#PowerupNoisyCricketRatShackBuildHELP#

Started by Rooster72, May 04, 2014, 06:11:48 PM

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Rooster72

My first build not a complete failure.Powered it up by flip of the switch. Led indicator lights have signal. No sparks smoke or smell at ignition.What I am using for a cab or speaker is a 7" pulled from small practice amp. that I know works. Soldered a mono jack via speaker wire to the positive term. to tip, and neg to ring.  I am assumimg no other power is required.
Ok I have gone over somethings,
Checked
* 2 9v batt. Series at 18v    =  17.54v  at rest
* all cables work in other eguiptment
*grit switch led I I dicator lights up as well
NOW I NEED SOME ADVICE TO TROUBLE SHOOT THIS BABY. SHE LOOKS SWEET. But shes a Lazy Cricket...

duck_arse

pictures. post us some pics of what you have built. we go from there, you'll be complaining about the noise in no time.
don't make me draw another line.


Rooster72

Here is more, missed about 75 of you today. Got to work so I can spend all my money at Radio Shack. 35 min. North there is a Marvac, buy having patience and ordering from Small Bear looks the way to go. Ok guys I want this baby to work. I built it slowley so I could occupy my mind. Building two others as well. My wife of 5 years rolled up shop, grabed the Step kids and left 2 months ago.Havnt seen any of them sice since. Shes done this before, I wont even say what number husband I was. I guess people have different levels of commitment. She lives within 3 miles of here. I put my efforts into this Cricket instead of stalking. I know TMI.



Jdansti

Sorry about the martial issues. I just wanted to say that we'll need some close up shots of the board and an image showing the layout you're working from.
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R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

Rooster72

#5










I made a couple mods that I will explain. I will send the pics as well.
Take in mind that the tone pot was moved to the right of the volume pot wich is middle now.
I also could not get Q1-MPF102  was told NTE457  would work as replacement. The pin out is a 180* difference, I should have that correct.

My mods:
*C2 47nf could be swaped for 100nf for befter base. I ran a single wire to a  the middle pin of the SPDT. One wire from each the top and bottom run to one lead of each cap. The other leads have wires that conect to terminal 3 on the Vol. Pot.

*This next mod was a sugestion on the layout. Incorporate an led to show the grit switch is engaged.i will send a drawing of how I wired it to DPDT.






duck_arse

if you compare the mpf102 as drawn here .....


with the all important datasheet, with it's drawing here ......
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/400to499/pdf/nte457.pdf

you'll see the pinout is the same. I was hoping the 180 degree mod was the board connected to the central shaft, with a knob for rotating it. I hope this is the weirdest thing I see tonight, and I hope you get it working.

there is an out-of-focus 220uF cap in one of your pics. it has some red sleeve on the (-) terminal, and some green on the (+). lord alone knows where the wires go; the cap isn't backwards, is it? and why all the silastic?
don't make me draw another line.

Rooster72

Dont like my shaft huh?  Lol
I thought it added a nice visual element. Worked great for a build mount.Anyway the caps polarity are correct, every comection seems to be correct. What did you think about what I did with the caps for the base boost? Any problem with that type of conect
?
I will send a drawing of how I wired the DPDT.
Maybe you can make a judgement on my confusiom with the transistors. The information is not very clear as I do not understand the illustration on my NTE457 package, and if I use the Mpf102 info I gathered it a 50/50 shot.



Lurco

Quote from: Rooster72 on May 06, 2014, 06:20:00 PM
Dont like my shaft huh?  Lol
I thought it added a nice visual element. Worked great for a build mount.Anyway the caps polarity are correct, every comection seems to be correct. What did you think about what I did with the caps for the base boost? Any problem with that type of conect
?
I will send a drawing of how I wired the DPDT.
Maybe you can make a judgement on my confusiom with the transistors. The information is not very clear as I do not understand the illustration on my NTE457 package, and if I use the Mpf102 info I gathered it a 50/50 shot.



Shows FLAT side.

Rooster72

Thank you sir , that would indicate that it is in backwards.. I RESEARCED for hours on that discussion,  and still wasnt enough.

duck_arse

the datasheet, the datasheet, the datasheet. always, the part number you have in your hand, and it's datasheet.

yes, those 2d pics are confusing if you think too hard on them. the 3d is a never fail, that is the one I always draw on my circuit and layout diagrams. in the pins down 2d dia, the smaller rectangle (inside the rectangle) is the same size as the flat. looking at the curved side would show a single rectangle, as wide as the transistor wideness. and when the part is shown fitted in the board, it is generally safe to say the pins are marked as looking on the transistor top, but you will have looked at the datasheet, so it won't matter.

I thought I'd distract you with the electro question, I haven't given your switches a look yet. can you show a circuit diagram of your switch mods, instead of a mechanical? less brainwork on my part.

I didn't say I didn't like your shaft, just wanted it to do more. I get to similar sub-panelling madness in most my builds, but of different shape.
don't make me draw another line.

Rooster72

#11
I will get you a diagram of my switch mods. I have also decided to make an etched pbc tonight. That radio shack pbc is just a pile of crap. I need to test the transistor and make sure I didnt fry it getting it back out. I will check the IC as well. I just need to slow it down and take my time. Last night as I was removing the transistor just tweaking everything I was so carefull with and knowing dam well im heat that sucker up, I just wanted to smash the dam thing....LOL
I just need to let that sh*t go, but I am a perfectionist, as in the steel lining with in the cigar box, it looks great but was it necessary???   Well yeah ,for me it was...
I'll keep you posted.

Scratch that idea, the mod that was made to the new pcb was integrating the pots on to the pcb. I guess that dictates your enclosier choices. That seems like a hastle in itself ,,,   wait no it would ,, man my brain is fried,,, i will just run wires from the pot leads into the pin outs... duh

duck_arse

everything seems under control here then, carry on.

you could always board mount the pots and use shaft extensions to the front panel.
don't make me draw another line.

Rooster72

Quote from: duck_arse on May 08, 2014, 10:47:25 AM
everything seems under control here then, carry on.

you could always board mount the pots and use shaft extensions to the front panel.
The spacing and the order i put the pots in is different. But dont leave me now buddy. Im still going to need you.

duck_arse

don't make me draw another line.

mth5044

Check out the thread called 'Debugging - what to do when it doesn't work'. Follow those steps. The information in this thread is very scattered and confusing to read through. If we can organize it a bit using the steps we can get to the root of this problem and your 386 will be farting out sounds in no time! If you don't have a multimeter, get one.

Rooster72

Quote from: mth5044 on May 08, 2014, 12:59:04 PM
Check out the thread called 'Debugging - what to do when it doesn't work'. Follow those steps. The information in this thread is very scattered and confusing to read through. If we can organize it a bit using the steps we can get to the root of this problem and your 386 will be farting out sounds in no time! If you don't have a multimeter, get one.
I do have a multi meter  but moe as in now im going to test my ic and my transistor, , if you like now a short way to explaim that cool all titorials there so slow and just yammer abought where they bought the dam thing.

Bjt I do think if I can ge the new pbc done by about 12:30 and my parts ar still good .we could get it working. If parts are bad it an hour and a half before I get back from Orvac.