MXR Microamp clone with Led Popping (from GGG)

JPGraphX · August 21, 2013, 12:35:13 PM

I didnt change anything and my led is not working anymore.. so I decided to try your 3PDT wiring (with my actual switch because I don't have another one now) and I have the same problem .. LED not working, still a pop.

JP

JPGraphX · August 21, 2013, 01:28:33 PM

At my capacitors when my switch is off I have 3.8V at C5 , 3.66V at C4 and 0V at C3. When my switch is on, I have about 4.5V (fluctuating from 4 to 5) on C5, 3.55V at C4 and about 0V (from -1.5 to 1.5V) at C3.

Is this normal, what measure would you like to have ?

JPGraphX · August 21, 2013, 01:31:03 PM

By the way I still have a popping sound and my led isn't working anymore! (275mv at LED)

pappasmurfsharem · August 21, 2013, 01:43:10 PM

Quote from: JPGraphX on August 21, 2013, 01:31:03 PM
By the way I still have a popping sound and my led isn't working anymore! (275mv at LED)

did you check continuity at the center lug and top middle lug already?

Does you DMM beep in both modes?

JPGraphX · August 21, 2013, 01:52:33 PM

Yes continuity when switches is on, and no continuity at off..

JPGraphX · August 21, 2013, 02:03:05 PM

Damnn... !! I'm going to throw that fuc**** pedal out of the window ! :@

induction · August 21, 2013, 02:22:42 PM

Led's are easy to kill, you may simply need to replace it. You can test it with a battery and a 1k resistor, unconnected to the rest of the circuit. In any case, the popping does not seem to be coming from the led (or at least not just from the led).

Sometimes switching pop is caused by the switch itself. You can test it by replacing the switch, or by unsoldering the input and output leads and doing the switching manually (just touch the wires together). If you still get a pop, then you know which connection it's coming from.
(Since there is a pulldown resistor on the input, the fact that you have DC there is troubling, and my guess is that it will pop when you connect the input jack to the circuit input.) If it doesn't pop, then it must be the switch.

Do the bypass and effected signals sound ok?

Have you cleaned up the soldering? If so, can you post new pictures?

JPGraphX · August 21, 2013, 03:52:51 PM

Is there a way to test with à multimeter my switch?

induction · August 21, 2013, 04:17:27 PM

You can use the DMM to test whether the switch is functioning (continuity between the correct lugs), but not whether it's producing a pop. The only ways I know of to test that involve removing it. If you don't have a replacement, you could remove all of the connections and wire the input jack to the middle lug (2) of the first pole, and the output jack to both of the outer lugs (1 and 3) of the same pole, and check if it pops when you switch it). Repeat for all three poles.

Switch lugs are numbered this way (each column is one pole):
1 4 7
2 5 8
3 6 9

If it does pop this way, the pop might not be as loud because it won't be amplified by the pedal circuit, but it should be audible.

Kipper4 · August 21, 2013, 04:29:16 PM

are you using metal or plastic insulated input and out put jacks?
Is the enclosure grounded?
(didnt read all the previous posts so it may have been done) Ignore this if you checked this already

JPGraphX · August 22, 2013, 11:41:44 AM

Metal insulated jack, my enclosure isnt grounded.. It is not suppose to?

JPGraphX · August 22, 2013, 12:39:32 PM

I bought IPA and cleaned my PCB

So next step, I want to wire without 3pdt but I dont clearly understand how!

midwayfair · August 22, 2013, 01:05:33 PM

Quote from: JPGraphX on August 22, 2013, 11:41:44 AMMetal insulated jack

Which jack? There are three (input, output, DC). Insulated or ENCLOSED? Enclosed simply has plastic surrounding the metal; insulated means that no metal from the jack touches the case. The DC jack should never connect to the enclosure and so we use insulated jacks for that. Insulated input/output jacks are not very common. Enclosed are more common. I'm fairly certain that the ones you get from a GGG kit are always metal input/output, and the DC jacks they send are also always the right kind.

Quote, my enclosure isnt grounded.. It is not suppose to?

Your enclosure should be grounded if you used metal jacks and grounded the sleeve of at least one (the other will connect to ground simply by touching the case). It doesn't HAVE to be to function, but it will certainly keep the pedal quieter to ground the enclosure. If you have neglected to ground the sleeves (both), you need to do that.

Your reflowed PCB looks MUCH nicer. Time to reattach the off-board wiring.

Can you explain what you mean by wanting to wire without the 3PDT? You mean you want it always on, no switch at all? For that, attach the input wire to the tip lug of the Input jack, and the output wire to the tip lug of the output jack. If you want to have the LED turn on when the pedal is on, you can hook it up to the ring of a stereo input jack -- then it will be grounded when you plug in a mono 1/4" cable.

JPGraphX · August 22, 2013, 01:19:36 PM

I tested all capacitors and resistors, all good. Now I test my 3PDT lug per lug.

JPGraphX · August 22, 2013, 02:22:47 PM

Quote from: midwayfair on August 22, 2013, 01:05:33 PM
Quote from: JPGraphX on August 22, 2013, 11:41:44 AMMetal insulated jack

Which jack? There are three (input, output, DC). Insulated or ENCLOSED? Enclosed simply has plastic surrounding the metal; insulated means that no metal from the jack touches the case. The DC jack should never connect to the enclosure and so we use insulated jacks for that. Insulated input/output jacks are not very common. Enclosed are more common. I'm fairly certain that the ones you get from a GGG kit are always metal input/output, and the DC jacks they send are also always the right kind.

Quote, my enclosure isnt grounded.. It is not suppose to?

Your enclosure should be grounded if you used metal jacks and grounded the sleeve of at least one (the other will connect to ground simply by touching the case). It doesn't HAVE to be to function, but it will certainly keep the pedal quieter to ground the enclosure. If you have neglected to ground the sleeves (both), you need to do that.

Your reflowed PCB looks MUCH nicer. Time to reattach the off-board wiring.

Can you explain what you mean by wanting to wire without the 3PDT? You mean you want it always on, no switch at all? For that, attach the input wire to the tip lug of the Input jack, and the output wire to the tip lug of the output jack. If you want to have the LED turn on when the pedal is on, you can hook it up to the ring of a stereo input jack -- then it will be grounded when you plug in a mono 1/4" cable.

You are right.

I have finished wiring my pedal, it is working like before, but I still have that pop!

It can't be the enclosure because I removed it.

So my pedal is working like suppose to, but big Pop when engaging. Could it really be my 3PDT, it's on on, should not make a pop...? Damn I checked everything, from resistors to cap, diode, solder ...

JP

JPGraphX · August 22, 2013, 02:26:52 PM

midwayfair · August 22, 2013, 04:22:40 PM

Does the LED work now? Disconnect the LED. Does it still pop when switched?

Tap the switch on the table without switching it. Does it make a noise?

JPGraphX · August 22, 2013, 04:25:43 PM

Yes the LED work, give me 5min to test that!

wavley · August 22, 2013, 04:56:57 PM

The solder on the green wire top middle of the picture of you switch looks suspect to me. Your pop might be a microphonic one, so this...

Quote from: midwayfair on August 22, 2013, 04:22:40 PM
Does the LED work now? Disconnect the LED. Does it still pop when switched?

Tap the switch on the table without switching it. Does it make a noise?

JPGraphX · August 22, 2013, 05:00:39 PM

Ive cut wire to led, still a pop. And knocking on switch aint doing noise

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MXR Microamp clone with Led Popping (from GGG)