Mutron Flanger Clone

[Ronan]

That DOES sound very nice. I would use a bit less resonance myself, but if there were any nasties in there, we would have heard them in the clip! I like it a lot!

Very nice build doc pdf too. You all did a great job.

Larry, I was wondering if you would nut it all out in the end, which you did, and its great to see such a good result

[Govmnt_Lacky]

@Larry,

Did you use the Tayda LDRs for your pedal? I see that they carry the type listed in your document but I wanted to know if you used Tayda pieces before pulling the trigger.

[armdnrdy]

@ Ian,

Thanks for the compliment and all of the help!
I agree with less resonance. I had it cranked during most of the video sample. Usually when I'm playing through this flanger, adjusting the stop/start controls, I'm adjusting the resonance as well. Working all three controls brings about a large selection of different shades of sound.

Mark commented on the resonance not being that hollow tube, metallic, type of sound like most flangers.
I agree, this circuit is very usable across the spectrum of controls.

@ Greg,
Yes, Tayda LDRs as listed in the build docs.

If there is a part number listed, that's what I used except for the DC jack.

That number is from an Eagle part. I forgot to wipe it so it wouldn't be misleading.

For the jack I used the PC mount, DC jack the Tayda stocks: 
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/hardware/dc-power/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-barrel-type-pcb-mount.html

It's a standard 2.1mm X 5.5mm jack that can be sourced from countless outlets.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Thanks Larry. I saw the part number in the build doc but didn't know if you got them from Tayda or not (or I missed that reference in the doc  )

Cannot wait to get to building this!!! AWESOME WORK!!! 

[armdnrdy]

As I stated in the build document.....with only 1000 of these flangers made....they can go for a ridiculous amount of money when one comes up for auction.

$1650 starting price...and one bid on it! Not exactly collectors quality either!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mutron-Flanger-/111235077117?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item19e62093fd

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Odd that he references "Hen's Teeth" in the description 

Wonder if they are a member here and have seen some of Dino's videos 

[digi2t]

Not mine, and I'm in no way related to the auction in question.

But... mine will be going on the block soon, so the bid on $1650 bodes well for me.

Disclaimer/Acknowledgement: To my knowledge, the term "Hen's Tooth" was formally popularized by Jimi Photon, from whom I borrowed it. "The Hen's Tooth Café" would like to state, for the record, that Mr. Photon deserves all credit for the intellectual property behind the decision to name my videos, and workshop, as such. Anyone considering use of the term "Hen's Tooth", and/or any of it's related forms, may wish to consider the following legal implications;

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Or not.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Not too much building of this going on 

From the responses and interest... Color me surprised 

[fendman]

Not too much building of this going on 

From the responses and interest... Color me surprised 

Well Greg, I made a start on this  pedal which is certainly a challenge. I got a Morley enclosure on Ebay which was for spares or repair.  I etched the boards and I am at the

stage of populating the main board...and everything seems to be going to plan, apart from finding the 10k trimmers which you can alter from underneath... Mouser is out of the

question because of the price so if anybody has a link for a company in the UK that would be appreciated.

One other point as regards D10 the MS6102...which I can't get, but  Larry says as an alternative you can use 2 matched 1n914's  does that mean matched in the

sense of FV forward voltage ? So apart from the afore mentioned I am enjoying this challenge.

Thanks Larry and the others for making this great project available..Anybody else thinking about doing it...I think it is well worth the effort

MIke

[armdnrdy]

Hey Mike,

You can use this trimmer Piher PT6KV-103A2020 as well.

This trimmer is a slightly different style but it has the same footprint as the one specified in the build document.
http://www.soselectronic.com/a_info/resource/a/pdf/pt6.pdf

For your European buying pleasure:
http://www.banzaimusic.com/PT6-horizontal-10k.html

The dual diode can be replaced with forward voltage matched 4148s. You should have no problem finding a matched pair out of a small group of diodes.

[fendman]

Thanks for the info Larry appreciated

Mike

[Anon]

Anybody plan on having the PCB's made for this project? I'm willing to buy a few. If somebody had them made they would definitely sell 

[Strategy]

Anybody plan on having the PCB's made for this project? I'm willing to buy a few. If somebody had them made they would definitely sell 

Same for me!

[soulheal]

Finally got around to getting a short sample video together of the Mutron Flanger clone.

Thanks go out to all that helped in the process! Special thanks go to Ian (ronan), Federico (fender3D), R.G. (who can never be thanked enough for sharing his wisdom) Oh yeah...did I forget someone? My partner in crime on this project. Dino (digi2T)

Complete project files coming soon.

Hi,

I have, over the past year or so, managed to build 2 of the Mutron Flanger clones. However, they do not seem to work. I am not getting any signal through them when plugged in. the LEDS do not light up, I do not get a bypass signal going through the pedal, and there is no effect.
I am powering them with a 12v AC/AC 3A power supply as instructed. I am using a 12V 3A max AC/AC power supply. Is this the right one? Should it be input DC/output AC? When I hook up a multimeter to the solder points on the power input when plugged in, I get a reading of .070 VAC.
I feel that i have missed something basic. It may be the fault of a cold-solder or 2, as this is my first real build.

I have not calibrated them yet, and I don't know if this is why they are not activating. At any rate, I was hoping to get a few pointers as to what may be causing this. I did my best to keep to all the right parts. Even ordered stuff from Europe.
I hope that i can at least get on the right track to an answer. I was hoping to sell or trade one and keep one.

I can't figure out how to enable attachments of photos at the moment.

Any suggestions as to what info will be the most helpful for this situation will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your help and best regards,

Will



ftp://

[armdnrdy]

Hi,

I have, over the past year or so, managed to build 2 of the Mutron Flanger clones. However, they do not seem to work. I am not getting any signal through them when plugged in. the LEDS do not light up, I do not get a bypass signal going through the pedal, and there is no effect.
I am powering them with a 12v AC/AC 3A power supply as instructed. I am using a 12V 3A max AC/AC power supply. Is this the right one? Should it be input DC/output AC? When I hook up a multimeter to the solder points on the power input when plugged in, I get a reading of .070 VAC.
I feel that i have missed something basic. It may be the fault of a cold-solder or 2, as this is my first real build.

I have not calibrated them yet, and I don't know if this is why they are not activating. At any rate, I was hoping to get a few pointers as to what may be causing this. I did my best to keep to all the right parts. Even ordered stuff from Europe.
I hope that i can at least get on the right track to an answer. I was hoping to sell or trade one and keep one.

I can't figure out how to enable attachments of photos at the moment.

Any suggestions as to what info will be the most helpful for this situation will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your help and best regards,

Will

As per the build document,
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Pedal%20Flanger%20Build%20Document.pdf
the proper power supply is 18VDC or 12VAC.
Use your multimeter to check the power supply output when it is not plugged into the flanger.
Make sure that your meter is on "AC" or ~

[soulheal]

Hi,

I have, over the past year or so, managed to build 2 of the Mutron Flanger clones. However, they do not seem to work. I am not getting any signal through them when plugged in. the LEDS do not light up, I do not get a bypass signal going through the pedal, and there is no effect.
I am powering them with a 12v AC/AC 3A power supply as instructed. I am using a 12V 3A max AC/AC power supply. Is this the right one? Should it be input DC/output AC? When I hook up a multimeter to the solder points on the power input when plugged in, I get a reading of .070 VAC.
I feel that i have missed something basic. It may be the fault of a cold-solder or 2, as this is my first real build.

I have not calibrated them yet, and I don't know if this is why they are not activating. At any rate, I was hoping to get a few pointers as to what may be causing this. I did my best to keep to all the right parts. Even ordered stuff from Europe.
I hope that i can at least get on the right track to an answer. I was hoping to sell or trade one and keep one.

I can't figure out how to enable attachments of photos at the moment.

Any suggestions as to what info will be the most helpful for this situation will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks for your help and best regards,

Will

As per the build document,
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Pedal%20Flanger%20Build%20Document.pdf
the proper power supply is 18VDC or 12VAC.
Use your multimeter to check the power supply output when it is not plugged into the flanger.
Make sure that your meter is on "AC" or ~

Hi,

Thanks for your quick response!
I tested the power supply and I get a reading of 13.72 VAC.

Tried plugging it in again just to be sure and still got no signal to pass through the pedal.

Thanks!

Will

[armdnrdy]

If you're not getting voltage on the power connector solder pins when the adapter is plugged in...check continuity between the connector pins and the copper traces that they are soldered to.

Check for shorts (solder bridges) between the power traces. Also check for hairline etching "cuts" along the power traces. You can check these possible issues with the continuity function on your meter.

[soulheal]

Hi,

Thanks for your quick response!
I tested the power supply and I get a reading of 13.72 VAC. When I plug it in and  I test the solder points with Positive on the power input and negative on the PCB I get the same reading. When I test the positive on the power input and the negative on the ground I get a wandering number between .8 and .9 VAC. It looks like a bad power input or a cold solder on one of the units because when i test the other unit I get 13.65 or so when testing the solder points of the positive and negative of the ground. I guess this is why I built 2 of them!

Tried plugging it in again just to be sure and still got no signal to pass through either pedal. although the capacitor by the power input starts to heat up a bit on the unit with the good power input.

I looks like I will just have to test every one of the components, but I sure hope not. I exercising a lot of delayed gratification here!

Thanks!

Will

[armdnrdy]

Double check the orientation of polarized capacitors, diodes, etc. Also check IC orientation.
Make sure everything matches the overlay on page 8 of the build doc.

[armdnrdy]

Maybe you should concentrate on the build where you have AC power at the power jack.

Check for 15VDC at the points designated by red arrows.

If you have 15VDC between those points, follow the power and ground traces to make sure you have power throughout the board.

Check all power and ground jumper solder connections.