I posted this initially in this thread: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93421.0
Rick suggested I start a dedicated thread for posterity ;).
DIY reverbs are pretty rare, and small-sized ones using readily available parts are rarer still! Most use the Belton brick, which contains three PT2399s. I wanted to see how good (or how lame) reverb could sound using only two PT2399s, and I wanted to make it fit in a 1550B (equivalent).
It has tails switching (naturally) and there's a trim pot to adjust the delay of the second PT, which produces some (not very useful) sounds ranging from bathroom to hall. I have it set on 17.5k, where it will probably stay. There is a bass-cut switch that filters out the bass before it reaches the delay lines, for a less invasive sound.
Sound clip: Starts with max reverb and the bass-cut off. Then I reduce the reverb and put the bass cut on for the second half of the clip, and increase the reverb again. I'm very pleased with the sound- it's a lot better than I was expected for just two delay lines and no modulation. You wouldn't use it for studio vocals or anything obviously, but for 'ordinary' guitar I think it was well worth it!
w w w.freewebs.com/valvewizard2/Equinox.mp3
(remove the spaces from www)
The schematic looks a bit busy because its all jammed onto one page, but operation is really quite simple. Here's a sketch to show how it works. The signal is filtered and then passed to two delay lines in parallel. The outputs are mixed, filtered, and fed back to the start. The longer delay line gets a bit of extra filtering to mimic the loss of treble you get with longer reflections/more air time. Then the wet is mixed with the dry in the usual way.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/ReverbTopology.jpg)
Full schematic and PCB layout etc. are here:
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/
The pedal etching didn't come out so good. I will be redoing this eventually...
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/CIMG6709.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/CIMG6711.jpg)
Thanks also to Rick for sending me an enclosure!
nice :D any chance to hear this beautiful circuit?
merlin provided a link. It just doesn't show up because he inserted spaces in the URL.
w w w.freewebs.com/valvewizard2/Equinox.mp3
Easier way to the soundclip: http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard2/Equinox.mp3
What a great little circuit! Viva DIY!
Edit! Will someone please put me out of my misery and tell me which Zeppelin song that is?
hi rick - that link just takes me to this very thread - is just me? and good work merlin! (i'd heard the clip on t'other thread)
Quote from: artifus on September 20, 2011, 12:44:56 PM
hi rick - that link just takes me to this very thread - is just me? and good work merlin! (i'd heard the clip on t'other thread)
It works fine for me. I keep telling Merlin to use dropbox (hint hint). Name the Zep song please.....
hmmm... no go here, i'm trapped in a mobius loop! could be chrome. removed the spaces and had a listen and it's bugging me too! on the tip of my tongue - i can almost here a vocal coming in singing 'oh, baby, baby, baby...' but that doesn't really narrow it down much!
Quote from: artifus on September 20, 2011, 12:44:56 PM
hi rick - that link just takes me to this very thread - is just me?
try copying and pasting the link into a new browser tab or window, that works for me.
Sounds great.
ta slacker - got there in the end the long way round. a direct click in chrome returns to this thread but highlighting the link and right clicking 'go to..' gets me there. most odd.
"Baby I'm Gonna Leave You " off the first album .
Love the sound of this pedal - might just have to build it !
Quote from: nick d on September 20, 2011, 01:04:30 PM
"Baby I'm Gonna Leave You " off the first album .
Thanks! Playing it right now.......
The Rebote 2.5 already sounds kinda reverbish with short delay time and lots of repeats, i think i bookmark this thread.
Good God, I actually have a backlog of about five Merlin effects I have to build. I better get my house finished soon or at this rate I'll never catch up.
Sounds great, again, thanks Merlin.
That sounds really nice for such a small parts count. Would make an excellent addition to a small DIY amp.
well, no soundclip for me. Anyways, I spotted something (may have been mentioned already), ultra-thin trace connecting C24's ground leg.
Quote from: Earthscum on September 21, 2011, 12:26:14 AM
well, no soundclip for me.
Just put the URL into your browser and remove the spaces from WWW...
Quote
Anyways, I spotted something (may have been mentioned already), ultra-thin trace connecting C24's ground leg.
Fixed.
I'm curious about the manner in which you have the ins and outs of the two 2399s connected. Is there some of the feedback of the one going into the other?
Quote from: Mark Hammer on September 21, 2011, 09:38:36 AM
I'm curious about the manner in which you have the ins and outs of the two 2399s connected. Is there some of the feedback of the one going into the other?
Not sure what you mean? It is as described in the sketch schem. The first on-board opamp on the first PT is arranged as a low-pass filter as per the data sheet, and overall feedback is also injected here. The output from this opamp is also tapped off and send to the second PT via R12. The second on-board opamp is not used.
The second PT includes the output low-pass filter, also as per the data sheet. The delayed output from the first PT is also mixed in here via R14. There's only one feedback resistor, R19.
Quote from: merlinb on September 21, 2011, 04:55:06 AM
Just put the URL into your browser and remove the spaces from WWW...
tried that. Firefox and opera are both returning me here or to searches that link right back here. Even pasted direct "go here"... Short of doing some kind of hack, I don't think it's working, and redirects really tick me off, no offense meant to you at all. Just, I guess, writing code and such in the past has made me nitpicky about universal functionality.
@merlin: dropbox ;)
You can just paste it in the address bar without the www. part (just start with freewebs.com). It will redirect to the appropriate address. Works fine for me in Chrome and Firefox
With Merlin's permission and assistance, I made a PDF with all the files related to the Equinox. It has high-resolution images of the schematic, layout, and PCB transfer. The PCB transfer image is actual size. There's also a bill of materials included. The PDF is hosted here in the DIYStompboxes gallery - so it shouldn't disappear.
Here's the download link: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=46248&g2_GALLERYSID=74c3a65f5fc52fdecfa64fec06407a15 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=46248&g2_GALLERYSID=74c3a65f5fc52fdecfa64fec06407a15)
this is a reverb that i was looking for :D opps found! :D
Thanks so much
Thanks for the rehost Walt, cool circuit Merlin.
Thanks for sharing! :icon_biggrin:
I etched and drilled two boards last night, and am looking forward to stuffing them and firing them up. We have a government-wide charity drive for the United Way every year at this time, and in years past I've contributed a pedal to the fundraising auction. This year's contribution will be an Equinox, with whatever additional bells and whistles I can stuff into a 125-C.
Thanks. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: waltk on September 21, 2011, 07:16:05 PM
With Merlin's permission and assistance, I made a PDF with all the files related to the Equinox. It has high-resolution images of the schematic, layout, and PCB transfer. The PCB transfer image is actual size. There's also a bill of materials included. The PDF is hosted here in the DIYStompboxes gallery - so it shouldn't disappear.
Here's the download link: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=46248&g2_GALLERYSID=74c3a65f5fc52fdecfa64fec06407a15 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=46248&g2_GALLERYSID=74c3a65f5fc52fdecfa64fec06407a15)
Great, I was waiting for that. For this kind of reverb, AND for the pdf. ;) Since I have some pt's, I'll build this guy soon, and see for myself what is it capable off.
But to be honest - vectorized pcb in the pdf would be much better (loseless). ;) Isn't the tracing software capable of exporting the board directly to the pdf?
Quote from: meffcio on September 22, 2011, 04:55:24 PM
Isn't the tracing software capable of exporting the board directly to the pdf?
Good question. I'll have to double check that...
Quick question: What's the point of transistor Q1? Am I right in thinking the output from the first opamp feeds into the input of the first PT? I just don't understand Q1.
Cheers!
D
Quote from: dam28 on September 27, 2011, 08:57:26 AM
Quick question: What's the point of transistor Q1? Am I right in thinking the output from the first opamp feeds into the input of the first PT? I just don't understand Q1.
Q1 in an analog switch. When the base is pulled low the transistor switches off, and no signal is passed to the delay line. This is how bypass with tails is achieved. You could also use a FET in this position, if the base resistor is replaced with a diode, which might look more familiar to you?
Interesting. So it's simply the bypass on the circuit? I could just feed the output of the op-amp into the input of the PT?
Quote from: dam28 on September 27, 2011, 09:20:58 AM
Interesting. So it's simply the bypass on the circuit? I could just feed the output of the op-amp into the input of the PT?
Yes you could replace Q1 with a direct link, if you are using true bypass or something.
Hi, thanks for posting this, I have 5 pt2399s and been looking for a reverb, perfect!
Minro query (bit of a noob, sorry), would this require any modification for use as line level (synths etc)?
Cheers,
Ben
If anyone is planning on etching a board...etch an extra and I'll buy it off of you.
Cheers for the advice Merlin!
Quote from: Paradigm X on September 27, 2011, 12:29:28 PM
Minro query (bit of a noob, sorry), would this require any modification for use as line level (synths etc)?
The delay line will handle 2Vp-p signals as it is. If you want it to handle larger signals then you would need to reduce R11 and increase R19 proportionately.
Quote from: merlinb on September 27, 2011, 03:08:52 PM
Quote from: Paradigm X on September 27, 2011, 12:29:28 PM
Minro query (bit of a noob, sorry), would this require any modification for use as line level (synths etc)?
The delay line will handle 2Vp-p signals as it is. If you want it to handle larger signals then you would need to reduce R11 and increase R19 proportionately.
Thank-you. :)
If anyone in the UK (or elsewhere TBH) is making a PCB and can possibly make an additional one I'd be happy to compensate for materials, time and postage.
Many thanks!
Ben
Baaaaaabyyyyy... Baby, baby, I am gonna leave yo-ou... I ain't joking, woman--I've got to ramble.
Awesome song from an awesome band. I can't recall any band having ever recorded such a perfect first album (ok, it's not the first since they were technically "The New Yardbirds", but anyways...).
Need. To. Build. One. Much more practical than hauling that AC-fed bitch Microverb II around.
Another quick question. R19 and C13 make up the feedback. When I don't connect these I just get two delays, as expected, when I connect the feedback though the circuit goes into crazy oscillation. This is expected also I guess but wonder if you know how to over come this? Get a the reverb to fade out gradually and not go mental!
Good build though. Really enjoying the design.
D
Quote from: dam28 on October 02, 2011, 08:11:33 AM
Another quick question. R19 and C13 make up the feedback. When I don't connect these I just get two delays, as expected, when I connect the feedback though the circuit goes into crazy oscillation. This is expected also I guess but wonder if you know how to over come this? Get a the reverb to fade out gradually and not go mental!
It shouldn't oscillate... sure you haven't made a mistake somewhere? Did you change R11 maybe?
Anyway, quick answer is increase R19 until it stops oscillating.
I'll give this a go later. It sounds quite cool but its a bit hard to control! Ill check my layout and keep you updated. Thanks again.
D
I built this baby over the weekend, but sadly it did not work. I got signal through, but it was unaffected, sounded good... but no reverb.
I DID make what is probably a game stopping part substitution- I had no NP 10uF caps, so I dropped in regular electros.
Thoughts?
Quote from: audioguy on October 17, 2011, 06:36:39 AM
I built this baby over the weekend, but sadly it did not work. I got signal through, but it was unaffected, sounded good... but no reverb.
I DID make what is probably a game stopping part substitution- I had no NP 10uF caps, so I dropped in regular electros.
Thoughts?
You might made a mistake with the orientation of the 10uF caps, you should rotate C14 or C4 or C32 (on the schem) or more 10uf caps around the delay ICs.
I'll check those when I get home from work this afternoon. Thanks for the tip.
10uF NON-polarized :o
Anyone have a link for where to pick those up? A search on the interwebs only led me to some larger than desired caps.
EDIT: I guess Steve sells them over at smallbear but, does anyone know if they are a decent size for the circuit?
wheres the vero at? ;D
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 17, 2011, 07:59:47 AM
10uF NON-polarized :o
Anyone have a link for where to pick those up? A search on the interwebs only led me to some larger than desired caps.
EDIT: I guess Steve sells them over at smallbear but, does anyone know if they are a decent size for the circuit?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think non-polarized caps are required for this circuit. Polarized are probably preferred (?).
The BOM calls NP specifically for a couple of the 10uf caps.
Quote from: audioguy on October 17, 2011, 09:58:23 AM
The BOM calls NP specifically for a couple of the 10uf caps.
Ah, OK. C10 and C32 are listed as NP, but on the schematic, their symbol is still the polarized variety. Also, the BOM notes indicate "1uF or greater", so maybe the 10uF isn't that important?
Two polarised caps back to back = one NP cap. Negative to negative IIR. And the value will be halved.
So 2 4.7s?
I just swapped the 10uf out and replaced them with 1 uf NP. No change.
While examining the board, I noticed my 78L05 was really warm. going to poke around there for a while.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 17, 2011, 07:59:47 AM
10uF NON-polarized :o
Anyone have a link for where to pick those up?
If you check the BOM you'll see that any value from 1uF or greater is fine. That should be easy to get in a non-polar format.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93868.msg808705#msg808705
So after a few weeks working on other things, I have returned to this build. It all sounds and works however, the delayed sound is "fuzzy" the original is not but the repeats sound really noisy. Any ideas why this is?
D
Quote from: dam28 on October 26, 2011, 04:27:23 PM
So after a few weeks working on other things, I have returned to this build. It all sounds and works however, the delayed sound is "fuzzy" the original is not but the repeats sound really noisy. Any ideas why this is?
Are you building this on PCB or something else? Could be any number of things...
I did a PCB layout to hone my skills at it. It was coming out clean with a little bit of a hiss, now it's really hissy. What are the possible problems?
D
Quote from: dam28 on October 26, 2011, 05:48:52 PM
What are the possible problems?
Bad etch- broken traces or linked traces, solder bridges, etc. Wrong components, wrong orientation... Delay resistors/trimpot correct value? Capacitors in the alias filters wrong value? These could cause hissing...
You're gonna have to post some photos if you want something closer to a diagnosis. :icon_wink:
Hi dam28! here's the link regarding my close encounter :icon_mrgreen::http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93421.20
Hoping to find you some ease.... I think. Thanks Merlin! Still ROCKS! I mean you rock! :icon_twisted:
as soon as I clicked "reply" I thought, "that is a rather stupid question!". I guess I opened a can of worms of what could be wrong :). I'm going to check it all tonight. I'll try and upload some photos later when I have time. My etching is fine because I have had it working. I must have changed something during the "fiddling" stage and broke it. Anyway, thank you for the help Merlin and sugonidamaso. I will investigate once I am back from work!
D
Quote from: merlinb on September 27, 2011, 09:04:06 AM
Quote from: dam28 on September 27, 2011, 08:57:26 AM
Quick question: What's the point of transistor Q1? Am I right in thinking the output from the first opamp feeds into the input of the first PT? I just don't understand Q1.
Q1 in an analog switch. When the base is pulled low the transistor switches off, and no signal is passed to the delay line. This is how bypass with tails is achieved. You could also use a FET in this position, if the base resistor is replaced with a diode, which might look more familiar to you?
OK what I'm trying to do is use a togle switch to have ether a true bypass or have a tail.
Will try to draw something up tonight at home. Shouldn't be that hard?
Any ideas?
Quote from: alparent on November 03, 2011, 02:47:06 PM
OK what I'm trying to do is use a togle switch to have ether a true bypass or have a tail.
Will try to draw something up tonight at home. Shouldn't be that hard?
Any ideas?
Obvious method:
The 3PDT footswitch (green) handles the true bypass AND also controls the tails+LED on the PCB. The DPDT toggle switch (red) simple directs the bypass signal either through the circuit or through the true bypass.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/TrueTails.jpg)
Your not only smart. You are also helpfull.
What a guy!
Thanks for that marlinb. ;D
And you even took the time to draw it!
This forum is just great!!!
I'm having a little trouble with my Equinox, and looking for ideas/suggestions.
Here are some details:
Built on Merlin's PCB layout.
Not mounted in a box yet.
First built almost completely stock (subbed a 1n5817 for the 1n4001).
Checked all the obvious things - power, shorts, bridges, etc.
Jumpered the transistor.
Plugged in a fixed 15K resistor in place of the trim pot.
Replaced c26 and c28 with 47uF tantalum caps.
Here are the symptoms:
When powered up it gets straight guitar signal all the way through but no delay/reverb.
It draws ~260 ma and the voltage regulator gets warm.
I have it hooked up to an adjustable power supply, and I can make it work by turning on the power supply at low voltage, and then turning it up to 9V.
When I do this, it works fine (will all the expected delay) and only draws ~42ma. This makes me think that the PT2399(s) are latching up on startup. If I hadn't tried the "slow start" trick, I might still be thinking there was some other problem.
Any ideas? I'm willing to measure things, and replace parts if necessary.
OK just finished this one also.
I do get reverb.
The regulator is running hot.....not to much (normal I guess?..I used a 75L05)
But the 2 PTs or also running warm (is that normal?) The one near the regulator is the hottest. Nothing that will burn my finger.....but warm?
What about that 20k trim? I've used a 25k pot to bring it off-board....but I don't notice any changes from one end to the other?
Thanks for the help.
Quote from: merlinb on November 04, 2011, 05:44:54 AM
Quote from: alparent on November 03, 2011, 02:47:06 PM
OK what I'm trying to do is use a togle switch to have ether a true bypass or have a tail.
Will try to draw something up tonight at home. Shouldn't be that hard?
Any ideas?
Obvious method:
The 3PDT footswitch (green) handles the true bypass AND also controls the tails+LED on the PCB. The DPDT toggle switch (red) simple directs the bypass signal either through the circuit or through the true bypass.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/TrueTails.jpg)
Can`t see no colours there, it looks like all black and white to me. Is it the browser, the schematic draw, or my eyes?
You don't see the red middle box?
Quote from: waltk on November 04, 2011, 04:03:49 PM
I'm having a little trouble with my Equinox, and looking for ideas/suggestions.
Can you double check that R26 is 4.7k and not 470R?
Also, you haven't used these PTs for any other previous projects have you? If they latch up once, they will do it again and again, even when the delay resistance is increased to a 'safe' value.
Quote from: alparent on November 05, 2011, 11:28:44 AM
OK just finished this one also.
I do get reverb.
The regulator is running hot.....not to much (normal I guess?..I used a 75L05)
But the 2 PTs or also running warm (is that normal?) The one near the regulator is the hottest. Nothing that will burn my finger.....but warm?
What about that 20k trim? I've used a 25k pot to bring it off-board....but I don't notice any changes from one end to the other?
Thanks for the help.
I've also measured the output of the regulator...I get 4.8v is that good? Just asking 'cause on my Arduino projects the output is always 5v on the dot.
Quote from: alparent on November 05, 2011, 03:29:27 PM
I've also measured the output of the regulator...I get 4.8v is that good? Just asking 'cause on my Arduino projects the output is always 5v on the dot.
It shouldn't be that low normally, but it will do this when the PTs latch up and the regulator goes into shut down.
QuoteCan you double check that R26 is 4.7k and not 470R?
Also, you haven't used these PTs for any other previous projects have you? If they latch up once, they will do it again and again, even when the delay resistance is increased to a 'safe' value.
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check this when I get back home on Friday. These were new unused PTs. I've used other PTs from this batch in other projects and haven't had an issue before, but I've seen a lot of other posts about how touchy they are. I guess it's my turn to have problems with them.
Hi
Built this, I can get bypass and effected, the LED works, howevever, I only get a weak sounding delay when effected.
I have changed the PT2399's out for another pair.
The regulator is doing its job.
If you adjust the trimpot, it changes the delay time up til about half way in its travel ,then you dont seem to get any effect on the signal (sounds like bypass)
Any ideas or anyone suffered this before?
Quote from: LaceSensor on November 06, 2011, 10:23:40 AM
Built this, I can get bypass and effected, the LED works, howevever, I only get a weak sounding delay when effected.
Best guess, an incorrect resistor value somewhere.
Photos, people!
my gf has taken my camera on holiday.
Ill check resistor values.
thanks for the tip
one thing I didnt have a small enough toggle, so I havent wired anything there yet. Problem?
Quote from: LaceSensor on November 06, 2011, 12:48:39 PM
one thing I didnt have a small enough toggle, so I havent wired anything there yet. Problem?
No, it should work fine without the switch.
Quote from: merlinb on November 05, 2011, 04:52:46 PM
Quote from: alparent on November 05, 2011, 03:29:27 PM
I've also measured the output of the regulator...I get 4.8v is that good? Just asking 'cause on my Arduino projects the output is always 5v on the dot.
It shouldn't be that low normally, but it will do this when the PTs latch up and the regulator goes into shut down.
I swapped for 2 other PTs but nothing changed. The PT neer the regutaltor is running hot and only 4.8v
Will have to wolk the trace tonight to find if anything is sucking power?
Any tips on where to start looking? I've also checked all caps orientation. I did use a Tant. 10uf.... and I used 1uf NP caps.
Quote from: alparent on November 07, 2011, 07:39:26 AM
Will have to wolk the trace tonight to find if anything is sucking power?
Any tips on where to start looking? I've also checked all caps orientation. I did use a Tant. 10uf.... and I used 1uf NP caps.
The main (only?) reason why a PT will latch up is if the delay resistor is too small- check for wrong value R25/26, and for solder bridges/shorts around the delay pins (pin 6).
Also, to anyone reading this, be aware some if you sub a different transistor you may have to check the pinout, as some BJTs have different configurations from the BC337 I used. I mention this because if you get it wrong it could cause the dry sound to work, but not the wet sound, which a couple of people have mentioned.
Quote from: merlinb on November 07, 2011, 11:47:07 AM
The main (only?) reason why a PT will latch up is if the delay resistor is too small.
WRONG! :icon_wink:
If you short pin 1 and 5 you get the same results!
That was my problem a short between pin5 and the trace of pin1.
Thanks for all the help!
One last question...I swapped the 20k trim for a 25k pot so I could play with it from the front panel.
The 10k pot is the "REVERB" what would you call the 20k pot? Stupid question I know :icon_redface:
Quote from: alparent on November 07, 2011, 07:56:01 PM
One last question...I swapped the 20k trim for a 25k pot so I could play with it from the front panel.
The 10k pot is the "REVERB" what would you call the 20k pot? Stupid question I know :icon_redface:
Hmm... interesting question. I guess you could call it "ROOM SIZE", or "AMBIANCE" or "LATE REFLECTIONS" or RT60" (a technical term you can google), or something like that?
The main "REVERB" control is actually a bit like controlling how many soft furnishings are in the imaginary room, which damp the echoes and cause the reverb to die away quicker, so you could have "ROOM TYPE" and "SOFT FURNISHINGS" as your controls! :icon_lol:
RT60 is the time required for reflections of a direct sound to decay by 60 dB below the level of the direct sound.
I was thinking "Decay" but even if it would be technically correct it invoke something else. Like the decay of a distortion pedal.
But I really like the "AMBIANCE" suggestion :icon_biggrin:
QuoteCan you double check that R26 is 4.7k and not 470R?
Also, you haven't used these PTs for any other previous projects have you? If they latch up once, they will do it again and again, even when the delay resistance is increased to a 'safe' value.
QuoteThanks for the suggestion. I'll check this when I get back home on Friday. These were new unused PTs. I've used other PTs from this batch in other projects and haven't had an issue before, but I've seen a lot of other posts about how touchy they are. I guess it's my turn to have problems with them.
OK. So I did a little more checking. R26 is 4.7k.
I have about 1 dozen PT2399s. They all look identical - except for the batch numbers on them (at least I presume they are batch numbers). Two of them were from one batch, and the other 10 were from another newer batch. I pulled the 2 older ones from their socketed locations (in a Magnus Modulus, and a datasheet-spec delay). When I put these in the Equinox, it worked fine. I tried a few different combinations of PT2399s from the new batch in the Equinox, and they all had the same latch-up problem - although it looked like in some cases only one of the two chips latched.
As reported earlier, if I start up with low voltage, and then ramp it up to full voltage, the latch up problem doesn't occur. With a little experimentation, I found that if I just power the PT2399s with a lower-than-standard voltage (say 4.5V), they work fine. So I replaced the 7805 with and adjustable LM317, and hardwired the adjusting resistors to produce 4.3 V instead of 5V. Now my Equinox works fine.
I've heard of other folks INCREASING the PT2399 power supply to 6V in order to reduce the minimum delay time, so I thought decreasing the power supply voltage might increase the delay time (and make it more like a delay than a reverb). So far, I haven't heard a difference - but haven't tested that much yet.
It seems clear that some PT2399s do not perform as well as others, and I think it's probably related to their manufacturing batch rather than a particular vendor. If you have had the misfortune of getting a marginal batch - try reducing the power supply a bit. It worked for me.
Dudes, anyone to record some additional samples or video?
There are a couple MP3 samples in the first post.
This thread has been viewed nearly 6000 times, and there hasn't been a single build report! Guess I'm the only one who built one... :icon_lol:
Hi! Nope,
Quote from: merlinb on December 05, 2011, 05:28:03 AM
This thread has been viewed nearly 6000 times, and there hasn't been a single build report! Guess I'm the only one who built one... :icon_lol:
I was the one who build the 2nd (first in the forum) right? :icon_lol: A really great pedal! Thanks merlin and Govmnt Lacky!
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93421.20
Quote from: sugonidamaso on December 05, 2011, 07:08:05 AM
I was the one who build the 2nd (first in the forum) right? :icon_lol: A really great pedal! Thanks merlin and Govmnt Lacky!http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93421.20
But I want pictures, otherwise it never happened! ;)
QuoteGuess I'm the only one who built one...
Mine is more-or-less done. Works fine and sounds pretty much like Merlin's demo MP3. Not in a box yet, but I think I'm going to build it into a small stand-alone combo amp with a noisy cricket.
I substituted an LM317 (TO92) for the 7809 in order to reduce the supply voltage for the PT2399. You have to tack on a couple resistors to set it at the required voltage. As I mentioned above, REDUCING THE SUPPLY VOLTAGE TO THE PT2399 COMPLETELY FIXED THE LATCH-UP PROBLEM WITH MY MARGINAL PT2399s (shouted here so others might find/try this fix).
Thanks for sharing this, Merlin!
Pictures to come...
Quote from: merlinb on December 05, 2011, 05:28:03 AM
This thread has been viewed nearly 6000 times, and there hasn't been a single build report! Guess I'm the only one who built one... :icon_lol:
I built one and it did not work sadly. All i could get was a weak delay out of it.
PRobably shitty PT2399 but I dunno for sure.
Quote from: merlinb on December 05, 2011, 08:26:24 AM
Quote from: sugonidamaso on December 05, 2011, 07:08:05 AM
I was the one who build the 2nd (first in the forum) right? :icon_lol: A really great pedal! Thanks merlin and Govmnt Lacky!http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93421.20
But I want pictures, otherwise it never happened! ;)
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/Reverb/IMG_6623.jpg)
you mean this one? ;) already changed the 10ufNP to 1ufNP.
(http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/IMG_7831-1.jpg)
cosmetically, it sucks!but it sounds great!
Quote from: sugonidamaso on December 05, 2011, 10:11:13 AM
cosmetically, it sucks!but it sounds great!
Samples! Please! :icon_evil:
QuoteBut I want pictures, otherwise it never happened!
Here's mine. Not in a box yet. PT2399s finally working with reduced voltage. The sloppy-looking resistors hanging off of the right set the output of the lm317lz.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=46750&g2_serialNumber=2)
QuoteSamples! Please!
Another sample: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/waltk/Photos/Babe2.mp3.html (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/waltk/Photos/Babe2.mp3.html)
Used my DIY recording interface for this - left channel is with Equinox, right channel is straight from guitar.
Quote from: merlinb on December 05, 2011, 05:28:03 AM
This thread has been viewed nearly 6000 times, and there hasn't been a single build report! Guess I'm the only one who built one... :icon_lol:
Waiting for a 1590A layout :icon_mrgreen:
Or well time to sit down and fiddle together a 2PCB stacked layout so I can fit it in a 1590A , but very little time atm. Just 1 stompbox every weekend I'm afraid. and its a long list. :(
Thanks a LOT! thou great work and thanks for sharing! Will try when there is more time.
http://www.guitar-gear.ru/index.php?p=proj&id=71
here's a version by Russian pedalbuilders. they do link to this thread, though.
Quote from: egasimus on December 15, 2011, 03:11:32 AM
http://www.guitar-gear.ru/index.php?p=proj&id=71
here's a version by Russian pedalbuilders. they do link to this thread, though.
Incredible- they even re-did the PCB! those crazy Russians! :icon_mrgreen:
It's cuz they apparently use mostly Gainta enclosures instead of Hammond...
Quote from: merlinb on December 15, 2011, 08:54:13 AM
Quote from: egasimus on December 15, 2011, 03:11:32 AM
http://www.guitar-gear.ru/index.php?p=proj&id=71
here's a version by Russian pedalbuilders. they do link to this thread, though.
Incredible- they even re-did the PCB! those crazy Russians! :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: egasimus on December 15, 2011, 09:17:04 AM
It's cuz they apparently use mostly Gainta enclosures instead of Hammond...
Enclosures, yea >Hammond< is in reality a North America thing.
For instance In Europe, Hammond actually <Own> the company
Eddystone, who's enclosurs is standards complient and more
common.
(they have versions with close to exact the same dimentions as
all hammond stuff)
That is Eddystone is almost Identical to Hammond, with a slight
change in "style", Its corners arent as "soft" as hammond its
more Bauhaus ;) .
Anyway The economy in Europe lets people actually use Hammond.
Even thou here you have to pay a premium for them.
*Eddystone half or less the cost of Hammond.
It's all about where the stuff is manufactured, and slow to change
traditions.
Fun fact: its usually cheaper to buy handpainted hammond
enclosures from NorthAmerica including shipping to europe. then it
is to buy a stock untouched hammond enclosure in local electronics
shops (Local-online and brick and mortar store)
NorthAmerica <Hammond
Russia <Gainta
Europe <Eddystone
On TopicIts interesting that RuNET(Russian Internet) added a switch and externalised the mix pot. well worth to note that and try.
^ on-topic: wasn't there a switch in the original Equinox? What was it, bassier mode or sum'n?
Off-topic:
QuoteAnyway The economy in Europe lets people actually use Hammond.
Even thou here you have to pay a premium for them.
QuoteFun fact: its usually cheaper to buy handpainted hammond
enclosures from NorthAmerica including shipping to europe. then it
is to buy a stock untouched hammond enclosure in local electronics
shops (Local-online and brick and mortar store)
I live in Bulgaria.. It's not much of an European country, lol, $4000 per year is considered a normal income here. It's a funny place to live in... if you like black comedy, that is.
There's only one place near me where die-cast aluminum enclosures are to be found - namely Pro's Kit 125A and 125Bs, and one larger size. The 125Bs are 10BGN (~7USD) which is still prohibitively expensive for me with my ~250BGN wage.
The next best thing are boxes cut from a rectangular aluminum profile, like I saw in some tutorial somewhere. They have two big stoppers on each end, and cost ~2-3 BGN a piece, but look quite unprofessional with their (crappy) white powder coat. And, since they open from the sides, it's a bitch to fit anything in there.
Not really trying to make a point or anything - just sharing my experience... If you can give me a link to an online shop which can deliver powder-coated (and preferably pre-drilled) 1590B/125B enclosures to me for under 10EUR/piece in small numbers, I'd be eternally grateful.
Quote from: egasimus on December 15, 2011, 09:53:29 AM
^ on-topic: wasn't there a switch in the original Equinox? What was it, bassier mode or sum'n?
Off-topic:
QuoteAnyway The economy in Europe lets people actually use Hammond.
Even thou here you have to pay a premium for them.
QuoteFun fact: its usually cheaper to buy handpainted hammond
enclosures from NorthAmerica including shipping to europe. then it
is to buy a stock untouched hammond enclosure in local electronics
shops (Local-online and brick and mortar store)
I live in Bulgaria.. It's not much of an European country, lol, $4000 per year is considered a normal income here. It's a funny place to live in... if you like black comedy, that is.
There's only one place near me where die-cast aluminum enclosures are to be found - namely Pro's Kit 125A and 125Bs, and one larger size. The 125Bs are 10BGN (~7USD) which is still prohibitively expensive for me with my ~250BGN wage.
The next best thing are boxes cut from a rectangular aluminum profile, like I saw in some tutorial somewhere. They have two big stoppers on each end, and cost ~2-3 BGN a piece, but look quite unprofessional with their (crappy) white powder coat. And, since they open from the sides, it's a bitch to fit anything in there.
Not really trying to make a point or anything - just sharing my experience... If you can give me a link to an online shop which can deliver powder-coated (and preferably pre-drilled) 1590B/125B enclosures to me for under 10EUR/piece in small numbers, I'd be eternally grateful.
problem with that is the "small numbers"
I get most my hammond stuff from: [only when I want them pre-painted powder coat]
http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/
real real cheap, BUT! because of shipping you need to order a bunch at a time. like 6+ to really make it worth it.
When I buy NONpainted I tend to go for the eddystone
Or sometimes noted as "hammond 27134PSLA" usually ~3-5Euros or less from local places. or any european electronics supplier.
But if your after powder coated for "under 10EUR/piece". pedalpartsplus is still fine. about 6Euro a piece for 1590B size stuff including painting.
shipping is 35-40 USD ~29Euro. so if you order say 6-7boxes. you net at under 10Euro/Box shipped and painted.
Its usually 35-40USD shipping if you order 2boxes or 20.. so save up and order when you got lots of project ready for boxing, or pre-plan to order for what projects you plan to do in the near future.
EDIT:
thing is from my local supplier a 1590B costs 10Euro. NON painted, while the same die-cast alu eddystone is 4Euro. and a pre-painted 125 from pedalparts is 6Euro.
I've built the Equinox over Christmas and had the same problem others reported. I'd get signal out but no reverb - so I tried dropping the voltage as suggested and swapped out the PT2399s. I just used a spare BAT42 diode I had and soldered it to the output pin of the 78L05 which dropped the voltage to about 4.5 Volts. I still wasn't getting any reverb so I checked the signal path with my oscilloscope and it turned out I had a solder bridge which was shorting pins 15 and 16 of the first PT2399. Isn't is classic when you assume it is one thing and it turns out to be something else completely different! I always have to resist the temptation to start ripping the circuit apart.
Now it is working it is really good. Definitely worth the effort. :icon_biggrin:
Hello, :)
I love the sample sound for Equinox reverb, so i decided to build this one. And now I'm having a little trouble with my Equinox. Kindly check my work regarding the wiring and all. I used 3PDT for switch, BC337, 10uF NP and 8uF NP caps, TL072, 7805. I have bypass signal, and if I push the switch I just have the led ON but the sound same with bypass signal (No reverb sound At all), I try to rotate pots and trimpots but not effected the sound, I swapped for other PTs but nothing changed. I already measure voltages the op-amp and PT's.
Dual Opamp: Pin 8 and 4 = 8.57 V
PT2399: Pin 1 and 3 = 4.85 V
now i'm looking for ideas or suggestions for resolve my equinox problems
Here's some pict :
PCB Lane
(http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7864/img2678sf.jpg)
FRONT View
(http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/6117/img2680zl.jpg)
Wiring View
(http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/1482/img2682l.jpg)
Quote from: cobexonly on January 11, 2012, 08:19:11 AM
I have bypass signal, and if I push the switch I just have the led ON but the sound same with bypass signal (No reverb sound At all), I try to rotate pots and trimpots but not effected the sound, I swapped for other PTs but nothing changed.
I can't see anything in the photos yet... Try the screwdriver test I mentioned here:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93421.msg808420#msg808420
Thanks for reply merlin :)
I don't sure how the "reverberating pop in the speaker" sound like. So I make this video. check this out :
??? I'm confused :icon_cry:
Quote from: cobexonly on January 11, 2012, 10:26:50 AM
Thanks for reply merlin :)
I don't sure how the "reverberating pop in the speaker" sound like. So I make this video. check this out :
You were touching pin 1. You must touch
pin 16!
Quote from: merlinb on January 11, 2012, 11:06:24 AM
Quote from: cobexonly on January 11, 2012, 10:26:50 AM
Thanks for reply merlin :)
I don't sure how the "reverberating pop in the speaker" sound like. So I make this video. check this out :
You were touching pin 1. You must touch pin 16!
OMG, sorry I was careless. :icon_eek: :icon_mrgreen:
I just poke at pin 16 and the results are the same as when I poke Pin 1 on that video ....
Quote from: cobexonly on January 11, 2012, 11:19:05 AM
I just poke at pin 16 and the results are the same as when I poke Pin 1 on that video ....
That suggests some possible causes:
1: Faulty PT2399?
2: Incorrect pot wiring?
3: Signal from PT2399 is not reaching opamp- check for PCB problems and incorrect components in this path?
Could you post the voltages on
all of the IC pins?
Quote from: merlinb on January 11, 2012, 11:50:21 AM
Quote from: cobexonly on January 11, 2012, 11:19:05 AM
I just poke at pin 16 and the results are the same as when I poke Pin 1 on that video ....
That suggests some possible causes:
1: Faulty PT2399?
2: Incorrect pot wiring?
3: Signal from PT2399 is not reaching opamp- check for PCB problems and incorrect components in this path?
Could you post the voltages on all of the IC pins?
1. Maybe ???... I post the voltage first in the all IC
2. I've checked and no wrong pin
3. I've checked path of PCB, no broken or short. And there are some parts that I replace such as:
I put 27k resistor in R19, the original value should be 22K
I put 2.2nF capasitor in C5, the original value should be 10nF
I put 12nF capacitor in C8, the original value should be 10nF
I put 12nF capacitor in C11, the original value should be 10nF
Is it possible because of component substitution is causing the problem? ???
Here is the voltage
IC 1 PT2399
1 = 4.84 V
2 = 2.43 V
3 = 2.8 mV
4 = 27.g mV
5 = 2.78 V
6 = 2.42 V
7 = 0.7 V
8 = 0.7 V
9 = 2.4 V
10 = 2.4 V
11 = 2.43 V
12 = 2.43 V
13 = 2.43 V
14 = 2.5 V
15 = 2.5 V
16 = 2.5 V
IC 2 PT2399
1 = 4.8 V
2 = 2.4 V
3 = 3.9 mV
4 = 35 mV
5 = 2.7 V
6 = 2.4 V
7 = 1.3 V
8 = 0.9 V
9 = 2.4 V
10 = 2.4 V
11 = 2.4 V
12 = 2.4 V
13 = 2.4 V
14 = 2.4 V
15 = 2.4 V
16 = 2.4 V
Op amp TL072
1 = 4.3 V
2 = 4.3 V
3 = 3.9 V
4 = 2.5 mV
5 = 4.3 V
6 = 4.3 V
7 = 4.4 V
8 = 8.7 V
???
Quote from: cobexonly on January 11, 2012, 06:53:17 PM
Is it possible because of component substitution is causing the problem? ???
Voltages all look OK.
Parts substitutions are not a problem (I think).
Take a piece of wire and jumper the two outer legs of the BC337; this will bypass the electronic switch. Any improvement?
(Actually you could remove the transistor from the socket and stuff the wire into the socket instead)
Quote from: merlinb on January 12, 2012, 05:25:32 AM
Quote from: cobexonly on January 11, 2012, 06:53:17 PM
Is it possible because of component substitution is causing the problem? ???
Voltages all look OK.
Parts substitutions are not a problem (I think).
Take a piece of wire and jumper the two outer legs of the BC337; this will bypass the electronic switch. Any improvement?
(Actually you could remove the transistor from the socket and stuff the wire into the socket instead)
I finally got my sound reverb :D.... I am very pleased. thanks for helping me solve this problem merlin ... :icon_wink:
Quote from: cobexonly on January 12, 2012, 08:13:17 AM
I finally got my sound reverb :D.... I am very pleased. thanks for helping me solve this problem merlin ... :icon_wink:
Great! But what was wrong with it ???
Quote from: merlinb on January 12, 2012, 08:25:25 AM
Quote from: cobexonly on January 12, 2012, 08:13:17 AM
I finally got my sound reverb :D.... I am very pleased. thanks for helping me solve this problem merlin ... :icon_wink:
Great! But what was wrong with it ???
This is a chronology : :icon_mrgreen:
1. First I replace the resistor and capacitor that I replace before with the original value. --> Not produced good results
2. I replace 7805 with LM317 + couple resistor (make voltage drop to 4.2V). but still no result, so I am replace back again using 7805.
3. I spray the PCB using contact cleaner and then brush it with a toothbrush. but not yet produced good results
4. I try to pull out the BC337 and then jumper using wire. But it has not produced results. So I put BC337 back to the socket.
5. Then I'm take a part my rebote delay 2.5. I try PT2399 that installed in equinox to runing in Rebote delay (To make sure PT2399 in normal condition) finally running smoothly in rebote delay. I finally plug PT2399 back in the equinox and I get a hard oscilating in a few minutes and finally after it appeared the reverb sounding.
6. actually i also don't know what happened at my PT2399 ... ???
7. The important thing is now running smoothly ... hehe ^ _ ^
:icon_lol:
I'm forgot to say : I replace TL072 with LM833 :icon_cool:
after a one day my equinox was running smoothly, now my equinox is getting error again. ???
I make a videos to figure out the problem is and possibility to fix that's error ...
Note : "there is no part that was replaced / substitute, all in accordance with the recommended part"
Here's the video :
"Please excuse my poor/bad English" :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: cobexonly on January 13, 2012, 11:33:39 PM
after a one day my equinox was running smoothly, now my equinox is getting error again. ???
I make a videos to figure out the problem is and possibility to fix that's error ...
The popping sounds like a broken wire or guitar cable. It also sounds like you have a troublesome PT2399 (or two). This might be because they have latched-up during a previous project, or because they are faulty. Some faulty PT2399s have been sold recently; they can oscillate. How many PT2399s do you have in your collection? When did you buy them?
Quote from: merlinb on January 14, 2012, 07:16:08 AM
Quote from: cobexonly on January 13, 2012, 11:33:39 PM
after a one day my equinox was running smoothly, now my equinox is getting error again. ???
I make a videos to figure out the problem is and possibility to fix that's error ...
The popping sounds like a broken wire or guitar cable. It also sounds like you have a troublesome PT2399 (or two). This might be because they have latched-up during a previous project, or because they are faulty. Some faulty PT2399s have been sold recently; they can oscillate. How many PT2399s do you have in your collection? When did you buy them?
I have 5 PT2399's, I buy from local electronic store here. And now I put 2 new PT2399 at equinox, until now running smoothly ... Hopefully will always be stable ... ;)
Finally after a few days mess around with my equinox stability problem :o . Today I find great solution, I have to do a little mod to my equinox, I need to jumper cables like the photo below : :icon_biggrin:
(http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/5207/pcbo.jpg)
After I do that my equinox work very smoothly without any latching problems or something error else.
(http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/2716/equinox1.jpg)
This is the video, I take with a cheap camera.
"Please ignore the knob label :icon_lol:" ;D
Mine wasn't working. Went over it with a magnifying glass looking for a bridge or crack. Everything checked out AOK. Tried sticking another diode in series with the 5v supply to drop things down a bit. Didn't do it. Then, going through this thread, I looked at the Russian site, and realized that there was supposed to be a switch. For some reason, I thought the board represented the entire circuit and I was all set to run the input and output pads to a stompswitch. However, the Russian site drew my attention to the presence of a switch connected to the pads at the edge. It should have been obvious to me, but somehow the schematic drawing threw me off. So I wired up a switch and bingo-bango, I had reverb!
Finally got round to re-etching my Equinox. Didn't come out too badly, though I still haven't quite got the hang of it, clearly!
I also made a couple of mods to reduce the bass; changed C33 to 15nF, and C13 to 100nF.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/Equinox.jpg)
wow!great work merlin!i'm interested on how to etch in the box???designs?applications?sorry off topic.hope you don't mind. :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: sugonidamaso on January 18, 2012, 09:50:21 AM
wow!great work merlin!i'm interested on how to etch in the box???
See Slade's thread about etching:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=80962.0
Thank you....
Quote from: Mark Hammer on January 15, 2012, 04:22:56 PM
Mine wasn't working. Went over it with a magnifying glass looking for a bridge or crack. Everything checked out AOK. Tried sticking another diode in series with the 5v supply to drop things down a bit. Didn't do it. Then, going through this thread, I looked at the Russian site, and realized that there was supposed to be a switch. For some reason, I thought the board represented the entire circuit and I was all set to run the input and output pads to a stompswitch. However, the Russian site drew my attention to the presence of a switch connected to the pads at the edge. It should have been obvious to me, but somehow the schematic drawing threw me off. So I wired up a switch and bingo-bango, I had reverb!
what switch is that? ???
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on February 15, 2012, 08:31:25 AM
what switch is that? ???
The switch that routes the junction of R22/R24 to either +9v or ground. If you look at the schematic, it's way up in the right hand corner of the drawing.
The tails switch. :D
No. the tails switch was working fine. This is the bypass switch. It applies V+ or grounds the base of the transistor it connects to, enabling or preventing the send to the delay path. It doesn't "bypass" the effect, but simply cancels/disables it. The signal passes through the input and output buffers at all times.
What?!? :o
and here I thought that was the tails switch..so where's the tails switch? ???
It's over on the left side of the schematic.
Isn't that the bass cut switch? ???
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on February 15, 2012, 11:57:41 AM
Isn't that the bass cut switch? ???
Looks like there's some confusion! This is probably because I don't use true bypass switching- I think it's silly. I also like my delay effects to have tails. Hence this circuit has two switches.
1: Bass cut switch (it's just a toggle switch).
2: The footswitch. This controls the JFET on the PCB to give bypass with tails.
If you choose to use true bypassing instead, then you can eliminate the JFET and jumper it, or alternatively wire the gate control voltage permanently to 9V.
I was right.. ;D ;D
Note that the 10uf cap after the mix level pot can easily be dropped to a much smaller value. I dropped mine to 1uf, but it can probably be as low as .22uf or .1uf without much difficulty. The smaller the value, the "brighter" the reverb will seem. Just note that since most of the signal lives in the basement, raising the bass rolloff point via that cap will likely require you to also reduce the value of the mixing resistor (R5) to perhaps 3k9 or even 2k2).
Note that, since it comes with "tails", one could productively use a momentary stompswitch for the on-board switching. That would let the user effectively "punch in" for a phrase, then punch out, letting the reverb decay in its own time. That's actually a pretty dang useful trick for more straightforward delays too.
Quote from: Mark Hammer on February 15, 2012, 02:49:35 PM
Note that the 10uf cap after the mix level pot can easily be dropped to a much smaller value. I dropped mine to 1uf, but it can probably be as low as .22uf or .1uf without much difficulty. The smaller the value, the "brighter" the reverb will seem.
Isn't that what C33 is for? A bright sound?
will a faulty PT2399 make the 78l05 heat up?
or a latch up make the 78l05 heat up?
i built this reverb and i get no reverb, just passing signal.and one of the symptoms is the 78l05 gettin really hot. also, when i engage the tails switch, i get passing signal (with no reverb) but when i disengage it, the passing signal is gone. not really sure what happened. I replaced 4.7k's with 4.6k's since i got them lying around..
thanks..
edit.
Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 09:21:12 AM
Yes I did see that. There's a bypass signal/tone now. After I remove the ground connected on my spdt footswitch. It also appears that the opamp measured 9.14v. I'll look for something else.
Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 10:25:29 AM
IT'S WORKING! It is the SWITCH(the foot switch from my wah-crybaby spdt)! ;D How will I wire it? When I try to switch it off the whole effect shuts down-no bypass signal. Yes, the pot is the other way around.
something like this happens to my tails switch.disconnecting the ground from the spdt switch will fix the problem but still, no reverb.
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on February 19, 2012, 12:23:03 AM
will a faulty PT2399 make the 78l05 heat up?
or a latch up make the 78l05 heat up?
Yes. (The 78L05 has internal thermal shutdown, so it shouldn't come to harm)
Quote
when i engage the tails switch, i get passing signal (with no reverb) but when i disengage it, the passing signal is gone.
Sounds like there is a short or something wired wrong around Q1. Did you sub a different transistor by any chance?
Quote from: merlinb on February 19, 2012, 07:47:48 AM
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on February 19, 2012, 12:23:03 AM
will a faulty PT2399 make the 78l05 heat up?
or a latch up make the 78l05 heat up?
Yes. (The 78L05 has internal thermal shutdown, so it shouldn't come to harm)
Quote
when i engage the tails switch, i get passing signal (with no reverb) but when i disengage it, the passing signal is gone.
Sounds like there is a short or something wired wrong around Q1. Did you sub a different transistor by any chance?
Nope. No short whatsoever. Though disconnecting the ground or just leaving the middle lug of spdt switch unconnected to ground works just fine. Cant really tell why I get no reverb. Though some of the capacitors I used were used capacitors I just desoldered from another pcb project. Also I re-wired the 1N4001 diode in such a way that it acts as a fixed diode protection, so I get exact 9V at the DC power. Or an 8.4V really necessary to make this work?
Thanks..
some photos, but still not working though..
(http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/7353/img1005ab.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/20/img1005ab.jpg/)
(http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/2541/img1008fx.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/842/img1008fx.jpg/)
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on February 27, 2012, 10:03:37 PM
some photos, but still not working though..
I can't see anything wrong with the photos, except the missing switching transistor Q1. I don't know what to suggest; I mean, it's a PCB project. If you etch and stuff the PCB correctly then it has to work. If it doesn't work then there is a problem with the etch, or you've wired something up wrong, and you are the best person to check that. (Or possibly you have one of those dodgy PT2399s)
I assume the blue wire on the left goes to the pole of the footswitch?
Yes. To the footswitch.
Must be the PT2399 as I see no other errors.
In your last photo, it looks like there's still toner all over your traces. Is that just an artifact of the photography, or did you really just solder through the toner?
looks more like photo-resist
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on February 27, 2012, 10:03:37 PM
some photos, but still not working though..
Hang on... it looks like you might have C28 backwards. That could be the cause of the hot 7805...
Quote from: alparent on February 28, 2012, 01:13:34 PM
looks more like photo-resist
yup, photo resist. I used pre-sensitized PCB's.
Quote from: merlinb on February 28, 2012, 01:50:21 PM
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on February 27, 2012, 10:03:37 PM
some photos, but still not working though..
Hang on... it looks like you might have C28 backwards. That could be the cause of the hot 7805...
Holy cow how come I didn't see that?!? :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek:
Quote from: mr_deadmaxxx on March 01, 2012, 10:01:47 AM
Holy cow how come I didn't see that?!? :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek:
Basic law of electronics. It doesn't matter how many times you check the board, you always have to check it one more time to find the last error.
I always look at the solder side.. ;D
I brought my Equinox (and several tubs full of other pedals) to a jam/rehearsal last night. It was the first time I'd ever heard it at anything above conversation level. Sounded great! Very pleased.
I can't wait to make this one. Definitely with a momentary foot switch:
QuoteMark Hammer: Note that, since it comes with "tails", one could productively use a momentary stompswitch for the on-board switching. That would let the user effectively "punch in" for a phrase, then punch out, letting the reverb decay in its own time.
I was thinking of adding a tap tempo mod, what do you think? ;)
Not to rain on your parade, but I don't know that tap tempo will have easily discernible effects on a simulated reverb. After all, the point of reverb is to make the repeats rather indistinguishable from each other.
Quote from: Mark Hammer on March 02, 2012, 09:23:30 AM
Not to rain on your parade, but I don't know that tap tempo will have easily discernible effects on a simulated reverb. After all, the point of reverb is to make the repeats rather indistinguishable from each other.
I hope that was dry humour, Mark...
That's my fault for assuming sarcasm can come across on a text forum :icon_redface: Couldn't help but laugh at the idea of tapping in a tempo for reverb i.e. 100,000 bpm
Okay, I get it now. *I* was the one who was out of the loop. :icon_rolleyes:
How does it work if I would like to use Hall and Pathroom Reverb types?
Would this be the circuit to build?
Fired this up late last night. Sounds great! Now to play with some feedback
and filtering. Thanks Merlin!
Ahhh. this is such a nice sounding pedal, but i cant get mine to work. theres a short somewhere and i cant find it. i just decided to etch a new board and start over. when i was cutting the copper clad board to size, the box cutter i was using slipped onto the speed square and cut the tip of my finger OFF. this project has been hell (through no fault of the designer) .
sounds great merlin. cant wait to finish it.
edit: does anyone have any spare pcbs?
Hello everyone!
I've recently built my copy of Equinox Reverb. Audio processing seems to work fine, except that it's quite noisy (my idea is to put it in one box with Echo Base, which also uses a PT2399 and doesn't produce any noise). The noise stays the same no matter if the reverb is on or off. Moreover I can't really hear the difference between "Low cut" on and off. I'm really out of ideas - after spending a lot of time examining the PCB, I can't find any shorts etc. Help!
Here are the pictures of my build:
http://imageshack.us/a/img197/9584/dsc00587jy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img21/4291/dsc00585ux.jpg
Let me know if you need audio samples or a close up of any part...
hi
sorry about the noob question:
The pot P2 can be lin or log right?
Pots *can* always be one or the other (or antilog), it's just a matter of user-interface aesthetics. You know how some amps' volume knobs go from inaudible to crazy loud in 10 degrees turn? That's the issue with potentiometer taper.
Linear would be the choice here, if you have. Schemes usually make the need for audio, or log (or antilog) explicit (as in P1). Any will work fine, as long as the value (20k) is correct. Even if the value is higher, it will still 'work', but not as gracefully as the designer intended. In this case (with Merlin), I'd stick as close to the schematic as financially possible.
Here's a good quick read you should check out (http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm)
welcome to the forum!
I´ve been following the boom and the doubt of the pot came because the note was only on one off the pots
Here in Portugal I couldn´t find the pt2399... even it´s a ic called PT :) but okay... long live ebay....
The other problem was the caps ND... after running from several shops I only found a polyester cap of 1,5uf but I think it's okay
Thx for the welcome... I enjoy this stuff... I love play and I love to build my things.... I remember when I was a kid seeing my father drawing pcb with a edding pen :)
today´s more simple!!!
But yea! I´m starting from zero here! 100% noob!
Feedback of my first stompbox as soon my ic arrive from hong kong!
obrigado
Sérgio
I've noticed a fact that might be important: the noise goes away when I turn down the level pot (what doesn't surprise me, but the same happens when the reverb is bypassed!). I also checked the circuit with PT's removed - of course there is no reverb, but I still can hear some minor noise which might be the cause (the reverb line amplifies it). I also tried to replace the TL072CN - no change. The wires used to connect the circuit to the amp ought to be ok, because I use them with many other stompboxes and never noticed any problems. Anyone willing to help?
Quote from: brv on December 06, 2012, 01:58:25 AM
I've noticed a fact that might be important: the noise goes away when I turn down the level pot
What kind of noise is it?
It will be easier if I make a sample. Here's the link:
https://soundcloud.com/brv-2/reverb-noise
The sample consists of three parts - first one is the amp only (no noise at all), second - low level reverb and the third one - high level reverb. For me it sounds as if something was not grounded properly, but that's only a suggestion. Still the fact the noise almost (not entirely!) disappears when the Level know is down makes me wonder - this seems to be the same noise level (maybe a little higher) as with the PT's removed.
So i build this baby yesterday since my pt2399 arrived from ebay!
But i dosent work! for start the led dont light up.
I checked for bridges... i can see none!
check the parts e all seems nice
I have on both pt 5v on pin 1
help please!
start here. (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0)
So I checked again the components and all are ok. The trans U4 (78L05) is F**** hot!!
The U1 that I have is different. I have an TL082 and not the TL072 indicated on the boom....
Voltages:
U1
Pin 1: 16,10mV Pin 8: 2,06v
Pin 2: 12,50mv Pin 7: 8,6mv
Pin 3: 0v Pin 6: 9,6mv
Pin 4: 0v Pin 5: 0v
U2
Pin 1: 4,20V Pin 16: 2,06v
Pin 2: 2v Pin 15: 2,06v
Pin 3: 01.1 mv Pin 14: 2,06v
Pin 4: 1,47v Pin 13: 2,06v
Pin 5: 4,17v Pin 12: 2,05v
Pin 6: 1,99v Pin 11:2,05v
Pin 7: 0,12v Pin 10: 0,73v
Pin 8: 3,90v Pin 9: 4,06v
U3
Pin 1: 4,72V Pin 16: 2,11v
Pin 2: 2,22v Pin 15: 2,11v
Pin 3: 01.2 mv Pin 14: 2,11v
Pin 4: 1,65v Pin 13: 2,11v
Pin 5: 4,40v Pin 12: 2,11v
Pin 6: 2,11v Pin 11:2,11v
Pin 7: 0,15v Pin 10: 0,77v
Pin 8: 4,07v Pin 9: 4,20v
There are several pins that when I was probing start decreasing is values but I suppose that is the caps...
some pics
(http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy38/gtangas/20130102_134445_zpsae55b53b.jpg)
(http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy38/gtangas/20130102_134433_zps244e3d64.jpg)
Those U1 voltages look WAYYYYYYY bad!
Check around there for problems
QuoteThose U1 voltages look WAYYYYYYY bad!
Check around there for problems
+1
QuotePin 8: 2,06v
Pin 5: 0v
pin 8 should = power supply voltage, i.e. +9V
pin 5 should = power supply voltage divided in half, i.e. +4.5V
so i´m going to check everything! :icon_cry:
i will start for the soldering and then to components! OMG!!!
ok so i have check the solder and all the components. No bridges, no wrong components, no wrong caps orientation!
Any sugestion?
Follow the trace from D1 to pin 8 of U1 with your multimeter. How could the voltage be +9V at the regulator (which is giving you +5V) and only +2V at pin 8?
Quote from: garcho on January 03, 2013, 07:57:04 PM
Follow the trace from D1 to pin 8 of U1 with your multimeter. How could the voltage be +9V at the regulator (which is giving you +5V) and only +2V at pin 8?
look what i have found!!!!!!
this are the readings from point to point
(http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy38/gtangas/equinoxVReadings_zpsa1ec3d3e.jpg)
I dont understand!!!!!!
So, is pin 8 U1 at +2V or 0V?
Quote from: garcho on January 04, 2013, 03:14:29 AM
So, is pin 8 U1 at +2V or 0V?
I was getting the 2v. Yesterday I redone some soldering, cables new pots... After that 0v
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 04:07:38 AM
I was getting the 2v. Yesterday I redone some soldering, cables new pots... After that 0v
How come your 9V input actually says 6.91V?
Remove both PT2399s and try to get U1 to working before anything else.
Quote from: merlinb on January 04, 2013, 04:49:42 AM
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 04:07:38 AM
I was getting the 2v. Yesterday I redone some soldering, cables new pots... After that 0v
How come your 9V input actually says 6.91V?
Remove both PT2399s and try to get U1 to working before anything else.
The battery is not new... maybe that explains the +/-7V
the strange thing is why i have voltage to the left side of the diode exit (green line) and no voltage to the right side (red line)!!
The trans U4 is very hot... if i take out the PT it doesn't get hot at all!!!
If I were you, I would start by re-flowing ALL of the solder joints on ALL of your power rails. Some of those solder joints (especially the power input joints) look very suspect.
Also, trace along the ENTIRE power rail (9V AND 5V) with a magnifying glass and an xacto knife to ensure there are no bridges.
why the ****** the voltage don't flows to both sides?!?!
this pcb was the first etching i did! so the job isn't good... at all!!
after this one i made a few more and the results are getting much better! I´m using magazine paper
All-ready finished a rangemaster, a blue delay and now i want to finish my most wanted!
I sold my old crate vintage club amp and bought a tubemeister 18 head... so no reverb on it! And i love the sound of this equibox reverb!
I´m having a great fun with this lunch box amp BTW!
Honestly i´m pointing the problem to the pcb it self! Perhaps etching a new pcb for this baby solves the problem!
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 08:24:04 AM
why the ****** the voltage don't flows to both sides?!?!
Check for continuity between Pin 8 of the dual op amp and the diode's cathode. You probably have a break in the trace somewhere.
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 08:24:04 AM
why the ****** the voltage don't flows to both sides?!?!
Are you sure it is not simply dirt/toner transfer on the copper, stopping your meter probe from making contact with the copper?
Quote from: merlinb on January 04, 2013, 11:00:49 AM
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 08:24:04 AM
why the ****** the voltage don't flows to both sides?!?!
Are you sure it is not simply dirt/toner transfer on the copper, stopping your meter probe from making contact with the copper?
PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
The problem was the PCB... as i showed on the photo there was no voltage going neither to pin 8 or any other pin! So i remove the solder on that spot and found that when i drill the pcb i cut the copper line or almost cut it because the first time i had some V measures on some of the pins.
fixed that spot; put a fresh battery and test it. The led was on but.... just bypass signal!
I bought a pack of 5 PT so i changed the pt and... "Houston we have Reverb"
I haven't box it so i´m having some static/interference noise but i believe that will disappear after i box it
Do you think i fried the PT´s??? is there a way to check it?
I dont notice a big change on tone using the switch. I think i read that you made some mods... any tips?
Resuming... I´m learning... and making mistakes it´s the best way!! :icon_lol: BS.... Is much better to finish the build... fire it up and play! hehehehe
Thx for the help.
Merlin nice reverb!!!
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 06:33:57 PM
Do you think i fried the PT´s??? is there a way to check it?
I wouldn't expect them to be damaged, since they received nothing more than 5V. But some PTs are just bad. Plug 'em in, and if they don't work, well, then they're kaput.
Quote
I dont notice a big change on tone using the switch. I think i read that you made some mods... any tips?
Yes, I reduced C33 to 10nF I think. You could try even smaller.
Quote from: merlinb on January 04, 2013, 06:47:46 PM
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 06:33:57 PM
Do you think i fried the PT´s??? is there a way to check it?
I wouldn't expect them to be damaged, since they received nothing more than 5V. But some PTs are just bad. Plug 'em in, and if they don't work, well, then they're kaput.
Quote
I dont notice a big change on tone using the switch. I think i read that you made some mods... any tips?
Yes, I reduced C33 to 10nF I think. You could try even smaller.
ok, i will try changing the value of the cap i see the dif. I saw that you design the solstice. In your opinion witch sound best?
I haven't receive from ebay my boxes, knobs, etc... but improvised and built a home for this baby. i have to paint the box but... it´s working!
(http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy38/gtangas/20130106_220734_zps358050be.jpg)
(http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy38/gtangas/20130106_220553_zps590db651.jpg)
Thx
Quote from: gtangas on January 06, 2013, 05:40:55 PM
I haven't receive from ebay my boxes, knobs, etc... but improvised and built a home for this baby. i have to paint the box but... it´s working!
Paint? Why? It looks great already! :icon_biggrin: Just shield the inside (if it needs it) and varnish the wood.
thx man
Its second wood box that i use... cheap! hehe The only cons its the length of the wires... to open it!
here is another box. the thunder puss booster by Madbean
(http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy38/gtangas/20121230_214214_zpsda53611c.jpg)
It worked for me once I figured out the same thing that Mark did regarding the switch integration, then I got it in the rack and it didn't work. Long story short, cobexonly's jumper between 2 lugs of the pot and 2 diodes in a series to drop the 5v down a bit got it working reliably so far on the bench.
Very cool circuit! This will definitely have a permanent place in my rack
People, from Argentina 8)
Try with HT8970 INSTEAD OF PT2399, its soo vintage :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:
Etched up the board for this baby tonight and populated it. Worked first shot upon applying power. Will need to get the box done up for it next.
Thanks Merlin, great reverb!!!!!!!
Cheers,
Russ
I've noticed that the Bass Cut switch in my build doesn't change the sound much?
Should I lower C4 after the switch or raise it to get a more pronounce difference?
Thanks
Quote from: alparent on March 02, 2013, 01:37:52 AM
I've noticed that the Bass Cut switch in my build doesn't change the sound much?
Should I lower C4 after the switch or raise it to get a more pronounce difference?
Thanks
Since its cutting the bass before the actual reverb circuit, there isnt a pronounced big difference in the sound. I think it also depends on the guitar. I notice with my acoustic the difference is more noticeable than with my Gretsch or tele :\
You could try playing with cap sizes, but I would not expect a huge difference in the bass.
Quote from: frequencycentral on September 20, 2011, 12:18:53 PM
Easier way to the soundclip: http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard2/Equinox.mp3
What a great little circuit! Viva DIY!
Edit! Will someone please put me out of my misery and tell me which Zeppelin song that is?
BABE I'M GONNA LEAVE YOU!!!
Sorry if it is said before, but can Equinox reverb as on this post be build with 3pdt switch and how? Also if this is impossible than which is input, ground, and output on PCB board?
I gathered all of the parts in the first version posted here accept for the TRANSISTOR BC337....any advice on substitutions? I did a search and it came up with nothing. Thanks in advance for any assistance!
Quote from: Lbzg on March 13, 2013, 12:26:34 PM
Sorry if it is said before, but can Equinox reverb as on this post be build with 3pdt switch and how? Also if this is impossible than which is input, ground, and output on PCB board?
Here it is.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93868.msg815477#msg815477
Quote from: Canucker on March 31, 2013, 04:09:02 PM
I gathered all of the parts in the first version posted here accept for the TRANSISTOR BC337....any advice on substitutions? I did a search and it came up with nothing. Thanks in advance for any assistance!
Any high gain transistor will work. You can also use a JFET if you replace R23 with a diode.
Hi everyone!
Thanks for the circuit, made and managed it running finally, now works like a charm.
I have figured out something while trying to bring up this nifty thing. My circuit was built
around the alternative layout by "crazy russians", a perfectly made PCB, some 11pc. of PT2399 (one came from
different year/manufacturer) - but I have also ran into weird oscillating problem... It was the R11 which should have
been 15k, but I have put a 75K there (easy to mix up the two) - the oscillation has gone. But that was not everything.
The only chip working in this circuit was my older PT2399 pulled out from a rebote delay, while all the 11 were
perfectly working in the rebote delay!!! Mystery? No! It turned out that the "russian" layout inherited something that
is strictly speaking a design mistake. This mistake finally leads to so many hassle about "latching", faulty PT2399,
playing with V+ etc. - which is too bad, because it's useless, so many potentially working circuits were thrown away -
the problem is not there.
The problem is is the non-existent connection of pin 4 of each PT2399 to the ground (nearby pin 3). Pin 4 represents the digital ground of
the circuit and seems to be internally connected to analogue ground only in SOME of the PT2399( and such a case
is not a rule but rather an exception that shouldn't be ever exploited), while others
REQUIRE connecting DGND and AGND pins (4 and 3 respectively) to the ground. I'm just curious why this was not
implemented in the original circuit (could have saved so many lives :D ) while the datasheet states black&white this has to be done?
Especially considering it's all about 2 traces 2 millimeters each...
Anyway, I recommend the author to update the design layout and everybody try again your all "faulty" PT's just have their pins 3 and 4
connected by a solder bridge.
Hope this could be helpful.
BR,
Vikt0r
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 06:33:57 PM
Do you think i fried the PT´s??? is there a way to check it?
No, you didn't.
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 06:33:57 PM
I dont notice a big change on tone using the switch. I think i read that you made some mods... any tips?
That's because there is NO CHANGE - the PT's are not working.
Quote from: gtangas on January 04, 2013, 06:33:57 PM
Resuming... I´m learning... and making mistakes it´s the best way!! :icon_lol: BS.... Is much better to finish the build... fire it up and play! hehehehe
It's actually not your mistake, but still good for learning. First, short pins 3 and 4 of each PT2399, then check again.
Quote from: Vikt0r on April 17, 2013, 06:32:34 PM
SOME of the PT2399( and such a case is not a rule but rather an exception that shouldn't be ever exploited), while others
REQUIRE connecting DGND and AGND pins (4 and 3 respectively) to the ground.
Thanks for the info, I have updated my website :)
Hello
I have bought all the parts for this build....and I am a total Noob at this ... Would like to know if anyone can help with a Vero board layout PLEASE .... I
Attila
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/equinox+mother.jpg.html
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/pt2399+boxes.jpg.html
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/Schematics-etc/equinox+daughter.jpg.html
Attached (I think - first time uploading) are photos of my Equinox build (centre of PT2399 group photo - others are Madbean Cave Dweller Delay - black knobs and Frequency Central Little Angel - white knobs). Here are the details:
Bypass switching - deleted Q1 and it's resistors and cap.
Socket for C13 - 1uF cap used
Socket for C33 - .1uF cap used
Deleted C4 and it's switch
1590B box
Daughter board for the OpAmp section and the LED underneath the mother board.
"Room Type" pot off boarded to save board space
I have been having issues with the 78L05 overheating and have an LM7805 to replace it.
Thanks Merlin et al for your input over the last week.
Is there any reason not to use the 5V as the bias supply (for this or any project with a 5V reg)? It would save on parts and possibly simplify the tracing.
Don't quote me on this, but when you're working with mixed mode (part analog, part digital) circuits it's generally best to keep digital parts separate from the analog parts. What I mean is having separate grounds, supplies and such is a good idea. This is why the PT2399 has an analog ground pin and a digital ground pin. If you have common grounds etc. you'll find that noise from the digital parts of the circuit will creep into the analog parts. So yes, there is a reason why you shouldn't use the 5V as the bias. Also, what's the point? How much will 2 resistors and a capacitor cost?
Quote from: psychedelicfish on August 24, 2013, 01:17:54 AM
Don't quote me on this, but when you're working with mixed mode (part analog, part digital) circuits it's generally best to keep digital parts separate from the analog parts. What I mean is having separate grounds, supplies and such is a good idea. This is why the PT2399 has an analog ground pin and a digital ground pin. If you have common grounds etc. you'll find that noise from the digital parts of the circuit will creep into the analog parts. So yes, there is a reason why you shouldn't use the 5V as the bias. Also, what's the point? How much will 2 resistors and a capacitor cost?
In general I agree about the cost and space concern for components, but I try to keep things as small as possible to fit the circuit in a small box. In a small build, 2 resistors and a capacitor cost a lot of valuable real estate. But more importantly is that two voltage traces becoming one greatly simplifies the layout. When you have traces for ground, signal, 4.5V, 5V, and 9V things can get hairy, especially in a single sided tight layout.
I see what you are saying about keeping analog and digital references separate. However it is reported that the analog and digital pins for the PT2399 should both be connected to analog ground. You can read this on Merlin's site (Small Time description and the PT2399 notes). I don't see how using a 5V regulated reference as a bias is any different than taking a 9V regulated reference, dividing the potential and using it as a bias.
Quote from: JFace on August 23, 2013, 11:57:42 AM
Is there any reason not to use the 5V as the bias supply.
Yes, it will be very noisy with digital-induced hash. I don't recommend it.
Quote from: JFace on August 24, 2013, 06:13:06 AM
However it is reported that the analog and digital pins for the PT2399 should both be connected to analog ground.
I read somewhere (on this forum, I forget where) that it's actually better to connect the digital ground to the main circuit ground through a small choke, which filters out the nasty digital crap from your normal ground.
I am in the process of finishing a slightly streamlined version of the Equinox. It dispenses with the bright/fat switch and delay trim pot, as they weren't very useful. Here are the build docs so far:
http://valvewizard.co.uk/equinoxII.PDF (http://valvewizard.co.uk/equinoxII.PDF)
(http://valvewizard.co.uk/equinoxIIschem.jpg)
Quote from: merlinb on August 25, 2013, 03:56:18 PM
I am in the process of finishing a slightly streamlined version of the Equinox.
Nice! This was on my build list already ... I'll try to make it into a vero! :icon_cool:
Hi Merlin,
I'm building a 15W DC-30 amp clone and I thought to include a serial/parallel effects loop from your book just to experiment and learn.
If I wanted to use the Equinox II in a parallel loop, I have to kill the dry signal.
How would you do it? Is it enough to put SPST switch between R4 and U1A pin2? Switch closed means normal operation, switch open kills the dry and there's just the wet suitable for parallel loops...
Or do you have any other idea?
I thought also to build the Equinox inside the amp but I don't know how to connect it as DC-30 uses both legs of the PI to mix the channels and I would like to have the reverb on both channels. That's why I started to look at loops ..
Thanks
stefan
Quote from: chobot123 on October 18, 2013, 11:31:31 AM
Is it enough to put SPST switch between R4 and U1A pin2? Switch closed means normal operation, switch open kills the dry and there's just the wet suitable for parallel loops...
Yes, that would be fine.
Question about the most recent PDF posted. That circuit diagram works correct? I was a little bit confused about whether that was a work in progress or if that was finished. I am looking to make this reverb unit and I really would like to use that circuit diagram within the most recently posted PDF.
Quote from: Wguitar on October 22, 2013, 10:48:31 AM
Question about the most recent PDF posted. That circuit diagram works correct? I was a little bit confused about whether that was a work in progress or if that was finished.
It is finished except for painting the box! Circuit/PCB are both proven.
Planning to build it with the FAT switch and instead of the one PT2399 having a set resistor value I'm going to vary both PT2399s, will allow for more variability of the sound and that's what I'm looking for. Thanks for the diagrams!
Merlin, I'd like to do this in smd but I'm having problems finding mmbfj112 or sst112 on :icon_twisted: bay.
Would J201 or J310 work in here?
Bumpity bump?
Anyone?
Man must not rely on ebay alone! :icon_wink:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/MMBFJ112/?qs=ljbEvF4DwOPc5qOoeoX%252bEQ==
Well I'd love nothing more than to be able to order from Mouser but over here in Yurp it costs an arm and a leg to get things from there...
Like it or not, :icon_twisted: bay is where I need to look most. Places like Banzai or Musikding are reachable but they have virtually no smd components.
When I'm faced with high shipping charges but still need items from a certain source, I put together an order for things that they stock at a good price, and things that aren't readily available from local suppliers.
This is truly the only way to offset the cost of shipping. Two SMD transistors ship for the same price as a semi small order of assorted items.
Very true. But as my stash grows, it's getting increasingly more difficult to offset $30 shipping cost. And if I get up to $100 to qualify for free shipping, my customs office is sure to have a field day with me.
So I either turn to ebay or look for substitutes. So, any other J's that would fit in here?
I didn't see any on ebay but...check the data sheet for MMBF5457 against the mmbfj112.
The 5457 is a general purpose JFET good for switching.
The J112 in the schematic is used as a switch.
I don't know if you can source the MMBF5457 in Europe.
I finally got around to packaging my Equinox II! (Jeez I'm slow...) Eventually I gave up on the idea of doing a 'professional' finish, and just painted the box with random acrylic colours. And like a fool I managed to write the word 'reverb' at the funny angle ::)
Anyway, I have created an official page for it, with all the files, here:
http://valvewizard.co.uk/equinox.html
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/57831278/reverb_pedal.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/57831278/reverb_pedal_guts.JPG)
Nice one, Merlin. I've worked up a perf layout (cos I enjoy the intellectual challenge!). I'll try to get time over the Crimbo break to build and verify. Or it might be Easter. Or ... :icon_biggrin:
Ok so someone is probably gonna slap me for this but since you guys know stuff at the drop of a hat I thought I'd ask before I read through all the pages of responses on this one.... the parts list shows C10 and C32 as NP (non polar) but the blue/black/pink layout clearly shows + symbol for each of those pieces...so who do I believe? The schematic doesn't quite clear it up for me either (though they are my weak point for sure).
Quote from: Canucker on February 17, 2014, 04:02:42 PM
Ok so someone is probably gonna slap me for this but since you guys know stuff at the drop of a hat I thought I'd ask before I read through all the pages of responses on this one.... the parts list shows C10 and C32 as NP (non polar) but the blue/black/pink layout clearly shows + symbol for each of those pieces...so who do I believe? The schematic doesn't quite clear it up for me either (though they are my weak point for sure).
If you've got NP caps around use them for the best results. If you're using electrolytic caps just pay attention to the schematic polarization.
I used both with the same results to my ears!
Thanks for the info. I'm actually getting no results. I was getting a faint signal in the on or off position and it sounded like there was some effect on it....then I checked everything over and found the solder for my LED was a bit sloppy...obvious place to look since the LED wasn't turning on.....fixed that up and the LED lights up like a Christmas Tree....but now I get no sound no matter what position I have anything....I'm thinking my on off switch is the obvious place to start....I really hadn't looked at this project since last summer when I made it, had no luck and moved on to other stuff quickly as I had a few projects on the go and the others all worked out fine. Thanks!
Many schematics will still show a '+' even if the capacitor is non-polar. If the author of the schematic specifically calls for NP, I'd use those, unless you know why not to. They might sound the same but they might not act the same.
Quote from: Canucker on February 18, 2014, 11:27:21 AM
Thanks for the info. I'm actually getting no results. I was getting a faint signal in the on or off position and it sounded like there was some effect on it....then I checked everything over and found the solder for my LED was a bit sloppy...obvious place to look since the LED wasn't turning on.....fixed that up and the LED lights up like a Christmas Tree....but now I get no sound no matter what position I have anything....I'm thinking my on off switch is the obvious place to start....I really hadn't looked at this project since last summer when I made it, had no luck and moved on to other stuff quickly as I had a few projects on the go and the others all worked out fine. Thanks!
I had the same problem with my switch and even after fixing that, there was a little sinal bleeding through that FET. I used a DPDT On/On foot switch that connects R9 to pin7 of TL072 and LED to +V at the same time... problem solved!
And I think garcho is right, better to use NP caps in this case.
^ very general rule: electrolytic caps are for DC (power supply), non-polar are for AC (audio signal).
Since the non-polar electro caps seemed to be a cause for confusion (why?) I removed them from the latest version by switching to 1uF caps. You can easily get those in plastic or ceramic:
http://valvewizard.co.uk/equinox.html
Greetings to all !
Just finished Equinox II, sounds great, works great, thanks @merlin :-)
I have two questions (Not problems) :
1. Should i lower voltage a bit, since i'm measuring 5.05V between pins 1 and 3 on PT2399, and i read somewhere on this thread that lover voltage keeps PT more stable(fixes possible bad behavior) ?
2. In equinoxII.PDF pot is labeled just 10K(linear probably), but in schematic on your website it says 10K log. Which one is correct? I'm using 10K linear
And some pictures:
Changed layout a little - nothing special just removed some ground pour and add more space between few traces and pads... A little easier for me to solder and not worrying to accidentally make some bridges ...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2zz3edbhkbkht7/1.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2zz3edbhkbkht7/1.jpg)
Not yet in a box (waiting for paint to dry)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4sd4ebkkt6x4bp9/2.jpg (https://www.dropbox.com/s/4sd4ebkkt6x4bp9/2.jpg)
Edit: i used [img] tag but obviously i'm doing something wrong, so pictures not showing, i added links to my dropbox
Quote from: deevar on April 05, 2014, 02:04:49 PM
1. Should i lower voltage a bit, since i'm measuring 5.05V between pins 1 and 3 on PT2399,
No, 5V is correct. The Equinox does not have the same latch-up problems as some short-delay designs.
Quote
2. In equinoxII.PDF pot is labeled just 10K(linear probably), but in schematic on your website it says 10K log. Which one is correct?
It doesn't matter. I used log in my last build, but the range of control seems to be just as usable with a linear pot.
OK thanks @merlin !
I have to say i like it a lot, already found favorite spot, somewhere around 1-2 o'clock..
well, I have been trying to make my equinox I work for more than 30 hours!
I have passed through all the phases described here (no sound at all, bypass/effect sound the same, etc)
1. Now it works except one little thing.
- when the fat switch is on, the reverb sounds perfectly.
when the fat switch is off, the reverb disappears and it actually sounds as if the pedal is bypassed!!
any ideas??
2. Is there a way to make it sound completely wet? How could I give more volume to the effect than to the actual signal?
Cheers!
Quote from: fatecasino on April 07, 2014, 01:55:56 AM
when the fat switch is off, the reverb disappears and it actually sounds as if the pedal is bypassed!![/li]
[li][/li]
[/list]
any ideas??
Sounds like you wired up something incorrectly. Can't really be more help than that :icon_redface:
Quote
2. Is there a way to make it sound completely wet? How could I give more volume to the effect than to the actual signal?
You can't get rid of the dra altogether unless you removed R4. I guess you could switch it out? You can, however, make the wet sound louder than the dry sound by reducing R5 (not less than 1k though). You might then need to reduce R6 to bring the overall volume down. The Equinox wasn't
really designed for that level of control.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/reverbschem.jpg
This might not be it, but worth checking. Make sure the switch is wired correctly as shown below. You found also remove the switch and use a temporary jumper to test the circuit.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/4CAFDB0E-34B2-4A0D-A3BA-FC5CF7ABC4C3.jpg)
QuoteYou can, however, make the wet sound louder than the dry sound by reducing R5 (not less than 1k though). You might then need to reduce R6 to bring the overall volume down. The Equinox wasn't really designed for that level of control.
I studied
Equinox II and I realized that this project was meant to be a one-knob-pedal. On the other hand, I busk around, so for me it's optimum if I can get the maximum out of just one or two pedals :))
I would like to have some really wet/atmospheric reverb, which will have the direct signal somehow lost in the effect. I reduced R5 to 1k and it is still more or less the same feel like before. Could you imagine a way to turn the direct signal volume even lower?
Thanks!!
Quote from: fatecasino on April 07, 2014, 09:09:13 PM
Could you imagine a way to turn the direct signal volume even lower?
Increase R4. If you remove it altogether (infinite ohms) it will turn off the dry signal altogether!
i have everything working right now :)
there is one strange thing though with the PT2399s.
If i turn off the pedal, then at restart i have no delays/echoes at all. To make it work I have to remove (with the power on) the PT2399s and place them back!
At the beginning I had only one PT2399 not sounding at the restart. Now they both have this strange problem, did I burn them somehow?
Any suggestions?
PS: the only not normal behaviour is that when the fat switch is off, I only hear the direct signal. Could it be something with the BC337?
I'd just like to say thanks for all your help and your fantastic designs Merlin. Now that I've built the Equinox II I'll soon be tackling the Engineer's Thumb. This has been a good week for me!
I'm not much good with aesthetics but here's what mine looks like:
(http://i1015.photobucket.com/albums/af272/tomw_aus/20140609_202230_zpsf7057c80.jpg)
You're a true gentleman.
Also for the record I agree with deevar, 1-2 o'clock is my favourite. Also I used two non-polarised 1uf caps in mine.
Cheers!
I wonder if this thread will revive? I've been on a 1590LB binge lately, here is the Equinox II, it sounds great! Thanks for a nice alternative to the Belden brick builds, with the added advantage of being able to fit it into a small box. The voltage regulator is epoxied to the lid. After completing it I realized I had used the wrong name :icon_redface: Sorry Merlin.
Face shot:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Equinox%20II/DSCN2400_zpsk5ygqn1s.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Equinox%20II/DSCN2398_zpszqsoaxse.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Equinox%20II/DSCN2396_zps5ypxb3xf.jpg)
And I thought that my solstice layout was small...
it wass even double-sided, but that is an amazing job!
I had this idea of making the solstice/reverb switch, something like parallel/series...
maybe someday.
Nice small pedal!
Thomas
Ah, the wonders of PhotoShop... ;) ;) ;)
(Hmm... "Cozybuilder". Not a coincidence, methinks!)
Quote from: Cozybuilder on February 27, 2015, 06:23:15 PM
I wonder if this thread will revive? I've been on a 1590LB binge lately, here is the Equinox II, it sounds great! Thanks for a nice alternative to the Belden brick builds, with the added advantage of being able to fit it into a small box. The voltage regulator is epoxied to the lid. After completing it I realized I had used the wrong name :icon_redface: Sorry Merlin.
Jesus, that's tiny! Mad skillz. Much respect.
Hello,
I have built the Equinox II and it has a real good reverb :) thank you merlin . I wanted to make the pedal as an 'always-on' reverb unit so thought about removing the jfet and its switching circuitry. And got into a doubt :-\. Should I also remove R9, C4, C5 as they seem to me, components for the Jfet switching? If one removes the jfet what else should one eliminate from the circuit? thank you
All you really have to remove is the JFet and then jumper the drain pad to the source pad. It will then be always on.
Quote from: sanjay dubey on April 08, 2015, 02:40:36 PM
If one removes the jfet what else should one eliminate from the circuit? thank you
As Groovenut said, you don't
have to remove anything except the JFET. But if you do, you can also remove the diode connected to the JFET, and everything else connected to that diode, if you want to. (D3, C30, R22, R23, D2)
http://valvewizard.co.uk/equinoxII.PDF
Dear forum
I built this circuit and I like it. So much I´d like to design an Eagle PCB for it. However, maybe someone else already drawn up the circuit and/or board in Eagle. I´d like to have this file in that case. I am planning to order a few PCB´s. Is anyone interested in a PCB? The more the cheaper! I´l try and fit it within 50x100mm (probably much less than 100mm so it will fit in a standard box)
2nd: Did somebody draw up an Eagle library for the PT2399? Would you share it with me?
Pls let me know
Dear forum
I think that the two 1uF decoupling capacitors can be shorted, because both PT2399 are at 2.5VDC. Any (other or supporting) opinions on that?
I am close to a layout, 50x70mm. No one is interested in a board? Probably some 5 EU/pc ex shipping.
Quote from: Beach on October 03, 2015, 01:32:11 PM
Dear forum
I think that the two 1uF decoupling capacitors can be shorted, because both PT2399 are at 2.5VDC. Any (other or supporting) opinions on that?
Yes, ac does not equal dc. The input and output of a non inverting op amp normally sit at the same dc level, this does not mean you can connect them. All the dc level tells you is that the average value is 2.5 volts ( vcc/2 ). It tells you nothing about what happens in the time domain. You need to know more about the internals of the ic to be sure you can connect them. Why would they break out two separate pins on the ic if they can be connected??
hello, i need a little help, i had a first version of equinox, and i want to use it in a parallel amp fx loop, how can i add a switch to remove the dry signal?
Given the schematic here
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/merlinblencowe/library/Equinox%20Reverb?sort=3&page=1
Disconnect one side of R4 to remove the dry signal
i tryed to do it, but i get no signal :(
problem solved, it was my amp fx loop, thx for help :)
when i put the reverb in my amp fx loop with drive on the sound gets distorted, is it normal? w clean sound no problem
I would guess that your loop is running at levels higher than guitar/pedalboard levels (which is what the pedal is expecting). So you might need to attenuate the loop (probably not a great idea), or put the Equinox between the guitar and amp.
yeah, i will try to put some attenuation in the loop, thx for help :)
I should have said that if the levels are mis-matched and you do attenuate the signal coming from the amp, you'll likely need to boost it back to a level the amp is expecting on the loop return.
hello friends, it is the first time i write in the forum about a problem, but the truth, no longer know how to fix, and i need your help.
I built version 2 of Equinox and the effect works, i can hear, but behind it there is an annoying noise increases as you turn the knob, i have reviewed all possible errors, like a bad solder, bridges between tracks, error component values, etc., but the truth is that everything is as it should, also review the sections of LPF and LFF but all this as shown in the diagram; i experimented with several PT2399 but i get the same result, also to make sure change the TL072, but nothing changes.
I have always this annoying background noise, i leave a sample video and photos of the pcb.
Check the voltages of the PT2399 but i didn't see nothing unusual, got voltages between 5 and 2.5 volts in the respective pin as usual, if you need more details of these let me know.
I've been already 3 days trying to make it sound as it should be but the truth is i don't know what the F...!!! is wrong!
As a last comment i inform you that i made a bridge in the JFET to test the pedal and this always on, but do not think this is the problem, since the "clean" signal sounds perfect, the problem is when the signal is incorporated with the effect
perhaps the picture is somewhat deceptive, but I assure you there are no bridges between tracks
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-945bYqkDZls/VjqpWzT3sXI/AAAAAAAACw0/F4lFx_02WKc/s1152-Ic42/1.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-HsMpSOMC0Rs/VjqpRUoLwsI/AAAAAAAACws/Wh1XhKN2Rms/s720-Ic42/2.jpg)
@animal
My first suggestion would be defective 2399 chips. I know you mentioned that you used several chips during testing however... problems with these chips is rampant and I have read no less than 10 different posts on different forums about them. Where did you buy them from?
On another note... I can appreciate the single finger salute that you gave the circuit in the end of your video. Been there myself many, many, many times :-\
It remembers me of the infinite repeats mode on a rebote delay,
the sound keeps repeating and increasing volume and in the end it sounds like this noise, but very loud.
To stop it I always need to reduce the repeats.
Considering this, I would look for bridges that would feedback the signal, and verify the circuit with an audio probe to look very this noise starts.
Also consider checking every capacitor going to ground around the pt2399, there are some pins of the PT2399 where the signal is very noisy and the bypass capacitors remove this kind of noise.
Or it could also be the pt2399 chip, but I bought all of mine from Tayda and never had a problem like this.
It's a long shot, but I had a similar problem. I was using a cheap 9v power supply to provide the 9v but had built my own filter to remove noise. I hadn't put a heat sink on the voltage regulator in the filter and subsequently it made the effect sound like crap. Couldn't work it out and then I tried a different power source. Voila!
Hey guys thanks for the answers
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on November 04, 2015, 10:26:37 PM
@animal
My first suggestion would be defective 2399 chips. I know you mentioned that you used several chips during testing however... problems with these chips is rampant and I have read no less than 10 different posts on different forums about them. Where did you buy them from?
On another note... I can appreciate the single finger salute that you gave the circuit in the end of your video. Been there myself many, many, many times :-\
I have a dealer who brings me the components (I'm from Chile), He told that he get it from "SmallBear" / ...and yeah... that middle finger is classic jejejeje :'(
Quote from: thomasha on November 05, 2015, 06:05:39 AM
It remembers me of the infinite repeats mode on a rebote delay,
the sound keeps repeating and increasing volume and in the end it sounds like this noise, but very loud.
To stop it I always need to reduce the repeats.
Considering this, I would look for bridges that would feedback the signal, and verify the circuit with an audio probe to look very this noise starts.
Also consider checking every capacitor going to ground around the pt2399, there are some pins of the PT2399 where the signal is very noisy and the bypass capacitors remove this kind of noise.
Or it could also be the pt2399 chip, but I bought all of mine from Tayda and never had a problem like this.
check if it had bridges, but found none. / check capacitors and everything is fine, i will change them all to make sure
Quote from: tommycataus on November 06, 2015, 01:30:02 AM
It's a long shot, but I had a similar problem. I was using a cheap 9v power supply to provide the 9v but had built my own filter to remove noise. I hadn't put a heat sink on the voltage regulator in the filter and subsequently it made the effect sound like crap. Couldn't work it out and then I tried a different power source. Voila!
I tried with two power supplies and battery, but the same result :o
Looks like the diode is disconnected from the circuit, i see an unsoldered pin on the bottom right ..
Man that soldering job is NASTY.. I think you should do it again, and get 1mm or thinner drill bits
Good news !!!
I solved the problem, for some reason one of the filter capacitors to ground at pin 7 of the section of the "long delay" was bad, i changed it and now sounds perfect. i don't know if was a bad luck ... but that small capacitor was the problem .....kill me please :'(
Quote from: dschwartz on November 07, 2015, 01:48:18 PM
Looks like the diode is disconnected from the circuit, i see an unsoldered pin on the bottom right ..
Man that soldering job is NASTY.. I think you should do it again, and get 1mm or thinner drill bits
This diode is disconnected because i made a bridge on the JFET for the effect is always active
and yeah ... i know that soldering it's sucks, but that's because i resoldering many times looking for the problem ... it's kind of pcb test so doesn't bother me it all ejejeej
may also be that the picture not favor much jejej
A lo chilensis: Si en la foto se ve entero penca pero es una prueba asi que no me intereso mucho que se viera bien sino que cumplieran con el objetivo
Saludos !!
Cheers guys !!
Good to know that it worked!
when I checked every pin with an audio probe there were some nasty noises.
@Animal
It is not about the looks..huge blobs of solder ussually are more trouble than an effective connection.. Probably the bad capacitor was due to overheating..always use a probe before resoldering to find exacly where the issue is, or thereabouts, then you reflow or check for broken connections or bad components..but adding blobs of soder ussually hide this imperfections..
I´ve just finished up mine!!
Sounds just like the others i heard from here!
cort viva gold >> noisy cricket amp (1/2 watt) >> handmade 1x12 cabinet with a v30 clone >> SM 57 >> Focusrite Scarlet 18i20 >> Sonar x3 (no filters, equalization or any kind of post production)
https://youtu.be/Q5vkB49cz-Q
https://youtu.be/K2i_sCdw0WY
Hope you like it.