I've built it but the signal is either too fuzzy or too loud depending on where I turn the trim. Even when it is loud you can hear the fuzz creep in as the guitar signal fades out. I've jotted down my voltages, if anyone has a working one and could post, I'd be incredibly grateful. Or if anyone has suggestions on where to audio probe to find the problem, that would be great, too. Like where I hsould be hearigjn clean signal after pin 1 on the bottom left opamp.
Here's the schem. Unfortunately, there hasn't been a revised one for the Gstring with matching components (duals dropped for quads.)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l2NRTEh3J54/T-8ppoN5mNI/AAAAAAAABm0/L-RQt6ykI84/s1600/ispscheme.jpg
Here's the layout:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/3565959/ISP%20G-String%20Public.pdf
I've used tl074 instead of the lf347.
Here are my voltages: 9.54 at input
Bottom left opamp:
8.85
8.85
0
0
4.0
4.4
4.4
8.85
Bottom right quad:
4.4
4.4
4.0
8085
4.4
4.4
4.3
4.5
4.4
4.4
0
4.3
4.3
3.8
top right quad:
3.6
3.6
3.5
8.85
4.6
4.6
6.4
5.6
2.6
2.6
0
4.4
4.4
4.4
Top left dual:
4.4
4.4
4.4
0
3.4
4
2.2
8.85
THAT IC:
4.4
3.7
4.4
0
1.54
4.11
8.85
4.4
Are you connect your trimpot like this?
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/8024/decimtrimpot.jpg)
yeah, I initially tried a trimpot and then flipped it and then used a standard pot but all the same thing. terribly fuzzy 75% of rotation, starts cleaning up and getting louder, goes past unity volume and is about good, but still can hear some fuzziness, especially when the signal starts to die out.
Maybe there is something wrong after the trim, as I gather it controls voltage to a few of the chips. That's why I am hoping someone will post there WORKING voltages up.
Well, I figured I'd build another one. And it's good to go. Still trying to debug the first one I build, though. I am going to post working voltages on the mega thread page for folks trying to debug in the future.
Good job ;)
sorry did not give you more help
Hello Friends,
I seem to have run in a similar problem. I cannot find any obvious problems and have checked the pcb and soldering joints carefully with a binoclular microscope. No bad joints, no interlacing traces. Besides some resistors I had to manufacture in series I used all components named in Galegos layout and the corresponding offboard wiring (this one http://imageshack.us/a/img402/9002/offboardwiring.jpg).
The thing just doesn't work. Somehow a distorted sound comes through when the noise reduction potentiometer is completely closed and the trim pot is about half open. When turning them further sometimes a scratchy sound appears and then vanishes swiftly.
I figured that in order to eliminate other potential sources of faults (namely some noisy beginner's fuzzes i put in the loop in the first test setup) it would be best to test it like this: guitar -> guitar in and git out -> dec-in and dec –out-> amp. That should work, shouldn't it?
@ jmasciswannabe: have you debugged your first attempt? Where/how did you start.
@all: Has anybody yet recorded voltage read-outs from a working board? Where would you start? I find it difficult to debug that one due to the Dec-In/Out loop that overloads my small brain in terms of signal flow.
Any suggestions welcome. Although I guess I'll etch another board soon and just start all over. Good thing i socketed the ICs.
Lars
EDIT: I just saw that this is my first post in this forum. I am following you since quite a while and I really like what I'm reading here. Thanks to all of you contributing this fine circuits and layouts. And of course all of you who helped others and will help me in the future!
Problem solved. After intense audioprobing I found the initially socketed the 1N5819 guilty. Removed socket, removed problem, removing noise now.
Hi guys!
1) I`m sorry for my bad English, I`m Russian, I`m learn:)
2) Thank`s you for watching!
I finished build my G-String (Slade`s circuit), but I have problems. When I set "Threeshold" on 70%, Decimator is don`t work, the signal is disappears.
I decided to test PCB.
(http://box.iptel.by/f/69022_b5b.jpg)
5,1k resistor is work but signal is lost! ???
Can you say me what i must verify for normal work my g-string?
@Versus
Looks like some pretty close traces in that area. Did you look at the solder side of your board to make sure there are no solder bridges?
No soldier bridge! All carefully!
Quote from: Versus on February 02, 2013, 05:29:43 PM
No soldier bridge! All carefully!
Next step:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0
which scheme is used in Slade`s layout? Can you post me?
Hi guys! I set up my g-string and now he is work but when I wring max gain on my distortion (Wampler Triple Wreck) - noise skipped. Is it normal ?
I have some troubles with this build too, with my audio probe I can trace the signal going to the THAT2181, but mutes between the 20k and pin 1 of the THAT. There used to be a big iSP topic somewhere, but I can't seem to find it?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88902.0 leads to "The topic or board you are looking for appears to be either missing or off limits to you."
Any first thoughts before I measure all voltages on the THAT?
Are you sure you're using the C version of the THAT2181C? There are a few other versions that have been reported not to work in the Decimator
Jep: C version.
Quote from: Versus on February 03, 2013, 08:00:53 AM
Hi guys! I set up my g-string and now he is work but when I wring max gain on my distortion (Wampler Triple Wreck) - noise skipped. Is it normal ?
I'm not sure what you mean by 'wring max gain'. It would also help to know where the Decimator is in your signal chain. I used mine first, before any distortion. That way it cuts any noise before it gets amplified. Some guys run the noise gates last to deal with noise introduced by having lots of effects. I found that that didn't work as well. It was much better at stopping noise earlier in the pedal chain. But if there's buzz or hum in your signal, it will let that through with your playing. It won't start gating until the signal its getting from your guitar is over a certain loudness, as set by the threshold.
From your earlier post where you were having your signal cut out when the threshold was at 70%. That's normal. When you set the threshold high, it needs an even louder signal going into it before it stops gating and lets your signal through. I have two actual Decimators, not DIY builds, and they both work best at about 9 o'clock to 10:30, well under 50% of the pot's rotation. Any more than that, and it barely let's my signal through. If you're running it after other pedals that boost your signal, you might need to set it higher.
I just finished up a build using Slade's layout and it's working just like my stock units. It's not the G String, but I'll see if I can post some voltages when I get home from work tomorrow or Tuesday. Does anyone know what the trimpot does? I didn't even need to touch it and it sounded fine.
No offence but, In my most humble opinion, running the Decimator first in your signal chain is kinda like wiping your butt before you take a crap! :icon_lol:
Connect the Decimator INPUT to the loop "send" and Decimator OUTPUT to the loop "return". Place all high gain/distortion pedals in front of the amp/preamp and Decimator INPUT. You can put your Delays, Reverbs, chorus pedals etc after the Decimator and before the loop return to avoid cutting off reverb, delay repeats or whatever...
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 27, 2014, 02:02:40 AM
No offence but, In my most humble opinion, running the Decimator first in your signal chain is kinda like wiping your butt before you take a crap! :icon_lol:
Connect the Decimator INPUT to the loop "send" and Decimator OUTPUT to the loop "return". Place all high gain/distortion pedals in front of the amp/preamp and Decimator INPUT. You can put your Delays, Reverbs, chorus pedals etc after the Decimator and before the loop return to avoid cutting off reverb, delay repeats or whatever...
Then you just have your noise coming from somewhere else. I've never had noisy cables/pedals/preamps. It's always started at the guitar. If you've got hum or buzz coming in from somewhere, the trick is to have the gate kill it before something else amplifies it. After it's amplified, you've got to turn the threshold up to match and then your note decays suffer. The one I just built is doubled up with an Engineer's Thumb. They work perfectly together. The Decimator stops the noise before the compressor can bring it up. It's like taking a whole lotta Metamucil and never needing to wipe, cause the poo was already nice and clean going through. I've heard of some guys using two Decimators though. One in front and one in the loop. The first one gates any noise before it gets amplified, the second one takes care of noise that's gotten in further down the signal chain. I haven't used a G String yet, but I've never needed anything more than the initial gate at the front of my board.
The recommended position of a noise gate in your effects chain is all the way at the back. Gernerally people want to kill noise from a drive/distortion/fuzz. Non-G-Stringed Decimators won't perform well at that position because with a switchable drive, your dynamic range is way too big for a tight noise gate.
That's what's so brilliant about the G-String: it "listens" to your guitar signal before compressing/expanding/etc and mutes a loop according to the input volume.
... if you can get your G-String to work ;)
Quote from: mremic01 on January 27, 2014, 01:33:08 AMDoes anyone know what the trimpot does? I didn't even need to touch it and it sounded fine.
You can/must use the trimpot to set unity volume. I don't add a bypass to mine, so I have to check unity volume with a separate bypass looper.
I don't know what you guys are doing that you're drive pedals are causing noise. Even with super gainy stuff like DR Boogey, I've only had oscillation when I didn't ground the input and the gain was turned all the way up. Any noise I've ever gotten has been amplified by those pedals, not caused by them. Nip them in the bud, and there's no noise left to amplify. At the end of the chain has done nothing for me regarding feedback too. The feedback gets amplified by whatever I'm using for a boost and gets strong enough to get past the gate. But with the gate first, it never gets loud enough to start a feedback loop. But yeah, if your rig is noisy, you put it after what's causing the noise.
Quote from: mremic01 on January 27, 2014, 02:19:25 PMI don't know what you guys are doing that you're drive pedals are causing noise.
My Kafuzz (Big Muff) is always on, and my WH10 makes all kinds of noise when engaged, especially when the Kafuzz and Distortion 15 amplify that. I even can hear my Ross Phaser phasing when I mute my guitar ... that's why I have a G-String (center) in my rig: works perfectly.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3lCA6tjrLdg/UqTFh1j7D2I/AAAAAAAAGqw/OrJ9rOS_AVA/s912/IMG_20131208_201548.jpg)
But we're not here to judge each other's hiss, but to fix some G-Strings. Mine has no signal on pin 1 of the THAT chip.
Quote from: mremic01 on January 27, 2014, 02:19:25 PM
I don't know what you guys are doing that you're drive pedals are causing noise. Even with super gainy stuff like DR Boogey, I've only had oscillation when I didn't ground the input and the gain was turned all the way up. Any noise I've ever gotten has been amplified by those pedals, not caused by them. Nip them in the bud, and there's no noise left to amplify. At the end of the chain has done nothing for me regarding feedback too. The feedback gets amplified by whatever I'm using for a boost and gets strong enough to get past the gate. But with the gate first, it never gets loud enough to start a feedback loop. But yeah, if your rig is noisy, you put it after what's causing the noise.
Quite a bit off base there.
Specifically a side-chained noise gate is not meant to go after the noisiest pedal, the side-chain signal is your guitar, you want it to turn the gate on and off based on if you are playing something on the guitar or not. By placing the gate in the FX loop when you are not playing the guitar at all, the FX loop becomes an open and kills all volume, that way you are not depending on all your amp gain and noise getting passed the gate, because the gate reacts to the raw guitar signal, not all the gain you added to it. You stop playing guitar, or rather, the pickup signal drops below the set threshold, the gate turns off no matter what is on the gate input. The gate reacts to the side-chain signal and the side-chain signal only.
The biggest reason for a noise gate is to kill uncontrollable feedback when playing at high gain and high volume. If you play hard rock and metal, band rehearsals and shows are a nightmare without them as even if your amp is at low volume, your pickups interacting with the FOH in small venues/bars will still cause feedback. If the 4-input style noise gates like the G-String are used correctly, they do eliminate all noise and all uncontrolled feedback (but only when not playing), even those created by pedals.
I will also add, the reason the topic does not show up is because it was deleted. Some newbie idiot came in the thread about wanting to build one and then asked about patent infringements, then asked owner/mod of this site to delete his posts and around the same time the company in question made note that they were informed of possible patent violations (coincidence?) which wasn't the case because no one was building and selling them for profit or trying to pass it off as their own design, but I digress. Most recent threads on the topic were blocked, then shortly deleted, and some of us moved over to the members only forum to talk about some of the non-patented technologies and went off to create our own noise gate from scratch based on similar performance figures, the company and product were never mentioned and that thread was thus locked and then about a month later deleted. I imagine the same will happen to the two new ones that were bumped, screenshot them while you can.
Here's the component numbers according to this schematic: http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string.jpg
(http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_numbers.png)
http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_numbers.png (http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_numbers.png)
In my build my signal mutes between R3 and the THAT.
I found this differences between the layout and the schematic:
Component Schematic Layout
D3 1N4148 2x1N4148
D4 1N4148 2x1N4148
R9 27K 51K
R10 100K 150K
R12 10M 20M
R13 20K 12K
R14 20K 12K
R30 10K 20K
R32 68K 22K
R37 620R 560R
Missing from the layout: C3 and R32
Quote from: TheWinterSnow on January 27, 2014, 04:24:11 PMsome of us moved over to the members only forum to talk about some of the non-patented technologies and went off to create our own noise gate from scratch based on similar performance figures
Cool! :icon_biggrin:
Got a link/name?
And the THAT voltages: (Vin = 9.07v)
1 7.55v
2 8.34v
3 8.24v
4 8.34v
5 5.41v
6 8.25v
7 9.07v
8 7.60v
I seem to have a problem with Vr, whch is 8v atm. ??? I'll check that tomorrow ...
@Harold
So many questions in the layout that you posted above....
- Where does C2 connect to? One side goes to R1... the other goes off into never land ???
- Where is the Trimmer that goes below R36? Should be 1M correct?
- This looks like the G-string version but, I don't see the SEND pad anywhere. Am I missing it?
I built Slade's version of this circuit and it worked fine. This layout looks kinda like it but there appear to be several holes in it :-\
Here are my voltages, for Slade's non-G-String layout:
LF353N
4.67
4.67
4.66
0
3.3
3.3
3.2
9.36
Top LF347N
2.64
2.64
2.64
9.35
3.23
3.24
3.82
3.38
3.38
3.37
0
4.65
4.66
4.66
Bottom LF347N
4.65
4.66
4.24
9.36
4.66
4.66
4.67
4.66
4.67
4.67
0
4.33
4.34
3.15
I can't get my probe under the THAT to check its pins, sorry.
Quote from: TheWinterSnow on January 27, 2014, 04:24:11 PM
Quote from: mremic01 on January 27, 2014, 02:19:25 PM
I don't know what you guys are doing that you're drive pedals are causing noise. Even with super gainy stuff like DR Boogey, I've only had oscillation when I didn't ground the input and the gain was turned all the way up. Any noise I've ever gotten has been amplified by those pedals, not caused by them. Nip them in the bud, and there's no noise left to amplify. At the end of the chain has done nothing for me regarding feedback too. The feedback gets amplified by whatever I'm using for a boost and gets strong enough to get past the gate. But with the gate first, it never gets loud enough to start a feedback loop. But yeah, if your rig is noisy, you put it after what's causing the noise.
Quite a bit off base there.
Specifically a side-chained noise gate is not meant to go after the noisiest pedal, the side-chain signal is your guitar, you want it to turn the gate on and off based on if you are playing something on the guitar or not. By placing the gate in the FX loop when you are not playing the guitar at all, the FX loop becomes an open and kills all volume, that way you are not depending on all your amp gain and noise getting passed the gate, because the gate reacts to the raw guitar signal, not all the gain you added to it. You stop playing guitar, or rather, the pickup signal drops below the set threshold, the gate turns off no matter what is on the gate input. The gate reacts to the side-chain signal and the side-chain signal only.
The biggest reason for a noise gate is to kill uncontrollable feedback when playing at high gain and high volume. If you play hard rock and metal, band rehearsals and shows are a nightmare without them as even if your amp is at low volume, your pickups interacting with the FOH in small venues/bars will still cause feedback. If the 4-input style noise gates like the G-String are used correctly, they do eliminate all noise and all uncontrolled feedback (but only when not playing), even those created by pedals.
Umm, I'm not at all sure what was off base about what I said, and what you said seems to support my reasoning, unless your talking about the G-String. I'm talking about the regular Decimator. With the regular Decimator, putting it directly after the guitar does exactly what you said it should: it eliminates all noise and uncontrolled feedback only when not playing. After ANYTHING that amplifies pre-existing noise, you need to turn up the threshold to get it to gate that noise, and then you have to deal with the fact that the appropriate threshold varies if you've got a boost pedal that you're turning on and off. The boost might push your noise above the gate's threshold. This was a problem I had with my TS. It was even worse with the older version of the MXR Smartgate, the thing was useless anywhere other than first in the signal chain. I'm not the only one who uses it this way, I got the tip from UG years ago.
Have you guys even tried running the regular Decimator first? It's easy to assume a pedal is noisy. All my distortions have noise, but with the gate in front of them, they're dead quite when I'm not playing. That makes it pretty clear that its not the pedals that cause the noise. But with the gate first, feedback can't start. Single coil hum doesn't get through. Nothing. Dead quiet. Does exactly what I want, despite that manual says to put in the loop or after the board.
See
inline:
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on January 27, 2014, 07:19:48 PM
@Harold
So many questions in the layout that you posted above....
- Where does C2 connect to? One side goes to R1... the other goes off into never land ???
The orange trace extends to the right: so C2 goes to Vr
- Where is the Trimmer that goes below R36? Should be 1M correct?
The trimmer is not depicted, it's in the lower left corner of the layout: Vin/wiper/GND
- This looks like the G-string version but, I don't see the SEND pad anywhere. Am I missing it?
Yep: like I said, "Missing from the layout: C3 and R32", so I added them before etching the board, see below.
I built Slade's version of this circuit and it worked fine. This layout looks kinda like it but there appear to be several holes in it :-\
I've added pads for C3 and R32 on the layout I etched: (gray area)
(http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_corrections.png)
Download the pdf here: http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_corrections.pdf
Quote from: mremic01 on January 27, 2014, 08:07:19 PM
Here are my voltages, for Slade's non-G-String layout:
Cool, thanks!!! I must first fix my strange Vr, but this might come in handy!
Quote from: mremic01 on January 27, 2014, 08:07:19 PM
I can't get my probe under the THAT to check its pins, sorry.
No problem, if my issue isn't fixed after fixing Vr I'll try to get a hold of my nonG-string myself to check it.
Fixed! ;D There was a nasty solder bridge in the Vref section ... ::)
That is, I can hear my test-beep on the output. My jacks are arriving tomorrow, then I can finish my build and test with actual gear. Turning the threshold up mutes the signal, so I guess it works ;)
I'll report back when I've drilled the enclosure and installed the (isolated) jacks!
Hello guys,
I'm out for a while....Just saw and read the whole thread... If I could get THAT IC chip, definitely I would build this G-string version.
BTW I'm using downward expander gate(without send/return) with CA3080 chip and very much effective noisegate in the FRONT of the chain not at the back chain just like mremic01 with my analog setup.
I know for sure it cut/affect my delay and reverb somehow....Feature like send/return is ideal and a must for a noisegate no doubt about it. That is why i'm using two built-in noisegate in my multiFX (front/back) before MODULATION setup in every patch.
@ Harold, mate I saved your correction PDF file just in case... tweet/subscribe on this thread also 8)
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on January 28, 2014, 05:49:31 PM@ Harold, mate I saved your correction PDF file just in case...
I'll try to paint the updated components into the gray area some day. Some components got moved around to make room ...
Quote from: Harold on January 28, 2014, 06:07:45 PM
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on January 28, 2014, 05:49:31 PM@ Harold, mate I saved your correction PDF file just in case...
I'll try to paint the updated components into the gray area some day. Some components got moved around to make room ...
Thanks buddy.
It's done! ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-txgp1alRIMc/UumIa74qjMI/AAAAAAAAGyE/cWDZ-9L3x2g/s800/IMG_20140130_000120.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Gw15ubFeF0A/UumPfMhlXyI/AAAAAAAAGyU/Ri3-UXZhO8M/s800/IMG_20140130_003138.jpg)
I've dialed in a unity volume with the trimpot using my DMM and a test sine wave at 65mV~ and it works brilliantly! 8)
... if only iSP sold it at this form factor instad of the 1.5 pound Boss rip-off enclosure with 3 jacks on one side?!?
CHEERS bottoms up 8)
Harold, if you find some time please share us your update version and no hurry buddy :)
Kiiong Hee Huat Tsai
Harold buddy where did you bought your THAT2181C, I search smallbear they got THAT2181LB. Can this be a replacement or not?
@mremic01, I read your post some version of C has issue also, where did you got yours so to be safe. Are there's somehow fake?
BTW what are the replacement for LF347N and LF353N so I could buy locally.
Thanks to both of you :)
I live in the Netherlands, so I shop at newtone-online.nl. In the deleted thread it was mentioned quite often that the C version is a must...
I see, I found one in eBay c version but still will source somewhere else.
Can someone help point me where it can be bought in London area? or UK
You see I'm using downward expander noisegate but the thing is there is no send/return feature on it, that's why I'm eying to build this one and for comparison also with my Boss NS2 so I could sell it later if this one is a keeper.
Cheers,
Roger
Just send an email to Gert-Jan of newtone-online.nl if he'd like to sell you a few...
Thanks Harold :)
Have you tried using it live loud setting? or with single coil pickup?
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 03, 2014, 06:22:09 PM
Thanks Harold :)
Have you tried using it live loud setting? or with single coil pickup?
I used it live once, it's on YouTube if you search for Tank86 and Doornroosje.
I don't play single coil guitars, but I guess my enormous amount of gain makes the same amount of noise ;)
Thanks buddy, if you find some free time please share it us (final schematic/BOM/parts placement) :icon_smile:
Cheers,
Roger
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 04, 2014, 06:22:24 PM
Thanks buddy, if you find some free time please share it us (final schematic/BOM/parts placement) :icon_smile:
Cheers,
Roger
The schematic I posted is correct; the component placement is on my todo list. I became a father last Thursday, so my priorities have shifted a bit ... ;D
Quote from: Harold on February 04, 2014, 06:26:48 PM
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 04, 2014, 06:22:24 PM
Thanks buddy, if you find some free time please share it us (final schematic/BOM/parts placement) :icon_smile:
Cheers,
Roger
The schematic I posted is correct; the component placement is on my todo list. I became a father last Thursday, so my priorities have shifted a bit ... ;D
Conrats, man!
Congratulations Harold.
Thanx! :icon_biggrin:
I've managed to paint you guys the 4 components I had to rearrange:
(http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_corrections2.png)
Hope this will help you to build it correctly!
Thanks Harold,
I'm searching for the final BOM.....
I also read your post on this
I found this differences between the layout and the schematic:
Component Schematic Layout
D3 1N4148 2x1N4148
D4 1N4148 2x1N4148
R9 27K 51K
R10 100K 150K
R12 10M 20M
R13 20K 12K
R14 20K 12K
R30 10K 20K
R32 68K 22K
R37 620R 560R
My friend "Bolachan" username member here got THAT2181C and he's going to build this one, afterward we can compare mine(downward expander noisegate and Boss NS2) with this.
Finally after a long wait since 2007 quest for superb NOISEGATE may come to end :icon_rolleyes:
BTW any replacement for TR/and DUAL suggestion?
Cheers
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 11, 2014, 06:16:44 PM
Thanks Harold,
I'm searching for the final BOM.....
I have this in my notes:
100k 5
100R 1
10k 3
12k 2
150k 1
1k 3
1M 5
200k 1
20k 8
20m 2
22k 1
47k 1
51k 1
560R 1
5k1 2
750R 1
100nF 3
100pF 2
100uF 1
10uF 4
1uF 1
22pF 1
22uF 2
330nF 2
470nF 2
400x 1 (didn't use it on my build because of the voltage drop)
1N4148 13
1N5819 1
MPS2222A 1
2N5551 1
LF347 2
LF353 2
THAT2181C 1
10kB 1
1M trim 1
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 11, 2014, 06:16:44 PM
I also read your post on this
I found this differences between the layout and the schematic:
Component Schematic Layout
D3 1N4148 2x1N4148
D4 1N4148 2x1N4148
R9 27K 51K
R10 100K 150K
R12 10M 20M
R13 20K 12K
R14 20K 12K
R30 10K 20K
R32 68K 22K
R37 620R 560R
That are the differences between the Decimator and the Decimator G-String, I guess ... I've built both, and the G-String is more sensitive, probably because it only has to track your guitar signal, not your boosted/distorted/etc signal.
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 11, 2014, 06:16:44 PM
BTW any replacement for TR/and DUAL suggestion?
I've used the LF353 and LF347, it's probably work correctly with all JFET Op amps.
Ah its clear now :)
Anyone, any suggestion for MPS2222A and 2N5551 replacement?
Harold thanks buddy :icon_wink:
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 12, 2014, 05:22:33 PM
Ah its clear now :)
Anyone, any suggestion for MPS2222A and 2N5551 replacement?
Harold thanks buddy :icon_wink:
Hey Dim, you can still get the IC's and the MPS2222A , 2N5551 from Farnell UK.
Quote from: fendman on February 12, 2014, 08:22:10 PM
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 12, 2014, 05:22:33 PM
Ah its clear now :)
Anyone, any suggestion for MPS2222A and 2N5551 replacement?
Harold thanks buddy :icon_wink:
Hey Dim, you can still get the IC's and the MPS2222A , 2N5551 from Farnell UK.
Thanks goodness, my wife shes the one in London. I search into bitsbox only the 4PDT coz I need it now I'll check the FARNELL for IC and TR so she could send it at the same time. Is it a store or place? Anyway I'm gonna try google it. Thanks Mike good news :icon_wink:
Just a heads up....
If anyone needs the THAT2181C SIP IC for this.... PM me and Ill see what I can do for you! ;)
I have built this before and it is THE best noise gate I have ever used. :o I am tempted to build the G-string model but, I really dont use my effects loop much so... Is it worth it?
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 13, 2014, 10:25:31 AMI have built this before and it is THE best noise gate I have ever used. :o I am tempted to build the G-string model but, I really dont use my effects loop much so... Is it worth it?
Yes.
As soon as you have anything that boosts or adds dirt to your signal, the loop is a huge improvement!
The thread title should now be change to "Decimator Gstring VERIFIED" :icon_smile:
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/ISPPCB.jpg)
Hello Harold, anyone,
1. Is it ok to use 1n914 diode as replacement for 4148 for this job? I got lot of them but no 4148...
2. I counted 6 jumper wire, Am I correct?
3. Trimmer 1M wiper should be attached to r36 (1k) resistor? How do I calibrate this trimmer?
4. Anymore pointer.... :icon_rolleyes:
Mine just received and I'll have it by end of the month...I also included one pc THAT2181 B version coz their minimum is 20 pounds....
Silly me I found its ok to use 1n914
Cheers,
Roger
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 19, 2014, 07:35:29 PM
1. Is it ok to use 1n914 diode as replacement for 4148 for this job? I got lot of them but no 4148...
2. I counted 6 jumper wire, Am I correct?
3. Trimmer 1M wiper should be attached to r36 (1k) resistor? How do I calibrate this trimmer?
1) YES
2) No idea. Probably need Harold to answer that one.
3) Set the trimmer so the "effect" level out is the same as the "bypass" volume.
Dont know if the 2181B will be the same as the 2181C. I was under the impression that the "C" version was critical to this build. Please let us know.
Just about got mine built...a few parts still to get. 6 jumpers is what I have, the trimpot on mine will have to be a vert standing as I can't get the Bourns 3362 to fit.
The 20M res I put two 10M in series.
Mike
(http://i.imgur.com/WAtuAj0.jpg)
Not to be a pest or anything... ::)
Could someone (Harold??) please repost a good etch transfer for the G-string?
Also, could someone post the complete component layout with it as well? ;D :icon_twisted:
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 20, 2014, 07:13:59 AM
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 19, 2014, 07:35:29 PM
1. Is it ok to use 1n914 diode as replacement for 4148 for this job? I got lot of them but no 4148...
2. I counted 6 jumper wire, Am I correct?
3. Trimmer 1M wiper should be attached to r36 (1k) resistor? How do I calibrate this trimmer?
1) YES
2) No idea. Probably need Harold to answer that one.
3) Set the trimmer so the "effect" level out is the same as the "bypass" volume.
Dont know if the 2181B will be the same as the 2181C. I was under the impression that the "C" version was critical to this build. Please let us know.
Thanks Lacky, I will...It so happened that Farnell minimum was 20pounds just also by curiosity I included 1pc " B" version and to reach that minimum.
@ fendman, what resistor (ohm) that you used as your jumper? Kind of new to me :) mman you're quicky fast....
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 20, 2014, 07:08:48 PM
Thanks Lacky, I will...It so happened that Farnell minimum was 20pounds just also by curiosity I included 1pc " B" version and to reach that minimum.
@ fendman, what resistor (ohm) that you used as your jumper? Kind of new to me :) mman you're quicky fast....
The resistors with the single black band used a jumpers are "zero ohm" resistors used in "pick and place" machines.
@ fendman, what resistor (ohm) that you used as your jumper? Kind of new to me mman you're quicky fast....
Hey Roger, I use these zero ohm resistors all the time on builds...they look kinda neater. Anyway I get them from Farnell UK Part No 9339027... if you are USA side
probably you can get them at Newark :icon_smile:
Mike
Ya, you're right Mike. my Bourns 3362 can't fit in :icon_eek: bummer
Anyhow, is it a set and forget thing? I may use 1M pot to calibrate then use fixed resistor later :icon_rolleyes:
BTW Local store has 1N5818 only, can I use it? no available 1N5819 ....Lacky, Harold....Mike... anyone...
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 21, 2014, 07:26:38 AM
Ya, you're right Mike. my Bourns 3362 can't fit in :icon_eek: bummer
Anyhow, is it a set and forget thing? I may use 1M pot to calibrate then use fixed resistor later :icon_rolleyes:
BTW Local store has 1N5818 only, can I use it? no available 1N5819 ....Lacky, Harold....Mike... anyone...
Hey Roger, As far as I know the 1meg trimmer is just to set the unity gain so I suppose you can calibrate and use a fixed resistor.
The 1N5819.. well the circuit says 1N4001...I have both and I actually used the 1N4001 :icon_confused: you will be OK with the 1N5818 the only difference
between that and the 1N5819 is the max repetitive reverse voltage which is 30v for the 1N5818 and 40volts for the 1N5819.
Mike
Hey Mike,
As per Harold notes:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
I found this differences between the layout and the schematic:
Component Schematic Layout
D3 1N4148 2x1N4148
D4 1N4148 2x1N4148
R9 27K 51K
R10 100K 150K
R12 10M 20M
R13 20K 12K
R14 20K 12K
R30 10K 20K
R32 68K 22K
R37 620R 560R
-----------------------------------------------
R32 is 100K on the schematic he gave. But on his note is 22K
R33 what value? I used 1M as schem
C3 what value? I used 10uf
I'll try that 1N5818... maybe the voltage drop, need not to be significant compare to 4001?
I'm almost halfway populating my board and I found that R32....
I more or less stuck to the schematic, Harold said in an earlier post the schem was correct, so will see what happens.
i should get the rest of the parts in the morning. and sometime this weekend should have it running.
I saw Harold had two sets of IN/OUT connections and two jacks on the top off the enclosure which I thought might be Send/Return.
If he reads this would like him to maybe explain what he did...would be useful..unless you know Roger.
Mike
Quote from: fendman on February 21, 2014, 05:15:29 PM
I more or less stuck to the schematic, Harold said in an earlier post the schem was correct, so will see what happens.
Yep: that's the way to go! ;D
Quote from: fendman on February 21, 2014, 05:15:29 PM
I saw Harold had two sets of IN/OUT connections and two jacks on the top off the enclosure which I thought might be Send/Return.
If he reads this would like him to maybe explain what he did...would be useful..
I've added a passive loop to be able to use it as a patch box on a pedal board. It's nothing more than 2 jacks and a piece of wire, so ignore that if you don't need it.
Quote from: fendman on February 21, 2014, 05:15:29 PM
I more or less stuck to the schematic, Harold said in an earlier post the schem was correct, so will see what happens.
i should get the rest of the parts in the morning. and sometime this weekend should have it running.
I saw Harold had two sets of IN/OUT connections and two jacks on the top off the enclosure which I thought might be Send/Return.
If he reads this would like him to maybe explain what he did...would be useful..unless you know Roger.
Mike
That two sets of IN/OUT maybe just a parallel hummmm maybe for the two guitar. Harold is busy with his first born.
He didn't used truebypass (3DPT) switch I think.
Thanks Harold for the quick reply, that is appreciated, one less thing to worry about :icon_razz: I just saw Roger post as I was sending this.
Ah you're here how's life to be a father....
I see one set is passive and the other one is active
BTW is it required to use 1N5819 for the circuit?
so
R32 is 100k
R33 is 1M
C3 is 10uf
NOTE: R12 on schematic is just 10M It should be 20M as per Harold's notes
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/PCBISP.jpg)
Anyone...my (green) u33K box cap is same as 330n value ?? Am I correct?
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on February 21, 2014, 09:23:04 PM
NOTE: R12 on schematic is just 10M It should be 20M as per Harold's notes
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/PCBISP.jpg)
Anyone...my (green) u33K box cap is same as 330n value ?? Am I correct?
Looks ok to me, .33uf is 330n the K is normally tolerance. I did put a 20M in R12. Got a few new parts this morning so hope to get it done later today :icon_wink:
Mike
I never posted this pic, did I? ???
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Kxn--rrTgO0/UuUj1Y7tkBI/AAAAAAAAGxc/JCbBy5l-Z0I/s800/IMG_20140126_160303.jpg)
I can't etch myself, so I ordered and populated 2 boards, just in case. I used the multi turn trimpots, but frankly: I hate those. I never know when to turn which way, and you almost can't tell when you're turning it beyond the range. Ah, well ... since it's "set and forget". Did I mention I set it using a 65mV~ input sine and measuring the output with my DMM?
Anyway, sorry for not posting that often, my newborn gets most of my attention (and time ;)).
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 20, 2014, 09:56:00 AM
Not to be a pest or anything... ::)
Could someone (Harold??) please repost a good etch transfer for the G-string?
Also, could someone post the complete component layout with it as well? ;D :icon_twisted:
Anyone?? Please! ;D
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 22, 2014, 09:17:12 AM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 20, 2014, 09:56:00 AM
Not to be a pest or anything... ::)
Could someone (Harold??) please repost a good etch transfer for the G-string?
Also, could someone post the complete component layout with it as well? ;D :icon_twisted:
Anyone?? Please! ;D
Look on the first page of this thread. :icon_wink:
And here also: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99848.msg956305#msg956305
Phew Mike, I managed to solder the bourns 3386 trimmer underneath, just tack first the wiper to the 1k resistor and sneak in your solder (thin) tip after that for the rest. (just double check the continuity) afterward or redo the procedure.
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/IMG_1207.jpg)
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/IMG_1209.jpg)
I just received my THAT2181C and B version IC and waiting for online order of 1n5819 plus 1590 case to finish the job....
Hey , nice job Roger. I took the easier route and put a Vert trimmer in. I got mine working a couple of days ago...Just to mention one point, I was almost caught out
by useing my test rig which has no send/return sockets. It didn't work obviously, so I had to put a jumper in the circuit send/return.
It probably won't catch you out...but somebody with not much experience might not know.
I haven't had time to box it yet, but its going to be a useful pedal it works a lot better than the other noise gate we were doing :icon_smile:
Hope yours works great...let me know.
Mike
Quote from: fendman on March 02, 2014, 01:55:43 PM
Hey , nice job Roger. I took the easier route and put a Vert trimmer in. I got mine working a couple of days ago...Just to mention one point, I was almost caught out
by useing my test rig which has no send/return sockets. It didn't work obviously, so I had to put a jumper in the circuit send/return.
It probably won't catch you out...but somebody with not much experience might not know.
I haven't had time to box it yet, but its going to be a useful pedal it works a lot better than the other noise gate we were doing :icon_smile:
Hope yours works great...let me know.
Mike
Cool, I just received my package and drilled the case, will let you know buddy :)
Hi Harold,
Just to clear out on your posted layout corrected LABEL version
(http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_corrections2.png)
IN is guitar IN
SEND is guitar OUT?
RETURN is DEC IN
OUT is DEC OUT?
or
IN is guitar IN
SEND is DEC OUT?
RETURN is DEC IN
OUT is guitar OUT?
Furthermore, the posted (by lars-musik) outboard wiring layout seems to use only mono jack socket for both SEND/RETURN. Is this correct?
I don't have stereo socket as of now, but can I follow this outboard wiring layout then use mono for both SEND/RETRUN and just put one dummy loop cable? when nothing is connected on send/return.
Here:
(http://imageshack.us/a/img402/9002/offboardwiring.jpg)
Cheers,
Roger
Yes, you are right. Strange enough, both scenarios are possible.
Attached you'll find the enclosure etching mask for my build. The jacks are labelled and the setup can be either ,,A", which comprises an effect chain or ,,B" if the pedal is put into the amp's effect loop. Depending on what you are wiring Dec Out or Guitar Out might be the Output.
For an even better illustrated version try this document: http://c3.zzounds.com/media/DecimatorGStringPedal5-13-092-f97fb869826356c1371242dac86f4cc8.pdf
However, if you want to run the Decimator in Un-G-Stringed-Mode , you'll have to run a patch cable from ,,Guitar out" to ,,Dec In" and connect ,,Dec Out" to your amp. This way you'll have a "standard" noise gate to be put at the end of your effect chain. A more elegant way to avoid that patch cable would be to use a switched jack for Dec In or simply a switch to make that connection if needed..
I hope that helps.
Best, Lars
(http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/gg578/lars-musik/bac7dcf5-08fd-4098-9adb-348b4ccea8d8.jpg)
Thanks goodness Lars you're still with us following this thread :)
I just figured out by reading your link Gstring PDF manual and by reviewing Joao galego schematic diagram routing I concluded this following Harold's corrected labels
IN = guitar in
SEND = DEC(imator) OUT
RETURN = DEC(imator) IN
OUT = guitar out
In my mind, this follows also those multifx unit as follows:
unit IN, unit SEND, unit RETURN, unit OUT
Let us do furthermore brainstorming on this and hear what Harold, fendman(Mike) so with you Lars and with other too. Its kind of late
Hope to hear from all of you....
Cheers,
Roger
The wiring diagram with the GUIT IN and GUIT OUT connected doesn't use a buffered output/send. I strongly advise against using that, but using my PCB with buffered GUIT OUT (aka SEND) instead.
Hi Harold,
could you explain why the buffers are important in that particular case? I tried to work through all the postings in this tread and I am just a little astonished that there is obviuosly quite a lot to improve (different values, missing pads etc) since Galego published his layout. I have build two of these pedals for my setup following this" un-improved old version" and both work just fine.
Best, Lars
Quote from: lars-musik on March 07, 2014, 10:50:02 AM
Hi Harold,
could you explain why the buffers are important in that particular case? I tried to work through all the postings in this tread and I am just a little astonished that there is obviuosly quite a lot to improve (different values, missing pads etc) since Galego published his layout. I have build two of these pedals for my setup following this" un-improved old version" and both work just fine.
Best, Lars
Passive splitting of your signal wil cost you half of your signal. If you're behind a buffer that's no problem, then the buffer will supply more signal, but passive ... and you have a buffered signal available, so why not use it?
See also the thousands of discussions about the passive "Tuner out" on volume pedals.
I am sticking with Harold's diagram its the most simple...in,out, send return. This DEc in Dec out is just confusing me :icon_confused:
Mike
Yes Lars, you splitted your signal as per your wiring for GUIT IN and GUIT OUT and weaken the signal into (passive). The U7.1 buffer signal out (active) is better see diagram for active (strong) splitting of signal for both send and U7.2 signal input.
I already bought 1/4" mono 2 conductor jack socket with TIP is SHUNT for (DEC out send/DEC in return) and will connect both SHUNT terminal as per diagram so that when nothing is connected to send/return it stay closed.
@ Mike, my logical thinking if I'm right.... the diagram is an upgrade from regular Decimator diagram into Gstring diagram only the send/return is new, so I'll still stick with (IN) as guitar IN and (OUT) as guitar OUT... and the (SEND) as DEC OUT and (RETURN) as DEC IN using Harold's PCB. See if I can update you all afterward.
Appreciate more discussion from you guys.
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/f748a367-d573-4c62-a8af-8e5e3b9a0d7e.jpg)
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/IMG_1250.jpg)
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/GstringDecimator.jpg)
Performance is the same with my CA3080 downward expander on the front of the chain only this one has send/return. I test it both with my Boss NS2 on send/return setting, NS2 has better decay in sustain note due to NS2 has DECAY control. Maybe its too early for me to comment and I need to adjust the trimmer more for much better result.
Version "B" works exactly the same with version "C"
I used one TLE2072 and one LF353 for dual amp, two LF347 for quad amp.
Cheers,
Roger
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on March 09, 2014, 06:16:39 AMMaybe its too early for me to comment and I need to adjust the trimmer more for much better result.
The trimmer only sets unity volume, nothing else.
Quote from: Harold on March 09, 2014, 05:36:29 PM
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on March 09, 2014, 06:16:39 AMMaybe its too early for me to comment and I need to adjust the trimmer more for much better result.
The trimmer only sets unity volume, nothing else.
Yes its easy for me to adjust by comparing the volume level between truebypass(OFF) and switch(ON) volume level but there were some area in the trimmer with either abrupt or stuttering sustain note! (no decay or stammering decay). Unlike my Boss NS has THRESHOLD knob with additional DECAY knob control.
Is someone can post final voltages of amp's pins. I'm fighting with the distrortion on THAT's 8th leg in G-string version.
I'll be grateful for any sugestions.
Thanks.
Cheers
I know this thread is old, but it's basically got the only/best information on the Decimator G-String clone that I can find. Thanks to everyone who has worked on this circuit! I am planning to build one soon.
My question lies with the last discussion of the jacks. The way I have reviewed the layout, it appears that they would be as follows:
IN = Guitar In (guitar plugs in here)
SEND = Guitar Out (goes to other fuzz/OD pedals, then Amp)
RETURN = Decimator In (signal directly from the FX Loop on the Amp, i.e. FX Loop Send)
OUT = Decimator Out (goes to remaining effects in the Amp's FX Loop, if any, then to the FX Loop Return)
Is that right? If so, that also means that to minimally test the pedal (rock-it-before-you-box-it) you'd have to jumper the SEND and RETURN pads, leaving IN and OUT as your effect pedal's In and Out, right? Also, how would you do offboard wiring with a 3PDT daughter board with the normal In, fxIN, fxOUT, Out pads?
I've assembled this noise gate, works very well.
I play with my peavey 5150 combo and guitar with emg pickups and its noiseless but I don't miss sustain. Thanks to everyone who helped made this great pedal. ;D ;D ;D
Thanks a lot
Wil from Catalonia
Quote from: Justus on August 21, 2014, 11:27:42 PM
I know this thread is old, but it's basically got the only/best information on the Decimator G-String clone that I can find. Thanks to everyone who has worked on this circuit! I am planning to build one soon.
My question lies with the last discussion of the jacks. The way I have reviewed the layout, it appears that they would be as follows:
IN = Guitar In (guitar plugs in here)
SEND = Guitar Out (goes to other fuzz/OD pedals, then Amp)
RETURN = Decimator In (signal directly from the FX Loop on the Amp, i.e. FX Loop Send)
OUT = Decimator Out (goes to remaining effects in the Amp's FX Loop, if any, then to the FX Loop Return)
Is that right? If so, that also means that to minimally test the pedal (rock-it-before-you-box-it) you'd have to jumper the SEND and RETURN pads, leaving IN and OUT as your effect pedal's In and Out, right? Also, how would you do offboard wiring with a 3PDT daughter board with the normal In, fxIN, fxOUT, Out pads?
Is this final way of routing? I've read everything few times, send should be guitar out if using it with amps loop, right? If not, jumper send and return and dec out is guitar out..
Any idea how to add decay knob? ???
hello guys I have a problem ... pretty much the sound is saturated, almost like a fuzz, if you increase the threshold at the beginning increases the volume, then lowers abruptly. then it does not work at all well, I looked to see if there were courts or bridges, and no, I do not understand the problem, with the sound probe I saw that the signal comes clean, and up to ic in charge of the loop sound is spotless, the problem arises after the resistor 5,1k coming out of 100nF connected to pin 1 of lf347. immediately after the diodes, the signal is distorted.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/w7yazp.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/64krdk.jpg)
Hi, is anyone still available to help on this topic?
I built the non G string version from here: http://www.sabrotone.com/?attachment_id=1380 which works just fine so I then built the G string add-on found here: http://diy-layout.com/75. Signal passes cleanly to guitar out, but when linking that to DEC Return there is no signal from DEC Send, so it appears the gate is staying open no matter where I set the threshold.
Put it back to non G string and it still works ok. I have done a thorough check on the add-on board and there are definitely no errors, I also put the Op Amp into the main board to check it and it works fine.
Any help would be appreciated.
Are you connecting it in the right place? On the add on where it says "U7.1" it should be U5.1, which is the bottom of what was C3. "R2" on the add on connects to what was the top of C3. If you connect it like that and connect send to return it should function like a non G string, does it do that?
Hi Slacker, thanks for responding. Yes, I have the connections going to where C3 was. I then have Guitar Out linked to Dec Return with Dec Send going to amp which gives no output. If I connect Send to Return, (as you suggested) I would only have the Guitar Out to connect to the amp which is just the ungated signal.
I also have the Vr connection going to the spare hole to the left of the bottom connection of R22 which I believe is correct.
I'm not sure what you mean by Guitar Out, I can't see anything called that on either layout. I think you're connecting it up wrong though, on the non gstring you plug your guitar into "Input", the signal splits after the first opamp, it goes though C5 to the control part of the noise gate, this is signal that turns the gate on and off. It also goes though C3 to the audio part of the gate, and then the noise gated signal comes out of "Output".
In the gstring, you plug your guitar into "Input", the signal still goes though C5 to control the gate but instead of going through C3, it goes to "send" instead, to an effect pedal say, then from the pedal into "return", where it then goes into the audio part of the gate, and the noise gated signal comes out of "Output".
This means your straight guitar signal is controlling the gate, but the audio can be affected by what ever you put in the send/return loop. If you connect send straight to return the send/return loop is just replacing C3 and it should work exactly the same as a non gstring.
Guitar out I was relating to is marked as Output on the main board.
I tried connecting Send to the Return and it does function just like the non G String, I then connected a loud noisy distortion pedal and it works just like it should, stop playing guitar and blissful silence.
This is what threw me: http://www.isptechnologies.com/manuals/Decimator%20G%20String%20Pedal%205-13-092.pdf It shows guitar to Input, Output to effects pedals back to DEC IN, then from DEC OUT to the amp. This manual doesn't label the jack connections the same way they are on the circuit boards, you have to reverse the DEC OUT (SEND) and the Guitar Output connections and it works.
Thanks soooooo much for getting me on the right track, problem solved, and reading this it may help some others.
Okay so I used Harold's revised PCB http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99848.msg956305#msg956305 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99848.msg956305#msg956305)
Added the components listed here. http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99848.msg962474#msg962474 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99848.msg962474#msg962474)
Otherwise, I used this layout.http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99848.msg956242#msg956242 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=99848.msg956242#msg956242)
Now, I'm still about as clear as mud on which input, output, send, return corresponds to the ISP G-String in, out, dec in, dec out.
Also, I don't have a switch so it's constantly on but I am getting no sound whatsoever. I have poured over this thread(very helpful actually) and I think it's all wired up correctly but still no profit.
I truly believe the issue lies with the correct input/output.
Thanks!
Quote from: DIMstompboxes on March 09, 2014, 06:16:39 AM
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/f748a367-d573-4c62-a8af-8e5e3b9a0d7e.jpg)
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/IMG_1250.jpg)
(http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rogeryu_ph/GstringDecimator.jpg)
Performance is the same with my CA3080 downward expander on the front of the chain only this one has send/return. I test it both with my Boss NS2 on send/return setting, NS2 has better decay in sustain note due to NS2 has DECAY control. Maybe its too early for me to comment and I need to adjust the trimmer more for much better result.
Version "B" works exactly the same with version "C"
I used one TLE2072 and one LF353 for dual amp, two LF347 for quad amp.
Cheers,
Roger
Roger, in your build, what is the pink wire connecting the two lower inputs?
I think I got it working.
I soldered in the transistors instead of socketing them and then suddenly the thing seemed to work. Woot.
Good build as long as you follow Harold's mods!
hello i have problem
how to connect 9dpdt
someone can help me? i use inlay version
(http://img.sait.nl/schematics/isp_g_string_layout_corrections2.png)
now i'm connect
in= guitar in
out= output
send= effect send
return= effect return
it's don't have anything but distrotion from my engl it's to clean
please guide me
regards