DIYstompboxes.com

Projects => Beginner Project => Topic started by: aron on October 04, 2003, 03:56:41 AM

Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 04, 2003, 03:56:41 AM
I would load this page, then save it onto your hard disk using IE or Mozilla's save page feature.

It will take a while to load due to the pictures.

Good Luck!

NPN Boost Build (http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/build/npnboostbuild.htm)

Raw URL just in case.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/build/npnboostbuild.htm

Please ask if you have questions!
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Ice9Rg570 on October 06, 2003, 03:05:22 AM
so at the end it says just wires next...

where do the wires go from? im such a beginner...
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 06, 2003, 03:15:31 AM
No problem. Let me work on this part and post it.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Ice9Rg570 on October 06, 2003, 03:18:20 AM
Quote from: aron
No problem. Let me work on this part and post it.


 :D Thanks!
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 06, 2003, 03:19:04 AM
I'm working on it now.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 06, 2003, 03:35:14 AM
OK, take a look at this:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/offboard.jpg)

The above picture works in conjunction with this:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg)

It should be noted that I do not connect the wires directly to the points from the bottom of the board. What I do is locate the next closest hole and place the wires from the TOP of the board and then bend the bare wire to touch the points. Then I solder the wire to the point and to the pad/hole that it enters the bottom of the board from.

In other words, all my wires enter the board from the top, not the bottom.

Of course you need to strip the wire first using your wire stripper, then insert the bare wire into the board from the top.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 06, 2003, 03:51:23 AM
Here's a picture from the DIY FAQ that shows a DPDT using the millenium bypass (LED circuit).

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/dpdtled.JPG)
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on November 20, 2003, 01:35:43 PM
??? With a DPDT switch, what do you connect to the 2nd pole? It's left open in your diagram...
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on November 23, 2003, 12:41:10 AM
You are right.

HMMMMM how long has it been like this?????
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on November 23, 2003, 05:45:36 AM
I don't know, I only noticed it a week ago :)
Title: SPST switch
Post by: gitrokr on December 17, 2003, 12:03:47 AM
can you show me how you would connect the ins and outs from the circuit board to a SPST switch to the in and out jacks please? thanks
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on December 24, 2003, 04:21:49 PM
For a SPDT, see the first picture of this link:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/articles/elbypass.html
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Axmanjr on December 31, 2003, 10:08:07 PM
:? I'm having a bit of trouble undertstanding where to hook up all of the wires after the components have been soldered.  I am trying to set up the board without a footswitch (so that I can just plug and play) and the one picture posted earlier isnt making any sense to me.  Where do I connect the negative terminal of the 9V battery snap?  Exactly where do I place the wirings on the input/output jacks? Also, do you have a pic of what the pot looks like with the cap on it?  Do you have an actual pic of the finished board with all the wirings, so that i can compare it to mine?  So many questions, but I'm just confused.  Thanks for any help.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on January 01, 2004, 06:46:56 AM
http://www.diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?p=100321#100321

check here ;)
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ryanscissorhands on April 10, 2004, 12:35:22 AM
This is Pre-Newb calling. When/where did you solder the transistor in, and how can yu tell which lead is for which on a transistor? (SOOOO newb...)
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: pbsk8er03 on May 10, 2004, 06:36:13 AM
VERY very newb. Does it matter which holes u place everything on the circut board???If it does matter how do u  know??? :oops:  :oops:  :oops:
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on May 10, 2004, 01:58:40 PM
Good question, but remember this from the pictorial:

Quote
I keep chanting the golden rule:

If I connect the components together correctly, it will work. It doesn't matter if they are "in the air" or on cardboard, as long as they are connected together correctly (not shorting), the circuit will work.


So, start anywhere but connect the leads correctly and your circuit will work.
Title: Transistor?
Post by: johnyze on June 09, 2004, 07:20:37 PM
Hey Aron, thanks for doing this fancy beginner's project, I've enjoyed attempting to work it out, and I am still working on it. But I noticed in your build picture, there is no actual transistor in the DIp8 socket. I was wondering why it's like that? Also, when I purchased my parts, being a newbie to the whole thing, the guy that I was talking to said I didn't need to bother with a ic socket thingy. Is that okay? or does that ruin the plan of the pedal? Thanks
John
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on June 09, 2004, 07:53:04 PM
Quote
I was wondering why it's like that? Also, when I purchased my parts, being a newbie to the whole thing, the guy that I was talking to said I didn't need to bother with a ic socket thingy. Is that okay? or does that ruin the plan of the pedal?


You just push the transistor into the socket to place it in the circuit. Very easy.

The reason I used a socket is:

1: to tech you how to use/create sockets.
2: so you don't burn out the transistor from bad soldering.
3: So you can re-orient the transistor correctly if you placed it in the wrong way.
4: So you can try different transistors.

But yes, assuming your soldering is OK and you have the pins right, you don't need a socket. But it's fun to try different transistors.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: rubberabbit on October 04, 2004, 03:43:11 AM
uhm aron..half the pics on the page izzint loading...
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: rubberabbit on October 04, 2004, 07:04:30 AM
ok the page is fine...at the end it says 'now for the wires'...how?
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: remmelt on October 04, 2004, 03:32:04 PM
go to the next step!
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: rubberabbit on October 05, 2004, 06:57:32 AM
Quote from: remmelt
go to the next step!

yep! done! :) i meant done reading.  :(
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: mattdowney on January 18, 2005, 02:09:20 PM
i have a question, does the positive wire from the battery snap go directly to the switch or to the board then the switch? i am using a 3PDT switch and a LED. also (this is a very dumb question) but what wire on my battery clip is positive? the red or the black? i cant tell what terminal they go to.

thanks, matt
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: KORGULL on January 19, 2005, 08:51:24 PM
I believe the battery positive (red) goes to the board then the switch.
There's a wiring diagram in the "Switches/Bypass/Etc.." sticky thread you should check out - if you haven't already.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Longlivedave on March 02, 2005, 12:39:53 PM
how would you modify this for an onboard guitar effect
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on March 02, 2005, 03:25:11 PM
For an onboard guitar effect, build it as small as possible. Fit the battery and the circuit into the guitar. Put the circuit at the end of the guitar circuit (i.e. where the output jack usually connects to). So the output jack wire would go to the input of the circuit. Output of the circuit goes to the output jack.

Use a DPDT mini-toggle to have an active/passive switch and make the output jack a stereo one to switch the circuit on/off.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: therecordingart on March 26, 2005, 12:11:13 AM
Ok...finished with the perfboard...what next?
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: therecordingart on March 26, 2005, 03:15:38 AM
What would happen if I used a 500K pot?  I have one of those floating around!
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: H4T on May 02, 2005, 09:44:01 AM
Uhm, I don't see a potentiometer anywhere in that tutorial, I thought the schematic called for a 5k pot?

Also, why is there a makeshift transistor socket, when theres no place for it in the schematic? I'm confused about how these parts just show up and don't show up :\

Edit: Oh, I see now the 5k pot is wired to the board after soldering. But the DIP8 socket thing is still confusing to me!
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on May 02, 2005, 04:18:15 PM
>What would happen if I used a 500K pot? I have one of those floating around!

It would probably not work at all. You could put a 5K resistor from one outer lug to another outer lug and then it would probably work, but the taper would be screwed up.

Easier to get a 5K pot.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on May 02, 2005, 04:21:05 PM
>Also, why is there a makeshift transistor socket, when theres no place for it in the schematic? I'm confused about how these parts just show up and don't show up

Transistor sockets are generally hard to find and/or expensive.

I wanted to show a way that a commonly found DIP 8 could be converted to a transistor socket.

Why use a socket? You can try different transistors easily and there's less chance of ruining the transistor from bad soldering.

Aron
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: H4T on May 02, 2005, 04:47:18 PM
Hm, so does the transistor socket belong somewhere on the schematic, or is a build time kind of thing just to make things work? I take it that the transistor in these pedals is the most important part, haha.
Title: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on May 02, 2005, 05:33:45 PM
It does not belong on the schematic. It's just a convenient way of mounting a transistor. A schematic describes the circuit, not necessarily every single part you might use to make the circuit.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: kingofrod on January 17, 2006, 11:43:48 PM
Quote
It does not belong on the schematic. It's just a convenient way of mounting a transistor. A schematic describes the circuit, not necessarily every single part you might use to make the circuit.

Sorry to drag out this question, but I'm a little unsure of how to mount the transistor socket.  Do you simply plug it into the perfboard and that's it, or do you have to solder?  After that, can you pop transistors in and out of the socket or do you need to solder that too? 

Thank you for your time, this is like a whole new world to me but I'm very excited about giving this a shot.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on January 18, 2006, 02:50:02 PM
The transistor socket has leads just like a transistor (although shorter). Simply stick it through the perfboard and then solder the leads (3 of them). After that, you can just stick the transistor into the socket (no soldering for this).

Pull out a transistor and try another. Very FUN!

Good Luck!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: kingofrod on January 19, 2006, 12:03:00 AM
Thank you very much for the help, and I can't wait to try this out!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ChamberMonk on March 22, 2006, 02:10:08 PM
I dont understand what is the transitor socket for?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Roobin on March 22, 2006, 04:50:13 PM
A transistor socket usually looks like three holes in a row, on a plastic rectangle, with three leads pointing out. To use:
1) Do not put the transistor into the socket yet (as this will defeat the point of the following steps)
2) Put the transistor socket on the perfboard (or pcb) and solder each lead to the relevant component. Make sure that you know which way the transistor is oriented when you will insert it. e.g. (using Bipolar) if the layout is
             
            Base

Collector         Emitter

when looking from below, make sure that the socket is oriented like this:

To collector connections   To base connections  To Emitter connections
    |                                             |                                 |
    |                                             |                                 |
Collector                                    Base                          Emitter

when looking from above.

3)Once soldered, let everything cool for a littel while
4) Insert transistor (making sure it is oriented correctly)

This means you can change transistors, and avoids damaging them through soldering.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ST_ELM on March 29, 2006, 06:11:53 PM
Hi guys , Hi Aron ,

i have done with build the board (put all the component on the board ),soory for asking stupid question,  how can i check that the board is working?  cos, this is my first project, and im pretty sure i make a mistake when soldering. Im also want to make sure that everything ok before continue to wiring.

Thanx in advance   
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ChamberMonk on April 11, 2006, 03:00:08 PM
Ok. Look sthat thing showing the sqitch and input is down right confusing! It shows output going to switch even though there are TWO areas where th eoutput bits goto. This is completly out ofsync with the schematics!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on April 11, 2006, 11:34:19 PM
The output wire goes to one lug of the switch and then the other lug of the switch goes to the output jack.

Are you talking about his picture?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ChamberMonk on April 12, 2006, 12:03:18 PM
Yeah. Ive sorted uot my circuit now. But one more question, is the LED supposed to do anything? ^^
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on April 15, 2006, 10:00:42 AM
The LED is supposed to light up when the circuit is active.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ChamberMonk on April 18, 2006, 11:04:17 AM
Lol! My box works but nio lights lol. oh well ^^
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: mtomlins on May 30, 2006, 01:56:31 AM
Hey Aaron - I must say that I see your techniques for laying out the perf board are much more efficient (vertical resistors led to adjacent holes, tucking cap leads back under to adjacent holes, using the tinned wire leads as connectors under the board).  If I had seen this post before building the green ringer, it could fit in a smaller MXR box.  (Hmmm...maybe I'll try that on a smaller perf board).

Are there any general pointers about soldering with the leads so close together?  How about tips for laying out the circuit before your populate the board?

Thanks for everything,

Mark
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: hendrixxx259 on July 13, 2006, 10:12:34 AM
Sorry if this sounds stupid...but...what is perf board?

Shane  :icon_rolleyes:
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: KZiggen on July 15, 2006, 05:52:39 AM
Im a total noob but what kinda wires do i need to wire up the things???
sorry, its my first time
also, can you show me a photo of of the wires and such all connected together... i get confused easily
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: GuitarPlayer on July 31, 2006, 11:55:08 PM
Hi,

I don't exactly understand what the transistor socket does.  I mean, what is it exactly?  Do they have their own leads?

Does it keep each lead seperate?

And, did you put each transistor lead into a hole in the socket, and then solder them,
or do you attach the socket and then place the transistor in later?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on August 01, 2006, 06:00:05 PM
Yes to all.

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/build/build%20006.jpg)
(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/build/build%20004.jpg)
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: GuitarPlayer on August 01, 2006, 11:58:18 PM
Thanks for the quick reply.

But, you say: Yes, the socket does have it's own leads?  So that first picture is the socket only, and nothing else?


Also, when is the transistor added?
I still am confused about this:  Do you put the transistor in the socket and then solder it all onto the board together, or do you solder the socket, then just place the transistor in later?
What keeps the transistor from falling out?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Funk on August 02, 2006, 07:06:10 AM
Thanks for the quick reply.

But, you say: Yes, the socket does have it's own leads?  So that first picture is the socket only, and nothing else?
Yep to both of those.

Also, when is the transistor added?
After you've finished everything, wires etc.

I still am confused about this:  Do you put the transistor in the socket and then solder it all onto the board together, or do you solder the socket, then just place the transistor in later?
What keeps the transistor from falling out?
Solder the socket to the board without the transistor in it. When you've finished building you can add in the transistor.
The socket holds the transistor in pretty tight, I wouldn't be worried about it coming loose at all. When you fit a transistor into it you'll understand.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: GuitarPlayer on August 02, 2006, 01:18:50 PM
Thanks a lot, man.
Is there any specific reason why you put the transistor in last?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on August 02, 2006, 03:53:13 PM
Transistor last? Kinda of like putting in the engine :-)

You can put it in any time actually after you have soldered the socket in.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ckdba on August 08, 2006, 10:42:43 PM
see on the picture that shows you where to wire your board to? the square at the bottom with 9 red circles? is that the 5k pot? my 5k pot is nothing like that at all!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on August 09, 2006, 04:11:31 AM
This one?

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/offboard.jpg)
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ckdba on August 09, 2006, 05:48:00 AM
the other picture that shows the actual jack input and output, sorry! in between them is a square with 9 red circles on them that connect to different parts
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on August 09, 2006, 06:45:02 PM
This one?

If so, that's the 3PDT switch.

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg)
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ckdba on August 09, 2006, 08:44:29 PM
ahhh right! im a complete idiot, i went and bought a completely different switch!

thanks for your help!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: lookie here on August 12, 2006, 12:44:59 PM
hey aron how would you add a dc in jack to the build. Sorry if its a n00b question ???
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ckdba on August 13, 2006, 01:44:09 PM
is there another name of a 3PDT switch? or is there a british term? i'm struggling to find one in scotland!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: PNG123 on September 23, 2006, 08:03:37 AM
Hey Aron,

Would you mind checking to see wheter pics 6 and 7 are still working/showing.
Theya re the ones where you put the markings on your board.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on September 25, 2006, 02:31:44 AM
Just too weird how those pics got changed.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: PNG123 on September 25, 2006, 10:56:35 AM
Thanks alot
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Barcode80 on September 30, 2006, 12:11:45 AM
Hmmm. I've assembled the circuit and checked it over for solder shorts and such, but when I plug it in (no switch wired up yet, just hard wired it to the jacks) i get an insanely loud hum with little or no signal. it's like the hum you get if you touch a guitar cable while it is connected to an amp, so i am guessing something is not properly grounded. what do you guys think? I did use a oair of solder to board jacks i cannibalized from a danelectro i stripped.any thoughts?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 12, 2006, 08:13:14 PM
Quote
i get an insanely loud hum with little or no signal

if it's that loud, it's probably DC from the 9V coming through the output jack. Look for a bad solder connection near the output capacitor (the 10uF at the end).
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Barcode80 on October 12, 2006, 10:40:23 PM
will do.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: RRAD500 on October 28, 2006, 03:14:34 PM
hey aron

ive been working on this project on/off for the last year now and just found some spare time and im gonna try and wrap it up. the circuit is done, but i dont know if its working. how can i check it before i do the off board hook-ups?
and when wiring things to the switch, does it matter which way the 3PDT switch is oriented? if so, how can i tell which set of 3 lugs corresponds with the top 3 in your switching diagram picture?

thank you
Raffi
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 29, 2006, 01:35:07 AM
Orient exactly as shown here:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg

I usually just wire up and then test voltages etc... There's a debugging page in the mail forum that will help once you get it going.

Good luck!

Aron
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: RRAD500 on October 29, 2006, 05:41:27 PM
hey, thanks for the help
i got it all wired up, and when the effect is bypassed the guitar's tone is transferred beautifully. when i engage the effect the LED comes on but there is no audio, no matter where the potentiometer is set.
Where's that debugging page now ? ;D its gonna be a long night

cheers
raffi
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: RRAD500 on October 29, 2006, 06:17:37 PM
alright i fiddled with it a little more and now when effect is engaged i get signal, but it is signifficantly softer than the bypass. also, when the pot is turned all the way to the right i hear nothing but when its all the way left i hear the volume-dropped signal. so its backwards
what can this mean?
thanks again
raffi
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 29, 2006, 11:06:08 PM
Triple-check your wiring on the circuit and measure that the circuit is getting power. Yes, check out the debugging page as well.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: zeppelinchld on March 12, 2007, 08:04:45 PM
im getting a loud buzzing sound. im using a dpdt switch and im confused about which lugs go where?
does the LED resistor go from input jack to LED or does the LED go first?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on March 13, 2007, 03:06:39 AM
You cannot use the LED+resistor as stated unless you have a 3PDT. Ignore the LED and resistor and wire it up as if the "middle" lugs never existed.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 12milluz on July 12, 2007, 10:51:31 PM
This one?

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/offboard.jpg)

is that the back of the perfboard when wired?
ssorry for the n00b questions

Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: james9 on October 20, 2007, 12:41:19 AM
I'm just wondering if you have any idea of what transistor I should use.

Thanks
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on October 20, 2007, 09:31:06 PM
Use the transistors as in the threads:

2N5088, 2N2222 etc...
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: CGDARK on October 20, 2007, 09:38:18 PM
Use the transistors as in the threads:

2N5088, 2N2222 etc...

Hey james9,

I have 2N2222A transistors for sale or trade. Check here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=61754.0

CG ;D
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: -Jake- on November 22, 2007, 12:11:21 PM
Aron.
Ive Never Done Anything To Do With Electricals But See This As A Cool Project I Wanna Get Done
Do U Recon I Would Be Able To Do This Bairing In Mind I Have No Experience With Electricals ???

Thanks Jake
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on November 23, 2007, 12:50:01 PM
You can do it. Take it slow.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: esdiezy28 on November 23, 2007, 05:50:21 PM
I was wondering what kind of wire you use one the back of your board to connect your solder joints. I got these small wires at radio shack that are meant for a solderless board, and im not sure they will work for me. Any help appreciated, thank you!        ToNy
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on November 23, 2007, 08:26:46 PM
Follow the threads in order. The wires are the component leads.

Also check out:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/cnews/FAQ.html
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: esdiezy28 on November 23, 2007, 09:25:32 PM
Follow the threads in order. The wires are the component leads.

Also check out:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/cnews/FAQ.html

thank you, I get it now...
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on November 23, 2007, 10:17:43 PM
COOL! Good luck!!!!!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: macaroni on January 24, 2008, 04:15:01 AM
Hey aron, i'm half way through this project and im stuck.

i got a few questions for ya man.

1. how will u go abouts wiring up this switch?
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/3900/dsc00189ad4.jpg)

2. i bought a stereo output plug and i duno how to wire it up.
(http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/2011/dsc00191tj2.jpg)

thanks alot man :D

Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on January 24, 2008, 02:44:27 PM
1. See the middle lugs. Make sure that they are horizontal and wire it up that way MINUS the LED and resistor. (Pretend the LED and resistor didn't exist in the wiring diagram.

2. The "marshall style jack", is (from closest to hole to back), sleeve, ring, tip. Just connect as described.

Let me know if you have more questions. GOOD LUCK!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: commanderkeen on August 05, 2008, 03:56:27 PM
hey,
  how's it going? I'm a huge beginner to electronics, but I've been reading up a lot lately. I'm attempting to take this one step at a time, but I have a huge question: Does the NPN transistor plug into the DIP8 socket that I cut? I don't see the actual transistor at all on the finished board.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on August 05, 2008, 04:05:16 PM
Yes it does. The 3 legs go right into the cut DIP socket.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: gal on September 18, 2008, 12:08:09 PM
never mind
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Captainobvious99 on December 24, 2008, 04:28:16 PM
Question:

The transistors have long leads...do they have to be trimmed in order ot be snapped into the sockets? Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something

Also, Im off to practice so I can trouble shoot when I get back, but when hooked up, I get sound when in bypass but not when engaged...also the led doesnt light up.
Where shoul I start to look first?

Thanks!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Barcode80 on December 24, 2008, 07:40:46 PM
power and ground connections would be first suspect.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Captainobvious99 on December 25, 2008, 01:51:27 AM
One thng I'm confused about with this project is the transistor.  Looking at the top of the board with input cap to the left, the socket for the transistor is vertical. How do I know which way to orient the Transistor? Also, I'm assuming that I have to trim down the long leads on the transistor and then push it into the socket...

From top to bottom, how should the transistor be oriented?

The kind I am using is a 2N5088 and it is marked and has a flat side. BUT, I also have some other transistors (2N2222A, etc) that I coul substitute so I need to know which pins fom top to botom are for collector/base/emitter.

Also- How do you determine which pins to start with on the 3dpdt switch? In one corner thee appears to be an "8". I used that as the top left corner according to the schematic.
My battery is good and showing 9+volts.
                                         
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: GREEN FUZ on December 25, 2008, 05:56:17 AM
If you do an internet search you can usually find datasheets for most transistors. Presuming they`re fairly current that is. This will give you a wealth of information, including the pinout.
Here is the 2n5088 datasheet (http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/philips/2N5088.pdf).
Scroll down a short way to get the pinout.
You don`t need to trim the leads but it wont do any harm if you do.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Captainobvious99 on December 25, 2008, 08:47:06 AM
Thanks fuzz. I actually can see which pins on the transistor are C B and E but I'm just unsure on the schematic for this project how the transistor should be positioned in the socket.

Looking at the top of the board with the input capacitor to the left, the socket sits vertical just like in the instructional photo. From top to bottom should the pinout be "E-B-C" or should it be "C-B-E". I just want to be sure its in there correctly so I can eliminate it as a possible problem. Thanks for any assistance. This has been fun so far!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: GREEN FUZ on December 25, 2008, 09:44:50 AM
top to bottom = E-B-C.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Captainobvious99 on December 25, 2008, 09:53:03 AM
Thanks. Okay its situated properly and still some issues. I'll start a thread to keep this area clear. Thanks for your help thus far bud  ;)
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1slipperyfish on February 21, 2009, 03:27:33 PM
hello everyone i'm new here(and to electronics)  :D
i'm using a dpdt switch and the bypass works great but i can't get the actual effect to work???
i understand the top form the fx circuit and the bottom loop forms the bypass with the jacks connected to the middle lugs, but it won't work ??
should i try the one with the millenium bypass from the diy faq instead?
thanks for your time :D
paul
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Barcode80 on February 21, 2009, 10:58:47 PM
hello everyone i'm new here(and to electronics)  :D
i'm using a dpdt switch and the bypass works great but i can't get the actual effect to work???
i understand the top form the fx circuit and the bottom loop forms the bypass with the jacks connected to the middle lugs, but it won't work ??
should i try the one with the millenium bypass from the diy faq instead?
thanks for your time :D
paul

try it without the switch first. just wire the in/out of the effect to the in/out jacks. if it works then, then you can start with diagnosing the wiring. if not, you either have your circuit connections screwy or something not assembled properly.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1slipperyfish on February 22, 2009, 04:52:44 AM
thanks barcode80 i'll try that later today :D
paul
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1slipperyfish on February 22, 2009, 09:27:16 AM
here's mine without the switch (http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj297/1slipperyfish/100_1713.jpg)
hello i'm not gettting any sound when i take the switch out i have checked the back of my board and it looks just like the one in the picture??? i was wondering if anyone can see anything obvious or has any suggestions??
thanks in advance
paul
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: rebelred on February 22, 2009, 09:54:11 AM
I noticed in your pic you have a 10k instead of a 5k pot; I'm not sure if that would keep it from working or not though. Also, have you checked that you have the pinout correctly oriented on the transistor? If it's in backwards like mine was first you won't get anything out of it.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1slipperyfish on February 22, 2009, 10:06:23 AM
thanks for your reply :D i have taken the transistor out and tried it both ways, i've also tried different transistors??
i had trouble getting hold of a 5k pot so i thought a 10k would do???
thanks again :D
paul
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Barcode80 on February 22, 2009, 02:26:32 PM
thanks for your reply :D i have taken the transistor out and tried it both ways, i've also tried different transistors??
i had trouble getting hold of a 5k pot so i thought a 10k would do???
thanks again :D
paul
10k is fine. that's not the issue.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1slipperyfish on February 23, 2009, 03:52:44 PM
has anyone got any suggestions that i might try???
thanks
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on February 24, 2009, 02:17:07 AM
Triple check your input jack wiring. Also it might be time to try an audio probe. (Also make sure your battery is good).
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1slipperyfish on April 27, 2009, 08:31:05 AM
hello
i have made and audio probe and i plugged my ipod into the input, when i touch on the input wire i get sound and also on the inlet of cap but not on outlet of cap??? any suggestions? in other places i get crackels and thuds but no music
thanks
paul
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: stratomaster15 on August 12, 2009, 09:56:59 AM
Ok, so I'm a major newbie at this, and I understand everything but the last picture. And I don't really understand about the transistor. Do I need one to put in there? Does anybody have pictures of this finished, like the guts and the board and everything? Thanks!

One last question... What's an NPN Boost? :P

Sorry for the major newb questions!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1slipperyfish on August 12, 2009, 10:21:31 AM
i'm a noob myself but the npn is the type of transistor that's used
hth
paul
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on August 12, 2009, 12:30:31 PM
Yes, you stick the transistor in the socket. This project is a booster that uses an NPN transistor. Please check out the FAQ for more info.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: jmclaren on August 17, 2009, 10:53:31 PM
Is there a link to a schematic for this build?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: jmclaren on August 17, 2009, 10:55:11 PM
Never mind............It's shown a couple threads down.  Sorry!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Chainclaw on November 18, 2009, 09:45:24 PM
Hi, I'm attempting to make this build, but because I'm here and not in the "show completed projects" thread, it means I've made a mistake somewhere.

When I get everything plugged in except the input jack, I get random noises out of my amp that suggests things are probably working properly (similar to the noise when you plug in your guitar when the amp is on). As soon as I plug my guitar into the input jack, all sound cuts off from the amp except the usual low buzz as if nothing was plugged in.

I had a couple bad solder points that I fixed and made it as far as above. Now I am wondering if I wired my stereo input jack wrong. I picked up a strange one, the only one I could find in the area, and I don't understand the schematic for it on the back. I kind of guessed at it with the wiring, and I think I got it wrong.

Here is how I have it wired:
(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/212/badjacksm.jpg) (http://img412.imageshack.us/i/badjacksm.jpg/)

I google searched the description of the jack, and this seems to be the same thing:
http://www.guitarelectronics.com/product/JK31/9_Pin_14_Stereo_Jack_w_DPDT_Switch.html

Any tips? If I got this wired right then it'll be a lot of debugging from here.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: 1tczx on November 23, 2009, 10:08:45 PM
hey guys noob here, trying this out as my first project.
however, i was wondering how does the currrent knows where to flow next in my PCB?left to right? if its guided thru wire like in a schematic i understand but in a pcb?
allittle help here thx
im using this pcb
[img]http://www.e-gizmo.com/PRODUCT/proto/pcbs2.gif[/i
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: zeestar on January 16, 2010, 09:54:39 AM
Hi all .. ive put this circuit together on a breadboard .... after 6 attempts ive sort of got it to work ..
Im getting a weird tone constantly (no switch yet) almost like a oscillating signal , the pot works ie it increases the guitar volume ..
Also the volume of the pedal is quite low compared to my normal guitar level ie the pot has to be full up , in order to be level with the bypassed (guitar plugged straight into amp ) level..
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: zeestar on January 16, 2010, 02:16:20 PM
also i forgot to add .. does it make a difference which way round the resistors go ???
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: zeestar on January 17, 2010, 07:24:23 AM
 ::)  well ive got rid of the weird signal ... i realised it was my 9v power supply to close to my LCD monitor ...

So the pedal works ... just need to sort out the volume drop .... ... im using an alpha 4.7k pot brand new ... and i only seem to here a difference on the last 1/4 turn ... so for the first 3/4  theres no difference in volume .... i know i should use a 5k pot .. but i read on this forum that a 4.7k should be fine .... am i missing something ???
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Barcode80 on January 19, 2010, 02:52:37 PM
the pot value isn't the issue. double check all the parts near the volume pot, it sounds like you may have a resistor soldered in the wrong place.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: leehutch on March 08, 2010, 06:22:53 PM
How do you know what goes where on the board and what connects to what? Sorry for the dumb question i just can't get my head round it
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Barcode80 on March 08, 2010, 07:07:03 PM
How do you know what goes where on the board and what connects to what? Sorry for the dumb question i just can't get my head round it
page 1 of this very thread.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: bigmufffuzzwizz on March 14, 2011, 12:00:13 AM
awesome tutorial!! doesn't seem so daunting when done step by step  :icon_wink:
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on March 14, 2011, 04:19:08 AM
Good luck!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: JebemMajke on April 28, 2011, 06:12:09 PM
Hi, I am new to this diy pedals and i am starting with this project. One question, since I am not in a position to acquire all the parts for this project, well I have 95%, can i replace that transistor with, for example, this one http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/426356418/MOSPEC_high_voltage_Transistor_F12C20C.html ?
Yeah I am a n00b :).
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on April 28, 2011, 06:44:52 PM
No, you want an NPN transistor from any local store.
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/pf/2N/2N3904.html
Ask for a 2N3904 or equivalent.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: JebemMajke on April 28, 2011, 07:24:41 PM
Yeah, well that's going to be a problem, for you see I am from a small town in Serbia and I have limited choice when it comes to electronic components, or those components are very expensive. But i do have a lot of junk laying around the house. There must be some transistor i could rip from something and use it in this ( or some other ) project.
Can i use any of these?
224sbl2040ct, g945pw 26, 58050D 331 ( I have 3 of these ), k30az 5f, cbc337 -25 ( 2 of these ), c945pw 26, a1015gr3k.
What am i after in transistor? Some specific voltage or HZ, A, Farads, Ohms?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: .Mike on April 28, 2011, 07:57:37 PM
Can i use any of these?
224sbl2040ct, g945pw 26, 58050D 331 ( I have 3 of these ), k30az 5f, cbc337 -25 ( 2 of these ), c945pw 26, a1015gr3k.

I can't find any information on most of these, but:

S8050D = PNP transistor = won't work.

cbc337 -25 = NPN transistor = will probably work. Hfe = 100 - 400.

Good luck!

Mike
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: JebemMajke on April 28, 2011, 08:20:27 PM
Thanks for your info, support and help. I will try and finish this project tonight.  :)
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on April 29, 2011, 12:06:19 AM
Yes, I would try this one: cbc337
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: JebemMajke on April 29, 2011, 12:45:00 AM
cbc337 showed 37 HFE, but i ve found c945p ( http://www.futurlec.com/Transistors/C945.shtml ), and it showed 230 HFE. So that's the one i used. I 've completed the board, only the switch, power and input/output to connect. :)
Very nice project, excellent for beginners. I've learned so much in these 2 hours.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: JebemMajke on April 29, 2011, 12:48:00 AM
Pardon me, it's been 4 hours xD.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on April 29, 2011, 04:42:29 PM
Good luck with the wiring!

Aron
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Musok on January 27, 2012, 06:35:59 AM
Hi guys,

Ordered the items to do this while they dont arrive... Tell me something. I understood the need of a stereo jack. What about the cable that connects from pedal to pedal, guitar to pedal... does it need to have a stereo? Or mono and using the ground of the jack to know if it's connected will be fine?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: .Mike on January 27, 2012, 08:47:48 AM
Hi guys,

Ordered the items to do this while they dont arrive... Tell me something. I understood the need of a stereo jack. What about the cable that connects from pedal to pedal, guitar to pedal... does it need to have a stereo? Or mono and using the ground of the jack to know if it's connected will be fine?

Hi,

You will use regular, mono guitar cables.

When you insert the cable into the jack, the sleeve of the cable makes contact with both the ring and the sleeve of the jack. This completes the circuit, connecting the ground, and turning the circuit on. :)

Mike
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Bod on July 27, 2012, 03:22:55 PM
Hi all,

I've been bitten by the diy bug and thought I'd give this project a go.  I've got my components laid out on a breadboard, and although it works to a point, it only outputs when I play the strings very hard.

Any ideas?  I've read somewhere about transistor biasing, could that be the issue?  If so then how do I do it?

Ta,
Bod.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: entinggi on August 02, 2012, 02:23:24 PM
Wow this really helps.. It enlightened on how to connect the parts using the perfboard/stripboard... I have  a question, how about the trace cuts. How do you trace cuts for a stripboard?
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: artifus on August 02, 2012, 02:31:15 PM
you could use a trace cutting tool, a blade or rotary tool. if it's just a few cuts i use a 3 or 4mm drill bit, without the drill, centered on a hole.  it takes just a few twists between your finger and thumb applying light pressure to cut a trace.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: entinggi on August 02, 2012, 09:34:44 PM
How do you know which part to trace? I have a problem of translating the schematics into the real thing...
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on August 03, 2012, 05:38:17 PM
Start off with a simple project. After a while it will become easier like anything else.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Musok on November 13, 2012, 05:23:12 PM
I've made a little setup to work on pedals:
(http://arena.sendoushi.com/npn_boost/photo1.JPG)

So here is the NPN Boost on the breadboard (i don't know how to show it better):
(http://arena.sendoushi.com/npn_boost/photo2.JPG)
(http://arena.sendoushi.com/npn_boost/photo3.JPG)
(http://arena.sendoushi.com/npn_boost/photo4.JPG)

But it isn't working!
The transistor is working (I think), the sound gets to the amp but the pot isn't doing a thing! I could get rid of the 9v and the part of the pot without a difference.

Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?

By the way I had the second pot so I can have a way to control the signal / volume overall getting to the amp. This way I can turn it down and work without getting feedback on the amp when I don't really want it.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: esdiezy28 on November 14, 2012, 08:38:47 AM
@Musok-   despite the very large pics you posted I can't quite read the component values. Also... whenever I test something on my breadboard, it picks up some RF, from not being in a shielded case. Usually sounds alot cleaner after I build it into a metal enclosure.

Double check the polarity of your electrolytic capacitors. What you've described made me think that maybe the bootstrap cap (22uf) to Q1 Emitter could be backwards. First time I built this I think I put every polarized cap in wrong at first. Its a learning curve, but once you clear this hurdle, you can move onto bigger and better. Best of luck! ToNy
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Musok on November 14, 2012, 08:42:51 AM
@Musok-   despite the very large pics you posted I can't quite read the component values. Also... whenever I test something on my breadboard, it picks up some RF, from not being in a shielded case. Usually sounds alot cleaner after I build it into a metal enclosure.

Double check the polarity of your electrolytic capacitors. What you've described made me think that maybe the bootstrap cap (22uf) to Q1 Emitter could be backwards. First time I built this I think I put every polarized cap in wrong at first. Its a learning curve, but once you clear this hurdle, you can move onto bigger and better. Best of luck! ToNy

The problem isn't really the cleaness but ... maybe i'll try rever the emitter cap and see what happens. Now I have negative -> positive -> Emitter.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: jhferguson on January 31, 2013, 12:04:35 AM
Ok, I have built this twice and am having the same exact effect. I get nothing...even when the guitar cable is plugged in. However if I touch the sleeve and ring together with my needle nose pliars on the sterio jack the led lights up and stays lit no matter how many times I click the switch. Can anyone tell me what I have done wrong here? I appreciate any response and thank you for your time.

If you can tell me how, I'll upload some pics to make it easier to understand.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: jhferguson on January 31, 2013, 12:00:58 PM
Here are some pictures to help you better understand.

This is the top of the board. I have it upside down because it was easier to photograph without having to have my fingers in the way.
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j444/Johnathan_Ferguson/20130130_234009_zps3580c579.jpg)

The underside of the board. Sloppy solder job I know but should be ok I think?
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j444/Johnathan_Ferguson/20130130_234039_zps3066c547.jpg)

This is the switch. Btw, It does not click when it is depressed. I ordered 3 of them from this website and all 3 are basically noisless. I am not complaining, just wondering if that is normal?
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j444/Johnathan_Ferguson/20130130_234048_zps1c662d49.jpg)

Stereo Jack that I got from RadioShack. Notice the 4th lug. Not sure I wired this up correctly. Green is going to the 3PDT switch (Tip), the 2 blacks go to the ground on the board and the negative side of the LED (sleeve), and the leftmost black cable is the negative on the 9V plug (ring).
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j444/Johnathan_Ferguson/20130130_234115_zps44ae3a1d.jpg)

Mono Jack that I got from Radio Shack. Notice the 3rd lug. Again, not sure I wired this up correctly. Green is going to the 3PDT switch (Tip) and the black is going to the ground on the board (sleeve)
(http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j444/Johnathan_Ferguson/20130130_234156_zps7912aa43.jpg)

I hope this helps and thanks again for your time.
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: jhferguson on January 31, 2013, 09:43:17 PM
Nevermind I figured it out. I had the tip, ring, and sleeve wired up incorrectly on the input and output. It is working now LED and all!! Now to work on the enclosure. It sounds great but full of bass. However, that could be because I don't have enough guitar cables here to try it out correctly since my stuff is at the "jam house" so I had to hook it up to my computer speakers which are full of bass anyway. Awesome, can't wait to try it out for real. Thank you for the schematics and the how-to!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: ienablues on May 17, 2013, 10:42:07 AM
Hi, everybody.
I've been working on a strange idea for a few years, but never found out how to complete the job. Maybe someone of you guys can help.

The idea is to have a gain boost mounted into a volume pedal enclosure; I want it to be always on, with 0 gain when the pedal is up (so you have your clean sound on) and increasing the gain to full by pushing the pedal... Something like hitting the gas in your car, can you figure it?

I tried to modify a volume pedal, but the gain increase/decrease was impossible to manage: it would go full up in a short run at the end of the pot's turn or at the beginning, depending on the pot values I tried. I used the components and circuit of the MXR MC401, which has a full 25dB of gain; maybe it's too much gain for my idea?

Would this one have some more chances to work?

Any help will be appreciated!
Thank you and... Aron, great job!
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: aron on May 17, 2013, 03:15:49 PM
I think if you put the booster after the volume pedal, then put a resistor in series from the volume pot to ground this might work. The resistor can be a variable trim pot so you can adjust the starting volume (which you want as unity volume).
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Gdelisle on May 22, 2013, 10:36:02 AM
Hi, sorry to barge into this thread, but i have a project due in 2 days and i need to fix the pedal i made,  after I took up the project of building myself an Octavio clone with two switches, I have encountered a few problems. After lots of trouble, I was able to get the signal finally working, however, it is very low, and I have to play the strings very hard to get the signal up. However, when I place my finger on switch 2 the pedal finally gains full signal. This was done without the pedal inside the enclosure. i made sure I was not touching any wires so I am not sure what the problem could be since by only placing my finger on the switch 2 where all the connections I go to, but I get full signal when i do it.

Thank you very much and I appreciate any response!

George Delisle
Title: Re: 3: Build pictorial
Post by: Norgul on February 18, 2014, 01:32:11 AM
I must have missed it, but...what does this circuit actually DO? It is a NPN boost circuit...okay...what does it boost xD How does it affect sound? :)