the other dudes have it, so now you can too!
:D
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a113/midfielectronics/Pirate.jpg)
Cool, I love your laid back spirit on the availability of your schem's If only more builders would follow your example. (there are some.. like catalinbread)
Same here, although I do miss the nearly illegible schematic style you used to do.
Haha.. well this is quite illegible too ;D
Quote from: earthtonesaudio on November 11, 2010, 11:17:13 AM
Same here, although I do miss the nearly illegible schematic style you used to do.
+1!!
Thanks for the schem, Doug :icon_smile:
You're a "gentleman and a scholar" Doug!
Thanks for your contribution and tact.
Thank you, and er commiserations. Hopefully you have a new bunch of tricks up your sleeve by now.
Doug, thank you for your generosity. You are truly a class act. :-*
Okay, I'm a dumbass, what is IC3?
Not really concerned except for curiosity about how this thing works.
Has anyone built a vero for this yet? If not, would someone please design one for me?
Kidding!!
Thank you for sharing this, Doug!
Holy sh*t!
Doug, you're the man.
Quote from: Ronsonic on November 11, 2010, 02:49:33 PM
Okay, I'm a dumbass, what is IC3?
Not really concerned except for curiosity about how this thing works.
Probably PT2399
IC3 is a PT2399.
Jeremy was right: anything by DD is cool.
Thanks.
This is going to be a bitch to vero without using axial electrolytics... Lots of pins going via a capacitor to ground, hard to do neatly.
i build them on perfboard with radials, so anything is possible! :D
Last time I tried to perf something, I got so angry I flung it in the bin and I haven't had the balls to try again since :D
I had it working (after pretty much a full resolder, and replacing a fried transistor that I'd cleverly put in first and used the legs of to connect everything else) only to find I'd put the pot in backwards.
You try desoldering a pot that has 3 sets 'perflined' to it. >:/
Vero , perf , whatever ....... I am doing this ! Remember - measure twice , cut once . If in doubt , check it again .
I will build this , it will not work , then I will fix all my stupid mistakes , and eventually it will be brilliant!!
That's the attitude Nick D!
Sooooo................ I built it . It didn't work at first ( of course ! ) , so I fixed the 5 stupid mistakes ,
and NOW - ( drum roll ..........) YEAH!!!!!!!
It does what it says on the tin , as they say . On fairly mild settings , it is quite musical -
start turning things up , and......WTF !!!!!!
I recommend anyone with a taste for the bizarre to have a go !!!
hello, I was working up a pcb for this schematic, and I was wondering what the anode end of the 1N4001 diode was connected to. I think it says 9v but then both ends of the diode would be connected to 9v is that right? Also, is the cathode end of the LED connected to a switch? If so how is it connected, I dont understand.
The anode goes to 9 volts, so the positive of the battery or DC jack.
Where it says +9V above the cathode that is just a label on the schematic meaning all the points marked +9V should be connected together. It doesn't mean connect it to 9 volts.
The cathode end of the LED and all the other stuff there should be connected to ground, I'm not sure what "SW" on the schematic is supposed to mean.
ok so I should just disregard the 9V+ on the cathode end of the diode. What about the same symbol on pin 6 of the LM386, pin 8 on the TL072 and the resistor on pin 3 of the TL072, those still get 9V+? Just so that I can learn from this how did you know that it is only there to tell you to connect all the 9V+'s together. Maybe the sw is for the 3PDT switch so the led doesnt stay on constantly and only gets ground and goes on when the pedal is on.
quick question.. i hope it doesn't sound dumb
is there two LED's in this or is that larger LED symbol just a part of the symbol for the LDR?
thankS!
I believe its a vactrol.. (you can buy them like that) or tape a ldr and led together with tape..
(http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSOOT-m3fUgP6be_rLkY91JdTvkOcr8Z2RkG-NHDGOL_csAEZ9e)
Quote from: louisquinn on March 08, 2012, 07:05:04 AM
quick question.. i hope it doesn't sound dumb
is there two LED's in this or is that larger LED symbol just a part of the symbol for the LDR?
thankS!
ohh awesome thanks one more thing....
is that REG1 a J505 or a 7505? can't really read it
the J505 is a current regulator and the 7505 is a voltage regulator
waait nevermind its a 7505 because that's the vcc of the IC
anyone got or making a layout for this? on perf, vero or pcb? im trying to make my own but its a pain in the ass! :D
i'd be into a vero too..
i'll try and make one up, but for some reason i totally suck at anything with ic's in it on vero.
Here is a vero layout that works well for me. It's from the Madbean schematic over at the "other" forum so it's not the deluxe version but it does sound just like the original You Tube demos. I'm not sure of the correct taper for the pots but log for the depth pot and linear for the others seems to work well. I tried a few LDR's and they all worked to some extent. However I got some great results with the Silonex NSL 4962 (available from Farnell amongst other places). I tried a green led (wavelength should be slightly closer to the sensitivity peak of the CdS ldr but the blue one worked better - probably due to it's higher intensity, white should work well also).
I should say that I copied this layout from a paper version (I'm new to DIYLC) so it has not been directly verified, although I have checked it over a few times........
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/50716053/Pitch%20Pirate.png)
Is there 28 or 29 trace cuts?
It says 29 at the top but i only see 28 cuts...
There's 29 there's a few tricky ones under components. maybe you missed the one under r10 I missed it the first three times I counted
Since the Glitch Computer has been discontinued I think it's fair to get some gutshots here sometime. ;D
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on January 02, 2013, 02:57:16 PM
There's 29 there's a few tricky ones under components. maybe you missed the one under r10 I missed it the first three times I counted
Damn, did you count 29, ive gone over it several times and im still getting 28. Ive included the cuts beneath d1, c1, r1, r10, theres 15 under the ic's and the rest are easily visible. Are pins 3 and 6 of ic3 meant to be connected?
Btw, how did the pitch pirate work out for you?
There are only 28 cuts marked on that layout
Ermagerd! That thing is fantastico!
I can't wait to build one... My only question is "Is the bank going to give me a loan for all the shit I need to order from small bear?"
This might be one of those pedals that you want to buy instead of make...unless you're up to it!
Quote from: Skruffyhound on January 02, 2013, 07:48:29 PM
There are only 28 cuts marked on that layout
Thank you!
So im not going mad after all or forgotten how to count.
Im thinking about doing the pcb etch for this instead...
Quote from: hangingmonkey on January 03, 2013, 02:54:22 AM
Quote from: Skruffyhound on January 02, 2013, 07:48:29 PM
There are only 28 cuts marked on that layout
Thank you!
So im not going mad after all or forgotten how to count.
Im thinking about doing the pcb etch for this instead...
Yeah my mistake, sorry about that :icon_redface:. On the plus side this layout has been verified by someone at the other forum. I corrected the file to 28 cuts and marked it as verified.
thanks for the schematics!! and thanks for the build!! i searched for some demos and it looks very impressive. but one question though: why did you use high voltage caps? for mojo or just because you didnt have 16/25v around? does anyone know if higher voltage matters in these circuits (i mean, higher than 16v)?
Quote from: timd on January 02, 2013, 11:13:47 PM
This might be one of those pedals that you want to buy instead of make...unless you're up to it!
I perfed one, never again. I can't believe Doug perfs all these things.
Sorry for bringing this up again.
but i gotta ask is the led next to r10 and ground to anything or for aesthetics only.
It blinks with the LFO, which lets you set trem rate without listening. Good when you pre-set for a song of different wobble speed.
If you can't spare the space or the 13 cents, you could omit it, and set by ear.
Thanks PRR for the reply
But i had problems actually with the 2nd led on there. Eventually the LFO would stop and the led just stays lit. After about 3-5 mins playing. I tried various adjustments to cap values and res. but eventually removing the 2nd led just solved it. I guess the two leds must have identical tolerances and also the resistors to be matched for 2 leds in parrallel to stop messing with circuit.
Any way very happy with it.
The LED resistors should do a good job of stopping the indicator LED interacting in any way with the LDR LED.
What did you do with the point on the schematic marked "SW"? That I think should be switched to ground when you want the LFO to act on the delay time - however, I don't think that can work properly like that, the LDR still ends up connected to the PT2399 pin 6 via the LDR resistance in series if "SW" is not grounded, and can still wobble the delay time.
Anyway, the stripboard layout on page 2 here ignores the "SW" switch and hard-wires "SW" to ground, so if you followed that, you shouldn't have a problem with the extra indicator LED.
the pads marked sw i used a toggle switch to ground. when its on the circuit will wobble and wave. hahaha when off the led towards the ldr is off so it only functions as a delay and a subtle chorus. it does not wobble at all if sw is not connected to ground.
Yeh, I just noticed "SW" also supplies 0v for the LFO op-amp, so it should cease to wobble with the switch open.
The intention there is for the LDR and associated LED to be enclosed together as in a Vactrol (note the dotted lines enclosing them) while the extra indicator LED is up in the panel. The extra LED must never, ever, shine on the LDR.
i use a led and ldr i wrap in aluminum tape then shrink tube lenght wise and cross wise. works quite well i see 1 meg ++ with out the led on and drop s to 0 the moment i put a 3v cr2032 batt on the led
To clarify this for a clod like me: does the switch just interrupt the connection of the led to ground? This is what eliminates the warble? Thanks!
Yes Bob, that would appear to be the intention.
You know, I wouldn't want to say for sure without probing the circuit.
Pin 6 of the PT2399 has about 2.5v on it. There is a path when the switch is off (0v disconnected) via the LDR to that 2.5v. Switch at off also removes the negative supply to IC2 of the LFO. With that the positive supply remains connected, so I would expect all the LFO connections could drift up to +9v. That means there's some chance for the LDR to leak enough current for the LED's to be partially lit. It probably depends on the dark resistance of the particular LDR. But if low enough to let the LED's light, the LDR resistance falls, increasing the leakage to turn on the LEDs more!
If the LDR resistance fell enough, then IC2 gets 2.5v on it's 0v pin - and could run!
Anybody else see that - or am I fooling myself?
Looking at the schematic, I'm still confused. :icon_redface: Is the switch supposed to break the connection to ground of both the Vactrol led and the display led?
Yes it is.
Actually, I now think the switch is the 3rd pole of the 3PDT stomp switch. The LFO rate indicator LED doubles as effect active indicator.
There may have been trouble with audible ticking from the LFO when bypassed, which is why the switch also stops the oscillator.
Thanks, Jim! I've been working up a perf layout...almost ready to post.
Ive built 3 already hehehehe i think using a dpdt to toogle the switch to ground would be usefull. This thing has awesome delay powers heeheh.
A footswitch would definitely be the way to go.
Here's a layout for Jeremy... ;D
(http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/catchascatchcan/image_zpsyzgrdmgw.jpeg)
Quote from: rutabaga bob on August 07, 2016, 09:47:34 PM
A footswitch would definitely be the way to go.
Here's a layout for Jeremy... ;D
(http://i1070.photobucket.com/albums/u499/catchascatchcan/image_zpsyzgrdmgw.jpeg)
Where were you three years ago?
:icon_lol:
Didn't know about it then...built a Clari(not).
Yeah, the switch pad on the LFO ground goes to the 3pdt, turns the LFO off when the pedals off.
The current version of this circuit doesn't REQUIRE this, but I still do it just to be safe.
Hi. I built the vero version and its poping when i engage. Isnt R1 1M? Thanks.
R1 is 100k, I believe...in series with the input, not a resistor-to-ground (pull-down).
Sorry for the bump from the dead, but I can't find any schematics of this pedal anywhere (fsb, google images, and the photobucket links are dead). Can someone please upload it as a normal image? I would be forever grateful ;D
GIYF:
(http://www.luciferstrip.com/fuzz/pitchpirate.jpg)