DIYstompboxes.com

Projects => Beginner Project => Topic started by: aron on October 05, 2003, 07:58:47 PM

Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on October 05, 2003, 07:58:47 PM
Here is a very simple explanation on how our stomp switches work:
(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/123DT.jpg)

OK, now reference this simple article on bypassing:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/articles/elbypass.html
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on October 05, 2003, 08:42:16 PM
Here's how the circuit would be connected to the jacks and LED+resistor:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg)

In the above picture, the left jack is INPUT, the right jack is OUTPUT.
Notice how the LED is connected to the middle lugs. This helps to "isolate" the signals of the input and output but having the middle set of lugs between the two signals.

This is an advantage of using the 3PDT switches. Possible better isolation for signals and ease of use when connectiong an LED to indicate bypassed state.

The LED resistor will vary with your LED type. Start with 1K and lower the value for a brighter LED and raise the value for dimmer glow.

Here is a version with the DC jack:
(http://diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswleddc2.jpg)
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Andy on October 05, 2003, 09:02:23 PM
I know you have to use ohms law to dtermine the lowest value of the resistor, right?  How do you know the voltage drop of the led?  I have several that have different numbers on the package.  I have several that aren't in packages.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on October 05, 2003, 09:10:59 PM
Good Question:

Check out these two links:

http://astro.umsystem.edu/atm/ARCHIVES/MAY00/msg00989.html

and

http://astro.umsystem.edu/atm/ARCHIVES/MAY00/msg00959.html
Title: Lets not forget Jack's excellent site!
Post by: aron on October 07, 2003, 04:05:34 PM
http://www.muzique.com/schem/led.htm
Title: Resistor value
Post by: Cliff on October 17, 2003, 07:12:36 AM
Aron - I finally received my parts from Small Bear, so I'm nearly ready to go.  Have to be out of town for the best part of a week, so I'm not quite there.  One more question:

I ordered a blue LED from Small Bear, and it arrived with no markings on the package at all.  To calculate the size of the resistor, I will need the LED forward voltage and the LED current.  The Muzique.com calculator uses default values of 1.8 and 5, respectively, but these give you a value of 1440, pretty far from your approx 470.  How do I go about getting the two values for my particular LED.  Thanks.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on October 17, 2003, 02:39:25 PM
Just do the guessing way. Use a 5K pot in series or clip resistors in series with the LED. Try 2K (two 1K in series) and reduce the resistance until you get the LED  the brightness you want.

Once you figure that out, when you order those LEDs again, you can use your found value from then on.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: R&D on November 06, 2003, 12:44:59 PM
I believe the 470 ohm is a standard value. I have seen others use a higher resistor to keep current consumption of the 9 volt battery down.

Some of the LED's draw a good amount of current from the 9 volt battery. I usually use a resistance value closer to 1K ohm.

Hope that helps
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Joe Bonner on November 08, 2003, 12:06:36 AM
Hi Aron,

Do you mount the LED on perfboard, or do you simply attach extension leads to it and let it hang freely?

Thanks.

Joe
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on November 17, 2003, 01:41:22 AM
Drill a hole in the box, put an LED plastic mounting ring in there. Push the LED through and run the wires to the switch.

For the millenium, I mounted the perfboard by itself, and ran the wires to the LED and switch.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: RDV on November 22, 2003, 07:02:15 PM
I've been using 6.8K for my LED resistors and they're plenty bright for me to see, and the current consumption is around 1 milliamp or less so if you're using a battery it won't drain it too bad.

Regards

RDV
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Lanky on January 11, 2004, 01:09:13 AM
Sorry, I'm new to the board and rather inexperienced, but I plan on taking on this project when I get a little more time. One thing I'm sorta confused about though. If I use a 3PDT switch then it eliminates the need of a complicated bypass system such as the millenium, right?

Also, would you reccomend using a LED holder?

Lastly, I paid a visit to the radioshack website and noticed that the stereo input jacks come in packs of two. Is it okay to use two stereo imput jacks rather than one stereo and one mono?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on January 11, 2004, 05:22:59 AM
Welcome to the board! :D

A 3PDT would eliminate the need for a millenium, yes. And you can use two stereo plugs, sure. LED holders are good ;)

A millenium bypass isn't even that complicated, but it might be a pain to debug if it doesn't work... Using a 3PDT will always work.

Once you get building, you can't stop ;)
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Lanky on January 11, 2004, 10:49:45 AM
Thanks for the quick reply.

Sorry one more thing. I also don't need a JFET if I use a 3PDT right?

What would you recomend for a newbie like me? A DPDT with a millenium or a 3PDT without?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on January 11, 2004, 02:52:15 PM
Yes you need a JFET for a millenium, I think. JFETs are voltage controlled devices and regular transistors are current-controlled. So if you use a 3PDT you won't need the millenium bypass.

I'd recommend a 3PDT for anyone, it's a lot simpler but they're not always easy to find, that's why we have aron ;)
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Lanky on January 11, 2004, 05:08:50 PM
I reckon I can probably find one somewhere. Theres a few large surplus stores around.

While we're at it, in terms of pronouncing these terms:

Is JFET pronounced 'Jay fet' or 'J-F-E-T'?

and is LED pronounced 'led' or 'L-E-D'?

lol, sorry to trouble you with my newbish questions. :oops:
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on January 11, 2004, 05:15:55 PM
It's Jay-fet and led, if you ask me ;) Don't worry about newbish questions, I was a newbie 4 months ago, just like you are now. ;) In four months you might be answering questions :P It's fun!
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Lanky on January 11, 2004, 11:13:21 PM
I don't suppose anyone could take a picture of the inside of thier box, could they?

Also, this shouldn't have any knobs on it unless I adapt the design, right?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on January 12, 2004, 01:36:43 AM
It's got 1 knob, boost ;)
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Lanky on January 18, 2004, 09:40:06 PM
I'm having a little trouble figuring out how to attach the pot to the circuit. How exactly is this done?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Lanky on January 18, 2004, 09:45:29 PM
Nvm, got it.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 19, 2004, 01:36:39 AM
I've always heard Jay-FET and L. E. D.

Aron
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on January 19, 2004, 10:20:59 AM
Usually I say led because it's quicker :)
Title: its alive! how do i kill it?
Post by: sonofdirt on March 25, 2004, 06:25:07 AM
hey this is great! I think i've got it working, woohoo my first circuit! My only problem is that the input jack switching is not working... in other words, the power is running all the time and is not switched off when the plug is removed from the input jack...

as far as i can tell i've wired everything as shown... the only strange thing i ran across is that my mono output jack has 3 terminals instead of 2. Can you suggest a place to start troubleshooting?

also, just to make sure, the circuit is supposed to work like a volume knob of sorts correct??

thanks.
- Brian

i think i'll take on the BrassBlaster Bass Overdrive project next; anybody know of any other good Bass pedals to build?
Title: followup
Post by: sonofdirt on March 25, 2004, 07:48:13 AM
i think if someone gave me a thorough explanation of how the LED and stepdown resistor should be wired to the inputjack switch it would help alot. The only example of mounting the LED i see involves attaching it to a 3PDT switch... when the 3DPT is taken out of the equasion, the LED seems to have a constantl ycompleted circuit rom + to - on the 9V battery.

This is where im stuck. The LED is on no matter what and I am unable to tell if the rest of the circuit is drawing power form the battery with no plug inserted either. Am I making sense?

i appreciate the assistance.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: smoguzbenjamin on March 25, 2004, 10:30:46 AM
Well if you connect the LED/resistor combo to ground, and it's drawing current even without any plug inserted, you've miswired your input jack switch. Are you sure you wired the jack OK?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: slackhammer on March 27, 2004, 05:55:05 PM
Would it be possible for someone to post a picture of their bypass wiring box?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on March 27, 2004, 07:37:53 PM
The key is that the LED ground should connect to the SLEEVE of the input jack. Once you do this, when you unplug your guitar cable, the ring will not be connected to the ground of the input jack and the circuit is disconnected.

See the picture in this thread on how to connect the input jack.
Title: LED long leg short leg
Post by: gdmart on April 15, 2004, 12:47:15 AM
I have forgoten is the short leg of the led + or - thanks
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 15, 2004, 04:21:41 AM
The more important thing is that the flat side of the LED is the cathode or "line" in the symbol:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/diode.GIF)
Title: Led wiring
Post by: gdmart on April 15, 2004, 10:32:50 AM
so the cathode goes to ground or the antode to ground???
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 15, 2004, 02:00:06 PM
Sleeve is ground in this picture.

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg)
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jjucius on April 15, 2004, 07:05:40 PM
question, i'm putting 3 effects in one box. only 2 jacks in and out. do i run the out from one switch to the in of the next? and hook the effects to the in and outs of the switches?
Thanks
Joe
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 15, 2004, 09:25:51 PM
yes.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: hubble on April 24, 2004, 04:45:09 PM
aaron, on that board what are the input outputs?

on the GGG site he explained that the output on the board is usually the middle lug of the level pot.  so whats the input?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on May 20, 2004, 03:48:04 PM
Here you go.....

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/offboard.jpg)
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: bazzwazzle on September 06, 2004, 06:19:57 PM
when using the bypass, will i still have to have the 9V+ connected to the resistor, just the lug on the switch, or both?
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: bazzwazzle on September 08, 2004, 09:17:22 PM
arg, it worked earlier and now when wiring up the bypass it's not working again.  :cry:
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on September 08, 2004, 09:51:25 PM
It has to be something simple. Just triple-check your connections.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: bazzwazzle on September 08, 2004, 10:18:49 PM
Aron could you answer my above question please also? :)
thanks
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: bazzwazzle on September 08, 2004, 10:58:13 PM
ok, read my post above and this ;)

i think i might know how i wired it wrong. How do i know which way to hold the switch to make the right wirings or does that not matter. Cause when holding it at a different angle everything is messed up  :evil:
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: bazzwazzle on September 09, 2004, 01:18:38 PM
i did wire it wrong  :evil:  i held it so the lug hols are to the side >_< ARG time to rewire!
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on September 09, 2004, 03:24:31 PM
Yes, that's why I put that picture up above. The "correct" way is to use your multi-meter to test the switch, but for the blue ones I sell, the picture is enough.
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: badperson on November 05, 2004, 03:23:46 PM
okay, basic question;

i have all the parts for this and I'm going to try to put it together this weekend. What are the ground wires connected to? In other words, the wires that are indicated to go to ground in the diagram, are they soldered onto the enclosure somewhere?

also, again a basic question; does ground mean what it implies, that the circuit dead ends into the "ground" never to be hear from again?

also, to make sure I'm clear, the middle lug on the stereo jack (sleeve) has two wires connected to it, one to ground and the other to the led/switch. Is there anything to be careful of when soldering?

thanks.

bp
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on November 05, 2004, 03:46:56 PM
All grounds points connect together. This ground point in turn connects to the ground on your guitar cable. And yes, this ground implies - the ground:

http://www.brainyencyclopedia.com/encyclopedia/g/gr/ground__electricity_.html
Title: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: badperson on November 05, 2004, 04:19:24 PM
k, I see it;

so that ground point near the 47k resistor will have two wires soldered to it; going to the ground lugs on the jacks, right?

thanks!

bp
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: bluetubes on October 23, 2005, 05:25:40 PM
I have a quick question about the wiring of the power based on the picture in this thread.  What would happen if:

1) moved the battery snap positive lead to the middle of the 3PDT switch (Where the LED is currently)
2) moved the LED to the outer lug (where the power was) and connected the board power there as well

Wouldn't switching the effect into bypass mode also turn off the battery and save power?

Just curious,
BT
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: deadjason on December 08, 2005, 12:03:21 PM
Hi, I'm new here and new to effects building as well (I've been playing and modding guitars for well over 20 years though).  I have a pretty basic question, what is a good manufacturer for mice heavy duty foot switches?  I ordered from Newark, but the only thing they only had a sketch as opposed to a photo.  What looks right in a sketch can be different from what you get.  Looking at Mouser and other similar sites, I figured it's be better if I knew a manufacturer so I can get the right one.  This seems to be a very friendly site, and thanks in advance.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on December 08, 2005, 02:23:30 PM
>Wouldn't switching the effect into bypass mode also turn off the battery and save power?

Try it! Usually there's a big fat POP when engaged.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on December 08, 2005, 02:24:19 PM
> I have a pretty basic question, what is a good manufacturer for mice heavy duty foot switches?

If you want to order some, check out the store!  ;)

http://www.diystompboxes.com/cart/
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Jayco on January 05, 2006, 11:16:31 PM
Here you go.....

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/offboard.jpg)

Aron...  where you have the ground point located on the photo... is there any problem ground things all along the bottom bar (going between the two resistors)?

I found it easier to take the ground for the two jacks and the ground for the pot and place them through a hole in the perfboard and solder them along that bottom trace... just wanted to make sure that was considered "ok".

Jim
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: marchfaster on January 14, 2006, 01:19:33 PM
okay so i tried building this, and i checked my circuit board connection its all good...so the problem lies in the wiring.
im not really good with circuitry or anything so im just barely understanding this all
here's my problem though: i have the input/output connections okay the guitar plays in bypass mode...but once i press the switch my LED blinks (its a 6v LED off a 9v battery is that a problem, with a built in resistor) and the only sound that comes out is the electric POP of the LED going on and off...which i can make louder or softer with my potentionmeter. (my guitar makes no noise)
the other problem i have is a loud pop anytime the switch is pressed.
help!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 14, 2006, 04:00:19 PM
Quote
where you have the ground point located on the photo... is there any problem ground things all along the bottom bar (going between the two resistors)?

Never had a problem with any circuit doing it this way.

I've build a lot of hi-gain circuits and they are all fine.

Aron
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 14, 2006, 04:01:51 PM
>the other problem i have is a loud pop anytime the switch is pressed.

It sounds like you have voltage coming out of the pedal - there is definitely some sort of miswiring in your pedal.

In addition, you should probably not use a blinking LED. I did and it made noise as well.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: marchfaster on January 14, 2006, 04:21:11 PM
okay, so no blinking LED, so theres to much voltage...meaning i am missing a resistor somewhere correct?
could it be the lack of a resistor before the LED light? or is that not important?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: marchfaster on January 14, 2006, 05:32:50 PM
this is actually driving me insane!
i've checked everything a bunch, and obviously there's something im missing...
the guitar makes noise when its in bypass mode, but as soon as i hit the switch theres no noise...its all silenced...would that be a problem with the way i have my switch connected?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 14, 2006, 10:01:26 PM
Can you start a thread in the beginner forum (this forum) and also check this out:

http://www.elixant.com/~stompbox/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: marchfaster on January 20, 2006, 10:14:39 PM
well, i've moved back to pittsburgh for school...i'l be back in march to work on my pedal some more, then i'll try and fix it..
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Hiwatt25 on February 08, 2006, 11:31:52 AM
I'm brand new to the DIY scene and I have to say THANK YOU SO MUCH for this topic.  My confusion regarding the differences between SPST SPDT etc etc has been mounting for weeks.  I happened upon this forum by way of Analogman's site and when I read this post the clouds parted and the heavens smiled upon me.  Thanks so much for getting me pointed in the right direction!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on February 27, 2006, 01:03:45 PM
Great!!!!! Good luck on your next projects!

Aron
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: eXCeSS on March 29, 2006, 04:14:03 PM
Here's how the circuit would be connected to the jacks and LED+resistor:

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg)

In the above picture, the left jack is INPUT, the right jack is OUTPUT.
Notice how the LED is connected to the middle lugs. This helps to "isolate" the signals of the input and output but having the middle set of lugs between the two signals.

This is an advantage of using the 3PDT switches. Possible better isolation for signals and ease of use when connectiong an LED to indicate bypassed state.

The LED resistor will vary with your LED type. Start with 1K and lower the value for a brighter LED and raise the value for dimmer glow.

how do i do this without the led
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: coxter on April 13, 2006, 02:50:27 AM
OMG, so sorry for the super noob question.
But just checking on the nature of theses SPDT,DPDT and 3PDT switches.
They are just can switch without drawing any power right? (like the passive pick-up switch on my Les paul yeah?)

So basically the power from the batteries is just used to power the led in the bypass box issn't it?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 15, 2006, 10:00:04 AM
Yes, switches are passive like your Les Paul switch. The battery is to power the circuit and for the LED.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jcwillow777 on April 20, 2006, 09:36:20 AM
Aron:

I'm wiring a 3pdt switch into a Vox V-848 Wah pedal. The switch is working but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the LED working. I have looked at the picture countess times and I can't get it. I have wired all of the terminals as in the picture and the pedal works, but no luck with the LED. The pedal was already true bypass, I just want an LED.

1. I have soldered a wire to the middle center terminal and to the top center terminal for the LED and I am using jumper cables to try to get the LED to light.

2. I have soldered a 470 ohm resistor to the negative (cathode) lead of the LED. I have jumpered the resistor the middle terminal of the 3pdt and the positive (anode) lead to the sleeve of the input jack.

3. I am powering up the pedal with a 9 volt adapter so I am NOT using the positive lead terminal for the 9 volt battery. I have jumpered the top middle terminal of the 3pdt to the positive post where the 9 volt battery would hook up. NO LIGHT! I have also tried touching the wire from this same terminal to the positive post where the 9 volt adapter is soldered into the circuit board.

This is really driving me crazy. What am I doing wrong???

Greg
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jcwillow777 on April 20, 2006, 02:22:36 PM
I forgot to mention in my earlier post I hooked a jumper from the ring to the negative posdt for where the battery should go also.

I tired hooking up a 9 volt battery to see if I could at least get the LED to light up. I put the LED/resistor on the negative and positive connections where the 9 volt adapter hooks into the circuit board and the LED lit up. I took the 9 volt battery out and hooked up the adapter - the LED would not light. I don't get it?  ???
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 20, 2006, 04:57:53 PM
OK, since you are using jumpers, just try this:

(http://aronnelson.com/miscfiles/LED.jpg)

Connect the positive of the battery to where indicated and the negative to ground and see if the LED lights up.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jcwillow777 on April 20, 2006, 06:24:31 PM
I plugged the 9 volt battery into the wah adn put a cord in the input jack, then I jumpered to the place that the 9 volt taps into the circuit board and grounded the other end at the ground on the other ground connectionis to the circuit board and the ground at where the 9 volt adapter plugs into the the circuit board and the LED lights up.

I can't get it to light with the adapter plugged in and no battery hooked up.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 20, 2006, 08:16:23 PM
Quote
I can't get it to light with the adapter plugged in and no battery hooked up.

Then it's a simple matter of 9V not getting to where it's supposed to be or ground not being connected.

Use your meter and test for both possibilities.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jcwillow777 on April 20, 2006, 09:07:40 PM
Thanks for your input. I'm just a novice, I have a multi-meter but I'm really not sure how to trace it down.  I guess I'll just live with out an LED. I'm over my head, at least the pedal is still working. I was hoping is wasn't going to be this difficult.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Dannycasio on May 18, 2006, 02:54:58 PM
Hi everyone, I'm new to all this and am still trying to get my head around the 3pdt switch.

I'm making an A/B type box but with 2 ins and 2 outs. The parts have arrived but I'm still unsure how to wire this or whether it's even possible  :-\

The parts I have are:

1 x Hammond 1590B
2 x Stereo Input Jacks
2 x Output Jacks
4 x LEDs
1 x DC Power Jack
1 x Battery Clip
2 x 3pdt switch

I want the pedal to work so that only 1 input and 1 output work at any one time (not 2 in's and 1 out like an a/b/y box). I hope that makes sense.

Please can someone show me how I should wire the 2 switches? I'd also like to connect the 4 LEDs to the 3pdt switches so that I know which in/out is selected.
There are lots of pictures explaining the standard True Bypass operation of the 3pdt switch but none of an application like this. Maybe I'm just being blind.

Regards

Daniel
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: coxter on May 18, 2006, 11:35:02 PM
I don't understand what you're trying to build actually... hehe. Can you explain the kind of routing you would like to achieve ?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Dannycasio on May 19, 2006, 09:22:24 AM
I don't understand what you're trying to build actually... hehe. Can you explain the kind of routing you would like to achieve ?

Hi Coxter,

I want a signal switching pedal with 2 inputs, so I can plug a guitar in one and a microphone in the other and switch between the two instruments (input A or input B). From here the signal will go to one of two outputs which will be controlled by another switch (output A or output B).

Is this possible? How do I wire the 3pdt switches?

Daniel
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: vikingtyty on June 08, 2006, 08:23:21 PM
(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/offboard.jpg)

alright, so... sorry for the dumb question, but:

i solder all the components to the board, then solder the wires to the spots on that picture? correct?

oh and is this pedal true bypass? won't suck any tone?

edit - also... how do i go about putting it IN the box? i can't seem to find that anywhere, and that's my main problem.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Breke on June 09, 2006, 04:11:45 AM
Yep, If you wire it as is suggested it should be a true bypass. Mind, you don't always have to wire to the EXACT spots where the wires go on the picture, as long as it's connected to the right components.
When it comes to fitting it into to box, you might find that's one of the most tricky parts:). It facilitates if you have a box that's a bit larger than you actually need the first times, for example a Hammond 1590BB seized one where a Hammond 1590B would actually suffice. Do as much of the wiring as you can beforehand so can just fit it into place without having to solder it inside the box (You will probably have to solder the LED on place though). Keep the wires relatively short, you might think long wires makes it easier, but when they are longer than necessary they take up lots of space. Depending on the seize of the circuit and the room available in the the box, you may either fix it to the walls with Velcro, some screws, glue or something else that works, or you can just have it loose in the box suspended by the wires. Just make sure you insulate the inner walls with some tape or something where the circuit might touch, to prevent a short.
There aren't really any right or wrong, only ways to make it more or less neat. Just use some tender violence and it will work out fine:)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: vikingtyty on June 09, 2006, 03:32:37 PM
so i just put something underneath the circuit?

also, i saw people talking about a power supply other than a battery, how would i go about wiring that in? i'd rather plug it into the wall than use a battery.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: kenny404 on June 16, 2006, 12:56:00 AM
hey this is a really noobish question but does it really matter what kinda switch you use because i bought a spst switch from radio shack
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on June 16, 2006, 02:12:47 PM
Yes, you need a DPDT switch minimum for true bypass. If you use a DPDT ignore the LED lug connections.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Roobin on June 16, 2006, 02:19:42 PM
Sorry, I actually had a realy cool longish post, and it timed out  :'(
Yes, as Aron said, you do need a DPDT as a minimum. The SPST you have there will only be in 2 poistions: in, completeing the circuit, or out, cutting the circuit. FOr DIY, you need a switch that can switch and input between 2 paths - the SPDT. You need 2 of these, one on the input to the FX, one on the output, so that you can construct 2 paths: FX, or switching both, normal.

Have a read at geofex.com on the switching articles.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: buzzo83 on July 23, 2006, 12:05:32 AM
question! Would you mount the 1K resistor on the board, or do it another way???? :icon_question:
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on July 23, 2006, 12:31:27 AM
Good question. I usually mount it off the switch and use heat shrink on it to make it a little stronger.  Heck, sometimes it's hanging off the LED - along with heat shrink.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jcwillow777 on February 14, 2007, 08:18:17 AM
I am just finishing up my second NPN Boost. My first one came out great. I do want to experiment with some different transistors though. I do have a question on the 3PDT switch. I know how to wire it with a stereo input jack from the pictures that Aron posted - thank you very much!  :)  I did that on my first NPN Boost. But, I would like to use a mono input jack on this one instead. The reason is because I'm not going to use a 9V battery, so I don't need the cut off for power, I'm going to use a 9VDC jack.

So, how would I wire in a mono unput jack instead of a stereo one?

Thanks in advance.

PS - By the way, I figured out how to wire up LEDs in my Wah pedal, I did it in three pedals and I really love it.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jcwillow777 on February 14, 2007, 10:36:17 PM
So, how would I wire in a mono unput jack instead of a stereo one?

I got it with a little help from my friend - Brian Wampler.

Thanks a bunch! The pedal worked the first time I plugged it in and it sounds GREAT!!!

Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jimosity on June 01, 2007, 06:20:44 PM
I would like to build this circuit and put it in a guitar and have only a toggle switch to turn the effect on and off.
I use EMGs in all my guitars, should I just tap into the EMGs battery power to run this unit as well?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on June 01, 2007, 07:36:11 PM
If you are not going to use the battery snap, then you can either just omit it, or connect the black wire from the snap to the sleeve of the mono jack (instead of on the ring).

But this means that anytime you use a battery, the circuit is always on.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: muras on July 14, 2007, 02:33:43 PM
Sleeve is ground in this picture.

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg)

Hi guys,
Iīm using a DPDT (ON ON), should I appply the shcematic showned above?
Thanks ;)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 14, 2007, 02:38:38 PM
Yes you can, but without the led circuit.

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on July 14, 2007, 11:49:47 PM
Yes, ignore the vertical middle set of lugs (the ones with the LED connected to).
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: 12milluz on July 15, 2007, 11:10:58 AM
I was going to make this pedal and a killswitch pedal, when I realized, couldn't I just put a SPST button right after the input jack, but before the 3PDT switch?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 15, 2007, 11:24:26 AM
Better use a spdt switch to ground the 3pdt circuit input to avoid hum when you stomp on the kill switch and disconnect the input jack from the 3pdt.

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: muras on July 15, 2007, 11:26:48 AM
Yes, ignore the vertical middle set of lugs (the ones with the LED connected to).

Hi guys,
Thanks for the quick reply,
As I said so I have a DPDT (ON ON), but I forgot to mention that it only has 6 pins !
Iīve take a picture of it and try to conect them accordingly to Aronīs schematic but donīt know if it is right :-\
Could you guys give me a little help on this?
Thanks  ;)

(http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/6747/dpdtrx6.th.jpg) (http://img375.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dpdtrx6.jpg) 
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 15, 2007, 11:35:40 AM
No, it's not right. You have to eliminate the LED circuit, because you only have a dpdt. Or use the Millenium bypass concept in which you can have a loop and the LED with only a dpdt switch. Check it at: http://www.geofex.com/

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: 12milluz on July 15, 2007, 11:58:04 AM
Thanks for me too. Now could I also use another 3PDT switch and only wire one pole??(since I have to buy 2 anyways)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 15, 2007, 12:01:18 PM
Yes, you can.

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: 12milluz on July 15, 2007, 12:13:33 PM
Thanks for all the quick replies. ;D
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 15, 2007, 12:32:59 PM
If you need help or have any more questions just let me know. I was once a beginner too and just want to help.

Thanks,

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: 12milluz on July 15, 2007, 10:35:21 PM
I  have another question, is there a way so the killswitch also turns on the LED when activated?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 15, 2007, 10:52:38 PM
Yes, just use one of the two poles of the 3pdt switch used as the killswitch and wire it in the same manner as in the loop switch depending when you want the switch to turn on the LED during the muting action or when it let pass the sound.

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: 12milluz on July 15, 2007, 11:01:51 PM
So there would be two wires to the LED? Then you would run it to the battery before back to the switch, correct?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 15, 2007, 11:12:02 PM
Yes, one to the resistor (and to V+) and one to the switch.

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: coxter on July 16, 2007, 03:56:11 AM
Hi, I've built a few pedals before

Would like to inquire about a "NEW" type of wiring with the 3PDT switches.
Its different from the one mentioned on this thread, for eg. for this BSIABII
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bsiab2_lo.pdf

Whats with the complexity? When it does the same job anyway?
Or is it better?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 16, 2007, 07:37:44 AM
It's not really "new", it's just another way to wire the 3PDT. This method involve FX input shunt to ground to keep the FX quiet when bypassed.

CG
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: coxter on July 16, 2007, 01:26:13 PM
Yeah, I know its not "new" hence the qoutations.

Sorry, for sounding pesky...  But what good does that do?
The "old" one does disconnect the input and output completely, although not shunting inout to ground.
Wouldn't it be just as quiet?

Just inquisitive, got no bones to pick
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: CGDARK on July 16, 2007, 01:49:53 PM
Not exactly. Some circuits like high gain overdrives, distortions, fuzzes and modulation circuits like choruses, flangers, phasers and others may oscillate even when bypassed, because the fx itself is "floating" that's why it's better to shunt the input just to prevent that.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on July 16, 2007, 05:03:56 PM
It grounds the input when bypassed which is good. It's not really new and is described in the FAQ.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: ThatHilleyBoy on October 21, 2007, 02:59:35 PM
(http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg)

The blue wire from the bottom left to bottom right lugs, do i just connect those two lugs to each other?
I was very confused at first about what "varies with LED" meant, then i realized it was referring to ther resistor and not the blue wire.   ;D
*first post EVER, by the way!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: suprleed on December 02, 2007, 05:47:11 PM
What is the advantage of the grounded input wiring shown in the FAQ under bypass/wiring vs. the standard 3pdt wiring above.  The FAQ mentions something about "grounding the circuit while in bypass mode."  Can someone explain this in more detail and why it would be considered better than the standard wiring diagram above?  Thanks.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on December 03, 2007, 02:35:23 PM
For hi-gain pedals, it grounds the input-effectively like putting a volume knob on zero at the input.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: suprleed on December 03, 2007, 05:35:45 PM
For hi-gain pedals, it grounds the input-effectively like putting a volume knob on zero at the input.

I assume this would help eliminate/reduce any noise problems that often plague high-gain pedals?  I'm going to try to tackle one of Davisson's high-gain circuits for my seconds project so it sounds like this would be advisable.  Thanks again.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: macaroni on January 26, 2008, 04:03:34 AM
hey aron, im still lost on the switch thing. can u guide me to where i should wire wat?
(http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9252/dsc00197lq9.jpg)
correct me if im wrong^

(http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/5267/dsc00196bh8.jpg)

(http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4317/dsc00198kq9.jpg)

thanks man :icon_biggrin:
Title: no sound
Post by: clamhandsmcgee on April 25, 2008, 03:39:57 PM
I hooked up everything like it said, except i didn't have a stereo jack, so I used a mono jack.  I don't have a stomp switch.  I also hooked the negative battery snap to the ground of the mono jack (I don't think that's right).  Thanks.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 30, 2008, 05:22:54 AM
Follow the picture above with the blue switch, just ignore the middle lugs. So far the switch is wired correctly. Just need to add the jacks and bypass wire on the switch.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: dod6 on May 19, 2008, 11:28:09 PM
Aron,

If I'm using an aluminum enclosure, and am installing a dc jack, will my grounds interfere if the jack uses metal washers? What about putting some type of barrier (cloth, foam, etc.) under my circuit board to keep it from shorting? I'm extremely new to this, so any advice is helpful.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jonjon on May 20, 2008, 04:47:43 AM
Aron,

If I'm using an aluminum enclosure, and am installing a dc jack, will my grounds interfere if the jack uses metal washers? What about putting some type of barrier (cloth, foam, etc.) under my circuit board to keep it from shorting? I'm extremely new to this, so any advice is helpful.

i am no expert .but ... the metal washers did not affect mine . and i put some insulation tape on the face of my circuit  that touches the enclosure
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on May 20, 2008, 04:11:05 PM
It's negative ground so everything should be ok. I've used everything from cardboard (hehehe) with cable tie, to foam, to what R.G. said.... heavy duty velcro.

Good luck!

Aron
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: dod6 on May 20, 2008, 08:39:00 PM
I'm trying to use a RadioShack Size M dc jack w/ switch, but I can't figure out which lugs I need to connect my wiring too. Anyone else used this type that can help me out?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on May 20, 2008, 08:48:50 PM
I thought it had a diagram on the back of the package????

I've never used the Radio Shack one with the switch. Try your meter's continuity mode to buzz the lugs.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: dod6 on May 22, 2008, 10:17:03 PM
Aron,

I've got my board wired up and I used a hybrid between your drawing and the one found at http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/ . I am using a dc jack and battery, so i moved the led to the position shown on the beavis audio site. When i check voltage, I draw a blank. Could you draw in a dc jack for me so that I can clarify exactly how i connect the 3pdt switch. By the way, thanks for getting that order out to me so fast the other day. Great site and project!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GabeI on July 17, 2008, 07:41:25 PM
hey this is my first project and its not working. i'm troubleshooting, but when its plugged in, the battery is on FIRE (well not really but its pretty hot). whats causing this?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GabeI on July 17, 2008, 08:18:30 PM
nvm it turns out i had a ground to both the input and the ouput jacks. when i removed the ground wire from the input, the LED started working and the battery did not heat up. but the pedal still doesnt work.

Question: in the picture of the circuit board and the 5k pot, it says back of the 5k pot. do you mean looking at it from the bottom (as in the knob turn thing is facing the floor) or from the other side as in the 3 loops are facing you and the knob is facing up/the ceiling.

sorry for the noob questions
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: chrisbtz on July 18, 2008, 02:45:38 PM
HI, Aron. (http://www.diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswled.jpg) in this picture, Does the wire go from the positive terminal on the battery snap to the board and then the Switch, or directly from the battery snap to the switch? (the purple wire) Thanks
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on July 19, 2008, 02:09:31 PM
It goes to the board. Then at the board you run a wire to the switch.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: chrisbtz on July 19, 2008, 03:52:31 PM
kewl thanks. I hope to build this this weekend. I'll post if anymore questions arrise.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: vortico on January 08, 2009, 06:03:36 PM
This is a total noob question, but if guitar cables are unbalanced and mono, why a stereo input?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 08, 2009, 06:30:59 PM
Great question and time for you to read the FAQ link above. Specifically look at the JACKS section:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/wiki/index.php?title=DIY_FAQ
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: vortico on January 10, 2009, 02:06:57 PM
Ah, I see. That makes sense. Thanks.
I'm in the process of reading the entire FAQ. It's great so far!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: NumBass on January 16, 2009, 11:24:21 PM
the only switches i can get around here are on/off switches.    like....... two connectors.......either connected or not connected (lol)   is there any way to make these work?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 17, 2009, 01:07:13 PM
That's not enough connectors unfortunately. There's a STORE link above :-)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: NumBass on January 17, 2009, 11:39:02 PM
alright...thought id ask lol.   im ordering them now :D
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: NumBass on January 18, 2009, 05:00:59 PM
alright another ?.... ,While im waiting for my switch to come in, do u put the 47 uF Cap behind the 5K Pot, and then hook that to the 47K and 100K resistors that go to ground, or does the Cap and Pot go after the resistors??     
BTW - im almost done but it looks REALLY crappy (the soldering job) because the last time i soldered was two years ago and cuz all we have right now is a thick gauge solder :'(    I think it should turn out fine though, hopefully, lol.
(note to self: go buy thinner solder...*scribbling noises*)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: NumBass on January 26, 2009, 04:21:51 PM
soooooo its been like two weeks and no one has answered my ? above ^.......could anyone answer please??
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Gordon on April 15, 2009, 10:07:46 PM
Hello!
I am using a DPDT switch for the bypass. When the bypass is engaged, the sound is fine, but when I switch the effect on, all I get is a quiet hissing sound. As I turn up the potentiometer, the hissing gets louder, but there is still no sound from my guitar. What should I do?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 15, 2009, 11:02:41 PM
It sounds like the circuit is working and that somehow you have mis-wired the switch so the circuit doesn't get signal. Alternately, you have a bad solder joint right at the beginning of the circuit and your guitar signal is not reaching the base of the transistor.

Aron
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Voodoo Blues on July 28, 2009, 10:27:36 PM
Here is a version with the DC jack:
(http://diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswleddc2.jpg)


Aron, Why isn't ring lug on the input jack needed in the circuit with the DC jack is engaged?

When I looked up the connection diagram of the DC Jack it said to connect one lug to board - and battery - (see link) but that's not the way it's hooked up in the above picture.

Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=93 (http://Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=93)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on July 28, 2009, 10:58:52 PM
It should work fine as above. The ring is used to turn the circuit off when the battery is used. When the battery is not used, then you don't need to worry about switching it on or off. Of course you can connect that DC jack tab to the ring too if you want.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Voodoo Blues on July 30, 2009, 08:21:18 PM
Of course you can connect that DC jack tab to the ring too if you want.

That's the way I have it wired right now, I just wasn't sure if it would work (bypass the battery). Thanks Aron.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GarySpence on August 05, 2009, 01:28:14 PM
Hi Everyone,
 
So, finally got the boost built. Happy days! LED and switch working fine. The only thing is that instead of boosting the volume, when clicked on it actually reduces the volume!!! As the effect is working in reverse I assume I've soldered one of the components back-to-front? Any ideas what this could be as I can't see what it is I've done wrong. Where should I start... :) Despite that I had a blast doing this!

Cheers
Gary
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: .Mike on August 05, 2009, 02:08:52 PM
Hi Everyone,
 
So, finally got the boost built. Happy days! LED and switch working fine. The only thing is that instead of boosting the volume, when clicked on it actually reduces the volume!!! As the effect is working in reverse I assume I've soldered one of the components back-to-front? Any ideas what this could be as I can't see what it is I've done wrong. Where should I start... :) Despite that I had a blast doing this!

Cheers
Gary

Hi there,

If I recall correctly, having the transistor backwards can cause a reduction in gain instead of a boost.

Double-check the orientation of your transistor. If you look at the schematic, it lists B, C, and E. Google the transistor you used along with the word "datasheet." The datasheet will show an image of your transistor, and list which pins are B, C, and E. Make sure the right pins are connected to the right place.

:)

Mike
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on August 05, 2009, 02:58:57 PM
Make sure you also have power going to the transistor. Use your meter to measure the DC voltage at the pins of the transistor. Put the black on ground and use the red probe to measure the voltages at the pins.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GarySpence on August 05, 2009, 03:47:54 PM
 ???

Thanks Mike. Got the datasheet and check the pins were in the right sockets. What strange is that the sound of the the effect stays the same no matter what what the transistor is connected . It's the same when I take it out too!

Hey Aron. Black to ground and red to a pin at a time. Nada. Could the .1uf Capacitor be the wrong way round or does this not matter?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on August 05, 2009, 04:00:01 PM
> Black to ground and red to a pin at a time. Nada.

What does this mean? No voltage reading?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GarySpence on August 05, 2009, 04:01:20 PM
Sorry, no voltage reading.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on August 05, 2009, 04:03:07 PM
OK, then you have no voltage going to the transistor/circuit. That's your problem.

Take a close look at how you wired the input jack and check your battery to make sure it's not dead.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GarySpence on August 05, 2009, 04:41:44 PM
Found some dodgy connections to the transistors. Thanks for the help.  :icon_wink:
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on August 05, 2009, 04:47:39 PM
great. Good luck debugging!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Richy78100 on August 25, 2009, 08:55:33 PM
Thx this helped me alot but if im not going to use a 9v battery can i use a mono jack and leave that part off?
(http://diystompboxes.com/beginner/circswleddc2.jpg)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on August 26, 2009, 04:02:07 AM
Yes. You should be able to do that.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: insomniac on December 10, 2009, 04:51:07 AM
hey everyone!

i hooked everything up and it all seem to be working fine except for the damn LED!

the only significant change i made is to connect the battery (-) to the circuit ground and the input ring to the circuit ground seperately (as shown in this picture),
instead of shortening the battery (-) to the input ring and from there to the circuit ground.

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_o0u21IZh23I/SyDC51JcZ_I/AAAAAAAAAIc/VHU8FTpIizE/s576/npn_booster.jpg)

i figured it should work..
is it possible this is the reason why the LED doesn't light up?

if it is the reason why the LED doesn't light up, could you please explain to me why shouldn't it work?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on December 10, 2009, 08:29:27 PM
I would connect the battery negative to the ring because that will act as a switch to save battery life. Otherwise, it's going to constantly drain the battery.
Maybe you have the LED oriented the wrong way or have a too large resistor value?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: insomniac on December 11, 2009, 04:10:22 AM
ok, i wired everything up exactly the way the original figure shows, and it works now D:

umm.. i used a 4k7 resistor, i guess the light is ok.

last question, is it ok that the LED turns on when i press the footswitch even if there's no cable plugged in?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GroovyMan on December 15, 2009, 08:27:11 AM
I think is fine as long as you're running off the DC socket. If you're using a battery the LED shouldn't come on until you have an input cable plugged in.
Ben
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jimmybjj on January 03, 2010, 07:58:35 PM
is the pot in the project necessary? would the circuit work without it?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jimmybjj on January 03, 2010, 08:49:14 PM
Is the 47uf on the pot correct? Is the value correct? I can't seem to find that value on small bear. Is it supposed to be .47uf?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 03, 2010, 11:09:21 PM
Yes, the pot is the level control. The 47uF is correct. You can purchase all the parts from the STORE link above.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: MBackus on January 05, 2010, 09:59:52 PM
oookay.  So maybe I'm a complete N00B.... But I've built this and I'm about to try and plug it in for the first time.   But one thing has me real confused.  Where does the transistor go?  I built the actual circuit twice, but nowhere in the steps does it call for the installation of the transistor.   ???
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: MBackus on January 05, 2010, 10:32:13 PM
K. So I put it in the very obvious place the transistor would go.  On the three pin socket. But, which way does it go?  Both ways increase the volume, one way is not as much of a boost.  The other gets much more of a boost, but has a little distortion in the end.  My guess is the first way, but this step is not documented anywhere that I've seen.  :icon_eek:
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: MBackus on January 05, 2010, 10:41:34 PM
Got it.  Will post some pictures soon once i house it.  Thanks for the help.  Can't wait to move onto project two! :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Humboldts Finest on January 15, 2010, 08:50:25 PM
I've got a quick question. I want to use two leds to signal when the boost is on (my pedal is gonna be a Big Titties Silicon Boost) get it? So I'm gonna use identical leds as part of the artwork Would I do this is parallel or series? Would the resistor value be different when using two leds instead of one?

Thanks, Brian
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: sbh on January 27, 2010, 06:29:52 PM
I spent quite some time looking, so it may help to have a picture of the DPDT switch wiring w/LED on the same thread as 3PDT.

(http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/dpdtled.JPG)

Hope it helps.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on January 27, 2010, 06:34:34 PM
>So I'm gonna use identical leds as part of the artwork Would I do this is parallel or series? Would the resistor value be different when using two leds instead of one?

I assume you want both on and off at the same time. Simple wire as shown, but use two led+resistor strings. You can use a shared resistor as well.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: isaksson on April 19, 2010, 07:24:27 AM
hi,new to the forum,i hope this is the correct place to post.

what type of wire should i use to connect the jacks/switch to the circuits?

also,regarding to pots,i know of the different types (linear,audio,reverse audio),i have a 100k volume pot,can i use it for,say,the FAB echo mod?

apologies for the noob question,but im pretty much interested to learn if you guys are willing to teach ;)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 21, 2010, 01:21:57 AM
Welcome to the forum. There is a Wiki link above that answers all of your questions. Basically you can use any taper pot, just that the taper might not be "optimized" but it will work. I like stranded wire most of the time since it doesn't break as easily as solid core.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Giordash on April 23, 2010, 11:51:22 AM
Does anyone have a sound clip of this up somewhere?  I just finished the build and wanted to match it against others that have been built.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 24, 2010, 05:13:12 PM
Doug had some clips up at one point. It should make your guitar sound punchier and a little brighter. Turning up the drive causes overdrive at higher settings.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: rschultz on January 23, 2011, 09:56:46 PM
Hi,

   [I'm a newbie]
   How can I take this diagram and add a 2nd LED... one for ON, the other for BYPASS?

Thanks.
Ryan

(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_o0u21IZh23I/SyDC51JcZ_I/AAAAAAAAAIc/VHU8FTpIizE/s576/npn_booster.jpg)
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Barcode80 on January 23, 2011, 10:02:08 PM
Take the +9v wire you are running to the switch, and swap it's connection spot with the connection spot of the 1K resistor on the switch that goes to the LED. THen wire the resistor that is on the other LED to the bottom lug, the one between the bypass jumper lugs. In the picture, that means "FX On" LED resistor goes to top row, center lug. +9v from the board goes to the middle row, center lug. The "Off" LED resistor goes to the bottom row, center lug.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: tgras141 on April 06, 2011, 09:04:01 PM
Hey aron,
I realize that you may never get this seeing that I'm the first in like 3 months to comment, but would putting a spst switch interruptiing the negative of the battery to the board let the signal run through yet? or when it is off, would it cut everything out? (I have no led)
Thank you much!!
Tyler
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on April 07, 2011, 02:03:46 AM
If it is in bypass mode, doing whaT you said would still allow signal to go through. You might get a pop when turning the power back on.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: novakram on April 24, 2011, 10:18:49 AM
I built this pedal about 10 months ago with a battery snap and only today have I finally got around to adding a DC jack. Thought I'd post my experience to help others! (and see if what I've done is safe!)

The DC jack I had/have has two prongs and a centre flat piece of metal (from bitsbox).
I had a quick look at the drawings in this thread and thought "that's easy". That was about the only time I thought for the next 10 minutes...here's what I did:

Soldered three pieces of wire onto the DC jack a black wire (to ground on the board), a red wire from one prong going to the red battery snap, and a red wire from the other prong going to the input on the board.

....

Yeah.

I tested it, battery wires started to catch fire. I switched it off!

What I've done now is removed the battery snap completely - I have the black still going to the circuit ground from the centre flat of the DC jack and a red from a prong to the board input. I just snipped the wires where the battery snap was and didn't replace either of them.

Edit - to clarify, there is nothing coming from the input jack prong that went to the battery ve-. (Where I've said board input above, I mean the power ve+ vero line.

So, I have a question: is what I've done OK?

AND, fellow newbies, BE CAREFUL!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: JebemMajke on April 29, 2011, 05:37:18 PM
What if i put a 10 k pot? And also i would like to add that Beavis Audio BMP tone control ( http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/BigMuffToneControl/ ).
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: gnort_2 on July 09, 2013, 04:33:14 PM
I have a 3pdt switch from the diystompbox store.  When wiring it in the beginner project I know I want the lugs horizontal so it will match the wiring examples.  The only problem is that there are two ways to wire up the switch with having the lugs horizontal.   Does it matter?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: mistahead on July 09, 2013, 08:03:14 PM
Yes!

Orientate the switch so holes are "vertical":

---
---
---

Not horizontal:
|||
|||
|||

Play with an LED, your 4.7K and a 9V battery and that switch, when put vertically its actually just three switches from left to right that all click together.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: mistahead on July 09, 2013, 08:04:48 PM
As it happens I was about to show you:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=102718.40

But scroll up - see the way the lugs are in the 3pdt image just a little here - thats what I meant by "verticle holes"
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: gnort_2 on July 09, 2013, 08:53:05 PM
Yes!

Orientate the switch so holes are "vertical":

---
---
---

Not horizontal:
|||
|||
|||

Play with an LED, your 4.7K and a 9V battery and that switch, when put vertically its actually just three switches from left to right that all click together.

There are two ways to do this though:

                        Side 1

Side 2.              ---             Side 4
                         ---
                         ---

                      Side 3



Or

                        Side 3


Side 4.               ---        Side 2
                          ---
                          ---
                      Side 1



Were --- are lugs
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: mistahead on July 09, 2013, 09:02:57 PM
The lugs have holes, if you orientate it correctly the holes are Up and Down...
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: gnort_2 on July 09, 2013, 09:05:14 PM
Got that, didn't know if there was specific sides to switch though, there are two ways to rotate the switch  so the holes are up and down, does it matter?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: aron on July 09, 2013, 09:35:29 PM
nope

Aron
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: gnort_2 on July 09, 2013, 10:04:51 PM
nope

Aron

Thanking you as always
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Jdansti on July 10, 2013, 05:06:09 AM
Here's a visual way to think of it. Each "column" of lugs when oriented the way that Aron explained is a SPDT switch. All three SPDT switched operate simultaneously.

(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/2FC7A925-6737-45B4-95E9-B86A8B37B481-14692-00001124A9B0FEB7.jpg)
Title: Re: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Howard on June 13, 2014, 09:51:59 AM
Hi. So what 4PDT footswitches do you prefere? Have got some from TAYDA that works well, but they are mechanically hard/noisy.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Jdansti on June 13, 2014, 06:16:53 PM
I don't know.  Use the noisy ones from Tayda.  ;)

Maybe someone else knows of some softer/quieter latching switches.

If it's really a problem and you can't find quiet ones, you could use some fancy circuitry to latch a relay.
Title: Re: Sv: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Howard on June 14, 2014, 07:20:38 PM
Hrrmf. I just found that one of the three sw I got has a fault. Have made some request about the origin of these switches, which seems to be hard to reveal. First they were said to be made by a company called PIC, then they were said to be made by DAIER. However DAIER seemingly (only) makes black 4PDT's, though they imply they COULD be made by them... Chinese accuracy..
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Jdansti on June 14, 2014, 10:34:04 PM
To clarify my earlier post, the word "I" was left out of the second sentence.  I meant to say "I use the noisy ones", not "Use the noisy ones".   :icon_redface:
Title: Re: Sv: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: Howard on June 15, 2014, 04:36:24 AM
Got that :-) Anyone familiar withe these switches from Mammoth http://www.mammothelectronics.com/mobile/Product.aspx?id=27 ? Tayda as well?
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: olewaylon on August 13, 2015, 05:27:47 PM
very noob question.  what way should I start wiring on the switch. I tried to make an A/B box but I'm worried I was wiring the switch while it was sideways.
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: bluebunny on August 14, 2015, 04:02:50 AM
First of all, orient your switch so that the lugs are horizontal:

(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-N_Hs-ohXzr4/Ui5mVdhZrCI/AAAAAAAAAKg/lb8csmab3Es/s400/Pushbutton+Switch.jpg)

There are three switches in a 3PDT.  Each of these three switches corresponds to a column in the diagram.  So "Switch #1" has the common lug 2 connecting alternately to lug 1 or lug 3.

Edit: John already posted a very good picture on the previous page too!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: GGBB on August 14, 2015, 10:08:42 AM
very noob question.  what way should I start wiring on the switch. I tried to make an A/B box but I'm worried I was wiring the switch while it was sideways.

Diagrams are always very useful, but it's even more useful to learn how to figure it out without a diagram. In the case of a 3PDT switch (the principle can be applied generally to any switch), use your multimeter* to check continuity between any two adjacent lugs, and when you find two that are connected, you have found one pole of the switch. The third lug of that pole will be "in line" with the two that are connected, with the middle one being "common." When you toggle the switch, that third lug will become connected to the common lug. The other two columns (or rows) of lugs will be the other two poles of the switch.

*Don't have a multimeter? You absolutely need one for this hobby!
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: berestie on December 16, 2015, 06:23:11 AM
 ;D ;D
Title: Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
Post by: jdom1984 on September 17, 2019, 09:27:46 AM
mind...



blown...


 :o