z vex clear coat?

Started by BlackEdition, December 16, 2013, 10:09:14 AM

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davent

Quote from: wavley on December 16, 2013, 04:56:01 PM
Quote from: davent on December 16, 2013, 02:30:11 PM
Another angle to explore is finishes made for wood such as Varathane, Polycrylic... With any the question is always how the paint and clearcoats may interact.

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/boxinaday.html

I did a finished plywood floor in my bedroom, that stuff is pretty runny, I've never tried to paint anything other than a flat surface with it.  It is very tough, if I remember correctly it's got aluminum in it to help with wear.  I think I still have some, maybe I'll give a box a try with it.

Pretty runny is putting it mildly, does not like vertical surfaces. Have had good results with both Varathane and Polycrylic  (both waterborne) applied with an airbrush but real easy to get runs, waterborne lacquer is far less challenging to use, Target 7000. The Varathane never completely loses the milky appearance, it's not bad, where the Polycrylic does, best is the Target.

To the OP, you can get silent running compressors for airbrushing - expensive,  or some people get tanks of compressed CO2(?) which are noiseless except for the hiss of the air.
dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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alanp

If you're especially lazy when it comes to graphics (like me), clear nail polish works well. Brush it over the graphics, let it dry on the windowsil, hard as nails (literally.)

Test it first, though. It will dissolve some stuff.

BlackEdition

thank you everybody for the suggestions!  the most attractive method for me at this point in time seems to be the envirotex method.  i looked at the manufacturers directions as posted on their website, and it seems like this is safe to do indoors.  is that correct?  or does it need to be done in really well ventilated areas?  if it is safe to do indoors, that would be great...

a curiosity question is how thick does this coating usually go on?  i'd prefer a thinner to a thicker finish...

alphadog808

Well, the fumes are definitely not really strong like other products, but there is a smell.  I'd say you'd probably want ventilation(especially if the instructions mention it).  It runs..medium, maybe like a little bit thicker than maple syrup?  Thicker than automotive oil...

BlackEdition

i see...  do you know how thick the coating is when it dries?  is it going to be on the order of paint thickness? 

alphadog808

Quote from: BlackEdition on December 17, 2013, 02:06:46 PM
i see...  do you know how thick the coating is when it dries?  is it going to be on the order of paint thickness? 
I think it's partially how you pour, but make no mistake, it goes on pretty thick.  They advertise one pour is the same as 60 spray coats.  It is much thicker than commercial pedals you see around.  I has a very smooth, glassy look to it.  This is usually used to cover/protect wood tables, bars, etc, so imagine that kind of coverage on the pedal.  It looks good, but it is definitely thicker than what you see in store bought pedals.

BlackEdition

that is what i thought...  that might not be a particularly bad thing...  i suppose it would be really difficult to mess up the artwork even under heavy use!

GGBB

Quote from: davent on December 16, 2013, 05:50:46 PM
Quote from: wavley on December 16, 2013, 04:56:01 PM
Quote from: davent on December 16, 2013, 02:30:11 PM
Another angle to explore is finishes made for wood such as Varathane, Polycrylic... With any the question is always how the paint and clearcoats may interact.

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/boxinaday.html

I did a finished plywood floor in my bedroom, that stuff is pretty runny, I've never tried to paint anything other than a flat surface with it.  It is very tough, if I remember correctly it's got aluminum in it to help with wear.  I think I still have some, maybe I'll give a box a try with it.

Pretty runny is putting it mildly, does not like vertical surfaces. Have had good results with both Varathane and Polycrylic  (both waterborne) applied with an airbrush but real easy to get runs, waterborne lacquer is far less challenging to use, Target 7000. The Varathane never completely loses the milky appearance, it's not bad, where the Polycrylic does, best is the Target.

To the OP, you can get silent running compressors for airbrushing - expensive,  or some people get tanks of compressed CO2(?) which are noiseless except for the hiss of the air.
dave

I am also liking the water-based poly better than the clear enamels like Krylon Crystal Clear.  Goes on better (spray can), cures faster, and seems so far to be a lot more durable.
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alphadog808

BlackEdition, since I was doing a pedal tonight, I figured I'd take some pics to show you how easy this is...side note, putting the 2 bottles in hot water before using really helps it flow and helps bubbles from getting stuck.  Anyways, here ya go, hope it helps.

My work area...thanks USPS!   ;D


I took this one so you could see the tape and the nails that hold up the enclosure.


Top view...blurry shot.  :-\  Can you guess what pedal this will be?   :icon_cool:


Back plate...


Not much to clean up...


I use the bin to keep dust/particles out

Morocotopo

I used, a long time ago, a two part epoxy clear, water based. Nice, but I applied it with a brush, so I got stripes in the finish. But it was harder than any lacquer, AND it didnĀ“t dissolve in contact with some products, like the solvents in the rubber jacket of the cables used to keep them flexible. It would be great to have a sprayable clear epoxi, water based...
Morocotopo

waltk

Quotethank you everybody for the suggestions!  the most attractive method for me at this point in time seems to be the envirotex method.  i looked at the manufacturers directions as posted on their website, and it seems like this is safe to do indoors.  is that correct?  or does it need to be done in really well ventilated areas?  if it is safe to do indoors, that would be great...

a curiosity question is how thick does this coating usually go on?  i'd prefer a thinner to a thicker finish...

I used it to coat a pinewood derby car for my son once.  Here's what I remember about it... 

Don't remember any odor at all - like epoxy, nothing volatile in it.

Didn't cure as fast as I thought it would.  If you touch it too early, you'll have a permanent fingerprint.  Let it cure over night no matter how fast the directions say it will cure.

How thick? - SUPER thick; about 1/8 inch.  More like one of those fake resin ice cubes with a bug in it than a finish.  Would probably make a structurally rock-hard enclosure if you poured it over a folded paper box.
 
Most important - prop up the enclosure you're coating on a scrap/sacrificial block and leave the bottom edges hanging in air, otherwise the thick run-off will pool around the bottom edge of your enclosure.

BlackEdition

wow, thanks for all the replies!  all these seem like great options. 

@alpha thanks so much for taking those pictures!  it certainly doesn't seem like an impossible process!  i'm sure that there is a bit of a learning curve, so hopefully the first pedals i try don't come out to heinous!  curiosity question, do you apply the envirotex to the sides of the box too?  i think so based on your pictures, but it is a rather clear coating, so it's hard to tell!  i'm definitely interested in coating the whole enclosure in case i decide to make the artwork wrap around the sides...

alphadog808

Quote from: BlackEdition on December 19, 2013, 06:04:37 AM
wow, thanks for all the replies!  all these seem like great options. 

@alpha thanks so much for taking those pictures!  it certainly doesn't seem like an impossible process!  i'm sure that there is a bit of a learning curve, so hopefully the first pedals i try don't come out to heinous!  curiosity question, do you apply the envirotex to the sides of the box too?  i think so based on your pictures, but it is a rather clear coating, so it's hard to tell!  i'm definitely interested in coating the whole enclosure in case i decide to make the artwork wrap around the sides...
No prob man, just good timing.  If you wanted to do dry runs you could just pour on top a small cardboard box, tupperware, etc and see how that goes. 

The sides get covered as well.  When you pour on the top, it flows over the sides as well.  I usually use a stick to get it all covered then I let the self leveling do the rest.  I do have problems with my sides sometimes where it's streaky, but it's still covered/protected.  It may be because I don't pour enough for the sides, I focus more on the top...not sure.