I'm working on my first layout that includes a board mounted footswitch.

I've been using board mounted jacks (when possible) to make things a bit more "tidy".
I....like so many of you...despise off board wiring!

I usually purchase the Neutrik style PC mount jacks from Tayda, but they are only available in a switched stereo configuration.
I've been modifying them to mono jacks by pulling out the ring and the ring switch assemblies.

Today...I proceeded to modify a couple of jacks when it came to me that something more can be done to make certain layouts easier to route.

When jacks are mounted on opposite sides of an enclosure, the tip and sleeve pins end up opposite of each other.
The switch side of one jack ends up toward the back of the enclosure, and the tip and sleeve side of the other jack ends up facing the back of the enclosure.

I found that this can be altered. You can remove the tip, sleeve assembly, and the tip switch, sleeve switch assembly and switch them.

To remove the assemblies: Pull on the tip, ring, or sleeve assembly (red arrow) with needle nose pliers while moving it side to side.

Remove tip switch, ring switch, sleeve switch: with needle nose pliers, push up slightly on solder pin (blue arrow) until the top of assembly (green arrow) has moved enough to get your needle nose pliers on it. Now pull the switch assembly (green arrow) out with needle nose while moving it from side to side.

Now reinstall the switch and tip, sleeve assemblies on opposite sides. You now have left and right jacks that may help make a board layout "work" a bit better.

I would imagine that the modifications will work with Neutrik jacks as well.

That's kinda obvious when you say it out loud!      What a handy tip - thanks Larry.

Here's an example of a board layout using modified PCB mounted TRS jacks.

The jack tip connection (T) going to the middle of the switch would have had to connect to the pad labeled TN above it.

I would have had to move the jack closer to the footswitch and reroute the board input around the top of the input jack.

Using a modified jack for the input made for a much cleaner layout.

Out of general curiosity and interest due to the time savings. I assume these measurements have to be super dead on so that no stress is added to the board when attaching this way?

If you are referring to the board layout versus the holes drilled in the enclosure....yes.

I do my board layouts in Eagle, save a board image as a PDF, (actual size) then save the PDF as a JPEG. The JPEG turns out actual size when saved this way.

I do my enclosure layouts in MS Office Visio. I insert the board image into a border for the enclosure, and "place" the drill holes for the components right over a ghosted image of the actual board. The end result is a mock up of the enclosure, a drilling template, and the enclosure artwork.

Here's the artwork/drilling template for the above board:

Quote from: armdnrdy on October 21, 2014, 11:22:34 AM
If you are referring to the board layout versus the holes drilled in the enclosure....yes.

Yea, it was mostly the stress created if not exactly right both horizontally, vertically and laterally. I've gotten really good with a caliper since beginning building pedals.  Sitting here thinking about it, all I could think of is that the slightest misalignment or pressure when the board is mounted in, and with with those jacks attached would pull on or cause the joints to eventually break so it was just a confirmation on my part.

I'm sure this was all worked out before I showed up but the small tolerances required became apparent as I was considering the idea.

I read a lot on stress from board mounted hardware on this site and....I don't see it if care is taken to lay the drill holes out properly.

I place the board into the enclosure and screw in the jack threaded hubs, and put on the pot nuts. There's no jostling things around to make it work.

You are correct...a caliper and a square are my main tools when laying out an enclosure design.

QuoteI read a lot on stress from board mounted hardware on this site and....I don't see it if care is taken to lay the drill holes out properly.

Gotcha, it was my own curiosity because well, I'm getting tired of wiring stuff. Great character building skill I suppose but it takes a lot of time as noted earlier I've rounded that skill out enough by now. Thanks for the info!

Quote from: karbomusic on October 21, 2014, 12:32:45 PM

I'm getting tired of wiring stuff. Great character building skill I suppose...

If you want a great character building skill...routing a board with on board pots, switches, and jacks will build great character!

You suddenly have less board space for components! You have to get very creative to make things work and to tame the wild routing beast! 

SMD technology gives a lot of space on PCB because SMT components and pots/switches are on the opposite sides of the PCB.
So one can place pots/switches onboard hence avoid wiring them.

Quote from: armdnrdy on October 21, 2014, 12:59:19 PM

Quote from: karbomusic on October 21, 2014, 12:32:45 PM

I'm getting tired of wiring stuff. Great character building skill I suppose...

If you want a great character building skill...routing a board with on board pots, switches, and jacks will build great character!

You suddenly have less board space for components! You have to get very creative to make things work and to tame the wild routing beast! 

I bet! One design I've been doing in Eagle, I have the pots (4 of them) measured and sitting on the PCB, then I saw your jacks hmm... I haven't built it yet. You are right though, took a bit of measuring to make sure they were going to fit. Tolerances, lots of fun, love the challenge.

Quote from: DDD on October 21, 2014, 01:36:43 PM
SMD technology gives a lot of space on PCB because SMT components and pots/switches are on the opposite sides of the PCB.
So one can place pots/switches onboard hence avoid wiring them.

Utilizing SMD, multilayer boards, and vapor phase soldering...one is only limited by the physical size of the hardware.

Unfortunately...this is DIY and not manufacturing. I etch and drill my own boards so...it's through hole, hand soldering, and single sided boards for the most part.

I'm afraid that my 51 year old eyes would struggle with SMD...even with glasses and an industrial lighted magnifier! 

I have to say my glasses are +2.0 and I WAS afraid of SMT, too.
But six years ago I got my mind changed. Today I cannot even imagine myself using through-hole technology.
SMT rules for sure.

Quote from: DDD on October 22, 2014, 11:18:41 AM
I have to say my glasses are +2.0 and I WAS afraid of SMT, too.
But six years ago I got my mind changed. Today I cannot even imagine myself using through-hole technology.
SMT rules for sure.

'

Once SMD is the only choice (if that occurs), I'll probably move on to other things because it simply isn't something I enjoy. It doesn't "rule" for me personally for example. Regular ole through hole parts are almost to small for my enjoyment and I'm not getting younger so chances are SMD will never be for me. That could change but the point is "x rules" is 100% subjective like sports teams.