe=5A608DB3)
:: Micro Amp ::
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17361724_617858318411686_542620165186405594_n.jpg?oh=ec97b5a7e0462bf6da9a49518a7d8262&oe=5A477DDA)
:: Fuzz Factory ::
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17309637_617411905122994_3834539886739972819_n.jpg?oh=34ec47bb469f9ecad4d3f1e61d697044&oe=5A56AF06)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17155507_617411798456338_966164208590747749_n.jpg?oh=89622dd8bb10aaa90ed1afd629b58216&oe=5A4DD2F5)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17353087_617411895122995_8589740096970109706_n.jpg?oh=8ad3bd789ac8fd518f16214fb0e4465d&oe=5A60B236)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17353301_617411931789658_5772164668864533408_n.jpg?oh=dc5f4c99421595caedf054ed0287858b&oe=5A4F2CC0)
:: FLANGER ::
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17218701_616878208509697_1915022962021372682_o.jpg?oh=5ea7f7baf6033804bf0853151c5c432f&oe=5A5DC365)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/17240577_616878278509690_5286572099774738783_o.jpg?oh=0c5b57b45590a9c05fc909c667f6d953&oe=5A58A9A0)
:: ZEN DRIVE ::
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/12052629_437162143147972_4413185149479509544_o.jpg?oh=bd37de7324339b6062660cdf630d87ed&oe=5A554BF6)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/1005339_437162123147974_9210336927405213031_n.jpg?oh=31743c93b6d0880c729f153b7a19d684&oe=5A59C777)
:: Compressor ::
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/19686_375075652689955_4615034787720146150_n.jpg?oh=ce87d634cfb7b575ef1e438e832f02c6&oe=5A5EF548)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/11329848_374741749390012_6943803171083612061_n.jpg?oh=f744e15ab60f437c8e352ca34dbae1ee&oe=5A446842)
:: KOT ::
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/11313020_375104279353759_1993952656203526433_o.jpg?oh=c06cced8adfac3458d89dbf7387a55f1&oe=5A5BA3BB)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/11020752_375104242687096_9192690773148898322_n.jpg?oh=627fd42ba7878c8e0128a705b0d6d006&oe=5A40BA04)
(https://scontent.fopo1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/11329974_375104432687077_1580100163128480716_n.jpg?oh=f9c308e1828230c629432a89366e8862&oe=5A49C3C4)
Here's my latest etch, just finished sanding down the black spray paint.
It's a Fuzzdogs "Hellgazer / Destroyer" pedal, an insane overdrive/fuzz combination pedal.
It actually fits in a 1590B, but I don't like to cram that many knobs and two footswitches in to that small of a box.
I like how the halftone pattern of the background came out, looking forward to finishing this.
(https://i.imgur.com/ikLzCY5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/irOF9mM.jpg)
Cinder,
If you don't mind, could you give us a quick rundown of your etching setup and procedure? I didn't even know that kind of result was possible with an etch!
Quote from: EBK on October 07, 2017, 09:18:10 PM
Cinder,
If you don't mind, could you give us a quick rundown of your etching setup and procedure? I didn't even know that kind of result was possible with an etch!
Sure, I'd gladly be of any help.
I'll try to just write a list of what I have and what I do, its not really that different from anything you've seen other people do.
1. Sand the enclosure top flat down to 400 grit. I use a sanding block and go from 120 or 180 up through 240 and then 400. Using too fine of a paper from the start is a waste of time.
2. Clean the sanded surface using isopropanol (rubbing alcohol) and some household paper.
3. Print the design on a glossy photo paper, I have some from a local hardware store that's 157g/m2 and is a real cheapo brand (20 small sheets for $5, each sheet takes only one print).
4. Cut out the design, I always have a few extra millimeters of black around the edge of the design which I tape over before etching.
5. Lay the design face down on the enclosure, put some folded household paper on top and then set your iron on top of that. I used the household paper for the first time with this enclosure and it works really well in distributing the weight/heat of the iron onto the whole surface - I really recommend this especially for a larger enclosure. Also a note here; I bought a cheap iron at a hardware store sale for $10, my only criteria was getting as much power as possible which was 2400W in this case, it makes a difference when applying heat to the enclosure comparing to 1400W irons or other. I always run the iron on maximum heat with no water in it for steaming.
6. Let the iron sit still, optionally give it a light press (not too much or the toner may smudge) for a minute or two. Then start to work the iron in circles, cross patterns, along edges etc on the enclosure, I removed the household paper for a while when doing this, then did it again with it just to get as much different coverage and pressure as possible. I ironed this large enclosure for 15 minutes.
7. When done ironing the photo paper should lay perfectly flat over the whole surface, if there are bubbles or raised spots, you are screwed and can either try applying the iron with the household paper for some time to try to set the paper, or you might as well admit failure. Been there done that.
8. If the photo paper looks good, toss it in a container of water immediately to get it to cool, works best if you are able to fill the inside of the box with water too, then it cools in a matter of seconds.
9. Start peeling the paper off, I start by using my fingers to roll of little rolls of the paper starting from the edges, the photo paper I have comes off in several layers.
10. When I have the bulk of the paper off I use a toothbrush with the bristles cut to half length to scrub the remaining paper off the enclosure, this works really well in getting all the little finicky bits out, like the small dots in the halftone pattern of the Destroyer pedal I just posted. It also doesn't really risk lifting the toner since the bristles scrub quite mildly.
11. Inspect for missing bits of toner or just weak coverage, if there is severe toner lift you just have to bite the bullet and start over - unless you can save it by point 12.
12. Use silicone to repair any missing or damaged parts of the toner, I have this small tube of bathroom silicone I use. It has pros and cons - Pro: It most definitely will not be eaten through by caustic soda. Con: You need to apply it and let it cure, then cut it to shape with a scalpel or similar and scrape the excess off the aluminium. This can be tricky depending on how complex the shape is that is messed up, so keep that in mind before starting to do touch-ups, it might be less work to just do a new transfer. Silicone is the only material I've found that seems absolutely resistant to caustic soda, regardless of the heat from the reaction. It can be a bit tricky to apply since it's like a thick paste.
13. When done with touch-ups use packing tape to tape the edges of the design, I put the packing tape over the black extra toner on the outside edges that I mentioned earlier. Make sure the tape seals nicely to the surface, i.e. press it down with your fingers. In the corners you may or may not want to put some silicone in order to prevent seeping where tape goes over another layer of tape.
14. Last check that you covered all the bits you need including touchups, tape and the toner transfer looks good.
15. Mix caustic soda. I mixed 25g of powder to 100ml of water for this enclosure, it's strong enough but not excessive, the solution doesn't need to be hot when applying it, I'd rather have it warm and let the reaction be slower, I don't trust the excessive heat to be kind to the tape, touchups or the toner for that matter.
16. Apply the solution to the enclosure, I use a synthetic brush for this. The etching went on for 15 minutes for this enclosure, then I checked it by running the enclosure under a tap and using the same cut-down toothbrush to scrub the soda and residue off, the etch was still a bit shallow so I set it back in my etching box (plastic box of any kind) and applied the caustic soda again with the brush and let it sit for another 15 minutes. After this the etch was good.
17. Rinse the enclosure under a running tap and use the toothbrush to scrub all the soda and residue off, the design should be clear to the touch now, mine was probably 0.5mm deep or maybe slightly more.
18. This is a good time to remove the packing tape and cleaning all the glue off with acetone, then tape the enclosure sides off with paint masking tape (tape made of paper, not plastic - doesn't leave glue residue the same as packing tape). Make sure to get all the silicone off at this point too, or it might mess up the paint job with greasy looking spots.
19. Spray paint the top of the enclosure, preferrably two layers, I do a bit thicker layers than you normally would because it seems to fill out the little irregularities in the etched metal. I use regular craft spray paint, nothing special about it.
20. Once the paint has cured, after about 2 hours or so, remove the tape, grap a sanding block and a 1200grit paper, sand the paint layer down slowly to see the design emerge without going too fast and sanding down any detail.
21. Any excess/stray paint can be removed with a q-tip and acetone, the etched enclosure is ready for drilling and whatever else you need to do to finish it.
Well.. that was a lot of steps in the end but I did kind of go into detail, I hope it gives some insight into what I do and whatever you might pick up for your own process.
Just don't get the impression that I do this without any hiccups myself, this enclosure took me several tries to get a good transfer, patience is key, at least until I can figure out something foolproof.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171013/30bda208f321275eda4db1824b752189.jpg)
Couple of utility pedals I just sent out!
-Mike-
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It really does exist....
The #2 Chasm Reverb by Deadastronaught.... Little bit of issue getting it troubleshot. But, all good now! Thanks again Rob, Law, and Samhay for the support!
Great pedal, wonderful PCB! I really like the build.
Anyway-- this pedal is a Xmas gift for my GF's brother... He goes by the name "Rat" and he digs playing surf music.. so a little bit of a custom job for him....
"Surf Rat" reverb...
MC
(https://s1.postimg.org/45eepoennf/Rat.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/45eepoennf/)
cool, came out great man....
why the off centre FS?....by request?
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 06, 2017, 04:02:42 AM
cool, came out great man....
why the off centre FS?....by request?
Really?! So the artwork would fit (of course!)
;D
:icon_redface: lol... of course.
Has anyone tried filling portions of an etched enclosure manually? I have this design (see below) and would like to fill parts of the bees and the portion behind the control letters (vol, flt, drv) with black. I had considered using permanent marker as it would fit nicely into the recessed areas, but the ink in a permanent marker is not actually black, and has this purple sheen to it. I am going to try putting a matte clear coat over some permanent marker on some scrap tonite and see if that reduces that effect, but I don't have very high expectations. I would use a paint pen but the lines are way too fine for that. Any other suggestions are appreciated!!
(https://s1.postimg.org/3k5saz0gjf/IMG_0402.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3k5saz0gjf/)
Quote from: statzern on November 06, 2017, 09:26:40 AM
Has anyone tried filling portions of an etched enclosure manually? I have this design (see below) and would like to fill parts of the bees and the portion behind the control letters (vol, flt, drv) with black. I had considered using permanent marker as it would fit nicely into the recessed areas, but the ink in a permanent marker is not actually black, and has this purple sheen to it. I am going to try putting a matte clear coat over some permanent marker on some scrap tonite and see if that reduces that effect, but I don't have very high expectations. I would use a paint pen but the lines are way too fine for that. Any other suggestions are appreciated!!
(https://s1.postimg.org/3k5saz0gjf/IMG_0402.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3k5saz0gjf/)
I know of one person who used a syringe full of ink and a microscope for doing that.
And I tried it with a srynge and thinned nail varnish. Looked great until the very last bit!
Please note that it wasn't my nail varnish. That's much too precious
finished a build with an etch that came out really nice.
Quite complex drawing, but a lot of the details survived.
for the pedal I used the lowrider schematic available at madbeans
(https://i.imgur.com/12KMF9ul.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3M8i2Szl.jpg?2)
thomasha - where did you get the ^ picture of BetterOffShred?
you mean the graveyard pipe organ poster?
really nice poster, I was looking for some pipe organ pictures online and that one blew my mind
''SKINWALKER'' hi gain chuggy bstd... 8) 8) 8) 8)
(https://s5.postimg.org/ny7q45fx3/20171209_211210.jpg)
(https://s5.postimg.org/a4jdf3v1j/20171209_211327.jpg)
(https://s5.postimg.org/5in96rh87/20171209_211335.jpg)
(https://s5.postimg.org/hxa173gg7/20171209_211448.jpg)
Beautifully done Rob
Now altogether everyone. Demo, demo, demo
Cheers...im on it.... ;)
When i get a mo....
ok you asked for it....a brief quick n dirty demo. :icon_twisted:
Some amazing tones in there Rob. Only listening on the iPad but a couple of settings sounded really big. Should sound massive on proper speakers.
Just noticed that, viewed from a distance, with a bit of a squint, I spy a hedgehog :)
lol..hedgehog.....i see that too now, you bstd ha ha.... ;D
yeah its pretty chunky, still cleans up on backing off etc...
nice n clean and quiet too in between chugs.....love it . 8)
i decided to start a thread on it.... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 29, 2017, 05:54:34 PM
i decided to start a thread on it.... ;)
That's 2018 spoken for, then! ;D ;D ;D
:icon_mrgreen:
Im going for a record this time....
nice work thomasha, i ran out of patience for those detailed etches, your's looks great
Hot damn. Rob, I think we should start a band.
get ya drums out then.... :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
I've got my bass. Are the trains running to Mottingham today?
Dunno ......my head hurts. Mass hangover...urghhhh..
Happy new year ha ha..
Not much action on this thread lately...
Two compressors -
(https://s14.postimg.org/59i7tjjl9/IMG_5408.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/59i7tjjl9/)
Andrew.
^ yeah been a bit quiet lately on here.....anyway, heres a new delay...
I know I've posted an earlier stage of this by pedal, but now it is finally done.
(http://i.imgur.com/gA6dNhfl.jpg)
2018 is my year to trim down my project backlog. So far, so good.
This was my very first intentional etch.
Very nice Erik, how odd you get the brass colour in the etch? Looks more metal than paint
Ordinary metallic gold spray paint. It was plan C after failing at electroplating and brass inlay powder. :icon_wink:
Love the brass/copper look..nice.. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 12, 2018, 02:27:21 PM
Love the brass/copper look..nice.. 8)
Thanks! One neat thing I learned here is that, as aluminum oxidizes and darkens, light paint/knob colors really start to stand out nicely.
I mailed that pedal to my brother this morning, or as I told him, I gave it wings and pointed it south. :icon_smile:
First build of 2018. It's a bazz fuss in parallel with a LPB. Made it for a bassist friend, and the artwork was a little pun (bass fuzz - bass fish :icon_lol:)
(https://s9.postimg.org/g9j97w2tn/fuzzfora.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g9j97w2tn/)
Here is a WM workalinke I just finished. PCB available at lovemyswitches
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/8e9e0928619f4900b3ae0549b50173af.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/e9087b932f254dbf376480c5bdd8f38f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180217/fba7a154080614e070e0328932d0f367.jpg)
-Mike-
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
3rd build of 2018. Well, this one was finished in 2017, but I made the enclosure today. It's a 1590A Triangle Big Muff, etched artwork based on the original one. I don't have any experience on using inks, so I painted it with nail polish :icon_lol:.
(https://s9.postimg.org/p7ax1ftmj/muff1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/p7ax1ftmj/)(https://s9.postimg.org/4aeowsb17/muff2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4aeowsb17/)(https://s9.postimg.org/d5fj7as3v/muff3.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/d5fj7as3v/)
4th build of 2018. It's a Devi Ever Hyperion. My cleanest etch so far, and painted with nail polish again (easy and cheap :icon_mrgreen:)
(https://s9.postimg.org/xerazatwb/IMG_20180227_183548.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xerazatwb/)(https://s9.postimg.org/rql08ex9n/IMG_20180227_183614.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/rql08ex9n/)
Finished this one yesterday.. probably posted others in the past.
Awaiting a new revision of the PCB for this one.. should be here any day!!
This is a true positive ground legit "Tychobrahe Octavia" Octave fuzz (with switchable octave feature).
Nice pedal...
MC
Edit-- Added a gut shot.
(https://s17.postimg.org/tec389hwr/La_Tunda.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/tec389hwr/)
(https://s17.postimg.org/cgwd8jkmj/Latunda_Gut.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/cgwd8jkmj/)
Does the "GD" stand for what we think it does?
Etched face plate for 0415 synth fuzz
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mfH0Wl6aNaI/Wpd0LFqcLMI/AAAAAAAACoY/vwxn4G8i4CkTGY6C6jVhJZaSkkv6Xb2wgCEwYBhgL/s320/Photo%2BFeb%2B19%252C%2B9%2B09%2B18%2BPM.jpg)
Hunter Fuzz by me.
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PphzEWlJd1c/WrXNltL9G2I/AAAAAAAACo8/W6kGSuIiZqoD-njsm_rIrQ7EFp3M7xcDQCLcBGAs/s400/Photo%2BMar%2B19%252C%2B11%2B07%2B48%2BPM%2B%25281%2529.jpg)
Nothing special--
Very basic DA Fuzz Face with AC128's. Low budget...
MC
(https://s18.postimg.org/jd6ic3qsl/DSC01603.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jd6ic3qsl/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/4ihwxnek5/DSC01605.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4ihwxnek5/)
Hey hey! I've been out of the game for a bit of a while, good to see the etching thread still going!
I've been printerless for about 2 years so haven't done any builds, but that time is over! :D This one is the Bloodstone phaser from Lectric-FX, based on the EHX Bad Stone. Had a few teething problems after not having built anything for a while but got there in there in the end! Great sounding phaser.
Reverse etched with NaOH, then metallic paint and a healthy dose of clear coat, I was going for a sort of Alex Grey artwork vibe if anyone is familiar with his work.
(https://78.media.tumblr.com/54eee5396565d284255a1e154d703b33/tumblr_p7biaq5oJ51s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
(https://78.media.tumblr.com/44c9a7a0369ed4656681d430bed64fbb/tumblr_p7biaq5oJ51s7epwwo2_1280.jpg)
(https://78.media.tumblr.com/d150f00aedc24f331255d6db8b4c33b3/tumblr_p7biaq5oJ51s7epwwo3_1280.jpg)
(https://78.media.tumblr.com/0e456186f4db1200f4675998be9e5693/tumblr_p7biaq5oJ51s7epwwo4_1280.jpg)
Wow! Awesome work!
yeah man, love it..... 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 17, 2018, 06:08:59 AM
I've been out of the game for a bit of a while
Now that's what I call a return! :D
Cheers dudes! 8)
Hexjibber, just one word: awesome!
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 17, 2018, 06:08:59 AM
(https://78.media.tumblr.com/54eee5396565d284255a1e154d703b33/tumblr_p7biaq5oJ51s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
Hot damn I missed you. Welcome back 8)
5th build of 2018. It's a Big Muff I made for a friend. He drew the artwork, I did a reverse etch on all sides of the enclosure (my first etch on a side of a enclosure), plus a little bit of "relic" finishing (actually the etches went too shallow and I got some of the ink removed when I was sanding the enclosure, but my friend liked the result, so I left it this way).
(https://s7.postimg.cc/omcx36ng7/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/omcx36ng7/)(https://s7.postimg.cc/buyqwoldz/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/buyqwoldz/)(https://s7.postimg.cc/tl0fhq6on/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tl0fhq6on/)(https://s7.postimg.cc/ep1wa52zr/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ep1wa52zr/)(https://s7.postimg.cc/yjnxw9px3/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/yjnxw9px3/)(https://s7.postimg.cc/w2c6p0dqf/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/w2c6p0dqf/)(https://s7.postimg.cc/vctecnkwn/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vctecnkwn/)
6th build of 2018. It's a mosfet booster. Simple, but effective. Artwork drawn by my brother, then I etched it.
(https://s7.postimg.cc/ew8kx7lzb/dentro.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ew8kx7lzb/) (https://s7.postimg.cc/5ogcgiucn/fora.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5ogcgiucn/) (https://s7.postimg.cc/c25fjrriv/led.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/c25fjrriv/)
Quote from: Hexjibber on April 17, 2018, 06:08:59 AM
(https://78.media.tumblr.com/54eee5396565d284255a1e154d703b33/tumblr_p7biaq5oJ51s7epwwo1_1280.jpg)
Amazing!
Will be a Centaur clone.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/nn1r12wvb/IMG_20180423_125923.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/nn1r12wvb/)
Very nice Andreas and well photographed. It's easy to see the depth of the etch. No labels?
Quote from: stallik on May 01, 2018, 02:10:48 PM
Very nice Andreas and well photographed. It's easy to see the depth of the etch. No labels?
Thx mate. Nah, no labels, customer thinks he got it figured :)
Here's another one. BMP with active Bass, parametric Mids, Treble blend and a LPB-1 in front via 2nd Stompswitch.
Will have two small red LEDs: If Boost is disabled, Hellboy's cigarette is lit, if it's activated, his eye glows red :)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/47i8zfq7b/IMG_20180501_153238.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/47i8zfq7b/)
7th build of 2018. A friend asked me for a fuzz that's "noisy", so I built him 2 Devi Ever fuzzes in series. I don't remember the exact names, but they're basically built around the Soda Meiser, one with a switch to choose between 2 different transistors and the other one with noise and chaos mods.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/60nr8l6az/lino.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/60nr8l6az/)
Another BMP. I don't know if it qualifies for this thread, but at least the plate and the foot switch cap are etched. :D
(https://s31.postimg.cc/4lv439m2f/20180413_151924.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4lv439m2f/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/6potwf82f/20180412_092138.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6potwf82f/)
Quote from: Pettol on May 11, 2018, 05:01:11 PM
I don't know if it qualifies for this thread
(https://i.imgur.com/dVDJiez.gif)
Great looking build 8)
Clean plate etch. Also, it's the first time I ever sw an etched footswitch! :icon_cool:
8th build of 2018. Doug Hammond's Highway89 using a layout provided by 287m - thanks again, bro!
(https://s33.postimg.cc/sz1cfy0xn/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/sz1cfy0xn/)
Btw, this one have 4 16mm pots in a 1590A :icon_wink:
(https://s33.postimg.cc/lkc0ngcgb/pots.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/lkc0ngcgb/)
Quote from: Pettol on May 11, 2018, 05:01:11 PM
Another BMP. I don't know if it qualifies for this thread, but at least the plate and the foot switch cap are etched. :D
(https://s31.postimg.cc/4lv439m2f/20180413_151924.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4lv439m2f/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/6potwf82f/20180412_092138.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6potwf82f/)
That's a beautiful enclosure, where d'ya get it?
Quote from: patrick398 on June 05, 2018, 03:07:32 PM
That's a beautiful enclosure, where d'ya get it?
I made it myself, so thanks! :D
I actually wrote a little tutorial how to make them:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/01og324tqfbmx7z/DIY%20enclosures%20v1.pdf?dl=0
You can also find it under Files in the DIY stompboxes (unofficial) group on Facebook.
I know this isn't technically etched, it's CNC engraved, and I already posted it in the big Pictures thread, I'm just really excited about how it turned out and wanted to post it here as well :P
(https://i.imgur.com/v5MF71k.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6Q3R701.jpg)
very cool nathan....came out great man. 8) 8) 8)
First try at etching, used NaOH, many, many, (MANY) attempts to get the image to adhere on the box and still wasn't 100% happy, the upper left corner was masked fine I just let the etch go a little too long. It took about 20(ish) minutes, thought that it was going to be longer from others' postings, anyhow will know better for next time.
(https://s33.postimg.cc/4y8p92tjv/STS3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4y8p92tjv/)
10th build of 2018. A friend asked me to build him a pedal called "satan muff", it's an internal joke. Despite the name, the circuit is Joe Davisson's Transistor Obsidian.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/xz1vyg2pj/obsidian.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/xz1vyg2pj/)
Does any of you guys use clear coat after painting the etched enclosure? Doesn't it peel off?
I'll second Mat's question. I haven't etched a box for ages now but looking back over my earlier efforts, the boxes with a lot of bare polished metal on display suffered from this "peeling" or flaking that Mat describes.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/l3nlqrdzr/IMG_20180721_121645.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/l3nlqrdzr/)
My reverse etches on the other hand (with more etched and painted surface area than bare polished metal) have held up really well.
(https://s15.postimg.cc/cmo3fu1l3/IMG_20180721_122414.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cmo3fu1l3/)
I get that the clear coat needs something to grip and that aluminium polished up to 2500 grit isn't really the ideal painting surface, which would explain why my reverse etches and painted boxes hold up really well. There must be something we're missing here, surely you don't all just leave your beautiful etches naked?
Quote from: slashandburn on July 21, 2018, 07:25:41 AM
surely you don't all just leave your beautiful etches naked?
I just leave them naked, although mine aren't beautiful :icon_lol:. A friend who works painting cars did a clear coat on one of my boxes about 2 years ago and everything's fine until now. Don't know the method he used.
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on July 21, 2018, 10:55:08 AM
Quote from: slashandburn on July 21, 2018, 07:25:41 AM
surely you don't all just leave your beautiful etches naked?
I just leave them naked, although mine aren't beautiful :icon_lol:. A friend who works painting cars did a clear coat on one of my boxes about 2 years ago and everything's fine until now. Don't know the method he used.
+1
I just leave mine naked too. I figure they will get scuffed up and chipped. Leaving them naked makes them easy to clean up with a piece of steel wool!
Your buddy probably used automotive clear coat-- a lot tougher and sticks better than shelf-bought spray bombs!!
MC
Good to know! I'm attempting my first enclosure etch in about 2 years so hopefully I'll finally have something else to share on this thread. I might leave it au-naturale this time and see how ot stands the test of time.
And what caustic soda do you use? Here in my country it's nos allowed to buy it without a permsiom >:(. I can only get one liquid with 40% or so, or some pearls with around 28% of concentration. Can I still grt good results? I cant't even buy acetone to clean the pedals >:(. Sory. I know this is not the place to ask questions but I'm trying to get good results like the ones I see in you pictures.
Quote from: DeusM on July 23, 2018, 06:00:14 PM
And what caustic soda do you use? Here in my country it's nos allowed to buy it without a permsiom >:(. I can only get one liquid with 40% or so, or some pearls with around 28% of concentration. Can I still grt good results? I cant't even buy acetone to clean the pedals >:(. Sory. I know this is not the place to ask questions but I'm trying to get good results like the ones I see in you pictures.
You can also use acid. (I do). "Pool supply" acid called muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) can be used too...
MC
Quote
You can also use acid. (I do). "Pool supply" acid called muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) can be used too...
MC
The problem I think is that it starts to loose efectiveness. You have to sumerge it. Seems more complicated for me.
Quote from: DeusM on July 23, 2018, 06:58:03 PM
Quote
You can also use acid. (I do). "Pool supply" acid called muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) can be used too...
MC
The problem I think is that it starts to loose efectiveness. You have to sumerge it. Seems more complicated for me.
Sort of... you "dip" it... I just mask off the enclosure with blue masking tape (the sides). Takes about 2 1/2 minutes.. I dip it 30 seconds at a time, then rinse, and clean... repeat...
I use a mixture of 1:1:1
Acid, water, 40% hydrogen peroxide
The peroxide comes from the beauty supply house (girls use it to bleach their hair).
If you can't get the peroxide, you can go it without it. Approximately 50/50 I would think. Anyway.. if you are interested, I know there are other posts in the forum discussing it. I was just letting you know there is an easy alternative to caustic soda.
MC
I'll try that Mark. I read it works good to and leaves a well defined etch. My question is if it's pool water why the reaction with the water? I know it's hydrogen peroxide but I read some guy just uses water. Its the same as HCL right?
Quote from: DeusM on July 23, 2018, 10:52:56 PM
I'll try that Mark. I read it works good to and leaves a well defined etch. My question is if it's pool water why the reaction with the water? I know it's hydrogen peroxide but I read some guy just uses water. Its the same as HCL right?
HCl == hydrochloric acid. Hydrogen peroxide == H2O2.
I might be wrong, but the main etchant is HCl, while H2O2 just burns reaction products off the surface so that aluminium chloride doesn't create crust on it. If that's the case, you can do without peroxide, just won't be as effective.
Wear gloves, work outside. This solution sounds like perfect mix to destroy your skin/clothes/carpet.
...
(funnily enough, regular water is hydrogen monoxide, H2O. With time, peroxide breaks into water and oxygen, loosing it's punch)
Dihydrogen monoxide. Scary stuff! (http://www.dhmo.org/facts.html)
Yes. So the solution is HCL plus H2H2 right? I have some ferric but its lossing its punch. I read that this solutoon works for a long time and its not that bad for the enviroment. Im
heads up UK sanding guys...
i discovered some great cheap sturdy long lasting sanding paper from B&Q.
a 5 metre roll of 'oakey' abrasive paper now named ' norton expert'
grade 60. rips the top surface off the enclosure really easily...and gets it properly flat (using a block)
i used the same piece in a block to do 6 x 1590BB enclosure tops, and it still looks as good as new
no clogging, and use dry too.... 8.50 for 5 metres. grab some...
i was using single sheet, crappy stuff, and it was hard work, this stuff is a breeze...
and gets that brushed look very nicely...and will take toner easily too.
no more single sheet crap for me.... :)
Green one yeh?
Yep thats it....
Ok, only I'm in B&Q now . Yup, got it
Cool...its great stuff ...
Good timing. I've got a couple of DD's to prepare :)
Great...yeah i had 5 well rough 1590bbs....not now.
5 metres will last a long time. Proper thick quality paper..
Have fun..
Quick question... though this particular experiment took place more than a year ago.
I masked this Al enclosure (https://www.tme.eu/en/details/alu-bs23/multipurpose-enclosures/gainta/bs23/) using laser printer transfer and
> after testing a quick etch (permanent marker as resist) on the back of the cap, which I deemed fine, I used the following technique:
- scrubbed the surface with (plastic) abrasive sponge: needed for transfer;
- after trying my best to remove the paper fibers after transfer, I dabbed the surface with FeCl3 using a sponge, replenishing the reactant constantly.
- even after the time that would be sufficient for etching a PCB I did not observe any significant bevel, but the exposed surface looked like rust, even after a thorough rinse with water.
- sanded the surface with fine sandpaper (1000-ish) and some days after oiled it after I noticed rust forming again. It hasn't rusted thus far.
So this is what turned out: looks to me less like an etch and more like penetration of Fe atoms maybe?
(https://s8.postimg.cc/pcgxtgtb5/MG_5676.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/pcgxtgtb5/)
I may have taken that picture enthusiastically before oiling.
What was the question? I've seen deep etches through simple immersion in FeCl3, and the sponge technique is supposed to be more aggressive, so what gives?! Not that I'm complaining, I like the way it turned out, but I'd like to understand the process for the sake of consistency.
Just do the etching process over and over until you get the depth you want. Just remember to wait for the enclosure to cool down when it becames hot or the toner will start to be removed from the enclosure. Also, rinse with water from time to time to remove the metal that's been corroded. I usually do both things at the same time, when the enclosure starts to turn a little bit hot, I rinse it with water.
Btw, your etch looks amazing!
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on August 22, 2018, 07:55:52 PM
Just do the etching process over and over until you get the depth you want. Just remember to wait for the enclosure to cool down when it becames hot or the toner will start to be removed from the enclosure. Also, rinse with water from time to time to remove the metal that's been corroded. I usually do both things at the same time, when the enclosure starts to turn a little bit hot, I rinse it with water.
Btw, your etch looks amazing!
+1
You just have to develop a technique that works. I use a mixture of HCL acid... I found that 2 1/2 minutes is perfect. So, I do 5 baths of 30 seconds each... between each bath, I rinse with water, and scrub off the "gunk" lightly with a toothbrush between dunks.
When I started, I found I was OVER-etching, and my etches looked dirty (and pitted). It took some time to figure out where the sweet spot was.
My newest contraption---
Custom job/request.
It's a '67 PNP Dallas Arbiter Fuzz Face (detuned for bass)... feeding into a 3 band EQ... and then finally into a balance DI output.
Came out nice.
(Edit: That old school 20uF cap looks like an M-80!)
MC
(https://s33.postimg.cc/lyt61td5n/DRTop.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/lyt61td5n/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/y0ojvzwor/DRGut1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/y0ojvzwor/)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/q7xw41657/DRGut2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/q7xw41657/)
Quote from: bluebunny on August 31, 2018, 04:03:33 AM
Quote from: italianguy63 on August 30, 2018, 10:16:50 AM
Came out nice.
Sure did. :icon_cool:
Thanks Marc! A bit of a wiring nightmare (w/3 main boards).
The over-etch was purposely done.. guy wanted a gritty look to it..
MC
Quote from: italianguy63 on August 30, 2018, 10:16:50 AM
(https://s33.postimg.cc/y0ojvzwor/DRGut1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/y0ojvzwor/)
Which part is the crazy board that thinks it needs six trimmers?!?
Love the etch. Nice work.
T.
It is the EQ board.. adjusts the frequency and Q for each band.
Quote from: italianguy63 on September 01, 2018, 05:58:24 PM
It is the EQ board.. adjusts the frequency and Q for each band.
I see! That's a seriously flexible little PCB then! Nice.
T.
Quote from: ElectricDruid on September 03, 2018, 03:43:08 PM
Quote from: italianguy63 on September 01, 2018, 05:58:24 PM
It is the EQ board.. adjusts the frequency and Q for each band.
I see! That's a seriously flexible little PCB then! Nice.
T.
Yeah--
It came from TH Custom Effects (Germany). (Edit: Note some errata in the build docs. if you build one)... Check the work/math.
It is a 3 band EQ-- and depending on what resistors and caps you use, you can set the frequency points and the Q width.
It was what I needed since I needed this pedal Lo-tuned for a bass player.
MC
Wow, Some really good etchers out there :)
16th build of 2018. Lastgasp Art Laboratories Rattle Crow. I remember this one got some interest back in time, but then it was kinda forgotten. Reverse etch based on the original artwork.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PCb7fvfZ/rattlecrow.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCb7fvfZ)
17th build of 2018: Ugly Face, by Tim Escobedo. The sound of this one is just amazing.
(https://i.postimg.cc/grcNvSYw/ugly_face.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/grcNvSYw)
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on September 19, 2018, 05:23:13 PM
17th build of 2018
I'm still hoping to get my third build of the year done. :icon_razz:
Well, if I had finished all the builds I've started, I'd been at least on the 30th build of 18 :icon_lol:. This year is being productive, but I'll take a good break after I finish some projects to clear my head a little bit and do other stuff. Maybe 25 it's a cool number.
love the ufo graphic...cool. 8)
Not only small, but etched as well! 4 new liitle ones (two tall and two standard).
(https://i.postimg.cc/WbRy1rHf/1590a_etched.jpg)
Quote from: lars-musik on September 20, 2018, 07:07:15 AM
(https://i.postimg.cc/WbRy1rHf/1590a_etched.jpg)
Excellent builds, as always 8) One of my favorite things about your work is that I can tell it's your work just by looking. You have your own distinct style, and I dig it ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 20, 2018, 05:49:36 AM
love the ufo graphic...cool. 8)
The graphic was suggested by GiovannyS10. I ran out of ideas and he helped me with this one and the next one I'll finish. The artwork was supposed to have writings for the pots, but I got a bad transfer for two of them and ran out of dryfilm, so I decided to remove all the writings and just keep the graphic.
Lars' builds are amazing looking, as always!
(http://blog.soundcubed.com/images/Zound_Zkulptor_Booster.jpg)
My First attempt!
18th build of 2018. Shoot The Moon tremolo. I used a trimpot for the gain pot and added the ramp switch mod from the Tremulus Lune.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Tp4SH73d/shootthemoon.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Tp4SH73d)
Aloha! My contribution and first post here. :) A clone of EQDs the Depths. I'm inspired by all of the great etched enclosures I've seen here.
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0KY6QtR/CIMG1344.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0KY6QtR)
Welcome :) Killer build, really clean etch. Thanks for sharing ;D
The tubescreamer and the echo found a new home on a friend's pedalboard – and now I miss them.
Here's a photo of my newest etches before I ruin them (or rather give them the used, vintage look) by spray-painting and drilling.
They will be a Tubescreamer, Prince of Tone, Jon's Snow Day OD, Deep Blue Delay and Bockett Blue Note.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fL25TdMv/IMG_2504.jpg)
Quote from: lars-musik on October 01, 2018, 06:20:57 AM
The tubescreamer and the echo found a new home on a friend's pedalboard – and now I miss them.
Here's a photo of my newest etches before I ruin them (or rather give them the used, vintage look) by spray-painting and drilling.
They will be a Tubescreamer, Prince of Tone, Jon's Snow Day OD, Deep Blue Delay and Bockett Blue Note.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fL25TdMv/IMG_2504.jpg)
Really cool :)
How are you etching your enclosures?
Quote from: MJ_Sound_Cubed on October 02, 2018, 05:11:15 PM
How are you etching your enclosures?
Hey! After sanding the enclosures (not too much, 400 grain usually) I apply a coat of "Kontakt Positiv 20" UV resist, develope it according to the datasheet and etch it with 24% hydrocloric acid from the DIY Store. If you do this, assure good ventilation as the fumes are quite dangerous!!!
Shameless cross-post from the main pictures thread because I'm proud of how this turned out :P "Pre-Verb," my 6N16B tube-powered BTDR reverb, finally boxed up this weekend.
(https://i.imgur.com/N0PNam4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/voIPxlF.jpg)
Nice one!
How did you cut the small vents?
Quote from: thomasha on October 09, 2018, 02:45:09 AM
Nice one!
How did you cut the small vents?
Thanks :) I have a small (7" x 7") CNC machine that I use for the vents. Takes about 25 minutes and well worth the effort in my opinion ;D
Dr Boogie I did a while ago.
(https://scontent.fpoa17-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/45008492_10205535990797293_6908729176522489856_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent.fpoa17-1.fna&oh=1426712755053fba09f42be3fd275fde&oe=5C83BBDB)
been a busy bee.... 8)
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects for demos..
(https://i.postimg.cc/gnTxfYQx/20181029-075132.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KKXR80ZF/20181029-075147.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2kRWj2v/20181029-075212.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WDMtF03Z/20181029-075300.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/G4T4RWnq/20181029-075314.jpg)
Wanted to double-post this one because I'm excited ;D SMD/submini version of the Soldano Supercharger GTO.
(https://i.imgur.com/2HJOHGn.jpg)
Guts, top and bottom of the board:
(https://i.imgur.com/xrxFUMx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5dJfFyJ.jpg)
Wow! That's just amazing!
This one is really small!
With all that space you could use a 1590a!
It looks like that the only big parts you used are for the SMPS, I guess SMD is the way to go. Are you selling those boards?
Quote from: thomasha on October 30, 2018, 03:10:34 PM
This one is really small!
With all that space you could use a 1590a!
It looks like that the only big parts you used are for the SMPS, I guess SMD is the way to go. Are you selling those boards?
I was thinking about using 16mm pots, but the 9mm did let me keep it nice and small. I do 100% SMD designs for work and it's made me appreciate the space savings. Plus I like being able to fit just about anything comfortably into a 1590B, no 1590A's for me though ::)
And I guess if anyone wants a board I could sell them? I have 10 extras :P Plus I think this is the first board I've done that I didn't make a mistake on ::) Maybe I'll throw a For Sale post together when I get home to unload the ~50 surplus boards I have lying around.
Let me fix that for you.
Quote from: vigilante397 on October 30, 2018, 08:39:09 PM
Maybe Definitely I'll throw a For Sale post together when I get home to unload the ~50 surplus boards I have lying around.
;D
This one went wrong with the toner transfer, but I decided to go with it.
(https://scontent.fpoa17-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/45186549_10205552660614028_6512771339730812928_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fpoa17-1.fna&oh=fd916bc6dbc729c67b163fe406f593a2&oe=5C7BFC1F)
i think it suits it....happy accidents. 8)
I'm with Rob. I think that looks really cool. You just need to replace that nasty ol' white plastic footswitch washer with a tarnished brass one. :icon_cool:
Kudos on the switches holes and fitting too....nice. cool build man. 8)
+1 on the washer... :)
Another +1. That looks fabulous how it is.
If they'd not pointed out the damn washer, I wouldn't even have cared...I think maybe leave it on a sunny windowsill for a couple of months to get slightly yellowed. That would be enough.
T.
I really like it!
MC
Yeah! That really inspires me to put some love into my next build.
So great.
Quote from: bluebunny on October 31, 2018, 02:16:46 PM
I'm with Rob. I think that looks really cool. You just need to replace that nasty ol' white plastic footswitch washer with a tarnished brass one. :icon_cool:
Tarnished nickel-plated would be cool too. Yeah, embrace the rustic look, and tarnish the switch screw heads, F/S button, etc. FeCl on a Q-tip. Screws and such can be done "loose" and rinsed with water when done. For the F/S button, wipe off thoroughly after optimum results are achieved. Don't get FeCl down in the switch, obviously.
Actually, FeCl will also "yellow" the white indicator lines on the knobs too, if you want to go that far with it.
Or you can just wait a few decades.
I never thought about buying new washers to replace the FS ones, thats something I will definitely try. I have some spare knobs too, so I will also try to "yellow" them with FeCl. Thanks for the tips guys.
Any one here ever done much with salt water etching?
Just had a play with an old, folded aluminium box and wondering if I was expecting too much:
(https://preview.ibb.co/jJvy2f/box1.jpg)
(big versh here if interested: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/b2/16/f1/b216f17d6668b90995eef3ede1e860aa.jpg
I just scribbled the design on with a paint marker and left it for 10 mins in a salt water bath (wired up to a 12V 2A supply). The -ve connection was bubbling away but not much seemed to be happening on the box so I left it for a bit (ie. got distracted and forgot about it for an hour...). So this was the result after a light wire wool buffing (yeah, scratched the unetched detail...)
I really like the texture of the etched metal but thought it would be deeper, you can just about catch the raised bits with your finger nail. I did slip up in that the bit of scrap I used wasn't aluminium as I first thought, I guess it was galvanised steel, wonder if that mnakes a big difference?
Anyway, I like the general feel of it so will play some more.
Quote from: michelterres on October 31, 2018, 10:07:35 AM
This one went wrong with the toner transfer, but I decided to go with it.
(https://scontent.fpoa17-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/45186549_10205552660614028_6512771339730812928_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent.fpoa17-1.fna&oh=fd916bc6dbc729c67b163fe406f593a2&oe=5C7BFC1F)
Gun Metal Bluing works great for aging steel parts like the switch screws the stompbox switch's nut, top of the plunger, jack hardware, washers etc. That or a propane torch but watch out on the stompswitch nut, melted a few of those, Neutrik/Switchcraft, jack nuts can take the heat, heat thn to blue no problem.
have had great results with this product.
(http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/Woodworking/Finishing/56z2911s1.jpg)
I think the etch looks great the way it turned out, about perfect the way it looks.
dave
Finished this one recently. My very first etch (after countless woes with "heatless" toner transfer):
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFdG3Yp7/DSCN2444.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFdG3Yp7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2dxyTZz/DSCN2455.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2dxyTZz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bdvzxRC3/DSCN2443.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdvzxRC3)
Quote from: diffeq on November 23, 2018, 06:19:43 AM
Finished this one recently. My very first etch (after countless woes with "heatless" toner transfer):
(https://i.postimg.cc/QFdG3Yp7/DSCN2444.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFdG3Yp7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2dxyTZz/DSCN2455.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2dxyTZz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bdvzxRC3/DSCN2443.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdvzxRC3)
Awesome! Great outcome.
It takes a lot of patience to get them to come out that clean!
MC
Diffeq, really nice etch and really nice pedal. Which layout have you used for the board?
Quote from: italianguy63 on November 23, 2018, 06:30:18 AM
Awesome! Great outcome.
It takes a lot of patience to get them to come out that clean!
MC
Thanks, Mark! I'll get a proper sanding block next time, following yours and Deadastronaut' advice. Still a long way to go till I'll manage to etch more complex and detailed graphics.
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on November 23, 2018, 09:23:07 AM
Diffeq, really nice etch and really nice pedal. Which layout have you used for the board?
Thanks. I've made my own layout and had PCB fabbed, quite a while ago. Was my first layout back then.
came out great... 8) 8) 8)
Made a wave and lighthouse etch to my latest ultra flanger build, it looks kind of dark, I should have seen that before inverting the colors.
(https://i.imgur.com/OclwBAHl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1B4wl4Ll.jpg)
I guess I don't need all the detail of that etch anyway, it is difficult to see anything as small as 1mm in an inverted etch. With the LED it looks cool, it flashes with the LFO too.
Pre-Christmas relaxation excercise. A Chunk Brown Dog Fuzz in a largely oversized 1550B!
(https://i.postimg.cc/hG6gqGKL/BRWNFZZ-II.jpg)
Quote from: lars-musik on December 17, 2018, 07:10:27 AM
(https://i.postimg.cc/hG6gqGKL/BRWNFZZ-II.jpg)
It's a little oitside your usual style, but holy hell I love it. Absolutely beautiful etch.
What's the 3rd jack, expression pedal?
Those perfect lines :o. Don't know if I asked you on this, but what do you use for the transfers? Tone transfer, dryfilm?
Excellent etch Lars, cool design and paint fade!
dave
Quote from: vigilante397 on December 17, 2018, 12:10:48 PM
It's a little oitside your usual style, but holy hell I love it. Absolutely beautiful etch.
Really? It is just too large. But the PCB is designed for 1590A use (built this for someone else though and he wanted that gigantic enclosure).
Quote from: thermionix on December 17, 2018, 02:01:44 PM
What's the 3rd jack, expression pedal?
No it is a dry output to connect this fuzz to the corresponding envelope filter (see here: https://youtu.be/BgjtX5GmonE?t=484).
Quote from: Marcos - Munky on December 17, 2018, 05:18:20 PM
Those perfect lines :o. Don't know if I asked you on this, but what do you use for the transfers? Tone transfer, dryfilm?
I'm sure did describe it once or twice somewhere here. I use a UV etch mask that is sprac painted on the enclosure (called "KONTAKT POSITIV 20") and etch with hydrochlric acid. It does not come out so neat all the times but I am getting better at it, The trickiest part is to apply the UV spray evenly, the rest is very similiar to pcb etching.
Quote from: davent on December 17, 2018, 06:27:08 PM
Excellent etch Lars, cool design and paint fade!
Thanks!
Lars, what are you using as an etching solution? your etch seems rather deep, but relatively clean
i tried NaOH and Fe3Cl but i can't get a very deep etch without drastically losing etch quality
Quote from: baklavametal on December 19, 2018, 11:00:36 AM
Lars, what are you using as an etching solution?
For that particular etch I used old (meaning often used) HCl (as stated above, hydrochloric acid), 27% from the DIY store. For the first uses I added some hydrogen peroxide from the aquaristic department of said DIY store but since about a year I simply re-use the blackened soup again.
I think the temperature is key here: too cold and it will take too long and ruin the etch mask, too hot and the stuff gets really vicious. Keep in mind that the reaction is exothermic and will generate more heat on the surface.
Something else:
THE FUMES ARE MOST DANGEROUS!
Really, really. Like lung-eating dangerous. I do the etching under a fume hood in lab coat, security glasses and all. (Have a look here: https://melscience.com/en/articles/how-hydrochloric-acid-reacts-aluminum-formulas-and/)
But you'll get absolutely identical results with FeCl3 (again mind the temperature AND the reaction AND the gases).
Here is my first attempt at an etched enclosure. I rushed the process a bit as the results clearly show. I'm still working on getting a clean toner transfer.. this was the best of several attempts. I etched with naoh, but out of caution I mixed it pretty weak and the toner started coming loose before the etch was deep enough. I then sanded through the paint in a couple of spots, didn't sand straight, and then boogered up the final clearcoat in a few spots. Overall it's good enough for my pedalboard and I learned a lot in the process. Hopefully my future posts will be more worthy of this thread. Thanks to all that have shared their tips and tricks. Cheers!
(https://i.postimg.cc/S26x5Cjh/blend-loop2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S26x5Cjh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3yg4Gdmd/blend-loop1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3yg4Gdmd)
Can't see the images.
My pics should be visible now, my bad.
Quote from: masonsjax on December 24, 2018, 01:55:27 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/S26x5Cjh/blend-loop2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S26x5Cjh)
I wish I could find the pics of my first etch, so everyone else realizes how amazing their first etches are ::) Really excellent stuff. 8)
.... and, masonsjax, welcome to the forum.
it's always good to get all yer fckups in one place, instead of spreading them evenly over all your builds, innit.
21th build of 2018. It's an EP Booster with internal charge pump.
(https://i.postimg.cc/D8thPBBc/epbooster.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8thPBBc)
Actually it's 1996 right now. Today I built a whisker biscuit fuzz in a tuna can to give to a friend, just need to put the knobs and it's done :icon_mrgreen:
So my second attempt at etching went much better. I think I've finally nailed my toner transfer process. The detail in the graphic was pretty ambitious, maybe not the best choice of artwork, but it came out better than I expected. It's still not as deep as I would like, so I'll probably mix a little stronger batch of lye next time. Also I'll spray some clear on this after it's drilled, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zV0Sd0fT/blend-loop3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zV0Sd0fT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hzDt3bv7/blend-loop4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzDt3bv7)
my latest, astro cab sim. finished up last night.... 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Whh64wwT/20190116-173848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Whh64wwT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/F1FVM4ff/20190116-180634.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F1FVM4ff)
(https://i.postimg.cc/47PbY80N/20190116-180808.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47PbY80N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8xC0ZcF/20190116-180842.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8xC0ZcF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDPtMN90/20190116-181029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDPtMN90)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ygsyYqvb/20190116-181105.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygsyYqvb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8WCkPDs/20190116-181223.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8WCkPDs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PPxKwjTG/20190116-181306.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PPxKwjTG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZBwpbW9W/20190116-181353.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBwpbW9W)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YLjghtgb/20190116-181405.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YLjghtgb)
Quote from: masonsjax on December 28, 2018, 11:08:14 PM
So my second attempt at etching went much better. I think I've finally nailed my toner transfer process. The detail in the graphic was pretty ambitious, maybe not the best choice of artwork, but it came out better than I expected. It's still not as deep as I would like, so I'll probably mix a little stronger batch of lye next time. Also I'll spray some clear on this after it's drilled, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zV0Sd0fT/blend-loop3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zV0Sd0fT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hzDt3bv7/blend-loop4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hzDt3bv7)
It's hard to do "greyscale" type images.
Nice job!
MC
Quote from: deadastronaut on January 17, 2019, 06:37:37 AM
my latest, astro cab sim. finished up last night.... 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Whh64wwT/20190116-173848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Whh64wwT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDPtMN90/20190116-181029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDPtMN90)
Hi deadastronaut! Really nice pedal, as usually ;D.
I started a thread here: https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=121750.0
I need some advice to use for the first time XLR jacks. Maybe you could help me, please? ;)
done :)
That's a clone of the EQD Disaster Transport Jr, but with a slightly different Input arrangement for less noise.
The etch didn't come out as clean as many others here but I like it. This time I tried to coat everything with some epoxy we use in our volcanology lab at work, but unfortunately the epoxy got a bit dull and moved away from the edges in some places. I should have left it without the Epoxy. However, I still like it :-)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rRVvQYqH/IMG-20181222-233009.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRVvQYqH)
looks cool......even when people say 'it didnt come out to well''
they have their own unique look about them. 8) 8) 8)
sometimes an imperfect etch suits it....its all good. 8)
My first 1590LB build
(https://i.imgur.com/r5JZOOkl.jpg)
and the final result
(https://i.imgur.com/RcFFHWdl.jpg?1)
Quote from: thomasha on February 13, 2019, 05:38:21 PM
My first 1590LB build
(https://i.imgur.com/r5JZOOkl.jpg)
and the final result
(https://i.imgur.com/RcFFHWdl.jpg)
You've got too many tags around that second pic link (fixed in the above quote).
More importantly:
1. What is it?
2. How do we know the box isn't empty, other than the supposed jacks and pots? :icon_razz:
Quote from: thomasha on February 13, 2019, 05:38:21 PM
My first 1590LB build
(https://i.imgur.com/r5JZOOkl.jpg)
Nice etch, and more importantly, great lighting! Picks out the relief of the etch beautifully. :icon_cool:
Quote from: EBK on February 13, 2019, 08:26:56 PM
More importantly:
1. What is it?
2. How do we know the box isn't empty, other than the supposed jacks and pots? :icon_razz:
Thomas had posted this one on a brazilian forum yesterday. It's a Gus Smalley's Octave Up Sick Box.
(https://i.imgur.com/is1zBc3l.jpg)
Quote from: thomasha on February 13, 2019, 05:38:21 PM
My first 1590LB build
(https://i.imgur.com/RcFFHWdl.jpg?1)
That's really nice. I like browsing through those public domain libraries of old illustrations like this, so much great source material.
I'm a big fan of these kind of illustrations as you can see
I made a video of the pedal to show how it sounds when playing chords in the octave mode
finished up another dreamtime delay.....
(https://i.postimg.cc/4K5C6njG/20190325-163748.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4K5C6njG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/64TN5wjX/20190325-164515.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/64TN5wjX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hrb1L62V/20190325-164528.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Hrb1L62V)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NLPcC9Ff/20190325-164537.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NLPcC9Ff)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8j2VD2L2/20190325-164547.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8j2VD2L2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jCjThQsF/20190325-164559.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCjThQsF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bsDj7yS0/20190325-164605.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsDj7yS0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/B8s9P2YN/20190325-164623.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B8s9P2YN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CBPW2XF6/20190325-164627.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBPW2XF6)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 25, 2019, 01:09:46 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/64TN5wjX/20190325-164515.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/64TN5wjX)
So attractive I had to come and like it in both threads 8) Excellent work as always. ;D
ha ha , cheers nathan... 8) 8) 8)
Yeah, nice one, Rob. Reminds me a little of this:
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/5/59/The_Cult_Love.jpg/220px-The_Cult_Love.jpg)
Long time nothing built or posted. So here's a new duo (Chunk Systems Brown Fuzz and Agent00Funk).
Reallly nice with the envelope interconnection.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFb9GxW7/FNKY-FZZZ.jpg)
is that your finger print ;D 8)
Quote from: lars-musik on March 26, 2019, 01:12:11 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFb9GxW7/FNKY-FZZZ.jpg)
Amazing work, as always 8) I've always really admired your style ;D
Wow, it's me again. I don't feel so terribly productive but the last post was mine, too....
But here it is: my finest etch ever. As you can see, a triple pedal: Catalinbread VarioBoost (first or last switchable), Klon, BB Preamp (or rather Fluxdrive).
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYdQ3CNr/Triple-2019.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GpFsY1H9/Michi-Triple-detail.jpg)
Even the small lettering for the frequency scale came out, I am astonished myself.
looks great man...youve deffo nailed etching.... 8) 8) 8)
i did an etch yesterday, and made a slow etch mixture to keep the fine details....takes longer but worth it.
...what my esteemed colleague from Mottingham said! :icon_cool:
Thanks!
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 30, 2019, 09:13:48 AM
and made a slow etch mixture to keep the fine details....takes longer but worth it.
That's strange, because since a few etches I take the opposite route - I heat my HCl+H2O2 mixture and quicken the etch, so I don't underetch. Mind you, I do it under a fume hood, because the gases are quite dangerous. This one took about five minutes and is relatively deep.
im still on the ferric......the last etch i did was quite fierce, so i mixed it back a little
different boxes, different mixtures of metals..etc.
Quote from: lars-musik on March 26, 2019, 05:17:11 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 26, 2019, 01:15:32 PM
is that your finger print ;D 8)
.
No, it's Sean Connery's
If you want to go full Connery you should label the controls Shquelch, Shweep, Shmooth...
Quote from: lars-musik on April 30, 2019, 09:09:27 AM
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYdQ3CNr/Triple-2019.jpg)x
This is stunning! If i had a hat, i'd take it off sir!
Quote from: patrick398 on April 30, 2019, 10:15:51 AM
If you want to go full Connery you should label the controls Shquelch, Shweep, Shmooth...
I laughed and then realised I'm German and did not get it. Merde. Need to see the movies in English again.
Quote from: lars-musik on April 30, 2019, 10:43:33 AM
Need to see the movies in English again.
Yesh you do. ;)
Quote from: lars-musik on April 30, 2019, 10:43:33 AM
Quote from: patrick398 on April 30, 2019, 10:15:51 AM
If you want to go full Connery you should label the controls Shquelch, Shweep, Shmooth...
I laughed and then realised I'm German and did not get it. Merde. Need to see the movies in English again.
This tells you everything you need to know...and more.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eK-GlsF-Ew
Quite frankly it's one of the strangest things i've ever watched on youtube, and that's saying something.
Quote from: lars-musik on April 30, 2019, 09:09:27 AM
But here it is: my finest etch ever.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYdQ3CNr/Triple-2019.jpg)
And frankly that's a very high bar, as every single one of your etches is excellent. But I have to agree, you really outdid yourself on this one :icon_eek:
That is an unbelivable etch! and only took 5 minutes?
Quote from: lars-musik on April 30, 2019, 09:09:27 AM
Wow, it's me again. I don't feel so terribly productive but the last post was mine, too....
But here it is: my finest etch ever. As you can see, a triple pedal: Catalinbread VarioBoost (first or last switchable), Klon, BB Preamp (or rather Fluxdrive).
(https://i.postimg.cc/GpFsY1H9/Michi-Triple-detail.jpg)
Even the small lettering for the frequency scale came out, I am astonished myself.
Damn that detail is astounding!
I've only done one etch so far... seeing works like this is motivating.
my latest build.....the headlights light up as you play...clipping diodes. 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nMRvjQ1d/20190429-182817.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nMRvjQ1d)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yWYm8T0g/20190429-182829.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yWYm8T0g)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bDqQbxM5/20190430-113504.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDqQbxM5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/r0g59d2w/20190430-113516.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0g59d2w)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rd11KnhW/20190430-113622.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rd11KnhW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/y3dcpV7X/20190430-113633.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y3dcpV7X)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KKS7cS5x/20190430-113650.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKS7cS5x)
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 01, 2019, 09:27:16 AM
the headlights light up as you play
And you didn't want to show us pics of that? :-[ Great-looking build though, I always love your etches. 8)
Guys, your etches are getting better and better!
My first one was great but it's been fast downhill since :-\
Quote from: vigilante397 on May 01, 2019, 11:16:31 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on May 01, 2019, 09:27:16 AM
the headlights light up as you play
And you didn't want to show us pics of that? :-[
No guitar plugged in, in any of those shots. :icon_frown:
However, knowing Rob's skills with light-shows, I'm sure he could rig something up that goes off automatically when the input jack is empty. :icon_biggrin:
i'm working on it....ha ha.
funny ive been playing a lot with solar light stuff lately...
running an attiny with neopixel leds....which are really nice...
each led programmable etc...
i have a set of warm white leds, and a strip of neopixels, (doing a rainbow pattern)
charging up during the day, and come on auto or not at night....really cool.
also working on a good solar phone/tablet charger too after cracking open an old laptop battery to find 6 nice 18650 batts in there.......solar>into 4650 charge module..into batt....then out to a poundland usb charge circuit... ;D ...im sustainable lol.... ;D
Here's an electro-etch I did. Didn't come out perfect, but I'm happy with it for my first time!
It's a Shin-Ei FY-2 clone with a tone knob (really a mid control).
(https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNmsAI5qm36CZMgIU5b7vJVgF_URZKYogvzYfpfmdXNvfPvcBpqbw2XtNLXcpZ4vA/photo/AF1QipNxG_THncSquystMwCF4nzMKCkiiG46x-GU7KpR?key=QjFmZTdKalZmR01fUExuclNJMDNGeHllNU9MLWxn)
(https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNmsAI5qm36CZMgIU5b7vJVgF_URZKYogvzYfpfmdXNvfPvcBpqbw2XtNLXcpZ4vA/photo/AF1QipO5P5DxICeThGD-10rvx5cqQmN0sizhHGnc7VsT?key=QjFmZTdKalZmR01fUExuclNJMDNGeHllNU9MLWxn)
(https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNmsAI5qm36CZMgIU5b7vJVgF_URZKYogvzYfpfmdXNvfPvcBpqbw2XtNLXcpZ4vA/photo/AF1QipMvc3vUkAFe5LZwJeOm9qEmWAWH3bR1NPslBK4S?key=QjFmZTdKalZmR01fUExuclNJMDNGeHllNU9MLWxn)
(https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNmsAI5qm36CZMgIU5b7vJVgF_URZKYogvzYfpfmdXNvfPvcBpqbw2XtNLXcpZ4vA/photo/AF1QipPchl9pbRmPIbM8DRrz0h5gHwOGmzQOVlLOgloO?key=QjFmZTdKalZmR01fUExuclNJMDNGeHllNU9MLWxn)
(https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNmsAI5qm36CZMgIU5b7vJVgF_URZKYogvzYfpfmdXNvfPvcBpqbw2XtNLXcpZ4vA/photo/AF1QipOEoQK2bXCWjg0xV6zlett53RZ7OouTa-knC-UM?key=QjFmZTdKalZmR01fUExuclNJMDNGeHllNU9MLWxn)
(https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNmsAI5qm36CZMgIU5b7vJVgF_URZKYogvzYfpfmdXNvfPvcBpqbw2XtNLXcpZ4vA/photo/AF1QipOY0M1qqTrT6eHW1o56XceqqsNbEb11YbX9bALQ?key=QjFmZTdKalZmR01fUExuclNJMDNGeHllNU9MLWxn)
EDIT: it seems that the photos are not showing up correctly. Here's the google photos link:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNmsAI5qm36CZMgIU5b7vJVgF_URZKYogvzYfpfmdXNvfPvcBpqbw2XtNLXcpZ4vA?key=QjFmZTdKalZmR01fUExuclNJMDNGeHllNU9MLWxn
Quote from: Bricksnbeatles on May 07, 2019, 03:26:29 PM
EDIT: it seems that the photos are not showing up correctly.
Image links need to be to actual pictures (so usually ending in .jpg or .png or similar). Here's one I managed to get from your Google photo by clicking on the thumbnail:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RhVjIL1sDYICmPx7Q5WhibJ34N5Imcy7fzRRzbH-5kogmmtHqPJAX6MtQ0ohigWKOKCTATVqhy7O2WLd0X8ggKs03pYrCS7-GFFjI9epuU9NjPFXGUHU75LjbzepiBhdeJ_jWMwxL23V3EeK_QucA-6DxY-hDT-0hgnkYEJ-mGonNg6_55BQC7ycte83d7vOZ00j79RSTd8Qn_V7Fiw5UnlgnQlCwl7tAWP_gcs6UShkLdE-WRbFBCP7zlZBDaM-u2vaJPMyjIsPVkHEKee5G-vzZscD1Det3m7I0uy7mYpUDhLvUSrfJdJkARcVTj_Dwbbx2JgW2OfXRrKlrfHN5oTqmsW6hXUqEK4xJc0jiyoznaiPMVBwEn17VCHRQxdwD1S_gn8ywinpIX6PwF3XvCWRpuPWzLDXp1UyY0DUJ48YrqyXhmr3sdfD7dzbGfdmoKN825xyIAJZluLDqLgc5S1_oS99iBnEvFSeHTySRnbexpjo5I1M5MOjI--GgsyKpNf2v9i_Bw21O-Tzcl4Dm-GcIyO-H4xnOc4SY99uDGHV3hBKMn8Rv3ycBA7qTxAyfUbFg66ZOF5Vq4wSXKt2jVjKObcVYLDGnLLKk4bb-9aIdPS_J_cozLt8TALbF_9F9CXgOQxetl5yNJVbmB7REAUQvNlvp8BygR7InMJPFQjFkgS-ZVvs0jD6weR7YHIasdjNQn64IJNddrJy2QpsuyF1=w666-h888-no)
Or just use something like imgur.com for your pictures. It's easy and free and gives you exactly the IMG tags you need to embed here.
BTW, nice build. 8)
Quote from: bluebunny on May 08, 2019, 02:49:12 AM
Quote from: Bricksnbeatles on May 07, 2019, 03:26:29 PM
EDIT: it seems that the photos are not showing up correctly.
Image links need to be to actual pictures (so usually ending in .jpg or .png or similar). Here's one I managed to get from your Google photo by clicking on the thumbnail:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RhVjIL1sDYICmPx7Q5WhibJ34N5Imcy7fzRRzbH-5kogmmtHqPJAX6MtQ0ohigWKOKCTATVqhy7O2WLd0X8ggKs03pYrCS7-GFFjI9epuU9NjPFXGUHU75LjbzepiBhdeJ_jWMwxL23V3EeK_QucA-6DxY-hDT-0hgnkYEJ-mGonNg6_55BQC7ycte83d7vOZ00j79RSTd8Qn_V7Fiw5UnlgnQlCwl7tAWP_gcs6UShkLdE-WRbFBCP7zlZBDaM-u2vaJPMyjIsPVkHEKee5G-vzZscD1Det3m7I0uy7mYpUDhLvUSrfJdJkARcVTj_Dwbbx2JgW2OfXRrKlrfHN5oTqmsW6hXUqEK4xJc0jiyoznaiPMVBwEn17VCHRQxdwD1S_gn8ywinpIX6PwF3XvCWRpuPWzLDXp1UyY0DUJ48YrqyXhmr3sdfD7dzbGfdmoKN825xyIAJZluLDqLgc5S1_oS99iBnEvFSeHTySRnbexpjo5I1M5MOjI--GgsyKpNf2v9i_Bw21O-Tzcl4Dm-GcIyO-H4xnOc4SY99uDGHV3hBKMn8Rv3ycBA7qTxAyfUbFg66ZOF5Vq4wSXKt2jVjKObcVYLDGnLLKk4bb-9aIdPS_J_cozLt8TALbF_9F9CXgOQxetl5yNJVbmB7REAUQvNlvp8BygR7InMJPFQjFkgS-ZVvs0jD6weR7YHIasdjNQn64IJNddrJy2QpsuyF1=w666-h888-no)
Or just use something like imgur.com for your pictures. It's easy and free and gives you exactly the IMG tags you need to embed here.
BTW, nice build. 8)
Thanks for the heads up! And thanks for the compliment!
Really nice work everyone. I really dig Deadastrnaut's latest. :) Looks like the front end of a '57 Chevy Bel Air if I'm not mistaken. I made one last year of the tail end of '57 Ford Fairlane. A clone of a CreamPuff inside. Keep up the great work everyone!
(https://i.postimg.cc/GBRpyhMV/CIMG1503.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBRpyhMV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/67hpLJg3/CIMG1508.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67hpLJg3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/njcc3Sf1/CIMG1512.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njcc3Sf1)
Here's are a few pics of a more recent enclosure I've completed.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zyyJHHSx/CIMG1683.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zyyJHHSx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8FWNt8YW/CIMG1689.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FWNt8YW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cgSZz9qz/CIMG1690.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cgSZz9qz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nC72F0N2/CIMG1700.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nC72F0N2)
cool, love the back end of the car man, the bezels look great on the back lights....nice. 8)
Hi.
Some works in progress. They get cleaner but I still have hard times getting deep enough etch before the Naoh begins to eat the toner.
- Earthquaker devices disaster transport jr
- Deadastronaut Chasm reverb
- A very modified big muff (hommage to the supercollider)
(https://i.postimg.cc/G9vXWq1r/20190714-113718-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9vXWq1r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3dnVqngN/20190713-164412-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3dnVqngN)
Quote from: lars-musik on March 26, 2019, 01:12:11 PM
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFb9GxW7/FNKY-FZZZ.jpg)
Hi Lars, I was wondering if you'd be willing or if you have guts shots of those boxes? I have the same kind I believe, and I'm having a bit of trouble getting the jacks and controls so close together. Or perhaps you can just tell me where you get those wonderful jacks. :)
Quote from: auden100 on July 17, 2019, 06:54:51 AM
I was wondering if you'd be willing or if you have guts shots of those boxes?
Sure. Unfortunately I gave the Fuzz away without taking any gutshots (the layout was for a 1590a, so there was a lot of wiring going on), but I found one of the envelope filter.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kgCLHDtV/DSC-0408.jpg)
The jacks are Lumbergs, I buy them here:
https://www.musikding.de/63mm-Mono-jack-Lumberg
It is always a bit crammy, so be sure to have your Dremel ready to make the jacks fit!
Best regards, Lars
+1 for Lumberg jacks. The most jack in the minimum space!
I've got a few in a bag waiting for the perfect moment, but it hasn't arrived thus far, but I know it will come! ;)
Nothing real fancy.. but, it gets the job done!! Newest build.
1590B GDMC! Banshee (Tube Screamer TS-808).
Sounds great!!
MC
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZbkSqBh/Banshee.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZbkSqBh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/V5DggcnC/Banshee-PCB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5DggcnC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HJw4yGTj/BansheeT.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJw4yGTj)
cool, came out great man........ 8)
Quote from: italianguy63 on August 14, 2019, 11:44:37 AM
Nothing real fancy.. but, it gets the job done!! Newest build.
1590B GDMC! Banshee (Tube Screamer TS-808).
Sounds great!!
MC
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZbkSqBh/Banshee.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZbkSqBh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/V5DggcnC/Banshee-PCB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5DggcnC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HJw4yGTj/BansheeT.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJw4yGTj)
LOL! Note piece of solder slag under pin 5 of the OPAMP. Obviously the camera sees far better than me!
Fixed.
MC
My first attempt to fill an etched area with glitter paint. Still a ways to go before I improve this process.
(https://i.postimg.cc/svtv9p3B/CIMG2372.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svtv9p3B)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TLF6MJ7g/CIMG2364.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLF6MJ7g)
cool....came out great. 8)
Quote from: 125Signal on September 07, 2019, 07:53:41 PM
My first attempt to fill an etched area with glitter paint. Still a ways to go before I improve this process.
(https://i.postimg.cc/svtv9p3B/CIMG2372.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svtv9p3B)
Holy hell I love it. I would definitely like to see your next attempts as well 8)
hi guys, whilst searching around online for stuff i came across ''thermal toner transfer '' paper....
anyone tried it?.....used it?....its yellow, and very cheap . just curious.
i have no complaints with my efforts, but just wondered. 8)
custom jobby for an yngwie fan........
(https://i.postimg.cc/06d28r7Z/20200105-143121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06d28r7Z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wtdj8DR7/20200105-143209.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtdj8DR7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZqR7y5b/20200105-143227.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZqR7y5b)
Guys,
How do you add contrast on your etchings?
I use the electrolytic method since it is easy and I do not need special ingredients.
But after cleaning there is barely any color difference in the design, any tips or tricks?
I tried this one with spraying black paint on it an whipe it off when still wet,
After a few coats it started to look ok.
I'm looking for an easier way.
(https://i.imgur.com/c75geBHm.jpg)
I spray Matt black into the etch....Let dry then re sand off the excess......removes the paint and gives the box a final buff.
Mask off any places you dont want paint on to save a bit of sanding later..
indeed a good way to do.
This one has been etched with a vinyl mask, then sprayed with matte black and a light coat of gold, all with the mask still on.
When dry, brushed it with steel wool. I'm pretty satisfied with the result
(https://i.imgur.com/oQWg3iNm.jpg)
yeah, came out cool man. 8)
My recent etches:
(https://i.imgur.com/Tjo1tccl.jpg)
Top and bottom lid both etched with Fe3
Quote from: thomasha on February 06, 2020, 02:12:07 PM
My recent etches:
<above>
Top and bottom lid both etched with Fe3
Oooh, those are fab! Nice work!
Quote from: willienillie on February 07, 2020, 12:08:48 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 14, 2019, 11:48:09 AM
cool, came out great man........ 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 09, 2019, 08:54:31 AM
cool....came out great. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 02, 2020, 11:31:48 AM
yeah, came out cool man. 8)
8)
Rob likes his etches so much, he had a rubber stamp made. ;D
Quote from: ElectricDruid on February 06, 2020, 07:03:08 PM
Oooh, those are fab! Nice work!
Wait until you see what goes on the inside (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=123818.msg1172304#msg1172304)! :icon_eek:
One of the first builds this year. Tried a bit different etching technique for texture.
(https://i.postimg.cc/v1LMKqhd/IMG-20200208-124509.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1LMKqhd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/R3v2WM7j/IMG-20200208-124743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3v2WM7j)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qhzbKgzZ/IMG-20200208-125148.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhzbKgzZ)
Presenting the "Boostischewski":
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZC9FPCsv/IMG-20200219-000245.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZC9FPCsv)
My first stompbox ever, a clean boost with two gains and a switchable bandpass at 1800Hz, built for an acoustic guitar player friend as solo boost.
Lots of headroom, operates at +/- 9V.
All done with a TL072 with SMD components, as I hate drilling PCB's.
Some holes came out off center (damn blunt centering pin of cheap drill bit), but overall I'm quite satisfied.
Etching mask was produced by spray painting the thing and "printing" the image with a laser engraver. Fe3-Cl for the etching.
I like the rugged look, but next time I will go for beforehand polishing, deeper etching, again spray painting and sanding excess off afterwards for better contrast and shinier overall appearance.
QuoteAll done with a TL072 with SMD components, as I hate drilling PCB's.
.... photos of which you will soon be showing us.
welcome to the forum. I wanna pull on, my my my my my boostie shoes skis.
Guts are quite messy, as I made most wires plain too long and did not trim PCB to size. But if you guys can stomach it, i will take some gut shots. Gotta open it again anyway for some resistor and cap stacking, as I'm not quite happy with the gains yet.
btw: "Boostischewski" is a reference to the last name of the guy it's intended for and is pronounced "boostishevskee".
finished off a comp..... 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/288Ywhrr/20200222-124647.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gm61dfYm/20200222-124715.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pLmHNvmS/20200222-124743.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/65jX1qpR/20200222-124821.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/G3jrGq0X/20200222-124914.jpg)
Very classy as usual, Rob. :icon_cool:
cheers man, needs must, i needed a comp for my latest tunes...... 8)
The detail in the clamp is super, very impressive! All good, looks great.
dave
Cool man, came out great. :icon_cool:
:icon_mrgreen:
Dang, Rob, that's nice!
cheers dave/ben.... 8)
I always liked my etches. But ... merde ... yours are sooo clean. I'd never have the patience to sand and polish on that level beforehand. If I was rich I'd like to have these pedals you build.
If I were rich, I'd have Rob sand and polish my pedals. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: bluebunny on March 16, 2020, 06:10:34 PM
If I were rich, I'd have Rob sand and polish my pedals. :icon_biggrin:
If I were really rich, I'd have you write my comments and just go on with the wine...
if i was rich i'd get a new elbow....its all in the elbow grease.....all in the prep. 8)
If I was Rich, I'd be doing crazy things with envelope followers and STOMPLFO chips! ;D
Quote from: bluebunny on March 17, 2020, 09:59:14 AM
If I was Rich, I'd be doing crazy things with envelope followers and STOMPLFO chips! ;D
.... and wrongly ordering thousands of darlington driver chips with no audio uses.
hes still at it then.....cool. 8)
Quote from: duck_arse on March 17, 2020, 10:04:07 AM
Quote from: bluebunny on March 17, 2020, 09:59:14 AM
If I was Rich, I'd be doing crazy things with envelope followers and STOMPLFO chips! ;D
.... and wrongly ordering thousands of darlington driver chips with no audio uses.
Alright, the man's not here to defend himself. (He's probably having a kipper, then.)
Love this thread. These are not my first attempt at all, but some of the first I will accept responsibility for :o . NaOH. Still finding it very hard to achieve much depth before the mask pits and the thin lines get eaten from the sides and disappear entirely. I think I'm learning that designs must be able to accommodate a bit of glitch.
(https://i.postimg.cc/R667xQ86/IMG-0027.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R667xQ86)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xc0XK3Rv/IMG-0023.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xc0XK3Rv)
First etch for a long time, I barely had time to build anything until this lock down and even then to few builds I have completed I've just been lazy and used waterside decals. Turned out okay, just needs some knobs.
It's a Revv G4 clone, big thanks to Iainpunk for his help getting this thing working.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bdL2sQb2/IMG-20200403-154017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bdL2sQb2)
That looks really good, Iain. Are you going to add any contrast colour in the etched areas, or rely on dramatic side-lighting? ;) Either way, it looks great.
Cheers! Nah I'll probably just leave it as is. The original plan was to paint the etched areas to have it stand out a bit better but then the lazyness kicked back in.
Sounds alright too! Had realised that for all the different overdrives and fuzz pedals I have I was a bit short on full on metal distortion pedals besides my various attempts at a Dimebag Darrell distortions. This thing should scratch that itch for a short while.
Hey everyone, hope you're keeping well! Realised I hadn't posted any builds here for a while so here's a recent smattering!
DAM Sonic Titan
(https://i.imgur.com/oLBoswR.jpg)
DBA Fuzz War
(https://i.imgur.com/fpGM118.jpg)
Sunn Model T Preamp
(https://i.imgur.com/XWtNxp0.jpg)
Lovetone Doppelgänger
(https://i.imgur.com/sZlfS1o.jpg)
Wow, even those ones being posted at the etched enclosures topic, it took me a while to believe those are etches! Amazing job!
HEXJIBBER IS BACK!!!!!
Your work has always been among my favorites, glad to see more of it 8)
Not so easy to follow hexjibbers astonishing reverse etches, but here's my most recent attempts. finally got these guys (phase90, super fuzz, dod carcosa and yet another Big Muff) boxed up in some relatively nice looking enclosures. Somewhere along the line I've misplaced a backplate so the BMP is working but technically incomplete.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MMJgdDw7/IMG-20200526-191824.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMJgdDw7)
And the obligatory (not so nice looking) guts shot:
(https://i.postimg.cc/d75T9WrX/IMG-20200526-191844.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d75T9WrX)
Quote from: slashandburn on May 26, 2020, 02:25:07 PM
and yet another Big Muff
With MIDS..??
(not Big Muff, anymore..)
Quote from: slashandburn on May 26, 2020, 02:25:07 PM
Not so easy to follow hexjibbers astonishing reverse etches, but here's my most recent attempts. finally got these guys (phase90, super fuzz, dod carcosa and yet another Big Muff) boxed up in some relatively nice looking enclosures. Somewhere along the line I've misplaced a backplate so the BMP is working but technically incomplete.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MMJgdDw7/IMG-20200526-191824.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMJgdDw7)
And the obligatory (not so nice looking) guts shot:
(https://i.postimg.cc/d75T9WrX/IMG-20200526-191844.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d75T9WrX)
These etches look great man, super clean!
Cheers man, I appreciate the kind words. I think I got lucky in the Cheap Toner Cartridge lottery this time.
I'm sure it'd all end in tears if I was attempt anything resembling your Sunn preamp or doppelganger. I've only ever been brave enough twice to try a reverse etch, first time was an absolute disaster. Second attempt was passible (and probably my still my best looking diy enclosure, all these years later) but the sheer amount of work involved was enough to steer me down the dark path towards waterside decals.
I agree, your etches are amazing, Iain. So clean!
If my memory is not failing on me, I did reverse etch 9 times, plus a mix of "regular" etch and reverse on the same design (a big muff based on the original artwork and another one I didn't got the layout to fit the box yet), all for 1590A. They're indeed hard to get a good result, but on the other hand the regular etches are hard to keep clean the parts you don't want to be etched.
Another couple from me..
Dead End FX Grimafuzz- basically the fuzz bit of the Schumann PLL, sounds mean!
(https://i.imgur.com/SrHD6nG.jpg)
And the 'Aztec Factory' as I have termed it! Never built a Fuzz Factory before, I really like it! Shame it's not for me! :'(
(https://i.imgur.com/fNVqTzb.jpg)
One of Toms rather nice flangers, the only effect I'd never built so built 2 this month and started etching again I like them to look a wee bit old and battered just like me! Just scratched it a tiny bit here and there and sanded off less than I normally do
Nice easy build this one great sounding Flanger
(https://i.postimg.cc/8z55QKRk/20200602-022347.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2tx8Zqb/20200602-021748.jpg)
And here we have an example of how I like to destroy my etches even sanding off some clearcoat around the switch, lectricfx celeste chorus
I don't know why I like them to look like they've been dragged behind a full throttle Trabant...but I do!
(https://i.postimg.cc/JtVsTbtW/20200312-011716.jpg)
Great looking flanger, Billy. Yeah, Tom's designs are top notch and very straightforward builds.
I've been busier than I thought!
(https://i.postimg.cc/15kRDrkT/Family-Photo.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJGphCN7)
great etches man....been a busy bee..... 8) 8) 8)
Tried something new: transfering and etching 3 sides at the same time.
Still something to learn. The edges are not as good as I would like, probably needed more effort during the transfer.
Instead of etching everything at the same time I kept turning it in a shallow puddle of acid. The edges suffered with the overexposure too.
(https://i.imgur.com/dWQjyx5l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Vv4HkCQl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ghFTR5vl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6pNZidnl.jpg)
Awesome...that looks excellent.... 8) 8) 8)
Well worth trying man...nice one
Wow that's awesome!
Wow! Fantastic. I hope, I'll get that out of my head until my next enclosures are due.....
Thanks!
Has anyone tried something similar?
Doing every side separately can give better results, but takes too much time. I think i'll work longer on the ironing of the edges next time.
I tried it once, doing all the faces but the bottom one: https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=85803.msg1124263#msg1124263
I can't really remember if I did all the faces at the same time or one by one, but I do remember it was a hard etching because one side come more shallow than the other. I didn't tried it again, not for the extra work but because I didn't had to. This one was a drawing by a friend that asked me for the pedal, so it was a kind of "signature exclusive" build :icon_mrgreen:.
But I don't think I can do more than one side with as much details as you can. In fact, I don't know if I can do just one side with as much details as you can :icon_mrgreen:
my latest....
after months of tinkering on breadboard with different chorus's...here it is, skyscape chorus.
a heavily modded small stone with bells n whistles.....
(https://i.postimg.cc/f3d38G9m/20200630-133206.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3d38G9m)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jDmwQxLR/20200630-133411.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDmwQxLR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WqNhbtfw/20200630-133502.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqNhbtfw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qhXNT2Q7/20200630-133521.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhXNT2Q7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/4nsK1FNH/20200630-133543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nsK1FNH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jCcD3QLg/20200630-133612.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCcD3QLg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JDWsvpNg/20200630-133636.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDWsvpNg)
and demo of course....
Nice work, Rob! :icon_cool:
Awesome - as all your other previous etches :icon_wink:
SMD always feels a bit like cheating. But it is still a lot of work taking the debugging into account (I submitted a faulty BOM and one gain setting resistor was indeed a 3n3 cap. That took me some time to figure out!).
So here is the "Hipster", two hyped pedals (at least in Germany) in one enclosure. A Benson Preamp and a 1981.
(https://i.postimg.cc/c4Q3xx1m/Hipster-k.jpg)
Quote from: lars-musik on September 08, 2020, 09:40:58 AMSo here is the "Hipster", two hyped pedals (at least in Germany) in one enclosure. A Benson Preamp and a 1981.
(https://i.postimg.cc/c4Q3xx1m/Hipster-k.jpg)
I really like this. How did you do the color fading? What's the etching solution / time.
Quote from: phasetrans on September 08, 2020, 01:45:48 PM
Quote from: lars-musik on September 08, 2020, 09:40:58 AMSo here is the "Hipster", two hyped pedals (at least in Germany) in one enclosure. A Benson Preamp and a 1981.
I really like this. How did you do the color fading? What's the etching solution / time.
Just aim, angle your paint source so paint doesn't reach the far end of the enclosure. Practice, experiment spraying a fade on paper before you try it on an enclosure. Way easier to do than explain.
dave
Quote from: phasetrans on September 08, 2020, 01:45:48 PM
I really like this. How did you do the color fading? What's the etching solution / time.
[/quote]
Fading as Davent said. The etching solution is HCl, 24%, heated to about 60°C. But I do the etching under a fume hood in a lab - the gases are noxious and the reaction is quite exothermic. I really wouldn't recommend it at home.
Quote from: lars-musik on September 08, 2020, 02:37:50 PM
Fading as Davent said. The etching solution is HCl, 24%, heated to about 60°C. But I do the etching under a fume hood in a lab - the gases are noxious and the reaction is quite exothermic. I really wouldn't recommend it at home.
My graduate school education was in physical chemistry and materials science, so this is my kind of reaction :-) Have you ever tried a phosphoric / nitric bright dip etchant?
Quote from: phasetrans on September 08, 2020, 02:47:11 PM
My graduate school education was in physical chemistry and materials science, so this is my kind of reaction :-)
Haha. That's settled then.
Quote from: phasetrans on September 08, 2020, 02:47:11 PM
Have you ever tried a phosphoric / nitric bright dip etchant?
No, I just googled it. Sounds very good. However, I found my standard protocol and will stick with it.
Quote from: lars-musik on September 08, 2020, 02:52:39 PM
Quote from: phasetrans on September 08, 2020, 02:47:11 PM
Have you ever tried a phosphoric / nitric bright dip etchant?
No, I just googled it. Sounds very good. However, I found my standard protocol and will stick with it.
What do you use as the protective film in the hot acid? Standard transfer paper?
Quote from: phasetrans on September 08, 2020, 06:34:54 PM
What do you use as the protective film in the hot acid? Standard transfer paper?
This: https://de.farnell.com/kontakt-chemie/positiv-20-200ml/fotolack-positiv-fl-ssigresist/dp/801010
Quote from: lars-musik on September 09, 2020, 02:28:35 AM
Quote from: phasetrans on September 08, 2020, 06:34:54 PM
What do you use as the protective film in the hot acid? Standard transfer paper?
This: https://de.farnell.com/kontakt-chemie/positiv-20-200ml/fotolack-positiv-fl-ssigresist/dp/801010
Oh, a "real" positive resist. Takes me back to my first engineering job, lithography engineer at AMD.
What do you use to transfer the image? Acetate? Paper made transparent (somehow)?
This works good for me: https://www.avery-zweckform.com/produkt/folien-fuer-die-druckformerstellung-3491
My first ever and second DIY pedal build for me and my friend. Big Muff Pi v3 clone with some modifications.
Elecrolytically etched case, it is a bit wild process to control it, first attempt (left) was slightly better than second one :icon_rolleyes:
(https://i.postimg.cc/KRcGfXxw/image.png) (https://postimg.cc/KRcGfXxw)
Hi, small etch for a dr. boogei
(https://i.imgur.com/yYrjXwCl.jpg)
and the final result>
(https://i.imgur.com/lk9ziYrl.jpg)
you've got more knobs than sense, thomasha.
anyone else not able to get on postimages.org?
:-\
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 15, 2020, 09:30:20 AM
anyone else not able to get on postimages.org?
:-\
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=125826.0
cheers erik...thought it was just me. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 15, 2020, 09:54:38 AM
cheers erik...thought it was just me. ;)
It's more of a 2020 thing. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 15, 2020, 09:54:38 AM
thought it was just me. ;)
Aren't "just you" enough to cause all those troubles..?? :icon_mrgreen: :icon_lol:
Yes....ha ha :icon_twisted:
my latest creation.....flanger with mix, lfo depth, fast lfo/ lfo off for manual filter/and uber slow lfo, and wide and thin sound.....demo soon. 8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dkyCvtMD/20201115-140053.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dkyCvtMD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8fg6CQD4/20201115-140443.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8fg6CQD4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NyLTJkp6/20201115-140453.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NyLTJkp6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zHwRbtGr/20201115-140521.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zHwRbtGr)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yJ5Rw3bw/20201115-140554.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJ5Rw3bw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BjmHBVcZ/20201115-140603.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjmHBVcZ)
Nicely done!
For a second I though there were thousands of LEDs on that enclosure based on the last image.
Quote from: thomasha on November 16, 2020, 08:41:06 AM
For a second I though there were thousands of LEDs on that enclosure based on the last image.
Careful what you wish for! :icon_eek:
Nice job, Rob. :icon_cool:
Quote from: thomasha on November 16, 2020, 08:41:06 AM
For a second I though there were thousands of LEDs on that enclosure based on the last image.
oooh....i should have :icon_mrgreen:
Looking great as always D'Astro, bravo
Haha. Look what happens if you are preoccupied and forget an enlcosure in the etching bath. And finally I seems to have mis-measured seriously, so that I even had to 3D print knobs because the drillings were too close together. But I had to finish this, no matter what!
It's a Electric Druid Tap Tremolo into a Ghost Echo by the way.
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvXXpLth/Wipeout.jpg)
Wow! Imo this one is just amazing!
love it..looks like sand after water has run off on the beach...wipe out suits it. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 25, 2021, 08:18:17 AM
love it..looks like sand after water has run off on the beach...wipe out suits it. 8)
Yeah, exactly what I was thinking. It's a beach when the waves go out. Wipe out is perfect. Trem into echo must be a real surf guitar kind of sound too?
Looks fantastic, really unique.
Happy perfect accident, if you tried to repeat it... good luck!
Quote from: davent on March 26, 2021, 07:08:29 PM
Happy perfect accident, if you tried to repeat it... good luck!
I really doubt it can be done again :icon_lol:
This thread is so addictive. I've seen some beautiful pedals. I think it's my turn to share mine.
Reverse etching is so hard. It stills takes me to many tries to get the ink in the metal. I messed up the edges because I put tape, so the acid doesn't eat too much. I was afraid that it would eat the back of the pedals where the screws go because it already happened the first try (this is my second on). Next time I will do it without covering the edges of the designs.
(https://i.postimg.cc/w10y5c50/Whats-App-Image-2021-02-12-at-10-44-10.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w10y5c50)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1gXgvnJP/Whats-App-Image-2021-02-12-at-10-44-11-3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gXgvnJP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HJNrRYhM/Whats-App-Image-2021-02-12-at-10-44-12.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJNrRYhM)
It may not have ended up as well as you've expected (?) but then it does have a nice "vintage" look :)
Quote from: BJM on April 28, 2021, 05:26:45 AM
It may not have ended up as well as you've expected (?) but then it does have a nice "vintage" look :)
Yes. More beautiful to me than a pedal that looks perfect is a nice looking pedal with some defects because you know it's the work of a person and not a machine.
I thought I'd try the Flangelicious from Tom at Electric Druid, and can say I'm quite happy with it. So, I tried to give it a nice home (enclosure). I thank everyone here for the encouragement and inspiration.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hJY42xV5/IMG-20210429-155330.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJY42xV5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Q9rNLDnQ/IMG-20210428-001822.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9rNLDnQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0brsBryg/IMG-20210428-004332.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0brsBryg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZvR12DZP/IMG-20210428-004258.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvR12DZP)
Nice build. 8) And worth saying thanks again to Tom for a great project.
Nice work, bravo!
Finished another ultra flanger:
(https://i.imgur.com/eeGVvXEl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y4XDaoml.jpg)
whoahhh thats tiny for a flanger,
excellent. 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: thomasha on May 02, 2021, 04:54:30 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/Y4XDaoml.jpg)
Always love seeing your work, stunning as always. Looking forward to seeing it with guts inside ;)
Hey all, my first DIY build and etched enclosure. A fools gold from Coda Effects (something easy to start with!)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dZ3NrR0r/Fools-Gold-WW01.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dZ3NrR0r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NytNpvMg/Fools-Gold-WW02.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NytNpvMg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T5KQpRkc/Fools-Gold-WW03.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T5KQpRkc)
^ nice first build and etch and first post too..cool.......welcome to the forum. 8)
Yeah, what the spaceboy said. 8) Welcome, Ernie.
Some new builds. Rat Deluxe, and Sunn T Preamp.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mcM7n0Xc/20210611-125413.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mcM7n0Xc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RJCfNqMf/20210611-125800.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RJCfNqMf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DJT13BHx/20210611-125902.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DJT13BHx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/62fnWCNt/20210620-150112.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62fnWCNt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PNd16Vmx/20210620-150148.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PNd16Vmx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gnSyLyL0/20210620-150235.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnSyLyL0)
Awesome etches!
Another nice pair of etches. 8)
One more of my latest etched enclosure for a Madbean Current Lover.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2LWLsF3x/IMG-20210901-224259.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2LWLsF3x)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YvPkFcdh/IMG-20210902-111256.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvPkFcdh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/S2fxCTX3/IMG-20210901-224450.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2fxCTX3)
Quote from: thomasha on May 02, 2021, 04:54:30 AM
Finished another ultra flanger:
(https://i.imgur.com/Y4XDaoml.jpg)
This is beautiful. I am also getting into the 1590LB game at the moment...
This is a Fortin33 boost (with a ridiculously high parts count for a boost)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XY0tXXpv/Forte-Boost.jpg)
Plus another one for contrast (a 1590BB). A Rat followd by a Ross Phaser (4 and 8 stages switchable) followd by a Varioboost parametric EQ.
(https://i.postimg.cc/cLwZ5V8v/DSC-2076.jpg)
[edited for hanging tags ....]
First post of 2022! This is my first successful etch/pedal build. A clone of The Klon Centaur. Artwork is the Gustave Doré etch which illustrates Canto 12 verses 73-74 of Dante's Inferno. I read through this entire thread looking for any info on NaOH etching any pieced together a working method from what I found. I had no luck whatsoever with glossy photo paper, even after buying 3 different brands. I eventually tried the yellow thermal transfer paper from eBay and had flawless results. I found its super important to let the caustic come back down to room temperature before etching, otherwise the toner melts straight off. I used a 20%-25% solution and etched for 15 minutes then wiped/rinsed. Doing that 2 more times. I had to stop because the fine details around the letters were being eaten away. The depth of the etch is minuscule, it couldn't be less shallow. Next time I'll use at least 35% w/w. I did some mods to the circuit: raised the value of the capacitor coming from the tone knob to 6.8nF, to increase tonal response. Lowered the resistor next to the gain knob to add more distortion. I attempted to spilt the distortion Channel over 2 pots but had to end up reversing that mod to get the pedal to work 😅.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tnHYKcWK/368-ABF63-1-FDB-414-E-90-F5-3-DF5-C6-E12-A34.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tnHYKcWK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JshGCZHz/9-CF94-D88-00-EF-4-FE5-B593-F363-EACF0-B34.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JshGCZHz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/w3htX6dg/BBD6-DDA0-47-FF-4-AF8-9235-D1-EEA424-CBF3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3htX6dg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RWbqShwQ/F3-E05579-DF7-C-4-D4-E-9-EF9-9487-E16084-A9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWbqShwQ)
Holy crap, looks like the last time I posted in this thread was in 2014. Glad to see people are still etching enclosures :) and lots of awesome stuff on the last few pages! I need to go back a hundred pages and see what I have missed. I think sometime right about now I can say I that I have been etching for 12 years. Jeez!
I bought a harbor freight buffer last year so it's been fun getting some of these things shiny and not having to use any paint. Here's one that I etched tonight. I want this to be extra shiny after being hit with the buffer over the weekend so this one has been hit with steel wool and then 400 - 800 - 1200 - 2000 - 3000 grit. It's a lot of work for sure but think I will be pleased once its done. I recently sold my Rangemaster that I finally made 2 years ago using a fancy military transistor that I had bought from Small Bear probably in 2011. So this one is going to be a rangemaster with an input cap blend with mojo parts on an etched board. I'll post them up again once finished, hopefully this weekend. Cheers, everybody.
(https://i.imgur.com/mduxmvX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2lUCKQU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6JHqgqx.jpg)
finished off a couple of easydriver dual overdrives. :)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bb28v8mX/20220414-151127.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZqDvsz9K/20220414-151140.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d1kkzNdR/20220414-151157.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/59zQgGfb/20220414-151209.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y95GkNf5/20220414-151238.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/433h1xxS/20220414-151302.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2Gz5wrM/20220414-151327.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/3x1vpvYG/ETCHABSRE.jpg)
Lovely work as usual, Rob. I like that the headlights actually look like headlights. :icon_cool: Unlike most new cars where they're obviously LEDs. :icon_confused:
I love those small chicken-heads too. A pal supplied his own when he asked me to make a couple of pedals for him (he kindly left me with a couple spare).
Cheers man, yeah gotta have " warm" whites for lights,. ( cant stand those nasty grey ice white stark leds)
Im a small chicken head convert....nice visual indicators.....got a load of cream n black ones... 8) 8) 8)
A little channel switch pedal I put together for my second etch project. Artwork is a reworked detail of a Gustave Doré piece from Dante's Inferno. Made using NaOH.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Zvbppz5R/36-C0-A3-C1-C421-4326-893-D-45-B58-B06481-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Zvbppz5R)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WF60d1jC/60-A71420-F7-A8-4-B1-F-8-D97-52980-BF05-D1-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WF60d1jC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1fYwnThm/6450-DC6-B-AF9-E-41-C7-BD8-C-A29-F7-BE03-F20.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1fYwnThm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XXLw3qsy/EBA237-AA-3574-4-E67-8-EFA-03-C9-B9-B33-E14.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXLw3qsy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z04r1pxS/FE9119-FA-8-DBC-4525-920-C-29-B8-BAC2-B66-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z04r1pxS)
sanguine distortion From pedalpcb. Again a Gustave Doré artwork done with NaOH. Red clearcoat was done with an airbrush.
(https://i.postimg.cc/34TvQ4VV/007-D1466-8-BA8-4-C4-B-9473-E0-FBAD490-F7-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34TvQ4VV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/R64NDrnz/34-B16-E00-8858-4-CD5-A581-02060-A85-D0-AF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R64NDrnz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tYMnCm8h/56-C1-CCF2-B623-4786-A388-B70-CD2-C33758.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYMnCm8h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wth12xMV/6-F88-EDB5-7015-4-CEE-88-C7-18-BB20-BB1-A95.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wth12xMV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7GnTHPy6/87821013-2-FA1-47-C5-AE05-6-B8-CDA4-BA187.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GnTHPy6)
New face plate for my hellbabe. Artwork by Dürer. Plus some behemoth lyrics
(https://i.postimg.cc/tYZWPj3r/479-A1-C35-40-E6-429-E-BFEE-1-FE54-EFD3-FF1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYZWPj3r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/JsjX65dZ/79-B1-B765-9-AF4-4-A7-C-B85-D-BA4-F686-D5-C68.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JsjX65dZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GHWYx5zb/F889-B71-F-9-C7-D-4-DCB-878-E-F02-DC05-B35-FC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GHWYx5zb)
Awesome, came out great man.... 8)
Here's one I finished last week (Klone). Direct etch on a 1590B. Unfortunately, I ended up discovering a voltage issue after boxing it up (had no indication of it from testing) and I've since torn it apart trying to solve the problem. But, the etch came out pretty well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fSy4Z4wW/IMP2022.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSy4Z4wW)
Life pedal clone I made recently. NaOH etch. Artwork is The dragon devouring the companions of Cadmus, 1588 by Hendrick Goltzius.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tYYYGRq2/5-AE1367-C-3433-4360-961-A-DE0048516-D9-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYYYGRq2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Lh4JvBrd/85-F24209-6228-4-FAD-9-FA0-3-C3863-ABAC67.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lh4JvBrd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0rtb4Ksz/A5-B211-DD-1005-43-A3-ABF8-27-F636544075.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0rtb4Ksz)
Wow that is awesome.
Very cool torch.., :o
I made all of these with Muriatic Acid.
I really dig the grittiness but that isn't always the look I'm going for.
As you can see, it's damn aggressive. and kinda scary. Glad I discovered this thread, going to try the Ferric Chloride route.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dLr0LhDY/IMG-5776.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLr0LhDY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bZRN94QV/IMG-5773.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZRN94QV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ppMpRfkv/IMG-5970.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppMpRfkv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/F7b1RYnL/IMG-5971.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7b1RYnL)
Hi,
some new etches after a long time:
(https://i.postimg.cc/251dQ7PP/Photo-09-08-23-19-46-30.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMgshdBn/Photo-09-08-23-19-49-45.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nrZBj2dv/Photo-09-08-23-19-48-46.jpg)
My last dump of etches from the last year. All done with NaOH. I've started using a laser to engrave now so I'll probably won't be using acid for the foreseeable future.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HjgjfTyK/3-ED14-DEE-B784-47-C8-88-AD-D4702-B9810-EA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HjgjfTyK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tZ0GnCbH/5-B1-F31-BD-B242-49-F4-A09-B-E52-A6-D9-B7-FCC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZ0GnCbH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YLz7HcJB/737-ECE4-B-AEA8-4-C98-854-E-4-D3370-BE9144.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YLz7HcJB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bDQcxcYS/CB64-E116-62-D0-406-F-ABCB-C0-AE332-B5420.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDQcxcYS)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pyJyv3Qd/DAC43-C96-BC25-4099-B2-F4-CD2-EFD5-CE895.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pyJyv3Qd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GB6dPxkV/DBCFBA0-D-69-D2-4-D83-9-E4-B-E3596-C984-A81.png) (https://postimg.cc/GB6dPxkV)
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