Just wondering if this conductive epoxy will work as well with copper PCBs? It might open up a whole new way of building for those of us still in through-hole land.
The stuff is great and easy to work with once you get used to dabbing it on with a pin vice (I have needles bent, flattened, and sharpened all sorts of ways to get down into RF channels, but for regular PCB work a sewing needle or syringe would be just fine, you can even stencil it on for big operations) I find it's a lot easier to epoxy some things because you can put the put the epoxy on the pad and drop the components in with tweezers and make sure it's settled in. For me it's better than tweezers in one hand, soldering iron in the other.
Keep in mind, there is no cleaning action of the flux so whatever you're working on needs to be very clean, the Enepig board in the picture doesn't oxidize and takes solder, epoxy, gold wire, and aluminum wire equally as well which makes it great to work on. When I use it on a copper board I make sure it's nice and shiny, then I keep a ceramic IC next to my microscope and I scrub all the tinned components on it before I place them, gold plated stuff is fine the way it is.
The other part to remember is that it shears pretty easy, if you have a nice stable substrate it will cool down to 15 Kelvin hundreds of times, no problem, but if you are going to flex or bend it at all it will break which is why my power connector is soldered and then glued with non-conductive epoxy.
And lastly, you need an oven or hot plate to cure it properly, otherwise you will have to wait a week for it to cure at room temperature, generally I do 20 minutes at 120C.
