Powered pedalboard in with dieing battery option

[Oatmeal]

I am planning on building a pedalboard in a vintage suitcase (whats new?) and I'm trying to figure out which schematic to use.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/ultra_clean_ps_sc.gif
or
http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/Spyder/spyder.htm
Does anyone have any opinion as to which is better and why?

I would like to use the dieing battery option on half of the outputs but after scouring the web I can't find any values for the resistors.

Additionally, since I cannot imagine ever selling this and I have a lot of room in the suitcase I'm planning on building this stuff straight into the case:
a Decimator G-string from the reverse engineered threadhttp://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88902.0
a clean boost, a kill switch, and a few buffers (for input, output, send and return).

I'm planning to put the clean boost on the return to the amp from the effects loop. Does that sound right?

Thanks ahead of time for any help?

[FUZZZZzzzz]

first of all.. be careful when building powersupplies.. i dont know if you're experienced, but you can seriously die doing this!

as for the dieing battery: http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/DBS/

[Oatmeal]

Yeah I guess I should have pre-qualified that I have played with a lot of AC. By the way, there should be an electrocution emoticon.

[Oatmeal]

So this is what I came up with after doing the math the hard way. It's kind of a mix between R.G.'s Spyder and GGG's ultra clean power supply. R.G. doesn't have any values for any of the resistors on the geofex site so I had to figure them out. The pots are a 10k dualgang linear pot. I am also going to add some VU meters that I found on ebay. I can't figure out how to simulate it on my mac so if someone would test the output that would be awesome. I'm going to use 2 weber 8 output transformers. I would really love some feedback from @R.G. or anyone else who sees any glaring mistakes or overkill.

Power by Oatmeal_76, on Flickr

Edit: It's my first self drawn schematic and my first experience with Eagle so please excuse the clutter.

[Oatmeal]

Change R4 to 2.8k and that gets from 9.47V to 6.96V

[Oatmeal]

On some of these I'm not going to have the dieing battery circuit. I don't think it would be very useful on some pedals( noise gate, eq, reverb, delay...) not to mention the cost of all those dual gang pots. So on those circuits without it I will omit both pots as well as R4 and R5, and replace R3 with a 1.5k or 1.6k(1584 Ohms gives you 9.5V, 1.5k = 9.06V, 1.6k = 9.58V)

[Oatmeal]

I guess the zombie apocalypse has left me all alone to figure out my power supply. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?   I was reading the part on this page about self inductance.
http://about-guitar-amps.com/capacitors.html
I figured out the purpose of the capacitors in parallel but now I think that I will add a 10uf tantalum cap in series with C4 (which should be ceramic). Does it matter if it is before or after it? I figure before since it is filtering lower frequencies, correct?

Should I do the same before C5?

Also I noticed that the pot before the output should be wired in reverse so that the resistance goes up as the voltage goes down.

[defaced]

I don't see anything glaringly wrong with your design after a cursory look, but have some questions which might help me (and others) help you:

-What is the part number of the regulator you are using?  Have you consulted its data sheet? Usually there are app notes regarding cap size and type if it is important.
-I presume the use of a dual gang pot is to simulate loss of charge and increased internal resistance of the battery; is that correct?
-What is the part number of the power transformer you plan to use?  You have +/- 11v marked on the schematic, that seems suspect to me.  Are you actually using a 11-0-11 secondary or do you mean to say a 0-11 secondary? The use of a bridge rectifier and absence of a center tap makes me think you really mean it's a 0-11 secondary. 
-Do you intend to prototype this before you build it? 

[Oatmeal]

-What is the part number of the regulator you are using?

lm317t (The schematic is labeled)

Have you consulted its data sheet?

I did now.... I just read two different manufactures data sheets.
I was using it because it was in both of the other schematics and I had already looked at the amperage rating and the input voltage and output voltage range.
I knew it should work.

Usually there are app notes regarding cap size and type if it is important.

Yeah, but they are pretty loose suggestions, not hard rules. The addition of the tantalum cap to the existing values in the ggg schematic was suggested by the link in my last post.

-I presume the use of a dual gang pot is to simulate loss of charge and increased internal resistance of the battery; is that correct?

Yeah that's based on R.G.'s Spyder

-What is the part number of the power transformer you plan to use?

WPDLXFMR-1 near the end of the page
https://taweber.powweb.com/store/magnetic.htm

You have +/- 11v marked on the schematic, that seems suspect to me.  Are you actually using a 11-0-11 secondary or do you mean to say a 0-11 secondary? The use of a bridge rectifier and absence of a center tap makes me think you really mean it's a 0-11 secondary. 

I'm not an EE but I'm pretty sure it's +/-11V coming out of that transformer. I used a diode bridge because I have tons of diodes. Is there a reason I should use a bridge rectifier instead. I'm kind of a noob but I did build a tube amp and I worked as as electrician's apprentice for 2 years. I just spent 20 minutes looking at phase related stuff  on the web to verify my understanding of +/-V  because you've made me unsure of myself, but I came to the conclusion that I don't care. If I labeled it wrong, sorry. It is the right transformer to use for this application and I have no idea why I shouldn't use a diode bridge.

-Do you intend to prototype this before you build it?

I would like to simulate it, but heck no. I can't think of a truly safe way to prototype AC. I'll use Paul Ruby's amp start up procedure again as much as it applies. Bottom line: I'm not going to kill myself.

Thanks for actually responding though. I hope I cleared up the fuzzy areas. Once I figure out how to simulate it on my mac I can test the output, until then I would love more of your thoughts.

[slacker]

If you wanted to prototype it on breadboard safely before building it you could use an AC wallwart to replace the transformer, avoiding the need for any exposed mains.
This would be reasonable test of the whole design.
Or to test just the regulator setup and battery simulator parts,  you could use a DC wallwart.

[Oatmeal]

LTSpice is nutty! The gui stinks and I can't figure out how to add parts to the library.  Just venting. sorry. I wish I had some wallwarts laying around but I don't.