For 1590B and 1590BB. Cool light plates that fit in between your current bottom plate and the top. Now you can light up your boxes easily!
In the store. (http://diystompboxes.com/zencart/)
Thanks to TTG!
ok, i don't understand how it works... ???
I think it's just a transparent frosted lid that fits a standard enclosure size, so you can pack it with LEDs and 4017s and have a damned RAVE!
ooooooooohhh... i was confused by Aron's description, it says it fits between the box and the cover or something.
I think you use it like this one --> http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66840.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66840.0)
Quote from: oskar on September 05, 2011, 06:34:55 PM
I think you use it like this one --> http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66840.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66840.0)
Exactly,
BUT...You no longer have to file the alignment ridge down, that's what the recessed track is for.
Quote from: Earthscum on September 05, 2011, 06:59:39 PM
Quote from: oskar on September 05, 2011, 06:34:55 PM
I think you use it like this one --> http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66840.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=66840.0)
Exactly, BUT...
You no longer have to file the alignment ridge down, that's what the recessed track is for.
Bingo! The hard work is done. You just have to drill the screw holes and what you need to mount the LED(s). No need to modify the case.
Andrew
oh ok i get it now. :icon_redface:
great idea!...but are they for hammond 1590b's.....or eddystone 1590b's...?
the hammonds have more rounded corners than the squared eddystone..(eddystone is what we have in the uk...)
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayProduct.jsp?sku=3061590&CMP=KNC-GUK-FUK-GEN-SKU-EMC&s_kwcid=TC|13123|1590b||S|p|8220784269
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/3439524/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-0411-_-google-_-3_MRO_MPN-_-hammond%201590b_Broad&gclid=COLTtrWDiKsCFdRA4QodmUZeNQ
I tried to the make the plates as universal for their size as possible.
The 1590B version fits the Hammond 1590B (Last three generations), the ZVex variant, and the New Sensor Corp. version.
The 1590BB version fits the Hammond 1590BB and the New Sensor Corp. version. The Eddystone case was just too far out of spec to be able to include with the design so it will not fit the Eddystone case or atleast the older originals I have. I don't know about the modern version which maybe closer to the Hammond version.
Andrew
:'(
ok thanks....
Wow, cool to see my idea of a couple years back turn into an actual store product. ( I was already flattered when Wampler had them as a feature on his pedals for a while) By the way, you can use regular plexi and a clothes iron too to get the recessed slot. Just put the enclosure on the plexi, and then put the cothes iron on the enclosure and wait for it to be hot enough to be pressed into the plexi.
This lasercut/engraved solution is better though!
Light plates to the masses!
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 06, 2011, 04:30:37 AM
:'(
ok thanks....
Just buy proper Hammonds not the Eddystone ones, Rapid sell 'em as do RS.
^ yep, they advertise them as hammonds, but you get eddystone!... :P
i went to an rs trade counter and asked for a hammond........with hammond order number as advertised in their catalogue........guy comes out with eddystone!... :icon_rolleyes:
i think they don't actually see the difference...its just a box to them....... :)
I have always been interested in this but I always had one hang up....
How to properly mount the LEDs ???
I have read that you need to "sand" them to get the light to shine in all directions.
Can someone kindly explain or point to a link on how to accomplish this? The sanding and proper mounting of the LED(s) in the plexi plate......
Just drill a 5 mm hole in the center of the plate.
Take a water clear 5 mm led sand the sides so it becomes opaque. Then stick it in the hole. That's it. No glue needed.
I believe someone here did a tutorial on light plates. Must have been back in 2008/2009
Here are the original images I posted:
(http://www.friedair.com/images/glow1.jpg)
(http://www.friedair.com/images/glow2.jpg)
(http://www.friedair.com/images/glow3.jpg)
(http://www.friedair.com/images/glow4.jpg)
(http://www.friedair.com/images/glow5.jpg)
Quote from: ~arph on September 06, 2011, 07:57:30 AM
Just drill a 5 mm hole in the center of the plate.
Take a water clear 5 mm led sand the sides so it becomes opaque. Then stick it in the hole. That's it. No glue needed.
I believe someone here did a tutorial on light plates. Must have been back in 2008/2009
no no sand the top till its almost flat so the light can only come out the sides
^ yep that's what i did..
just a thought, if the plastic is going over the lip, how does the light come out?...if the lip is in the way?.. ???
The plexi acts like a fiber optic path. The light bounces off the smooth surfaces of the top and bottom but is emitted from the rough surfaces on the sides. Basically, the light *should* bounce around enough that the channel doesn't make an impact.
Quote from: arawn on September 06, 2011, 08:14:53 AM
no no sand the top till its almost flat so the light can only come out the sides
Quote from: defaced on September 06, 2011, 09:22:27 AM
The plexi acts like a fiber optic path. The light bounces off the smooth surfaces of the top and bottom but is emitted from the rough surfaces on the sides. Basically, the light *should* bounce around enough that the channel doesn't make an impact.
OK.... so which one of these is right? Should the top be sanded/roughed up and the sides left smooth -OR- should the sides be sanded/roughed up and the top be smooth?
Quote from: arawn on September 06, 2011, 08:14:53 AM
Quote from: ~arph on September 06, 2011, 07:57:30 AM
Just drill a 5 mm hole in the center of the plate.
Take a water clear 5 mm led sand the sides so it becomes opaque. Then stick it in the hole. That's it. No glue needed.
I believe someone here did a tutorial on light plates. Must have been back in 2008/2009
no no sand the top till its almost flat so the light can only come out the sides
Good point, but as you can see in my photo's the light also comes out if you don't do that ;D
Sand the sides.
an LED is also a bit of plexi, the light bounces around in it. The light will exit there where the angle of impact on the edge of the path is large enough. If you sand the sides the edge is rough so more light will exit at the sides. If you don't, the light will bounce off and exit at the front (that is what a LED is designed for). We want light to exit at the sides as the sides are what's feeding the light into the plexi plate. You will also notice that once the LED is in the plate, mostly the sides of the plexi plate light up not the whole surface.
If you sand the whole surface of the plexi, the whole thing lights up and less light exits from the sides.
Those are so 2010 ::)
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 06, 2011, 07:33:09 AM
^ yep, they advertise them as hammonds, but you get eddystone!... :P
Weird, I know we've discussed this before, but I've not had the same problem with Rapid or RS. Rapid even do the Hammond "Stompbox" pre painted ones now, got a nice orange one off them the other day.
Anyways I'm going to order one of these so I'll see if there's anyway it will fit an Eddystone box.
Hammond owns Eddystone now so Hammond keeps where the brands are sold seperate. You can't buy Eddystone in NA just as you can't buy Hammonds where there are Eddystones. That being said some cases sold by Hammond still have the Eddystone mark on the inside so maybe some of the Eddystones are just Hammonds sold under the Eddystone name.
The Eddystone cases I have are from many years ago before Hammond bought Eddystone. Maybe the BBs sold under the Eddystone name are actually Hammond BBs with a few changes. Really the case would need to be measured to be sure.
As for the light dispersal issue the plates while polished do have some waviness which help refract light. If one wants they can't get a matte frosted look just by hitting the plate edges with some fine grit sandpaper.
Andrew
Do you know if these fit 4site 1590b and 1590bb?
Quote from: therecordingart on September 08, 2011, 11:14:31 AM
Do you know if these fit 4site 1590b and 1590bb?
I didn't have any to measure and test with so I can't be sure. Check them against one of the other known good enclosures. It not just the case size but the size and shape of the inner lip that matters.
Andrew
Quote from: The Tone God on September 08, 2011, 03:27:19 AM
Maybe the BBs sold under the Eddystone name are actually Hammond BBs with a few changes. Really the case would need to be measured to be sure.
Over here we can buy 1590 series boxes and the Eddystone series http://www.hammondmfg.com/eddydwg.htm (http://www.hammondmfg.com/eddydwg.htm), I think the problem Rob has had is people wrongly selling the cheaper Eddystone ones as 1590s.
I just took a quick look at the CAD drawing for the Eddystone 29830PSLA (1590BB equivalent) and the specs aren't too far off. 0.5mm on the length and 1mm on the width different on outer dimensions same differences on the inner. The lid lip height is the same. The only spec I don't have is the lip sizing.
So it MAY work with the new Eddystone 29830PSLA, just not the older ones. The question is if the lip grove in the plate matches the Eddystone's lid lip. There is some slack in the lip design in the light plates so there is a chance.
Andrew
I just compared an Eddystone 29830PSLA with a 1590BB and the straight parts of the lid lips match up, the difference is in the corners. The curved section by the screw holes is closer to the holes and a tighter radius on the Eddystone, it's only about a mil or so different at most so hopefully it will fit. If not all you'd have to do is grind off the curved bits of the lip.
I'll report back when mine arrives.
Quote from: slacker on September 09, 2011, 12:08:46 PM
I just compared an Eddystone 29830PSLA with a 1590BB and the straight parts of the lid lips match up, the difference is in the corners. The curved section by the screw holes is closer to the holes and a tighter radius on the Eddystone, it's only about a mil or so different at most so hopefully it will fit. If not all you'd have to do is grind off the curved bits of the lip.
I'll report back when mine arrives.
There is some extra space around the corners for the cast variations in the lip so that might make up for it. The radius on the outer corners is smaller on the Eddystones so it won't match up perfectly but it will still functionally work.
Fingers crossed.
Andrew
Any chance you will be getting the 15900BB sized plates back in stock? I'd love to play with these in a couple projects im working on but theres no way I could cram this board in a smaller case.
same question. Aron ?
OK I will check on it.
Aron
Thanks sir.
Any news ?
B and BB sizes are in