Speeding up now at my end. Perhaps the database was still updating?

A little better today so the new on must be a Prius server; slowest rate of acceleration but it'll get up to speed (if you don't make it break!)

Still the same on my Dial-Up Phone Line connection as it was before.

Thanks for looking duck! The distortion is gone now, I forgot to say that before. The cut on Row J stopped the link on I11 and J11 from connecting the Pot wiper with the ground of the audio jacks - adding this cut made the circuit work with main electricity (but it no longer works with a battery - which is fine; I don't want to power it with a battery)

A bit slower.  But you know, there are SO many things influencing us to be impatient, a little nudge that says "Don't worry. Wait a little bit. It won't kill you." isn't such a bad thing.

Of course, if the interface changed, there'd be HELL to pay!   

Dimension P dual PT2399 Chorus
Lasered top as shown in the above video.
Three switches:
1) Dry
2) 1/2 Voices
3) R2 270 or 100
Reading the DIY thread on the Dimension P suggestions are made to get "some" TZF by making R2 and R5 equal.
The PT2399 chip presumably does not have a slow enough speed, only 30ms, for Flanging.
Adding R2 equal to R5 does give another effect, is it Flanging ? Maybe not, maybe Psydo.
I was able to do an A /B comparison with my old Arion DCF-1 Chorus / Flanger
It has a S M L switch and F-Rate control.
Setting the Arion to M etc... and this PT2399 build to 100 with the depth turned down and Dry off, the two do sound "similar"
All in all a great Stomp Box with lots of nice sounds.

Ok to see what would happen I added a battery clip. With only the battery as power supply I don't get the weird pulsing and instead just get silence when the pedal is turned on

Thanks Clint Eastwood !

Yes right now I only have 1 1v DC supply that is center pin negative but I will round up another and give it a try.

I have some TC1044SCPA's that I tried without jumpering pin 1 & 8 but will try that too.

Will report back results.

100k on the pot wiring looks about right. bad luck on the cap values, that's one of the things a casual observer can't help with, photos wise.

I think there is something not as you think, he said understatingly. the footswitch board can only work if it wires the switch as you have in the circuit diagram. you would need to confirm that, otherwise .... and there is some sort of grounding confusion going on. you should be able to get the oscillatings working without an ldr or guitar anywhere in sight, and you should be able to get undistored signal through the ldr [when they are steady lit properly] without any power on the oscillating parts.

and that cut you said you needed - if I was looking at your vero layout correctly, there should have been no need for any cut, cause there was no parts supposed to be connecting - not where I was looking anyway. so, we are back to having all the documentation be correct and sane, and then having the built match the proposed.

but the footswitch board. me, I'd lash a switch in to the wires, to see if it's wires wrong or daughterboard non compliant.



ahhh. your added post didn't display. now it does. I will need some time to look at it.

Some photos:

The whole circuit


Close up of vero



Back of vero


back of 3PDT


Current Schematic