Does anyone have any suggestions for using waterslide decals over dark powdercoats? I can't seem to get enough contrast for the art on the dacal to show.
My experience has been the same. You'll need to change the medium you use for your artwork.
Because they are clear, there really isn't much you can do.
The PulsarPro system is supposed to work for what you are after. I have the system and I'm learning how to use it now. It's not hard to use, there are just some techniques that need to be learned. The summary of the system can be seen here:
http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/Vertical/1_MENU/1c_How_It_Works/How_It_Works.html (http://www.pulsarprofx.com/decalpro/Vertical/1_MENU/1c_How_It_Works/How_It_Works.html)
There are 2 videos on the page that walk through the process. The one on the bottom shows how he puts that graphic on a glass, but that would also work on a dark background pedal.
These are a couple of pics showing an LTD Silver I did. The powder base is Silver Vein and was done by PPP. I put on the PulsarPro labels and then put high gloss clear powdercoat on top of it all. I'm pretty happy with the result and plan to keep trying.
(http://home.comcast.net/~gprause/pictures/IMG_5384.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~gprause/pictures/IMG_5388.JPG)
These are a couple of others that show light on dark and dark on light.
(http://home.comcast.net/~gprause/pictures/IMG_5374.JPG)
(http://home.comcast.net/~gprause/pictures/IMG_5379.JPG)
That Pulsar system looks to be the answer to a lot of problems. Your enclosures turned out really well, nice job!
Yeah those are excellent results!
I am afraid that the expense is going to prevent me from trying this. I do not have a laminator or a guillotine. I will probably just use paint markers.
Unfortunately Pulsar doesn't do such a great job on their website in regards to laminator information. The product was originally intended for making circuit boards. They have an entire companion site that is dedicated to the PCB side, but not as much info on the graphics side.
If you poke around on the PCB side there is info about alternatives to the H-220 laminator. From what I've read the GBC Personal and Creative laminators were the originals that they started with when they first introduced the product, but those have since been discontinued. On the up side they still are out there on eBay. Be aware though that Pulsar requires a modification in order for the laminators to work. They say you have to replace a thermostat with a higher temperature unit in order for it to work properly. This is a link to their mods page:
http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/tech_support/instructions/Laminator_Modifications/Personal_Creative/Personal_Creative.html (http://www.pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/tech_support/instructions/Laminator_Modifications/Personal_Creative/Personal_Creative.html)
FWIW, those laminators can be had pretty cheap if you wait for the right auction. I won one for $22.50 shipped, so they can be had.
Also, the paper cutter in the video isn't "required." An x-acto knife and a ruler work just fine.
I already have a laminator I got from costco which has the dual heat settings (intended for 3mm and 5mm laminate plastic). I wonder how close this gets to the recommended temperature? I want to try this system, but I would really like to avoid getting another laminator.
I'm already using my costco laminator for stompbox projects. I have found that laser toner printed on magazine paper transfers really well onto copper board using the laminator. I usually pass the board through about 10 times, and I get a complete toner transfer onto the copper. I wonder if this is an indication that the temps are high enough?
Quote from: arawn on December 15, 2011, 11:06:05 PM
I am afraid that the expense is going to prevent me from trying this. I do not have a laminator or a guillotine. I will probably just use paint markers.
Have you found a particular brand of paint markers that work well?
CHAD
I prefer the model enamels, but right now all I have is some by elmers.