Soldering Germanium transistors?

[Nitefly182]

Im building a few germanium fuzzes and Id rather not socket the transistors to keep the builds cleaner and ensure that nothing vibrates loose over time. I know I need to get in and out quick when soldering germanium transistors but is there anything else I should consider or look out for? Does everyone socket theirs? I've noticed a number of builders that use germaniums solder them but they probably have a lot more stock to select from and test before they build pedals.

[Boogdish]

you could try to use an alligator clip or something as a heat sink on the device for further protection.  If you're iron is adjustable heat, adjust the heat down real low.  Other than that I don't know.

[petemoore]

but is there anything else I should consider or look out for? 
  Starting with prepared, clean surfaces involved with the solder joint makes good 'flow' happen more easily.
  One lead at a time helps keep the heat from ramping up as far in the transistor body, generally short heating then a cooling spell.
  Does everyone socket theirs?
  Mike doesn't, I often do.

[kurtlives]

I think most people make them out to be more sensitive then they really are.

On my first build (crappy at soldering then, right) I unsoldered and resoldered my OC44 at least 5 times. Worked fine...

I always solder my transistors, BJTs, FETs, mojo transistors. Like you said, get in there get the job done then get the hell out.

[caress]

just get in and out as quick as you can... shouldn't take more than 1-3 seconds anyway.

[yeeshkul]

clean the legs, make sure the pad is not greasy or dirty, pre-heat the soldering iron, stick the iron-tip in so it touches both - the pad and the leg and apply solder from the side - you shall be able to do it in 1 second. a tiny bit of solder is enough - just there and back.

[Zben3129]

use 60/40 stuff, never use lead free for soldering sensitive parts,
use solder with the flux core
use flux in addition to that
clean the pads
sink the leg with a clip lead

If you do that you should be fine. I have a 5 watt iron I keep just for soldering delicate parts. I have it not because I'm worried about frying parts, but rather so I don't even have to consider it when I am debugging 

I also use a special Kester solder that I like just for that (can't find it anywhere anymore  I think its like 63 / 37 or something wierd like that)

Zach

[frokost]

you could try to use an alligator clip or something as a heat sink on the device for further protection.  If you're iron is adjustable heat, adjust the heat down real low.  Other than that I don't know.

Not so sure about the low heat thing: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=51215.0

[caress]

yeah, higher high is probably preferred.  it will take less time to solder the joint...

[Sir H C]

And solder them in last.  Get the resistors, caps and leads all done, then put in the transistors.  Can tin the holes if you want, but as said I usually just do a lead at a time with a cool down period.

[frequencycentral]

I soldered these Ge suckers with no problemo:

[bumblebee]

you could try to use an alligator clip or something as a heat sink on the device for further protection

I used to do this until I had the confidence to just solder them straight in, I'v never ruined one yet.