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91
Building your own stompbox / Re: Echoflanger "half working"
« Last post by DS-1 on March 29, 2023, 12:54:07 PM »
Hi guys!

Unfortunately I was too busy with work and with rehearsals that I had no time to check the things we talked about, but I've discovered another thing about this Echoflanger: when using the chorus and slap back modes, If I have the tune knob set to 0 and the blend switch to OFF, I have a delay in sound. The more I move the tune knob, the more the delay disappear.

In the newer Polychorus I have (around 2000), this doesn't happen. Is this normal for the Echoflanger, or there's something not working properly?
92
Building your own stompbox / Re: Rebote Delay 2.5: FULL MODS THREAD
« Last post by solarplexus on March 29, 2023, 12:15:29 PM »
gotya, just be prepared for a little warp sound when switching timings.

have fun .  8)

That's part of the fun  8)
93
Building your own stompbox / Re: Rebote Delay 2.5: FULL MODS THREAD
« Last post by deadastronaut on March 29, 2023, 12:06:54 PM »
gotya, just be prepared for a little warp sound when switching timings.

have fun .  8)
94
Building your own stompbox / Re: Rebote Delay 2.5: FULL MODS THREAD
« Last post by solarplexus on March 29, 2023, 12:01:13 PM »
yes that should work....

will likely have a weird warp effect when switching times....which might add to it.  8)

personally i would choose to do this on a longer (2x pt2399) delay rather than the rebote single pt2399 though to be worth it. .....just my 2p.

Thanks for the reply.  I want to be able to switch from slap back delay to something around 400ms.  It's just for live use.  Easier to switch than to bend down while in a gig. 

I am also going to try to do that on the Echo Base which I have just finished (had the PCB unfinished since 2016).  Same thing, from slap back to about 400ms. 

Thanks again :)
95
Building your own stompbox / Re: Rebote Delay 2.5: FULL MODS THREAD
« Last post by deadastronaut on March 29, 2023, 11:07:44 AM »
yes that should work....

will likely have a weird warp effect when switching times....which might add to it.  8)

personally i would choose to do this on a longer (2x pt2399) delay rather than the rebote single pt2399 though to be worth it. .....just my 2p. 
96
Building your own stompbox / Re: Flashing LED on the Boss TR-2 with ticking noise
« Last post by antonis on March 29, 2023, 10:33:35 AM »
Maybe use a common Cathode bi-colour LED..?? :icon_wink:

edit: Don't mind.. Forget it..

97
Building your own stompbox / Flashing LED on the Boss TR-2 with ticking noise
« Last post by Elijah-Baley on March 29, 2023, 09:55:27 AM »
Hello, I have a Boss TR-2 of a friend of mine to mod. I replaced some caps, I added a gain pot to boost it a bit, and I included a toggle switch for the ultra Speed mode. Everything was ok.



I wanted to add a bi-color blinking LED: Green in bypass, Red when it's on. And I did!
Like a mod I seen, I got the voltage on the positive common on the bi-color LED from R27/ pin 7 if IC3B. The red side ground stay like the original, in P3. The only problem was that with the LED I lose some sound. A 390R resistor made the LED just slightly less bright but I solved this issue. It flashes smooth and well.

I found a right spot even for the green side ground of the bi-color LED that didn't stuck the switching system. (Then I cut the wire to try to solve my problem). Everything worked ok until the pedal is closed.

The problem is that the flashing LED introduce a ticking noise that I can heard just if I close the pedal with the back plate. It's not a contact of some parts under it, or some other parts pressed against something else: it's right the back plate, once it closed the pedal and it's in contact with the ground the ticking starts. I tried to isolated it with some tape around it, and around the screws area inside and outside, it could work if I did it good, but it's not easy nor fine.

I found this problem pretty weird.

How I can make this flashing bi-color LED work?
98
Building your own stompbox / Re: Biasing RDV Tonebender.
« Last post by antonis on March 29, 2023, 08:27:16 AM »
Although it's drawn for Fuzz Face, it might help you due to almost identical configuration.. :icon_wink:
(just re-number your particular BJTs..)



In your case, for Q1 Collector biased lower than 1.3V (VA) you need a Q1 Collector current (blue arrow) larger than 164μA..
That current consists of Q1 C-E current (light blue arrow) and Q2 Base current (red arrow)..
Q1 C-E current (light blue) is considered Q2 Emitter feedback current (black arrow) +  Q1 ICEO (C-E leakage current)

You can make all necessary substitutions to find out if there is any room in calculations for ICEO.. :icon_wink:
99
Building your own stompbox / Re: One-Eyed LX1-X
« Last post by Govmnt_Lacky on March 29, 2023, 07:00:01 AM »
I'll find and replace the photo transistor (which, by the way, sounds pretty cool and I should definitely look up how they work) and the tactile switch, and get back to you in a couple of days.

Phototransistor part number is right on the board. LPT80A
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