Author Topic: X FUZZ (Read 162434 times)

Jdansti · « **Reply #320 on:** July 02, 2014, 02:57:27 AM »

^Will do-Thanks!

Jdansti · « **Reply #321 on:** July 06, 2014, 03:52:40 AM »

Worked up a perf layout and it works great (after fixing my stupid mistakes). The only strange thing is that the presence pot causes the volume to go down to nothing when rotated fully clockwise. I've got pin 3 of the presence pot connected to pin 3 of the tone pot as shown in the last schematic and pin 2 of the presence pot connected to a 1K resistor which is connected to ground as shown. Any thoughts?

I'll post the layout once I get the presence issue worked out. BTW - I just made the straight X Fuzz without the rock/fuzz switch or the final amp stage switch.

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · « **Reply #322 on:** July 06, 2014, 05:55:13 AM »

John glad you got it working ! I can't add much until I see what you have actually built, but if built as I posted it should have volume on all parts of the presence setting. There will will be a shift in volume as the presence changes. That is what it does.
51K

1K

The final stage will make up enough for it to be heard. On 1k it will sound distant and if you move the tone to the treble side it will have an AM radio effect. The presence shifts the tone control around so be sure and experiment.

EDIT: I should not post a response this late at night after drinking

Jdansti · « **Reply #323 on:** July 06, 2014, 01:26:13 PM »

Thanks WhiskeyMike.

I'll take another look at it, and if I can't figure it out, I'll post some photos.

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · « **Reply #324 on:** July 06, 2014, 01:48:22 PM »

The emitter follower I used before the tone stack helps this. That's why I put it there. If you don't have it in place you will hear the tone stack change when you dial around the bias too. It was too interactive for my taste so I buffered the clipper stage. I think I ripped it from the tubescreamer. Can't remember now.

if you get it worked out please post what you did.

Jdansti · « **Reply #325 on:** July 06, 2014, 04:13:48 PM »

Thanks. I think I've got it worked out now. The 8.2n cap (I used 10n) labeled C9 on my layout had been nicked a little when I had sanded the board to make it a little thinner to fit in an "A" size enclosure (an idea which I've abandoned because there's no room for jacks- long story for a small problem). There was some metal showing through the plastic. Anyway, the volume doesn't disappear now when I turn the presence pot clockwise, but I do have to bump the volume control up a bit. I'm getting the range of sounds you described.

Here's my layout. I didn't have yellow LEDs, so I used red (5mm diffused) on my build. I'd appreciate any comments from anyone.

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · « **Reply #326 on:** July 06, 2014, 05:52:12 PM »

Awesome John! Nice looking layout. Looks like you did go for that final stage after all. I will have a better look at it later when I'm off work.

Cozybuilder · « **Reply #327 on:** July 07, 2014, 09:42:55 AM »

Great looking layout John. For coupling cap C4 you have 1 uF, the schematic on p.16 reply #314 shows 470nF in the Fuzz position. I doubt you'd year a difference though. Everything else looks good.
Russ

Jdansti · « **Reply #328 on:** July 07, 2014, 12:21:34 PM »

Thanks, Russ. I might give the 470n a try.

Jdansti · « **Reply #329 on:** July 08, 2014, 12:52:48 AM »

Here's my X Fuzz. I kept the coupling cap at 1μF. It sounds great!

As you can see I used a larger box than was necessary because the knobs are big. I had these great knobs that were scavenged from my Dad's 70's Pioneer tuner that stopped working ages ago. My brother had them stashed for 20 years or so. Since the knobs are shiny aluminum, I just clear coated the enclosure to keep the shiny look. The lettering was done with stamps and permanent ink.

I'll post a copy of the layout that says "Verified" now that I know it works.

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · « **Reply #330 on:** July 08, 2014, 01:07:36 AM »

Looks good John. Love those knobs. If you decide you want more of a scooped tone double c9. Somewhere between 15n and 22n will make it scooped at all the presence settings. As it is now it will be flat at 51k and more scooped as you dial it down to 1k.

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · « **Reply #331 on:** July 08, 2014, 01:15:51 AM »

Here is mine. I had fits with the paint. It seems like everything I tried worked out wrong on this one. That is what I get for experimenting...experience and heartache.

I finally just gave up and went with it. I'll mark it up as lessons learned for the next one.

bluebunny · « **Reply #332 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:08:02 AM »

Great build, John. Nothing wrong with big knobs.

Yours too, Michael - the colours look great.

Jdansti · « **Reply #333 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:18:22 AM »

Thanks Michael and Mark.

I might try that mid scoop, Michael, if I can talk myself into opening it up again and fussing with it.

. Your X-Fire looks great! I have no idea how you did it, but I give it a 10 out of 10!

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · « **Reply #334 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:36:12 AM »

Thanks BlueBunny and John.
John your too kind this is not my best work it was put together after much frustration. I posted the etch technique in another thread . This was a dry film photoresist etch. I am sure someones done it before but I haven' seen it. I have always etched using toner transfer. This was a first and while it did work it was my first attempt with this dry film ever so i had some edge bleeding so it was a light etch.
Next I had problems with the paint!!! I used testor model paint and did the colored parts first and it looked great with a smooth gradient. After it dried i used liquid frisket over it and painted the body a sparkle black. I let that dry overnight and when i peeled off the frisket it was carnage. colored paint was ruined and had gummed up. I tried to touch it up but then I noticed splotches of the frisket had touched the body color and the paint was still gummy and it stuck to it. Tried to sand that back but it ruined the black top coat. I used painters tape and recovered the colors and carefully cut it with a razor and resprayed the black. After it was dry I peeled off the tape and sanded it down flat to get the edges to show.... and now my damn background was higher than the edges after the recoating so it was now scuffed in random spots..........ARGHHHHHHH!

. @#$% it! I wiped it with alcohol and lacquered that box. I'm done lesson learned. Never use testors paint. i will be using good old acrylic artist paint from now own. Sorry for the rant it was pent up frustration

On the plus side the board worked perfect first time and I had zero problems when it fired up.

deadastronaut · « **Reply #335 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:39:54 AM »

great builds guys...@john, i'm always on the lookout for old stereo knobs too , nice.

@whiskey: looks great man, came out cool even after your troubles..well worth the extra grief i'd say...

and the offboard is just like mine..lots of it.

bluebunny · « **Reply #336 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:42:51 AM »

Quote from: deadastronaut on July 08, 2014, 03:39:54 AM

and the offboard is just like mine..lots of it.

Yeah, more "off" than "board".

WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt · « **Reply #337 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:45:31 AM »

Rob you're my role model. I learned from the best

deadastronaut · « **Reply #338 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:47:34 AM »

you guys...

yeah i should be italian with all that pasta flying about...

italianguy63 · « **Reply #339 on:** July 08, 2014, 03:57:39 AM »

Quote from: deadastronaut on July 08, 2014, 03:47:34 AM

you guys... yeah i should be italian with all that pasta flying about...

Did somebody say pasta?! *perk*

MC

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Author Topic: X FUZZ (Read 162434 times)