How to Fit LED in pedal enclosure

[Hav]

Hi all,

This is my first post, and please bear with for the ridiculously noob question (I have only built one 'kit' so far).

The kit came with a pre drilled enclosure, and the LED has a small fitting that came with it.

Now that I am trying to drill my own enclosure, I am wondering how I find these LED 'holders' and what they are called?

If anyone knows, please do let me know!

Thanks in advance!

Hav
 

[Tony Forestiere]

https://www.google.com/#q=LED+bezel&safe=off
Welcome. 

[Hav]

Ah Thank you Tony!

:-)

[Jdansti]

Welcome to the forum, Hav!

As Tony noted, there are a lot of bezels out there for LEDs, and I've used several types. Lately, I've been drilling a hole that's a little smaller than the LED and glueing the LED under the hole using super glue or hot glue. You can also make the hole large enough to allow a little bit of the top of the LED to stick up, but I usually don't do this in case I step on it.

Anyway, just another way to skin the cat. Have fun with it!

[armdnrdy]

I've moved away from bezels as well. (they are big, clunky, and serve no purpose...most don't even hold the LED solidly in place)

I started making little "LED boards".





The hole for the LED in the board is just large enough to allow the top portion of the LED through, but stops at the bottom "ring" of the LED.

The LED is inserted in the board hole on the trace side and soldered to the closest pads.

The thickness of the PC board coupled with the thickness of a standard enclosure puts the LED protruding through the enclosure at an ideal depth. (This is for 3mm LEDs. A 5mm LED would need additional board shims to achieve the correct depth)

The non copper side of the board is glued with adhesive (your choice....epoxy, gorilla glue, etc.) to the enclosure making a good, solid connection.

Off board wires are soldered to the trace side of the LED board. The wires can then be routed to switches, LFOs, power. etc.

You can make up a bunch of these boards in a few hours and keep them on hand for future projects.

[davent]

^Looks like an ideal use for strip/vero board.

[armdnrdy]

^Looks like an ideal use for strip/vero board.

You are correct sir.

I forgot to add that in.

[GibsonGM]

Welcome to the forum, Hav!

As Tony noted, there are a lot of bezels out there for LEDs, and I've used several types. Lately, I've been drilling a hole that's a little smaller than the LED and glueing the LED under the hole using super glue or hot glue. You can also make the hole large enough to allow a little bit of the top of the LED to stick up, but I usually don't do this in case I step on it.

Anyway, just another way to skin the cat. Have fun with it!

Welcome!   Yeah,  I like to glue them in, too. I use "Goop" or some other gooey adhesive, drill a hole slightly smaller, press fit the LED and goop it up (being careful not to short the leads with the glue).   Wait a day, then come back and we're all set.  Sometimes I use clear silcone caulk for this, works great.    Bezels are ok but not always available...

[arma61]

^Looks like an ideal use for strip/vero board.

Or make a good use of all those 3x3cm snippets I left everytime I cut a copper clad board      Thanks!

[amptramp]

I like using bezels.  They have that finished look that is extremely difficult to get by any other means and it also means that your drilled hole does not have to be of an exact size or finish.  Whether you glue or use bezels, you still have the problem that you can get the board out but the LED stays in place, so you either need long leads or a polarized connector.  Many products like TV remote controls that use LED's mount them to the circuit board so they can come out with the board.

Of course, you can always use the big jeweled bezels that were common on tube amplifiers for a retro / industrial look.

[Canucker]

I've moved away from bezels as well. (they are big, clunky, and serve no purpose...most don't even hold the LED solidly in place)

I started making little "LED boards".





The hole for the LED in the board is just large enough to allow the top portion of the LED through, but stops at the bottom "ring" of the LED.

The LED is inserted in the board hole on the trace side and soldered to the closest pads.

The thickness of the PC board coupled with the thickness of a standard enclosure puts the LED protruding through the enclosure at an ideal depth. (This is for 3mm LEDs. A 5mm LED would need additional board shims to achieve the correct depth)

The non copper side of the board is glued with adhesive (your choice....epoxy, gorilla glue, etc.) to the enclosure making a good, solid connection.

Off board wires are soldered to the trace side of the LED board. The wires can then be routed to switches, LFOs, power. etc.

You can make up a bunch of these boards in a few hours and keep them on hand for future projects.

If this were facebook I'd click "LIKE" on this.

[armdnrdy]

Thanks!

I came across the idea while reverse engineering a Snarling Dog Mold Spore wah.

Joe Gagan loaned me one of his Mold Spore wahs to put together a project.

He asked if while it was in my possession I could fix one of the LEDs.

The LEDs are the two "dog eyes" located on the foot pedal that use a small LED board similar to what I came up with.

Wires are routed from the LED board to the main circuit board.


A few things that I like about using a board for mounting is: No glue on the LED, the depth spacing is perfect, and the flat surface of the board makes for a strong bond to the enclosure.

You can even make the board a bit larger a mount the current limiting resistor on the trace side.

[bluebunny]

I started making little "LED boards". . .

What a brilliantly simple idea!   

[Hav]

I've moved away from bezels as well. (they are big, clunky, and serve no purpose...most don't even hold the LED solidly in place)

I started making little "LED boards".





The hole for the LED in the board is just large enough to allow the top portion of the LED through, but stops at the bottom "ring" of the LED.

The LED is inserted in the board hole on the trace side and soldered to the closest pads.

The thickness of the PC board coupled with the thickness of a standard enclosure puts the LED protruding through the enclosure at an ideal depth. (This is for 3mm LEDs. A 5mm LED would need additional board shims to achieve the correct depth)

The non copper side of the board is glued with adhesive (your choice....epoxy, gorilla glue, etc.) to the enclosure making a good, solid connection.

Off board wires are soldered to the trace side of the LED board. The wires can then be routed to switches, LFOs, power. etc.

You can make up a bunch of these boards in a few hours and keep them on hand for future projects.

This is a great idea! on my next build!

[Hav]

done! awesome!

[amptramp]

This is a red LED installed in a chromed bezel on the black unit on the right:



The LED is protected from being stomped on and the conical chromed bezel adds to the light output, permitting adequate light at low currents.

[wayfaerer]

Hello all. I know reviving old threads is taboo, but would someone kindly share a picture of armdnrdy's idea posted above (the "LED board")? Not sure, but it seems like he/she posted a pic but it's not showing up for some reason, and I can't quite figure out what is meant there.

[antonis]

After all these years, LEDs are "incorporated" into 3PDT switch PCBs..

https://lovemyswitches.com/3pdt-wiring-board-pcb/

Many pre-drilled enclosures utilizing switch PCBs are also pre-drilled for LED too..
(meaning you just have to solder LED legs straight on PCB and that's all..)

[Phoenix]

When using 9mm right angle board mounted pots like this, and using 3mm LEDs, I find LED spacers indispensable. These are the ones I use. They set the height perfectly, and prevent the leads from bending when fitting the board to the enclosure or if knocked. 3mm LEDs don't protrude so far through typical diecast enclosures that they're at significant risk of being stomped on anyway. Gives a very clean look and is dead simple.