Hey guys,
After some time i've managed to finish this project. It's based on Soldano GTO SUpercharger (the only thing that is like GTO - the main topology) - Some modes ware done. So this is it :)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/Pictures/301629_263923486972033_100000631514142_888995_268502664_n.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/Pictures/308831_263923403638708_100000631514142_888993_978534853_n.jpg)
Building instructions: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/Pictures/GTFO_Distortion.pdf (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/Pictures/GTFO_Distortion.pdf)
And sound clips: http://soundcloud.com/analog-sound/gtfo-and-amp (http://soundcloud.com/analog-sound/gtfo-and-amp)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Great sounding pedal! What is the power supply situation? Are you running the whole pedal in starved plate mode at 12 volts? Again, great sounding pedal! Thanks for sharing :icon_smile:
sounds nice n chunky...is that into a clean amp?.... :icon_cool:
gut shot?.. ;)
I spy Gabriel's take on the 555 nixie smps on the pdf, so this is high voltage. Very nice.
Thank you for your feedback guys! The PSU is a 555 Nixie SMPS with some additions - i will post an update ASAP. The anode voltage is 400V and the heaters are running in 12v mode for 12AX7. I will also post some guts pictures tonight. The upgrated version (it will be the samme tone matters) will have a SMPS with an ATMEL controller and variable duty cyrcle - this version use a hack for 555 to be used as PWM controller (you can google 555 pwm and at the pictures tab you will find the schematics).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: The recording was made using the clean channel of a Reason amp and a 1x12" Celestion V30 cab and a SM57 - nothing fancy.
That does sound good. Impressed
are some of the pots missing values? and there is a 1m between pot 2 and ground? I am not very familiar with soldano stuff ( but I would like to be ) so sorry for the ignorance. :icon_redface: I love the 39k cold clipper.
Quote from: zambo on September 25, 2011, 12:27:21 PM
are some of the pots missing values? and there is a 1m between pot 2 and ground? I am not very familiar with soldano stuff ( but I would like to be ) so sorry for the ignorance. :icon_redface: I love the 39k cold clipper.
Bahhh.... $$#@$ indeed i will post an update later.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
QuoteBahhh.... $$#@$ indeed i will post an update later.
Very nice! Not to be too pushy, but can you include a schematic for the pwm PS?
(I've been acquiring the parts to build 555-based power suppplies. Also have the tubes/sockets - I definitely want to build this!)
Quote from: waltk on September 25, 2011, 01:27:51 PM
QuoteBahhh.... $$#@$ indeed i will post an update later.
Very nice! Not to be too pushy, but can you include a schematic for the pwm PS?
(I've been acquiring the parts to build 555-based power suppplies. Also have the tubes/sockets - I definitely want to build this!)
There there :) this is the main way to use a 555 like a PWM controller. You can also use a uC as a PWM controller ;) i will do that in the near future.
(http://www.sentex.net/~mec1995/circ/pwm555.gif)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: I will not have the time to make correction on scematic but i will post the values here:
- POT1 - 1M Log - i used 500k as i found it more usefull on the range
- POT2 - 500k - or you can replace it with a 470k rezistor and the grid will take signal from the juction of the 470k rezistor and 1M rezistor
- C1 and C2 ajust them by taste - 1u with 680n or 1u with 1u - just a matter of taste
- if you find it too bright you can decouple R6 with a 470p/600v
And that is about it :)
The PDF linked to at the top looks kind of fishy. The the layout and PCB images all have stripes - very difficult to make out what is there, and the PCB images are not usable. Is anyone else having this problem?
Quote from: waltk on October 02, 2011, 06:27:15 PM
The PDF linked to at the top looks kind of fishy. The the layout and PCB images all have stripes - very difficult to make out what is there, and the PCB images are not usable. Is anyone else having this problem?
yep, me too.
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 02, 2011, 06:54:08 PM
Quote from: waltk on October 02, 2011, 06:27:15 PM
The PDF linked to at the top looks kind of fishy. The the layout and PCB images all have stripes - very difficult to make out what is there, and the PCB images are not usable. Is anyone else having this problem?
yep, me too.
Sorry for this guys... my EAGLE is acting strange...i will export another PCB and schematic with the last modifications and i will post it again here. Sorry for this.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Ok... had some problems with this little p.o.s but i've managed to solve them - so now i can have a solid copper pour no matter what. I've used a ULP from cadsoft site that would export PCB and SCH (visible layers or not) to a SVG file ... and that was the solution.
I'll give you guys the SVG files as it's easyer to work with them (i use Inkscape and i can export them in any format - pdf, bmp etc.)
Links:
PCB: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_PCB.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_PCB.svg)
Layout: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_TOP.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_TOP.svg)
Schematic: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_SCH.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_SCH.svg)
SMPS Schematic: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_SMPS.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_SMPS.svg)
ULP file: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/eagle2svg-1.2.ulp (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/eagle2svg-1.2.ulp)
You get all the info how to use it if you look inside ULP - the only thing you should do is to copy in ULP dir. from you Eagle installation.
Hope now is better :) and i'm waiting for someone to build it :)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hello guys,
With the help of our colleague Walt (thank you for your help) - he made a pdf with this project and i have added some text to it. This is the link http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: you can post it on any site/blog you like; posting is not forbiden.
This is a video made by a friend of mine (is in Romanian but the thing that is important is the sound so...), you will see that he use 3 different guitars. Enjoy!
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
There appears to be a small error on the PCB layout in the most recent PDF. R25 is shorted by a trace under it.
The schematic is also a bit confusing. Based on the layout it seems that the power supply connects to the circuit at the junction of R24 and R25 and that the output of the PS is from the junction of R22 and C11. It might not hurt to clarify this on the schematic.
(http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/2990/cimg0815x.jpg)
I use ac heater sound better than dc heater. any idea to get more gain
AC heaters sounds different from DC?!?!.... strange, i didn't notice that. What schematic did you use? One way to boost up the gain is to modify the interstage attenuation networks.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
any chance for a sound sample on bass? Also, how/what do I adjust pot 5 to on the PS?
Thanks! I will build this sometime this winter once the snow flies and the motorcycles are put away :)
QuoteI use ac heater sound better than dc heater. any idea to get more gain
I'd love to hear samples of that one.
Quote from: defaced on October 18, 2011, 09:16:27 AM
QuoteI use ac heater sound better than dc heater. any idea to get more gain
I'd love to hear samples of that one.
quick sound sample.http://soundcloud.com/circuitfx (http://soundcloud.com/circuitfx)
start with ac heater then dc heater you may say it not different,try with yourself with tube amp.
Quote from: runmikeyrun on October 17, 2011, 07:24:08 PM
any chance for a sound sample on bass? Also, how/what do I adjust pot 5 to on the PS?
Thanks! I will build this sometime this winter once the snow flies and the motorcycles are put away :)
for adjustment, i adjust pot about 200v. to get fuller sound but lessdist, if lower than 180v. sound thin but more bass and dist.
cheer.
Well the only difference that i hear is a little more HUM on AC ... don't wanna start a flame regarding this, but IMHO i don't hear any difference. And yes, the trimmer is for voltage output, i can go from 100v to 320V without a problem.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
That design is sort of simular to the 2 Channel amp I just built ......
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/mr_sevs/UG-TubePre.jpg)
Mines a 2 channel amp , with relay channel switching , it uses two 12ax7 per channel and runs off a 300VDC CRCLCRC PSU and 12.6v AC heaters , It also has an FX loop and a 60w into 4 ohms LM3886 power amp ...... everything is made from home etched PCB"s using my own layouts and designs .....
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/mr_sevs/Picture001.jpg)
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/mr_sevs/Picture002.jpg)
Sounds great ........
Cheers
I use 250v. ps cap,that why i adjust trimpot 200v.
here my old sloclone 50w. build it for 5 year ago that i play with GTO
(http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/3186/head50l.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/405/head50l.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Regards.
Another clip recorded by a friend of mine, this time a little bit more on the metal side.
Enjoy!
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
^ nice demo....sounds cool detuned too. \m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
out of curiosity what is the tone control on that?....
edit: scrap that i see the schemo!.. ;)
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 26, 2011, 03:48:59 AM
^ nice demo....sounds cool detuned too. \m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
out of curiosity what is the tone control on that?....
edit: scrap that i see the schemo!.. ;)
Thank you, :D you have all the details in the PDF document.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
:icon_cool:
And a last video regagarding GTFO - Analog Sound GTFO vs. Blackstar Dual HT made by the same friend
I would like to hear some opinions.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
nice..
i like your GTFO better, has more depth...the HT seems a bit cleaner and lighter on the dirt....just my 2p... :icon_twisted:
+1 on the GTFO. sounds a lot better to me.
yep , the GTFO sounds warmer to my ears also ....very cool man !!!
I converted the svg files to pdfs, if anyone wants.
http://www.mediafire.com/?qz3kybxy2ye32gx
http://www.mediafire.com/?6cv97k97whcdj5t
Hello guys!
I'm pretty new,and I'm confused with something. An original supercharger runs at 320V,but somebody here said that he sets the voltage from the SMPS to 180~200V,isn't that a bit too low?
If I make this SMPS,can i get 320V out of it?
One more thing,in the instruction pdf it says 12V DC operation,but the SMPS works at 18V?
Hey vasso123 - with this smps you can have 350-400v with a 12v DC input, the voltage on the tubes anode is about 160-180v. This schematic is not a GTO clone, is related with GTO only by the fact that has 4 gain stages ... but not the same filtering. So you can build the pedal according to the documentation - oyu have also a video recording to see how it's sounds.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
So I can make the supercharger with this SMPS? I showed my professor this SMPS and he said that's something fishy around this schematic,so can somebody confirm that the schematic from the instruction pdf is valid?
And can somebody explain how does it work?
Thanks :)
Quote from: vasso123 on November 24, 2011, 03:09:52 PM
So I can make the supercharger with this SMPS? I showed my professor this SMPS and he said that's something fishy around this schematic,so can somebody confirm that the schematic from the instruction pdf is valid?
And can somebody explain how does it work?
Thanks :)
Only way is to test it yourself , it's a just a SMPS basically .
You think most professors would think it's okay ? No .
This sort of SMPS's are kind of CHEATING .
Okeeeeeey,but can you explain me how does it work? ???
Quote from: vasso123 on November 24, 2011, 03:53:43 PM
Okeeeeeey,but can you explain me how does it work? ???
It would be quite hard to completely explain , but what most SMPS's(AC) is to rectify the signal first , then chop it up , then followed by transformer then rectification .
Hey Vasso: http://spiffie.org/electronics/archives/hardware/555%20based%20SMPS.html - it's a small explanation - i can assure you that it's nothing fishy, as this SMPS is used also by many builders.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Here says it uses an inductor,and that's what confused me,because on the place of the inductor on schematic is an electrolitic capacitor labeled L1,that should be corrected in schematic,and what is the value of the inductor?
Quote from: vasso123 on November 25, 2011, 05:25:45 AM
Here says it uses an inductor,and that's what confused me,because on the place of the inductor on schematic is an electrolitic capacitor labeled L1,that should be corrected in schematic,and what is the value of the inductor?
100uH inductor .
( mind you , pick at least 1/2W )
Sorry for that little "mistake" the capacitor there was put only to use the pcb-footprint (i was too lazy to make a new component) - the value of the inductor is 100uH.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Yesssss! i was looking for this real tube highgain!
By the Way can i ask about the component list? like how much volts for capacitor. . . :D also PSU pot value?
Thanks
Quote from: askwho69 on November 25, 2011, 10:11:34 AM
Yesssss! i was looking for this real tube highgain!
By the Way can i ask about the component list? like how much volts for capacitor. . . :D also PSU pot value?
Thanks
I believe the caps should be at least 250v ... for certain caps
The capacitors that are used in HV should be at least 350-400v if you would like to go with HV over 300v. The coupling caps form tubes anode should be also over 200v (250v is more then fine).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: askwho69 on November 25, 2011, 10:11:34 AM
Yesssss! i was looking for this real tube highgain!
By the Way can i ask about the component list? like how much volts for capacitor. . . :D also PSU pot value?
Thanks
Personally, I would keep all of my components in the SMPS a bit beefier than normal. There is a lot going on there.
Yes you could do that, but i preffer to have the command device (in this particular case 555) as close as possible to the FET's gate, and the box is only 1590BB :) it's been more then a month since the pedal was @ testing, including live performance, and every thing was excellent in all the aspects.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: jcgss77 on November 25, 2011, 08:26:30 PM
Personally, I would keep all of my components in the SMPS a bit beefier than normal. There is a lot going on there.
My lastest GTOclone.The original schematic, only changes the output with soldano tone stack by replace Tre-Bass pot (Type-A) with R value for each pot at center position and I left Middle (Tone) pot for adjustment.
cheer.
Which value should i take for the potentiometer POT5 in the SMPS?
1-2k ... i used 5k and it was ok ... so is not a critical value for that pot :)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: vasso123 on January 06, 2012, 10:22:10 AM
Which value should i take for the potentiometer POT5 in the SMPS?
Can somebody tell me cca which current goes through the inductor, I need to make it so i need to know the current,thanks :)
A 2-3A inductor would be excellent and it will be on the safe side.
Best regards,
Gabnriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
> That design is sort of simular to the 2 Channel amp I just built ......
All low-level tube guitar stages are variations on basic tube stages. Often the values are taken from older Fenders. Yes, they are all "similar". Yes, small changes in tone/gain networks can give significant musical differences (why some folks bought Soldanos instead of Fenders).
> original supercharger runs at 320V, but
Tube amps are not terribly fussy about supply voltage. Anode/plate voltage tends to be 1/3rd-2/3rd of total supply voltage, and this proportion does not vary much from 150V to 400V. Large signals and low supply voltage increase distortion, but that's fine for our purposes; and the amount of distortion can be changed with gain pots or interstage resistor ratios.
> this SMPS ... can you explain me how does it work?
Your friend is 300 feet up a radio tower. He needs a wrench.
Instead of climbing the tower, you decide to fling the wrench up 300 feet to him.
You have a hook 12 feet up, and a selection of springs.
Say the wrench is 6 ounces. If you want to put 6 ounces 300 feet up, you have to give a much larger push within your 12 foot starting zone.
300'*6oz = 1,800 foot-ounce initial push.
12 foot hook: 1,800/12= 150 ounce force on spring.
So you need a spring which will take 150 ounce pull at 12 foot stretch.
In theory.
We are practical men. We know there is drag everywhere. Our "6 ounces at 300 feet" is likely to stop short, 250 feet or less. We can increase the starting push to cover the drag. If we like to think hard, we might compute the drag. Being practical and lazy, we just over-size the spring for maybe 450 feet in theory, over 300 feet with drag, then adjust our pull to get the desired 300 feet.
450'*6oz = 2,700 foot-ounce initial push.
12 foot hook: 1,800/12= 225 ounce force on spring.
A SMPS with step-up voltage works the same. A transistor pulls-down a coil with high current. Then it lets-go. The coil flies-back to some higher voltage at lower current.
> 100uH inductor .( mind you , pick at least 1/2W )
I don't think inductors have watts??
> which current goes through the inductor
Same logic as working out the tool-fling spring.
First you need to know the tube current. Most of the tubes are fed from 300V through a 100K plate resistor. If the tube were a short, the current is 300V/100K= 3mA per stage. But if the tube were a short nothing good would happen. We want a fair fight between the tube and the resistor. Roughly half of 300V on each. 150V/100K is 1.5mA per stage. The first stage has a 220K, and there is a 470K bleeder, no other DC path from B+... there's roughly 6mA of load.
Which is why I picked a 6 ounce tool flung from 12' to 300'.
The numbers come out the same.
In Theory, the coil must be "pulled" to 150 mA.
A little more, because we can't pull all the time.
Some more to cover "drag". The transistor loses some of our 12 Volts. The coil core is "friction" and just like 300 feet of air-drag, a 12V:300V or 1:25 conversion runs into a lot of drag.
I think the peak current swing may be <=225mA. However we don't want the current to saturate (the transistor would burn). We want lots of safety margin. Not a huge amount or core losses increase. However core-loss in modern HF coils is quite small, and we do not need an "optimum" design. (Heater power is much greater than plate power, so a little loss in the plate supply does not make much difference in overall consumption.) Gabriel says 2A coils work fine and that seems reasonable to me.
Hi! Thanks for sharing this project. Just one question... for now :D.. what is the power consumption for 12V DC supply? Oh, and there's another. Could you tell a bit more about using uC in SMPS? I can't catch the point of that :icon_neutral:
Hey Lespos,
I sale the GTFO with 12v DC PSU @1.2A - 1.5A and everyting is fine (i don't reccomend using a SMPS 12V PSU - i use one for testing and ... there is some noise).
Regarding the uC in a SMPS it's simple: i would like to generate the PWM using the uC - the advantage is that i can modify the freq. and the duty cycle and doing that i hope that i can optimise the SMPS - it's just an experiment that i will do when i will have some time :D - also the frq. will not depend by RC networks and you will have a smaller number of parts.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
LE: As always PRR's examples are excellent - if you can't understand from his explanations ..then you can't understand from nobody :) Thank you again for your intervention.
Quote from: lespos on January 24, 2012, 02:25:49 AM
Hi! Thanks for sharing this project. Just one question... for now :D.. what is the power consumption for 12V DC supply? Oh, and there's another. Could you tell a bit more about using uC in SMPS? I can't catch the point of that :icon_neutral:
I did a simulation of this boost converter in LTspice IV,and i would like to know why are there spikes in the current of the input voltage source. I know its common for all boost converters and that it has to do something with the inductor and MOSFET. I'm doing this as a project(I'm a student) so i need to know,thanks
> why are there spikes in the current of the input voltage source.
> I'm a student
Have you studied how an up-converter works?
Did you read my tool-flinger analogy?
If you were flinging lots of tools as fast as possible, the 12' hook would have a 150 ounce stress 96% of the time, a zero stress 4% of the time.
If, on top of this 96:4 rectangle, you have "narrow" spikes, that's side-effects of FET/coil action, similar to the way a real fling-spring would jiggle just after each fling. The fling-arm must be well braced; likewise the up-converter MUST have a large fast cap on its power rail to steady it.
fantastic analogy !
you should get paid for your services here . seriously thanks for all your work and effort .
are you a robot ?
Has anybody built this yet? I have the board etched and I am still in the process of collecting the parts, I have most of them already except for the caps... Any gut shots would be greatly appreciated!!!
I'm also in the process of building this GREAT project. Finally a tube
pedal with a HV SMPS power supply rather than a McTube or EH and their bulky transformers set up on reverse etc. Can't wait to finish this build. Thanks again!!
reall nice :icon_eek:
I will try to post some pictures tomorow, with the prototype. The PCB also changed a little (more optimized for the space - i will also post it.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 27, 2012, 10:44:56 PM
Has anybody built this yet? I have the board etched and I am still in the process of collecting the parts, I have most of them already except for the caps... Any gut shots would be greatly appreciated!!!
In regard to the caps, which ones are the High Voltage caps? As far as I can see it is the PS caps (C8-11) and the tube Coupling caps (C3-6). Are there any other HV caps? C12-13 maybe?
Thanks so much!!
Quote from: Mtmattan on January 29, 2012, 02:39:17 PM
In regard to the caps, which ones are the High Voltage caps? As far as I can see it is the PS caps (C8-11) and the tube Coupling caps (C3-6). Are there any other HV caps? C12-13 maybe?
Thanks so much!!
+1... I think I pretty much have it figure out but a clear listing of the recommended voltages would be nice! I also have 1/2 watt resistors for all, is that overkill? I also noticed from the diagram that some of the resistors look like jumpers but on the schematic they are actually resistors? There are a few other mistakes as well but don't get me wrong, I'm not bitchin! Thanks for this kick ass pedal and I hope I can get it working!!
Hello guys,
Thank you a lot for your positive feedback. I've worked a little more on the layout. For this layout i've used this model of tube sokets: http://www.banzaimusic.com/Tube-Socket-Noval-PC-PMV.html (http://www.banzaimusic.com/Tube-Socket-Noval-PC-PMV.html)
The schematic is the samme regarding the signal path, but in addition to this, i've made some mods on the supply path: added 2 resistors and 2 HV caps (10uF each) to have seppartaed HV supply for each triode.
The PDF with the details: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf)
BOM with voltage ratings: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/bom.txt (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/bom.txt)
The PCB ready for print: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO-PCB.pdf (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO-PCB.pdf)
All used resistors are 1/4w no exceptions, regarding jumpers - can you show me where did you saw them? In this version there are no jumpers on the board :D
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Perhaps I'm dense today, but is the high voltage output at the junction of R22 and C11?
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/555PSU.jpg)
CHAD
:D :D ;D Right on the spot - the HV output is on on junction of R22 and C11
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: seedlings on January 30, 2012, 12:58:58 PM
Perhaps I'm dense today, but is the high voltage output at the junction of R22 and C11?
(http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb54/seedlings/555PSU.jpg)
CHAD
You show L1 as a capacitor - better change that to an inductor of 100 microhenries rather than a capacitor of 100 microfarads. Do you have a value for pot 5? And the arrow on the pot indicates clockwise movement. Clockwise reduces the output voltage in this case as shown - you might want to change that.
Quote from: amptramp on January 30, 2012, 03:07:28 PM
You show L1 as a capacitor - better change that to an inductor of 100 microhenries rather than a capacitor of 100 microfarads. Do you have a value for pot 5? And the arrow on the pot indicates clockwise movement. Clockwise reduces the output voltage in this case as shown - you might want to change that.
I think somebody pointed out the "cap\inductor" mixup a few pages back... I also think he said that anything from 2k to 5k would work for the pot..?
Yap, it was, if i remember well, a post of mine back few pages. The cap was put it there only for the PCB foot print (i'm a little too lazy :D and the trim-pot could be anything between 1k and 5k - the trimmer controls the CV of the 555 timer - the HV variation is acheeved by FRQ. variation - IIRW bigger FREQ. smaller HV output, smaller FREQ. bigger HV output (hope i'm not mistaken).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Ideal values for the lower side of POT5:
300V - 0.44K
250V - 0.53K
200V - 0.66K
150V - 0.88K
100V - 1.32K
It may be close-enough to just pick a voltage goal and use an appropriate fixed resistor. The tube doesn't care if it comes out 230V or 260V.
I do not know if real parts will kick-up as high as 300V.
Unless you need under 133V, a 1K pot is ample and won't be as fussy to adjust.
Keep T1 away from strong heat. The output voltage will drop as T1 gets hot. With T1 at ambient, "250V" will wander from 254V on a hot summer stage to 245V at a winter concert. That hardly matters, but lean T1 against a tube or power resistor and it could drop from 250 to 210. Even that is no big deal except if you take voltage readings and switch off/on a lot it will drive you crazy.
> the trimmer controls the CV of the 555
Actually the trimmer directly controls the base voltage of Q1, which yanks the CV.
T1 will shift from full-off to full-on in a narrow range around 0.6V.
So if all is well, T1 base will be very near 0.6V, and you can predict divider (220K+pot) ratio from 0.6V against desired output.
Ok... so it's true ... PRR is not human - how the heck did you predict the voltages so accurate?! Jesus... Thank you again for taking time to post on this topic.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
(http://home.earthlink.net/~tubegeek/images/555SMPS.jpg)
Here is a modified version of the 555 SMPS schematic which addresses some questions people had.
I am considering building this on the protoboard and trying it out.
Hi , I am wanting to build this curcuit but I have a few questions/clarifications on the project .....
Firstly I can"t seem to find the dimentions of the PCB layout , in inches or centimeters is fine .......
The mosfet , will any 400v+ mosfet work ??
I have some toshiba TO-247 2sk2698 that are 500v , will they work ??
Thanx a lot !!!
QuoteThe mosfet , will any 400v+ mosfet work ??
No. Other MOSFETs will work with reduced efficiency, or not at all. The critical parameter is the "on" resistance of the MOSFET - it should be <= 0.5 ohm. Source: Mick Bailey on page 2 of this thread - http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74088.20 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74088.20)
I found this to be true in practice when I tried a different MOSFET that otherwise should have worked.
Quote from: waltk on January 31, 2012, 07:43:45 PM
QuoteThe mosfet , will any 400v+ mosfet work ??
No. Other MOSFETs will work with reduced efficiency, or not at all. The critical parameter is the "on" resistance of the MOSFET - it should be <= 0.5 ohm. Source: Mick Bailey on page 2 of this thread - http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74088.20 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=74088.20)
I found this to be true in practice when I tried a different MOSFET that otherwise should have worked.
Thanx , I just read that post and it says that the on resistance has to be 0.5 ohms or lower or the voltage with sag and the PSU will loose effeciency ......
In that case my Toshiba 2sk2698 Will work well in this case as it has a on resistance of 0.35 ohms .....
Thanx
For the L1, The 100uH inductor...this spec means it needs to be a 2-3A inductor?
I am pretty sure I have the right ones in mind but just making sure.
Quote from: guitarrob on January 31, 2012, 09:33:25 PM
For the L1, The 100uH inductor...this spec means it needs to be a 2-3A inductor?
I am pretty sure I have the right ones in mind but just making sure.
inductor current about 2.1A. here is link for detail that i use.
http://www.es.co.th/detail.asp?Prod=63800017
there are some point for trim adjustment, you may get HUM if adjust voltage too hight.
just decrease it lower until HUM is gone. :icon_lol:
The PCB in the documents is ready to be printed - no scale, just print it :) , but FYI the size is: 83.19 wide by 74.6 high (size is in mm).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: Minion on January 31, 2012, 07:30:12 PM
Hi , I am wanting to build this curcuit but I have a few questions/clarifications on the project .....
Firstly I can"t seem to find the dimentions of the PCB layout , in inches or centimeters is fine .......
The mosfet , will any 400v+ mosfet work ??
I have some toshiba TO-247 2sk2698 that are 500v , will they work ??
Thanx a lot !!!
Is it right?!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/aS2SCWdltf4_zEhSflFRq0n0pJGYGJvvtcaRUfQWD1BZ06L7imidKp1pbdHtkSOJUpL0EI1jURUEw3quWxsbifk_9XiMqausLmE=w1600)
Thank you lespos for your correction.... hmmm that was strange as hell...
Here is the link with the SVG file (i've used SVG bc in PDF format the groundplane appears as horizontal stripes): http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_ok.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_ok.svg)
Do not hesitate to put out anymistake that you find.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: lespos on February 01, 2012, 09:35:29 AM
Is it right?!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/aS2SCWdltf4_zEhSflFRq0n0pJGYGJvvtcaRUfQWD1BZ06L7imidKp1pbdHtkSOJUpL0EI1jURUEw3quWxsbifk_9XiMqausLmE=w1600)
Could you use a Toroidal-Inductor for the Boost converter or is it better to use a different type?
I don't think so, i'm using only rod type inductors.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: guitarrob on February 01, 2012, 11:13:28 AM
Could you use a Toroidal-Inductor for the Boost converter or is it better to use a different type?
Quote from: gtudoran on February 01, 2012, 01:19:44 PM
I don't think so, i'm using only rod type inductors.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Could you give me an example of the unit you are suggesting to use?
I appreciate your time.
No problem,
Here is one: http://uk.farnell.com/productimages/farnell/standard/42423153.jpg (http://uk.farnell.com/productimages/farnell/standard/42423153.jpg)
Another one: http://media.digikey.com/photos/TDK%20Photos/SL1215-101K1R5-PF.JPG (http://media.digikey.com/photos/TDK%20Photos/SL1215-101K1R5-PF.JPG)
SMD version: http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Sumida/Web%20photos/CDRH127%20SERIES.jpg (http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Sumida/Web%20photos/CDRH127%20SERIES.jpg)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: guitarrob on February 01, 2012, 02:01:06 PM
Quote from: gtudoran on February 01, 2012, 01:19:44 PM
I don't think so, i'm using only rod type inductors.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Could you give me an example of the unit you are suggesting to use?
I appreciate your time.
Thanks for the links.
gtudoran (Gabriel )
Did you order your caps from Digikey? I am having a hell-o-va time sourcing all the caps for this thing... You wouldn't happen to have the digikey part numbers or the link to the website that you got them from... I am talking about the HV caps of course... Sorry to be a pain in the ass but I really want to build this mutha! :icon_smile:
Thanks,
~Jim
Hey Jim,
The caps ar bought from a local store from Romania, i'm afraid i can't help you there.
Here is the last GTFO with a custom artwork:
(http://i.imgur.com/QfjDB.jpg) (http://imgur.com/QfjDB)
(http://i.imgur.com/TG0bc.jpg) (http://imgur.com/TG0bc)
(http://i.imgur.com/1xrJq.jpg) (http://imgur.com/1xrJq)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 01, 2012, 11:22:09 PM
gtudoran (Gabriel )
Did you order your caps from Digikey? I am having a hell-o-va time sourcing all the caps for this thing... You wouldn't happen to have the digikey part numbers or the link to the website that you got them from... I am talking about the HV caps of course... Sorry to be a pain in the ass but I really want to build this mutha! :icon_smile:
Thanks,
~Jim
Did you put some LED's by the tube for that Blue glow?
Hi , I etched my board and I drilled the holes and then went to install some components and realized that the Layout that shows the parts placement does not match up with the PCB ........ The traces and parts placements in the PSU don"t match up and also in other places ......
I"m using the layout and pcb from post #66 ....... Is there an updated layout ??
Thanx
Hello Minion,
Ahhhh %#$%#, you have missed the post #83 ( http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_ok.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_ok.svg) ) this is the last PCB for GTFO (i've made a mistake: i've overwritten the general instruction PDF but i didn't erase the PCB PDF) i think that it will be the best practive to redo the PCB or you can use the schematic to populate the board it will be a little bit more complicated but you will not loose it :icon_cry: :icon_cry: really sorry for this mistake. I will also modify the #66 post to have all the latest data.
UPDATE! USE THIS! DO NOT USE POST No. 66:
General Instructions: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf)
Bom: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/bom.txt (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/bom.txt)
PCB SVGfile: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_new.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_new.svg)
Thank you again for pointing that mistake, 1000x excuses for this.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: @guitarrob - yes there are 2 x superbright blue leds under the tubes :D just for design :D
Quote from: Minion on February 03, 2012, 10:10:11 PM
Hi , I etched my board and I drilled the holes and then went to install some components and realized that the Layout that shows the parts placement does not match up with the PCB ........ The traces and parts placements in the PSU don"t match up and also in other places ......
I"m using the layout and pcb from post #66 ....... Is there an updated layout ??
Thanx
Well, whenever my caps come in from Futurlec I will build this thing... I will probably have to re-order them from another company since after I ordered from Futurlec I read the reviews and almost everybody was unhappy with their service... Orders never filled, months to get parts, wrong parts etc... :icon_cry:
Power supply explanation:
http://www.dos4ever.com/flyback/flyback.html
Abour 1/3rd of the way down is the "same" circuit used by Gabriel, but the divider trimmer implemented as 1K+470 so the trim covers 90V-280V (Gabriel's simple 5K trim covers 26V to "infinity").
Also a good justification for using a "dumb" 555 instead of one of the many-many dedicated controllers.
Still waiting for caps ::) I guess no gut shots huh, anybody build one yet?
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 11, 2012, 10:27:30 AM
Still waiting for caps ::) I guess no gut shots huh, anybody build one yet?
I am waiting for components also but I am building a few different designs, this design is at the top of my list though.
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 11, 2012, 10:27:30 AM
Still waiting for caps ::) I guess no gut shots huh, anybody build one yet?
Good luck with that , I for the life of my can not find caps that have a small enough footprint that will accomodate the PCB , I also found that my eyesight isn"t good enough to properly solder components on this PCB ...... All those Verticle resistors and the traces so close to each other just made it too difficult of a PCB for me to work with ....... I ended up just redesigning the whole PCB to allow for bigger foorprint caps and for more space between the traces and to allow for the resistors to lay flat , and too alow for terminal blocks and pots closer to the edge of the board ......
Cheers
Hey Jim, hope that i can do some pictures today - but the only unit that i have is the V1 (but that would not pe a problem i hope).
Regarding the small foot -print of the PCB - that was the whole thing about ths design to fit in a 1590BB type enclosure - ofcourse that you cand make it a little bigger as you have some space to spare inside the box :D.... speaking about seeing - last week i'be broke my glasses... $#@$@#$^%^ c'est la guerre
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 11, 2012, 10:27:30 AM
Still waiting for caps ::) I guess no gut shots huh, anybody build one yet?
Quote from: Minion on February 11, 2012, 03:03:07 PM
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 11, 2012, 10:27:30 AM
Still waiting for caps ::) I guess no gut shots huh, anybody build one yet?
Good luck with that , I for the life of my can not find caps that have a small enough footprint that will accomodate the PCB , I also found that my eyesight isn"t good enough to properly solder components on this PCB ...... All those Verticle resistors and the traces so close to each other just made it too difficult of a PCB for me to work with ....... I ended up just redesigning the whole PCB to allow for bigger foorprint caps and for more space between the traces and to allow for the resistors to lay flat , and too alow for terminal blocks and pots closer to the edge of the board ......
Cheers
I found these, I believe they will work.. They look like they should fit the small board size? They have the 250v kit with 35 caps and the 650v kit also...
http://www.smallbearelec.com/Categories.bok?category=Capacitors%2C+Topmay+High+Voltage+Poly+Film
The rest like the electrolytics I will try to find at Digikey, shouldn't be hard to find.
Tired of waiting for Futurelec.com so I am doing a full re-order!
Quote from: gtudoran on February 12, 2012, 04:40:10 AM
Hey Jim, hope that i can do some pictures today - but the only unit that i have is the V1 (but that would not pe a problem i hope).
Regarding the small foot -print of the PCB - that was the whole thing about ths design to fit in a 1590BB type enclosure - ofcourse that you cand make it a little bigger as you have some space to spare inside the box :D.... speaking about seeing - last week i'be broke my glasses... $#@$@#$^%^ c'est la guerre
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 11, 2012, 10:27:30 AM
Still waiting for caps ::) I guess no gut shots huh, anybody build one yet?
Gabriel - no worries... I looked at some of your other pedals and noticed that you put a cab simulator in some of them.. This would probably be great running direct with either hardware or software cab sims.. Have you tried running direct yet?
Not yet but that would be a good ideea... the only drawback would be the level of signal that enter in the cabsim, but it's possible to attenuate it so that would not be a problem afterall.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
ok, I ordered all the caps today from Digikey, they should be here Tues or Wed of next week... I don't know why I didn't order form them to begin with, stupid move on my part! I would already be jammin with this thing :icon_evil: Came to about $42.00 but I ordered enough to build 6 of them... I have all the other parts so as soon as these get here I will build it immediately!
Gabriel, is the schematic and layout on your very first post good? That is the board that I etched and half way populated... I would like to keep going with this one if it works. I have all the parts now. :icon_mrgreen:
edit: The pdf that I made the board from says last modified on 1/8/2012 by Gabi Tudoran
Hey Jim, yes, there schematic, layout and all the instructions are good to go, there other versions have smaller socket footprint and some parts are mounted on vertical. In the first PCB / Schamatic version you will have also a split in the HV branch made with 2 HV electrolityc caps and 2 resistors, if you don't have the space to mount the 4 parts, you can skip them without a problem (take a look on the schematic) and that is all :). As a way to go, i recommand you to first buid the SMPS and see that everything goes smooth and clear :).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 21, 2012, 08:32:17 PM
Gabriel, is the schematic and layout on your very first post good? That is the board that I etched and half way populated... I would like to keep going with this one if it works. I have all the parts now. :icon_mrgreen:
edit: The pdf that I made the board from says last modified on 1/8/2012 by Gabi Tudoran
Gabriel,
Ok, I have this thing all built using you latest instruction/pdf... I have a problem and this may sound stupid :icon_redface: but can you help me with the off board wiring? I have all of the pots wired up and the IN and OUT and 12V but where do the negative/ground go? I tried attaching them to ground but it didn't work... I am not using a foot switch yet until I can actually get this to work then I will box it up and use a foot switch. Also is there supposed to be a jumper from pin 5 to pin 4 of the 555 chip?
Thanks,
Jim
Hey Jim, that is no problem. So we will take it from bottom.
First of all you have to be sure that the 3 jumpers are in place:
-the first one is under de 555IC
- the second one is from C1 to R25
- the third one is above the sockets and connects the V1 and V2 pin number 5 together (the heaters are there) - take care of the heaters pad you will also have to connect it to the 12V positive side.
After that:
- Input is from R2 and GND (any point from ground plane will do)
- Output is from R17 and R18 junction
- 12V input is on the positive side of the 470uF cap C9 on the layout
You will have to make the following checks before you put the tubes in the sockets:
- you have to have 12V @ pin 4 and 8 of the 555 timer
- you will have to have >90v at the positive side of C11 (4.7u) - is the HV out
- you will have to have almost the same voltage like above to the sockets V1 and V2 (pin 1 and pin 6 of the sockets) take your mesurment on the pin directly
- you will have to have 12V @ pin 5 of both sockets - there heaters voltage
After that, if everything is in place and good to go, disconect from the 12V supply, put the sockets in place, reconnect the 12V supply and you should see the heaters glowing. You should take the messurments again (the ones from above) - and @ point 3 from above you should have smaller voltage readings then the first ones. Only after that you should hear smth :P ... and btw keep the volume low and pay attention to your fingers - do not touch FET's metal tab.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 23, 2012, 01:52:50 AM
Gabriel,
Ok, I have this thing all built using you latest instruction/pdf... I have a problem and this may sound stupid :icon_redface: but can you help me with the off board wiring? I have all of the pots wired up and the IN and OUT and 12V but where do the negative/ground go? I tried attaching them to ground but it didn't work... I am not using a foot switch yet until I can actually get this to work then I will box it up and use a foot switch. Also is there supposed to be a jumper from pin 5 to pin 4 of the 555 chip?
Thanks,
Jim
Quote from: gtudoran on February 23, 2012, 03:37:20 AM
Hey Jim, that is no problem. So we will take it from bottom.
First of all you have to be sure that the 3 jumpers are in place:
-the first one is under de 555IC
- the second one is from C1 to R25
- the third one is above the sockets and connects the V1 and V2 pin number 5 together (the heaters are there) - take care of the heaters pad you will also have to connect it to the 12V positive side.
After that:
- Input is from R2 and GND (any point from ground plane will do)
- Output is from R17 and R18 junction
- 12V input is on the positive side of the 470uF cap C9 on the layout
You will have to make the following checks before you put the tubes in the sockets:
- you have to have 12V @ pin 4 and 8 of the 555 timer
- you will have to have >90v at the positive side of C11 (4.7u) - is the HV out
- you will have to have almost the same voltage like above to the sockets V1 and V2 (pin 1 and pin 6 of the sockets) take your mesurment on the pin directly
- you will have to have 12V @ pin 5 of both sockets - there heaters voltage
After that, if everything is in place and good to go, disconect from the 12V supply, put the sockets in place, reconnect the 12V supply and you should see the heaters glowing. You should take the messurments again (the ones from above) - and @ point 3 from above you should have smaller voltage readings then the first ones. Only after that you should hear smth :P ... and btw keep the volume low and pay attention to your fingers - do not touch FET's metal tab.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 23, 2012, 01:52:50 AM
Gabriel,
Ok, I have this thing all built using you latest instruction/pdf... I have a problem and this may sound stupid :icon_redface: but can you help me with the off board wiring? I have all of the pots wired up and the IN and OUT and 12V but where do the negative/ground go? I tried attaching them to ground but it didn't work... I am not using a foot switch yet until I can actually get this to work then I will box it up and use a foot switch. Also is there supposed to be a jumper from pin 5 to pin 4 of the 555 chip?
Thanks,
Jim
Oh cool!! I really appreciate your help Gabriel! I will try this tonight and see if I can get this up and running... I am dying to try this beast out! I read through it real quick and I noticed you have a jumper from C1 to R25? Is that right? Those two are nowhere near each other on the board I have?
Thanks Again!
Jim
Hey Jim,
Could you please send the exact board that you have - i did some changes some time ago and i might put some things out of order. If you send me the exact pdf that you have i can guid you from there without a problem (i would die to have the possibility to upload files on the forum - in this way you could have a nice history of the files)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 23, 2012, 09:06:40 AM
Quote from: gtudoran on February 23, 2012, 03:37:20 AM
Hey Jim, that is no problem. So we will take it from bottom.
First of all you have to be sure that the 3 jumpers are in place:
-the first one is under de 555IC
- the second one is from C1 to R25
- the third one is above the sockets and connects the V1 and V2 pin number 5 together (the heaters are there) - take care of the heaters pad you will also have to connect it to the 12V positive side.
After that:
- Input is from R2 and GND (any point from ground plane will do)
- Output is from R17 and R18 junction
- 12V input is on the positive side of the 470uF cap C9 on the layout
You will have to make the following checks before you put the tubes in the sockets:
- you have to have 12V @ pin 4 and 8 of the 555 timer
- you will have to have >90v at the positive side of C11 (4.7u) - is the HV out
- you will have to have almost the same voltage like above to the sockets V1 and V2 (pin 1 and pin 6 of the sockets) take your mesurment on the pin directly
- you will have to have 12V @ pin 5 of both sockets - there heaters voltage
After that, if everything is in place and good to go, disconect from the 12V supply, put the sockets in place, reconnect the 12V supply and you should see the heaters glowing. You should take the messurments again (the ones from above) - and @ point 3 from above you should have smaller voltage readings then the first ones. Only after that you should hear smth :P ... and btw keep the volume low and pay attention to your fingers - do not touch FET's metal tab.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 23, 2012, 01:52:50 AM
Gabriel,
Ok, I have this thing all built using you latest instruction/pdf... I have a problem and this may sound stupid :icon_redface: but can you help me with the off board wiring? I have all of the pots wired up and the IN and OUT and 12V but where do the negative/ground go? I tried attaching them to ground but it didn't work... I am not using a foot switch yet until I can actually get this to work then I will box it up and use a foot switch. Also is there supposed to be a jumper from pin 5 to pin 4 of the 555 chip?
Thanks,
Jim
Oh cool!! I really appreciate your help Gabriel! I will try this tonight and see if I can get this up and running... I am dying to try this beast out! I read through it real quick and I noticed you have a jumper from C1 to R25? Is that right? Those two are nowhere near each other on the board I have?
Thanks Again!
Jim
Gabriel,
Here is the board that I am using...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/GTFO.pdf
Thanks,
Jim
Hey Jim,
So you're using the last version of it :) excellent, in this case the only jummper is under the 555IC, all the voltage readings and all the check list remain the same. As i cand see in the layout (i've zoomit about 200%) there is a small gap between pin no. 4 of the 555IC and the pad, so again you should have 12V @ pin 4 and 8 of the 555 timer ;) hope everything will go smooth from here.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 23, 2012, 05:48:12 PM
Gabriel,
Here is the board that I am using...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/GTFO.pdf
Thanks,
Jim
Gabriel,
Ok so you are right, I do have 12v @ pins 4 and 8 of the 555 timer and I had around 150v coming from the HV cap C11 so I turned the little onboard pot down until it read 90v. I checked the board/trace side of the tube sockets like you instructed and again you were right... So I guess I just run a 12v jumper wire to the middle trace that goes between both of the pin 5's for the heaters right?
~Jim
Gabriel,
Ok, I got it up and working now :icon_twisted: Thanks to your help!! I am running it direct and it sounds wicked good!! When going direct it doesn't seem to have the intense gain like your videos but that is because it's the pedal all by itself... Just throw a tube screamer in front of it and there it is! The tone is amazing and with the tube screamer it flat out kix ass!!! The TS808 adds a little edge and bite and sounds perfect with the GTFO! I am using it with impulses of a 4x12 25 watt greenback celestion. One thing it does though and maybe you have some ideas but when I plug it into my USB recording interface it reboots my computer? As long as it's on when the computer boots up it's fine but if I power the pedal off and back on again it reboots my PC again...? Overall it sounds insanely good and no noise at all, super quiet!!! :icon_biggrin:
~Jim
EDIT: Ok, I forgot all about the little on-board voltage pot so I decided to tweak it a little bit so, I turned it all the way up! WHOOOOOOOOO......!!! SHAZAM!! Talk about high gain! Sheeeeit!
i also want to tell you that I built it also and it sounds pretty good but I redid the whole thing .......
because I only had larger sized caps I redesigned the PCB to accomidate bigger caps ......
I first populated the PSU and tested it but I couldn"t get it to work properly so , Instead of banging my head against a wall trying to figure it out , I redesigned the PCB again to accomidate a Linear PSU , I just happened to have a Powerpack that I built for a different project laying around that puts out 220v AC and 12v AC and I had another DC regulated 12v supply laying around to use for the heaters ......
I connected it up and got sound but it hummed badly so I switched to 12ac heaters and most all of the hum went away and it sounds pretty damn good for what little I have played with it .......
Since I have to use external PSU"s I have decided to use it instead as a seperate preamp chanell on one of my single channel diy guitar amps so i will have a 2 channel amp , I allready have a relay based channel switching design that i will use to switch channels ..... I have a single chanel amp I built a couple years ago that has a lot of space in the chassis for another chanell ........
Thanx
Here's some gut shots...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/DSCF0163-1.jpg
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/DSCF0160-1.jpg
Hey Jim,
You did a hell of a job there, very nice build. :) The HV should be >90V :)) so yes you have to ajust the trimmer so at the output of the PSU you should have 240-260V :)) that is why in the first place you could get as much gain as in my builds. Glad everything turned out ok.
@Minion - if you would like to use it as a channel amp, then you can use a clasical power supply without any problems.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 23, 2012, 08:50:03 PM
Gabriel,
Ok, I got it up and working now :icon_twisted: Thanks to your help!! I am running it direct and it sounds wicked good!! When going direct it doesn't seem to have the intense gain like your videos but that is because it's the pedal all by itself... Just throw a tube screamer in front of it and there it is! The tone is amazing and with the tube screamer it flat out kix ass!!! The TS808 adds a little edge and bite and sounds perfect with the GTFO! I am using it with impulses of a 4x12 25 watt greenback celestion. One thing it does though and maybe you have some ideas but when I plug it into my USB recording interface it reboots my computer? As long as it's on when the computer boots up it's fine but if I power the pedal off and back on again it reboots my PC again...? Overall it sounds insanely good and no noise at all, super quiet!!! :icon_biggrin:
~Jim
EDIT: Ok, I forgot all about the little on-board voltage pot so I decided to tweak it a little bit so, I turned it all the way up! WHOOOOOOOOO......!!! SHAZAM!! Talk about high gain! Sheeeeit!
Gabriel, I love this thing man!! Any new improvements?
I can't believe others are not building this thing..? Too easy to pass up! BTW - I throw a TS808 in front of mine and record direct with software cab simulation.. sounds killer!!!
Thank you Jim, right now i'm working at a 2 channel version churunch lead... i will keep this topic updated. I hope you will have time to post some records.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 29, 2012, 10:09:51 AM
Gabriel, I love this thing man!! Any new improvements?
I can't believe others are not building this thing..? Too easy to pass up! BTW - I throw a TS808 in front of mine and record direct with software cab simulation.. sounds killer!!!
Quote from: gtudoran on February 29, 2012, 10:23:30 AM
Thank you Jim, right now i'm working at a 2 channel version churunch lead... i will keep this topic updated. I hope you will have time to post some records.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 29, 2012, 10:09:51 AM
Gabriel, I love this thing man!! Any new improvements?
I can't believe others are not building this thing..? Too easy to pass up! BTW - I throw a TS808 in front of mine and record direct with software cab simulation.. sounds killer!!!
Yeah, I will try to get some demos up real soon... just had 2 teeth pulled so I am kinda foggy right at the moment... You read my mind on the 2 channel thing! Are you just doing an extra 2nd gain and volume knob on a switch or...?
Gabriel,
Do you think it would be possible to build this preamp using a nixie psu? Forgive me if it is a stupid question but I am a noob with the tube stuff... :icon_redface:
http://diy-fever.com/amps/mesa-mark-iic-preamp/
Hi,
this is my build of the GTOF. He sounds fantastic, no hum or other problems. First I had a few problems. I couldn't find a UF4004 in default thereof I had used a 1N4007. But It didnt't work, the highest voltage I got was 280V. It MUST be a ultrafast diode. Today I "killed" a old switching power supply and inside I found a BYV26E (http://www.ican.net.cn/UPFILE/20103168394578.jpg) ultrafast diode (1000v 1A). Now I have 260-490V with load! This (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/Verschiedenes/Sw.png) is my PSU, the changes are marked in red.
I've ordered a Hammond enclosure, I hope it will delivered tomorrow. If I finished the GTFO I will send a few another pics.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTFO.jpg)
Thanks for the nice work and regards
Bernd
Hilli - Nice build man!! ;)
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 29, 2012, 11:05:13 PM
Gabriel,
Do you think it would be possible to build this preamp using a nixie psu? Forgive me if it is a stupid question but I am a noob with the tube stuff... :icon_redface:
http://diy-fever.com/amps/mesa-mark-iic-preamp/
most Nixie PSU's are not designed to run quietly.
This would work, as this is already a big pedal
http://www.ebay.com/itm/115-230V-230V-6-3VAC-Out-20W-Transformer-fr-Preamp-/250810391301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6576db05#ht_1307wt_1110
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 07, 2012, 09:04:07 PM
Hilli - Nice build man!! ;)
Thx, it's just a test set-up. ;D
Quote from: iccaros on March 07, 2012, 09:05:11 PM
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 29, 2012, 11:05:13 PM
Gabriel,
Do you think it would be possible to build this preamp using a nixie psu? Forgive me if it is a stupid question but I am a noob with the tube stuff... :icon_redface:
http://diy-fever.com/amps/mesa-mark-iic-preamp/
most Nixie PSU's are not designed to run quietly.
This would work, as this is already a big pedal
http://www.ebay.com/itm/115-230V-230V-6-3VAC-Out-20W-Transformer-fr-Preamp-/250810391301?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6576db05#ht_1307wt_1110
Steve,
How would I get the 400v required for this preamp from only 230V + 6.3VAC Out?
I think it is not possible. :(
Quote from: Hilli on March 07, 2012, 10:58:00 PM
I think it is not possible. :(
I think you're right...
This nixie on the GTFO pedal is surprisingly silent and I believe it would power the other Mesa Mark IIC+ preamp as well..!?
Hey guys, glad to see that are ppl intrested in this project. Nice build Hilli.
@Jim, i'm sure that you could use a SMPS for this project, but i do think you should do some testing - in theory it's possibile.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 07, 2012, 11:02:46 PM
Quote from: Hilli on March 07, 2012, 10:58:00 PM
I think it is not possible. :(
I think you're right...
This nixie on the GTFO pedal is surprisingly silent and I believe it would power the other Mesa Mark IIC+ preamp as well..!?
Quote from: gtudoran on March 08, 2012, 02:41:55 AM
Hey guys, glad to see that are ppl intrested in this project. Nice build Hilli.
@Jim, i'm sure that you could use a SMPS for this project, but i do think you should do some testing - in theory it's possibile.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 07, 2012, 11:02:46 PM
Quote from: Hilli on March 07, 2012, 10:58:00 PM
I think it is not possible. :(
I think you're right...
This nixie on the GTFO pedal is surprisingly silent and I believe it would power the other Mesa Mark IIC+ preamp as well..!?
An SMPS would work, you are only drawing maybe 8 ma.. but.. but the question was can a Nixxie power supply work, and in my experience they are not laid out in a way to be quite, when made for Nixxie tubes.. a 230v rectified is 324v, which in my option with those tubes is good enough.. I do not believe you would hear that much difference. and that supply has 6.3v heater taps,
A SMPS will be smaller, with the GTFO supply you also need to use the heater ckt, as I believe it uses a higher than 12v starting voltage, so you will have to drop voltage to use on the heaters.
@iccaros - as far as i'm intrested this SMPS it's very good (as you can see there is other layout of the parts). Regarding the heaters i didn't understand your sentence but, as you may know 12AX7 also accept 12.4 - 12.6v for heater supply (150mA typical) and the whole pedal use a single 12V power supply ... sincerly i don't see where is the problem.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: iccaros on March 08, 2012, 06:18:15 AM
Quote from: gtudoran on March 08, 2012, 02:41:55 AM
Hey guys, glad to see that are ppl intrested in this project. Nice build Hilli.
@Jim, i'm sure that you could use a SMPS for this project, but i do think you should do some testing - in theory it's possibile.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 07, 2012, 11:02:46 PM
Quote from: Hilli on March 07, 2012, 10:58:00 PM
I think it is not possible. :(
I think you're right...
This nixie on the GTFO pedal is surprisingly silent and I believe it would power the other Mesa Mark IIC+ preamp as well..!?
An SMPS would work, you are only drawing maybe 8 ma.. but.. but the question was can a Nixxie power supply work, and in my experience they are not laid out in a way to be quite, when made for Nixxie tubes.. a 230v rectified is 324v, which in my option with those tubes is good enough.. I do not believe you would hear that much difference. and that supply has 6.3v heater taps,
A SMPS will be smaller, with the GTFO supply you also need to use the heater ckt, as I believe it uses a higher than 12v starting voltage, so you will have to drop voltage to use on the heaters.
Quote from: gtudoran on March 08, 2012, 06:23:22 AM
@iccaros - as far as i'm intrested this SMPS it's very good (as you can see there is other layout of the parts). Regarding the heaters i didn't understand your sentence but, as you may know 12AX7 also accept 12.4 - 12.6v for heater supply (150mA typical) and the whole pedal use a single 12V power supply ... sincerly i don't see where is the problem.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: iccaros on March 08, 2012, 06:18:15 AM
Quote from: gtudoran on March 08, 2012, 02:41:55 AM
Hey guys, glad to see that are ppl intrested in this project. Nice build Hilli.
@Jim, i'm sure that you could use a SMPS for this project, but i do think you should do some testing - in theory it's possibile.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
That's my fault for not looking again at your supply, I thought it was using 15 - 18v on the input to get higher voltages at higher amperage.
I was trying, in my sleep deprived poor communication skilled way, to say that if they buy a "NIXXIE" power supply, like those on ebay, they may be noisy.
Steve - No worries man... It would be nice if I could find a small transformer that would fit the bill... looked all over the place but nothing but big old heavy things that cost big old $$$...
I was looking at tubes and more and there are some little transformers on there that will do 100 to 300 volts pretty cheap and pretty small. Hammond under power. part number P-T442 , has 12.6 filament and 125 secondary for plates. could use a voltage doubler to get higher plate voltage. El34world has on too. http://www.hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?action=template&thispage=Transformers&ORDER_ID=145758238 about halfway down the page is a little toroid that takes 12 ac input and puts out 240 after rectification. They have a two tube chassis to. Hope that helps.
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 08, 2012, 10:13:25 PM
Steve - No worries man... It would be nice if I could find a small transformer that would fit the bill... looked all over the place but nothing but big old heavy things that cost big old $$$...
Mouser has pcb mount transformers that I have used with 12VAC in then you have the 115 or 230 V "secondaries" that can be used for tubes. Use them for my breadboarding all the time. Very small VA rating, but serviceable for 5 mA or so, small size, and about $3 each or so.
Quote from: zambo on March 08, 2012, 10:59:45 PM
I was looking at tubes and more and there are some little transformers on there that will do 100 to 300 volts pretty cheap and pretty small. Hammond under power. part number P-T442 , has 12.6 filament and 125 secondary for plates. could use a voltage doubler to get higher plate voltage. El34world has on too. http://www.hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?action=template&thispage=Transformers&ORDER_ID=145758238 about halfway down the page is a little toroid that takes 12 ac input and puts out 240 after rectification. They have a two tube chassis to. Hope that helps.
Greg - Thanks for that link man!! Tons of good stuff there and located in the US too! :icon_wink:
Quote from: gtudoran on February 23, 2012, 03:37:20 AM
Hey Jim, that is no problem. So we will take it from bottom.
First of all you have to be sure that the 3 jumpers are in place:
-the first one is under de 555IC
- the second one is from C1 to R25
- the third one is above the sockets and connects the V1 and V2 pin number 5 together (the heaters are there) - take care of the heaters pad you will also have to connect it to the 12V positive side.
After that:
- Input is from R2 and GND (any point from ground plane will do)
- Output is from R17 and R18 junction
- 12V input is on the positive side of the 470uF cap C9 on the layout
You will have to make the following checks before you put the tubes in the sockets:
- you have to have 12V @ pin 4 and 8 of the 555 timer
- you will have to have >90v at the positive side of C11 (4.7u) - is the HV out
- you will have to have almost the same voltage like above to the sockets V1 and V2 (pin 1 and pin 6 of the sockets) take your mesurment on the pin directly
- you will have to have 12V @ pin 5 of both sockets - there heaters voltage
After that, if everything is in place and good to go, disconect from the 12V supply, put the sockets in place, reconnect the 12V supply and you should see the heaters glowing. You should take the messurments again (the ones from above) - and @ point 3 from above you should have smaller voltage readings then the first ones. Only after that you should hear smth :P ... and btw keep the volume low and pay attention to your fingers - do not touch FET's metal tab.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on February 23, 2012, 01:52:50 AM
Gabriel,
Ok, I have this thing all built using you latest instruction/pdf... I have a problem and this may sound stupid :icon_redface: but can you help me with the off board wiring? I have all of the pots wired up and the IN and OUT and 12V but where do the negative/ground go? I tried attaching them to ground but it didn't work... I am not using a foot switch yet until I can actually get this to work then I will box it up and use a foot switch. Also is there supposed to be a jumper from pin 5 to pin 4 of the 555 chip?
Thanks,
Jim
Okay, the first one under the NE555 IC, Got it, the second one C1 to R25 ?, where it should be ? I can't find any jumper pad from C1 to R25. C1 is nearly input and R25 is close with C12, so where it should be ?
I've found the third one, a pad between both from fifth tubes pin.
So my question is, where is the Ground Pad of GTFO PCB ?
I'm using http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf - The new version :)
I'm wondering the UF4004 diodes equivalency. Can I change it to UF4007 ? I heard there is a quite issue about this diode. So please tell me, what kind of diodes should I use, if I can't get UF4004 on my electronic store.
Thanks all
Cheers
It is done! ;-) I have inserted a full tone stack. Here is Gabriels modified SCHEMATIC (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTOPLAN.png). He sounds great.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTO.jpg)
Greetings, Bernd
Hey Hili, looks like awsome build,
I wanted to built this pedal too. Seems yours mod from the previous schematic is using Baxandall Theory. It is great idea to put into this pedal.
So, I want to asked about the R16 ,R17, and the rest (Pots,etc) question about your pedal. I still can't find where does it go. Could you please tell me ? I'm kind a confused here, and hope somebody will help me to built this pedal. I just need to know where is the ground pad of this Bad ass pedal.
If you don't mind, please share me about the grounding pad. I'm trying to understand the schematic and PCB, but I still can't found it.
And also, did you put a Silver Mica caps on C10 and C14 ?
Thank you :)
Quote from: fair.child on March 12, 2012, 06:29:01 PM
Hey Hili, looks like awsome build,
I wanted to built this pedal too. Seems yours mod from the previous schematic is using Baxandall Theory. It is great idea to put into this pedal.
So, I want to asked about the R16 ,R17, and the rest (Pots,etc) question about your pedal. I still can't find where does it go. Could you please tell me ? I'm kind a confused here, and hope somebody will help me to built this pedal. I just need to know where is the ground pad of this Bad ass pedal.
If you don't mind, please share me about the grounding pad. I'm trying to understand the schematic and PCB, but I still can't found it.
And also, did you put a Silver Mica caps on C10 and C14 ?
Thank you :)
You can use anywhere on the circuit board ground plain for ground... I would guess that silver mica caps would work fine for c10 and c14..
Hi.My english is not the best, but I will try it. I think I know what your problem is. You can see in the PCB!, not in the layout!!!, there is a big ground-plane that connects everything. The layout is for guidance only when you plant the parts.
And yes, I'm using Silva Mica's.
Greets
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 12, 2012, 07:22:10 PM
Quote from: fair.child on March 12, 2012, 06:29:01 PM
Hey Hili, looks like awsome build,
I wanted to built this pedal too. Seems yours mod from the previous schematic is using Baxandall Theory. It is great idea to put into this pedal.
So, I want to asked about the R16 ,R17, and the rest (Pots,etc) question about your pedal. I still can't find where does it go. Could you please tell me ? I'm kind a confused here, and hope somebody will help me to built this pedal. I just need to know where is the ground pad of this Bad ass pedal.
If you don't mind, please share me about the grounding pad. I'm trying to understand the schematic and PCB, but I still can't found it.
And also, did you put a Silver Mica caps on C10 and C14 ?
Thank you :)
You can use anywhere on the ground plain for ground... I would guess that silver mica caps would work fine for c10 and c14..
thank you for your fast reply Jim and Hili. I'm glad to know it
(Yeay my english too Hili, sorry about my poor english, kind a big confusion here, hope you'll understand)
Just to make sure I'm doing right and one the track.
here's what I think about this project
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3891278/GTFO.png
About the Silver Mica's, Can I use a capacitor that has a lower voltage value of 2kV for silver mica? I think the capacitor has a less voltage han 2 kV, Does it still safe to use ?
I will think twice and read the BOM again for the HV caps.
Anyway, Thanks for your help Jim and Hili, Both of you're the person who help me to solved my confusion and insomnia about this silly question.... arggghhh :) I'm very pleased with your answer
Cheers
And don't forget the jumper (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTFO.png) under IC1. First I had mounted the IC, than I saw the jumper... :icon_redface: ;D
Also fair.child, you asked about R16 and R17... I believe they have been omitted/left out of Hilli's modification. Please correct me if I am wrong Hilli and Great looking build by the way!!! I am wanting to do what you did with the full tone stack! I may try it tonight.. Thanks!
EDIT: Hilli - Any gut shots of your tone stack mod? Also it looks like you mounted the circuit board with screws from looking at the top of your pedal...? Would like to see where you located the screws/holes in the circuit board so that they did not get in the way of anything? I think I can guess but I like pretty pictures lol :icon_mrgreen: Kinda tight inside my build...
~ Jim
You are right Jim. If you build with complete tone stack you do not need R16-R17 and the other stuff after C6. Maybe, if the signal is too loud, you can insert a 47K resistor (try out) from output to ground to reduce the signal.
Edit: I will send any guts tomorrow, first I must finish "remaining work details" ;D
Edit2: The enclosure (http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p1167_Alu-Gehaeuse-Typ-JJ.html) is not a Hammond BB, it is a JJ and a little bigger.
~ Bernd
Quote from: Hilli on March 12, 2012, 08:17:55 PM
You are right Jim. If you build with complete tone stack you do not need R16-R17 and the other stuff after C6. Maybe, if the signal is too loud, you can insert a 47K resistor (try out) from output to ground to reduce the signal.
Edit: I will send any guts tomorrow, first I must finish "remaining work details" ;D
Edit2: The enclosure (http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p1167_Alu-Gehaeuse-Typ-JJ.html) is not a Hammond BB, it is a JJ and a little bigger.
~ Bernd
Very cool Bernd!!! ah ha.. I thought your box looked a little bigger than mine! I will be looking forward to it! :icon_wink: Great mod as I was thinking of something like this myself... The tone controls on this did very minimal, maybe adds or takes away a little presence... Not to take away from the original pedal design at all because it still sounds awesome!!! I am guessing that the added bass/mid/treble will sound great and allow for better tone shaping!!
Quote from: Hilli on March 12, 2012, 08:00:31 PM
And don't forget the jumper (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTFO.png) under IC1. First I had mounted the IC, than I saw the jumper... :icon_redface: ;D
Hey Jim and Hili, I have a few question again, hope you will answer me :)
I saw a pad between the fifth number from the tubes ? It is connected. What is the function of this pad ?
I give a red mark on it. I've realized it from the Jim previous post that it has a wire on it, so where it should go ?
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3891278/GTFO.jpg
and can Silver Mica accommodate 2kV (HV) on this board ? Generally, this is a silly basic question, but I'm curious to know.
About the mods,
Please check this http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3891278/GTFO%20Mods.png, I'm quite doubt about my pots orientation, am I doing right ?
Again, just to make sure the mods are working
Cheers
Quote from: fair.child on March 13, 2012, 04:19:30 AM
Quote from: Hilli on March 12, 2012, 08:00:31 PM
And don't forget the jumper (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTFO.png) under IC1. First I had mounted the IC, than I saw the jumper... :icon_redface: ;D
Hey Jim and Hili, I have a few question again, hope you will answer me :)
I saw a pad between the fifth number from the tubes ? It is connected. What is the function of this pad ?
I give a red mark on it. I've realized it from the Jim previous post that it has a wire on it, so where it should go ?
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3891278/GTFO.jpg
and can Silver Mica accommodate 2kV (HV) on this board ? Generally, this is a silly basic question, but I'm curious to know.
About the mods,
Please check this http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3891278/GTFO%20Mods.png, I'm quite doubt about my pots orientation, am I doing right ?
Again, just to make sure the mods are working
Cheers
That pad between the tubes that you have marked in red is for the 12v heater... I ran a wire directly from the 12v DC input to this pad.
The silver mica should be rated at 2kv, if not you may have problems... What are yours rated at?
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 13, 2012, 11:05:06 PM
That pad between the tubes that you have marked in red is for the 12v heater... I ran a wire directly from the 12v DC input to this pad.
The silver mica should be rated at 2kv, if not you may have problems... What are yours rated at?
ahh, I see that, okay, thank you for your confirm Jim
so, the marked 5th pad is for the 12V DC heater
about silver mica, I believe mine should be rated under 2kV in my SM mark. It is around 500V. Is it still possible to use it ?
Cheers
> Can I use a capacitor that has a lower voltage value of 2kV for silver mica?
Use 400V or 500V.
Just like real tube guitar amplifers.
Silver Mica was sometimes used in radio transmitters or TV sets at high voltage, so 2,000V Silver Mica used to be available.
ALL high-voltage work is out of style today, so some new SM is rated 50V.
This amp runs 100V-400V depending on your power supply. 400V-500V rated caps will be fine.
And don't forget. Working with high voltage is dangerous and can be deadly. Be careful.
Quote from: Hilli on March 15, 2012, 02:39:29 AM
And don't forget. Working with high voltage is dangerous and can be deadly. Be careful.
No doubt! \\\SHAZAM///
Bernd, I was hoping to see some gut shots of you tone stack mod? If not that's ok... :icon_sad:
My GTFO gets quite warm/hot after a while of playing... I was thinking to install a small fan on the front to expel the heat from the inside of the pedal..? Thoughts?
> Thoughts?
Tube stuff is supposed to run hot. Enjoy.
Quote from: Hilli on March 15, 2012, 02:39:29 AM
And don't forget. Working with high voltage is dangerous and can be deadly. Be careful.
Beware the Ides of March. Which is today.
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 15, 2012, 06:59:00 PM
Bernd, I was hoping to see some gut shots of you tone stack mod?
Sorry, I didn't had the time to make photos. I will send they in the next few days (tomorrow).
Quote from: PRR on March 15, 2012, 07:03:20 PM
> Thoughts?
Tube stuff is supposed to run hot. Enjoy.
Yeah, I know... Not really worried about the tubes themselves... I am more worried about the components trapped inside the box... Glad I got all 105c capacitors!
Jim, did you make pictures?
Quote from: Hilli on March 15, 2012, 11:50:50 PM
Jim, did you make pictures?
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/gtfo-11.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/gtfo%202.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/gtfo%201.jpg)
Wow, Cool. How have you mounted the PCB? There are no holes....
Ok, here is a "REAL SHITTY" sound clip of it running direct with very slight delay and a mesa boogie cab impulse .... I am tired and just chuggin a little to let you hear the tone I am getting... Not trying to impress lol
I have an amp and I have ran it through it also and to me that is the way to go!! It really kix ass going into your amp in my opinion but my brother has my SM57 so direct it is for now...
Please don't laugh :icon_redface:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/11178619/GTFO-1%20TEST1.mp3
Quote from: Hilli on March 16, 2012, 12:52:58 AM
Wow, Cool. How have you mounted the PCB? There are no holes....
Yeah, it's mounted weird... I have some plastic standoffs stuck to the back lid... It's pretty sturdy but I want to do your tone stack mod and get a bigger box. Ideally I would like to mount the tubes horizontally and internalize them with good ventilation.
OK, Jim. Here is a pic from inside my GTFO. I must modified the PCB for many times, that's why it looks a bit sh****. The next one will be perfect. ;D
Greetings.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/InsideGTFO.jpg)
Hilli (Bernd) C'mon man... you have the best looking build to date not to mention the bass/mid/treble mod! :icon_wink: So you didn't modify the board layout for your mod I see.. Does fair.childs diagram look right? http://dl.dropbox.com/u/3891278/GTFO%20Mods.png
I'll probably just refer to you schematic...
I am gonna do this on my next one but I am waiting for a bigger box to arrive...
You didn't have a little short in the middle of your board did you? Maybe it's just the way the light is hitting the copper?
Over all excellent build!!!
~Jim
Thanks man. In the middle of the board you can see the tracks of a glass fiber brush, it is bare copper. The last modified schema is here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTOPLAN.png). The tone stack can be found here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/TS.jpg).
I have used Pin 3 of pot 1 for output.
Bernd
Quote from: Hilli on March 16, 2012, 11:46:33 PM
Thanks man. In the middle of the board you can see the tracks of a glass fiber brush, it is bare copper. The last modified schema is here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTOPLAN.png). The tone stack can be found here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/TS.jpg).
I have used Pin 3 of pot 1 for output.
Bernd
Hey guys, I didn't post here for several days. I have searched down the quite good component of GTFO BOM,
I will used MMK, RIFA, Elna and Muse capacitors for my next GTFO. I've found a little bit problem about the 100uH inductor
can I used this one ?
(http://shop.rabtron.co.za/catalog/images/inductor.jpg)
instead I followed the picture from both of you, Bernd and Jim, have a different type of inductor ? is it possible to use this one ?
also it listed on the GTFO real BOM about 470uF. Is it also possible if I used 470 uF/50V ? What kind of cable did you use to wire up your board ? 22 or 24 AWG ? It looks bigger than normal AWG 22 or 24
I'm still etch my PCB, maybe next monday or a week then I'll post my PCB . Thanks for your suggestion about high voltage, I really aware with it
Cheers guys
Hey guys.... i'm ... just amazed :o :o :o :o excellent builds congrats, pfff excellent again. Sorry that i didn't replay for some time but i was a little bit out of the country. Congrats again.
@fair.child: no you can't use that type of inductor, it has to be smth at least like this: http://www.voti.nl/common/L_9_100uH.jpg (http://www.voti.nl/common/L_9_100uH.jpg) , the 450uF capacitor - you can use anything above 12V so a 50v would be just ok.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: gtudoran on March 17, 2012, 04:07:56 AM
Hey guys.... i'm ... just amazed :o :o :o :o excellent builds congrats, pfff excellent again. Sorry that i didn't replay for some time but i was a little bit out of the country. Congrats again.
@fair.child: no you can't use that type of inductor, it has to be smth at least like this: http://www.voti.nl/common/L_9_100uH.jpg (http://www.voti.nl/common/L_9_100uH.jpg) , the 450uF capacitor - you can use anything above 12V so a 50v would be just ok.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Finally, the great wizard posted something here :D :D,
You've done a great job Gabriel, thank you for your attention,
Seems like the inductor should be rated 100uH /3A for it, okay I'll search down over my town tomorrow :) About the wire, could it possible using 22/24AWG ?
and about the resistor, is it okay to use 1/4 W 1% resistor ? like this
(http://cdn100.iofferphoto.com/img3/item/212/112/326/50-value-1-4w-metal-film-resistors-1r-10mr-1-1000pcs-6bd12.jpg)
Cheers All
Quote from: fair.child on March 17, 2012, 11:51:20 AM
Quote from: gtudoran on March 17, 2012, 04:07:56 AM
Hey guys.... i'm ... just amazed :o :o :o :o excellent builds congrats, pfff excellent again. Sorry that i didn't replay for some time but i was a little bit out of the country. Congrats again.
@fair.child: no you can't use that type of inductor, it has to be smth at least like this: http://www.voti.nl/common/L_9_100uH.jpg (http://www.voti.nl/common/L_9_100uH.jpg) , the 450uF capacitor - you can use anything above 12V so a 50v would be just ok.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hey Fair.child,
I've used 1/4w rezistors without any problems, so yes you can use them - i also had some 1w small profile rezistors (if you have any you could use them).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Finally, the great wizard posted something here :D :D,
You've done a great job Gabriel, thank you for your attention,
Seems like the inductor should be rated 100uH /3A for it, okay I'll search down over my town tomorrow :) About the wire, could it possible using 22/24AWG ?
and about the resistor, is it okay to use 1/4 W 1% resistor ? like this
(http://cdn100.iofferphoto.com/img3/item/212/112/326/50-value-1-4w-metal-film-resistors-1r-10mr-1-1000pcs-6bd12.jpg)
Cheers All
I bought these (http://www.ebay.de/itm/8Pcs-100uH-3A-Power-Inductor-Coil-Surface-Mount-A9U-/260981672369?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3cc3b849b1). Hope they will work better than mine. (I use 1,7A Induktors, through the coil flows a current of 240mA, but the impulse current is much higher. They runs hot)
Quote from: Hilli on March 17, 2012, 06:41:16 PM
I bought these (http://www.ebay.de/itm/8Pcs-100uH-3A-Power-Inductor-Coil-Surface-Mount-C7A-/110844088040?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item19ced28ee8). Hope they will work better than mine. (I use 1,7A Induktors, through the coil flows a current of 240mA, but the impulse current is much higher. They runs hot)
I used these
http://www.futurlec.com/Power_Inductors.shtml
I got most of the parts from Futurlec... You have to email them and stay on their A$$E$ about your order. If one part is out of stock they will hold up the whole order until they get the parts in and they won't notify you. If you contact them they answer you back quickly... In my case they were out of one resistor on my order and I just told them to leave it off and just send the sh!t... Got my stuff in about 2 weeks in the US.
Hey Jim,
nice shop with a lot of nice parts. I found useful things there. But I miss tube-parts. These are the shops where I buy most of my stuff. Here (http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/index.php/language/en) and here (http://www.musikding.de/index.php/language/en/XTCsid/1773c81be742dacdfaeaad354bd182aa).
Quote from: Hilli on March 18, 2012, 04:06:31 AM
Hey Jim,
nice shop with a lot of nice parts. I found useful things there. But I miss tube-parts. These are the shops where I buy most of my stuff. Here (http://www.tube-town.net/ttstore/index.php/language/en) and here (http://www.musikding.de/index.php/language/en/XTCsid/1773c81be742dacdfaeaad354bd182aa).
Bernd,
Those are both nice links! Are they pretty reliable? I am interested! Not very many places in the US for that kind of stuff so I usually have to order from UK or China...
I have ordered from this site as well... pretty good and reliable although it takes a long time for me to receive the stuff in the US. I guess that's to be expected.
http://uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/
~ Jim
Quote from: Hilli on March 17, 2012, 06:41:16 PM
I bought these (http://www.ebay.de/itm/8Pcs-100uH-3A-Power-Inductor-Coil-Surface-Mount-A9U-/260981672369?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3cc3b849b1). Hope they will work better than mine. (I use 1,7A Induktors, through the coil flows a current of 240mA, but the impulse current is much higher. They runs hot)
Those look pretty hefty! They are surface mount but I am sure you can make them work easily by soldering leads to them or maybe even mounting them on the solder side of the board... They look like they will do well with little or no heat issues!
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 18, 2012, 10:24:37 AM
Those are both nice links! Are they pretty reliable?
They are both ABSOLUTELY reliable. I've used for 8 years and NEVER had a problem. They are very fast, especially Tube-Town. (No, I get no money from the shops, unfortunately. ;D)
Bernd
Here comes another pic. I LOVE this little Box.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTFO1.jpg)
Bernd - That looks insanely cool!!! How does it sound? Any clips? I know, I am always asking for something... :icon_wink: Nice ENGL!
Hi Jim,
I do not have any clips, but when I find the time I'll make a video. The ENGL is an old Screamer 50 from 1998. He is no longer in production, but I'm very happy to have this KILLER amp. The newer ENGL's are not bad, but they goes more and more Heavy Metal. And that's not my thing.
Bernd
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 16, 2012, 10:46:09 PM
I am gonna do this on my next one but I am waiting for a bigger box to arrive...
Have you received the bigger box? I have ordered a new enclosure, this will be my build No.2. A friend of mine had heard my GTFO and now.....I must build one for him. 8)
Quote from: Hilli on March 24, 2012, 06:17:26 PM
Quote from: J0K3RX on March 16, 2012, 10:46:09 PM
I am gonna do this on my next one but I am waiting for a bigger box to arrive...
Have you received the bigger box? I have ordered a new enclosure, this will be my build No.2. A friend of mine had heard my GTFO and now.....I must build one for him. 8)
Yeah I have the new box but now I just need to find some time to make another one... I have built 2 now and this will be the 3rd... I know what you mean about the friend wanting one.. ha ha ;)
Very cool! I want to build one of these! :icon_evil:
Holly crap Jim :D way to go - 3x GTFO (try to cascade them ;D ;D ;D)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
So I'm thinking about building this and unlike Hilli I'd build only one... For starters.
Which tube socket works best?
http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p1196_Socket-noval-print.html (http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p1196_Socket-noval-print.html)
or
http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p3252_Socket-noval-print-small.html (http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/info/p3252_Socket-noval-print-small.html)
I have used the small sockets. They are perfect.
Hilli
Dear friends who have been made GTFO,
Here mine, I built this today, but I will test this maybe next week, because I'll go out of my town
Here, the board before I soldered up all of the component
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7042347569_f53961f837_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042347569/)
IMG_0602 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042347569/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7042336399_8852ea0da2_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042336399/)
IMG_0603 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042336399/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
After few hours,
Taddaaaaaaaa
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7242/6896247590_f00c51ca0c_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/6896247590/)
IMG_0604 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/6896247590/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
I luv it
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7105/7042340887_348f2d3fab_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042340887/)
IMG_0605 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042340887/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
I have keep in my mind for Hili Mods, so here, I made a MOD out for 10N caps for it
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7064/7042350599_1ab7ff109e_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042350599/)
IMG_0609 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042350599/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
I also tried to make IRF transistor socketed, so I can swap it easily if it misconfigured or broken
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7235/7042353401_3c7232f632_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042353401/)
IMG_0606 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7042353401/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
Finally, back of the board
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/6896261350_eaeeca6941_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/6896261350/)
IMG_0607 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/6896261350/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
I haven't finished this yet, probably I will try the Hili mods in my board after I have GTFO basic result
Please give me any advice about my works, it would be my pleasure if heard suggestion from Jim or Hili (both of you guys)
Cheers all
Damn! That board looks great!! Keep in mind that the caps are high and Q1 the IRF740 is sitting high. Might want to get a larger box/enclosure to put it in! If not you will have to lay the caps down on their side so you can fit it in the box without them hitting the pots. Hilli (Bernd's) box looks to be a perfect size! Looks great man!
Remember to do all of this like Gabriel Tudoran told me!!
- Input is from R2 and GND (any point from ground plane will do)
- Output is from R17 and R18 junction
- 12V input is on the positive side of the 470uF cap C9 on the layout
You will have to make the following checks before you put the tubes in the sockets:
- you have to have 12V @ pin 4 and 8 of the 555 timer
- you will have to have 90v at the positive side of C11 (4.7u) - is the HV out
- you will have to have almost the same voltage like above to the sockets V1 and V2 (pin 1 and pin 6 of the sockets) take your mesurment on the pin directly
- you will have to have 12V @ pin 5 of both sockets - there heaters voltage
After that, if everything is in place and good to go, disconect from the 12V supply, put the tubes in the sockets, reconnect the 12V supply and you should see the heaters glowing. You should take the messurments again (the ones from above) - and @ point 3 from above you should have smaller voltage readings then the first ones. Only after that you should hear something... and btw keep the volume low and pay attention to your fingers - do not touch FET's metal tab or the back side of the board!
Quote from: J0K3RX on April 03, 2012, 08:58:47 PM
Damn! That board looks great!! Keep in mind that the caps are high and Q1 the IRF740 is sitting high. Might want to get a larger box/enclosure to put it in! If not you will have to lay the caps down on their side so you can fit it in the box without them hitting the pots. Hilli (Bernd's) box looks to be a perfect size! Looks great man!
Remember to do all of this like Gabriel Tudoran told me!!
- Input is from R2 and GND (any point from ground plane will do)
- Output is from R17 and R18 junction
- 12V input is on the positive side of the 470uF cap C9 on the layout
You will have to make the following checks before you put the tubes in the sockets:
- you have to have 12V @ pin 4 and 8 of the 555 timer
- you will have to have 90v at the positive side of C11 (4.7u) - is the HV out
- you will have to have almost the same voltage like above to the sockets V1 and V2 (pin 1 and pin 6 of the sockets) take your mesurment on the pin directly
- you will have to have 12V @ pin 5 of both sockets - there heaters voltage
After that, if everything is in place and good to go, disconect from the 12V supply, put the tubes in the sockets, reconnect the 12V supply and you should see the heaters glowing. You should take the messurments again (the ones from above) - and @ point 3 from above you should have smaller voltage readings then the first ones. Only after that you should hear something... and btw keep the volume low and pay attention to your fingers - do not touch FET's metal tab or the back side of the board!
First of all, I would say thank you jim, you have been followed my several project and help me debugging. Yesterday before I've left for out of my town, I tried to power it up with 12VDC and tried to see the result
I'm curious with what I've done
1. I always keep in my mind that my GTFO is high voltage pedal, regarding that I embraced myself to put an old 12ax7 to see the result
Seems fine but weirdo I didn't see the heater light on them, but they're getting hot when I connected 12ax7, so please give me your assumption Jim about my problem? Maybe bad 12ax7? Or my wiring?
2. I didn't have much time to check dmm, but I remembered that I touched the IRF metal, nothing happen Jim, tell me what happend if I haf touched it ? Maybe I would get killed or something ? And I realized that I need to bias 5k trim in proper way, so what is the best value for 5k trim? Where I should put my red pin DMM to see the adjusment? Because I got my GTFO result when I pulled left the trimmer, but it doesn't seem the proper way to bias/adjust 5k trimmer
3. I saw that my GTFO build doesn't give me hi gain result like Jim GTFO or maybe Hili GTFO because I tried to compare it with jim soundclip and mine. My gtfo sounds like a vintage overdrive, can you give me the signal chain when you tested your GTFO, Jim? Let me know what kind of amp channel did you use to test it.
About your warning, yes Jim , I've been carefully with this build, wearing slippers, etc. And maybe I would try to Check the voltages after I come back from out of town. Just to make I was doing right with my GTFO, my last question this built is categorized to amp or a OD pesto ? I'm curious to know it, Jim
At the end, gabriel, you are the one who deserved a medal because you had shared it,
cheers all
Hey Jim,
Holy crap,
This pedal is really amazed me a lot....
Metal Rules, I guess, today I will try Hili mods, I discovered everything was right, instead I should change my old tubes
This pedal, really rawk, I will catch the demo soon
Cheers all
Anybody build one with a nixie supply or a power transformer yet? I did something kind of similar but different schematic layout etc. ( questioning the wisdom of this now....) but using the smps. still tweaking it.
A metal enclosure would be sweet. quieter too lol. I have been quieting down the smps by loading it down with a resistor from b+ to ground of around 33k. It hasnt blown up yet.
Quote from: zambo on April 10, 2012, 08:45:54 PM
Anybody build one with a nixie supply or a power transformer yet? I did something kind of similar but different schematic layout etc. ( questioning the wisdom of this now....) but using the smps. still tweaking it.
A metal enclosure would be sweet. quieter too lol. I have been quieting down the smps by loading it down with a resistor from b+ to ground of around 33k. It hasnt blown up yet.
Greg, that sounds good man and great playing!! interested to see the schematic you used, care to share? Also, what kind of amp are you running into? btw - The gtfo has a nixie in it.
I used a typical preamp of 4 gainstages gs>1meg pot>gs>1meg pot>gs>tone stack ( british style)gs> 1meg pot. Plate R is 220 on first 3 and 47 on 4 . Cathode R is 1k5, 2k2 , 10 , 4k7 with the first 2 bypassed with 22uf caps. running at 200 volts from taylor 1363 smps. I may change to the gtfo schematic if I cant get this one sounding right. Its sounds ok but still tweaking it. Amp is a peavey bandit 112 on the clean channel with the bass and treble up around 7 and mids around 3 or 4. I was trying to set it at levels I see other guys play so I could adjust the pedals voicing right. Thanks for the kind words and watching. :)
Now I can play my guitar in peace...
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7078/7070406899_1298949f42_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7070406899/)
IMG_0617 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/75813062@N05/7070406899/) by DIY Parts + PCB Center (http://www.flickr.com/people/75813062@N05/), on Flickr
I'm still asking what is the exact value for the 5k Trimpot ? I'm tweaking and still working on it. I got a whine when I boxing GTFO, but suddenly I remembered about the 5k Trim, so I started to tweak it. My question is how to adjust this 5k Trim and what is the exact output value ?
Here's what I've got,
http://soundcloud.com/andrewraharjo/gto-supercharger-smps-method
Sorry for sloppy playing, I'm too excited with this Hi-Gain pedal
Cheers all
Alright guys, need just a little help here. I just put mine together, but I used the old PCB artwork (post 66 or something). I wired it according to the schematic (near as I can tell, I needed to make one or two small adjustments). I just plugged in power to it and it smoked my LM7812 in no time flat. I am wondering if my 1A 12V power supply is too weak. I don't have a more powerful power supply currently, so I can't just check that out. What current rating do all of you have for your power supplies? Thanks.
I have a question about the schematic. It shows R24 and R25 in series between the 2nd and 3rd gain stages. Why wouldn't we just replace that with a 33k resistor? I am thinking the schem is problem not quite correct, as I would think that R24 would be on the right, therefore making the HV come through R24 to get to pin 1 of V2, then through R25 to get to pin 6 of V1. Is this correct? That is how I wired it.
As a note, I found my first issue, I had a short from +12V to GND. However, I still don't have any HV and my IRF740 gets blazing hot in a relatively short amount of time. I've never done one of these PWM power supplies, so I really don't know what I am doing. My pot 5 is a 1k multi turn trimmer set to about half (about 500R per side). Any ideas?
Quote from: Ripthorn on April 18, 2012, 08:16:25 PM
Alright guys, need just a little help here. I just put mine together, but I used the old PCB artwork (post 66 or something). I wired it according to the schematic (near as I can tell, I needed to make one or two small adjustments). I just plugged in power to it and it smoked my LM7812 in no time flat. I am wondering if my 1A 12V power supply is too weak. I don't have a more powerful power supply currently, so I can't just check that out. What current rating do all of you have for your power supplies? Thanks.
I used 12AV 500mA DC, it's fine, hey you've got 66 PCB artwork, hmm I look like you got the wrong PCB artwork
here quoted from Gabriel
Quote from: gtudoran on February 04, 2012, 03:21:08 AM
Hello Minion,
Ahhhh %#$%#, you have missed the post #83 ( http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_ok.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_ok.svg) ) this is the last PCB for GTFO (i've made a mistake: i've overwritten the general instruction PDF but i didn't erase the PCB PDF) i think that it will be the best practive to redo the PCB or you can use the schematic to populate the board it will be a little bit more complicated but you will not loose it :icon_cry: :icon_cry: really sorry for this mistake. I will also modify the #66 post to have all the latest data.
UPDATE! USE THIS! DO NOT USE POST No. 66:
General Instructions: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/GTFO.pdf)
Bom: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/bom.txt (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/bom.txt)
PCB SVGfile: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_new.svg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15275178/blast%20from%20the%20past/BFTP_brd_new.svg)
Thank you again for pointing that mistake, 1000x excuses for this.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: @guitarrob - yes there are 2 x superbright blue leds under the tubes :D just for design :D
Quote from: Minion on February 03, 2012, 10:10:11 PM
Hi , I etched my board and I drilled the holes and then went to install some components and realized that the Layout that shows the parts placement does not match up with the PCB ........ The traces and parts placements in the PSU don"t match up and also in other places ......
I"m using the layout and pcb from post #66 ....... Is there an updated layout ??
Thanx
Quote from: Ripthorn on April 18, 2012, 08:55:51 PM
I have a question about the schematic. It shows R24 and R25 in series between the 2nd and 3rd gain stages. Why wouldn't we just replace that with a 33k resistor? I am thinking the schem is problem not quite correct, as I would think that R24 would be on the right, therefore making the HV come through R24 to get to pin 1 of V2, then through R25 to get to pin 6 of V1. Is this correct? That is how I wired it.
As a note, I found my first issue, I had a short from +12V to GND. However, I still don't have any HV and my IRF740 gets blazing hot in a relatively short amount of time. I've never done one of these PWM power supplies, so I really don't know what I am doing. My pot 5 is a 1k multi turn trimmer set to about half (about 500R per side). Any ideas?
Try to etch new PCB Artwork then you'll have something to successful pesto photo post here. And yes from the schem 33, there was an errata on it. HV pin out 1 from the tubes should be more likely on pin out 6 from tubes (above 400V ), and make sure tube heater are on. Also try to put extra ground to make your wiring become easier :)
Cheers
Quote from: fair.child on April 19, 2012, 12:27:34 AM
Quote from: Ripthorn on April 18, 2012, 08:55:51 PM
I have a question about the schematic. It shows R24 and R25 in series between the 2nd and 3rd gain stages. Why wouldn't we just replace that with a 33k resistor? I am thinking the schem is problem not quite correct, as I would think that R24 would be on the right, therefore making the HV come through R24 to get to pin 1 of V2, then through R25 to get to pin 6 of V1. Is this correct? That is how I wired it.
As a note, I found my first issue, I had a short from +12V to GND. However, I still don't have any HV and my IRF740 gets blazing hot in a relatively short amount of time. I've never done one of these PWM power supplies, so I really don't know what I am doing. My pot 5 is a 1k multi turn trimmer set to about half (about 500R per side). Any ideas?
Try to etch new PCB Artwork then you'll have something to successful pesto photo post here. And yes from the schem 33, there was an errata on it. HV pin out 1 from the tubes should be more likely on pin out 6 from tubes (above 400V ), and make sure tube heater are on. Also try to put extra ground to make your wiring become easier :)
Cheers
I know that the pcb artwork is not the latest nor correct, but I had already etched the board and started populating it before I realized it. So I have just been carrying on and primarily working from the schematic. I have isolated the power supply section to try to get that squared away first, but I get nothing. I am just wondering if there are common pitfalls with the power supply section that some have run into. I will check it out again tonight after work.
As for the schem, on the signal portion of it (first page), where exactly should the HV connect? Should it connect between R24 and R25?
R24 goes to C11 and C13
R25 goes to R24 and C12
Have you tried to check the SMPS Voltage ? I mean, did you try to turning your 1k-5k trim ? in my opinion, HV connect comes from the SMPS.
Try to upload some pictures of your build. Probably, Jim, Gabriel or Hili can figure something, in case solving your problem.
Cheers
I had the same problem first, the IRF was overheated and destroyed in a very short time. The reason was that I used a toroidal inductor. They are unsuitable for this project.
Please upload pictures.
@fair.child: Wow, very nice PCB. That looks professional !!!
Just finished populating my version of this build. Will post pics soon.
Just a reminder, the inductor needs to be rated at 1A and non-torroidal. Also this little guy pulls ~250mA completely unloaded (according to my bench PSU). Figure in heaters @ 300mA and anode current @ ~15mA and we have eaten up the better part of 1A, so the wall wart needs to be rated at least 1A.
When you guys mentioned the inductor, I went and took a look. Turns out that when I enlarged the hole in the pcb for the inductor leads, I cut the trace, so I had to have some solder on both sides of the lead and I was able to dial in over 300V. I tested voltages with and without tubes, and all looks good so far. Now I just have to try the whole thing all wired up, which I hope to do tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions guys, things are looking good.
Just fyi - I used an old 12v laptop or LCD monitor power adapter... It's rated @ 12v DC 4.5amps I save power adapters from everything, I must have a whole box full of them, maybe 100 or more :icon_rolleyes: Ya never know when one will work for something... My wife tried to throw them away without me noticing and I saw them out in the trash, so I went out and grabbed them all and brought them all back in the house! :icon_twisted: Then I took all of her purses and put them out in the trash ha ha :icon_twisted:
Quote from: Hilli on April 19, 2012, 05:40:05 PM
@fair.child: Wow, very nice PCB. That looks professional !!!
Thank you for your compliment Hili. Glad to know it.
It looks like you also can do fabricated PCB, if you want to built one again :), I would suggest to order it with http://www.seeedstudio.com/ I think they will sell you few of fabricated PCB with great deal. I realized that in my country to do fabricated PCB seems difficult, so seeedstudio option probably the best for get more professional PCB
Cheers
Quote from: Ripthorn on April 19, 2012, 09:44:39 PM
When you guys mentioned the inductor, I went and took a look. Turns out that when I enlarged the hole in the pcb for the inductor leads, I cut the trace, so I had to have some solder on both sides of the lead and I was able to dial in over 300V. I tested voltages with and without tubes, and all looks good so far. Now I just have to try the whole thing all wired up, which I hope to do tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions guys, things are looking good.
Did you breadboarding or try to built GTFO with vero ? be careful. I've been 'shazam' (hot and stark) by this pedal, and It was really painful even just a little touch. Don't hurt yourself :)
Cheers
Quote from: fair.child on April 20, 2012, 06:56:24 AM
Quote from: Ripthorn on April 19, 2012, 09:44:39 PM
When you guys mentioned the inductor, I went and took a look. Turns out that when I enlarged the hole in the pcb for the inductor leads, I cut the trace, so I had to have some solder on both sides of the lead and I was able to dial in over 300V. I tested voltages with and without tubes, and all looks good so far. Now I just have to try the whole thing all wired up, which I hope to do tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions guys, things are looking good.
Did you breadboarding or try to built GTFO with vero ? be careful. I've been 'shazam' (hot and stark) by this pedal, and It was really painful even just a little touch. Don't hurt yourself :)
Cheers
I have been working just on the populated PCB. I was careful with the high voltage supply. Previously I have never gone higher than about 150V in a project, but I am not too worried about this.
Here is my contribution. I reworked the layout a bit, added board mounted pots and a shielded heater run on board. PSU yields about 325 vdc loaded. Fet and inductor get pretty warm. The finished circuit pulls about 600mA current.
Does anyone know if there are types of 555s that should NOT be used?
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e348/Grovenut/GTFO.jpg)
Quote from: J0K3RX on April 19, 2012, 11:50:15 PM
My wife tried to throw them away without me noticing and I saw them out in the trash, so I went out and grabbed them all and brought them all back in the house! Then I took all of her purses and put them out in the trash ha ha
Great Jim. Hahahaha :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
Damn Groovenut, that looks gorgeous. :o
Groovenut - That is beautiful! Love the board mounted pots!!! That looks sooo damn good bro!!! :icon_eek:
Thanks guys! ;D
I think on the next run I will put the backlight LED option, the effect LED, the jacks, and the switching on board as well. :icon_twisted:
It's a fun project for sure!
Well done Groovenut +1 for you....
Well done Groovenut ! :o :o Could you share your modified layout for onboard pots?
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e348/Grovenut/GearuGTFOV1.jpg)
Here is my modified layout for the board mounted pots. It is two sided but if you move the heater and 555 bridge offboard it's easily done single sided. Thus far I have not had any issues with noise, but I have taken extra filtering precautions to avoid it. I should have it in an enclosure soon and then will follow with pics. Thanks for the interest!
Lawrence,
Very nice!!! Could you post the black and white transfer of the bottom side? Please.. :icon_wink:
Edit: Pretty Please With Solder On It? ;D
Thanks,
~Jim
Quote from: J0K3RX on April 21, 2012, 10:48:54 PM
Lawrence,
Very nice!!! Could you post the black and white transfer of the bottom side? Please.. :icon_wink:
Edit: Pretty Please With Solder On It? ;D
Thanks,
~Jim
Here you go Jim. I dont know why it shows up so freakin big? It should be 3" wide at 300dpi.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e348/Grovenut/LPDGTFOSS.jpg)
Thanks Lawrence!!! ;D
Also, is there any reason the pull up resistor for the BJT was left out?
> why it shows up so freakin big? It should be 3" wide at 300dpi.
Monitors display at 72, 96, 120 etc nominal DPI.
Generally printers have at least 4X to 3X the resolution of monitors. 300dpi is common. 600dpi exists. (Higher numbers in low-price printers are probably trickery.)
I measure your '3 inch' as 10.3" which works out to 87 dots per inch. Windows says it's thinking 96 dots per inch. Maybe my ruler swelled in the rain. Not worth trying to figure-out Windows' teeny mind. (Ah, it may be thinking 15" monitor, it's really 17".)
Quote from: PRR on April 23, 2012, 12:43:03 AM
> why it shows up so freakin big? It should be 3" wide at 300dpi.
Monitors display at 72, 96, 120 etc nominal DPI.
Generally printers have at least 4X to 3X the resolution of monitors. 300dpi is common. 600dpi exists. (Higher numbers in low-price printers are probably trickery.)
I measure your '3 inch' as 10.3" which works out to 87 dots per inch. Windows says it's thinking 96 dots per inch. Maybe my ruler swelled in the rain. Not worth trying to figure-out Windows' teeny mind. (Ah, it may be thinking 15" monitor, it's really 17".)
Thanks Paul,
Hopefully it wont cause anyone any issues.
Quote from: Groovenut on April 22, 2012, 09:42:00 PM
Also, is there any reason the pull up resistor for the BJT was left out?
I just received verification the BJT pullup resistor was indeed unintentionally left out of the original. Actual value is 68k - 100k.
Here are the updated layouts
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e348/Grovenut/LPDGTFOSSLayout.jpg)
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e348/Grovenut/LPDSSGTFO.jpg)
Well, I have mine working. I love it! I have the marshall tone stack on the end as I intend to run this into the power amp in of one of my amps. I have a 5751 in the V1 position, so I don't get quite as much gain as is possible, but I will get another 12ax7 soon enough. I may have to do one using Groovenut's layout. Anyway, I don't have the enclosure done yet, so no pics yet, but they will come.
is it working now?
with a 7025 would be Gr8t
Hi,
would like to divide the Gain with a switch and a resistor, to make a crunchy channel,
how would you procede ?
regards
Pet,
Quote from: PetMan on June 21, 2012, 12:08:42 PM
Hi,
would like to divide the Gain with a switch and a resistor, to make a crunchy channel,
how would you procede ?
regards
Pet,
Probably the easiest way is to place a 82k - 100k (or to taste) from the wiper of the gain pot to ground on a switch. Note this will also reduce the bass response when engaged.
Thx lawrence ,
i'll try that , i'm making mine based on your layout actually , still not received the pcb ! i've bough this box to make space
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261045281109?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
i'm isolating the irf on a big heat sink away from pcb on the box side witch is all aluminum , i've separated this box in 4 channels to add a boost mxr and others fx !
i know you set around 320Vdc on C11 , do you feel it enough now you made it ?
regards
Quote from: PetMan on June 22, 2012, 09:28:33 AM
i know you set around 320Vdc on Drain of the switcher, is it enough now you made it ?
Yes I think so. I've experimented with the B+ levels quite a bit and like to run mine around 280Vdc. It gives it a little more compression and browns the tone ever so nicely.
280vdc on C11, i'll try that, i'm more crunch edge guy, Warren haynes sound kind of!
thx Lawrence for the advices , i got somes Nos 12ax7 phillips and GE, got somes 12 ay7 and 12 at7 too, did you tried those ones?
regards
Quote from: PetMan on June 22, 2012, 09:43:55 AM
280vdc on C11, i'll try that, i'm more crunch edge guy, Warren haynes sound kind of!
thx Lawrence for the advices , i got somes Nos 12ax7 phillips and GE, got somes 12 ay7 and 12 at7 too, did you tried those ones?
regards
I havent tried anything other than current production 12AX7s, but if you are into lower gain sounds using a 12AY or 12AT in V1 would probably sound ok without having to alter the circuit values. Realistically if you wanted to run the lower gain tubes you would need to adjust the circuit values to accommodate them.
Agree, With lower gain tube it might get saturation quicker in V1, in V2 this could be to experiment for output level !
Thx Lawrence,
P,
can't get over 240v C11 for the moment ::) , it works but sound euhhh , pants, had somes issues with tone stack, nothing serious !
waiting for an order of uf4007 in the place of by255 i had avaible, i hope will fix this problem .
all is working well, the UF brings lot of more current, having space into my big box, i bough two big can JJ capacitor, 2x32uf to remove switching bjt pulses , would help i lil bit to improve tone!
thank Lawrence for your help!
i appreciated
Excelent PeteMan, glad to see that this project is still alive... i didn't build a pedal since ... 2 month ago.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: gtudoran on July 15, 2012, 04:20:51 PM
Excelent PeteMan, glad to see that this project is still alive... i didn't build a pedal since ... 2 month ago.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
I am thinking of making a couple similar to the GTFO but based on the ENGL E530 and one based on the Bogner Triple Giant Sharp channel both with full tone stack... What do you think? I could almost do some modding to the GTFO layout and probably get either one or pretty close...
~Jim
thx alot this thread has been a great help ..
have nice hollidays ,
Regards
making another one for a pal, i would like more gain, i'm using the pot about 9 , around 200k , witch resistor would you change with a 200k less on the interstage ? plates?
thx alot
Quote from: PetMan on July 19, 2012, 07:07:25 AM
making another one for a pal, i would like more gain, i'm using the pot about 9 , around 200k , witch resistor would you change with a 200k less on the interstage ? plates?
thx alot
With these high gain tube or jfet preamp disto pedals most guys including myself use a tube screamer in front of them to give them a little more gain/bite and tighten up the bottom end etc.. I know this one is not really a preamp per say but it's based around one so I would do the same with it rather than try to make many changes to it to try to squeeze more gain out of it.
Just my opinion...
~Jim
Hi,
Thx really, but don't bother, i just checked patch jacks, one of them between stompboxes was eating all guitar tone and gain, i've just thrown it in the waste, and now all my gain came back!
i'll try my okko diablo with , nice hint
thx
P
hello friends,
i endeavoured about this device a lil bit, after adding JJ 32uf to rail, i bypassed them with 0.1uf 600v films ones (old mallory i had), and it added grit, clarity to hight and medium tone, opened the headroom and sustain, its almost singing now!
i've put 340v on rail, making edgy sound to brown with gain pot acceptable ! this circuit beeing almost slo carbon copy!
thx alot for you help!
got a lil error on Voltage divider with slo tone stack , on the vol 1M pot wiper, a 470k to ground before the 220k, is this 470k shouldn't be after the 220k on output junction to be a voltage divider?
thx
The newest members of my GTFO family. :) One is for a friend of mine.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTOS.jpg)
WOW nice Hilli!!!
Hey Jim. Thanks man. I have changed a few values and now he sounds even better.
Nice work :) i think would be nice to tell us waht have you changed :)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hi gtudoran,
this is my current schematic (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Schematics/Redraw%20Plan%20GTFO.jpg). Now I have a very nice sounding clean channel, and he is much louder than the f*cking :icon_redface: true bypass.
That is normal, as far as i can see you don't have a volume pot for the clean sound (afer the first triode) and the only load that it's see is that 1M in series with 1M resistor (if i'm not mistaken) and also the load from the next pedal input... so that is going to be very loud if you don't stick a volume pot there.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
No, the clean chanel is perfect. He is a little quieter than the overdrive chanel, but clear, no distortion. It sounds very very nice. The volume difference comparison with the true bypass is enormous. Try it out.
But in the next pedal I will insert a 1Meg log clean volume pot. :)
Greetings, Bernd
Have made a short video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GD9KvCs5xE&feature=plcp). In reality it sounds better, I used a cheap microphone. :-\ ::) :'( :icon_cry:
Greets, Hilli
What a great project! I think that I'm going to pick all the pieces as soon as I can,... In your videos sounds so good!
By the way... Can this beast be used as a preamp? Maybe thru a DI to a sound card, for direct recording?
Quote from: Germaniun_Boy on October 30, 2012, 01:32:39 PM
Can this beast be used as a preamp? Maybe thru a DI to a sound card, for direct recording?
I think yes. Maybe thru a speaker simulation.
Thanks for that quick response! yeah, I have a great soft-simulation for cabs. Maybe, one day, I'll build a good cab simulator, but it's a project that I have started a hundred of times, but I've never decided what schematic is the best...
Does anyone found really good working coils? I have tried hundreds but ALL of them run hot. More or less.
Quote from: Hilli on October 30, 2012, 08:30:19 PM
Does anyone found really good working coils? I have tried hundreds but ALL of them run hot. More or less.
Hilli, I think that you live in Europe, like me (because you use to buy in Banzai and Tube-Town). Have you tried the coils at Farnell? I think I'll buy them there, there is a wide catalogue, and I have seen Panasonic and Wortech inductors (100uH, more than 2A) with a very good apparence...
By the way... I suppose there is no problem in using UF4007 instead xxx4, isn't it? Because I have a pair of them in "stock",...
Hi,
Banzai and TT don't sell coils, I didn't tried the Farnell coils yet. I have tested 2,1A coils - they runs hot. Now I have ordered 3A types on ebay. Hope they works better and will fix my heat problem. Do you have no problems?
UF4007 works fine (1000V 1A).
Greetings
PS: I have updated the schematic, there was an error.
Hilli, thanks again for the new schematic. I have not started tu build this little beast yet, but I'll report any troubles about heating. I think I'll try Farnell coils, let's see if they work so good as they seem to do it...
By the way... Hilli, what is the box that you used for your project? It has the perfect fit, and I'm not sure about what model is... Thanks in advance!
Be still my metal heart.. this thing is AMAZING! I am SO FREAKIN' building one.
Quote from: Germaniun_Boy on November 03, 2012, 11:21:47 AM
By the way... Hilli, what is the box that you used for your project? It has the perfect fit, and I'm not sure about what model is... Thanks in advance!
Hi, the enclosure I used is from Musikding (http://www.musikding.de/Gehaeuse/Aluminium-Guss-Gehaeuse/Natur/Alu-Gehaeuse-Typ-JJ::1167.html). It is al ittle bigger than a BB, but perfect if you build a full tone stack in it.
All the small coils will have problems with heat. Now I have ordered 4 Ampere!!! coils from Digikey (http://www.digikey.de/product-search/de?x=15&y=14&lang=de&site=de&KeyWords=1120-101K-RC). (The same are available from Farnell & Mouser).
Yesterday I tried THESE (http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Murata-Power-Solutions/1422435/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuo%252bmZx5g6tFARcX52hwcBc) 7.8A types, the Coil and the IRF740 (no heatsink) remain ice cold. But they are gigantic, I would need a extra box for it. ;D
I currently mounted 2x220µH in parallel under the footswitch with 2 little PCB's. But they run hot too after an half hour.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Allerlei/coils.jpg)
Thanks, Hilli... Great info! I think I'll try with 5A coils, to be sure of avoiding any heating issue.
Hilli, is this the correct schematic?:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Schematics/Redraw%20Plan%20GTFO.jpg (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Schematics/Redraw%20Plan%20GTFO.jpg)
I'm collecting all the items... In a few days I hope being at work with it!
Waw Hilli - very nice, rilly nice builds you have there. This project of mine i see that had a lot of sucess... i would not expect that. I'm rilly sorry that i couldn't reply on this topic as often as i would like but in the last year had a lot of work with my digital projects (not musical). I will start another research on this project regarding the SMPS optimisation (maybe i could find some solutions - i would like to use a uC so the parts count would be lower, but that i will have to experiment).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hi, I'm trying source parts for this project. While searching for IRF740... I'm finding lots of different ones... can someone post a link to the exact one they used? Much appreciated. Regards, Stev
Hi Guys,
@Germaniun_Boy: yes, that should be the correct schema. (I hope it ;D) Maybe you can experiment with the 100K/220K at the output. At the moment I go directly from the 1M Master pot to the output jack.
@gtudoran: we are very happy, that you develop this project and have share it with us. It would be nice, if you could find a solution to SMPS optimisation. Wish you all the best with your digital projects.
@sst4270: you can use all transistors they are labeled as IRF740. (10A 400V) Such as these (http://www.ebay.de/itm/10PCS-IRF740-IRF-740-Power-MOSFET-10A-400V-TO-220-NEW-/280763066583?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415ec868d7). In my last build I used IRF840 without problems. (500V/ 8A). Or other high voltage n-channel mosfets.
Best regards, Bernd
Hilli, do you simply quit 220k resistor from master volume pot, remaining the bridge to ground? Or do you quit the central lug-ground junction too? Yes, I know... a lot of times I forget the basic things, the rudiments of electronics!
By the way, your chassis layout looks great! I'm designing mine inspiring in your work!
gtudoran: thanks for sharing with us your project, it's really brilliant! Good luck with your new, and digital, ideas!
At last, a question... the BCxxx transistor in the PSU... There isn't trouble about A, B or C series, is it? Thanks again for answering sooo many questions...
Momentary I go from the pot to output. But I will try the voltage devider combination 100K/220K.
The BC547 is uncritically. "C" has a higher voltage gain. You can use a lot of npn universal transistors, like 2N3904.
Greets
@ Groovenut and Fair child - where are you guys getting your pcbs made? They look very professional, not diy home made.
I've used ExpressPCB in the U.S. but I'm looking for another source EU, China, etc... with more affordable prices. I love the solder mask, gold pads, pad printed artwork on your boards.
Any assistance or suggestions from anyone else would be appreciated.
I'm gathering all the parts to build this pedal and would like to not have to etch a board.
Regards,
Steve
PS I simply hate etching my own boards.
@Hilli... What is the difference between go with or without the pair 100k/200k as voltage divider? I suppose that with it there will be a drop of volume... I think I'll try both of them... But... If you have any interesting conclusion about it... please... let me know!! :D
Good luck with the new coil! I hope it hasn't any heating issue... If you have a pair of minutes, paste here the link of the ebay-seller, or of the item... By now, my idea is buying it at Farnell, but it will be very kind to have other choices.
Vielen Dank!
Hi Germaniun_Boy
I saw this method in many other schematics. I think the reason is that tube poweramps have high input impedances?
I would like to buy the Farnell inductors, but the shipping costs to Germany are very high. But I will let you know the rest of the (never ending?) coil-story. ;D
Bitteschön.
@Hilli... Maybe I'm a bit stupid, almost I'm feeling that... but what is the PCB that you use in your project? Because, after reading 14 pages, I don't find the same! :P
Anyway, I can follow the other PCB with your schematic to put my ideas in order...
This (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/Layout1.jpg) is the layout I used. And here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTFO.svg) you can find the same as Vector Graphic. The PCB is 83x74mm.
Why a Toroidal-Inductor shouldn't be used in the SMPS?
Quote from: vasso123 on November 16, 2012, 05:07:51 PM
Why a Toroidal-Inductor shouldn't be used in the SMPS?
I tried several Toroidal-Inductors, they have not worked. You can try it, but watch the IRF740. I have destroyed one. :icon_mrgreen:
Told ya! :D :D :D
Guys, I'm not sure how to fit this in a 1590BB.
Anyone have a drill template by any chance?
i got to try the hilli tube clean tone mod (with a voltage divider of course), with a switch dpdt to keep true bypass when i attack a tube amp (pre) and clean tube when i attack a transistor one!
i made a all new pcb with 3 channels and a real pre footswitch box a la Mesa MarkIV way ! it get different overdriven tones than my Mark IV !
great diy project here!
Quote from: PetMan on January 10, 2013, 06:24:39 AM
i got to try the hilli tube clean tone mod (with a voltage divider of course), with a switch dpdt to keep true bypass when i attack a tube amp (pre) and clean tube when i attack a transistor one!
i made a all new pcb with 3 channels and a real pre footswitch box a la Mesa MarkIV way ! it get different overdriven tones than my Mark IV !
great diy project here!
Let's see it! :icon_lol:
Where are the pics? :icon_wink:
I'm at the testing stage of a build of this using the older layout I believe (but I edited the track)
Voltages seem to be OK atm with some old valves in and vary from about 80v to 500v.
I built this partly as a test for the smps to see if it could be used in a bigger project with more tubes by simply using a bank of them for the various stages.
Would greatly reduce weight for one, cost for another if the mains transformer needs to be bought.
Anyone know how many milliamps this particular psu can reasonably cope with?
Or how many typical preamp tubes?
My intentions were to build a low wattage SLO Clone, using one or two paralleled 6sn7 as power tubes, with the option to pull one for less power.
The output stage would be pretty much from the AX84 4-4-0 studio project.
Here's a shot of the gtfo at present with black lacquer pcb, hand wound 'chubby' 100uH inductor, a bit dusty :)
(http://83.67.105.45/images/gtfo.jpg)
Quote from: guiseppi on May 22, 2013, 04:10:42 AM
Voltages seem to be OK atm with some old valves in and vary from about 80v to 500v.
Sorry. With valves in, the psu can reach about 370V, not 500v!
Does anyone know how or if this pedal would work with 12AU7 tubes? I have about a dozen old RCA and Sylvania 12AU7 tubes have been looking for a two-tube pedal like this to build. Thanks.
@giuseppi: 370V is a very nice voltage :> i would recommand you not to go over. You will have to change the FET if you would like to go over that voltage.
#Henry: i don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Pay attention to the maximum anode voltage (you can ajust output voltage with the trimmer); you will not have the same ammount of gain... but i think it would be ok (it's a matter of taste after all and not a matter of not working ;) )
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
gtudoran: Thanks for the reply. I have been on that other very long thread about the tube pedals, (looking for a verified schematic of a two tube pedal to build) as well as this one, and I have gotten confused on both threads because it seems that too often someone will post a schematic and then a few posts later will say there was a mistake on the schematic and that it needs to be revised but not post the revised schematic. I am not an electronic engineer but I can build a pedal with a good schematic. Would you please post (not just for me but for everyone who may be similarly confused) a final verified schematic of the two tube pedal. Thanks.
Quote from: gtudoran on May 24, 2013, 02:14:47 AM
@giuseppi: 370V is a very nice voltage :> i would recommand you not to go over. You will have to change the FET if you would like to go over that voltage.
I used an IRF840 as that's what I had (I think it will handle at least 500V)
The inductor does get unnervingly hot though...
can someone signpost me to where i can get 6mm resistors. Ive looked on google but no luck
???
Ok, heres mine:
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5697/2hwa.th.jpg) (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/2hwa.jpg/)
(http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/7217/ck9h.th.jpg) (http://img109.imageshack.us/i/ck9h.jpg/)
(http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/7124/8qzc.th.jpg) (http://img801.imageshack.us/i/8qzc.jpg/)
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/6370/29s1.th.jpg) (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/29s1.jpg/)
(http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/111/vu8l.th.jpg) (http://img163.imageshack.us/i/vu8l.jpg/)
Im running at 250V and when I crank the gain up to 8 or above, i get a load of high pitched whining. Im hoping that once I box it and use shielded wires for the in and out then hopefully that might cure it. Any suggestions?
:)
Is GTFO capable of crunch tones? Judging by demos it does heavier stuff quite well, but what happens if you turn up the drive pot just a little bit? I'm in the process of building one. Just finished drilling the board.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xkd9gt677xmry88/IMG_0861.JPG
My recent effort was a BK butler tube driver (baja version), which sounds good, but it's a starved plate pedal and not all tube. I made a different layout and separated the power supply from the rest of the board. If anyone wants the layout - PM me.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s4nvi4rsqv9hjyp/IMG_0613.JPG
To answer my own question - it certainly is. I do have one problem though. The volume pot (500KA) doesn't completely kill the volume when turned all the way down. The only change in the circuit is 500KA - as a drive pot, instead of 1Meg, for now. No spare 1Meg's.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/acixo0r0m3b4j9l/847.JPG?m
Quote from: quad on September 05, 2013, 04:31:11 AMThe volume pot (500KA) doesn't completely kill the volume when turned all the way down.
Some pots will have a small resistance at the end of the track that remains, even when the control is all the way down. Some won't (manufacturing tolerances.) In this case, your "offness" will not be total.
Assuming you wired it right, another identical spec pot *may* not behave this way (manufacturing tolerances.)
To see what to expect, measure the resistance between the wiper and the counterclockwise lug with an ohmmeter - if it is 0 or very very low you won't have this problem.
Now, of course, I'd like to ask a question - is this actually a problem? When is "total offness" used on a guitar effect?
;)
Quote from: tubegeek on September 05, 2013, 09:46:56 AM
Some pots will have a small resistance at the end of the track that remains, even when the control is all the way down. Some won't (manufacturing tolerances.) In this case, your "offness" will not be total.
Assuming you wired it right, another identical spec pot *may* not behave this way (manufacturing tolerances.)
To see what to expect, measure the resistance between the wiper and the counterclockwise lug with an ohmmeter - if it is 0 or very very low you won't have this problem.
Now, of course, I'd like to ask a question - is this actually a problem? When is "total offness" used on a guitar effect?
;)
I thought about that. To me it's a second 500KA in a row that doesn't work right. Could be a bad batch. I had another one that was crackling and shorting out somehow. I'm just going to measure the pot. Actually it is a bit of a problem, considering it's still a fairly loud setting at total roll off. :)
OK, I just looked at the schematic. When POT3 is all the way down, and if the value of the pot is 500K, the situation is like this (I think):
the 10K resistor (R16) and the series combination of the 220K and 10K (R18 and R 17) are in parallel. This parallel combination of 10K and 230K is about 9.6K.
This makes a voltage divider with 500K on top and 9.6K on the bottom, which lets 1.2 % of the signal go into the 220K/10K voltage divider. That divider lets 4.3% of the 1.2% go out the output jack, which is about .05% of the full signal. So for 1V of signal coming off the plate of the tube, you'd have .0005 V - half a millivolt - at the output.
In dB terms, that's -65 dB compared to the full signal, which is pretty far below. And the tone pot POT4 actually reduces the amount of the signal coming out the jack a little more (depending on frequency and where the pot is set.)
If you are getting much signal out the output, you may have it wired incorrectly, 65 dB is a pretty deep cut. However, it is true that that circuit wired correctly will only cut the signal completely if the tone pot POT4 is also all the way down too - that would ground the output jack for AC.
Okay, here's my effort. I bought the stuff for valve guards in a hardware store. Professional built ones are nice, but not necessary. Something else to note: you might want to look for a beefier inductor. The one I'm using right now is rated for 2.1A and 85C(max) operation. Gets too hot!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vyokikutolo1jxu/IMG_08966.png
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hglyzgaj64lc1h5/IMG_0936.JPG?m
https://www.dropbox.com/s/afccu1m0dtprvps/IMG_0937.JPG?m
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1rk5qhz0i30zqz8/IMG_0941.JPG?m
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ygcp8bxovzawbn9/IMG_0943.JPG?m
https://www.dropbox.com/s/niamu4uoka5e69f/IMG_0949.JPG?m
Looks nice! You've done a good job on those tube guards, I could easily mistake those for professional ones.
My experience with boost converters like the one found in this pedal is that the inductor does get quite warm even with a 5 amp one (http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=LF1270&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=970#1)
Quote from: psychedelicfish on September 13, 2013, 06:17:10 PM
Looks nice! You've done a good job on those tube guards, I could easily mistake those for professional ones.
My experience with boost converters like the one found in this pedal is that the inductor does get quite warm even with a 5 amp one (http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=LF1270&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=970#1)
Thanks! I'm about to install a 5A inductor, except not a toroidal one, as displayed in that picture. Here's a quote from this thread:
Quote from: Hilli on April 19, 2012, 05:37:15 PM
I had the same problem first, the IRF was overheated and destroyed in a very short time. The reason was that I used a toroidal inductor. They are unsuitable for this project.
Please upload pictures.
I was wondering what the reason is? Why do they behave in this circuit the way they do?
I have a question, maybe stupid one. Actally bunch of stupid questions.
Is there a particular reason for electrolytics in C11 (psu), C1, C2, C12 and C13. Ref des's are based on Hilli's redrawn sch from post #243. all these values with those voltage ratings are realistical for ceramic caps aswell.
Also, would an amz tonestack work?
Can the mosfet heatsink be connected to the chasis or ground plane, or is it electrically connected to some potential and needs to be floating. (sry havent gone through the datasheet for that particular mosfet yet)
This will definitely be my next build. I've been searching so long for something with tubes.
Somebody above was concerned that the vol won't go all the way down. Everything i've heard about that pedal is that you really don't want to dial down. Besides, when ever do you dial vol all the way down on any of your pedals. I understand that it's a matter of principle but also all pedals are made to be heard and there is no real purpose for muting a pedal, imho.
Also has anyone measured the "ambient" temp of that pedal when it has been working for some time. I recon it will be hot in there but how hot. Partly this question relates to my first question about electrolytics since their lifespan is directly affected by temperature.
Can i switch between different value caps for the first cathode bypass with lets say spdt. I mean would the different value caps have a result or would they or switching itself hurt the tube in V1. I dont have much exp with tubes so thats why all those stupid questions :)
Hi, i saw this post and I was willing to make this pedal. I tried to make the design to fit in a 1590BB box. I wonder if anyone can find fault in this project onboard. I'm a little unsure because this will be my first pedal Valved. My main questions are:
1 - The trails are too thin to work with high voltage? There is a minimum thickness for this?
2 - The connections that I added to get onboard are correct? I refer to the 3pdt switch and jacks.
Can i carry out the project, or have to make any changes?
PS.: Sorry for my english. I'm use google translator to help me :)
(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/7724/jo2c.jpg)
I'm getting a little lost in the filament wiring here - is pin 4 supposed to be at ground? If so, pin 9 being open is correct.
I wouldn't worry too much about anything other than the filament for power because it has to take 300 mA into the board. The problem with high voltage is not the size of the conductors (which only take a few milliamps) but the spacing between the conductors and the ground plane. I would also eliminate any floating areas like the one beside pin 6 on the left hand tube. Just looking at your question 1 at the moment.
Yes amptramp, the pin 4 is on GND and pin 9 is open. I do not quite understand what u mean by "Eliminate any floating areas like the one beside pin 6", I need to remove the ground plane between the conductors under the left tube? Thank you for your attention :)
Quote from: fagnermonteiro on November 20, 2013, 11:12:44 PM
Yes amptramp, the pin 4 is on GND and pin 9 is open. I do not quite understand what u mean by "Eliminate any floating areas like the one beside pin 6", I need to remove the ground plane between the conductors under the left tube? Thank you for your attention :)
Yes.
Already bought and am hoping components arrive to start building. I'll put here the pictures of the process. Thanks
Quote from: fagnermonteiro on November 20, 2013, 11:12:44 PM
Yes amptramp, the pin 4 is on GND and pin 9 is open. I do not quite understand what u mean by "Eliminate any floating areas like the one beside pin 6", I need to remove the ground plane between the conductors under the left tube? Thank you for your attention :)
Look at the left tube to the left of pin 6. You have a conductor that goes between pins 5 and 6 and below it a conductor from pin 6. Between them, there appears to be a floating conductor section that is not connected to anything. This is generally a bad idea as it will charge up to some indeterminate voltage and couple capacitively to other parts of the circuit. In other words, it is an antenna. It may not make much difference in this case or it may be significant.
Ok .. I redesigned the layout and removed the orphan islands. This should resolve the potential problem, right? It was better this way, amptramp? The credits of the project is in accordance with the rules of the forum? Thanks.
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/4647/vpl4.jpg)
Jesusss... well done guys! I'm back in business after a not so happy year for me, so i guess we will see much often on the forum. Again is nice to see that the work was not in vain.
Best regards,
Still me, Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hi Gabriel
some time ago you wrote that you are looking for a better way to generate the high voltage. Have you already found the time for this?
Regards, Bernd
Not necessarily a better way ... but an optimized one, yes, i've made some tests and the answer is ATTINY 25/45/85 with PWM and ADC so you can adjust duty cycle as a safety feature (if the current demand is too high then you can cut the fill factor to 0 so, you can stop the conducting device, in our case the FET) - but i do believe that there are also specialized IC for this thing.
I will try to gather all my info and post it here.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: I'm still batting on a uC rather then a specialized IC :D
Can't wait to see it. Thanks so much.
A new one. :icon_smile: Regards, Hilli
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTFO.jpg)
Found this, kinda interesting... Russian but translates fairly well.
http://bsvi.ru/impulsnyj-preobrazovatel-dlya-lampovyx-predusilitelej/#more-397
Have said it before but I will say it again... Hilli, your boxes are SICK!! :icon_twisted:
Yes J0K3RX, is a standard configuration of a Flyback topology .... is a little difficult because of the Xformer, and not only the xformer but also the size of it. If you have the space to build a SMPS of that size ... then i could use a transformer :D
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
PS: I've managed to burn 2xATTINY 23 ... i almost forgot that is always the magic smoke that drives them.
@Hilli: what size is that box? And ..man you are "sick" they look beautiful. What kind of stainless steel are those?
Good idea mounting the inductor coil off-board :icon_wink:
Quote from: gtudoran on December 03, 2013, 01:18:08 AM
Yes J0K3RX, is a standard configuration of a Flyback topology .... is a little difficult because of the Xformer, and not only the xformer but also the size of it. If you have the space to build a SMPS of that size ... then i could use a transformer :D
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
PS: I've managed to burn 2xATTINY 23 ... i almost forgot that is always the magic smoke that drives them.
@Hilli: what size is that box? And ..man you are "sick" they look beautiful. What kind of stainless steel are those?
yeah.. the xformer is pretty small or I wouldn't even have considered it. Probably stick with what you came up with, very simple :icon_wink:
Hmmm i will try to build one... if i will find some cores to buy, i will keep you informed guys.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hey Guys,
Thanks!!! :icon_biggrin: The enclosure is from "Musikding" http://www.musikding.de/Alu-Gehaeuse-Typ-JJ
It is a little bit BIGGER than a BB. I think it's better to have more space when you work with 350V. The material is Aluminium diecast.
@Jim: cool schematic. Hope it works.
Bye, Hilli.
Quote from: Hilli on December 02, 2013, 04:49:02 PM
A new one. :icon_smile: Regards, Hilli
(http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/GTFO.jpg)
Hi Hilli, could You please post your layout ready to print and the component list?, I would build a new one but there are so many files in this thread and I'm a bit confused..
Many thanks in advance!
M.
Quote from: fagnermonteiro on November 21, 2013, 01:33:18 PM
Ok .. I redesigned the layout and removed the orphan islands. This should resolve the potential problem, right? It was better this way, amptramp? The credits of the project is in accordance with the rules of the forum? Thanks.
(http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/4647/vpl4.jpg)
Hi fagnermonteiro, did You carry on project realization?
I'm really interested in your mods, cause I would put it into a 1590BB case...did You finish it?
Could You please give to me your eagle sch and brd files of this project?
Thank You very much!!
Great job!
Hi bianghouse
this should be the files I used. You can open the *.SVG file with programs like Inkscape.
Regards Hilli
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Dokumente/GTFO.svg
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Dokumente/bom.doc
Hi fagnermonteiro,
would you send us your layout-files? That would be cool. :icon_cool:
Redards, Hilli
Quote from: Hilli on December 10, 2013, 12:08:14 PM
Hi bianghouse
this should be the files I used. You can open the *.SVG file with programs like Inkscape.
Regards Hilli
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Dokumente/GTFO.svg
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Dokumente/bom.doc
Thank you very much sir!!
Here is the same file as ready-to-print pdf.
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Dokumente/GTFO.pdf
Hilli
So I decided to build this beast and this is my result :)
The schematic is based on Hillis latest build with the bypass from first stage... The layout is all me... made a small mistake and mirrored the 12ax7 footprint so had to use wires to correct it (first build using tubes :))... also the size of the pcb is exactly for the enclosure i used... These I get from my workplace and are custom made for our use...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gny7m16lin78p9h/IMG_0336.JPG (https://www.dropbox.com/s/gny7m16lin78p9h/IMG_0336.JPG)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rse96iep9htmeuo/IMG_0349.JPG (https://www.dropbox.com/s/rse96iep9htmeuo/IMG_0349.JPG)
Still have some issues though... some ground noise is present, have to trace the issue... SMPS will go over 400V in my case (I have a 2k trimpot)... Strange or not so much?
Also i hoped for tighter sounding gain, more of a modern touch, are there any mods to implement that?
Wow, that looks very nice man. Well done!
I noticed that when I dial the SMPS over 150V with gain maxed the amplifier becomes a generator and I still getting a strong hum... I took a oscilloscope and noticed that the output waveform has little hairs spaced 80kHz apart... I traced it to 555 and the trigering freq is the same, 80kHz... also there is some strange waveform on the collector of the transistor, mostly garbage, looks like a diminishing sine with dc offset to the positive side and some other kind of signal overlapping it... does it have to be like that or is the smps supposed to work like that...
also do any of you have a good way of tracing ground bleed at some point to minimize hum and or to find a fault... maybe i left some trace clearence too small and the high voltage wants to take the short way to ground and capacitively couples to ground...
trying to figure these things out and need to learn more
thanks for any pointers you can give me
I'm adding a pdf containing the schematic I redrew and the layout i made (not to scale!!!)... I used PADS 9.2 and it can generate a interactive pdf so you can trace the schematic or layout by nets or single components... maybe I made a mistake or my layout technique is lacking or could be better... on this layout i fixed the tube pinout error without moving any of the components around... maybe you can spot something that i can address for ver2.0 of this an possibly getting it noiseless and right
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9cvfaust5e4nwoh/GTFO_sch_layout.pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/s/9cvfaust5e4nwoh/GTFO_sch_layout.pdf)
you possibly need to download the pdf... firefox pdf viewer crops the edges of the schematic... but opening the file on hdd yields the correct picture in my case...
Merry Christmas to everyone :)
So far I have tried:
2ohm in series after the dc jack positive pin... this is as much as I can go because of the enormous voltage drop across a resistor in this circuit... calculated current usage is somewhere between 200-300 mA... the 470uf capacitor from +12V input to ground is suposed to act as a low pass filter even though it doesn't have a resistor before, but the traces going there act as a small resistor?
i also tried ground lifting... 10ohm between the effect ground and dc jack ground pin... ground is aprox at 3V atm
i cut the +12V trace going to the heaters and used an alternate power source for them
i removed the tube sockets and put shielded wire between the socket and the pcb
I tried sound probing... in bypass mode the tonestack (i know it's not in play when bypassed, but went over it anyway) components give out a high-pitched periodic sound... i guess the triger from 555 bleed through since even though bypassed from the first stage the others are still working and want something in their inputs... also the input resistors when touched with the capacitor give out a bangy noise, maybe it's just because of their sensitivity since they are there to prevent that noise when inserting a jack when the device is powered... some other components do that also, a few near V1 but component around V2 don't... i don't know if this is a indication of anything but i'm pretty much out of option short of redesigning everything and ordering a new pcb that might not improve anything anyway, so need to fix it, or if I can't then just find the cause so i can design a new pcb trying to avoid the mistakes i have made with this one...
maybe i'll try and replace the trimmer with fixed resistors since i already thought about that possibility and designed my layout accordingly when i find a good setting i like since everything i have gathered about trimmers from various sources is that they are noisy.
any help you can give my, your expertise, your experience?
Thanks :)
Hey Uriziel,
Hmm there is smth i would like to say: why did you use SMD?? There is a reason why i didn't use SMD in the first place (i could do that but... is much easy to use THD components and also the space is bigger so the interference is smaller). I harder to use SMD components in this design. I saw a lot of vias and a lot of traces that goes under components... that i guess generates a lot of interference.
I just an idea and nothing more, but i would recommend to stick with the original THD design ... you could build the SMPS with SMD components but i would stick to THD on audio signal parts. There is also a reason why the smps is placed in that place. Keep in mind that the SMPS that is used is... a very rudimentary one and was chosen for the small parts count and for the size and so ... the equilibrium is very thin.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: You can design a proper fly-back smps and that would solve much more of the problems.
PPS: Don't try to find solutions where there is no problem - i'm referring here to the separate heater PSU, i don't believe that ... DC heaters are better then AC ones in therms of musical quality if everything is designed properly.
Hey. I think that THD vs. SMD is more an ideological problem. One isn't better then the other. This project in particular has to have components with parameters high enough that the size comparison between smd and thd is negligable. I simply like smd more. And for me it's easier. The choise bwtween smd or thd is pretty much how easily can you get certain components and at whay price.
I think i just made some mistakes designing i guess. There would be traces going under thd components aswell so i don't think that is the cause. Vias are there to provide the shortest path to ground although they are placed totally randomly whereever i could fit them... I didn't see an issue in that since there aren't any sensitive ic's in the schematic that can't handle even small interfetences. As far as i have seen, there are designs of this project that are much more compact than mine.
Since i don't know where is the actual issue, i'm just trying diferent things that come to mind. And it is my first experience with tubes and i have a simple learning process.
No offence intended and by far no argue about THD vs SMD (i'm using SMD all the time - more in the digital field but that is my preference) Just said that you are more prone to mistakes when using SMD (especially when working with tubes).
Ohh a question, where can i find SMD capacitors for high voltage?! i saw that you used some there and i would like to know where i can buy some.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: Uriziel on December 24, 2013, 07:30:01 PM
any help you can give my, your expertise, your experience?
Here's something that I would try based on your troubles:
Hopefully you have another 100uH 3A part in hand, same as L1. If so, at the connection between D1 and R4, try breaking the connection from there to C4. Then connect that path back together using that spare 100uH inductor. You'd basically be making a two-pole LC filter instead of relying on an RC filter, which as you point out, is too wasteful of voltage in this circuit to be useful. The cutoff frequency of the LC filter would be 7.3KHz and drops 12 dB per octave so it would be very effective at 80 kHz, roughly 40 dB down or 1/100 of the noise voltages that you have now. It will filter the DC into your HV supply node quite well, and especially clean up high frequency hash. Not so perfect at 60 and 120 Hz for filtering mains frequencies, but those are already gone in the SMPS arrangement anyway. (That's why you typically see much, much larger inductor values in "old-school" linear tube power supply filters - they're there for filtering mains hum, not hash.)
You might (assuming the filter is not "cutting" it [pun intended]) parallel the 4.7 uF capacitor with a small ceramic cap of whatever value you happen to have around, say 1000 pF, because ceramic caps are typically able to maintain low ESR up into very high frequencies, where standard electrolytics can start developing a larger ESR component. In this way you'd have very effective filtering path as well as a large reservoir for transient demands in the 4.7 uF cap.
While you're breaking out the 1000 pF ceramics, connect each heater pin to ground with a cap to prevent coupling of HF through the heaters. This is usually only a problem with very high-gm tubes (which the 12AX7 really is not) so it's more of a belt & suspenders move than a necessary one.
High frequency oscillation problems often masquerade as other problems: excessive hum, excessive microphonics. If your tubes are oscillating at 80kHz, that may show up in the audible spectrum riding on small perturbations that would be negligible without the HF hash. The fact that you have a scope fast and sensitive enough to see your 80kHz problems means you have the tool to verify a kill once you take measure against them.
Quote
i removed the tube sockets and put shielded wire between the socket and the pcb
What was the shield on those wires connected to, and which connections did you shield? I'd say that's not going to really help matters any, I've never even seen that done - so it's certainly not a necessary effort.
I like your layout, a lot! But, there maybe some geographical things going on here? I don't see why it would be that you used surface mount even though it's not used solely in very many tube amp/preamp designs that I am aware of. Even pedals like Blackstar use a mix of through hole and SMT so, I am not sure of the pros and cons or if there are any at all? We do know that Gabriels design works pretty much "hum free" at least the couple that I have built have been amazingly quiet! Assuming that all of your components are good the only inconsistency is the layout. Have you tried wiring the input and output jacks off-board from the closest points, not where the jacks are mounted from? Maybe it has something to do with the jacks being where they are?
Quote from: gtudoran on December 27, 2013, 03:07:57 PM
No offence intended and by far no argue about THD vs SMD (i'm using SMD all the time - more in the digital field but that is my preference) Just said that you are more prone to mistakes when using SMD (especially when working with tubes).
Ohh a question, where can i find SMD capacitors for high voltage?! i saw that you used some there and i would like to know where i can buy some.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hey,
I didn't take as offence in any way :)
I understand what you were implying and I am simply experimenting in my own way since i believe there isn't a right or wrong way of doing things. Even though in some cases there is proof for why some parts of the layout use certain type of parts... though i'm inclined to believe that mostly it would apply to the black magic of rf design and the digital realm... perhaps i'm wrong but that is why we all learn :)
Also all of the capacitors used I ordered from www.farnell.com (http://www.farnell.com) They have distribution points in UK and USA (under the name of Newark or element14 in general)...
Quote from: tubegeek on December 27, 2013, 04:56:43 PM
Here's something that I would try based on your troubles:
Hopefully you have another 100uH 3A part in hand, same as L1.
Sadly I don't... I don't have much experience with inductors but i will certainly try that... maybe i can reuse something from older piece of electronics or I will just order a new one...
Quote from: tubegeek on December 27, 2013, 04:56:43 PM
Not so perfect at 60 and 120 Hz
In my part of the world its 50Hz and 100Hz for sine and rectified sine respectfully... Shouldn't affect much
Quote from: tubegeek on December 27, 2013, 04:56:43 PM
What was the shield on those wires connected to...
I connected all the shields together at the tube end and i used shielded wire for all of the connections, besides pin 4 that is gnd and pin 9 that is nc... and I connected the shield to tube end gnd...
Quote from: J0K3RX on December 27, 2013, 09:19:43 PM
...there maybe some geographical things going on here?...Have you tried wiring the input and output jacks off-board from the closest points...
I can't think of a reason why it would make any difference but hey worth a try...
Can't do anything about the layout now but when i can't seem to find the source no matter what then i'm thinking about adjusting the layout to geographically look like the best noiseless version of it so far. Since I anyway need to fit it in the same box, the tubes and the jacks and the pots need to stay where they are, but anything else can move around... maybe that will help somewhat...
About the blackstar, I think that the mix of SMT and thru-hole is somewhat a price considerations because when you look the prices of SMT's, specially HV ones then they greatly surpass the prices of THD components... not a considerable amount if you buy small quantities but at larger quantities you may start to notice the difference... Alse certain techologies eg. Silver Mica is not available in SMT and electrolytics usually have shorter lifetimes unless you are willing to spend a fortune... The resistors I use a MELF so they are pretty much the same as 6mm resistors w/o the leads... again pretty much most of the techologies used for THD have equivalents for SMD aswell and with the same level of quality... nothing else is changed but the enclosure for better us in reflow or wave soldering applications... imho...
I tried all of the suggestions above... ceramic cap, parallel to 4.7u electrolytic... decoupling caps to the heaters... two pole LC filter... on the oscilloscope that showed promise but testing through an amplifier it was clear that nothing had really changed... the noise level was the same as before... still need to try lifting the jacks of and maybe i'll even leave out the input resistors... the input seems too sensitive to me and i believe the noise comes from there and is amplified so it's quite impossible to filter it out afterwards w/o significant loss to the sound... it effectively acts as an antenna but instead of radiowaves it picks up the ground level noise... maybe if i try decoupling input to ground?
i ordered some larger caps and i'm thinking of replacing the 470u cap before the 555 to something like 1000uf and the 4.7u cap to something like 22u or 33u
i also tried reheating every component in case of cold solder spots but nothing... i think the fault is somewhat more fundamental than mere fiddling with values and filtering out unwanted waveforms since by now there should have been an audible difference to the changes i have already made, but everything is the same
You must be coupling the noise in via the ground traces if the scope looked good but the result was bad. Hmm. Thinking....
So I'm still kinda new to this, but I'm COMPLETELY IN LOVE with this pedal. Is there by chance a vero layout floating around for this? Because that would make a lot of beginners REALLY happy :D
Trace the schematic and try to make a vero layout yourself. Then you can post it here and you'll get feedback from the community about if, what and how to change. It's a pretty good way to learn for possible future projects. :)
Quote from: Uriziel on January 03, 2014, 09:32:32 AM
Trace the schematic and try to make a vero layout yourself. Then you can post it here and you'll get feedback from the community about if, what and how to change. It's a pretty good way to learn for possible future projects. :)
Started on the layout last night and fell asleep doing it :P It would be easier if someone already had one, but doing it myself will be a great learning experience :) I'll probably finish it up and get it posted tonight.
Okay, so I just finished my vero layout on paper (I've been doing it on graph paper during downtime at work :P), and hopefully tonight I'll get it all put into the layout creator when I get home.
Keep in mind this is the first vero layout I've ever done, so I'm expecting there to be mistakes and I'm expecting some constructive feedback :D
One question I came across as I was doing it though, where's pot #2? I see pot 1, 3, 4, and 5 on the layout, but I'm not seeing #2. Help? :)
Okay, so I just finished my vero layout for this. I know there's tons of people on here that know a lot more about this than I do, so PLEASE share you expertise by taking a look at this and letting me know what's wrong and what I can do to fix it :)
I'm uploading the image file so you can take a quick look, and I'm also uploading the DIY layout file, so you can take a better look and maybe even fix some things for me :D
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3vpedakzcmwd46o/gtfo%20vero%20v01.png
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ozunrutw3wj3a3/gtfo%20vero.diy
You'll notice I set a lot of things up off the board to just do point-to-point, because my soldering skills are significantly better than my board layout skills :P
Hi vigilante ...
very nice layout you posted ! I am also in the process of populating the parts for this project... do you mind take a pic of your done velro board? does it fit into a 6500 enclosure?
mind to ask how do you intend to sort out the tube sockets? do you intend to mount it on a Velro board as well?
If you guys are gonna do this on vero with the tubes not connected to the main board you might consider mounting the tubes so the are parallel to the enclosure. That way you can enclose them inside the box so they are not protruding out of the top of the pedal? I know the tubes look cool sticking outa the top like a blower sitting ontop of the hood of a 69 camero... but even with the roll bars it scares me and I could still damage them easily..
I know these are not vero but just to give you some idea of what I am talking about..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/Layout.PNG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/0_725ae_8e07ad72_XL.jpeg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/0_73dfb_84dcecb5_XXXL.jpeg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/1002.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/ET%20GUTS.jpg)
I still trying to getta answer if I could getta conventional PCB tube socket type to mount it on a velro board?
I still like the idea of the two 12ax7 half way protruding out from the pedal box and with handle bars sticking out...
while waiting for my parts to come ! i'll maybe try to draw out a layout plan ? i'll already spent somewhat 100 USD on the kit lol...
btw that's a massive tone controls you did !
Hey J0K3RX what is this factory :D can you explain it?! And nice design btw very nice design! Congrats.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 05, 2014, 01:03:59 AM
If you guys are gonna do this on vero with the tubes not connected to the main board you might consider mounting the tubes so the are parallel to the enclosure. That way you can enclose them inside the box so they are not protruding out of the top of the pedal? I know the tubes look cool sticking outa the top like a blower sitting ontop of the hood of a 69 camero... but even with the roll bars it scares me and I could still damage them easily..
I know these are not vero but just to give you some idea of what I am talking about..
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/Layout.PNG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/0_725ae_8e07ad72_XL.jpeg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/0_73dfb_84dcecb5_XXXL.jpeg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/1002.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/SLOTUBE/ET%20GUTS.jpg)
Quote from: hopkinWFG on January 04, 2014, 10:54:07 PM
Hi vigilante ...
very nice layout you posted ! I am also in the process of populating the parts for this project... do you mind take a pic of your done velro board? does it fit into a 6500 enclosure?
mind to ask how do you intend to sort out the tube sockets? do you intend to mount it on a Velro board as well?
Thanks, I'm also still waiting on my parts for this project. I think mine also cost close to $100 :P But if it works then it will be worth it :D I haven't build it yet so I don't really know how big the board will be. When I made the layout I spaced it out more than I needed to just to make it easier to read, so it could potentially be about half the size I made it :P
I was planning to mount the tube sockets on top like I did on this one: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbsqrn1kcm3dgfp/twincaster-vigilante.jpg
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 05, 2014, 01:03:59 AM
If you guys are gonna do this on vero with the tubes not connected to the main board you might consider mounting the tubes so the are parallel to the enclosure. That way you can enclose them inside the box so they are not protruding out of the top of the pedal? I know the tubes look cool sticking outa the top like a blower sitting ontop of the hood of a 69 camero... but even with the roll bars it scares me and I could still damage them easily..
I know these are not vero but just to give you some idea of what I am talking about..
I know putting the tubes inside the enclosure would make it a lot more secure, and the blue glow out the sides looks AMAZING on that build, but I've had some nightmare builds where I overcrowded the inside of the box and it was a huge headache to get everything done. One of the main reasons I really want to get into PCB etching is because of how much space and clutter it reduces, not to mention the simplicity and organization. But while I'm using vero and point-to-point on the tube sockets I really think my best option is to put the tubes up top.
When my tube pedals (slightly modded Matsumin Valve Caster and Twincaster) are not plugged in and in use the tubes are removed, put into boxes, and stored in my tubes drawer. I've broken one tube in my life and now I'm super paranoid about it, so I definitely understand where you're coming from.
So anyway, my parts for this should all be here in about two weeks (economy shipping :P), so hopefully I'll have time to get going on this even with the new semester starting tomorrow for me :)
Also, before I forget again, there are two components I still haven't ordered because I want to make sure I'm getting the right thing:
- 100uH inductor: I read through the posts again on this thread and I think I know what to get now, so I can order that today
- Pot #5: I understand this is just a trimmer pot, but I don't see anywhere in the parts list what the value should be, and I'm having trouble even finding the things on Tayda.
Help please? :)
Okay, so I found the trimmer pots on Tayda, but I still don't know what value I'm supposed to be getting. Anyone? ???
vigilante397: anything from 10k to 20k would work very good.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: gtudoran on January 05, 2014, 03:05:28 PM
vigilante397: anything from 10k to 20k would work very good.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Wasn't it 5k trim with effective range up to 2k... i remember someone in this topic did some measurements with different pot values and got that values over 2k were pretty much unnecessary since everything over that will just cause the voltage to be too low for the full effect to be heard... i used a 2k trimpot myself...
That someone was mr. PRR somewhere on page 4 of this thread
What i wanted to say was, that the value is not critical and you can stick anything there (it will not do any harm as it will not do any good :) )
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
hi All,
I like this project very much! And I'm going to build it!
a few questions..
1 with the tonestack installed, is there a loss of gain, or a loss in tone?
2 which pots has to be log/audio or lin?
thank you very much?
Grtz Jim
@JimSoprano: for the original build volume and gain should be log (A type), tone pot should be linear (B type).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: for the tone-stack mod bass pot should be Log and the rest Lin
Quote from: gtudoran on January 06, 2014, 03:33:11 PM
@JimSoprano: for the original build volume and gain should be log (A type), tone pot should be linear (B type).
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: for the tone-stack mod bass pot should be Log and the rest Lin
thanks for the info Gabriel. What do you know about the gain and tonal differences between the tone and bmt versions?
Quote from: vigilante397 on January 05, 2014, 01:00:07 PM
Quote from: hopkinWFG on January 04, 2014, 10:54:07 PM
Hi vigilante ...
very nice layout you posted ! I am also in the process of populating the parts for this project... do you mind take a pic of your done velro board? does it fit into a 6500 enclosure?
mind to ask how do you intend to sort out the tube sockets? do you intend to mount it on a Velro board as well?
Thanks, I'm also still waiting on my parts for this project. I think mine also cost close to $100 :P But if it works then it will be worth it :D I haven't build it yet so I don't really know how big the board will be. When I made the layout I spaced it out more than I needed to just to make it easier to read, so it could potentially be about half the size I made it :P
I was planning to mount the tube sockets on top like I did on this one: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbsqrn1kcm3dgfp/twincaster-vigilante.jpg
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 05, 2014, 01:03:59 AM
If you guys are gonna do this on vero with the tubes not connected to the main board you might consider mounting the tubes so the are parallel to the enclosure. That way you can enclose them inside the box so they are not protruding out of the top of the pedal? I know the tubes look cool sticking outa the top like a blower sitting ontop of the hood of a 69 camero... but even with the roll bars it scares me and I could still damage them easily..
I know these are not vero but just to give you some idea of what I am talking about..
I know putting the tubes inside the enclosure would make it a lot more secure, and the blue glow out the sides looks AMAZING on that build, but I've had some nightmare builds where I overcrowded the inside of the box and it was a huge headache to get everything done. One of the main reasons I really want to get into PCB etching is because of how much space and clutter it reduces, not to mention the simplicity and organization. But while I'm using vero and point-to-point on the tube sockets I really think my best option is to put the tubes up top.
When my tube pedals (slightly modded Matsumin Valve Caster and Twincaster) are not plugged in and in use the tubes are removed, put into boxes, and stored in my tubes drawer. I've broken one tube in my life and now I'm super paranoid about it, so I definitely understand where you're coming from.
So anyway, my parts for this should all be here in about two weeks (economy shipping :P), so hopefully I'll have time to get going on this even with the new semester starting tomorrow for me :)
yup... but thing is I heard doing this project using vero board is not going to withstand the high voltage circuit here... as a kind soul just told me so and it sounds logical.. i'll be wiser on a 1/8" turret board for circuit which relates to HV...
I hope to settle the PSU first as I think its the most problematic with the correct parts at the correct output you want.. as told I may want something tight sounding not too high on gain but also to have slight "hair" on the tone itself.. seems like 350V as per told is great for a full tube sound....
Hi all,
my first post here. I've been lurking a bit, and now I want to sink my teeth into this project (the hilli variant on page 12, reply 243). I am making my own PCB lay out, which will contain two power sources too. One to make the 310, and a separate to maken 6,3V=, stabilized and humm free, for the glow wires. It will not so much become a stompbox, as a separate pre-amp. All info on it is clear so far, I have just one question left (untill I have another). How many amps should the power source be able to supply? Either including or excluding the glow wires?
Cheers,
Hugo
12v @ 1.2A including heaters would be more then enough (is what i use). And why would you go with 6.3V for heaters when you could user 12.6V (12V) for heaters as you already use 12V to power up the pedal?
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hi Gabriel, excelent proyect. I have one question: the power supply must be regulated? say with an LM3117? because of the amperes, A fixed regulator like the 7812 will not go further than 1A I think. Cheers!
It's not necessarily to be regulated. I use switch-mode PSU and everything is fine and quiet as a forest in a winter night :D
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Quote from: gtudoran on January 14, 2014, 04:51:15 AM... And why would you go with 6.3V for heaters when you could user 12.6V (12V) for heaters as you already use 12V to power up the pedal?
Thanks for the details. To answer your question; the plan is to mate is as a pre amp to a firefly-like power amp. So I will have a transformer taking 240V to power the lot. I will not use a 12V power source for the pre-amp and still use a 'regular' power source for the power amp.
Cheers,
Hugo
So I finally have all the parts to get this thing together (despite the postman delivering some to the wrong address >:(), now all I need is another 3-day weekend to actually get going on my vero layout. Between school, work, and about 4 other builds I'm working on I just haven't gotten around to this one. Has anyone else had a chance to try out my vero layout? Because as far as I know it's REALLY unverified. But I'll let everyone know how it goes when I get around to it :)
Hi All!
Is there an eagle file available of the pcb?
can't find anyone who can make the pcb with a pdf layout.
thanks in advance.
grtz Jim
Quote from: gtudoran on December 26, 2013, 03:58:34 PM
Hey Uriziel,
Hmm there is smth i would like to say: why did you use SMD?? There is a reason why i didn't use SMD in the first place (i could do that but... is much easy to use THD components and also the space is bigger so the interference is smaller). I harder to use SMD components in this design. I saw a lot of vias and a lot of traces that goes under components... that i guess generates a lot of interference.
I just an idea and nothing more, but i would recommend to stick with the original THD design ... you could build the SMPS with SMD components but i would stick to THD on audio signal parts. There is also a reason why the smps is placed in that place. Keep in mind that the SMPS that is used is... a very rudimentary one and was chosen for the small parts count and for the size and so ... the equilibrium is very thin.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
PS: You can design a proper fly-back smps and that would solve much more of the problems.
PPS: Don't try to find solutions where there is no problem - i'm referring here to the separate heater PSU, i don't believe that ... DC heaters are better then AC ones in therms of musical quality if everything is designed properly.
So I have put that project aside for a while and recently came back to it... I made a redesign of my pcb, first i tried to use the same topolgy as my first board, then i used fairly similar part placement ideas as the original from Analog Sound that is floating around here... i switched to thd components for everything (before i used smd components)... And the result for both cases: still the same, nothing has changed... i get a lot of hum and noise, mainly hum... i tried switching the PSU i use... i tried RC filtering in the psu part of the schematic... that made the noise even worse... i took out all the pots and used jumpers to bypass the gain pot and tonestack... i tried coupling caps in the signal path, decoupling caps in the power section... i tried bypassing various gain stages to try to atleast pinpoint the source of all my worries and even that I am unable to do... no matter what i do the hum is always present... i checked my guitar for faulty wiring and everything was fine... all the other pedals i have are very quiet... i changed the tubes i used and then changed them again and still nothing... no matter what i do the sound doesn't change except when i put an eq after but that is logical... with that i atleast found out that there is some level of hum at pretty much all the frequencies the amp can produce... so mains hum... this one is an elusive bastard it seems... i read about some hum cancelling techniques used with tubes and some texts say that sometimes the hum can be eliminated if you bias the heaters, but that is when they run with ac... with dc i am unsure that technique applies... sound probe doesn't work here since there is some hum even when the effect is "bypassed" (i use the Hilli version)... on one page there was a mention of using a resistor with one end to ground and the other end to touch the leads of various points in the schematic, mainly caps, while the effect was working to see if it would have some effect... would it help if I tried trimpots instead of anode resistors to try to set the bias manually? actually i remembered that the only effect i had on the sound of the hum was when i put something metal near the inductor... i used an aluminum screen and the hum seemed to raise in pitch but other then that i haven't had much progress
does anybody have any suggestions for me...
Sorry guys, but I had some problems and could not continue the project. Now going back to try to do this will be my first tube effect.
Quote from: bianghouse on December 10, 2013, 10:16:04 AM
Hi fagnermonteiro, did You carry on project realization?
I'm really interested in your mods, cause I would put it into a 1590BB case...did You finish it?
Could You please give to me your eagle sch and brd files of this project?
Thank You very much!!
Great job!
Quote from: Hilli on December 10, 2013, 02:44:49 PM
Hi fagnermonteiro,
would you send us your layout-files? That would be cool. :icon_cool:
Redards, Hilli
Of course I will share the files with you. I'm learning a lot here and I need you to refine the layout I made to make it as best as possible for everyone. :)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2mt4ng3erhemytg/GTFO%20Pedal.sch (https://www.dropbox.com/s/2mt4ng3erhemytg/GTFO%20Pedal.sch)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b7hrj7cxtiuykpr/GTFO%20Pedal.brd (https://www.dropbox.com/s/b7hrj7cxtiuykpr/GTFO%20Pedal.brd)
PS: Sorry for my bad english. I'm studying the language :icon_redface:
I have some issues with that circuit aswell, regarding some noise issues that i cant seem to get rid of. But skimming through your layout i noticed that you have tied the input and output jack control pins together with their respective functional pins. While it is not wrong, since you dont have a control circuit utilizing any possibilities that those control pins can give, you dont actually need to do so. Just connect the input and output trace to the tip pin of the jack and use the sleeve pin for ground. The ring pin can be unused since guitar is a mono instrument anyway. Leave the control pins unconnected. (Strangely stereo jacks are much cheaper that mono jacks from the same manufacturer.) Also the position of those jacks can cause you some headache. If you use pcb mounted jacks then you wont be able to put the board into an enclosure the same size as the board without routing a half circle from the edge of the casing to the height you desire. This will leave a big ugly hole. That is just esthetics, but still you would like to have your stomp sound amazing AND look good. Some traces are too close together near the valves. And if you want to let the board to be manufactured you need to think about your through-hole sizes, i think they are too big. Specially the 3pdt. It will just sink in those holes and it will be hard to position and solder since every millimeter will count. If you plan to etch the board yourself, use 0,3-0,5 mm holes and leave the pad diameter large enough for the pins of the component. I usually set the pad diameter twice the size of the pin/lead diameter, but as i said, for etching use a fairly small hole since it will act as a guide for your drill bit and you will be able to drill holes with better accuracy. In eagle there is actually a script called drill aid that lets you set the drill holes to the size you desire without the need to change every last layout component decal. You can allways drill a bigger hole. But if the hole diameter is set too big then when you drill you might lose in accuracy and possibly drill away a portion of the surrounding pad that can lead to solder bridges, bad contacts, components not able to be positioned through the holes because of the drill hole and pin pattern mismatch (adresses mostly components with firm pins (eg dpdt, 3pdt, 6.3mm pcb mounted jacks, low voltage power jacks, tube sockets etc) and rises with the number of pins, so high pin count dip packages will be harder to place. It is understandable that compromises can be made and most of my speech here is just about esthetics of the completed board but good practice of pcb layout design must be somewhere on your "list" aswell, where-ever applicable. But dont make your life overly complicated. A quick prototyping can be messy but every mess has a chance to induce unwanted noise. That is true in so many levels. You just experiment.
hello,
is anyone that can sell me 3 boards that i need????
Thanks
George
Hi There,
I'm busy with collecting all parts. I have not much of experience with all the rates of the parts.
For the BC547, can i use a BC547A, BC547B and/or BC547C?
Can i use for the resistors all rated for 0,6W?
Thank you,
grtz Jim
Yes and ... yes ... 1w is recommended but 0.6w will not blow :)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
I've tried to build the PSU, with no success.
I don't know what the pot value is.
Used 500k, 50k and 1K. No success. I feed the unit with 16V. No results.
IN place of the UF4004 diode, i use 1N4001.
Also there are no cap rating values so i cannot figure it out. I get no voltage at the Drain of the IRF740. I directly connected it at the 16V and it almost got "Fried".
I am so pissed off, anybody builds it, and cannot figure out what's wrong.
Well one thing is that you NEED to use UF series diodes, 1N400x is not fast enough. The maximum voltage rating for NE555 is 16v so ... you are very close to the upper limit, use 12Vdc and pay attention to polarity. Ohh and don't use a toroidal inductance you will need a classic one.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
The pot value can be anything between 1k and 20k (or more there is not a problem). But 1N400x .... it is a problem.
OK, i will try it that way.
All electrolytic capacitors (C1, C9, C11, C12, C13) should be 400V? My specific question is capacitor C9, it should be 400V or may have a lower voltage?
Thanks
Voltage ratings:
C1 - 1µF - 16V
C2 - 1µF - 16V
C3 - 22nF - 250V
C4 - 10nF - 250V
C5 - 22nF - 250V
C6 - 10nF - polyester 250V
C8 - 1n5 - polyester 63V
C9 - 470µ - electrolytic 16v
C10 - 100p - 2kV
C11 - 4.7µ - 400V
C12 - 10µF - 400V
C13 - 10µF - 400V
C14 - 470pF - ceramic 2kV
C15 - 1nF - polyester 2kV
Tone Stack (Hilli mod)
470pF (ceramic 2kV)
22nF (polyester 250V)
22nF (polyester 250V)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Why can't we use a Toroid inductor? I have some Ferrite cores on hand and could easily wind up some 100uh inductors.
Is there a technical reason? or does it just "not work" in practice.
Thanks!
Toroids saturate and you won't get the voltage you need
hmmm, it maybe depends on the core. well, it totally depends on the core. from the On semi app notes for the 34063 switcher, AN-920/D:
Quote
All circuits used molypermalloy power toroid cores for
the magnetics where only the inductance value is given. The
number of turns, wire and core size information is not given
since no attempt was made to optimize their design. Inductor
and transformer design information may be obtained from
the magnetic core and assembly companies listed on the
switching regulator component source table.
so, what cores do you have?
Quote from: Johan on June 29, 2014, 07:44:00 AM
Toroids saturate and you won't get the voltage you need
Most toroids saturate but others use ferrite held together with thick glue so that there is effectively a gap in the core and it takes far more to saturate. Plitron makes some toroid output transformers for single-ended power output applications using this technique:
http://www.plitron.com/standard-toroidal-transformers/tube-audio-transformers/tube-output-transformers/#SingleEnded
There is some interesting information on their site.
Interesting. I have some ferrite cores. FT23-43 to be exact. Using online calc's it should be 23 turns of 28awg magnet wire.
I've tried it and I only get 2v or so on the output no mater where i turn the pot.
I also have some SMD inductors but I think they are low wattage, they get extremely hot and the voltage just keeps dropping from 100+ to very low.
I guess I will have to order the correct parts!
the 43 material might not be the best choice for the frequency this circuit runs at.
I've been known to knock-up a 2/3 transistor LC oscillator on the breadboard. by picking the right-ish value capacitors, I can test the inductance at the frequency of interest, calculate or trim the inductance from there. this needs an oscilloscope or freq meter, but works for all types and shapes of inductors. within reason.
A new version of the GTFO (with dual gain pot and 2 mods normal/fat)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
(http://s30.postimg.org/o1a5t037h/IMG_2257.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/o1a5t037h/)
(http://s30.postimg.org/tqqedb9dp/IMG_2259.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/tqqedb9dp/)
(http://s30.postimg.org/lp6r95fzx/IMG_2261.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/lp6r95fzx/)
(http://s30.postimg.org/aaaa4j3nh/IMG_2262.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/aaaa4j3nh/)
(http://s30.postimg.org/gchwv0s3h/IMG_2263.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/gchwv0s3h/)
Beautiful Gabriel...love that box... what about some videos/audios? :icon_biggrin:
im still waiting on parts to complete this build but was just wondering if the power section of this could be used to make other tube pedals? ie tremolos/ phasers / reverbs?
Sure you can ... i've used in a lot of projects besides GTFO.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
what about a long tank spring reverb, that could slot into fx loop?
Quote from: gtudoran on July 11, 2014, 01:29:53 AM
A new version of the GTFO (with dual gain pot and 2 mods normal/fat)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hi gtudoran. The new version looks great! Do they work? Are the schematic/layout available?
Greetings, Hilli
Hi everybody,
This pedal is so amazing.I've just finished mine but I have a little problem that i can't understand.If I power only the heaters there's no problem.When i power the SMPS (alone or not) the voltage at the input decrease (switching mode PSU out @12,3VDC 1.2A),in other words the PSU is sitting.The weird thing is that the sitting varies with the trimmer for HV.Increasing the HV output causes the input voltage to decrease and viceversa.How is this possible?I've checked for short or something else wrong but i find nothing.I tried another PSU but with no results.Do you have an idea of this behavior?
Thank you in advice
> the PSU is sitting.
"Sagging".
> Increasing the HV output causes the input voltage to decrease and viceversa.
Higher HV means more power out of the SMPS. Your 12V source sags more.
Maybe the 12V supply is weak; however 12V@1.2A should be more than enough for this load.
Maybe you have way too much load on the HV? Like way-wrong resistor values, or shorted tubes or wires?
The other likely cause is that the SMPS is wasting a LOT of power, far more than the tube is getting.
Numbers may be more useful than "increase" "decrease".
Hmmm that is strange. Are you sure about the output current of your 12V power supply? I've just finished another build with the same topology - 12v @ 1A ... no problem with it and i can rise the anode voltage way over 400V (just a quick test because the FET is a 400v version).
@Hilli this will be a comercial version. Is 100% what is the GTFO just some caps that are switched (maybe... in the 2nd cathode of the 1st tube) and another gain pot that is switched ... i don't know ... maybe between the 2nd and 3rd gain stage :D
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
A small sample recorded with the 2 channel version of the GTFO.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15275178/demo%20gtfo.mp3 (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15275178/demo%20gtfo.mp3)
Best regards.
Here's my crack at it. I Added the full tone stack and changed the pcb to perfectly fit the components that I had on hand. I also tightly squeezed the whole tone stack onto the layout instead of wiring off board.
It's in a 1590C style USA made enclosure. Surprisingly the Taiwanese enclosures are much higher quality, and I don't have to grind off the raised brand name and made in USA writing inside the box to install pots flush!
(https://dl.dropbox.com/s/tagowbvbe8i9fwd/GTFO%20with%20Guts.jpg)
Where is the latest build doc's / PCB? The dropbox links seem to be broken.
I think I've got all the parts now, ready to build! let me know! ;D
@forsakenrider: i will try to find the build documents in the old folder of the project. If someone has them the could you be kind enough to post them here, i hope that i can find the final version of the project and post it here.
Best regards,
Gabriel
Hi Gabriel
Would be great to get those docs, thanks!
Peter
Not sure if this was the "final" build but here ya go...
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/GTFO/GTFO.zip
Thank you, much appreciated.
Peter
Has anyone tried running this pedal at, say, 200v?
My thoughts are to run the power supply from a 12v source and have a few less dangerous volts flying around the pedal....
Thx, Peter
Quote from: peterc on December 25, 2014, 12:58:24 PM
Has anyone tried running this pedal at, say, 200v?
My thoughts are to run the power supply from a 12v source and have a few less dangerous volts flying around the pedal....
Thx, Peter
The +18V on the schematic is supposed to be +12VDC... The heaters use the +12VDC directly from the wall-wart. BTW - Running at +12VDC you can adjust the smps up past +400VDC if you have some decent components. Mine runs comfortably at +350V on the GTFO
Thanks for the reply.
Peter
Quote from: gtudoran on June 05, 2014, 01:10:14 AM
Voltage ratings:
C1 - 1µF - 16V
C2 - 1µF - 16V
C3 - 22nF - 250V
C4 - 10nF - 250V
C5 - 22nF - 250V
C6 - 10nF - polyester 250V
C8 - 1n5 - polyester 63V
C9 - 470µ - electrolytic 16v
C10 - 100p - 2kV
C11 - 4.7µ - 400V
C12 - 10µF - 400V
C13 - 10µF - 400V
C14 - 470pF - ceramic 2kV
C15 - 1nF - polyester 2kV
Tone Stack (Hilli mod)
470pF (ceramic 2kV)
22nF (polyester 250V)
22nF (polyester 250V)
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
Hi Gabriel,
I'm busy putting your design together. I have some problems with rating and sizes.
C15 - 1nF - polyester 2kV,
Can I use a 400V rated cap?C10 - 100p - 2kV,
Can I use a 1kV rated ceramic cap?Thank you!
Rgds Jim
Hello Jim,
Yes you can without any problems.
Best regards and a happy new year,
Gabriel
Quote from: gtudoran on December 31, 2014, 09:32:32 AM
Hello Jim,
Yes you can without any problems.
Best regards and a happy new year,
Gabriel
Hi Gabriel,
Thanks for quick reply.
Happy and a creative new year.
Hi Gabriel,
Just finished with building and testing. I'm very happy with the overall sound, but need some shaping...
Now running @ 341V at C11. I think there is a little too much bass and too muddy, what do you suggest to change? Some caps?
I'm not using that much gain (enough on tap though), tone full open.
Used a linair pot for volume.... ::)
Some pictures:
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/jimsoprano/diy/58FDD6F1-6365-4964-9D50-B5E5FD03CECD_zpsvlmd7b03.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/jimsoprano/media/diy/58FDD6F1-6365-4964-9D50-B5E5FD03CECD_zpsvlmd7b03.jpg.html)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/jimsoprano/diy/E28ED295-79DF-4709-8D3C-C8DA2DB48A51_zps27lp4rgt.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/jimsoprano/media/diy/E28ED295-79DF-4709-8D3C-C8DA2DB48A51_zps27lp4rgt.jpg.html)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/jimsoprano/diy/0E71AEF7-E389-4F0E-9B00-98DC6876F206_zpshvjcrcp0.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/jimsoprano/media/diy/0E71AEF7-E389-4F0E-9B00-98DC6876F206_zpshvjcrcp0.jpg.html)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/jimsoprano/diy/AF4B800D-04D8-478B-A941-44697F61C920_zpsuaar5msz.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/jimsoprano/media/diy/AF4B800D-04D8-478B-A941-44697F61C920_zpsuaar5msz.jpg.html)
(http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee6/jimsoprano/diy/9841CC67-35DD-4767-AD81-F7FABC1358EE_zpsfbqcneqp.jpg) (http://s232.photobucket.com/user/jimsoprano/media/diy/9841CC67-35DD-4767-AD81-F7FABC1358EE_zpsfbqcneqp.jpg.html)
@JimSoprano: very nice build you have there :)
You can start playing with the coupling caps and the fist and second stage cathode caps :)
Best regards,
Gabriel
Quote from: JimSoprano on January 04, 2015, 08:39:41 AMI think there is a little too much bass and too muddy, what do you suggest to change? Some caps?
Good looking board.
What does the GTFO have before & after?
Quote from: tubegeek on January 04, 2015, 11:34:47 AM
Quote from: JimSoprano on January 04, 2015, 08:39:41 AMI think there is a little too much bass and too muddy, what do you suggest to change? Some caps?
Good looking board.
What does the GTFO have before & after?
Tenx, Board is made via Itead, and a guy from The Netherlands helped with the design.
Before is a Epi LP with Air Norton in the bridge, and after a Marshall 20 Watt clone I made.
But I have not that much tube amp knowledge in modding, refering to values etc.
So the sound with the GTFO is muddier than the sound without...
As mentioned above, coupling caps and cathode bypass caps will both be ways to tailor the sound. If you reduce the value of either type to, say, 10% of its original value (keep the same voltage rating though) you will certainly hear what the substitution can do and you can either keep what you hear, or go even further (5% cap value maybe?) or try something in between (50% maybe?)
In a typical triode circuit the cathode bypass cap is connected from the cathode of a tube to ground in parallel with the resistor that sets the bias. Voltage rating on these is modest - 25V is typical in a Fender preamp circuit - and they are often electrolytic caps with a value anywhere from 1 to 50 uF.
In the GTFO schematic I looked at, C1 and C2 are each cathode bypass caps.
Typically coupling caps are connected between the plate of a tube and the grid of the following tube. Typical values are from .01 uF to .5 uF, and these caps will have to be rated for high voltage, the power supply high voltage plus 20% would be a decent place to start. The smaller capacitance values usually mean you can use a higher-quality cap (some kind of film vs. electrolytic) without breaking the bank.
C3, C4, & C5 are the coupling caps in the GTFO schematic I saw.
Here is a different preamp you can try using the GTFO board.. Change some resistors, caps, add a couple parts, leave a few off and Shazam! You have a different preamp/pedal. I'm not gonna say this is a 100% knock off of this amp but, let's just say it was very inspirational! :icon_wink:
Crank the smps up to about 320 or so should be fine...
This is why I like this amp/preamp.. :icon_evil:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgW3FJl6QjI
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/LS-100/LS-100.jpg)
Holy... :icon_eek:
Beautiful sound, man! Nice mods to the GTFO, too. I'm going to move the one I have on breadboard (literally, finish nails in a board!) to a turret next week - I'll check out your mods. THAT is some BROWN SOUND! :icon_mrgreen:
Great playing and 'sound control'....
hi I made a board for this project ages ago and finally poulated it over weekend , ive got the high voltage section working well , getting up to 400vt
but ive just noticed my board appears different to everyone else!
my trim pot in particular is just below the ic.
i haven't got any sound, but thought to ask ,, did i etch the wrong board!????
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/ScreenHunter_01%20Feb.%2009%2008.35_zpsh0k7cqxz.jpg)
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/IMG_7855_zpsab2nl12n.jpg)
anyone?????
???
??? ???
??? ??? ???
??? ??? ??? ???
??? ??? ??? ??? ???
Maybe you should send an email to Analog Sound?? They would likely know their own layout. That's why they put the email address on there... That's a PCB, not a schematic. Don't know how you ended up with it....if you traced it with a DMM, you could easily tell if it's the GTFO or something else. Problem with trying to look at a board and reverse engineer it is:
1) it takes time
2) the "R's" are not labeled as to value...tube circuits are VERY similar, and without seeing what the plate and cathode resistance values are, you can't say if it's "the same thing" without digging into it more than one would want to.
So - I mean - you say YOU made the board - you have to find out what board it IS, now! :) Location of the components isn't really much of a giveaway in this case. I have found that it's very helpful when doing a project to make a folder on your computer and keep the stuff in there, it prevents this kind of mix-up...send them that layout and I bet they'll tell you what it is.
i downloaded the pdf from this very forum topic a while back
im familiar with what you are saying
the question / point im trying to make is does anyone know why no one esle is building this version? its there a flaw in the layout?
i was hoping someone here may have some insight?
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/ScreenHunter_01%20Feb.%2010%2007.16_zpsfqtqyw7x.jpg)
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/ScreenHunter_02%20Feb.%2010%2007.16_zpseuztxfbi.jpg)
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/ScreenHunter_03%20Feb.%2010%2007.16_zpshqmrtmla.jpg)
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/ScreenHunter_05%20Feb.%2010%2007.17_zpsibjqwzw6.jpg)
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/ScreenHunter_04%20Feb.%2010%2007.16_zpsdfxygfvg.jpg)
Interesting that L1 in the schematic is shown as a capacitor. That's a version I would not follow exactly!
thats just the inductor with a wrong symbol
That looks like the very first version that you have and I vaguely remember that there was a problem with it... I did the same thing kinda, I etched that board and had it fully populated. I then was asking Gabriel questions about it and he said "oh, don't use that board!" So, I etched the new board, re-populated and didn't really ask any questions.. Let me see if I can dig through my stuff and find out why. It was at least 3 years ago I think.. I will look and report back. :icon_wink:
whats the latest correct version then!???? ???
oooh love that landry... 8)
@jim: knock up a fet version ;)
Quote from: njkmonty on February 10, 2015, 06:41:21 AM
whats the latest correct version then!???? ???
Look at post 389 on page 20, one page back.. I uploaded the latest version that I used, worked good for me. The download link is there. I don't remember what the issue was with the 1st layout but I am pretty sure if you compare them you can figure it out and correct it. I know the smps is arranged differently but I don't think that was the issue.
Quote from: deadastronaut on February 10, 2015, 07:27:06 AM
oooh love that landry... 8)
@jim: knock up a fet version ;)
Rob - Is that a dare? :icon_biggrin: :icon_twisted:
Yeah man...defo. 8)
when i finally finish up my latest project.....eventually... ::)
i'm gonna be after a nice new hi gainer to properly try out my new 7 string.... :icon_twisted:
Pfiuu... wth?!?! Why i didn't get any notifications for this... ok, i will get back to you in a moment. I will also share the BRD file if you will find it useful.
Regards,
Gabriel
Later Edit! - I CONFIRM! that the version posted by J0K3RX is the CORRECT version!
@J0K3RX - i dare you ... i double dare you to build a FET version
FYI: I'm a very lazy person that i why i used a CAP symbol instead of an inductor symbol :))
Quote from: gtudoran on February 11, 2015, 08:21:43 AM
@J0K3RX - i dare you ... i double dare you to build a FET version
8) 8) 8)
gtudoran,
can you remember what the mistake was for the board ive made is?
there was obviously a reason for updating the layout.
ive been trying to compare but cant seem to tell?
cheers
@njkmonty: it would be almost impossible as the project suffered a lot ... a lot lot of iterations, but what i can say for sure is that every version worked - so if you have anode voltage / heaters voltage then ... everything should be ok.
Regards,
Gabriel
ok, thanks
just wish to post that i have completed the latest version, and all working first time, i even made a temporary tone stack board to hear the difference.
one thing ive noticed it the output signal appears slightly below the bypass levels, (enough to notice),
also sounds a little gravely, Ive built a slo clone before so im familiar with the desired outcome. i will try and post my voltages etc soon.
have others found results similar to this? ive got a few new and old stuck tubes to try, should this make a huge difference?
(http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af111/njkmonty/IMG_7959_zpsqp3fwhgw.jpg)
@njkmonty: hmm that is strange ... the only thing i had to modify on this pedal was the high volume output (the unity gain was at about 9-10 o'clock) - please be sure that you have the right values resistors at the volume/tone control section. The low volume output is with the tonestack or with the original tone control?
Some voltages would be nice, also this behavior could be because of a faulty section of one tube (highly improbable but...)
Regards,
Gabriel
ill get some voltages for you,
the volume etc occured with either tonestack
Or could be a faulty pot (volume pot) - you can change POT3 in the PDF schematic with a 1M fixed resistor and collect the output on the junction of the resistor and C6 - be careful can get very loud - if you have a blast of volume there, then your problem in the volume pot or the tone stage.
this is what i found..
if i connect amp at end of c6 (bypassing tonestack i get equal volume to bypass, but its a bit gravely/gritty.
i connected my tbm tonestack to this point thinking it may be the onboard tone control, but the same thing, a drop in volume.
some voltages...
ic
1 6.5mv
2 5.3v
3 5.2v
4 11.14v
5 7.45v
6 5.3v
7 5.3v
8 11.14v
valve 1 ( next to distortion pot)
1 300v for 2 seconds then drops down to a steady 157v?
2 9mv
3 1.12v
4 ground
5 11.14v
6 215v
7 18mv
8 1.4v
9 5.7v
valve 2 ( next to volume and tone pot)
1 310v
2 11mv
3 3.49v
4 ground
5 11.14v
6 240v
7 11mv
8 1.7v
9 5.8v
voltages at junction of resistor 25 , c12 and R4 305v
voltages at junction of resistor 24 , c13 and R5 326v
anyone got some reference voltages?
Just ordered a batch of GTFO PCBs - the SMPS is not included on the board (came to a conclusion that is better to be on a separate PCB.
So if anyone is interested let me know.
Hi Guys
Where can i get a gtfo ready to solder pcb?
is a site in us where they sell?
best for all
Mikestorm
I'd be interested in a board. How much shipped to the US? Do you have an smps board as well?
Quote from: mikestorm on June 15, 2015, 05:35:10 PM
Hi Guys
Where can i get a gtfo ready to solder pcb?
is a site in us where they sell?
best for all
Mikestorm
Mike i'm selling them (they will be ready in couple of weeks). I'm based in EU and as far as i know there is no site that is selling them, as the project was posted under GPL Licence Agreement.
Luke, yes all the necessarily PCBs will be available (PCB +SMPS)
Regards,
Gabriel
Thanks Gtdoran
I was in europa, well... iwas born in Italy, but now i'm moved to dominican republic. Buy from US and bring it to her is a little bit expencive but is possible. But bring it from EU with the stealer in the tax line will be tricky one.
Just to know, how much euro's will cost me the preamp pcb and the psu pcb?
Best for all
Mikestorm
@mikestorm or i can provide you the files and build your own PCB if this would be better for you.
Hi Gtdoran
I've sent you a private msg
Please let me know
Best for all
Mikestorm
@Mikestorm and Hilli - you got mail :)
Regards,
Gabriel
Thank you VERY much !!!
Regards Hilli
This is my latest version with Clean Vol Pot.
Regards, Hilli
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Bilder/Verschiedenes/GTFO%20Redraw%20with%20Clean%20Vol%20Pot.jpg (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Bilder/Verschiedenes/GTFO%20Redraw%20with%20Clean%20Vol%20Pot.jpg)
Finally i can consider the GTFO project closed. No alterations will be made (by me at least) and no further development will be done (again by me).
The project is ready to be shared and i give you a small preview of this. It's using a 1590C type enclosure, tubes are hosted inside (first version / prototype had the tubes outside).
It's using a SMPS for the HV and it requires a single 12V DC @ 800mA PSU (center negative)
If you don't remember about this project (from the DIYSB forum), here it is how it sounds:
All the project details will be posted in a PDF document (as they were on the previous version) and also a preorder for PCBs can be made at the following address: http://oseq.org/pre-order/ (http://oseq.org/pre-order/)
Please be advise that for the project you will need both main board and SMPS board (if you are using another PSU for the HV then you will need only the main board).
Soon kits will be available that will include: PCBs / Pre-drilled enclosure / Jacks / Switch and parts.
As i said, this is the last form of the project and no further developments will be made.
(http://s5.postimg.org/m0w6v47bn/GTFO_ASM_BOTTOM.png) (http://postimg.org/image/m0w6v47bn/) (http://s5.postimg.org/46w3g2yvn/GTFO_ASM_TOP.png) (http://postimg.org/image/46w3g2yvn/)
(http://s5.postimg.org/wxsx654pf/GTFO_PCB_VIEW.png) (http://postimg.org/image/wxsx654pf/) (http://s5.postimg.org/rb15merkj/SMPS_PCB_VIEW.png) (http://postimg.org/image/rb15merkj/)
Great work! Thank you. 8)
My first "Original" build in a BB box. Sounds awesome! But it's also nice to have a middle+bass pot. This one is finally for me and NOT for my friends!!! ;)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/44238774/Bilder/DIY/Bodentreter/GTO/DSCI1259.jpg)
Hilli,
Nice set of tubes ya got there! ;)
Hope yer gonna protect them from Mr.Crazy Foot and five brothers!! :icon_lol:
~Jim
Hi Jim,
I hope that too. Hahaha. But I have small feet. lol
What projects are you working on currently? Need an idea.... ;D
Hilli
Quote from: Hilli on October 20, 2015, 12:08:27 PM
Hi Jim,
I hope that too. Hahaha. But I have small feet. lol
What projects are you working on currently? Need an idea.... ;D
Hilli
Well, at the moment I have 3 amps that I am messing around with.. The first one is a Jet City JCA20H that I got for $159.00 with free shipping from Musicians Friend when they were running it on "Stupid Deal of the Day" which was a killer deal for a killer little amp!! I have been looking at all of the mods for the JCA20H but they are starting to bore me to be honest.. All are Jose/Friedman/Cameron clones or some variant and they sound damn good but, it's just lost it's magic/charm for me... :P I was thinking of maybe a super charged Avenger or Bogner, Engl or something crazy like Elan MKII.. Dunno yet?
I do like the Fortin Hulk mod this guy did on his JCA22H! Pretty sure I can turn the 20H into a Hulk :icon_twisted:
Another amp is an old 80's Randall ProTube II 50 watt that I picked up for $50 and the guy said that it didn't work, and it didn't.. But, a few caps, resistors and reflowed solder joints later it's werking again. :icon_wink: Actaully sounds pretty damn good but, it needs some moddin! :icon_twisted:
The last one is my old 5150 which just needs some work... and mods of course :icon_twisted:
I don't know why more people haven't taken the basic GTFO design and done some other stuff with it? I actually destroyed my first one converting it into other preamps just messin around... I made it an Engl then a Marshall then a Bogner and then it was toast... salvaged the parts and haven't done anything with this again but I plan to again, soon! Would like to make a really hot Uberschall and I think I can, just need to get some time which is the hardest thing for me to do!
Wow, you have made a very good deal!!! The JCA22 sounds really good. I don't know the Randall ProTube II, but the 5150. It is a kliller amp.
I've given up trying to build large tube amplifiers, I have build them all. It simply is not worth it, the parts are very expensive and if you sell, you get only half the money. That's why I'm looking for small projects like the GTFO. That's perfect for me. I use a GTFO, a TC G-Major and my Music Man Luke. Sounds awesome. I do not need more. :icon_cool:
Hi Gabriel,
May i ask why you chose to keep SMPS and preamp on separate boards? To avoid parasitic frequencies or something like that? Or just easier to build?
Hades, the reason was simple :D had to fit inside a 1590C type box with all the hardware inside + the tubes that was one ... and the other one is that i have more flexibility in therms of fitting all. Also i already had the SMPS modules manufactured.
Regards,
DeX
PS: the osc. of the SMPS is @ about 68KHz so it's way way out of the audio spectrum :D
Hey gtudoran, just wondering what the status on the PCBs is - are you shipping out boards yet or is it still in pre-order? Sorry if I missed it in this thread.
Granny i'm afraid they were sold-out from the moment i brought them. I will place another order soon, this time only 10 sets were available and all of them were sold before they even arrived.
I will keep you posted.
Regards,
DeX
Yeah I preordered and paid your paypal invoice so one of them should be in the mail heading my way then. Just wondering because I couldn't find an update in the thread and there was a good few weeks between signing up for the preorder and the paypal invoice. Thanks.
Ohhh then it should be ok, was a slight delay with the guys from DHL and last week on the 30th a couple of friends had a really bad accident in a club (quite a big fire) so i've ran up and down to help them a little. The boards are in the mail as we speak (since yesterday) and should arrive at your place asap.
Regards,
DeX
PS: Granny :D you are on FB too? or ... who are you :D
Yes, we've heard about that fire - made the news on this side of the pond.
No, I don't do FB. No worries - I'm not impatient, just checking. I'm the Canadian (out of 10 orders I am assuming there aren't too many more in the group). If there's other Canuks PM me for details.
[I saw about that fire here on the Romainian news. I had no idea it was so bad, though.]
> a really bad accident in a club (quite a big fire)
Colectiv nightclub fire (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colectiv_nightclub_fire)
To my (US-based) eyes, it looks a lot like the Station nightclub fire (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Station_nightclub_fire), Rhode Island, 2003. Pyrotechnics and untreated acoustic foam.
This happens every few years. Actually, the Station fire was filmed because of the E2 fire 3 days before. But the 1942 Cocoanut Grove fire (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocoanut_Grove_fire), paper "palm trees", killed 492, and led to some crackdown on public decorations. Of course this was after a massive theater fire in Chicago, which set strict rules for theaters. I see the same pattern in other countries.
Back in black. This weekend i've managed to finish the GTFO V2 using the new PCBs - as i said this will be the final version and from my point of view no other modifications will be made. Soon this build will be available as a full kit.
(http://s5.postimg.org/4exp3yryr/WP_20151116_15_35_09_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/4exp3yryr/) (http://s5.postimg.org/i7c3zliqb/WP_20151116_16_28_07_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/i7c3zliqb/) (http://s5.postimg.org/r66rqdd03/WP_20151116_18_19_03_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/r66rqdd03/)
(http://s5.postimg.org/p2wcipd77/WP_20151116_18_22_39_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/p2wcipd77/) (http://s5.postimg.org/c00pzfmz7/WP_20151116_18_22_55_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/c00pzfmz7/) (http://s5.postimg.org/8pcczjx1v/WP_20151116_18_24_15_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/8pcczjx1v/)
Regards,
DeX
Quote from: gtudoran on November 18, 2015, 03:11:16 PM
Back in black. This weekend i've managed to finish the GTFO V2 using the new PCBs - as i said this will be the final version and from my point of view no other modifications will be made. Soon this build will be available as a full kit.
(http://s5.postimg.org/r66rqdd03/WP_20151116_18_19_03_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/r66rqdd03/)
Regards,
DeX
Back in black? Is this a color blindness test? :o
Especially for you Jim :))
Quote from: J0K3RX on November 20, 2015, 11:50:51 PM
Quote from: gtudoran on November 18, 2015, 03:11:16 PM
Back in black. This weekend i've managed to finish the GTFO V2 using the new PCBs - as i said this will be the final version and from my point of view no other modifications will be made. Soon this build will be available as a full kit.
(http://s5.postimg.org/r66rqdd03/WP_20151116_18_19_03_Pro.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/r66rqdd03/)
Regards,
DeX
Back in black? Is this a color blindness test? :o
Hi my friends, I'm a noob in the DIY's pedals but I wanna try whit this pedal
Please, send me the schematics, layout PCB and the material list of Soldano emulator with 2x 12ax7 , I don't found this :(
Sorry, but I don't speak english, I speak spanish.
Spanish:
Hola amigos, soy principiante en los pedales DIY pero quiero intentar con este pedal
Por favor, alguien que me envie los esquemas, el dibujo del PCB y la lista de materiales por favor, no la encuentro por ningun lado :(
Saludos
my email: hector.andres.05@hotmail.com
Hola paisano.
Tienes toda la documentación en este mismo hilo , los esquemas y las explicaciones.
Saludos.
Me allegro por tu paisano, hay en Ingles tambien?
> Tienes toda la documentación en este mismo hilo
The original links in the first post are now gone.
There may be updated files in the 23 pages of the thread, but that's a lot to go through. Especially if pedal-english is not your best language.
Final version of the docs is still being worked on, I'm told.
Had a lot on my table lately :D but the build document is going to be ready soon (i do hope this week).
The new version will be divided in 2 blocks:
- SMPS module
- Main board (tubes board)
and it's going to use 1590C type enclosure (all elements are inside). The PCBs are double sided (with vias).
Regards,
DeX
Hi,
Does your IRF740 heat up a lot? Cause mine does...
Do you think i can substitute the IRF740 with an IRF840? Looks like it's on the edge at 400V (it's data sheet limit). I've burnt a couple cause of that...
Hey gtudoran - did that build doc ever materialize? I'm not on facebook so you said you'd email it to me when you were done.
Quote from: Hades_Snake on March 09, 2016, 05:27:57 PM
Hi,
Does your IRF740 heat up a lot? Cause mine does...
Do you think i can substitute the IRF740 with an IRF840? Looks like it's on the edge at 400V (it's data sheet limit). I've burnt a couple cause of that...
Yes, you can use an 840. I use IRF840's on all of them that I have built except for the first one a couple years ago. Didn't go much past 320v on that so it was probably alright.. Use the 840 but you should still use a heat sink in my opinion, even with the 840 it still gets smokin hot. I use a pretty large inductor also, I got lucky and found a bunch of 5 amp 100uH coils probably about the diameter of a dime and they run substantially cooler than the ones that I was using rated at 2 amps..
Quote from: gtudoran on October 26, 2011, 04:51:46 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 26, 2011, 03:48:59 AM
^ nice demo....sounds cool detuned too. \m/ :icon_twisted: \m/
out of curiosity what is the tone control on that?....
edit: scrap that i see the schemo!.. ;)
Thank you, :D you have all the details in the PDF document.
Best regards,
Gabriel Tudoran
Analog Sound
dude，the page is 404，can u fix that？
Ou man! Great work :) is it possible to get these docks or eagle project? :)
Yes you can use IRF840 but keep in mind that RdsON is higher then 740 and that will cause a lot of heat. No my 740 is not running hot (50 to 60 deg max inside the enclosure).
Of course as i said the PCB of the SMPS is critical for both efficiency and stability so no i would not recommend the use of 840 without a heat-sink.
@Granny Gremlin no i didn't finished the build document but i will write you an email (and detailed pictures of the build) so you can finish the project (if there is a need for that) or we can have a skype call.
Regarding the docs from the original GTFO project, those are no longer available, literally no longer available because of a HDD crash couple of years ago.
Also keep in mind that the GTFO project was released under the GPL licence so no commercial activity is allowed.
At least but not at last, the kit project for this pedal was suspended because of the lack of interested. The pedal will be available in the form of ready to use pedal with wall-wart included in the price, but, i'm not going to support this project anymore for the public use :(
The only info that is available and will remain available will be the one that is posted on this topic until now. I'm really sorry that i can't offer support any more for this project.
Regards,
DeX
Hey. I may have a strange question. I plan on building that pedal in the future with a small "twist" but for that I would like to know what kind of voltages are present across the potentiometers. Can anyone help me with that? Is it possible to hook up an active device that has a max input voltage at 15V, instead of the potentiometers.
Great project and i want to start building ASAP but can't see dropbox files. Are they deleted ?
Hi efe, welcome to the forum. I built one recently and have some files related to the power supply, basic schematic, and Joker's mods (which I recommend!).
Here is the basic info you need to get going: http://i.imgur.com/AtdElol.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/AtdElol.jpg)
This one has "Joker's Mods", some changes that Joker made that I found good improvements: http://i.imgur.com/ymNdVGh.jpg (http://i.imgur.com/ymNdVGh.jpg)
Let us know how it goes for you!
Hi to all
I'm interested in building the gtfo, the only problem is that i havent time to do the two pcb's.
Can someone, in the usa, make me the pcb's of the working version of the pedal?
Please let me know
Mikestorm
Try and see if you find some PCBs on ebay or olx.pl - it was copied as hell without even credits given
Hi gtudoran
Thanks for the reply, no pcb on sale on ebay and olx.pl
I dont know if you remember, we send each oder a couple of mails years ago on the gtfo, the only problem, i live in DR, it would be perfect if i can find the pcb's in the states, so with a private courrir, i will bring it to me .
however i'm opened to alternative solutions
a question: As this pedal got a couple of years, does anyone got problems of malfunctioning on the power supply side(inductor/IC/Mosfet)?
Thanks for the reply
Michele
Hey Michele,
As i said i don't offer any type of support for this project :( really sorry about that but i was quite pissed on some things and ... preferred to go commercial with it.
Now is available via my site as a ready to use product, with some big improvements.
From my side there is no kit version or PCB only and will never be - the GTFO as an open source pedal is no longer in plan.
If you can find the old files i can answer to specific questions but i will not be able to offer you any kind of support.
You can find me on FaceBook to the following address: https://www.facebook.com/dextersworkshop.ro (https://www.facebook.com/dextersworkshop.ro)
regards,
DeX
Thanks gtudoran
I respect your point, no problem, i keep on searching...
I hadn't really ever looked at power supplies for Tube preamp pedals.. It's kind of amazing that a NE555 can supply 310V properly coaxed. I'll definitely have to mess around with this.
Edit: I guess the IRF740 is really doing the heavy lifting.
I'm going to start GTFO build soon but one thing puzzles me.. there is a pcb design available in this thread (Reply #407). So, this design has a copper fill around whole board. Has anyone experienced any issues because of this? I have two or three layouts in which I had to break a copper fill loop.
T.
Quote from: temol on February 24, 2018, 11:13:05 AM
I have two or three layouts in which I had to break a copper fill loop.
Really? Why? Using a ground plane is fairly common practice, I do it on most of my PCB layouts and never personally had any problem with it.
I had oscillation problems in my latest build. Not sure why.. maybe my poor pcb design, maybe circuit itself prone to oscillation. It stopped after "surgery".
T.
Ground planes are pretty common, but it's easier to have ground loops if you don't pay too much attention when you're doing the layout. That's why the oscillation, specially on high gain circuits.
Quote from: temol on February 24, 2018, 11:13:05 AM
I'm going to start GTFO build soon but one thing puzzles me.. there is a pcb design available in this thread (Reply #407). So, this design has a copper fill around whole board. Has anyone experienced any issues because of this? I have two or three layouts in which I had to break a copper fill loop.
T.
I built a few using that pcb and they were all surprisingly quiet.. no hum, no buzz, nothin! The only thing I didn't like about that type of layout is that the tubes are standing upright, naked and exposed :icon_eek: I know you can build a roll cage around them but, it just makes me paranoid... So, I have been using layouts where the tubes are mounted on daughter board and now I can sleep at night again..
Here are a few for example :icon_wink:
http://the7line.clan.su/publ/diystompbox/soldano_super_charger_gto/2-1-0-19
http://the7line.clan.su/GTO_0473.zip < Sprint Layout
http://the7line.clan.su/publ/diystompbox/soldano_tube_overdrive/2-1-0-45
http://the7line.clan.su/files/SOLDANO_SUPER_LEAD.zip
http://the7line.clan.su/publ/diystompbox/guitar_preamp_e730/2-1-0-39
http://the7line.clan.su/files/E730.zip