my latest creation....oh no not again i hear you say.. :icon_rolleyes:
introducing the (drumroll ........................)
'LIGHTWAH'.....
not built yet ,but hey..these things take time... :icon_wink:
http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry#p/u/0/SEPIKOnpiNE (http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry#p/u/0/SEPIKOnpiNE)
Cool effect idea bro. I had the idea to do the same thing with a tremolo (you totally beat me to it). Post some picks when you get this bad boy together! I'm really interested in seeing how you are going to box it up.
Quote from: Jhouse on December 08, 2010, 11:13:11 AM
Cool effect idea bro. I had the idea to do the same thing with a tremolo (you totally beat me to it). Post some picks when you get this bad boy together! I'm really interested in seeing how you are going to box it up.
will do...so am i?.. :icon_mrgreen:
i fancy it will be in a 1590bb with the switch to one side...and an ldr in the space next to it..to tap with ya foot..
with the indicator or rate led facing the ldr ....something like that.......i found some pcb right angle led holders
that will do the job fine...
my main task was to get the ldr to respond in reverse...
That sounds like a good idea. I'm not too crazy about BB sized enclosures though. I've always been a sucker for a bunch of knobs on my effects and I never seem to have enough space to make everything look neat. Then again, I did try to fit an AMZ overdrive pro along with a Brian May treble booster in 1 1590bb with dual outputs (and 7 potentiometers!). That's probably where I got my negative stigma for them.
i think i mean bb...the size up from the 1590b...bit wider etc...
Yeah. You're right. The BB has almost an inch and a half on the B I do believe.
Cool stuff, I'd imagine a slow speed wah "stab" would be nice as well.
Something with the same fast we-oooh but with more spacce between
stabs.
yeah that'd be cool...id like a tone in there too to soften the wah maybe..for subtlety..a sort of depth etc.....maybe..
nice work! sounds really pretty.
beavis audio did something similar, as did george blekas of pedalworx. george has his on the market, he did a nice job on it.
http://pedalwor.startlogic.com/CM.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W1eFQdje7MA&fmt=7
not posting this to rain on your parade, just letting everyone know.
yeah no worries joe....
this wont use a treadle though!..
thought about many designs for wah treadles...and i just cant be bothered with em...too mechanical and big
ive got a standard wah anyway..i was looking at pedal board real estate issues too..nice n small...
that sounds lovely though.....bit phasey, which is another thing id like to incorporate..oneday...
ha ha..its not raining ok... :icon_mrgreen: cheers joe. keep whacking that tele man... rob. :icon_mrgreen:
would've thought he'd show the pedal though!.....
cheers back atcha. :icon_rolleyes: ;D
commencing tele-whack
$260.00 for that...without shipping?...@#$%ing hell..what a rip!... ::)
update:
anyway...heres where ive got to now with this! project....sounds great with a bit of dirt too...
still working on the layout, had to mess around with the mode switching etc..i'm pretty sure i'll have it done soon-ish... :icon_wink:
it'll fit in a 1590b easily.. 3knobs, 2 toggles.. :icon_wink: :icon_cool:
keep em peeled!.. :icon_cool:
http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry?feature=mhum#p/u/0/86MOeesAOqs
I really like the sound of it! Great work!
Cheers man, its been a bit of a nightmare getting the switching right..
but yeah it'll be cool, 3 fx in one...plus manual wah too...working on the layout still....arghhhh....bloody pcb's.. :icon_mrgreen:
Sounds really good! needs a tap tempo ;D
EDIT: Thumbs up for the riffage!!
That first sound on the second video sounds really cool, well done!
btw, piezo's on that guitar?
Quote from: ~arph on March 07, 2011, 10:50:44 AM
btw, piezo's on that guitar?
???...good pickups.! :icon_wink: ibanez rg470.
Ok, I asked because of that passing through video.. sounds just like piezo pickups..
Quote from: ~arph on March 07, 2011, 11:00:49 AM
Ok, I asked because of that passing through video.. sounds just like piezo pickups..
no just bad recording...it was late at night, and i didnt monitor myself properly..(what was being recorded.) :icon_wink:
::) I meant it in a positive way :D
Quote from: ~arph on March 07, 2011, 11:11:29 AM
::) I meant it in a positive way :D
:icon_rolleyes: stick. and wrong end comes to mind... :icon_mrgreen:
Btw, in the final design you have the depth of the effect controllable by an LDR?
You could do a zvex probe style antenna too :P And then I mean, isolated Jacks and use the enclosure as antenna :icon_idea:
Quote from: ~arph on March 07, 2011, 11:19:33 AM
Btw, in the final design you have the depth of the effect controllable by an LDR?
You could do a zvex probe style antenna too :P And then I mean, isolated Jacks and use the enclosure as antenna :icon_idea:
i tried various types of sensors..including the 'proximity' control, i just couldnt get on with them, plus having to have a seperate isolated board etc..
i tried IR ones too...but all had plus and minus points to them..so ive settled for a manual control of the wah option.
the depth comes off the ldr, so does a switch and a pot to turn off ldr and go to manual filter control....half wah sustaining sound...i tried writing %^&*ed wah but it wont let me!.. :icon_mrgreen:
What type of wah circuit are you using? inductorless? transistor? opamp?
Quote from: ~arph on March 07, 2011, 11:28:54 AM
What type of wah circuit are you using? inductorless? transistor? opamp?
inductorless. opamp. morley classic wah.
i tried the coloursound...little to weak imo.
edit:
arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh my head...working out this @#$%ing switching... :icon_twisted:
almost there....a few whisky's should do it.. :icon_wink:
That's a really cool effect. :icon_cool:
Sounds great!
cheers guys... nearly done!.... :P
Sounds good.
Love that worlds fastest guitar solo :)
This is a pretty sweet effect! Lookin forward to tryin this one
this is a really cool idea, I want to make one! I never thought i'd make a wah because of the hardware difficulties.
Man, this thing sounds awesome, great job man,
Do you have a Pcb and layout yet, I want to build
this bad boy
not yet!..i got bored today , so i decided to etch my box and give my brain a day off!...
but at least now i have the box done, i'll have to get on with it!!! :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=85803.msg767593;topicseen#msg767593
That's killer man, can't wait for your pcb and layout,
thanks for the great project and sharing with us
Sounds very cool! Did I miss the schematic somewhere?
yah the schematic :D maybe you gonna surprise it rob? after you finish it? i think im gonna wait this and make it as my first wah and signature one :D sounds so damn cool! have an expression pedal too so its will be super cool :D
@rick , no you didnt miss it, havent done schemo properly yet!. its in 3 seperate parts at the moment!..
i'm working on the switching today...will post up later if all works like i want it too...
@ask, yep you could add an expression pedal option too..i already though about that.!... :icon_wink:
but for now i'm keeping it simple.and pedalboard friendly, if thats the right word for this @#$%ing @#$% of a circuit!... :icon_rolleyes:
i'm used to doing 'tiny ' ones....so bear with me ok.. :icon_wink:
hold fire guys!!!...hold........hold.........hold.....!..(braveheart!)... :icon_mrgreen:
...got the switching sussed...looks weird but it works ok.
the wah is no problem..standard morley classic (though it could do with a touch more freq/range ok.) we'll get back to that!..
anyway here is the 'pulse' part of it...with switching..it works on my breadboard with the 2 switches this way...
i apologise for the dodgy vero..but thats just for now ok!...while i get my head round it.. :icon_wink:
so to put it simply, the wah goes into the ldr..which pulses/fades on off... the pulse/trem has a speed and depth too...but not the manual wah, just the pulsing wah has depth control...
arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh my head hurts!!!!!!!... :P.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulse%20section.gif)
Can't wait to see it complete, the second video really impressed me!
My to-do list is getting longer :icon_biggrin:
Thanks deadastronaut!
P.s. I love "lullaby for the dead"!
cool, glad you liked it... :icon_cool:
schemo nearly there!...for you schematic fanatics.. :icon_mrgreen:
it dont look right on the switching on the schematic so far.....but it works!!!!....
right ive done the full schematic.... i just got to work a way of getting it up here!...its a cwz file..hmmmm.......and it wont export an image... :icon_rolleyes:
i'll try and find a pdf writer!...
Make a screenshot (ctrl+printscrn) and then paste in into your favourite Graphics tool.. (which should be GIMP of course :P )
right ok i'll try it.....never done that before...my pdf writer isnt having it today!...
Btw,
Alt+Prtintscrn only captures the active window..
great it worked..cheers man...have to remember that..top tip!. :icon_wink:
right here ya go guys!...
edit: corrected ...after arnoud spotted it... cheers man!.. :icon_wink:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulswah2.jpg)
Thanks! glad it worked out
The tremwah/pulse switch looks wrong to me... shouldn't it be opening or closing the connection between points two and three there?
yep...it should!.good catch!.... thanks i'll alter that...still getting used to schemo's.... ::)
heres a short clip of clean sound...seeing as i got carried away on the vid with distortion etc...
first clip...tremwah..then with depth.......then pulse with depth..(notice pulse is a bit quieter)... then manual wah...no trem..
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahtestclean.wav (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahtestclean.wav)
Wow ROB! nice design! looking forward on this
corrected schemo above!... :icon_wink:
right who's making the pcb then?...any offers?..... :icon_mrgreen:...
am going to mess around with the values on the wah later tonight.......try and get a bit wider range on it!...more sweep etc...
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 09, 2011, 10:27:32 AM
corrected schemo above!... :icon_wink:
right who's making the pcb then?...any offers?..... :icon_mrgreen:...
am going to mess around with the values on the wah later tonight.......try and get a bit wider range on it!...more sweep etc...
hey!i could make the pcb....but only programm i found online was pcb wizard....if you guys like it i can begin that...probably now! :icon_razz:
Ok, I just spent some time with the circuit. It's very nice.
I expanded it such:
I used two separate LDR's for the Tremolo and Wah, this way we don't get a volume loss in pulse mode.
I have an earth and space interface (antenna) controlling an LED and two LDR's pointing to that for Depth control.
I we do some smart wizardry with a rotary switch we can get the following:
1. Wah -> Just the wah controlled by the antenna
2. Wahmolo -> Wah fixed or by pot , tremolo depth controlled by antenna
3. Tremowah -> Tremolo and wah, wah controlled by the antenna, tremolo depth fixed/or with a pot
4. Tremawolo -> Wah AND trem depth controlled by antenna
5. Pulse -> Wah and trem controlled by LFO, depth controlled by antenna
My guess is that the last two sound the same. So if we drop the last one we can do this with a 4P3T.
@arnoud... :icon_eek:
were gonna need a bigger box... :icon_mrgreen:.... cool ideas!!!...what's the earth antennae?...is that like the proximity sensor?...
@tasos, go for it, i have my box ready to go already..for this version...1590b. :icon_wink:
i might have to bite the bullet and learn express pcb..or eagle!....arghhhhhh..... :P
Learn eagle
expressPCB is false economy in terms of your time
cheers hhe, i'll take a look.....i feel a steep learning curve heading my way!.... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_wink:
edit:
got bored and thought i'd do a vero version.just for the hell of it!......i'm a glutton for punishment!... ::)
not verified, but looks ok to me!..but you get a free bonus duck picture too..... :icon_cool:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/PULSEWAHVERO.gif)
Do you have a layout and pcb, or could you send the actual Diy layout creater
file, we could print the pcb from that, I don't understand vero layouts
because I can't see the traces, thanks for a great project
Ronnie
Hi ronnie,
There is no other layout then this vero layout.
As for the traces,
The horizontal lines are connected (labled with the letters a,b, c etc. )
hello....i need two things before i begin the layout...
a better quality of the schematic...[if there is this one is fine....my e-mail is available on my profile...]
and lastly i need the dimensions of the 1590b box please....
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 09, 2011, 05:32:09 PM
@arnoud... :icon_eek:
were gonna need a bigger box... :icon_mrgreen:.... cool ideas!!!...what's the earth antennae?...is that like the proximity sensor?...
Hammond BB I guess..
Yes, I am talking about the proximity sensor ala the zvex probes.. but we use the enclosure as the antenna.. (use isolated jacks!!)
By the way I replaced the 555 oscillator with a single opamp oscillator as in the Little Angel chorus. I changed some values there to increase the output level and run it through an NPN for the LFO led.
This way we only need a single TL074 :icon_biggrin: and a transisor.
perhaps a good idea to have two versions?
I'll see if I can get a schematic and layout going too.. (with my mods included)
I guess what I'm trying to say is, in the Diy layout creator program their are 3 views to choose from
under board properties, Stripboard, perfboard and Pcb, The current picture above is perfboard,
I was asking if we could see the perfboard image which shows all the traces and the
Pcb image so we could print and make the circuit, hope this makes sense,
ooops, I meant, the Picture above is Stripboard,
I wanted to see the perfboad and pcb images as well if possable
Quote from: ~arph on March 10, 2011, 08:13:47 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 09, 2011, 05:32:09 PM
@arnoud... :icon_eek:
This way we only need a single TL074 :icon_biggrin: and a transisor.
if it works as good you can post a schematic! ;)
Quote from: ~arph on March 10, 2011, 08:01:35 AM
Hi ronnie,
There is no other layout then this vero layout.
As for the traces,
The horizontal lines are connected (labled with the letters a,b, c etc. )
I guess what I'm trying to say is, in the Diy layout creator program their are 3 views to choose from
under board properties, Stripboard, perfboard and Pcb, The current picture above is Stripboard,
I was asking if we could see the perfboard image which shows all the traces and the
Pcb image so we could print and make the circuit, hope this makes sense,
No it is not three views on the same layout.. you need to create the layout for each view if you want.
Currently there is only a layout made for stripboard. You can't view this as perf or pcb by just changing the board type.
There is no perf or pcb layout made yet.
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 09, 2011, 06:40:09 PM
cheers hhe, i'll take a look.....i feel a steep learning curve heading my way!.... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_wink:
Robert, I strongly recommend diptrace. It's an awesome program with barely any learning curve. I did make my own library with the necessary components, but other than that it's been nothing but fun with this program. I have tried eagle, DIYLC and such, but this really is the best thing since sliced bread.
Nice...
I've got a Morley classic wah which I've modded and added selectable pre or post distortion. There's still some room left in the enclosure for a LFO on an extra bit of board. Hmmm... just need to find some space for the knobs.
@ronnie, thats vero for ya!.i had a go at making the vero pcb, but the way its laid out there would be a few horrible jumpers and its wide too.....we'll get there in the end ok.... :icon_wink:
@tasos.its the 1590b..i was thinking of!..nice and small and board friendly...(and mainly because ive etched 2 boxes.. :icon_rolleyes:
the inner dimensions..55 mm max width ok. for the 1590b..eddystone box...
the vero layout is to wide for a 1590b though so its got to be squeezed in a bit ok... ;)
@arnoud, cool, didnt think of plastic jacks..i see where your coming from now!...in 1 quad too....brilliant idea!...yep i think your version would have to be a 1590bb.....oh and no signal loss too....great!..
and yeah, do a scemo of yours too...excellent!
@yorick, cheers man, i'll take a peek when i get the time cheers ...
@all, i think arphs is going to be a nice project too guys, in fact i would make mine now without the pulse, as it drops in leve too much,
but all you have to do is just leave off that switch...sorted...waheeyyyyyyy..................
look forward to how this is all going to pan out...oh pan...lets make a stereo one :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: joking...for now!. :icon_wink:
Very cool, Thanks man,
Looking forward to it, cain't wait to make this one
hey...i just drawn the schem...have an eye on it before i convert that to pcb! ;)
hey...i just drawn the schem...have an eye on it before i convert that to pcb! ;)
http://img30.imageshack.us/i/pulsewahschem.png/ (http://img30.imageshack.us/i/pulsewahschem.png/)
go for it tasos!...what prog are you going to be using for pcb image?
:icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Can't wait to build this one!
hey!the pcb is chaotic and the auto placement is not working properly....i will probably use another programm...i have done a pcb of the timer....
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/8082/timerlayout.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/8082/timerlayout.jpg)
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/6861/pcbb.jpg (http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/6861/pcbb.jpg) i have also reversed it!ready to print!
GO GO GO!
Awesome
Can anyone take a look if the following schematic?
(http://s4.postimage.org/hpapu06c/pulsewah_sch.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/hpapu06c/)
I've modded depth control, wich is now on the led side, and added input and output buffers; if it is correct i can post a layout (unverified :icon_mad:)!
If arp provides his version I can make a layout as well ;)
I had a quick look, looks ok. Can't spot any errors.
I'll see if I can get a schematic together this weekend. Will do the layout myself.
cool guys!... :icon_wink:
had lots of grief with my pc today....had to do full install...arghhhhhhhhhh..still tinkering. :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 11, 2011, 10:26:11 AM
cool guys!... :icon_wink:
had lots of grief with my pc today....had to do full install...arghhhhhhhhhh..still tinkering. :icon_rolleyes:
try this: http://ninite.com/
looks good...too late though!..nevermind.... :P cheers though... :icon_cool:
i;m crossing over to win7..64bit. cubase 5/ reason / superior2.0 ezdrummer. ..great studio setup...lots to do!.. :icon_wink:
back soon.! :icon_twisted:
Those are the files for the original version, PLEASE NOTE THAT THE LAYOUT IS CURRENTLY UNVERIFIED!
I won't be able to build it for some time, so use the files only if you are willing to test and verify it!
To use the rate led as status led simply connect one of the wires to your main bypass switch!
Hope you like it!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2n14ap12c/pulsewah_original_layout.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n14ap12c/)(http://s2.postimage.org/2n15y8dk4/pulsewah_original_pcb.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n15y8dk4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2n17lrq1w/pulsewah_original_pcbcm.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n17lrq1w/)(http://s2.postimage.org/2n199b2jo/pulsewah_original_sch.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n199b2jo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2n1ckdrj8/pulswah2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2n1ckdrj8/)
If anyone's interested I can post the buffered version too, but it'll take a while to fill all the values ;)
is LDR1 just a 5mm led or is it a special optocoupler
@gnogno....nice work man, what prog did you use for that?....
@ronnie, ldr is a light dependant resistor.....
Thanks! I used eagle it's the best ;)
Quote from: gnognofasciani on March 11, 2011, 02:13:29 PM
Thanks! I used eagle it's the best ;)
Once you get used to it ... maybe
Diptrace has everything eagle has to offer and it's much more user friendly.
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 11, 2011, 01:18:04 PM
@gnogno....nice work man, what prog did you use for that?....
@ronnie, ldr is a light dependant resistor.....
Thanks Rob,
I have a few VTL5C3 photoresistors, will that work
or is it a different type,
Quote from: gnognofasciani on March 11, 2011, 11:41:42 AM
Those are the files for the original version, PLEASE NOTE THAT THE LAYOUT IS CURRENTLY UNVERIFIED!
I won't be able to build it for some time, so use the files only if you are willing to test and verify it!
To use the rate led as status led simply connect one of the wires to your main bypass switch!
Hope you like it!
(http://s2.postimage.org/2n14ap12c/pulsewah_original_layout.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n14ap12c/)(http://s2.postimage.org/2n15y8dk4/pulsewah_original_pcb.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n15y8dk4/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2n17lrq1w/pulsewah_original_pcbcm.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n17lrq1w/)(http://s2.postimage.org/2n199b2jo/pulsewah_original_sch.png) (http://postimage.org/image/2n199b2jo/)
(http://s2.postimage.org/2n1ckdrj8/pulswah2.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/2n1ckdrj8/)
If anyone's interested I can post the buffered version too, but it'll take a while to fill all the values ;)
Thanks for the layout and pcb, is their anything that shows the part values for the layout
I'll try to complete it tomorrow ;)
Thanks man, I'm gonna build it this weekend, I'll keep you posted
on your layout, we;ll see if it all works,
Thanks for getting the part values together
(http://s3.postimage.org/13l2991xg/pulsewah_original_layout.png) (http://postimage.org/image/13l2991xg/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/13l3wsef8/pulsewah_original_pcb.png) (http://postimage.org/image/13l3wsef8/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/13l5kbqx0/pulsewah_original_pcbcm.png) (http://postimage.org/image/13l5kbqx0/)
(http://s3.postimage.org/13l77v3es/pulsewah_original_sch.png) (http://postimage.org/image/13l77v3es/)
Updated files (2nd and 3rd images are the same, i just pointed out pcb dimensions)
Here's the partslist:
Partlist
Part Value
R1 100k
R2 82k
R3 470k
R4 1,2M
R5 2k2
R6 3k3
R7 6k8
R8 100ohm
R9 1M
R10 1,2M
C1 1n
C2 4n7
C3 5p
C4 6n8
C5 2n2
C6 1u
C7 470u
C8 220u
C9 100n
C10 1u
D1 RATE LED LED5MM
D2 LDR-LED LED5MM
D4 1N4001
IC1 TL081P
IC2 LM555N
Q1 BC550
RATE 4k7 LIN
DEPTH 4k7 LIN
MANUAL 25k LIN
PULSE-TREM SPST
AUTO-MANUAL SPDT
dead astronaut's scematic is going for the tl071 and 2n3904....what will the different parts offer?
Nothing in particular... just the parts I have in stock! You can use tl071 and 2n3904 (just take a look at the pinout for the transistor, I think it's mirrored)
Thanks for doing all the work, Gno! What part is used for the LDR? I have never used one before.
Thanks,
Steve
@steve like these!...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-x-Light-Dependent-Resistors-LDR-light-sensor-/300421550722?pt=UK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes&hash=item45f2851282
great gnogno...just noticed the protection diode too...great forgot about that!..good idea! :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
looks good to me,
so the buffered version, would cure the 'pulse mode volume drop then?..
@arph. if using a quad, there will be 2 opamps left over wont there?....could a simple phaser be incorporated into your design too?.....
like the phase45...again just thinking aloud!.
Quote from: ronnie on March 11, 2011, 03:17:18 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 11, 2011, 01:18:04 PM
@gnogno....nice work man, what prog did you use for that?....
@ronnie, ldr is a light dependant resistor.....
Thanks Rob,
I have a few VTL5C3 photoresistors, will that work
or is it a different type,
yep... i roll my own...led/ldr...not as posh as yours!.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 13, 2011, 06:12:48 AM
@steve like these!...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-x-Light-Dependent-Resistors-LDR-light-sensor-/300421550722?pt=UK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes&hash=item45f2851282
Thanks, Rob. Anyone have a US source for these? I couldn't find them on Mouser or Digikey.
Quote from: bluesman1218 on March 13, 2011, 01:47:18 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 13, 2011, 06:12:48 AM
@steve like these!...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-x-Light-Dependent-Resistors-LDR-light-sensor-/300421550722?pt=UK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes&hash=item45f2851282
Thanks, Rob. Anyone have a US source for these? I couldn't find them on Mouser or Digikey.
hi steve, probably at radioshack?....the usa version of our uk maplins..
they might call them photoresistors...on digikey or mouser..
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 13, 2011, 01:50:28 PM
Quote from: bluesman1218 on March 13, 2011, 01:47:18 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 13, 2011, 06:12:48 AM
@steve like these!...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-x-Light-Dependent-Resistors-LDR-light-sensor-/300421550722?pt=UK_AudioElectronicsVideo_Video_TelevisionSetTopBoxes&hash=item45f2851282
Thanks, Rob. Anyone have a US source for these? I couldn't find them on Mouser or Digikey.
hi steve, probably at radioshack?....the usa version of our uk maplins..
they might call them photoresistors...
Will check RS. BTW, dumb question coming...... does the LDR function electronically, or does it need to "see" light?
the ldr reacts to the flashing light from the led going into it...the audio is just being cut down/off when light hits it..giving the tremolo effect...
not dumb at all.. :icon_wink:
heres a video of it (ldr/photoresistor) in action..from my original video..i had it wahing..when it got dark, instead of light..though!.
http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry?feature=mhum#p/u/5/SEPIKOnpiNE
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 13, 2011, 01:24:59 PM
great gnogno...just noticed the protection diode too...great forgot about that!..good idea! :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
looks good to me,
so the buffered version, would cure the 'pulse mode volume drop then?..
It won't unless i mod the last stage to be a recovery stage (we can use a dpdt to switch to the pulse mode and select the boost mode for the last stage)...
hmmmm. ok. got you!...
i think i'll stay with the simple version for now...still sounds excellent,
to be honest the pulse bit was just added on at the last minute, just because i could!...still a good effect for home recording etc.a nice little add on, just not good for live situations on that mode. :icon_cool:
but the rest has no problemas at all as far as i can see/hear.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 13, 2011, 01:55:28 PM
the ldr reacts to the flashing light from the led going into it...the audio is just being cut down/off when light hits it..giving the tremolo effect...
not dumb at all.. :icon_wink:
heres a video of it (ldr/photoresistor) in action..from my original video..i had it wahing..when it got dark, instead of light..though!.
http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry?feature=mhum#p/u/5/SEPIKOnpiNE
Got it, Rob. Thanks. I'm assuming if I build it, I'll automatically be playing like you and David Gilmour.... unless, of course, I come down with symptom 6!
you never know... :icon_mrgreen:
Radioshack has them, thats where I got some
just a word of advice ok.... :icon_wink:
i would definately socket the ic's (goes without saying i know) ::)
but i would also socket the 2.2k that goes to the power of the 555...just as a precaution, as we know tolerances can vary...and this is crucial against any ticking problems.
i used a LOW POWER TS555CN. and have no ticking problems with ticking on this. ok... but other 555's may give out a tick.
also the 5mm leds i used are green for rate. blue for ldr..clear lense hi bright...ok guys. :icon_cool:
at least if you socket the 2.2k , you will be able to try a pot in there to get the desired anti-ticking voltage to the chip ok. (this is how i had to do it when getting it together on breadboard)
cheers guys.
@gnogno,
where does that 100nf / c9 come from...?..added dc filtering..?...
i etched a board tonight, .. trying it out..... :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 14, 2011, 11:45:08 PM
@gnogno,
where does that 100nf / c9 come from...?..added dc filtering..?...
i etched a board tonight, .. trying it out..... :icon_cool:
Yep! I should have added a resistor before the caps to make the filtering more effective :icon_redface:
Hi all!
Rob i got an expression pedal,got it from a friend traded with clone crunchbox! hehehe
By the way how can i add the expression pedal on this? connect a stereo plug from the pot?
Thanks
Quote from: gnognofasciani on March 15, 2011, 07:09:41 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 14, 2011, 11:45:08 PM
@gnogno,
where does that 100nf / c9 come from...?..added dc filtering..?...
i etched a board tonight, .. trying it out..... :icon_cool:
Yep! I should have added a resistor before the caps to make the filtering more effective :icon_redface:
i was just curious.. :icon_wink:
@ask: not sure if all expression pedals are the same wiring, but yes i would think it would go to your wah pot, via a switch...
maybe someone else could chime in on this.....but yeah it would be a cool addition/option too..
@all . got my pcb built last night...got it flashing...then got pissed with a few mates :icon_rolleyes:...trying it out today ok!...looking good so far guys... :icon_cool:
edit:...ok its working...got bad ticking though!....hmmmm... didnt tick at all on breadboard!....hmmmm.......
ticks just as the led reaches peak brightness and begins to fade....
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 16, 2011, 04:00:05 AM
ticks just as the led reaches peak brightness and begins to fade....
here is a though!...you can try a semi transparent film between led and ldr... ;D
hmmm... its mad because i stuck that 2.2k in there on the 555 power to stop any ticking... it worked perfectly for that on breadboard..
i might take it out and try a pot on there and see if i can take it down to where it might not tick..hmmm....bummer!..but hey, gnogno's pcb works!..cheers gnogno!..
just a bit of tweaking on it, and it may be ok....pretty unusable as is though!..too noisey at mo.. :icon_wink:
great! I hope it doesn't depends on my pcb :-\
Quoteedit:...ok its working...got bad ticking though!....hmmmm... didnt tick at all on breadboard!....hmmmm.......
Rob,
Just have a custom enclosure built, install the breadboard and buy another breadboard for prototyping. Simple solution to complex problem! Now just relax and have a cold pint. :icon_cool: :icon_wink:
Quote from: bluesman1218 on March 16, 2011, 09:27:40 AM
Quoteedit:...ok its working...got bad ticking though!....hmmmm... didnt tick at all on breadboard!....hmmmm.......
Rob,
Just have a custom enclosure built, install the breadboard and buy another breadboard for prototyping. Simple solution to complex problem! Now just relax and have a cold pint. :icon_cool: :icon_wink:
yeah... could do....i'll have a whisky as well, and have a think!... :icon_cool:
tried a few things out... this is behaving like a ....
heres a clip of it..
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/clickytickeybastard.wav
got to find a decent lfo with no inherent ticking, and get rid of the led/ldr i think...
tried lowering the v to the 555... no joy!..
any ideas guys?... ::)
Yes, check the little angel LFO.. or any other opamp tremolo lfo.
the 555 is notorious (at least use the CMOS version)
cheers arph,
yeah i have the cmos 555 (ts555cn)...i cured the tick on the tiny trem with the 2.2k, thought it would be ok on this. :icon_rolleyes:
its strange it all worked ok on breadboard, and i used the bb parts to build it too...
i'll have a look...
the main problem is that the lfo i was using had the advantage that it was fading the led to get that slow sweep on the wah,
rather than a on/off lfo which would be 'quack quack'.....
@arnoud: do you have a lfo diagram that can do this?..slow ramp up and down...?
@arnoud: had a look at ricks 'little angel'
i take it the lfo section is just the bottom left quater of the schematic...and just any op amp tlo72 yes?..
Why don't you first try to breadboard the 555 lfo using it externally?Maybe the ticking depends on the layout ???
You can get a decent square wave with 1 op-amp, and a decent triangle with 2. A decent sine wave takes a whole 4049.
You can get a decent sine with two opamps too.. let me try and digg that schematic up for you, I have been using that LFO for years..
Quote from: ~arph on March 19, 2011, 06:41:15 AM
You can get a decent sine with two opamps too.. let me try and digg that schematic up for you, I have been using that LFO for years..
cool, nice one arnoud...
Quote from: gnognofasciani on March 18, 2011, 01:34:02 PM
Why don't you first try to breadboard the 555 lfo using it externally?Maybe the ticking depends on the layout ???
yep i think it may be down to proximity of parts....i'll build the 555 seperately and the wah and see how that goes..
just a thought, maybe if we seperate the signal/power grounds?...hmmm...???
@hides: ive tried a few lfo's and a lot of them tick, it def needs a sine wave though for the sweep...thats why i went with the led fader circuit....
edit:ill wait to see what arnoud has...cheers guys. :icon_cool:
It's on my other computer, will probably post it later this day.. Now I'm having lunch :P
Quote from: ~arph on March 19, 2011, 06:53:55 AM
It's on my other computer, will probably post it later this day.. Now I'm having lunch :P
ok cheers man, enjoy your lunch... :icon_wink:
@arnoud. that was a big lunch.. :icon_wink:
did you find that sine lfo...?
also i was wondering how it would be wired to the wah though!...looks a bit confusing to a dumbass like me..
i looked at the phozer by runoffgroove, its similar to what i was up to, but doesnt seem to wah as much.......
and still uses opto's..which i'm trying to get away from...
Oh yeah man I'm still full..
Let me make it up to you:
(http://www.friedair.com/images/sine-lfo.png)
The non-decoupled Vref is important!! if you decouple it, it might not work.
One led is for the LDR the other a speed indicator. I used clear lense high intensity ones. (green)
cheers arnoud...i was just looking at this one, i have lots of 741's...is this any good too..?
i havent a 358 at the moment....might get a couple today at craplins..if they have em.. :icon_rolleyes:
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://ecelab.com/circuit-sine-wave-gen.jpg&imgrefurl=http://ecelab.com/circuit-sine-wave-gen.htm&usg=__-dIU84NALC83-BzCwQkYqq8J16Q=&h=370&w=350&sz=16&hl=en&start=4&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=y_8Qu62XKKdfdM:&tbnh=122&tbnw=115&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dusing%2Ban%2Bop%2Bamp%2Bas%2Ba%2Bsine%2Bwave%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26tbs%3Disch:1&ei=9NuJTb2XENSZhQeXxc2eDw
edit:aha..craplins do em... :icon_mrgreen:
ahhhh.. i'm trying to get a sine wave without using led/ldrs though!...
It is a sinewave without the leds too... you just need to buffer the signal with a transistor and then couple it to the circuit. It's a bit tricky though setting up a transistor as a variable resistor to ground.
You might want to investigate in using a PWM controller, see here:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=90416.0
And then sub the LFO part for mine..
Oh, and the oscillator you posted does not have a variable output frequency.. so no good. I do think you can sub the LM358 for two 741's it's just that the LM358 is a very good opamp for lfo's
Regards,
Arnoud
ahh i see.
will your lfo be quieter than the 555 version i did..with led/ldr.? i'm sure thats the culprit for the ticking..
i take it those caps are 220nf...
i'll get a couple of lm358n's today...try it later ok..cheers man!... :icon_wink:
Yes I expect it to be dead quiet..
cool,. thanks for your help man...appreciate it a lot... :icon_cool:
i'll try it later on...and post results...cheers. rob.
I still have to post my version. I want to build one first to be sure it is fine. Time is my enemy ;D
Quote from: ~arph on March 23, 2011, 08:44:24 AM
I still have to post my version. I want to build one first to be sure it is fine. Time is my enemy ;D
yeah yours sounded an excellent idea...looking forward to it...
i know what you mean about time....life gets in the way ironically.. ;)
hi, long time ago i started to make something similar to you idea.
someday I'll finish, i hope it's helpful to you.
(http://s1d4.turboimagehost.com/t1/6579760_LFO-WHA.png) (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/6579760/LFO-WHA.png.html)
cool. nice one ppappoo....looks good, youve got to finish that....did you ever get it going and hear it?..was there any ticking?..
@arnoud, just got your lfo working...nice..
i suspect if i want it slower to change cap values...i'll tinker with it. thanks man...(craplins only had 1 ic... :icon_rolleyes:..they live up to their nickname)...
no, it's only theory!! jajaj. i have the pcb too but for now I will not do it.
as you go with the sine wave generator?, I need one to inject a sine signal at the little angel chorus and make more "modulating"
yep sine is fine...as above... i'm trying to get it slower though at the moment..
ahh so you never got it going then...shame!..the theory looks good to me...
is that the colorsound inductorless wah...looks a lot like it...?
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 23, 2011, 10:38:15 PM
yep sine is fine...as above... i'm trying to get it slower though at the moment..
ahh so you never got it going then...shame!..the theory looks good to me...
is that the colorsound inductorless wah...looks a lot like it...?
yes, the same, but with a better lfo, I think.
in the future I'll make it.
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 23, 2011, 09:52:52 PM
i suspect if i want it slower to change cap values...i'll tinker with it. thanks man...(craplins only had 1 ic... :icon_rolleyes:..they live up to their nickname)...
Yes, all three. Or you can probably change the 100k and 150k resistors too.. As long as they keep a 1:1.5 ratio
The schem I posted is set up for a vibrato. If you raise the caps it will go slower, but the fastest speed will also be slower. So you have to find what suits your application the best.
Quote from: ~arph on March 24, 2011, 05:47:50 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 23, 2011, 09:52:52 PM
i suspect if i want it slower to change cap values...i'll tinker with it. thanks man...(craplins only had 1 ic... :icon_rolleyes:..they live up to their nickname)...
Yes, all three. Or you can probably change the 100k and 150k resistors too.. As long as they keep a 1:1.5 ratio
The schem I posted is set up for a vibrato. If you raise the caps it will go slower, but the fastest speed will also be slower. So you have to find what suits your application the best.
@arnoud. . gotcha!.so its a trade off , with fast v slow....
..i'll try that today!...in between doing stuff!...its me and my missus 16th anniversary today, so ive got to cook, clean, scrub up, and wrap stuff,
then light candles, eat, drink lots of wine, and .....breadboard in between.... :icon_wink: i'll try some 470nf's....
I believe I used 470nF too in some pedal... don't let the breadboard get in the way!
Quote from: ~arph on March 24, 2011, 09:04:28 AM
I believe I used 470nF too in some pedal... don't let the breadboard get in the way!
ha ha...i wont.. :icon_wink: yeah just tried 470nf's ideal i think...still fast too....
great news!... :icon_cool:
breaded the colorsound wah again....not the morley.. ::)
linked it up to the lfo/sine...yep!..works great and NO ticking....excellent...
the wah and sine lfo are on seperate breadoards at the moment....i'll join em up tomorrow and see how it behaves...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahtest1.wav
down n dirty... :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/wah2.wav
love it... :icon_wink:
hi guys, everything is fine and dandy, but there is a big level drop on the wah..compared to bypassed...
am going to need a buffer/boost in there...any recommendations..????
ive been using a 386 just to lift the level,for now, but i'd rather a nicer smaller buffer(recovery stage) on the output...
First of all, I hope you and the missus had an awesome anniversary, CONGRATS! Sweet clips, Rob, Can't wait to see the finished product, layout & pcb for etching! I know your enclosure looks mighty fine already.
cheers man, yeah we had a great time...hic!...plenty of wine.. :P
got to sort this clean boost out...otherwise it sounds great..
this is the wah i ended up using..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/cswah.gif)
any ideas on an ideal clean boost on the out????....
Try a bigger value for the 10k resistor between the 9v and the transistor.
cheers pappoo... i'll try it now!..
edit...
tried it with my resistor sub box...no joy...the bypass is much louder than the wah,..
pot and multimeter to the rescue!
mmmmm... pot...
:D
nope!.....
tried it from the 10nf...better level..but thin...
increasing the 47k resistor to ground at the end?
mmm bit better, but not up there yet!...
edit:
dropped the 100k at the end...to a 2.2k..much better level wise...i'll try a fatter cap with it too..
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 25, 2011, 01:57:26 PM
mmm bit better, but not up there yet!...
The 100k and 47k acts like a 147k vol control at 9 o'clock. Try with a 100k resistor an then you have a 200k vol control at 12 o'clock to be able to use a 1M resistor.
check out this thread
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=34056.0
cheers pappoo....
i'll have a read up on it...
been busy today, my mate bought a guitar off ebay, and the kid he bought it off, just put it in a gig bag...got delivered with the head snapped off the neck... :icon_eek:
it was a clean-ish break...my mate was in bits :'(...so was his guitar.. ;D...so ive been repairing that...it'll be ok.....anyway..never buy guitars without hard cases eh!... :icon_rolleyes:
i did warn him...but do people listen?... ::)
back to the wah...now... :icon_wink:
edit:
tried a few of those suggestions in the thread...cheers pappooo...
hmmm attacked it from the in...and the out..in the end..trying to get it right without it distorting..but still having a bit of thickness to it too...
going to whack a 3dpt toggle i got ages ago on my breadboard so i can hear true bypass instantly, without @#$%ing around with wires in and out...
should have done it ages ago.. :icon_rolleyes:
right. the best settings i could get/like are, and levels seem ok...
edit..
100k
47nf
=========\=======>out.
/
\
/ 100k
\
\/
lifted the volume nice.....in fact a 470nf with the 100k is nice for a full but clean sound......ive yet to try it with distortion... :icon_twisted:
i tried messing with the input, but it broke up too easy...so output mods it is...
Great!! ;)
then at the end you used a sine LFO?
yep!! :icon_wink:
hi all one question. . how do differentiate this wah and wah that has inductor?
for me.. wah with inductor has stronger and so WAAAAAAAAAA"YISH! :D rob bout you how will you differentiate your wah with th wah that has inductor?
A2
Quote from: askwho69 on March 27, 2011, 11:46:19 AM
hi all one question. . how do differentiate this wah and wah that has inductor?
for me.. wah with inductor has stronger and so WAAAAAAAAAA"YISH! :D rob bout you how will you differentiate your wah with th wah that has inductor?
A2
yeah i agree, much stronger wah...but hey, you can just use that wah with an lfo too...i think this will be a great accompaniment to a 'fasel/inductor/ wah....
which most people may have already....or a great pedal board friendly wahl if you havent...(tiny amount of pedalboard real estate ;)..)
you could just buy a wah and a tremolo of course......but wheres the fun in that?.....i get my kicks out of throwing stuff together and getting a good sound
not by merely 'replicating'...but a little innovating....or just simple @#$%ing around....if it sounds cool...thats good enough for me.. :icon_wink:
it also annoys the hell out of my missus... :icon_mrgreen:
Will there be a final layout and pcb for this project,
Thanks,
Ronnie
no!... :icon_mrgreen:
yes in time... :icon_wink:
heres the latest schematc, with the modded wah...and arnouds sine lfo....bit of a mess but you get the idea!..
ignore the depth pot....i thought id try a depth by dimming the leds...the pot should be on the positive side if anything.. :P
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahlfoine.jpg)
Excellent, may by the depth pot must be 10k and R12 1k
Quote from: ppaappoo on March 28, 2011, 07:34:09 PM
Excellent, may by the depth pot must be 10k and R12 1k
so the 10k pot on the positive side of the leds, and the 1k on the neg to ground yes?...
i'm knockng up a vero of the wah...and a seperate lfo vero too...just to get it going for now and see how it behaves when wired up...should be ok...
theres definately no ticking issues with arnouds sine lfo...great!.. :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 28, 2011, 07:52:35 PM
so the 10k pot on the positive side of the leds, and the 1k on the neg to ground yes?...
It's the same!
ok...sorry being a dumbass again!.. :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
i was jamming over some satriani backing tracks earlier with it...sounds very authentic on summer song...lead!... very nice.
ok heres the vero of the wah section...anyone see any problems with it, ive checked it over, but you know how it is!...
sine lfo section coming next...(i'm trying it all out on vero before going down the pcb route!..test test test!!!!!.... :icon_wink:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/wahvero.gif)
and heres the lfo section.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/sinelfo2.gif)
to anyone thats remotely interested...
right i thought sod it...i'm doing a pcb now...ive done the wah side and its very compact.(to me)..so the lfo should make it still quite small...not 1590a for sure..
but very 1590'able...this is my first go at a proper pcb though .i usually mess with vero..but its @#$%ing me off....so dont laugh ok!.. :-[
in o----o-----oo-----o out. thats it!.. :D.....to be continued..........
ok heres my first pcb .........messy i know...and r8 needs to join with c3...but its late and i'm knackered.. ::) and it took hours to do... :P
i like the wah section.... the lfo section could do with some tidying up a bit...(talking to myself)..again....
god knows how you guys can do pcb's without lots of jumpers.....i still had to do 2...hmmmm....
other than that, what do you guys think?...anyone?..
:O
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewah%20layout.gif)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahpnp.gif)
NOT VERIFIED!....DO AT YOUR OWN PERIL!... :icon_twisted:.....off to bed!..yawn!..
very nice, as is the response of the LFO? I mean the speed range is similar to a chorus or phaser?
rejig a bit and use R4 to jump that trace
the other jumper looks a bit more inevitable
@pappoo, the speed range is pretty good...slow-fast...
heres a clip of the slow fast ok...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/slowfasttest.wav
@HHH. hmmm...its a pain to do coz i'm using version 1, and it wont highlight the selected trace,(and there are lots) even though it highlights the solder pads when selected...the @#$%er
might have to copy/redo it into version 2 so i can easily jiggle stuff... :icon_wink:
cheers.
edit:
ok ive sorted those little bugs out...i also added a protection diode, and a 100uf for power filtering...just for the hell of it...(i always have one on my breadboard too)
what do you think guys?... 1 jumper aint too bad considering its my first go at a large pcb.. :icon_wink:
here we go!..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahPnP2.gif)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewah2.gif)
:icon_cool: or :'(
whoops double post... :icon_redface:
oh well while im here , heres a distortion clip slow-fast....
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/distortionpulsewahtest1.wav
if you want I can help by making a PCB with Eagle
cheers pappoo.
yes that would be cool., ive got my missus to print this one for me, i;ll try it and see how it goes....thanks.
ok little changes ive made before it goes onto pcb.. (ive made 2)..
manwah pot..22-25k.
im having a problem trying to get the depth led to gradually fade rather than the control bunched up one end of the pot...
ive tried a few different pot/resistor variations...basically i want the led to be totally dim to bright..but very gradual..hmm.....
@pappoo , got anywhere with your eagle pcb yet?..
Hi, check the circuit and the values, if it's all ok I'll start with the pcb
(http://s1d3.turboimagehost.com/t1/6696651_circuito.png) (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/6696651/circuito.png.html)
hi pappoo. nice one!..
the only things that pop out to me is C7 should be 10nf
and the R10 should be 47k...
otherwise good to go!...
GREAT NEWS GUYS....BUILT IT AND VERIFIED OK!!!!!!!!.....this pcb works fine ok....
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/?g2_page=2&g2_fromNavId=x02b896a8
:icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
had to jiggle the led order about but this is the final revision of it, and all works ok.
edit: using the manual wah, is a great boost for lead.... :icon_twisted:
Hey congrats! Nice work guys! What is the official latest and greatest schematic for this? I don't want to use the wrong one :)
the one above....in my gallery. :icon_wink:
Sorry but in your gallery I only see the pcb layout, I was talking about the schematic. Or maybe i'm blind... :icon_mrgreen:
whoops, oh yeah...i'm blind.. 8)
the schematic pappoo has done is correct but with these alterations ok..
C7 should be 10nf
and the R10 should be 47k... :icon_wink:
build pics and video soon!. :icon_wink:..
Quote from: deadastronaut on March 06, 2011, 11:17:04 PM
$260.00 for that...without shipping?...@#$%ing hell..what a rip!... ::)
update:
anyway...heres where ive got to now with this! project....sounds great with a bit of dirt too...
still working on the layout, had to mess around with the mode switching etc..i'm pretty sure i'll have it done soon-ish... :icon_wink:
it'll fit in a 1590b easily.. 3knobs, 2 toggles.. :icon_wink: :icon_cool:
keep em peeled!.. :icon_cool:
The idea I came up with goes back to a project where I helped out a college student with her final project in college.
I did that for free but a few years later revisited the auto wah idea because I thought it was cool sounding.
The led has to be a sine wave that can go from slow to fast with everything in between.
I will dig up my schematic to compare.
Most auto wahs are auto filters using op-amps and where I went off the typical path.
Instead I started out with a great sounding wah circuit that uses stack of dimes inductors in it.
I came up with all of this on my own and spent the time to figure it out and since time is money in capitalist America I priced the cool machine accordingly. You can buy auto wahs of all sorts for less and you can buy Wahs for as little as $40 But that doesn't make a hand made product a rip off priced higher any more than a Porche is a rip off when you can buy a Kia for much less.
I am now working to make the Pedalworx Cool Machine even cooler by experimenting with running the signal in parallel to the unaffected signal and experimenting with blending the two prior to the output stage. The idea is similar to a wet dry mix concept.
I think the original idea was conceived around 2005
Regards,
George
@george: hi ,
like you say time is money, but if that was the case with me, and the time i have put into 'pulswewah' (and many other projects)
then i would have to sell 1 for thousands if i added all the time and effort up.......and that isnt going to happen..
i do it for the fun and experimentation, and most importantly sound...not money, (i have enough of that already):icon_wink:
i'm just doing mine for pedal board friendliness,(no treadle) as i have a wah anyway!...like most people.
i wanted to keep this as simple as possible at the same time be a great project with a couple of features to share for free for people to build!....
i have no commercial agenda at all...i cant be arsed with all that!...... ;)
i apologise for calling your project a rip, but personally i wouldnt pay that price when i can get a whole multi fx board for much less..imo..
that was my real point. but hey i guess what a man charges for his time and effort is up to him...the sales of it will tell all in the end....
good luck with your stuff man, and i wish you every success..again, no offense intended, just an observation.. :icon_cool:
blimey i'll have to charge for typing too!.. :icon_wink: :icon_mrgreen:
rob.
nearly built..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P100411_08.14.JPG)
Well I think your pedal looks great.and appreciate you sharing it with the DIY community.
We all have our needs gear wise and thus our need to build.to fill those needs, as I see it.
There are two ways to skin the auto wah cat with one being a triggered type of thing and the other being the treadle.
The twin t or op amp types being the most common.
I had a bunch of op-amps laying around from doing a bunch of TS 9 to 808 conversions so I went that route.
I took my oscillator circuit from a modeling railroading project that was intended to emulate a light house.
So the light would not just go on and off but do so somewhat gradually
I still needed to modify this to work right as I was looking more for a cross between a wah and a uni-vibe, which happen to be two of my favorite effects.
I did think about using the bulb driver circuit from the univibe but then I wouldn't get rid of all the op-amps I have here.
I have been using a wah for coming up on 40years now so the auto filter thing doesn't sound like a wah to my ear due to that high resonant peak. I think of Jerry Garcia every time I hear one as well. I think of it kind of like his signature so once again I was looking for something different sound wise.
I did a eBay search and found pages of auto wash that are smaller
Here is one
http://cgi.ebay.com/BOSS-AW-2-Auto-Wah-AW2-Guitar-Effects-Pedal-/200595462235?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2eb46bd85b#ht_699wt_551
This wasn't the only smaller foot print auto wah so I guessing that your idea sounds a lot better in person.
No reason to get defensive about gear, it's all good!
Now if you only share how to become independently wealthy so that money is never an issue with us we would have it totally going on! LOL
On multi fx pedals: one band I am playing with the other guitar player uses a multi fx pedal and while it sounds good on it's own it doesn't cut through the band mix during a solo! Thus my dislike of most short of the better rack pieces which cost considerably more. So I don't see the argument but that is my ear and experience doing the talking there.
not to go off on too much of a derail here but i experienced that same 'smallness of sound' from guys using multifx prcessors for over 17 years now. they would show up to our jam nite all proud of their new kidney bean shaped wonder that sounded like tom sholz at the their house, plug into a real amp only to be totally buried on the mix. solution? go unplug them from their processor and give em a fuzz pedal and a real amp and BOOM they are back in house m-fer!
i suspect that the a to d to a to d to a conversion along with all sorts of weird buffering and compression/eq are the culprits in those multiFX. zooms are especially freaky with their eq curve and noise suppresion, YUK.
back to your regularly scheduled pulsewah thread. nice work, mr astronautman!
ha ha, nice one guys.. :icon_cool:
:yep agree about the multi fx's i hate digital, they are ok through a pa, but they always have to be gated too which ruins any subtlety in solo's etc.....thats really what got me into diy in the first place.
looking for 'that sound'...which of course we all are...(well anyone with ears!. :icon_wink:)
:the train circuits, yeah, i used a railway crossing lights circuit for a stereo/panning tremolo too....great stuff, the lighthouse circuit one sounds perfect for a sine ....nice!.
i kept messing around with different fading led circuits, and they worked fine on breadboard...till i put it all together and the notorious cmos555 ticked.which i thought i had
cured in other projects....hmmmm..
: money, its easy to make , just a lot harder to stop your wife spending it all....lol.. :icon_mrgreen:
anyway, i know we are not inventing anything spectacularly new here , but at least we are not merely replicating the same ol same old eh!...theres no enjoyment/challenge for me in that!.
and i am more of a tinkerer with ideas, and am by no means an EE...but i enjoy a bit of tinkering... :icon_wink:
cheers guys. rob.
nearly finished btw....
i dont know how i got side tracked off of the morley version, but it did seem to have a better wah than the colorsound, so i'm also working on a layout/pcb for
that version again..this first pedal is the prototype...(which my mate is begging me for already.. :icon_rolleyes:)..so there may be 2 eventual versions of it in the end...
I think the ticking is picked up by the filter circuit from the timing chip, In your circuits case.
This could have something to do with a shared power source but I think it's a lot more likely being picked up through induction.
I was beginning to believe the reason tuned filters were always used for auto wahs was because they could tune out the annoying ticking frequencies a lot easier. It took me awhile to figure out but I finally nailed it by added small pf caps to Q1 & Q2 of the wah circuit.
I took a few pix using the cell phone and will post them if you want to see what my pedal looks like. I did the Cool Machine two different ways. One was in a wah shell and the other a Hammond box with the pix being of the Hammond version.
You posted something about using CMOS chip to prevent ticking.....did that work or not?
I will post the light house circuit too if you want.
On the univibe side I also came up with an idea, drew it out but never tried it. The idea was to improve the out of phase cancellation of this circuit in a very simple way. I will get to the breadboarding of it and if it works like I think it will work I will put it up as well.
FYI, the reason to put a pedal up for a high price is twofold. One is that it takes a bunch of time to build and two is that it limits how many I sell which frees me up to do a bunch of other things. ;-)
hi george,
i sorted the ticking out on another project,i lowered the voltage to the cmos 555 and it cured it, but it didnt work the same on this one..so went for a different sine lfo....
may have to give your pf cap idea a go..
yeah be great to see ya pics...and the lighthouse circuit..cool man!..
on the price of things you have spent time developing...yep i do agree!.... :icon_wink:...
phewwww finally got round to finishing the pedal off today, amongst finishing a guitar neck repair.and other stuff......(glad thats over)..
heres the pics guys.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P110411_16.27.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P110411_16.25.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P110411_16.23.jpg)
How did you do the lettering and design work?
Love the guitar/design!
Is that silk screened or a clear label?
Looks nice
Is there room for a battery?
Have any gut shots?
Quote from: GBlekas on April 11, 2011, 03:59:36 PM
How did you do the lettering and design work?
Love the guitar/design!
Is that silk screened or a clear label?
Looks nice
Is there room for a battery?
Have any gut shots?
hi man, the lettering is etched into the aluminium with ferric chloride..same as pcb's.toner method.. then etch is filled with black paint...sanded...
then laquered over to stop the aluminium oxidising and going dull...
no battery..no room.. ;)
the guts are quite :icon_redface: :icon_mrgreen:
but here ya go..very untidy due to having to pull it out and do it twice...one of my leds decided to not work after i installed it.. which in turn stopped the ldr/led too.. ::)
dont laugh!... :D
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P110411_17.06.JPG)
If you could give me more info on the box etching I would appreciate it as I would love to try that out some time.
In your box I think what I may have tried is using double face tape over the pots and attaching the board there.
Then raising the jack and stomp switch to create a cavity for the battery.
DC power jack may be easier to deal with if it was right in the top middle so it would lay between the pots.
I started using Switchcraft closed type jacks as they seem to take up less room in a box. Also if you lay them close to the top side of the box the box itself keeps them from moving/spinning.
The top of this pic is what I ended up using and the bottom is the 555 chip which I decided against.
I put yours in the middle because I found I had to add a 1 meg pot between the stages like you did.
I also found that in series with a 75k resistor was just about perfect.
The ticking I experienced would not happen until I put the bottom plate of the wah on so this proves to me that it was being picked up through induction and how I got to modify the wah circuit to get rid of the ticking. I never thought to lower the voltage to the oscillator but that's a cool idea.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/30rtwgh.png)
Here is what the box version looks like outside and in.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/3169sph.jpg)
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2w6a2c9.jpg)
As you can see I was thinking univibe by the speed knob.
Here is a quick noodle with the pedal.
I reversed the clip midway to see what that would sound like.
I think, in the end, I managed to get a sound I had not heard before, which is what I was after.
http://pedalwor.startlogic.com/sounds/Les_Wah.wav
What's weird about the clip is backwards kind of sounds like a mess while forwards sounds backwards to me.
Listening to your videos now....I think I like all your stuff! :icon_mrgreen:
ha ha, cheers, and yep i have gone blind 8) :icon_mrgreen:
there is a thread on here all about etching boxes,by the master of etching slade...here is the 'etched enclosures' thread btw..
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=85803.0
its the same way you do a pcb, laser toner print your image (backwards) sand your box..clean..then iron on the image..let cool, then peel off..
any spots that didint get covered by the toner use nail polish on..put littlematch sticks onthe face of the box in unetchable parts to support the box..
mix up some strong ferric, lay the box in it face down, agitate, for around 20minutues..then pull out and rinse and use toothbrush to get in the nooks n crannies...
then sand again, spray or dawb paint into the etch then sand again..its all in the preparation really...i like to laquer mine to keep em shiny too...thats about it......
but there is a pdf on here somewhere showing all stages of it...i'll see if i can find it ok..
here ya go...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/%5BTutorial%5D%20Making%20a%20Multicolor%20Etching.pdf
: anyway, yeah pedal space was a concern, but i never use batteries only a psu...and it was still cramped.. :icon_rolleyes:
thats interesting about the ticking only when the bottom went on...hmmmm....
you pedal looks nice and simple.. sounds great! thats definately a nice/better sweep too....... :icon_cool:..
it has more of a sine like my original 2nd video using the 555 led fader..its much more of a sweep than the sine i'm using now...i much prefer the 555 sine but its just
that damn ticking...hmmmm...
i still have the one i knocked up with the 555, so i may have to bastardize it a bit.. ;D
Try powering up your oscillator with a bettery and the twin t circuit with another battery.
Don't share ground or any of that and see if you still hear the ticking.
If so it's induction
At that point it could be a layout issue..
Bread board each separately with only the led and photo cell near each other.
I would get the ticking with the bottom late on so I would slowly put it on until the ticking appeared and that brought me to the transistor Base to collector with a 51 pf cured the issue
Thanks for the link ....that etching is crazy cool...didn't realize it would work on aluminum!
Quote from: GBlekas on April 12, 2011, 11:20:58 AM
Try powering up your oscillator with a bettery and the twin t circuit with another battery.
Don't share ground or any of that and see if you still hear the ticking.
If so it's induction
At that point it could be a layout issue..
Bread board each separately with only the led and photo cell near each other.
I would get the ticking with the bottom late on so I would slowly put it on until the ticking appeared and that brought me to the transistor Base to collector with a 51 pf cured the issue
Thanks for the link ....that etching is crazy cool...didn't realize it would work on aluminum!
yep i breadboarded the wah and lfo on seperate boards, and there was no tick at all when i first tried it all...lust the led facing the ldr on the other board..
so its definately induction..(which i dont quite understand).. :icon_wink:
ahhh 51pf i'll try that asi still have the gnognofasinii layout built...cheers for the tip ...i'll give it a go...
yeah etching is the nuts...as long as the toner is nice and thick(best quality print)..but i still cover larger areas of non etched sections with nail varnish just to stop any tiny pitting..
safe than sorry etc...
cheers man.rob.
Let me know how it works out for you.
That ticking drove me crazy! :P
hi man, just found a good led fading circuit....goes from bright to dim to of and back in a cycle over 4 seconds..
got it on bread at the moment, cant get the bugger to work yet... :icon_rolleyes: when i do i'll mod a speed control on it too...
heres a video of a similar one...using the lm358
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ys8ly6rArkM&feature=related
here ir the scheme!!! for that led fade.
(http://s1d5.turboimagehost.com/t1/6807548_PCB_del_chorizo.png) (http://www.turboimagehost.com/p/6807548/PCB_del_chorizo.png.html)
cheers pappoo, yeah i saw that very one, i dont have a 1458 though!...
edit: will that work with a lm358n?...
edit:..just checked alternatives...looks like it might be ok...get back to ya'll soon...
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 13, 2011, 06:15:12 PM
hi man, just found a good led fading circuit....goes from bright to dim to of and back in a cycle over 4 seconds..
got it on bread at the moment, cant get the bugger to work yet... :icon_rolleyes: when i do i'll mod a speed control on it too...
heres a video of a similar one...using the lm358
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ys8ly6rArkM&feature=related
Cool but way too slow as is.
I wonder if with two discharging caps if it will have even more of the ticking issue...maybe not the way they are set up and the value of those caps
Is ppapou Greek or what?
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 13, 2011, 06:43:17 PM
cheers pappoo, yeah i saw that very one, i dont have a 1458 though!...
edit: will that work with a lm358n?...
edit:..just checked alternatives...looks like it might be ok...get back to ya'll soon...
that circuit has given me the same person who uploaded the video. Any dual op-amp will work
@gblekas, i'll mess around with the cap values and try a pot for speed...
@cheers pappoo, i'm trying it now...cool. thanks guys.. (small world eh?)... :)
edit: yay...got it going..its really not that slow....i'll tinker with it.. :icon_wink:
edit: swapped the 100k.. for 82k..much better, the led actually goes off...with the 100k it was nearly off....but not quite..
now to get the speed slow and fast....hmmmm....tinker tinker... :)
aha..swapped that bottom 47k for a 100k pot...great..slow and fast......great!... :icon_mrgreen:
tried a 200k pot...great for really slow...like a slow push forward and back on a wah treadle.(slow phaser type lfo)...hmmmm....and good fast still too...
also hi bright blue seems better for fade off/ fade in..more defined visually......better than red...
great little circuit guys!...much much better with the wah....no tick either.....i'm a happy bunny!.. :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
edit: stick 100uf's in there and a 1M pot and you can make a cup of tea and drink it before it comes back on.... :icon_mrgreen:
one thing with that latest scheme, leds have to be parallel, not in series...works fine, will light 4 hi bright leds if need be... :icon_cool:
i'll bread the morley again today, and try it out...and compare to the coloursound wah.... :icon_cool:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/PCB_del_chorizo.png)
22k in place of the 47k, as per ricks suggestion...cool. cheers rick. :icon_wink:
You can use that same NPN trick with the sine LFO I posted.
The LED fade cicuit you have now is a triangle LFO. Just use what you like the best.
@arph, gotcha, yep i read it was a triangle wave, but it dims and brightens very evenly....sort of siney.. ::) :icon_mrgreen:
its a variation on the one you posted..
i readjusted the schemo above...
@arph, what could i do to this schemo, to make it sine and triangle?....just a thought?
Try reducing the 47k (between pins 7 and 3) to 22k.
cheers rick, i'll try it now...thanks man.
cool, yeah seem more smooth, evenly pulsed with a 22k in there!...
led doesnt go right off now ... 8)
thanks rick,
Hi m8
I'm following this since couple of days and breadboared the latest LFO posted, it works and having a Proel Wah gut laying arounb I just sub the pot with an LDR and all is working fine (thank Rob and all!).
Just one thing I think is needed.. ok I'm not really a good guitar player and wah is making my playing even worse! but I think we need 2 buttons (momentary) in this effect, one to keep the LED on and one to keep it off. I saw people using the wah someting keep the toe down or up toward the end of the solo (or phrase..), so with these 2 push buttons you can stop the waving and stick to the choosen position for the time needed.
Just a think m8s
Cheers
Armando
hi armando, welcome aboard the crazy wah thread... :icon_mrgreen:
yeah sounds good to me, on the original pulsewah, it has the option of a manual control too, so you could switch between the pulsing,
and a normal wah as well...glad you got it going... :icon_wink:
edit: which wah did you go with?..morley or colorsound?..
ok..the penny just dropped!. ::) ..as arph said a while ago..
why not use a quad op amp tl074, 1 for wah, 2 for lfo...what could the other opamp be usefull for?..
suggestions..!!!!...seems a waste of 1 op amp...
bearing in mind this is in the front of a chain...like a normal wah!...hmmm...
and also bearing in mind, to me it would be a @#$%ing nightmare to do a pcb layout... :-\
just thinking aloud!... :P
id use at the end of the chain :P
well that opamp cuold be used, i think, as ...
an opamp w/optocoupler in the feedback loop to make for a switchable tremolo
or
a 2nd LFO that modulates the original LFO
or
a little distortion module, so the pedal would already have the wah+disto pack
or
to replace the NPN if it doesn't achieve the full range of the wah travelling (or to replace it anyways :D)
or
to make an envelope follower :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 14, 2011, 09:08:12 AM
ok..the penny just dropped!. ::) ..as arph said a while ago..
why not use a quad op amp tl074, 1 for wah, 2 for lfo...what could the other opamp be usefull for?..
suggestions..!!!!...seems a waste of 1 op amp...
bearing in mind this is in the front of a chain...like a normal wah!...hmmm...
and also bearing in mind, to me it would be a @#$%ing nightmare to do a pcb layout... :-\
just thinking aloud!... :P
You may want to take another look at the Phozer (http://runoffgroove.com/phozer.html).
Yes, as in: use that spare opamp for a second filter :D
Beware noob selfthinking ahead
add another LFO... playing with it just now... it's a little bit boring that wah wah wah wah "on time" like a methronome!.... may be a RND LFO, is that even possible ?, just to enter in the middle of the fading out? hope this is clear, a sort of "reprise"... befere le LED dim it brings the LED again to full light!
Rob, it's a Proel Wah, made in Italy, it's inductorless, so it could be a copy/clone/similar of either a Morley or Colorsound
@all , great suggestions guys..
@arph, what another wah?..
@armando, yeah could be tedious, but it has the option of a fixed wah too, which i like, it has that nice sustain you get with a wah half on..i like that!..very sustainy..
and of course the depth conbtrol on the pulsing wah too...nice for clean or dirt..
maybe another thicker wah would be cool, or another lfo...hmmmm.. choices...
just what exactly would an ' envelope follower' do to this?..sorry for dumbass question?.. :-[
aha....yeah looks and sounds cool. 2 wahs set at different freq's.......i like the 'phaze' sound too...nice.
using 2 tl072's...hmmm....i feel a breadboarding session coming on....
what are the 2 switches doing?...
scratch that!....gotcha!. :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
ok i'll try those 2 wahs out, and use this lfo i have breaded at the moment...but that lfo does sound smooth,
nice one b tremblay.. :icon_wink:
be interesting to have seperate resonance pots to see how that sounds too...hmmm...
envelope follower could interrupt/over power lfo to led so each note/chord would trigger an extreme that faded to lfo rate... if you see what i'm trying to say... or trigger a separate led/ldr to control lfo rate or resonance...
*edit* or all of the above via switches
erm.....i sort of get ya... :P :icon_mrgreen:
sorry... brain no work well today... you could bread board a mock up with your 386 sound to light - have that shine on an ldr across your 555 rate pot or on to the wah freq pot or both. hope that makes a bit more sense. need sleep...
ahhhh yes, gotcha, in laymans terms.... :icon_mrgreen:
cheers guys, its hard being dumb...i appreciate your patience!.. :-* :icon_mrgreen:
right guys i'm back.... :icon_twisted:
heres a different setup, i butchered/bastardized the 'phozer' and used just the 1 wah and tinkered with it a little..with a different lfo....schematic soon...
its a nicer thicker wah, with a longer sweep on the lfo...and some crazy fast sounds that go into the realms of the bizarre.... :icon_wink:
there is no depth control on this clip...yet!.. ;).. i like it...a lot...very addictive when soloing/noodling... :icon_twisted:
i just need to sort it out when its clean as there is a little dirt on it... ::)
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewah%7E2.mp3
ok i stiil have one half of a tl072 left over...seems a shame to waste it...
i'll look around.. but if anyone has any ideas/examples of something to add using 1 opamp then shoot!... :icon_wink:
Could be the cliip, but I like the sound of the other one better, this one has way too much high frequencies. Reminds me of that horrible malmsteen sound :-\
Sounds like the lfo is not quite symmetrical either.
hmmm....
yeah i found most of the lfo's i tried to be : led on, more than off...unequal....hmmm....
(i'm just going through my stereo) :icon_wink:
You could shift the center frequency of the wah down a bit, so the max freq. is a bit lower.
would that be in the 't' section i guess!...
i have 2 x 82k's..
and a 10nf and 4.7nf in the 'T'....
Yes, that would be tweaking the T, try increasing the caps a bit.
yep, will do...
found the culprit...check out the 'phozer' its the 100nf and the 39k that come off the 75k's...thats defining the hi/lo too...
ive used 82k's...
on the (leftwah) t section its 2x10nf's...doesnt this make 5nf really, if i remember correctly..?
hi guys,
is it possible to get an lfo out of one side of a tl072...?
so the wah is out of the one side?.and the lfo is out the other side.....or do i absolutely need a whole tl072 for lfo?....hmmm....
You can try to make a single op amp phase shift oscillator (PSO) never seen one with opamps though. But if it works with a transistor it might also work with an opamp. Look for the heartthrob tremolo, or the schaller tremolo. Or one of frequency centrals tube tremolo/panners. There are some PSO oscillators there.
cheers!... the hearthrob sounds good....
aha, found this...one of ricks...figure 1. is a 1 op amp lfo...i'll give it a try n see... :icon_wink:
http://circuitworkshop.com/forum/index.php?topic=215.0
Be aware that it can't drive an LED directly, you need a transitor or fet as in one of the other LFO's you tried.
right...ok...hmmm..
looks like i'll have to add that on the end then...cheers.
will this lfo be too choppy do you think?...(it says its from the phaze 45...whch is quite smooth)
or should i just go with the phozer lfo?..that seems quite smooth up n down...
It's your pick ;)
yeah right... :P
i'll try this simple 1 op version first....could be what i'm after...it''ll make things more compact too... :icon_wink:
ok got it going...but its way too fast..
i changed c2 to a 470uf..still fast... :-\
edit:
ok got it going slow...but now it wont go fast and no real control on the pot....hmmm... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
The Tone God's Bullitt uses a single opamp PSO: http://tech.thetonegod.com/bullitt/bullitt.html It uses a second opamp for buffered vref, but would probably work just as well (?) with just a voltage divider plus cap vref.
Ha cool, so I have seen one before.. ;D
aha.cheers rick....so im guessing i'm looking at the lower left section of that...then adding the 2n3904 and led onto it..
: the earlier lfo is working much better now..btw!.. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 28, 2011, 11:24:58 AM
aha.cheers rick....so im guessing i'm looking at the lower left section of that...then adding the 2n3904 and led onto it..
Yup, the C3/C4/C5 part. PSO's can be identified by the three caps. You'll see PSO's made using a tube (usually 12AX7 IIR) in old tremolo tube amps, though they have to be high voltage to work in that case. You can also make PSO's using a transistor or opamp. The three caps need to be non-polarised as I understand it, though TTG's labelling doesn't make that clear. The three caps don't all need to be the same value, you can tweak values to alter the range. I'm guessing that the opamp PSO might well run a LED without having to use a 2n3904 to buffer it. But do let me know either way.....
cheers man...
i'll crack on with it...much appreciated..i'll break out my other breadboard... :icon_wink:
btw, just changed the led in that other lfo from an orange to a blue (brights) even better... :icon_cool:
i'll keep you posted!..
ok , i'm a little confused... ::)
do i take the voltage divider off the other op amp and connect it to this?...and how?...or use it as is?...without it?..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P280411_16.09.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/967492/PSOs.JPG)
awww nice one..cheers rick your a diamond. :icon_wink:
i'll give it a go!. thanks man.
hmmm tried the pso isnt doing anything, just lights up....
tried different variations of caps... :-\
Hmm, did you try both polarised and non-polarised caps? It could be that the LED is stopping the LFO working if hooked up directly, so you might need that 2n3904 after all. Or an opamp unity gain buffer. It's also worth trying the opamp buffered vref TTG used in the original schematic, or alternatively try different values for the resistors in the passive vref. When trying to design something to work with a minimum amount of parts it's often best to use a maximum amount of parts first to get the circuit working. Then take stuff away and see what happens. You'll learn what's essential and what's not.
cheers rick, yep tried different caps (polar) etc, i did try the 2n3904 out of curiosity,
one thing i noticed was when i took the 9v off the ic the led had a wobble to it then faded...so it looks like its trying
to oscillate, bu not quite there... i was up till 3 in the morning trying to get the bugger working... :icon_rolleyes:
i'll give it another crack today with your suggestions... cheers rob.
BTW, are you wedded to using the LED/LDR? I assume what you're after here is a dual opamp swept twin t filter, one half of the opamp an LFO, the other half the filter? You should be able to do this with a BJT or possibly a FET in place of the LED/LDR. Hvae a look at how the Dr.Q/Nurse Quacky implements env control of it's filter using a BJT - maybe you could try similar, but using the P45 type LFO?
no im not wedded to the led/ ldr. in fact that would be a nice change from messing around with leds...
as long as i could still have a speed indicator led , thatd be fine...
cheers rick, i'll have a look and see whats going on in them!..(i built the quacky ages ago)
i'll try this one out a bit more and see how it goes...it nearly flashed a moment ago... ;D
This thread comes to mind; http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=81602.0
yeah i remember that.....nice sweep...whoooooooooooooooooshyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy .cool.
thats what im after, a nice long sweep.. to a fast wobble... :icon_mrgreen:
ok i went back to my original lfo..and tweaked it around..couldnt get the other bugger to work properly...not perfect, but this will suffice...(well it works).. ;D
i tweaked the wah freq too, a bit less shrill imo...full sweep on hammer'ons at the end...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/waH3.mp3
note: my boogie was being a sod...wanted to be on full gain, , got to sort that glitch out... :icon_rolleyes:
ok, i'm back on this again... ::)
got a nice lfo sorted out...smooth ramp up n down on the led....much much better..
i nicked the lfo from the 'phozer' (thanks runoffgroove ;)) and changed a couple of parts to more my liking....
i took the 10nf out..and put a 1M resistor there...
been trying to get that equal slow fade up n down for ages...without the led being on more than off...!!!!...
sorted! at last.... ;)...used 2 leds..one for ldr..one for indicator.. using 2 helped the lfo to be more to my liking too......(i fancy i'll be using this lfo in future .....nice and equal up/down..)...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lfopulser.jpg)
Could you post your completed schematic?
i'm in the middle of doing it at the moment....pcb and schemo.... :icon_wink:
give me a few days...and it'll be up n running..
heres what it sounds like now...dr boogie...with pulsewah... :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahtest1.mp3
Very cool...now what I noticed is that the effect is more obvious with the rate all the way up.
Otherwise I am kind of hearing the effect with more of the delay coming though in your clip.
I suggest trying to move the LED a little further away from the photo cell to get the deeper effect happening.
Check this clip/demo of the Cool Machine out where I tweaked the distance of the LED and photo cell.
http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?v=ILTJ76MetE4
Nice playing, by the way! :~)
@gblekas, linko not workingo!.^.. :icon_mrgreen:
i'll give the led spacing a try....it isnt shrink wrapped yet!...i just cover it with a black pen top... ;)
@all...
is there any reason i shouldnt use a tl074 for both wah and lfo on the same ic?...would/could there be any noise issue with this?....
i read somewhere that its not a good idea!!!!..hmmmm...
i was trolling around...and found this!...hmmmm....@#$%. :icon_rolleyes:
http://www.google.co.uk/webhp?hl=en#hl=en&safe=off&site=webhp&sa=X&ei=LbMBTtrLFY2XhQfVhcW4DQ&ved=0CBgQvwUoAQ&q=PULSE+WAH+WAH&spell=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=46dceea8d8f599d7&biw=1920&bih=968
so due to me not wanting to get into legal wrangles over names etc i will rename it, and start a fresh thread ok.....
Aron: if you want to shut this thread down (for any potential legal reasons) feel free, i'll start another 'legal' renamed thread ok!.it doesnt bother me as ive totally redesigned the project anyway ok...
please pm me on your decision ok!. thanks rob.
ok problem solved...
this thread and project will now be known as
'LIGHTWAH'. for those interested. (thanks aron).
so there you have it.
heres a demo of just the manual light wah section, it will still have the lfo too of course...for the pulsing trem type effect...but as an add on an external ldr with light sensitivity control too....for a bit of manual invisible wahness....for fun!.
the light sensitivity control, also doubles as a fixed wah too...for a kind of treble boost.....it will all still fit in a 1590b...lfo is sorted...wah is sorted....just need to get the final layout done!..and a good durable way of fixing an ldr to the box.... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
excuse my old socks btw...... ::)...
dr boogie+lightwah...no amp...crap camera..and a cat.... ;D
schemo/layout soon-ish... ;)
i don't think you have to rename your pedal, the wah you posted is made by a company called pulse, and it's their wah. It's not actually called "Pulsewah" like yours is, not to mention yours is LFO controlled and a completely different circuit.
by the way, love the work you're doing here!
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 21, 2011, 03:49:26 AM
@gblekas, linko not workingo!.^.. :icon_mrgreen:
i'll give the led spacing a try....it isnt shrink wrapped yet!...i just cover it with a black pen top... ;)
Thanks, Try these
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VED6gXc0-x0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ILTJ76MetE4&feature=related
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 20, 2011, 11:09:59 AM
i'm in the middle of doing it at the moment....pcb and schemo.... :icon_wink:
give me a few days...and it'll be up n running..
heres what it sounds like now...dr boogie...with pulsewah... :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/pulsewahtest1.mp3
wow nice playing there rob! i like it..
Yeah, nice sounds & playing!
Good stuff.
Gertrude seems to like it too. :icon_biggrin:
wait wasn'
t this called pulsewah before? :)
@chris, yeah i see ya point..... but its a little too close for comfort to me!..
@george. yep gotcha...i pulled them apart a bit...much better...thanks man.
@vendeatta. yep it was!... ;)
cheers guys.....i'll crack on with the schemo today ok...
then maybe someone more used to pcb design and quicker can knock one up!...(to fit in a 1590b) :icon_wink:
ok had a think....oh no you say... ::)
the light wah is fine for all light conditions as its adjustable.......but not when its dark!..(i know obvious)
so heres the deal, we/i want an ldr on top or even front edge..but we/i need an led to shine across it when it is dark and to be able to break the beam of light with a foot...(when dark)
any weird and wonderful ideas?....
i thought of having the on/off led as this source, which would make perfect sense...and thought about one of those right angled led (pcb mount led) things...facing the ldr...
but then it would sort of be just on/off wah...what do you think?...
hmmmm.....
how about a usb socket to provide power for a laptop light (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=usb+light+for+laptop&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1024&bih=681&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=fi)? or roll your own with stiff single core wire, entwining two strands together, super bright led one end, 2.5 or 3.5mm plug for power from pedal socket at the other? plug it in and bend into position over the ldr with enough clearance to waggle a foot in. maybe a wire coat hanger would be better. hmmm, not making sense yet - need more coffee...
*edit* ...or embed an led in the sole of your shoe - a free pair of deadastronauts patented lightwah led flip-flopsTM with every pedal. :icon_mrgreen:
yeah i hear ya!....detachable for lighting conditions...(i have one of those book reading clip on leds)
hmmm i need more coffee too... :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 23, 2011, 06:36:16 AM
ok had a think....oh no you say... ::)
the light wah is fine for all light conditions as its adjustable.......but not when its dark!..(i know obvious)
any weird and wonderful ideas?....
Neither weird nor wonderful...but a practical solution would be to use amplitude modulation. Basically, a carrier signal drives an infrared LED ....your foot,a paddle...whatever, reflects this infrared light back onto an LDR....you then amplify the rx'ed signal & then filter out the carrier, which only leaves you with the 'control voltage' - this method stops ambient light affecting the results.
The first hit google threw up after typing the above is this (which goes into more detail) ... http://ikalogic.com/ir_prox_sensors_40khz.php
hmmm...hi gurner.
wouldnt that be just be on and off action though?...rather than a swell and fall of the signal..wah?..
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 23, 2011, 08:15:22 AM
hmmm...hi gurner.
wouldnt that be just be on and off action though?...rather than a swell and fall of the signal..wah?..
No it's not an on/off switch, it's a swell control voltage...up/down.
The pickup (LDR) circuit would receive the 'carrier' signal (large magnitude carrier if your foot is close, & obviously small magnitude/none if your foot is far away)....what you end up with once you filter out the carrier is a DC level which directly relates to how close/far your foot is away from the light source/sensor....but ambient light would not (siginificantly) affect this resulting DC level
You then use the extracted DC level as a control voltage to control whatever you wish.....wahtastic.
right...gotcha!...gonna need a bigger boat box then .. :icon_mrgreen:
so the range could be adjustable then?..edit: scratch that... read it... :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 23, 2011, 08:39:25 AM
so the range could be adjustable then?..
Not sure I understand your angle ....you end up with a DC level directly proportional to how close your foot/hand/wife is to the light source/sensor (whcih obviously must be colocated)...How 'large' that DC level range is in reality, can be massaged with an amplifier & or a Pot. You may even be able to buy a solution in an IC (I've not checked) which handles all the carrier generation/demodulating (TV remotes?)
i'm not letting my wife near it... ;D
hmmm...ok, i get it now, sort of....i know the ir sensor is on the bottom right of that schematic...
but what is..
w4
w3
w1
w2...
sorry man, just new to sensors/IR... :icon_redface:
please dont say this needs a 555....@#$%ing ticking.. :icon_mrgreen:
It's not clear to me either (it looks like an edge connector feeding stuff onto the circuit perhaps?)
Anyway, here's an easier on the eye implementation...
http://freecircuitdiagram.com/2010/04/25/infrared-ir-proximity-distance-sensor/
(as it goes you could use a 555 timer as the carrier .....Tick-tastic! Fortunately, at 40khz-50khz you won't hear the ticks!)
ARGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH............
ive spent ages on getting my lfo just right avoiding a 555 at all costs......
ive got so many projects that 'tick' i feel like a @#$%ing clockmaker.... ;D
anyway, that original sensor looks cool, works even in sunlight/dark etc and importantly adjustable......i just looked at some simpler ones, but they say they still react to ambient light....hmmmmm......
maybe an optical filter over the ir leds to block as much ambient light as possible?
http://www.pixiq.com/article/create-your-own-ir-filter (http://www.pixiq.com/article/create-your-own-ir-filter)
Quote from: artifus on June 23, 2011, 09:56:00 AM
maybe an optical filter over the ir leds to block as much ambient light as possible?
http://www.pixiq.com/article/create-your-own-ir-filter (http://www.pixiq.com/article/create-your-own-ir-filter)
That wouldn't work here...the ambient light causing the problem is the 'IR' component contained in the ambient lght ....all you'd be doing with an IR filter is blocking the non-IR ambient wavelengths (which aren't the problem anyway) & still letting the ambient IR through (which is causing the grief) along with your wanted IR...so you're no further forward.
hmmmm....
this guy gets his simple one to work in the dark too....schematic link in info...
but its on/off....not up down....cool though.......hmmm....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sR0uQbD6D2E&NR=1
ultrasonic?.... ;)
right ok, had a think about this...the ldr side of it is ok really...coz when in dark situations you just flip the lfo wah on....simple..(i'll give IR a go soon though i fancy..could be handy for other stuff too.. cheers Gurner for your ideas! and patience ;))
and after all i wanted this to fit in a 1590b!....it has 4 pots now.....speed,depth,sensitivity,volume...
i used one half of a tlo72...(didnt have an 071)...same size anyway...(if anyone has any ideas for the unused opamp they are welcome to add it ok )
the one and only tiny niggle that gets me is when i turn the sensitivity full, it gets brighter and brighter as it should, but on the very last bit 'full turn' it cuts off the led?...should i use a log maybe?...hmmm..
so here is the final 'LIGHTWAH' shematic...untidy i know but hey...this is how it is!..and it works fine!......anyone fancy a weekend 1590b pcb designing project?... :icon_wink:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LIGHTWAHSCHEMATIC1.jpg)
\m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 24, 2011, 03:19:28 AM
so here is the final 'LIGHTWAH' shematic...untidy i know but hey...this is how it is!..and it works fine!......anyone fancy a weekend 1590b pcb designing project?... :icon_wink:
..probably not for the weekend...... but in the near future!! :D :D :D
^ dont be lazy... ;D
Just one small bit of feedback .....it's that little more difficult to establish quickly what's what in your circuit (not impossible, just a bit more time consuming) due to using an actual opamp package in your schematic vs a normal opamp symbol .
You'll probably get more input from others if they don't have to go & seek the connectivity out. Ok, so TL074s are very common and probably most on here know which pin is which off pat, but it still helps with the overall flow of the eye to use symbols in a schematic (as you have with the resistors, caps, trannies etc) for the ICs too.
That said...good show....as the saying goes "the boy done well!" (nice playing too ...even if I could design the best effect ever to be made - it would sound like sh*t when I demoed it!!)
Quotei used one half of a tlo72...(didnt have an 071)...same size anyway...(if anyone has any ideas for the unused opamp they are welcome to add it ok )
i vote envelope detector. maybe take a look at nurse quacky (http://www.home-wrecker.com/nurse-quacky.html).
infra red wise i stumbled upon this (http://www.sharpsma.com/webfm_send/1203) recently. not cheap. but there are some d-beam like schemes out there also.
rob the half t072 can be use as bias? example connect the pin 5 to 9 volts and connect the 6 and 7 pin and output voltage is pin 7 = biased :D i got it from the uproar schematic from madbeanpedals.com
by the way the wah is very fantastic rob its super.. this well be the time to build this circuit.. but... i was very confused on how they work?
"Questions"
wrapped heat-shrink - lfo LED and LFO LDR?
Wrapped Heat-shrink - Footwah led and foot Ldr or "IF" we put it in the enclosure this 2 components should be outside the enclosure?
so the external LED = d3 is just a indicator for the LFO right?
How about the d1? i dont get the idea how the LED light and turn on and off? relly horrified me :icon_twisted:
Lastly what Transistors did you used?
Hi m8s
here is the redrawn schematic (with the right symbols! ;D), if someone can check it for me (values... connections...) I may go on with a PCB layout.
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/arma61/LIGHTWAH2.jpg)
Here is a direct link, I dont think the above image is clear enough
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/arma61/LIGHTWAH2.jpg
and here is the link to the ExpressSCH .sch file
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=45544&g2_GALLERYSID=c7b201ca6db94acce063954cb4826147
Thx
btw rob I like your guitar tuner! ! ! !
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 24, 2011, 03:19:28 AManyone fancy a weekend 1590b pcb designing project?... :icon_wink:
This could fit in a 1590A ::)
;D
Hi there!
I've re-checked the .sch file and amended some values entered wrong. Connections look good, here is the right one (I don't know while "_002" has been added ! just delete that and save as .sch)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/LIGHTWAH_sch_002.html
.....and here is the PCB layout :D :icon_mrgreen: :icon_redface: , not verified... not built.... could be improved.... and whatnot... that's it (same here, rename it/save as .pcb)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/LightWah2_pcb_001.html
Please let me know if some of you guys build it, so we can state it's verified
......and I will be enormously grateful if someone can make one for me :icon_redface: :icon_redface: :icon_redface: (I can only do handdrawn atm......)
cheers m8s
Armando
wow..you guys have been busy!..went camping for the weekend...got soaked..and then burnt...the whiskey and beer helped though!... :icon_cool:
@gurner: yeah i know, i found my opamp symbol afterwards...i know next time.. ::)
thanks for the compliment too.....learn your modes...makes playing a lot better and more fluid..!..heres a quick video i did on the modes...with a backing track..ok.. :icon_wink:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRQPIPVp4bo
@yorick:...squeeze it in.... :icon_wink:
@artifus: what section of the nurse quacky is the envelope detector?...im dumb, but that would be a great feature to add while were at it at this stage..
and how to implement it?...
is it just the bottom section...?..to the led part?..
i also looked at those beam IR sensors...still affected by 'ambient light though arent they?....hmmmm...
@askwho: foot ldr is on box top:
1 lfo led is on box top...other is wrapped to lfo ldr
1 darklight led goes on top...other is wrapped to footwah ldr.....the led on top will show the wah sensitivity...glow brighter as you go nearer ok!...
tranny : 2n3904 npn.
@arnoud: wow, i didnt mean it.. ;)
nice work man, i'll have to download express pcb again, to see it... ::)...but thanks for putting the correct symbols in there...nice one!.
as for pcb, i really like the idea of the 'envelope detector dooby' that artifus said...from nurse quacky...that'd be a great addon...
so maybe hold fire on that just yet!...
and yes i like my guitar tuner too....its very reliable!... ;)
ps: i'll knock up a pcb for you ok!...no problem. ;)
whooohooo....just got my 'encapsulated ldrs'...nice thick plastic cover...be cool on the box..easy to fit too...drill a hole and glue/epoxy it in.
its got a dark plastic underneath too...no light coming in there...nice...gonna try em out today...might be too big,might let too much light in, might not...but protected for sure!.. :icon_wink:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300554693653&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 27, 2011, 04:20:23 AM
what section of the nurse quacky is the envelope detector?...im dumb, but that would be a great feature to add while were at it at this stage..
and how to implement it?...
is it just the bottom section...?..to the led part?..
yup. up to the tranny. here's a couple of other ways of doing it: seamoon (http://www.geofex.com/FX_images/seamoon.gif) 440 (http://analogguru.an.ohost.de/193/schematics/Dod_440_red.gif)
and some reading: The Technology of Auto-Wahs / Envelope-Controlled Filters (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/ecftech/ecftech.htm)
cheers artifus.
hmmm...i built the nurse quacky a long time ago...it wasnt sensitive enough to quack the top B and E strings as i recall...its sitting in dust unboxed...and never will be!.. :-\
anyway if we went down this route it would be a 7 knob pedal .. :icon_eek:
those others look interesting though...especially the seamoon...hmmm...nice n small...so that would be the bottom section up to the tranny too?..
@arnoud..couldnt open your files...i downloaded express :-\
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 27, 2011, 04:20:23 AM
@arnoud: wow, i didnt mean it.. ;)
nice work man, i'll have to download express pcb again, to see it... ::)...but thanks for putting the correct symbols in there...nice one!.
I think u r talking to me!, yup, unlike you, my weekend plans changed, so I had to stay at home!!
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 27, 2011, 04:20:23 AM
as for pcb, i really like the idea of the 'envelope detector dooby' that artifus said...from nurse quacky...that'd be a great addon...
so maybe hold fire on that just yet!...
ok, the biggest part is done, so no problem to add something there!
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 27, 2011, 04:20:23 AM
and yes i like my guitar tuner too....its very reliable!... ;)
:D :D
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 27, 2011, 04:20:23 AM
ps: i'll knock up a pcb for you ok!...no problem. ;)
thx m8, really appreciated!!
yep sorry armando....i was talking to you!..
i couldnt download ya files ?
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 27, 2011, 01:03:14 PM
@arnoud..couldnt open your files...i downloaded express :-\
Amando is my name, please!! ( I know... I know... whisked and beer on the weekend!!) LOL LOL LOL LOL
you need to save as .sch and .pcb files, or rename the extension after save, don't know why this time an underscore sign has been added.
ha ha...sorry man...jet/camping lag i guess!... :icon_redface: :icon_mrgreen:
ok i'll give em another go!...nice one 'ARMANDO'.... :icon_wink:
armando:
i just printed out your pcb...some of those pads are really close to each other...almost touching..
round R1 and R9...especially...any chance of making the gaps a tiny bit wider..(ive never used express)..and would you say this is pretty much sorted ?...i know you cant say verified, but as good as?....logically wise!. :icon_wink:
if so i'll give it a go...its a good size!..cheers rob.
(i got your name right this time... :icon_mrgreen:
edit: ahhh made the traces thinner..cool. that was easy.. :icon_cool:
Great! glad you get it sorted Rob!
layout should fit a 1590B vertically.
yes, logically wise all nodes are checked against the schemo (you know .pcb file is linked to .sch file, so once you click on a component's pad all the components' pads connected are highlighted).
So if you checked my schemo with your and it's ok, then the PCB's connections are ok, though I didn't follow any PCB-making rules (studied them in early 70s, cannot recall one!! :icon_redface: )
Ciao
cheers armando....
i'll go over it a bit more...and try and visually verify it...(i looked at a few tutorials on express)
i'll knock up a couple of pcb's if it works fine, and ill send ya one ok...ciao!... :icon_wink:
i'll get back to ya ok.
edit: ahhhh...i see youve designed it for an 071....hmmm...i only have 072's...bummer..! :-\
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 29, 2011, 03:07:54 PM
cheers armando....
i'll go over it a bit more...and try and visually verify it...(i looked at a few tutorials on express)
i'll knock up a couple of pcb's if it works fine, and ill send ya one ok...ciao!... :icon_wink:
i'll get back to ya ok.
edit: ahhhh...i see youve designed it for an 071....hmmm...i only have 072's...bummer..! :-\
what!! you don't have.... one... just one 071!! is like a guitarist without a pick!! look at your bin you may have and old Dist+ or a DOD250 laying there!! :D :D
there you go m8!! a 072 version (not verified!)
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/LIGHTWAH072_sch.html
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/LightWah072_pcb.html
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 29, 2011, 03:07:54 PM
i'll knock up a couple of pcb's if it works fine, and ill send ya one ok...ciao!... :icon_wink:
i'll get back to ya ok.
greatly appreciated!!
Ciao
Armando
no i havent... ::)
nice one armando...your a star!... ;)
i had to stick a ground symbol on the bottom of the 'foot' ldr...my mistake.. :icon_redface:
its sorted now!.. :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 29, 2011, 06:57:42 PM
no i havent... ::)
nice one armando...your a star!... ;)
;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 30, 2011, 06:46:20 AM
i had to stick a ground symbol on the bottom of the 'foot' ldr...my mistake.. :icon_redface:
its sorted now!.. :)
what do you mean by that, in the dark/light section 'foot' ldr is going to ground iso to the base of Q1 ?
i have the darklight on a tiny breadboard 'seperate'
it wont work unless that emitter of the npn is grounded as well.(jumpered to ground).
the emitter, and the bottom of the ldr have to be grounded...sorry its early, need another cup o tea... :)
whats 'iso'..?
don't get it, picture or sketch please (me so noob!)!! :icon_redface: :icon_mrgreen:
early???, it's 2pm here, 1pm on your side!!! c'mon! :D :D
iso, ''instead of'' :D
i had a late one!..last night...ok hold on.. :)
heres how i have it working on bb...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/darky.jpg)
i need more sleep i think... ;)
whoops...
right ive had a think.
ideally i want the leds next to the relevant ldr's...just for board tidyness etc..
so ive drunk lots of coffee and came up with this...its a bit smaller length wise, (sorry for messing you about armando :-X)
could you guys take a look and see if anything is weird....the only bit i'm not too sure of is around the lfo part....pin 5 /150k to pin 1 bit..hmmm...(phozer type lfo)
its using 2 tl072's...
if it looks ok, i'll crack on and do it...and if verified, ill put the pdf up of the layout and pcb. :icon_wink:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LIGHTWAHDONE1.jpg)
phewww...i need a beer.. :P
ok i built the above version today...as the forum was down :(
and the lfo is definately not having it....the leds are on, but just not fading in and out...im using the 'ph0zer' lfo.(runoffgroove)..theres something amiss with how ive done it...
and the 10kb sensitivity pot smokes when i turn it.. :icon_eek:
the rest is fine by the looks..@#$%ing lfo...arghhhhhh........
but its the lfo thats really peeing me off...arghhhhhh...... :(
can someone check me on this lfo?..ive tried it various ways and it just wont pulse...for reference this is the ph0zer lfo.. my dodgy schematic page 15.. ;)
it worked fine on breadboard this way, but i dont know whats gone wrong in pcb translation... ::)
ive got it so when i connect + it slowly lights the leds, but wont pulse?...
does this look ok to you?.. :icon_eek:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LFOBASTARD.jpg)
heres my numbers for the tl072
p1 4.62
p2 4.75
p3 4.50
p4 0.00
p5 4.58
p6 4.62
p7 4.62
p8 9.10
no fluctuation at all.... :-X
hmmm had a probe around , if i connect pin 2 and 7 it works....but not half as slow as i had it on breadboard?...the @#$%er...
and nowhere in the scheme does it show pin2 and 7 connected...weird!...
Hi
looking at the Phozer there's a 10n cap from pint 2 to 1, aren't you missing that ?
hi armando, , yeah i changed that to a 1m...it just faded in and out much better...
i dont see how it has to have pin2 and 7 connected to work.. but not at the right speed...strange..
EDIT:
OH @#$% IT....I GIVE UP...TOO MANY LATE NIGHTS SPENT ON THIS @#$%ER..I GAVE IT A DAMN GOOD GO THOUGH!....
I'M HITTING THE WHISKEY.... :icon_evil:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 05, 2011, 07:32:16 AM
hi armando, , yeah i changed that to a 1m...it just faded in and out much better...
i dont see how it has to have pin2 and 7 connected to work.. but not at the right speed...strange..
EDIT:
OH @#$% IT....I GIVE UP...TOO MANY LATE NIGHTS SPENT ON THIS @#$%ER..I GAVE IT A DAMN GOOD GO THOUGH!....
I'M HITTING THE WHISKEY.... :icon_evil:
hahahaha rob please be patience ! i know you can do it! :D
^yeah, i'll give it one more go!...in a better mood today... ;)
:note the 'darklight' above has had a 4.7k resistor added....i kept burning out pots ::)...they looked good though!...sorted now ok. :icon_cool:
i had the darklight on a tiny bb, running on an old battery, when i put it on my psu powered bb, it burnt it...theres a lesson for me eh!...test in real life conditions!!!!!!.. :icon_mrgreen:
ohh yeah!!! you might want a chick for it? :D
can someone check this out?....heres the schematic for the lfo..
and the lfo ive put into diylc v3....does it look ok?....
pin 2 is the 1M...pin 1 is the 6.8k....both upright resistors ok.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lfo2.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LFO.jpg)
the rest of the layout looks fine...but i just want to be sure of this bloody lfo...anyone?.. :icon_wink:
heres the full layout!... ive left space for actual size of leds/ldrs...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/FULLLAYOUTLIGHTWAH.jpg)
if anyone is remotely interested.... YAWN!... ;)
and fancies giving this a shot, heres the layout pdf, and pcb pdf ok....
ive made a pcb of it, (and one for armando :icon_wink:) but wont have time this weekend to build/verify it....ive checked it over many times and it all looks ok...
i re-breaded the lfo especially, and it looks cool to me!...blood sweat and many tantrums went into this @#$%er!!!!....but it looks ok now!... :icon_wink:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LIGHTWAHPCB2.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwah%20layout.pdf
YAWN!... ,
i got round to populating the pcb last nght, just gotta do the wiring today...
if i can skip some family get together bs. :icon_rolleyes:.... :icon_mrgreen:
@#$%ING VERIFIED!... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
it ALL works great...at last...
the lfo is really good, no noise/ticking etc...whhoooo..hoooo..... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
there is a bit of whooosh noise when distorted....but i guess thats t be expected with distortion on it....
AT LAST now i can get this @#$%ing circuit out of my head!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....and crack on with some other projects ... :icon_cool:
i'll do further tests... :icon_wink:
Great job m8!!
good layout.... just waiting to see your effort on the new enclosure for this beast!
Just one question, do you think the LEDs you mention on the PDF are mandatory? did you tested with standard LEDs?
Thanks Rob!! :D
hi man, yeah i tried various leds for the lfo...blue , red,orange, etc...but yellow seemed to be best
especially as they are in series...i think (not sure) that standard one might be dim... ... ...i never tested standard ones though... didnt have any.. ::)
ive desinged my box for this, .. :icon_mrgreen:
just need to run a few more tests on it.... :icon_wink:
oh yeah :
C8 = 10UF.
AND SPEED POT 470KB.
heres a final clip of it....its great having the volume on it, it really pushes into the distortion...you can hear it from 3:00 onwards...enjoy :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LIGHTWAHTEST.mp3
Congrats ROB!! wow its sound so amazing super amazing!! hope to see it in a box!!! thanks ROB
cheers man....its been a struggle...but i @#$%ing love it..it kicks ass.... :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 09, 2011, 02:17:28 PM
cheers man....its been a struggle...but i @#$%ing love it..it kicks ass.... :icon_mrgreen:
Gonna make this todaY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Quote from: askwho69 on July 10, 2011, 12:40:00 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 09, 2011, 02:17:28 PM
cheers man....its been a struggle...but i @#$%ing love it..it kicks ass.... :icon_mrgreen:
Gonna make this todaY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
cool!...have fun!.. :icon_wink:
ok, its build into a box day!...whoooohoooo.... ;D
got my design, just need to etch n drill...
just pondering on using a 5mm ldr in a bezel....or using the encapsulated 10mm ldr!...hmmmm....choices..
i guess the 5mm in a bezel would be best, to be a bit more level with the footswitch etc....whereas the 10mm will fit flush with the box...but lower!....hmmmm....
also thinking of using 3mm leds for the top now too...as long as it doesnt mess with the lfo's sweep....better fit though...without bezels etc...
cant wait to see t in a box :))) ill wait for it rob
^ did you do yours?...
edit: i just tried this for the foot ldr....and it works great!... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
use a waterclear led, cut the legs off and sand the bottom flat, glue the ldr facing the botom of the led and whack into a bezel...proper protected...!!!!...
and still looks cool..and works fine......no dodgy trying to make it fit etc.....whoooo....hooooo......perfecto!. :icon_mrgreen:
i'm just full of crap ideas today!!!!... :icon_wink:
heres my box, etched and ready to go.....when i get a spdt on on...that is... :icon_rolleyes:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120711_14.51.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P120711_16.52.jpg)
WOW!! F£$%NG AWESOME!!
I'd say, when finished, that's really something to be proud of !!
well done Rob!!
cheers armando:
yeah it'll be very cool...gotta go get a spdt on/on tomorrow then finish it... (why is it i never have enough bits ;D)
the ldr in the bezel will look cool too!.... :icon_cool:
when ive finished it i'll knock ya up a PCB OK...(havent forgot).. :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 12, 2011, 04:25:28 AM
use a waterclear led, cut the legs off and sand the bottom flat, glue the ldr facing the botom of the led and whack into a bezel...proper protected...!!!!...
^^^
don't know how, but I've missed this post!
you're a G E N I U S my friend!!
Thanks for the PCB Rob
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 09, 2011, 02:04:42 PM
heres a final clip of it....its great having the volume on it, it really pushes into the distortion...you can hear it from 3:00 onwards...enjoy :icon_twisted:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LIGHTWAHTEST.mp3
Freakin' sweet, Rob, although the 1st 8 secs sound like Bill Cosby doing his "dentist" routine!
Rob i been busy these days my 2 friend let me do some distortion for them :D i actually did Riot and our hated dist "Krank distortus maximus" i actually made it better using big Louis's lay out !!! using n-4 <<out of the topic! i log in today to get the layout and start making it :D can you share the file of your enclosure etched? i really like it :D
PCB TIME! :D
final build off day!....if i can get a @#$%ing spdt on/on from craplins...that is... :icon_rolleyes:
@armando: no problemo!..and yeah the ldr is well sorted now!..that was my only concern, on how to mount it!..sorted!...great!.
@steve, who's cosby......oh i remember.. 'diffrent strokes' ....he's probably had one by now eh!.... ;D
@ask: i'll build it for you too if you like, and stick a broom up my butt and sweep the @#$%ing floor while i'm at it....... :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_wink:
btw OT: but what was the suhr (uproar) like?...i have a pcb of the madbean version, just never built it...and never heard that clone!... :icon_cool:
Rob! i did the uproar! yeah its a cool pedal :D i made my PCB well the pedal kick ass!!!!! try it :D i recommend! after building it im thinking to change my distortion from Sans amp gt2 to uproar! i like it!
Hahahah no im gonna etch my own pcb just need the layout you did !:D i like it :D hahahahahah!
by the way about the @#$%ing decay in krank distortus i had a problem with my power supply, its the reason if your supply is not 9v it will farted like hell! when i tried with battery its good!
:icon_wink:
got a soundclip of it?..
ok heres the fnished 'LIGHTWAH'...at last!.... :icon_wink:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140711_12.32.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140711_12.33.jpg)
Simply AMAZING Rob!! :icon_eek:
Rob that's freaking KICKASS!!!
do you think it's possible to make the manual mode only?
also what did you do about the light/dark environment issue? :D
O to the M to the G. :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: Fantastic, top-notch work, the whole thing.
mind: blown.
I'm not that expert in guitar gears, but I never saw something like that!!
your baby is simply magnificent!
Great job Rob, you should be very proud - sounds great!
The boy can play too.......
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 14, 2011, 12:49:25 PM
ok heres the fnished 'LIGHTWAH'...at last!.... :icon_wink:
I fricken love the sound of this pedal. From a design standpoint however I think I would put the stomp switch more to the right of the box so that you could use your foot over the sensor on the left. Wouldn't "look" as nice and symmetrical, but it would give space and less possibility of accidentally stomping the switch if you were using your foot over the sensor instead of a hand.
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 24, 2011, 03:19:28 AM
so here is the final 'LIGHTWAH' shematic...untidy i know but hey...this is how it is!..and it works fine!......anyone fancy a weekend 1590b pcb designing project?... :icon_wink:
I'm pretty interested. I could have a run of boards done too, double-sided, through-hole plated, silk screen, the works. Board cost would be close to $1.25 USD or so each, coming from china. Thats for a board 2" by 2" max, which this could definitely fit into. It would fit in a 1590B no problem.
Even if I just produced the PCB files and such and sent them to someone else to order and distribute to the other interested forum members, I would do. Or I could distribute I guess. They'd probably let me send a PCB in a padded envelope in the mail eh?
I'll watch this thread for any takers.
cheers guys!...and thanks for all your help with this mad project....i know i'm a dumb @#$%er sometimes ::)...but i appreciate your time and patience...cool!.. :icon_wink:
@V. yeah just lose the lfo for a simplified version.....as for the light issues: i knocked up a circuit so that when the ldr goes dark, the led lights...
ive tried it in sunlight and it works fine...and in normal household lighting too...you just adjust the sensitivity pot according to light conditions
i adjust till the 'blue' led is just off...then when its covered it lights fully.....when its dark i just flip the auto on..and no problems.. :icon_cool:
or you can turn the sensitivity right up full and have a type of treble boost..or halfway..a wah half way.. :icon_mrgreen:
@ugly: i put the sensor there because i'm a lefty..and left footed too..but its sensitive enough to be anywhere around there really, plus i fancied the 'real' wah sound of when switched on
the wah is fully open...............the sensor part could be used for a lot of other applications too.. :icon_cool:
@matt: hmmmm....dunno about all that side of things...i knock my own up.. ;)
so any schematic other than the PCB layout 2 pages back?
it's easier to work with a scheme you know. also the reason i wanna take out the LFO bit is cause i doubt i'd be using it and i'd actually want to fit it in this enclosure i have predrilled fr 2 pots :P
@v: here ya go, just the wah and light sensor section...this'll be ok.
just 2 pots and a sensor led,.....face 1 led to the ldr...and 1 on top for reference..and to look cool... :icon_cool:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahnolfo.jpg)
there is the other half of that 072 that can be used for something!!!!!!!!!.... ;) or just use an 071....
cheers.
Very nice sound, the effects of the LED's keeps the sweeping de-and-accelerations in interesting forms, the wide-and-narrow sweep direction change points as well as the 'centering'. There's enough diversity of change to the sound that it seems to be 'continually revealing' itself.
I'm going to do a simple single-sided PCB layout today that I'll post, but my offer of doing up an order of professional boards is still on the table if people are interested.
Quote from: petemoore on July 15, 2011, 07:53:38 AM
Very nice sound, the effects of the LED's keeps the sweeping de-and-accelerations in interesting forms, the wide-and-narrow sweep direction change points as well as the 'centering'. There's enough diversity of change to the sound that it seems to be 'continually revealing' itself.
cheers pete: yeah its very fluid...took a while to get the lfo/ and led choice just right/or how i ike it....
@matt, just to let ya know, i did a pcb on pdf..and it takes into account the led/ldr size too...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg792407#msg792407
bom adjustments:
C8=10uf
speed pot=470kb...ok.
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 15, 2011, 09:00:08 AM
Quote from: petemoore on July 15, 2011, 07:53:38 AM
Very nice sound, the effects of the LED's keeps the sweeping de-and-accelerations in interesting forms, the wide-and-narrow sweep direction change points as well as the 'centering'. There's enough diversity of change to the sound that it seems to be 'continually revealing' itself.
cheers pete: yeah its very fluid...took a while to get the lfo/ and led choice just right/or how i ike it....
@matt, just to let ya know, i did a pcb on pdf..and it takes into account the led/ldr size too...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg792407#msg792407
bom adjustments:
C8=10uf
speed pot=470kb...ok.
I see but do you have a transfer-ready version? I am making a transfer version.
yeah, the 2 pdfs are under the layout link..
one for layout, one for pcb...ready to print ok.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg792594#msg792594
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 15, 2011, 09:09:58 AM
yeah, the 2 pdfs are under the layout link..
one for layout, one for pcb...ready to print ok.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg792594#msg792594
Oh sorry I missed that. Shouldn't be skimming instead of reading. ;)
Thanks. I'm still going to do my own layout (its good practice anyway) and in case anyone wants me to order up a batch. I'd like to do it. Maybe I'll just do it for myself. Problem is its minimum of 10, so I'll have tons of extras.
okey dokey!... :icon_cool:
Here's what I got:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/th_Lightwah.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/?action=view¤t=Lightwah.png)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/th_board_render_2d.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/?action=view¤t=board_render_2d.png)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/th_board_render.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/?action=view¤t=board_render.png)
Don't be concerned about package appearances in the 3D render, I didn't bother making actual pots, etc. I just used the default single in-line connector package which has the same spacing as the typical board-mount 16mm pots.
Pot spacing is 1" apart, square. Board size is 1.950" by 1.950", intended for 1590B. Mini toggle switch goes in the middle.
I also redrew the schematic. Deadastronaut, think you could give it a once-over to make sure I got it all right? I've checked it but its good to have two sets of eyes. I also tried to add a DC/battery switching setup, I don't ever use batteries so I don't know if that will work but I think it will, using typical 3-pin DC jacks.
Thoughts wanted. Also anyone interested in having boards made should PM me.
Deadastronaut,
I've been thinking and appears it might be difficult to operate the pedal with a foot, how well does it work using your foot? I imagine the threshold would be shorter since a foot blocks/allows light more abruptly than a finger does. Also, how is performance in low/indirect/artificial light?
Quote from: petemoore on July 15, 2011, 07:53:38 AM
Very nice sound, the effects of the LED's keeps the sweeping de-and-accelerations in interesting forms, the wide-and-narrow sweep direction change points as well as the 'centering'. There's enough diversity of change to the sound that it seems to be 'continually revealing' itself.
Pete, that's the best description ever for a guitar gear!!! (in a serious way)
Again Rob well done!
Here's an idea:
What if there was a bright IR LED on top of the box, aimed straight up, and the LDR had a visible light filter to eliminate the need for ambient light? The resistance would be controlled by IR light from the LED reflecting off your foot and back to the LDR. The closer your foot the more reflected light. It would also make this device work on a dark stage since it wouldn't rely on any outside light source.
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 15, 2011, 01:41:43 PM
Here's an idea:
What if there was a bright IR LED on top of the box, aimed straight up, and the LDR had a visible light filter to eliminate the need for ambient light? The resistance would be controlled by IR light from the LED reflecting off your foot and back to the LDR. The closer your foot the more reflected light. It would also make this device work on a dark stage since it wouldn't rely on any outside light source.
There's a whole heap of IR in ambient light too (especially daylight), so your method wouldn't eliminate the problem.
The only way to eradicate the impact of ambient light is to modulate the LED driving signal .....then demodulate received signal.
Another (less component count) way of minimising the impact of ambient light would be to go with a differential setup at the ldr (one ldr to pickup the ambient light, one ldr for the 'foot reflected' led light...then only the difference between the two LDRs gets acted upon ...it's not ideal, but does help a lot...but even this method would still need a major overhaul of the present circuit iteration...and I know Rob is keen on simple/tiny solutions :) so not something that's likely gonna happen)
Quote from: Gurner on July 15, 2011, 01:48:16 PM
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 15, 2011, 01:41:43 PM
Here's an idea:
What if there was a bright IR LED on top of the box, aimed straight up, and the LDR had a visible light filter to eliminate the need for ambient light? The resistance would be controlled by IR light from the LED reflecting off your foot and back to the LDR. The closer your foot the more reflected light. It would also make this device work on a dark stage since it wouldn't rely on any outside light source.
There's a whole heap of IR in ambient light too (especially daylight), so your method wouldn't eliminate the problem.
The only way to eradicate the impact of ambient light is to modulate the LED driving signal .....then demodulate received signal.
Another (less compoinent count) way of minimising the impact of ambient light would be to go with a differential setup at the ldr receiver amp (one ldr to pickup the ambient light, one ldr for the reflected led light...only the difference between the two LDRs gets amplified...it's not ideal, but does help a lot)
You're right. I forgot about the ambient IR. Stupid.
Still might work better than relying on ambient, top-down light.
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 15, 2011, 05:39:49 AM
@v: here ya go, just the wah and light sensor section...this'll be ok.
just 2 pots and a sensor led,.....face 1 led to the ldr...and 1 on top for reference..and to look cool... :icon_cool:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahnolfo.jpg)
there is the other half of that 072 that can be used for something!!!!!!!!!.... ;) or just use an 071....
cheers.
that looks just great Rob! and it happens so that i have a 071 laying around.
Rob isn't it missing ?
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 30, 2011, 07:27:38 AM
i have the darklight on a tiny breadboard 'seperate'
it wont work unless that emitter of the npn is grounded as well.(jumpered to ground).
the emitter, and the bottom of the ldr have to be grounded.
I'd be inclined to dispense with R6 & just put your output pot in its place (use something like a 5k pot)...or you could just keep your 100k , in place of R6 but change the cap value to something like 50nf. Not exactly sure what purpose R7 is serving on the original Morley Wah cct (http://www.morleypedals.com/clwes.pdf to my eyes it looks like some form of output short cct protection).....it's presently acting as a potential divider in your implementation (which isn't R7 in Morley's cct's intended purpose for sure), so if moving the pot to R6's location just attach R7 between the pot wiper & the output jack. (even if you're not gonna move the pot to R6, R7 would be better on the output lug of your pot)
One component saved (R6) ...& possibly R7 if you're confident you won't short the output to ground at some stage ....let loose the pigeons!
damn you DeadAstronaut
I have like 6 projects on the board... and now I want to make this.... :icon_evil:
I guess I better finish something to make room :icon_mrgreen:
@matt, looks good...there is a 4.7k going into the sensitivity pot...that i added.. and the ldr should go to ground too...
look at the layout i did for vendetta...(i forgot the ground symbol on the bottom)......
as for light conditions...its ok..if its dark just flip the auto on....the foot wah was just an add on really , because i could... ;)
@gurner, yep, i like to keep things simple....like me!.. :icon_mrgreen:...
@armando...you are correct!...the ldr should have a ground!.. :)
@iccaros..i'll be damned..its great fun... :icon_mrgreen:
i have a stupid question rob... where the heck is the LDR "foot LDR"? is the sensor thing is just an ordinary LED? and the one below the Depth? please im very confused
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 16, 2011, 05:00:03 AM
@matt, looks good...there is a 4.7k going into the sensitivity pot...that i added.. and the ldr should go to ground too...
look at the layout i did for vendetta...(i forgot the ground symbol on the bottom)......
as for light conditions...its ok..if its dark just flip the auto on....the foot wah was just an add on really , because i could... ;)
Okay, I won't worry too much about it then. I'll basically do what you did with the foot LDR. I'll make the changes to my layout and schematic.
Quote from: askwho69 on July 16, 2011, 07:41:38 AM
i have a stupid question rob... where the heck is the LDR "foot LDR"? is the sensor thing is just an ordinary LED? and the one below the Depth? please im very confused
the foot ldr is on the right of the
schematic...
its on the bottom left on the
layout...external foot ldr...
its not an led....hmmm...well it is sort of....take a clear led, cut the legs off, sand the bottom flat, glue that into a 5 mm bezel (metal one), then heatshrink the legs of the ldr
and glue the top of that to the bottom of the clear led...done....ok!.
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 17, 2011, 04:15:07 AM
its not an led....hmmm...well it is sort of....take a clear led, cut the legs off, sand the bottom flat, glue that into a 5 mm bezel (metal one), then heatshrink the legs of the ldr
and glue the top of that to the bottom of the clear led...done....ok!.
What you're describing is a sort of reverse LED lightpipe.
Lightpipes are used with LEDs to erhm 'pipe' LED light from the bowels of the enclosure circuit board (eg an SMD LED) to where you want the LED to show (the outside world)....you're sort of doing this in reverse (ie piping the ambient light outside the enclosure to inside where the LDR is)....so an LED lightpipe would work if folks prefer to source one instead.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&rlz=1T4GGHP_en-GBGB439GB440&q=led+lightpipe&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&biw=1440&bih=644
^ they look good!... :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 17, 2011, 04:15:07 AM
its not an led....hmmm...well it is sort of....take a clear led, cut the legs off, sand the bottom flat, glue that into a 5 mm bezel (metal one), then heatshrink the legs of the ldr
and glue the top of that to the bottom of the clear led...done....ok!.
??? not quite getting it. I
think it sounds like you're not using the LED electrically, but just using the package as a type of lens (as per the 'lightpipe' comment). Correct? I wonder if you could do this with some kind of plastic bead or marble instead.
hi jonathan: correct, just as a lens, and to protect the ldr as well.....yeah a bead why not... :icon_cool:
@rob-- Thanks so much man you're magnificent !!! the idea is very creative :DDD
@gurner - thanks too! you added a clearance to my blocked MIND! < confusing puzzling description :D
i love this project!
A2
Ah god.. why am so unlucky..
i was about to breadboard this until i saw that i have only one LDR... and then reading the discussion on this page i figured out what kind of a mistake i did by throwing those burnt LEDs away yesterday saying "who'd ever need these"... >:( >:( :icon_evil: :icon_evil:
^ ha ha...yeah, a bit of recycling!... :icon_mrgreen:
you can never have too many ldr's....but you can always not have enough... ;)
It's better to have parts and no money, than money and no parts. ;)
on the subject if LDRs, i'm guessing that the higher the max resistance the better, for the widest range - and you that can always dial it down with sensitivity/depth controls? or is it a bit more complex than that?
Quote from: nocentelli on July 17, 2011, 05:38:36 PM
on the subject if LDRs, i'm guessing that the higher the max resistance the better, for the widest range - and you that can always dial it down with sensitivity/depth controls? or is it a bit more complex than that?
You can add a pot in series or parallel, to add/reduce resistance, respectively. However, they don't have linear resistance-to-light curves, so it may have undesirable effects.
I just tried prototyping out the LFO-less pedal and it doesn't seem to be working. The LEDs are on, and one is aimed at the LDR that is near the transistor, and I added a ground connection I think you mentioned, to the emitter of the transistor.
I can hear the guitar but it has low volume, and changing the light to the LDR that is near the op-amp doesn't have any audible effect. I've tried a couple LDRs for different resistances, but still nothing. Any tips?
is the 'darklight' section reacting to light?...with the sensitivity pot?...
does the wah work on its own...test with a pot instead of ldr..
once both setions are working, there shouldnt be any problem...
heres the darklight section only...note the ground...and ldr...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/darklight..jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 18, 2011, 02:38:41 AM
is the 'darklight' section reacting to light?...with the sensitivity pot?...
does the wah work on its own...test with a pot instead of ldr..
once both setions are working, there shouldnt be any problem...
heres the darklight section only...note the ground...and ldr...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/darklight..jpg)
Looks like what I've got... I'll fiddle with it more tonight, and try substituting in a pot for the LDR. It should "wah" with a pot in place of the wah LDR. My 2N3904 got very hot when in use, I think it can't handle the current passing through when running those LEDs, did you ever have this problem? Seems like maybe a resistor in series with the two LEDs might be in order.
no never had a heat problem on the tranny..
i put that 4.7k in there before the pot, as i did burn a pot out though when testing on bb.....but when i did that it was fine!...
made some pcbs for it today!... :icon_cool:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P180711_15.28.jpg)
looks great!
wish i could etch pcbs
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 18, 2011, 10:39:54 AM
made some pcbs for it today!... :icon_cool:
You sellin'? ;)
guys : its too time consuming to be worth my while...cutting/printing/ironing/etching/drilling/tidying edges etc....
its quite a bit of work!...and i couldn't charge for my time too...if i did, they'd be quite pricey.... plus worldwide post etc...
anyhow:
try it on perf...which i have never tried.. ::)
or do a vero layout!...which would be bigger, but more accessible to everyone!... :)
Nice work on this Mr Rob, sounds cool. Just one thing though. There seems to be a problem with the schem, concerning the connections of the speed pot to IC2. In the schem R17 (150k) connects directly to pin 1 of IC2. But on the PCB layout R17 connects to pin 2 of IC2. And also the ground connection on the transistor is not shown on the schematic. It kind of made it a @#$%ing nightmare to do a working vero layout. Just thought i'd point it out to you. If you guys want to check out the vero you will find it at FSB.
@johno:
hmmmm...which schematic?..
so you got it going then?... :icon_cool:
p's i couldnt find your vero!.. :-\
I used the schem from page 15 drawn by you. There are two schems on that page and neither match up to the Pcb layout on page 17. And matt put up a schem on page 19 and it also does not match up with the layout. Maybe I'm missing something but i don't think so, I've checked the schems against the layout a million times.
I haven't built the vero yet. but it's a direct trace of your PCB (layed out differently though) so it should be ok.
I'm surprised you couldn't find the lay out, search for "Light wah"
ok, i found the thread , but it wont let me see it as i'm not a member....and i can't be arsed with yet another password etc... ::)
i'll dig around my files and see if i can get the verified scheme up ok!,.
p.s, dont use a tlo74!...high risk of ticking ok!.. already thought of that.......and the expression socket..........and envelope detector.....
in the end i kept it simple!... ;)
Cool, can you check out the connections i'm talking about and let me know if i'm right or wrong. I think matt is having pcb's made and if he used the incorrect connections he is gonna be pissed.
I didn't use tl074's i used 072's, I hope it doesn't tick. I'll have to get around to building it.
ok i'll have a look through it and make it more tidy etc....especially if matt is going for it...yeah he'll be well pissed off otherwise.....
there is no ticking on this at all.....no bloody 555 involved.. ;)
check back later ok.
ok here ya go...this is the proper one i used...matt had a 10uf on the wah input...its not its a 4.7nf
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahschematic.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 20, 2011, 09:39:26 AM
ok here ya go...this is the proper one i used...matt had a 10uf on the wah input...its not its a 4.7nf
(old schematic goes here) :icon_biggrin:
Isn't that a short between R11 and C7?
yes!... ::)
hold on ill sort it... :icon_rolleyes:
done!... ;)
Thats better. I'm very surprised no one has brought this up earlier as I noticed it a couple of weeks ago. I guess nobody thought to compare the schem to the layout. Thank's for clearing it up rob. Perhaps the other schem's should be removed to avoid confusion.
If you look at matts schem you will notice he has the wrong connections on IC2 also and i guess on his Pcb, but i have not checked his Pcb. But i don't think it will work.
If someone could remind me how to add the layout I will post it up here. It's been a long time.
no problem, hope its cleared it up for everyone...i'll remove what previous stuff i can ok.. :icon_cool:
matt will have to check in, to sort his out!...hope he hasn't gone ahead yet!!!... :icon_eek:
edit: cleaned out old stuff ok...
Hey guys,
I corrected my drawing, there appears to have been a number of components that have "appeared", or re-arranged themselves since I did my drawing based on the schem from page 15. Maybe we should clean up the obsolete schems before anyone else gets confused.
Here is the new one, it matches the new schem that is posted above.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/th_LightwahCustom-1.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v321/mattthegamer463/Guitar%20Pedals/?action=view¤t=LightwahCustom-1.png)
I haven't ordered any boards, I don't intend to until I have 9 of them spoken for, and the tenth is for me. One guy is interested in "2-3" so there are lots floating around. I think $2 is a reasonable charge, plus postage to wherever you live. I think I can do padded envelopes for them in the standard mail, shouldn't be more than a couple dollars tops.
PM me with interest and I'll keep people updated here.
looks ok,
only bits that looks a little weird is wah opamp should be pin 1 to C4...then THE 3.3K-6.8K..not after.
and speed pot should be reversed...3 2 1...
ive cleaned out the old schemo's etc... ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 20, 2011, 11:40:51 AM
looks ok,
only bits that looks a little weird is wah opamp should be pin 1 to C4...then THE 3.3K-6.8K..not after.
and speed pot should be reversed...3 2 1...
ive cleaned out the old schemo's etc... ;)
Corrected. I was rearranging stuff and a lead got stretched, made it look like it was mis-connected. It was actually fine. Anyway I fixed the above.
cool. :icon_cool:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 20, 2011, 11:49:41 AM
cool. :icon_cool:
Deadastronaut,
I still haven't gotten my LFO-less circuit working, what are the light/dark resistances of the LDRs you are using? I think that could be part of my issue.
Also, are you 100% confident that this latest schematic is perfect? If it is I am moving forward on the board order. Once I get them and show they are working I'm sure people will want to buy the remaining boards from the batch. I have to order in batches of 10.
they are 1M - ?..cant remember off hand...but definately 1M.....
your best bet is to check the schematic alongside the layout i did...as that works perfectly for sure!...just to be safe!. laborious i know, but it has to be right!...
is the wah working ok..is the light sensor part getting brighter as you cover the ldr?...
turn the sensor pot so the led is just off....then when you cover the ldr it should gradualy be on...
heres the sections of it if it helps ya ok...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahcheckout1.jpg)
Thanks, I'll inspect further when I get home. I seem to recall the LEDs getting dimmer when I expose it to less light, maybe my LDRs operate backwards? I don't know if those exist or not.
Well this thing still isn't working. I've gone over it a couple times, still can't find the issue. I have to crank my amp to max just to hear anything out of the circuit, and when I do it just sounds clean. The voltage on both sides of the LDR is 0V. The +, - and output of the op amp is 4.5V as it should be. Doesn't appear to be anything wrong with that. No signal is apparent on either input of the op-amp. Something is going wrong with the caps and resistors.
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 20, 2011, 01:13:15 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 20, 2011, 11:49:41 AM
cool. :icon_cool:
Deadastronaut,
I still haven't gotten my LFO-less circuit working, what are the light/dark resistances of the LDRs you are using? I think that could be part of my issue.
Also, are you 100% confident that this latest schematic is perfect? If it is I am moving forward on the board order. Once I get them and show they are working I'm sure people will want to buy the remaining boards from the batch. I have to order in batches of 10.
I'm confident that the new schem is 100% correct.
Quote from: JOHNO on July 20, 2011, 11:19:37 PM
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 20, 2011, 01:13:15 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 20, 2011, 11:49:41 AM
cool. :icon_cool:
Deadastronaut,
I still haven't gotten my LFO-less circuit working, what are the light/dark resistances of the LDRs you are using? I think that could be part of my issue.
Also, are you 100% confident that this latest schematic is perfect? If it is I am moving forward on the board order. Once I get them and show they are working I'm sure people will want to buy the remaining boards from the batch. I have to order in batches of 10.
I'm confident that the new schem is 100% correct.
Thanks. Sounds like we're all set for the board order then. Still can't figure out why my breadboard version won't work though...
EDIT
I switched out my op amp for a new one just to try, now the circuit sounds clean, but then when I put light to the wah LDR, there is no audible change until suddenly, with enough light, the output cuts off alltogether. Very strange.
you sure about your tranny pinout?
There is still a mistake in the schem. Q1 the ground connection should be between the emmiter and the ldr,not the ldr and base as the schem shows. I've got it on the bb minus the lfo and it is working fine once the ground is correct. I used standard leds and it is lacking some range but the high brightness leds should fix that. Also if you make it with out the lfo the external led is not really needed, just wave your hand over the foot ldr and set the sensitivity pot till your happy. Killer @#$%ing circuit Mr Rob. No more worn out pots.
hi johno: gotcha..ammended.. ok.
like this?....above!..^ cheers.. :icon_cool:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg794874#msg794874
Yep, that it should be good to go now. :icon_cool:
I've amended the issues as well.
One thing I've noticed; on the Morley wah, the 3.3k is after a 10k volume pot, but here it goes straight to ground. Seems like that would be killing a lot of signal amplitude doesn't it?
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 21, 2011, 12:46:49 PM
I've amended the issues as well.
One thing I've noticed; on the Morley wah, the 3.3k is after a 10k volume pot, but here it goes straight to ground. Seems like that would be killing a lot of signal amplitude doesn't it?
Have you a link to the morley schem you are referring to?
I touched upon this particular area a couple of pages ago...
Quote from: Gurner
"I'd be inclined to dispense with R6 & just put your output pot in its place (use something like a 5k pot)...or you could just keep your 100k , in place of R6 but change the cap value to something like 50nf. Not exactly sure what purpose R7 is serving on the original Morley Wah cct (http://www.morleypedals.com/clwes.pdf to my eyes it looks like some form of output short cct protection).....it's presently acting as a potential divider in your implementation (which isn't R7 in Morley's cct's intended purpose for sure), so if moving the pot to R6's location just attach R7 between the pot wiper & the output jack. (even if you're not gonna move the pot to R6, R7 would be better on the output lug of your pot)
One component saved (R6) ...& possibly R7 if you're confident you won't short the output to ground at some stage ....let loose the pigeons!"
In the present lightwah schem, R7 is acting as a potential divider in conjunction with the output pot (losing about 7% of the overall output signal)...I believe R7s purpose is more to protect the opamp against shorts on the output...therefore I reckon R7 would be better served between the wiper of the pot and the output jack
Quote from: Gurner on July 21, 2011, 12:59:27 PM
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 21, 2011, 12:46:49 PM
I've amended the issues as well.
One thing I've noticed; on the Morley wah, the 3.3k is after a 10k volume pot, but here it goes straight to ground. Seems like that would be killing a lot of signal amplitude doesn't it?
Have you a link to the morley schem you are referring to?
I touched upon this particular area a couple of pages ago...
Quote from: Gurner
"I'd be inclined to dispense with R6 & just put your output pot in its place (use something like a 5k pot)...or you could just keep your 100k , in place of R6 but change the cap value to something like 50nf. Not exactly sure what purpose R7 is serving on the original Morley Wah cct (http://www.morleypedals.com/clwes.pdf to my eyes it looks like some form of output short cct protection).....it's presently acting as a potential divider in your implementation (which isn't R7 in Morley's cct's intended purpose for sure), so if moving the pot to R6's location just attach R7 between the pot wiper & the output jack. (even if you're not gonna move the pot to R6, R7 would be better on the output lug of your pot)
One component saved (R6) ...& possibly R7 if you're confident you won't short the output to ground at some stage ....let loose the pigeons!"
In the present lightwah schem, R7 is acting as a potential divider in conjunction with the output pot (losing about 7% of the overall output signal)...I believe R7s purpose is more to protect the opamp against shorts on the output...therefore I reckon R7 would be better served between the wiper of the pot and the output jack
This was the one I was looking at. Theres a lot of them out there.
http://www.morleypedals.com/pwa.pdf
It just seemed a little odd to me. Protecting the op-amp makes sense though. I just still really can't figure out why my breadboard build is failing so badly... I simulated the schematic earlier today in the form I have it in and it works fine, you can clearly see hump of the filter moving back and forth. I think my LDRs are not adequate for whatever reason. In simulation I tried 1M and 100k LDRs, from min light producing 100k and max light producing 500 ohms, and it worked fine at all values and in reasonable frequency ranges. I also tried 1M simulated LDRs and the hump extended a bit lower in the frequency spectrum but still should work 100% of the time. I'm going to try with a pot today, no question that that should work.
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 21, 2011, 01:06:18 PM
This was the one I was looking at. Theres a lot of them out there.
http://www.morleypedals.com/pwa.pdf
That one makes much more sense (& has R7 where I reckon it should go...not sure why they have a 10k pot *and* 3.3k resistor on the output though...that was one of my other observations, just lose the 3.3k altogether & put the pot there), I'd not seen your linked version & had previously reckoned this was the one folks were referencing...
http://www.morleypedals.com/clwes.pdf
@gurner, yep thats the one (classic wah)....theres plenty of volume on it though...way over unity.
i changed the cap on the bottom of the 't' on the right...just sounded better IMO...
This is amazing... great work deadast
Any chance of guts pic?
Thanks :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 21, 2011, 03:06:08 AM
hi johno: gotcha..ammended.. ok.
like this?....above!..^ cheers.. :icon_cool:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg794874#msg794874
Now you put the short back in between R11 and C7 :icon_redface: Time for some file naming conventions? :icon_smile:
^oh @#$% yeah....ok... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
sorted!.... :icon_wink:
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 22, 2011, 08:34:18 AM
^oh @#$% yeah....ok... :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
sorted!.... :icon_wink:
I'm guessing the 470k pot should be labelled "speed", not sensitivity?
yep!... ::)
Rob, dammit i'm also experiencing issues.
I just built the dark light bit. 2 working LEDs a 2n3904 (checked the pinout thrice) a pot and a LDR. the LDR is working on it's own, changing the resistance. ut in the schematic it doesnt do anything at all
are you sure you did it this way cause i understand the concept behind this but the fact that there is a already a connection between the pot's lug 1 and base of the tranny, an additional resistance parallel to the one from the pot's lug is just pointless. ive tried bunch of combinations and still cant get it work (i got it responding on one but the LEDs would go dark when i'd darken the LDR (as if cut the light from it) but it's not how it's supposed to funcion right?
ok an update here
I did some research and found this http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm
go down til the end and scroll up a bit it says 'Using a transistor switch with sensors'
now see the schematic, i did the LDR birght = LED bright one and it works
the other one doesnt want to work with me for some reason!
what the ...
Quote from: vendettav on July 23, 2011, 07:41:53 AM
ok an update here
I did some research and found this http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm
go down til the end and scroll up a bit it says 'Using a transistor switch with sensors'
now see the schematic, i did the LDR birght = LED bright one and it works
the other one doesnt want to work with me for some reason!
what the ...
The sensitivity pot in rob's circuit is in parallel with the LDR, maybe it is causing the LDR resistance changes to become negligible compared to the 10k pot value. 10k in parallel with 1M is not much different than 10k in parallel with 100k, etc. Maybe thats the issue. I'm concerned that much of this circuit's success is dependent of the light/dark resistances of the LDR.
Quote from: mattthegamer463 on July 23, 2011, 01:15:34 PM
Quote from: vendettav on July 23, 2011, 07:41:53 AM
ok an update here
I did some research and found this http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm
go down til the end and scroll up a bit it says 'Using a transistor switch with sensors'
now see the schematic, i did the LDR birght = LED bright one and it works
the other one doesnt want to work with me for some reason!
what the ...
The sensitivity pot in rob's circuit is in parallel with the LDR, maybe it is causing the LDR resistance changes to become negligible compared to the 10k pot value. 10k in parallel with 1M is not much different than 10k in parallel with 100k, etc. Maybe thats the issue. I'm concerned that much of this circuit's success is dependent of the light/dark resistances of the LDR.
actualyl that's what i was trying to explain in my post
however hmm hey i get another idea how to wire this thing up, will try it asap and let you know guys
yeah i know, yawn!......i built another 2 lightwahs...... :icon_rolleyes:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_17.02.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_17.04%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_17.05.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_16.58.jpg)
works fine!... ;)
tip. use low profile miniature electro's ...with the switch in the middle... ;)
looks great, Rob. I'm still waiting for the b@sta@rd LDRs to arrive so I can build this.
cheers man, yeah i hate waiting foir bits, but its nice when they arrive,...
ive whacked this into my little roland micro cube and it kicks serious butt...sounds great...proper :icon_twisted:
I love it! Want to build something functionally similar, but simpler.
My signal chain is almost all-digital and quite hot with a lot of volume headroom. (I run my POD at ~30% volume) Do you think it might be feasible to build a passive wah? As far as I can tell, a wah is basically an adjustable bandpass, filtering out everything outside a certain range, am I right? If I built a passive bandpass filter with the right values, could it be LDR-controlled by putting the LDRs in series with the resistors?
So I built this pedal a while back. Sounds great! However, I was wondering, would it be possible to add an expression jack, so I could use and expression pedal to control the manual wah? I guess at that point, I could just build a true wah pedal, but I'd still like to know if this would be possible.
Thanks for the help, and sorry if this was mention already in this thread. I tried to sift through to see, but its pretty long and may have missed it.
Quote from: kinski on August 06, 2011, 10:54:46 PM
So I built this pedal a while back. Sounds great! However, I was wondering, would it be possible to add an expression jack, so I could use and expression pedal to control the manual wah? I guess at that point, I could just build a true wah pedal, but I'd still like to know if this would be possible.
Thanks for the help, and sorry if this was mention already in this thread. I tried to sift through to see, but its pretty long and may have missed it.
You could add a three way switch instead of the present switch and route the wire to a mono jack. Or alternatively use a switching jack that cuts the connection to the switch. At least that was how I thought about doing it.
I was thinking about building the thing into a wah shell, and leave out the sensor part. I'm fairly sure that I'm not able to stand on one leg, waving my foot in the the air and play guitar at the same time without some yoga training.
Regards
Carsten
Quote from: cab42 on August 07, 2011, 05:05:06 AM
Or alternatively use a switching jack that cuts the connection to the switch. At least that was how I thought about doing it.
I reckon that's the way to go...just find a pot that matches the dark resistance of the LDR.
Anyone considered a ldr (on a socket/jack)...long lined up a mic stand taped to the top for cool mouth wah?!
Very cool. Thanks! I'll see what I can do.
Quote from: cab42 on August 07, 2011, 05:05:06 AM
Quote from: kinski on August 06, 2011, 10:54:46 PM
So I built this pedal a while back. Sounds great! However, I was wondering, would it be possible to add an expression jack, so I could use and expression pedal to control the manual wah? I guess at that point, I could just build a true wah pedal, but I'd still like to know if this would be possible.
Thanks for the help, and sorry if this was mention already in this thread. I tried to sift through to see, but its pretty long and may have missed it.
I'm fairly sure that I'm not able to stand on one leg, waving my foot in the the air and play guitar at the same time without some yoga training.
Regards
Carsten
get another leg... ;)
but seriously, i thought about the expression a while back, good idea,...... if i were to build it in a wah shell, i would have switching between caps too...bright and normal etc...experiment with the 'T'.... ;)
Just Built it from 10:30 to 2am :D i used perf and followed the pcb above.. its fricking hard man its so compacted! but focus is the only thing that makes my build 90percent working in first try! :D i was experiencing the LDR foot sensor " the thing doesnt work" but when i read about dark/light resistance and measure a ldr that is 800k - 1M turned the sensor and "boom" wah wah! it worked!
While doing the perf i forgot the c8 i installed 1 uf "damn" and i dont want to desolder my beautiful perf "i was trying to make like "FC" as clean as possible :)"
SO! i paralleled 10 uf instead and the effect is very cool my speed pot was 500k and c8 is 11uf im getting a slow speed and high speed that is usable and really kicks in when turning the pot ... another changes was the "TLE2072" superb IC i just replaced the TL072 and the beast becomes "beastiality " PLEASE TRY AND COMPARE TO HEAR THE DIFFERENCE" for me the pot speed becomes easy to dial and more speed and super slow speed :D try it
By the way im sleepy dont mind my terms and wrong grammar im tired! need to wake up early hahahahha
this is a good night sleep!
THANK YOU ROB!
last question where can i install or insert a jack for manual wah? i have expression pedal laying around.. and also the pot value?
thanks once again!
well done,..... on perf?..your brave ... ;D
glad you got it going man.......now have a good kip!..night night.... :icon_wink:
hahhaha Rob yah im so desperate to make one and for me making pcb is more job and hard work to me! hahaha glad i modify my post about expression pedal
anyone wants to perf it ? just follow the pcb and count the dots :D hahahahha
Thanks again rob!
Hi Guys!
So, this PCB is verified, right?
And C8 is 100µF and the speed Pot is 500K (470) lin?
I want this effect so bad, definately gonna make it asap! Many thanks Deadastronaut!
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 08, 2011, 08:01:23 AM
if anyone is remotely interested.... YAWN!... ;)
and fancies giving this a shot, heres the layout pdf, and pcb pdf ok....
ive made a pcb of it, (and one for armando :icon_wink:) but wont have time this weekend to build/verify it....ive checked it over many times and it all looks ok...
i re-breaded the lfo especially, and it looks cool to me!...blood sweat and many tantrums went into this @#$%er!!!!....but it looks ok now!... :icon_wink:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LIGHTWAHPCB2.pdf
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwah%20layout.pdf
hi dork, glad you like it , i do a lot... C8 is a 10uf..ok...and pot is 470k lin. ;)
ive built a few so yep!..its very verified ok. ;D
i'm currently working on a lightwah+distortion+fuzz in a 1590d, basically metallica+hillage in a box.. :icon_twisted:
Thanks Robert for the fast reply!
I still have a few questions:
I can´t find the 9V spot, and two resistors have no values. I added a Picture, so you can see what I mean:
(http://www.abload.de/img/lw17yjz.jpg)
Are both trannys 2N3904´s ?
Thank you, I already etched the PCB, ready to start in a few days (I have to take a look, if I have enough LDRs @ home).
I can´t wait, to start. I finished my Snow white Auto wah a few days before, but your Lightwah is definately much more interesting!
hi dork, i just updated the pdf, download it again its all ok now.....all corrected and those resistors have values on the layout too ok...
let us know how ya get on. good luck man. rob.
edit: yep thats the 9v... ;)
Thanks rob! Much appreciated!
I´ll let you know when "the Deadastronauts Box of Doom" is finished! :icon_mrgreen:
Cheers,
Chris
cool. look forward to it chris... :icon_cool:
meanwhile i'll keep floating around in space....... :icon_mrgreen:
edit: tip: use miniature/low profile electro's for a better fit into a 1590b.. ;)
I almost finished my build. I have to design an enclosure but the circuits is done. Everything works fine!! :icon_mrgreen:
Rob, just wow. It sounds great, unfortunately my spare time is limited today, so I´ll test it in the next few days.
But I already think, I like it more than my Snow white auto Wah!
Great job, mate!
great!...glad it works ok for ya!.. :icon_cool:
the wah sweep is nice on it isn't it, , i tamed the hissy screechy highs deliberately, i love it too....cool man, :icon_twisted:
look forward to seeing it boxed too... ;)
Hi Robert!
Yesterday I had some time to try the Lightwah. I still think its very nice, but the LFO Wah sounds a bit too dark for me. Do you have an idea what I should change to get a bit more treble?
I haven´t boxed it yet, I plan to make a big enclosure with 3-4 fx in it, and I wait for some IC´s to finish my small clone chorus.
Thanks,
Chris
try lowering the values of c5 , c6 and c7.... :)
http://www.morleypedals.com/clwes.pdf
here is the wah section schemo, ^ note the 5pf instead of 47pf.(c5)....in the 'T' section...
you may want to socket them if you want to try different values to your taste.... :)
Thanks, I try it in the next few days. Good Idea to socket ´em.
I already used a socked for C6 (I had no 6,8nF)!
I let you know which values work best for me!
cool, you could always have the caps switchable too...bright/normal etc... :)
i really love reading this thread.. And i really like the sound of your lightwah sir rob!!
.
I have some question sir!
Can i use 100k lin instead of 100k log for volume pot?
.
In your pdf there you can see board 1 so is there any 2nd board? Sorry im a beginner in this project and dont have enough knowledge for this thing.. Here in the philippines we cant find any log pots and 3pdt switch ordering them on internet cost much money a lot.. I purchased all but not the log pot..
hi gyjelgaven
if you really can't get a log pot then that will have to do...it will work as a volume, but just be a different feel...but yep it''ll work ok..
2nd pcb?.....nope!... there is only 1 pcb ok.
just remember i updated the pdf so C8 is a 10uf....ok all the best rob. ;)
thanks for reply sir rob! I just finished the lightwah but only the lfo wah is working ..there is no wah sound from manual wah and i dont know how to fix this issue.?. the volume pot and 2 other pot are working fine exept for depth pot i cant see or hear anything changes turning this pot.. By the way sir do you have a pcb layout only for manual wah using ldr and led/ldr like the sound like yours.. I really like your wah sound.. .
i'm sure rob'll be back with some answers and i can't be sure but at a guess it sounds like a short so maybe check your connections.
just a thought: in long project threads like this is it possible to edit the first post to point to verified schemes and layouts?
also, @rob: i stumbled upon this recently and thought of you: http://www.astronautsuicides.com/ (http://www.astronautsuicides.com/) (use the scroll wheel to, erm..., scroll!)
Quote from: gyjelgaven on October 19, 2011, 09:30:36 AM
thanks for reply sir rob! I just finished the lightwah but only the lfo wah is working ..there is no wah sound from manual wah and i dont know how to fix this issue.?. the volume pot and 2 other pot are working fine exept for depth pot i cant see or hear anything changes turning this pot.. By the way sir do you have a pcb layout only for manual wah using ldr and led/ldr like the sound like yours.. I really like your wah sound.. .
sir rob?.. :icon_redface: lol...
anyway, your wah and lfo are working so thats a good sign...
the depth will only work on the lfo auto wah setting ok...
have you wired the switch up properly?
is your manual wah led lighting up and fading with light/dark?...
go over your wiring connections..its probably something simple..i know its a pain but we all @#$% up sometiimes in the anxiety to get things going......well i do.. ;)
@artfus: that's me chiiling out.... :icon_mrgreen:
as for your post question, dunno, i know you can click on a certain post and copy the link so it goes straight there....otherwise no idea!..
i think i have to etch and drill a new one. Lots of headache from that perfboard. By the way does anyone have a pcb layout for morley wah using tlo71 or tlo72 with ldr wah controls.
Quote from: gyjelgaven on October 21, 2011, 05:32:45 PM
i think i have to etch and drill a new one. Lots of headache from that perfboard. By the way does anyone have a pcb layout for morley wah using tlo71 or tlo72 with ldr wah controls.
ahhh i see , you were on perf...
i haven't a pcb layout for the wah/ldr only...sorry.. :)
if i have time i'll knock one up ok... ;)
ok, i had a go at doing a LIGHTWAH without the lfo , check in my gallery for the pdf's.. ok!..unverified, but looks ok to me.. ;)
you could also add a pot with the led/ldr combo to have a c-o-c-k-e-d wah setting too..toggled of course..
as luck would have it a mate wants to add one of these to his project...if you verify it let us know... ;). 8)
i tried this circuit> 4shared.com/document/l5rKXWrj/Wah_Wah_-_Morley_Classic_Wah_-.html a classic morley wah in a breadboard but instead of using a 100kpot i used an ldr. The sound was like a volume pedal so i decided to replace .068 by .0068 and thats it! It sounds like your wah huwahh!! My question is how to obtain huwahisshh sound like using a 100kpot by using ldr. Ive also add a sense pot like yours.. 2nd question how to light led to be more lighter?
100k pot in a ldr?....sorry i don't understand that...
i used superbright blue leds...at the time. lights up fine...
lol! Sorry haha.. I mean using a 100k pot you can obtain huwahisshh sound..while an ldr you can only obtain huwahh.! And also i tried my phone camera flashes to ldr and it gives more wah than superbright led. I was using superbright led white and blue..
(http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn191/squigglefunk/multi_2.jpg)
light wah > echobase delay in one box. I have hooked up the wah/lfo switch to the second stomp from the right and I have rigged it up so the photoeye also can be used to control the LFO speed.
thanks for this excellent sounding effect deadastronaut!
One Q so far, I have a tiny bit of LFO noise... I tried looking through the thread but didn't see anything
is there any suggestions on how to eliminate it?
Thanks so much!
wow..squiggle.. :icon_eek: amazing build man, love it...i like the idea of the led lamp too...cool...(could've dc socketed that :icon_idea:) ;)
as for lfo noise , i never encountered any noise with any of my builds, i went through various lfo's to make sure i didn't...hmmmmm...
i'll have a think on that...hmmm could it be to do with your 'eye' controlling the speed mod?....
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 06, 2011, 08:44:11 AM
i'll have a think on that...hmmm could it be to do with your 'eye' controlling the speed mod?....
I am thinking that might be the case, I'm pretty it worked silently when used as built to the original specs, and it seemed to as well when the mod used its own photo eye...
I wanted to use one eye only for simplicity but I'll have to see how bad the ticking noise is in a gigging situation, if its unbearable then I'll look into using two eyes. its too much fun with the light controlled speed for the LFO. I just added an eye to the speed pot between the two connections and it gives a great range of speeds with the eye.
I love the idea of the dc jack for the light "antenna" and I actually have some of the ends here from another project... I might have to borrow that idea from ya, thanks :)
and again, thanks for the cool project :)
no problem , your welcome..
i like the idea of the speed ldr..cool...
so you can switch that speed ldr on/off then...is there any noise when its off?...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Z4kngdG9Lo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Z4kngdG9Lo)
here's a video, using the second footswitch to the right controls the changing from light wah to LFO wah. Then there's a secondary switch up by the LFO LED that will activate the eye for the LFO.
we'll see about the noise, last night it wasn't noticeable much at all ???
all in all it seems to be working pretty well so far, enough for my own use for sure :icon_wink:
nice one...the speed mod works well.....sounds great with the echobase too....cool...
i need new retinas though... :icon_eek: ... ;)
lol, yeah the LEDs are especially bright with the way the cam recorded. it is a crappy camera. ;D
thanx again for the cool project
etched and built this today....gotta say, this is an INCREDIBLY COOOOOOL pedal, majorly impressive
thanks for all the hard work and sharing of ideas.
Congratulations on a fantastic effect.
yay!...nice one lace..... :icon_cool:
gonna have to tweak it a bit I think, worked better outside the box (the proximity wah that is)
I think I have gunked up the LDR supergluing it to the back on an LED offcut :(
Hello all,
I tried breadboarding the lightwah light detecting section this morning, but i can't get the ld to light up.
I tried building the schematic circuit in the falstad applet, and it doesn't work too :
http://www.falstad.com/circuit/#%24+1+5.0E6+10.20027730826997+50+5.0+50%0AR+208+144+208+80+0+0+40.0+9.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0A174+208+144+208+240+0+10000.0+0.9950000000000001+Resistance%0Ag+208+240+208+288+0%0At+240+192+288+192+0+1+-8.79861064618451+-2.1657500001714958E-8+880.0%0Aw+240+192+224+192+0%0Aw+288+208+288+224+0%0A174+288+224+288+288+0+500000.0+0.8663000000000001+Resistance%0Aw+288+288+240+288+0%0Aw+240+288+240+192+0%0Aw+288+176+288+144+0%0A162+288+112+288+144+1+2.1024259+1.0+0.0+0.0%0Aw+288+112+240+112+0%0Aw+240+112+240+144+0%0Aw+240+144+208+144+0%0Aw+304+256+304+288+0%0Aw+304+288+288+288+0%0A
I modeled the LDR with a potentiometer, I think that should be ok, right?
I tried all values of beta (tranny), and combinations or resistances, i can't get the LED to light up, what am i not getting?
Also, I would have added a resistor between the led and the tranny to generate a current and protect the LED.
Anyway, I don't get why everybody has their fully pedal working while i can't get this simple snippet to work :( :p
I tried playing with the other circuits shown at the end of the page here : http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm and this works, even if the range of the LDR pot is really limited (LED lights up very fast, then stays fully turned on, might not be practical in real world use)
Also, how accurate is this applet? the more i play with it, the more i realize my intuition in electronics is to be developed! ^^
So, i made a backward search into the thread looking for the last schematic i could find and it turns out that the last one, posted by deadastronaut, had a connection to ground between the emitter and the LDR. That connection was missing in my version of the schematic. Tested it on java, breadboarded it, works perfectly!
The schematic that i used is quoted in this message. I only tested the footldr part of the schematic so far.
My LDR are pretty crappy: a few ohms when lighted, 35k when no light touch them. Still the sensitivity pot allows to make it work. I would be curious to know if a larger range LDR would not allow more flexibility in the sensitive setting, and a larger range of detection.
In my build, the sensitivity pot has to be fine tuned to be into the "led off-led almost-fully-on" range. And then i have to go pretty close to the LDR to make the change happen.
I thikn that's an issue with the LDR range but that's the only ones i could find locally. I'll have to order some.
Anyway, i hope that can help the people who had problems with the footldr part.
Peace,
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 20, 2011, 01:42:23 PM
they are 1M - ?..cant remember off hand...but definately 1M.....
your best bet is to check the schematic alongside the layout i did...as that works perfectly for sure!...just to be safe!. laborious i know, but it has to be right!...
is the wah working ok..is the light sensor part getting brighter as you cover the ldr?...
turn the sensor pot so the led is just off....then when you cover the ldr it should gradualy be on...
heres the sections of it if it helps ya ok...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahcheckout1.jpg)
@weu weii weii... yep get a larger ldr resistance that'll be much better..
i never tried anything more than 1m-ish..as thats what i had to hand really, .it'll be interesting to see how.. a much higher oner behaves..
glad you got it going!.. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 17, 2011, 02:30:18 AM
just remember i updated the pdf so C8 is a 10uf....ok all the best rob. ;)
hi! just a question would the update be for like polarity protection of some sort? is the updated pdf already up for download? again many thanks to sir rob for this cool pedal..
In the above schematic, should the sensitivity 470k in the bottom left be marked rate for the inbuilt LFO? If not, how is the rate set?
@joe, no polarity protection, i was just re-affirming the C8 is a 10uf...
here is the 'corrected layout ok.in the reply.... ;)
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg807440#msg807440
@james, yep its a 470k pot....its just the bad way the text was laid out... ;)
hmm.. second opamp not used? maybe a booster ala morley mark1..
i originally designed it for tl071...and then converted for tl072, just because people are more likely to have them in their bits boxes.....
i did oy with the idea of a envelope detector, but never got round to it....i might one day.. ;)
What an amazing pedal. Hats off to you Mr Astronaut.
This is DEFINITELY my next build. I'm pretty new to building pedals and was hoping someone would be kind enough to provide a full wiring diagram with the footwitch, DC, input/output jacks etc included?
I know that it's a pretty big ask but I would be eternally greatful if someone could have a go at drawing it up. I'm sure there's mre people than me who would benefit. ;D
Great work!
Quote from: threepwood on November 22, 2011, 05:15:36 AM
What an amazing pedal. Hats off to you Mr Astronaut.
This is DEFINITELY my next build. I'm pretty new to building pedals and was hoping someone would be kind enough to provide a full wiring diagram with the footwitch, DC, input/output jacks etc included?
I know that it's a pretty big ask but I would be eternally greatful if someone could have a go at drawing it up. I'm sure there's mre people than me who would benefit. ;D
Great work!
ok, heres a diagram and switch wiring tutorial...from gaussmarkov, (bookmark it ;)) i use this all the time...and saves me doing stuff too!..coz i'm a lazy sod!... :)
http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/
edit: i only use a psu, i don't use batteries so i only need to use 'mono' jacks....you only need to use a stereo jack if using batteries ok... :icon_cool:
Bookmarked!
Thank you, you're a gent!
i know!... ;)
Ha ha.
Arghh.. 2 last questions (hopefully) :icon_redface:
On the top right of the layout pdf there is something marked sw1 sw2 sw3
Am I right in guessing that this is the left 3 lugs of the footswitch?
Should all LEDs have resistors attached?
Thanks again!
SW1/2/3 is for a toggle switch...so you switch between footwah, lfo wah...its an spdt switch.
all resistors are on pcb....apart from your footswitch one which is off board ok...
heres a pic..
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P140711_12.32.jpg)
Fantastic. Thank you sir.
Am I right in thinking that the LDR on the op amp feedback could be replaced by just about anything such as a transistor or potentiometer to sweep the wah? Love the sound of this thing.
the wah can be swept/fixed with the sensor pot anyway......dark and light!....back n forth!..
expression pedal?.. :icon_idea: is that what your thinking..
I was thinking about mapping input amplitude to wah sweep so it works like an auto wah.
hmmmm interesting...sounds like a good option/addition... :icon_cool:
I'm just putting a parts list together and was wondering what size enclosures you guys are using?
1590b....hammond/eddystone... :)
I got turned on to your project just about a week ago, man I love it! Your video demo are really awesome! Putting this on my to-do list, hopefully sooner than later..Did any LDR work fine for the external sensor? I usually use the only one that Tayda sells..
cool: i used a 5k-1M ldr... ;)
I can attest that with a 10r - 22k LDR, the external sensor does not work when placed into a led bezel under a clear led :)
Waiting for my tayda order too .. it's been sent 10 days ago .. i check the mailbox everyday with a thrill ..... and don't find anything .. i have 4 projects depending of this shipping :)
Quote from: bigmufffuzzwizz on November 28, 2011, 11:36:34 AM
I got turned on to your project just about a week ago, man I love it! Your video demo are really awesome! Putting this on my to-do list, hopefully sooner than later..Did any LDR work fine for the external sensor? I usually use the only one that Tayda sells..
ahhhhh patience!!!!... :icon_cool:
Has anyone got a photo of how they have mounted the LDR inside the LED bezel?
i haven't, this is what i did..
i took a clear lens led cut off the legs and sanded/filed the bottom flat then using the ridge of the led i glued it into a bezel...
then i put heat shrink on th legs of the ldr and put a blob of superglue on the top face of the ldr and pushed it into the bezel...then put your
bezel gromet on the legs of the ldr....sorted!... ;)
Hmm... I think I see what you mean. It's a little hard to visualise without the parts in front of me. I'm sure I'll bodge something together!
Thanks.
why the heat shrink on the legs of ldr?
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 29, 2011, 08:38:07 AM
i haven't, this is what i did..
i took a clear lens led cut off the legs and sanded/filed the bottom flat then using the ridge of the led i glued it into a bezel...
then i put heat shrink on th legs of the ldr and put a blob of superglue on the top face of the ldr and pushed it into the bezel...then put your
bezel gromet on the legs of the ldr....sorted!... ;)
just to stop them little spindly legs touching the inside of the metal bezel :)
I just built it using this schematic and deadastronaut's layout ..
it works great ... but i got ticking each time the LFO led turns on and off..
i have reread the thread about the ticking thing and it seems there is no mention of that for a long time ..
Does anyone have an idea on what i could try to get rid of this? first time i mess with LFO's and i don't have any idea what could cause that.. i guess it's around the LFO IC, but that's all :)
thanks in advance.. can't wait to put this in a box!!!!! !! !! !! !! !! !!!
:)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahcheckout1.jpg)
hi add:
ive never had ticking with this build, and i've built a few...its a really good and quiet lfo...
out of curiosity what leds did you use?.....
I used an ultra bright blue 5mm for the internal LFO, 5mm green for the external LFO, ultra bright red 5mm for the foot and 5mm red for the external foot.
I tried with 2 utrabright in a row but they would barely light up ... using one normal one fixed it.
I also hear a BIG volume drop when the effect is engaged so i guess theres another problem .. maybe theres a very faint ticking in your effect and it's not hearable with a normal output volume ..
I'm certain there are some mistakes in what i did as it was my very first home etched board :) i'm already VEYR surprised it works (after a few hours of debugging the light sensitive part of the circuit .. (i never understood what didn't worked.. i finally desoldered everything and repopulated the board from scratch while checking continuity for each component ... :) )
the sounds pretty cool anyway :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 05, 2011, 11:04:06 AM
hi add:
ive never had ticking with this build, and i've built a few...its a really good and quiet lfo...
out of curiosity what leds did you use?.....
i used bright blue 5mm on pcb board for the foot wah.....bright 3mm blue on box.
and bright 5mm yellow for the lfo on pcb board ..bright 3mm yellow on box.
Can the choice of diodes make a circuit tick?
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 05, 2011, 11:39:02 AM
i used bright blue 5mm on pcb board for the foot wah.....bright 3mm blue on box.
and bright 5mm yellow for the lfo on pcb board ..bright 3mm yellow on box.
i'm not sure on that, but thats the only difference i can think of...
i tried many different colours, and settled on those...with no problems with ticking whatsoever...even loud!.....hmmmm..... :)
mr.deadastronaut can i use this control pedal from pod xt live for this lightwah project? if so,how to convert this?I am building a multieffect using xt live housing.
(http://s11.postimage.org/5vz1890u7/PC091406.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/5vz1890u7/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/h9lkjgbcv/PC091408.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/h9lkjgbcv/)
(http://s11.postimage.org/sn83unlvj/PC091411.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/sn83unlvj/)
hi fretz:, i guess you would have to treat it as in the morley way of doing things...
having a gradient (teardrop) slot, covering and exposing the led to the ldr.....as your treadle goes up/down....
just build the wah section, the tricky part will be getting the gradient just right to your ears...it'll be cool though when you get it sussed... :icon_cool:
thanks deadastronaut for the fast reply.so i have to remove all these components and replace it with new pcb/components?i thought i could still utilize the circuit and just modify it for the lightwah application.Is there any other way to use the circuit?
not too sure on that setup you have there...is is a pot?...or is it a led/ldr already?...
i guess you could hook up your dmm to those wires coming off the pcb, and see which ones give a reading as you move it!...
The two components right under the pedal are labelled D3 and Q29 and i'm confused why Q29.Is there a light dependent transistor?I only know LDR.I will try to supply it with 5 volts as that was what i measured before i disassemble the unit.But confusing because it consist of 6 wires.
yeah might be photo/transistor....hmmm....ive never used one of those!...just ldr's..
have you got a pic of the inner workings?....
What you mean inner workings? under side of the pcb?haven't removed it yet from the housing.I thought somebody already figured it out.If it is really needed i will remove it so we could trace the circuit.
It' working! :)
I checked the values of all components.. turns out i had put 150K resistors in place of the two 1M for the voltage divider before IC1, and also for R8 .. i changed all that and i still had the volume drop. then i decided to double check all values of the components of the board since i was obviously VERY distracted when i populated it .. (first homemade board withough silkscreen ... might explain that too). It turns out C4 was a 1nF cap instead of a 1uF one .. changed it, if works perfectly.
I REALLY should be more careful when i build.. i think i remember i had wine at the dinner and one or two beer with friends after that, then i came back home and started populating Oo. might explain that.. it' scary when you think of it obvious mistakes that are made because of drinking one glass too much.
Anyway, it works perfectly . ticking is gone too
I find the LFO a bit too sharp for my taste, i might try to mod the pedal to add a smooth switch or something like that in the future.
Thanks for your help!
Quote from: add4 on December 05, 2011, 11:42:35 AM
Can the choice of diodes make a circuit tick?
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 05, 2011, 11:39:02 AM
i used bright blue 5mm on pcb board for the foot wah.....bright 3mm blue on box.
and bright 5mm yellow for the lfo on pcb board ..bright 3mm yellow on box.
yay!..it works!... great!.. yeah its easy to get distracted when building, its usually my cat that distracts me...
lfo too sharp?...are your led/ldr's right butted up to each other../... try widening the gap a little...
they are!
i'll try that thanks
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 13, 2011, 08:39:21 AM
yay!..it works!... great!.. yeah its easy to get distracted when building, its usually my cat that distracts me...
lfo too sharp?...are your led/ldr's right butted up to each other../... try widening the gap a little...
Hey naut , where's thy schematic :icon_mrgreen:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88582.msg820716#msg820716
searcheth and thoust shall findeth thy schematicus.... ;)
Just a question out of curiosity: how do you hold the 3 mm less without bezels?
what's the box? i used this :
http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p582_Box-Type-B.html
and it's really small to stuff all that.. in fact the dc jack and one of the pots are colliding .. i might never be able to use the one i've made .. :p
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 02, 2011, 12:26:57 PM
yeah i know, yawn!......i built another 2 lightwahs...... :icon_rolleyes:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_17.02.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_17.04%5B01%5D.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_17.05.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/P020811_16.58.jpg)
works fine!... ;)
tip. use low profile miniature electro's ...with the switch in the middle... ;)
hi add...
its an eddystone 1590b..
drill 3mm holes, and superglue just the lip/ridge of the leds and push in place...very solid..
note i used a small dc socket...not those 12.4 mm big @#$%ers....and low profile caps too... :)
Good solutions!! didn't thought of glueing things in a pedal :p
Where do you find these nice adaptators? my drill hates drilling 13mm holes in the boxes.
Quote from: deadastronaut on December 17, 2011, 05:40:12 AM
hi add...
its an eddystone 1590b..
drill 3mm holes, and superglue just the lip/ridge of the leds and push in place...very solid..
note i used a small dc socket...not those 12.4 mm big @#$%ers....and low profile caps too... :)
i drill 10mm holes...thats the max my old drill will take, then i open them more with a reamer...a really great and useful tool.
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=reamer&hl=en&safe=off&prmd=imvns&resnum=3&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1887&bih=969&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=949745905530156716&sa=X&ei=h8btTu7bOou58gOLsOntCQ&ved=0CGwQ8wIwAA
oh dear!!!
some guy emailed me, he bought one of my lightwahs off some guy, all was fine then he mistakenly put 18volts supply on it..
and now it won't work...surprise surprise ::)
what would you guys say was blown on it?...op amps tl072's and leds...?....
Well if he used tl072 no!They can handle 36 volts....(+-18) http://lukas.cerro.sk/upload/2009/03/datasheet_TL072.pdf (http://lukas.cerro.sk/upload/2009/03/datasheet_TL072.pdf)
Probably some electros blown....(don't have the schematic on my table so i can't tell for sure...)
The good news is that the guy can see what went wrong!
Well when electros blow you can see it...
And well when leds don't light up ,you can't see them! ;D
quick question.
This will be my first anything that had an LDR so I don't know much about them and how they are spec'd.
In one of the posts you mentioned using..5k-1M; Was that for all of them or just the foot?
Also, taking a guess that you mean 5k light resistance & 1M Min Dark (making the assumption from smallbear's site).
Any help with regards to these would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
yep they'll be fine in all ldrs ok.... ;)
Available LDR here is very limited in terms of values(they only know LDR and that's it-no impedance range) but i have an extra VTL5C10 is this applicable to this circuit?As per datasheet impedance is 400ohms to 400k,big difference on recommended 5k to 1M.
Thanks
hi fretz: hmmmm, not sure on the range of wah you'd get out of that.... :-\
Tsk tsk I already bought bunch of LDR's but no match to the recommended value.Have to find somewhere else.Thanks deadastronaut for the clarification
Hey Rob,
This sounds like a fun circuit! I was wondering, as a mod idea, could you add a switch or something, so that the effect would only affect volume, sort of like how a volume pedal works i guess. Sometimes when i'm using delay i like to do swells, and im destroying the pot on my guitar :icon_neutral:
Paul
hi paul, i'm guessing here but, i suppose if you bypassed (jumped) the t-filter that would work.... :icon_cool:
the original was going to have tremolo too on it....which would have acted the same...swelling up /down etc...i'll have a think... :)
ok had a think.....excuse the bad schematic diagram... ::)
i think this would work by bypassing the filter,(adding switch 2) but still have the depth/lfo etc....let me know how you get on...it would be a great addition...
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwah-tremolo.jpg)
like this i think.....
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/tremmod1.jpg)
Thanks for the info Rob! Ok so bypassing that res / cap network should get a sort of, tremolo "volume" effect. I think ill have to give this one a go!
Sorry, one more question, is there a PCB layout for it yet?
Paul
yep sure is...in my gallery ;).....its just a guess, but the mod looks plausible to me...
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/
if you give me a while, i'll try and incorporate the pads for that switch too ok..with a bit of jiggling about..!!!!!... :P
ok paul, ive modded the layout and pcb,(added the pads) they are in my gallery now ok...have fun
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/chickpea/?g2_page=4
let me know how you get on....cheers rob. :)
wow thats service :D thanks rob! im going to try this out :icon_cool:
your welcome.. ;)
so hopefully its the same as this , but with optional tremolo/swells too....that'd be cool.... :icon_cool:
Yeah man, that would be awesome!!
Hey, sorry to be a total nub here but i was going to print off the layout but that link doesnt work...for some reason? Is it working for you? Could you post the layout in this thread if you can access it? otherwise ill just try later on, might be a DNS problem or something...
Edit: yep, navigatored there manually, definitely appears to be MIA.
yeah i can access it...
you click on download document...top left....sorted :)
And there it is!! Must have been a DNS issue. I was getting 404. Thanks again!
Paul
someone asked for a tremolo mod schematic so here it is.........haven't tried it myself, but looks like it may be ok......unverified as yet!
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahtremolomod1.jpg)
Wasn't this originally a vero layout? I cant find it if so!
And I'm a bit confused on this perf layout (i really wanna build this and really hate perf so I'm hoping there's a vero!) So what kind of LDR's work best here? where did you get yours? I've had bad luck building effects with homemade optocouplers, I always just like to pay the extra dough for the vactrols or the nsl32's. But if you know the exact LDR you used that would be awesome!!!
Thanks for this awesome project... agian where can I find the vero layout?
Claytus
i never made a vero layout, only pcb...
i rolled my own led/ldrs...works fine... mine iirc were a few k' to 1M ...
iirc someone said there was a vero on the 'other' forum...someone might chime in and help you on that!.. ;)
Seen this?
http://www.ehx.com/products/crying-tone
yeah i saw that......a few design flaws imo....you have to calibrate it everytime you move it....and you can't have half c.ocked either...jacks always moving etc....nahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!... :-X
there was a discussion on that a while back..
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 29, 2012, 07:23:55 AM
yeah i saw that......a few design flaws imo....you have to calibrate it everytime you move it....and you can't have half c.ocked either...jacks always moving etc....nahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!... :-X
there was a discussion on that a while back..
I saw a youtube video justifying the design as "building a better mousetrap" (on the basis of no exposed parts to get scratchy over time), but that to me ain't a better mousetrap...sure it might solve the problem of dust, dirt getting into the main pot, but by the looks of it introduces quirks which could be a real annoyance.
Great work Rob! I'm going to have to build this after the competition! :)
Hey there.
Just wondering if I would need to make any changes to resistors etc if I wanted to use 5mm external LEDs rather 3mm as usgested in the layout? Also would it be possible possible to add a second sensor LED?
Thanks in advance.
Been looking for an effect that does the auto mode on this one, so this is on my build list. Am I correct in assuming I just need to leave off the external LED, external LDR, and the LDR/LED pair that connects to switch 1? It's a little hard to tell from the schematic (which is cut off?) whether LED2 and that LDR are part of the footwah part.
Quote from: threepwood on June 29, 2012, 11:56:55 AM
Hey there.
Just wondering if I would need to make any changes to resistors etc if I wanted to use 5mm external LEDs rather 3mm as usgested in the layout? Also would it be possible possible to add a second sensor LED?
Thanks in advance.
probably be ok using 5mm's..
2nd sensor led, yep again probably be ok in series...(but build the pcb and try/test it first before drilling box ok...might be dimmer....)
Quote from: midwayfair on June 29, 2012, 01:57:35 PM
Been looking for an effect that does the auto mode on this one, so this is on my build list. Am I correct in assuming I just need to leave off the external LED, external LDR, and the LDR/LED pair that connects to switch 1? It's a little hard to tell from the schematic (which is cut off?) whether LED2 and that LDR are part of the footwah part.
heres the schematic without the foot sensor etc.., there is a trem/swell mod too (sw2) that i never actually tried, but the rest will be ok...
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/LIGHTWAHNOFFOT.jpg)
So ... built an auto-only version up tonight (on my own layout) and the LFO wasn't working -- full brightness the whole time (the dry path is also dead, but I think it's because the LDR is just dumping my signal to ground since it's on all the way). After much trouble shooting and unable to find any mistakes, I went back and compared the previous layout and older schematics. Long story short, there's a mistake in the most recent schematic; the 150K going from the speed pot back to IC2 should connect to pin2, not pin 1, according to older schematics.
--The wah mode is working now. It sounds really, really nice! Much more rich in person than the demos. However, the tremolo mode doesn't work at all -- no sound except the LFO ticking. I think that's another mistake in the schematic -- that's should be a ST switch, so that flipping it connects all three switch terminals and keeps the feedback loop in the circuit, right? It's a little too late at night here for me to experiment.
--I'm getting some LFO ticking, even after I electronically separated the LFO from the wah via a 100R and 47uF to ground at depth settings above ~3:00. I had to use a jumper to connect the second voltage source to the LFO IC, but I'm not sure that's the culprit. Could it be that I'm using a vactrol (VTL5C1), so the depth is just much more extreme? A small resistor between the series LEDs squelched it, but it also deadens the effect. Does anyone have any more ideas?
--Finally, I think it's possible (and easy) to cop some controls from the Lune and add e.g. a wave form knob for sine <> square forms. This could be fun for anyone who wants to play with the auto mode exclusively. I'll report back after further experimentation tomorrow. :)
hi jon, sorry to hear about your probs....yep you are correct on the 150k...oops.. ::)
heres the full layout to reference to.., i never tried the trem/swell mod, it was just a quick idea i had..(just being greedy)
i ike the idea of poaching the lune bits....cool.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/FULLLAYOUTLIGHTWAH.jpg)
Thanks! It's all better now, except for the LED ticking, but that's pretty minimal even with a red LED when using the vactrol (I swapped out a few and tried the roll my own method ... the Vactec sounded the best to my ears, a really rich full voweling with the least amount of ticking).
This was a really cool project, so thanks for working so hard to get it to its current state.
I made a perf layout for the auto mode only that fits in a 1590A:
(http://jonpattonmusic.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/lightwah-auto-only.png?w=800)
PDF: http://jonpattonmusic.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/lightwah-auto-only.pdf
This layout is not fully verified (I'm working on it), but it has been thoroughly checked and was adapted from a verified layout. I used a slightly different layout for the perf one I built yesterday, then redrew it today. This one is much cleaner.
I also made a few other changes (some simply to get the circuit smaller for the mini build) and discoveries:
Waveform mod did not work, at least, not in a way I can get working. Someone smarter than me might be able to figure it out. The topology is just different enough from the Tremulus Lune's LFO to make it not work regardless of the wiring.
However -- very exciting! -- a ramp mod is possible! It's really easy and it sounds very cool. Just use an on/off/on switch and wire the center lug to one of the speed pot's lugs, then put 1N914s on the other lugs (one is backwards) and then wire their other terminals together and back to the other lug of the speed knob. This trick general works in any LFO, so no surprise that it works here. In the "ramp down" mode, it sounds more like an envelope filter. In the "ramp up" mode, it's just a little different. For added thrills, I stuck a Nurse Quacky after it and let the ramp's "stabs" active the filter. Very crazy. It might be worth combining the circuits at some point .... :)
3. I found the input loading to be a bit extreme unless there was a gain pedal in front. The high e string was just disappearing on any depth settings below maximum (even with a vactrol doing the heavy lifting and a red LED [instead of the blue] for the external -- the LED affects the overall tone). I can understand why it was designed that way -- from your demo it's pretty obvious that you use a lot of gain -- but I found that just using a 1nF cap at the input was sufficient. Similarly, a volume (trim)pot on the output was sufficient for my purposes, and without the 3.3K and 6.8K it was necessary to reduce the output cap and volume pot size to keep a cutoff frequency similar to the original.
good work jon, seems like you've had a right good time of experimenting on it,
yep i tried lots of led colours too...
sounds like the ramp idea is a cool mod too...
clips?#
edit: i laways wanted to add an envelope filter to it too....just never got round to it... :)
Sure thing, clips as soon as I can get it boxed and have some time to play my electric without annoying the neighbors! I can't shred like you can, but I'll try to come up with something cool for it. :)
Small layout's verified -- I just finished it about an hour ago and it works really well. Sounds almost identical except NO TICKING! Woohoo.
Oh ... discovered another possible mod, not sure how useful it is, because it precludes using the rate LED as an indicator: You could get a parked wah/filter by switching in a Germanium diode across the rate LED (same orientation). It still moves a VERY VERY small amount, almost imperceptibly, and sounds just like a parked wah. The depth knob becomes a frequency control in that mode. It has to be germanium -- silicon clips too high to work this way.
I have a question if you don't mind, if one wanted to shift the sweep to be more trebly, it's just a matter of reducing the 6n8 and 4n7 caps -- to, say, 4n7 and 2n2? I'm still trying to get a handle on filters.
Again, thanks for such a cool circuit. It's really made the weekend fly by. :)
cool, glad you got your head around it, yeah IIRC those cap swaps should work....(in the ''T'')
look forward to ya clips...sounds interesting. :icon_cool:
Hey everyone,
is someone making PCBs for this awesome pedal? (or have a spare 1?)
Thanks.
^ yes. £8.00 GBP each. (paypal) includes postage,
pm me ok....
I'm so excited to get started on this. I think I'm going to put this in a wah shell as to control the footwah part without having to depend on the available surrounding light.
yeah cool idea, just use the sensor inside it instead....no scratchy pot. ;)
I'm not using a pot. I plan on printing a color gradient onto a transparency to control the light to the ldr.
cool. :icon_cool:
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on September 10, 2012, 11:44:35 AM
I'm not using a pot. I plan on printing a color gradient onto a transparency to control the light to the ldr.
It will be interesting to see how the colors work out. The LDR responses more to certain wavelengths, your light source only emits certain wavelengths, and the colors on your transparency only transmit certain wavelengths. You might see a nonlinear response as you sweep the transparency back and forth.
You might consider using a black gradient such one of these if the color doesn't work out for you.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/82CAAE58-F6AE-4A78-8F9E-7B0DD276145F-1941-000002C809783D30.jpg)
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/610768E9-E657-46B9-B977-50B44A07D031-1941-000002C80062FF76.jpg)
@ john
Oh, I didn't mean 'color'... I meant black. I'm probably going to use the ones you just posted.(thanks :P) and if that doesn't work I'll use the v shaped slit method. Having the gradual v shaped slit in an opaque sheet of plastic will slowly allow more light to hit the ldr as its passed between.
Quote from: claytushaywood on June 28, 2012, 05:32:24 PM
Wasn't this originally a vero layout? I cant find it if so!
And I'm a bit confused on this perf layout (i really wanna build this and really hate perf so I'm hoping there's a vero!) So what kind of LDR's work best here? where did you get yours? I've had bad luck building effects with homemade optocouplers, I always just like to pay the extra dough for the vactrols or the nsl32's. But if you know the exact LDR you used that would be awesome!!!
Thanks for this awesome project... agian where can I find the vero layout?
Claytus
I think you may have confused this for my frankenstien pulse wah. i till haven't debugged and verified the vero layout.
Just finished assembly and the circuit is working - but the effect is not very pronounced at all - in wah or LFO mode.
I suspect it's to do with the combination of LDR and LEDs.
The LDRs I have are as follows :
QuoteResistance at 10 lux = 50 -100k Ohms Dark resistance = 20 M Ohms Rise time 20ms Decay time 30ms
I have them heatshrinked in with 5mm ultrabright blues (both).
Any hints as to where I should start adjusting other components to calibrate ? Or should I swap out the LDRs ??
(Edit - I see that Rob's LDRs are 5k-1M , quite a difference, dang - is there any hope for the LDRs I have??)
LDRs are quite color-sensitive... (the ones I know react the best @ 550-600nm)
LEDs do come in other colors (http://science-edu.larc.nasa.gov/EDDOCS/Wavelengths_for_Colors.html) than blue...
I'm sitting here working on the lightwah and listening to the Wooden Shjips station on Pandora and this song comes on:
What a coincidence.
Quote from: puretube on September 17, 2012, 05:10:30 PM
LDRs are quite color-sensitive... (the ones I know react the best @ 550-600nm)
LEDs do come in other colors (http://science-edu.larc.nasa.gov/EDDOCS/Wavelengths_for_Colors.html) than blue...
Good call, PT. Additive color theory suggests approximately:
400 to 500nm = Blue
500 to 600nm = Green
700 to 700nm = Red
Although suggested in reality:
450 to 495nm = Blue
495 to 570nm = Green
620 to 750nm = Red
Try a Green?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Visible_spectrum
*link added for posterity*
i seem to recall mark hammer posting a chart in which ldrs 'liked'' yellows
when i created this on breadboard yellow was fine for the lfo, and blue was fine for the foot wah.
Thanks guys - I found an old LDR with a better range that improves the actual footwah detector. Trouble is that it's 13mm in diameter so it's not going to look good on the box ! Will keep experimenting.
Well, I'm stumped. I built this from the pdf and I'm getting no lfo. The lfo led is full brightness. Halp!
Need some pin voltages?
I had the same thing when I built mine, HYSH.
Turns out it was a short between pins 2 and 3 of the LFO IC. Well worth checking your voltages and if any seem to be identical, check for shorts.
1. 6.94
2. 6.94
3. 6.84
4. 0.2 mv
5. 6.92
6. 6.92
7. 6.92
8. 13.6
ic1
1. 6.74
2. 6.74
3.6.43
4. 0.1 mv
.
.
.
8. 13.56
Its a zoom walwart. It says 9v 300ma but with no load it reads 15.3v.... do you think that's my problem
edit nvm I just tested it with my regulated 9v supply and got the same result
IC2 is the one in question.
Have you checked for shorts between pins 1 and 2. Between pins 5 and 6 ?
No shorts anywhere. I went over the whole board with my flux pick and did a visual inspection then tested with my meter. I'm starting to lose hope. I may just do a total rebuild. Etch a new board. New parts, new everything
Edited due to erroneous information. :icon_redface: :icon_redface: :icon_redface:
Quote from: Jdansti on September 19, 2012, 03:22:31 PM
You've probably already done all of this, but:
Check LFO:
Resistor values
C2, C9, Q2 orientation
Pot for proper operation
What layout are you talking about? the layout I'm using has no c9 and the c2 is a non-polarized film cap. this is the layout i'm using:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=45818
Edited due to erroneous information. :icon_redface: :icon_redface: :icon_redface:
Folks, remember, that schem has a mistake. The 1590 going from lugs 1 and 2 of the speed pot goes to Pin2, not pin1 as currently shown, and the tremolo switch doesn't work.
HYSH, Silly question but ... are you in LFO and not manual mode? Pics of the board?
Quote from: midwayfair on September 19, 2012, 08:55:45 PM
Folks, remember, that schem has a mistake. The 1590 going from lugs 1 and 2 of the speed pot goes to Pin2, not pin1 as currently shown, and the tremolo switch doesn't work.
HYSH, Silly question but ... are you in LFO and not manual mode? Pics of the board?
Jon,
Thanks for the reminder. It looks to me that the layout he's using has been corrected: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=45818. Do you agree?
Thanks for helping guys :) jon's comment got my hopes up then john's crushed me :icon_lol: here's some pics
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC07769_zps818bb534.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC07770_zps345208cf.jpg)
What are the values of C1, C4, and C8 on your board? They appear to be tants. Check the values and the polarity of these.
The resistors that I can see look good, although I can't see the upright ones including the pairs that you put together to make larger resistors. You might want to check these as well.
Quote from: Jdansti on September 19, 2012, 10:23:39 PM
Quote from: midwayfair on September 19, 2012, 08:55:45 PM
Folks, remember, that schem has a mistake. The 1590 going from lugs 1 and 2 of the speed pot goes to Pin2, not pin1 as currently shown, and the tremolo switch doesn't work.
HYSH, Silly question but ... are you in LFO and not manual mode? Pics of the board?
Jon,
Thanks for the reminder. It looks to me that the layout he's using has been corrected: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=45818. Do you agree?
thats is correct, thats the final build design i verified!...
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 20, 2012, 03:31:58 AM
Quote from: Jdansti on September 19, 2012, 10:23:39 PM
Quote from: midwayfair on September 19, 2012, 08:55:45 PM
Folks, remember, that schem has a mistake. The 1590 going from lugs 1 and 2 of the speed pot goes to Pin2, not pin1 as currently shown, and the tremolo switch doesn't work.
HYSH, Silly question but ... are you in LFO and not manual mode? Pics of the board?
Jon,
Thanks for the reminder. It looks to me that the layout he's using has been corrected: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=45818. Do you agree?
thats is correct, thats the final build design i verified!...
I was just reminding them in case he checked his layout against the schem, so he didn't think there was something wrong with the etch.
I'm going to post detailed pics of the rebuild just in case the same thing happens. Here's the new pcb. I tested the continuity of all the traces and it's all good.
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC07772_zps8b0d2356.jpg)
I got this finished and working well after some experimenting with LEDs and LDRs.
Thanks to deadastronaut for a great scheme.
One thing - In a fit of bravado, I tried the volume/trem mod. When I switch it over from wah to vol, I just get silence.
Anyone get this part working ??
For the record -
(1) I cut the short track between C2 and C5
(2) The C2 side of the cut goes to the centre of the switch.
(3) The C5 side of the cut goes to one end of the switch - when these are made, Wah mode is on - working fine.
(4) The other end of the switch goes to +ve side of C4 - pin 1 of IC1.
Helpsies ??
so I did a total rebuild and i got the same problem this is the layout i went by. i followed it perfectly it's the one from page 29. my heart hurts from the frustration i had to take my anti anxiety meds :icon_eek:
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/FULLLAYOUTLIGHTWAH.jpg)
HYSH, does your manual mode work?
I'll take voltages tomorrow evening. A little late for me now.
Wait a tick ... what's your value of R12, the resistor between Q1 and D2?
Manual mode works just fine. The LFO just won't O! :icon_lol:
R12 is 100ohm brown black brown. I tried cutting the trace between pins 6&7 on ic2, just tinkering trying to get any reaction, and it made the lfo led brighter but it didnt help so I re-soldered the pins.
I'm feeling much more calm and collected after taking a break (and a xanax) :icon_lol: which is effective because I just spilled my box of a few thousand diodes and opamps and I didn't spout out even one curse word ;D
HYSH - Check the polarity of your LEDs. The + markers are hard to see on the layout and I had one in back-to-front when I first built the PCB. Also - I found that shorting the 100R resistor in front of the LED improves the intensity of the LFO mode.
^that was the first thing i checked the first time i built it. all of my polarities are correct according to the layout. im getting light from all 4 leds, just no oscillation
What about your standing resistors near IC2? the north one is 6.8K, and the metal film one is 1M? Have you verified the proper connections against the schematic (the correct one, before the trem switch was added) with a multimeter?
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on September 27, 2012, 08:55:29 AM
^that was the first thing i checked the first time i built it. all of my polarities are correct according to the layout. im getting light from all 4 leds, just no oscillation
That's right, I forgot - you're getting a solid light instead of pulsing. I had that issue too, but I found a short between two pins on IC2.
Not sure where to go next - maybe swap out the IC ?
Post your IC2 voltages and I'll compare them with mine - might help.
in order 1-8 of ic2
4.26
4.20
4.10
0
4.16
4.15
4.15
8.06
@ Jon
can you re-post the correct schem? there's a million in this thread
heres some pics. im aware that the 6.8k are 68k in the pic, but i caught that and used 6.8k
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC07773.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC07779.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC07780.jpg)
(http://i1267.photobucket.com/albums/jj545/haveyouseenhim/DSC07781.jpg)
Reposting -- Henry, please confirm that this is the most recent, definitely-correct iteration prior to the tremolo switch being added? [At any rate, this is the schem I used for my LFO-only version]
HYSH, it's not relevant and it's not affecting the LFO, but your tepees are 1.002M. You'd need a 200K resistor; you have a 2K.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwahcheckout1.jpg)
yep thats the one!..
now i just feel silly ;D
*Edit* i fixed the 1.2m resistors
That schematic confused the hell out of me until I realised that the Sensitivity pot on the LFO side was actually the Speed pot :icon_redface:
HYSH - Checking voltages is a challenge - the LFO has them constantly moving, even at lowest speed. That said.
Pins 1-8 in order are.
1 to 8V
3.5 to 5V
3 to 6V
0V
4 to 5V
4 to 5V
4 to 5V
9.1V
What voltage are you getting at the positive side of D1 - how does that compare to the IC voltages?
Quote from: scuzzphut on September 27, 2012, 03:21:08 PM
I realised that the Sensitivity pot on the LFO side was actually the Speed pot :icon_redface:
oops!.. :icon_redface:
AAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My LFO is O-ing. to me it looked like the led was flashing at a very high speed, kindof like a fluorescent bulb. so i made a light to sound circuit on my bread board to see if the speed knob would change the frequency AND IT DID. so i just replaced the 10k speed pot with a 1m AND IT WORKEDDDDDD :icon_surprised: :icon_surprised: :icon_surprised: :icon_surprised: ive never been so satisfied with a debug!
whooooooooooohoooooooooooooooooooooooo.................. :icon_mrgreen:
cool........ :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Explain yourself Mr. Astronaut.......... Putting out faulty layouts and whatnot :icon_lol:
thanks for the awesome pedal
:D believe me the lightwah was a massive learning curve for a dumbass like me .....i knew what i wanted, but only had half an idea on how to go about it...
i'm still a dumbass ....but i have lots of fun while creating stuff!.. :icon_mrgreen:
glad ya got it going man!... 8)
(working on another mad creation now) ;)
Quote from: haveyouseenhim on September 27, 2012, 03:35:49 PM
AAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My LFO is O-ing. to me it looked like the led was flashing at a very high speed, kindof like a fluorescent bulb. so i made a light to sound circuit on my bread board to see if the speed knob would change the frequency AND IT DID. so i just replaced the 10k speed pot with a 1m AND IT WORKEDDDDDD :icon_surprised: :icon_surprised: :icon_surprised: :icon_surprised: ive never been so satisfied with a debug!
oh holy crap. All that time I was staring at your board, I didn't even think to ask what value your speed pot was! I used 500K.
Well, now you have TWO Lightwahs! Time to run them in series. :D
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 28, 2011, 11:46:52 AM
cool: i used a 5k-1M ldr... ;)
Do these fit the bill?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-Light-Dependent-Resistor-Photo-Photoresistor-LDR-/120689977478?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c19aee886#ht_1043wt_952
@ Barbara thanks alot ;). at least you know your way around a circuit. im just barely a step above a paint by numbers builder
@ Jon Yea, it had me stumped for a while because im so dependent on layouts. i can read schematics but i struggle. One is going in a wah shell and the other in a 125b
Thanks for both of your help :icon_smile:
@mike: no probs!..glad to see others enjoy it too...all part of the diysb ethos!.. ;)
look forward to seeing/hearing all you guys builds. 8)
@threep: yep they'll be fine...and nice n cheap too.. :icon_cool:
I had a quick question regarding the schematics and PCB drawing you have up here.
Midwayfair posted what I believe is the most updated version of the schematic it was said. However,
when I look at it and compare the values on that schematic to the PCB drawing that is most updated,
some values vary. For example, R7 on the schematic is listed as 6.8k where as on the PCB it is 1M.
Is the schematic correct for layout and pathing but not values is that it?
Thanks for the help, I cant wait to start up on this project!
@rev:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/lightwah%20layout.pdf
and welcome!.. ;)
I have this working as a lightwah, but when I tried the "volume-only" mod, I just got silence out, always.
Anyone confirm that this mod works ?
Can someone cast a set of eyeballs please, 1590B sized, board mounted pots and switch.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/69845236/lightwah-brd.png)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/69845236/lightwah-sch.png)
Layout works, but needs some refinement for home etching. Can't mount the switch on the underside and still solder it :) *facepalm*
why? switch lugs not long enough?
looks like a cool layout though....nice. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 04, 2013, 04:30:54 AM
why? switch lugs not long enough?
looks like a cool layout though....nice. 8)
Got a proper PCB mount switch today, now it works nicely :)
I'll post a BRD file if anyone wants ?
^ cool. glad you got it sorted....
look forward to seeing your build too... 8)
having trouble with the LFO. Apparently the lfo section is very choosy about the LEDs. I tried a 5mm yellow, yet I don't know if it is superbright. the thing is that at full darkness in the room I can actually see the yellow led and the external led flashin with the lfo, yet it's waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too dim. Any suggestions?
So I googled superbright yellow led, and they are transparent. that means my yellow led is a common yellow led. In case I can't get a superbright yellow, what could my other options be, mr. "maestre of pedals" dead astronaut? I'm dying here to get the effect working and playing it through my Tele!!!!
whats the spec of the ldr?..should be 1M DARK..............beep..............................beep.........................................................
check the resistor value to the leds?.........shouldn't be dim with a standard yellow led.................beep...................................beep.....................................................
try other bright............were break....ing up...................beep..............led.....over.. ;D
Mr. deadastronaut, you have created yourself one weird and great circuit here. I got the footwah section working perfectly. Now...the LFO section works as well. I put a Red LED instead of the superbright yellow, which doesn't light up at all, yet with that red led the external LFO LED (I used a 3mm superbright white) flashes like a madman, so I sandwiched that white LED between the (non functional yet it serves it purpose in this case haha) red led and the LDR and the LFO section works just fine but is noisy. So here goes the question, if I don't get superbright yellows, what other superbright LEDs could I use and what resistor value should I use for that LED? Looking at the schem and the pcb I understand that the 100ohm resistor is for the yellow LED, am I right so far? The other thing is that I'm quite a noob with multimeters and voltages. Am I right also in saying that the resistor for the superbright blue (which I did get) is 4.7k? The LDRs I'm using are the ones that are about the size of the 5mm LEDs. They're not the little ones and not the really big ones. thanks in advance for any help you could give.
Hey all,
I built the Lightwah circuit yesterday and fired it up this morning but I'm having a funny issue with it.
The LFO 'auto' section works perfectly but when I switch to the LDR 'manual' mode I have a problem. I get a nice loud signal but moving my hand towards the LDR has no effect. Rotating the sense knob affects the tone and LEDs but the external LDR just doesn't do anything. Considering that this is the main selling point (well to me anyway) I'm pretty miffed. I'm sure it's just a silly error on my part but I just can't work out out. I've checked my soldering and connections but everything looks fine.
I thought I may have a dodgy LDR so swapped it out for a fresh one but it didn't make any difference. Does anyone have any ideas? I'll post some photos as soon as I am able.
Thanks in advance!
hmmm...
are your ldrs measuring 1M when dark...
and a few 'k' when lit..
Hey Rob
I'll reply on here from now on rather than PM'ing you so that anyone else having this issue will benefit from any answers.
Yep LDR's are all the right value, which I guess is proven by the fact the auto wah side of the pedal works.
As mentioned in your PM to me I checked to see if I'd accidentally bridged the external LDR's solder pads but they look fine to me. Here are some photos that might shed some light (no pun intended) on the issue.
Thanks again.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img202/2996/lightwahsoldering.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img694/6537/lightwahreverse.jpg)
and from the other side
(http://imageshack.us/a/img9/5533/lightwahfront.jpg)
hi,
going by my eyes, that looks like a 470r resistor, not a 4.7k
on the bottom left just above Q2...
swap it out for a 4.7k and then try it.. ;)
Looks like a 4-band resistor. Yellow-Purple-Red-Brown = 4.7K (1%)
Funny... didn't know thay made 1% resistors in 4 band ???
hmmmm must be my bad eyesight then.. :)
Govmnt_Lacky is right, it's a 4.7K.
Darn, I got excited then!
Hey guys,
Built this pedal and it's great. However, small problem occurs:
The effect controlled by the rate/speed knob is too fast, even when the pot is fully rotated. (the led blinks every 0.5-0.7 sec at slowest speed).
checked the pot value and the resistors values.
Any thought?
Quote from: shay1510 on April 23, 2013, 01:46:14 PM
Hey guys,
Built this pedal and it's great. However, small problem occurs:
The effect controlled by the rate/speed knob is too fast, even when the pot is fully rotated. (the led blinks every 0.5-0.7 sec at slowest speed).
checked the pot value and the resistors values.
Any thought?
You want it to oscillate slower?
C8, that 10uF cap at pin 5 of the LFO, is the timer cap. 22uF will make the sweep a couple seconds. Apparently if you go to 47uF, it'll be a 15 second sweep (http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=6055.msg77086#msg77086). How slow do you want? :)
Be sure to use a reverse log for the speed pot if you do this.
apparently I've used a 1uF cap.
Midwayfair, thanks for the answer, I'll try some different values till I get it right.
Hi. Excuse for my English, I write through the translator. Tell, whether it is possible to connect LightWah and Optochopto as it was represented by me? I increased the entrance condenser that it was possible to use a bass guitar. I thought to make switch to change entrance capacity
(http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/6640/5az.JPG)
Thanks Rob for another wicked circuit.
Just put together my first lightwah and everything appears to be functioning but I'd like a little clarification on a couple of operational points just to be sure.
Is it intended that the foot LDR works off ambient light, Is there meant to be a small footwah effect when in LFO mode and is it normal for there to be a slight distortion of the lower frequencies in both modes?
My build is not currently boxed
Thanks
Quote from: stallik on November 09, 2013, 02:35:02 PM
Thanks Rob for another wicked circuit.
Just put together my first lightwah and everything appears to be functioning but I'd like a little clarification on a couple of operational points just to be sure.
Is it intended that the foot LDR works off ambient light, Is there meant to be a small footwah effect when in LFO mode and is it normal for there to be a slight distortion of the lower frequencies in both modes?
My build is not currently boxed
Thanks
in lfo mode it should be just lfo.. ( are your led/ldr's in shrink tube?...isolated )
the foot ldr works off the ambient light yes, adjust the sense to it....more light the better though...(i toyed with the idea of having another dc socket with a plug in led on a bendy wire to hang over it..)
never noticed distortion...hmmmm..
Thanks Rob, yes they're shrink tubed but I used blue LEDs as the yellows I got in were flashers! Must have a short or something leaking something into the LFO section. Mind you, it's a neat effect - changing the overall tone as the LFO works. Probably what's giving me the distortion too.
Let you know
Ho hum. Just taken a good look over my board looking for shorts etc. Only thing I found was a little wisp of fibre. Maybe cotton or something like that. Brushed it off and found nothing else. Yet the distortion is gone and there's no bleed over to the LFO anymore. Probably means I've got a weak connection somewhere but for now, I'm just enjoying another great pedal.
Thanks again
Boxed up. Used a DDT switch for foot wah/LFO to switch one of the panel LEDs off
(http://www.stallibrass.com/images/kas/lightwah1.jpg)
And the guts. Will try to tidy it up when I've settled on the led switching
(http://www.stallibrass.com/images/kas/lightwah2.jpg)
^ looks great kevin, ...
love the spacey themes you do.. 8)
Thanks Rob, got a GU10 spotlight shining down on my board. Casts a sharp shadow of my foot, more blurred from hand level. Great fun strumming in the beam of light and getting an auto wah thing going. Drumming my fingers in the air gives a really rapid wah and I can get all kinds of effects going using fingers, hands and feet.
I must look bl**dy stupid!
ha ha, yeah...but it works .. 8)
the plug in led idea isn't such a bad idea too really, will act as board lighting too.. 8)
i have one of those book reading led lights and thats pretty good.