DIYstompboxes.com

The US telephone system generated 90VAC 20Hz at the central office to ring users. Ringer-voltage is a major headache in small telco systems. The original is the hand-crank dynamo but fisher-folk used them up. I have seen geared motors which threw sparks. Choked thyratrons. Transistors made small-office ringers practical and quiet but still expensive.

Every house used to have that contraption wound to a low voltage and with a make/break contact to keep it going, even on DC.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Newhouse-Hardware-All-Purpose-Wired-Traditional-Doorbell-Chime-APB1/308470489
https://www.1800doorbell.com/dh922-2-and-one-half-inch-wired-buzzer.htm

This should work on 9V DC but may suck more current than a pedal-supply has. And of course "Smart" (spyware) 'bells' are driving good ringers off the market.

My humble advice as I am a beginner like you : don't wait too long before building a phaser. Two or three simple builds to warm up, and go. An MXR phase 90 clone would be my best suggestion, as a start. Full kit would make it easier.

You have three main paths to build an effect :

- Easiest way is using a real pcb. You just have to carefully populate the thing (check values before soldering), connect some wires as instructed, put it inside a box, and it's all done.

Best website I know for that is musikding.de, with thousands of full kits, very reliable and always good quality parts. Make sure you understand the instructions before buying.

https://www.musikding.de/guitar-effect-kits-amp-kits

You can't make a mistake sourcing parts with full kits, and you don't spend time looking for each and every components.


- The diy way : using a stripboard or veroboard (soldering pads are in line). You need to cut the board according to the project's size specifications, drill a few tiny holes to break continuity at some points, put some jumpers, populate and wire the board and it's all done.

You can find veroboard projects here :
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/

- The fully diy way : using a perfboard (soldering pads are individual eyelets). You need to cut the board to the right size, populate the board and do the wiring, except that in this case the wiring includes the components themselves, using twisted wires and component's legs. This is the most rewarding way in my experience, because it really feels like you are building something from scratch, like an electronic artist.

You can find perfboard projects here :
http://effectslayouts.blogspot.com/

Final advices would be : Iron set around 400°C, and use sockets for ICs and transistors, always. You can take them off the board easily, and you won't risk overheating them if you need to reflow some pads around them. Moreover, you will be able to try various ICs and transistors on your builds.
A multimeter able to read Hz can be useful to calibrate modulation circuits. VC97A is a cheap model and reliable.

So I.m back on the voltage regulator, much more quiet.
Still the plate resistors don't seem to be doing the work, both pins are at source Vcc.
Audio connections passes thru as the volume works.
Gain pot does nothing despite rewiring, one extremity is on pin 3, the other end with center to ground.
Audio passes where I hear the psu whine, but tube does not transmit with 9v on heaters....

They must be selling like hot cakes.

Nah, those are from New Zealand.

Quote from: DrAlx on June 17, 2019, 02:59:09 PM

Quote from: wilbur on June 16, 2019, 09:17:53 AM

Quote from: DrAlx on March 02, 2019, 05:00:51 PM

I noticed an error in the build document above (missing connection on the diagram showing how to bridge strips together).  I have corrected it, and also tweaked the program code to save a few instructions (there were a few places where quantities were written to registers and then read back immediately in the next instruction.  I will pull the old zip file.  Use this one instead ...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvrH61utWEtEinTuwzdgxpn2TVm8

Is there an updated link for this document, this one appears to no longer work?

Cheers.

Doc has been updated with larger cap value on the crystal to avoid noisy start-up.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvrH61utWEtEiz97o2-i-hpundLe?e=5qDOZy

Thanks DrAlx, much appreciated.

The download link doesn't appear to be working. Do you have a new one?