Thunderdrive only make noise.

[GiovannyS10]

Hi guys!

Well, today i made a new project, a Thunderdrive deluxe. I made equal to at the original project, i revised some times but dont see de error.
After see my circuit for very times, i saw my output jack was not grounded, i put a wire him for the ground. After, the clean sound work right but the drive dont, the drive no make any noise. But when output not grounded both the clean sound as dirty not work right. In both i only hear noise. And the noise increases when i touch the strings of my guitar. Its make me think about the ground, but when i gound the output the only clean sound work right.
Here is the layout i use: http://www.modkitsdiy.com/sites/modkitsdiy.com/files/product_files/dc_power_jack_add_thunderdrive_deluxe_layout_0.pdf

I cant find the 250k pot, i used 200k. And i cant find the 2M, i used two 1M resistors in serie, and the 104j film(poly) capacitors i cant find too, i used ceramic capacitors.

I chaged my image host, because some people cant see my previously images.

In this first image you can see the complete circuit. Note that the output jack arent grounded. When i ground the clean work but the drive dont. When not grounded none work.

On this seccond you can see the circuit.

A pot, i can see the capacitor.

My improve 3PDT. You see the connections.

The jacks connection.


Thanks 4 all, guys! True!
And im sorry for one more basic error. 

[duck_arse]

I cant find the 250k pot, i used 200k. And i cant find the 2M, i used two 1M resistors in serie, and the 104j film(poly) capacitors i cant find too, i used ceramic capacitors.

I chaged my image host, because some people cant see my previously images.

thank you for the change. more people can see, more people can help. the 200k pot won't be a problem. the poly caps don't need to be "j", that is just the tolerance marking. use ANY 100nF caps you can find, at least to get it working.

and, your switch. you DON'T need three poles at the build/test phase, you only need two pole, double throw for true bypass. one of those switches will do, if you want a led indicator, you might add the millenium a bit later. can you link us to the actual circuit for this project, please?

[GiovannyS10]

thank you for the change. more people can see, more people can help. the 200k pot won't be a problem. the poly caps don't need to be "j", that is just the tolerance marking. use ANY 100nF caps you can find, at least to get it working.

and, your switch. you DON'T need three poles at the build/test phase, you only need two pole, double throw for true bypass. one of those switches will do, if you want a led indicator, you might add the millenium a bit later. can you link us to the actual circuit for this project, please?

The circuit are here, i posted the link:  http://www.modkitsdiy.com/sites/modkitsdiy.com/files/product_files/dc_power_jack_add_thunderdrive_deluxe_layout_0.pdf

And the schematic: http://www.modkitsdiy.com/sites/modkitsdiy.com/files/product_files/thunderdrive_deluxe_schematic.pdf

Thanks for the help! I try to use 3 poles because are 3 poles at original project. Im a begginer, dont know make some things... And i am never used the millenium bypass, because i dont found the millenium on my city, i dont found the components to make it too, and no have money enough even to buy a 3PDT. I never saw a 3PDT out of internet for sale. Make stompboxes is not common at my city. I have difficult up to found normal components how some diodes and capacitors. And for buy of internet, the price of freight ends up being more expensive than product's price.

[duck_arse]

we have a few members from brazil, you might look them up and ask them about component sourcing.



in this picture, I see a wire linking left tag to middle tag. this will short the 4k7. also, I don't see the capacitor between the 4k7 and the diodes. attend to those, then see what happens. do you have a meter to take voltage measures?

[GiovannyS10]

we have a few members from brazil, you might look them up and ask them about component sourcing.

in this picture, I see a wire linking left tag to middle tag. this will short the 4k7. also, I don't see the capacitor between the 4k7 and the diodes. attend to those, then see what happens. do you have a meter to take voltage measures?

Ok, i will ask to him when i meet someone.

You have reason. I got a wrong soldier at 4k7, but on the other circuit are correct and the drive dont work. And the capacitor is not after the diodes, but after the switch key.

I will try to soldier correctly the 4k7 and tell you the result.
Thank u my friend.

[...]

Duck, i correct the wrong weld of 4k7, and i put a wire for the ground on the diodes' tag. But same this, dont work yet. The clean sound are okay, but the distorcion are mute (no have any sound). I take some pics for you see.

[IMAGE 1]
Here u see the the distorcion pot.

[IMAGE 2]
You can see the out pot

[IMAGE 3]
U see the circuit.

The diodes tag (right) is tag 1. Count one by one in the left direction.
I take the voltage measures:

TAG 1: 0V
TAG 2: 8,6 V
TAG 3: 0 V
TAG 4: 8,1 V
TAG 5: 8,5 V

I measured the voltages on the places showed by project. All is right. I dont know whats happening.

[duck_arse]

gio, you need to have the 100nF cap between the collector//4k7//2M connection and the diodes, otherwise one diode conducts all your collector volts to ground = no output. unless the connection to the turbo switch comes after the cap on the out pot?


(maybe you could start a new thread in the lounge section, call something like "where to buy parts in brazil", then they'll know it's you. and the next brazillian will know as well.)

[GiovannyS10]

gio, you need to have the 100nF cap between the collector//4k7//2M connection and the diodes, otherwise one diode conducts all your collector volts to ground = no output. unless the connection to the turbo switch comes after the cap on the out pot?

But i have this capacitor! Is the capacitor on the image 2 (last post). He have a connection with the collector and 4k7 and 2M, after have a colection with the pot and after with the switch (and diodes because of switch). Unless the pot are wrong linked. :/ I will check it, ok?
You have a new idea?

(Change de subject) You see the guitar i made on the lounge forum?

[duck_arse]

(de subject) yes, I did see it, it looks the biscuits. I do woodwork on a much smaller scale, about the size of pedal boxes. what sort of wood did you use, something from the brazillian rainforest?

something else. the tags that have bottom lugs are for mounting, usually in contact with the grounded case. you can only have ground connections on those tags, or they will need to be isolated from the case. I think I see you have V+ connections on one, yes? my eyes play tricks, too many red wires.

[Cozybuilder]

Gio-
I suggest that you draw the circuit directly from what you have wired up- ignore the schematic while doing so. Once it is drawn double check it against your build, be sure its accurate. Then compare to the schematic, I think you'll find a discrepancy.

[GiovannyS10]

I dont understand it, sorry!

yes, I did see it, it looks the biscuits

But i made this guitar on real scale, for normal use. About the wood, for body i used Marupá ( i think is brazilian), and for neck and scale i used Marfim (I think the name is Ivory in english). I dont know the name of this wood in english, you can try to translate.

Continue...

Yes, i have a positive connection with the tag lugs, i will to connect a wire for the ground on the tags of ground. On this day, i just had red and yellow wires. On this project (test) the color dont say anything.

My pedal dont work yet.

Gio-
I suggest that you draw the circuit directly from what you have wired up- ignore the schematic while doing so. Once it is drawn double check it against your build, be sure its accurate. Then compare to the schematic, I think you'll find a discrepancy.

Okay Cozy, i will try to make it.
Thanks for your assistance.

[ggedamed]

There are some options if you want to make your builder life easier:
- try to not let parts hanging by their wires; instead of that little tagboard you could use veroboard
- use some rules for wire colors; right now you have black almost everywhere which makes difficult to grok the build (like Morroco Mole when he organized the Secret Agency files and put all of them under "C" from Criminals  )
- an application like DIYLC could help you a lot to vizualize what you're doing.
Like this:


And this is the DIYLC project file.

I tried to use your tagboard as much as possible. Also I reversed the transistor position and changed the diodes switching a bit to be able to solder them on the switch. R1 is the 2M resistor (it has the color code) and R2 is the 4k7 resistor.

BTW, Giovanny is not an Italian name?

[GiovannyS10]

There are some options if you want to make your builder life easier:
- try to not let parts hanging by their wires; instead of that little tagboard you could use veroboard
- use some rules for wire colors; right now you have black almost everywhere which makes difficult to grok the build (like Morroco Mole when he organized the Secret Agency files and put all of them under "C" from Criminals  )
- an application like DIYLC could help you a lot to vizualize what you're doing.
Like this:


And this is the DIYLC project file.

I tried to use your tagboard as much as possible. Also I reversed the transistor position and changed the diodes switching a bit to be able to solder them on the switch. R1 is the 2M resistor (it has the color code) and R2 is the 4k7 resistor.

BTW, Giovanny is not an Italian name?

Wooww!!!! Hahaha 
First, thank you very much to the help.
Lets go to answer and questions
1. I never see a veroboard on my life! Hahaha. Dont have on my city. But i will try not soldier the components by wire.
2. I use rules for wire colors, on this time e not used because i only have black wire, and im anxious to see the final result.
3. I dont know the DIYLC, i use the PCB Wizard, but i will try! 

I will try to remake my project like the your project Why you reverse the transistor position?

And Giovanny is a italian name yes  But im brazilian. 

Thanks!
Cheers!

[ggedamed]

[...]

1. I never see a veroboard on my life! Hahaha. Dont have on my city. But i will try not soldier the components by wire.
2. I use rules for wire colors, on this time e not used because i only have black wire, and im anxious to see the final result.
3. I dont know the DIYLC, i use the PCB Wizard, but i will try! 

[...]

Why you reverse the transistor position?

1. Look at this, then . How do you source your parts? I actually wanted to say "try to not let parts hanging by their terminals".
2. Impatience never helps this hobby or other activities, for that matter.
3. DIYLC is a quite easy to use, you just drag-n-drop parts to the board. I think it'll help you connect the schematic with the board.

I reversed the transistor position because I wanted to make the most of your tagboard, so there will be as little hanging parts as possible. Certainly, it's not the only way, just what I've come with. I've just noticed that resistor that protects the LED is also named R2. Oh, well, that's what you get for copy/paste...

[duck_arse]

I dont understand it, sorry!

yes, I did see it, it looks the biscuits

I like cake. I like biscuits. some people say "it's the nuts", some say "that takes the cake", others say "it's the business". some even say "it's the duck's guts", but not me. I've decided I'm going to say 'it's the biscuits' instead, just because I can. it means "geeze, that's a cracker of an axe you got there, cobber!" or words to that effect.

and thank you for that diagram, ggedamed. Giovanny - check the datasheet for your transistor before/if you rebuild, always make sure the pins.

[GiovannyS10]

[...]

1. I never see a veroboard on my life! Hahaha. Dont have on my city. But i will try not soldier the components by wire.
2. I use rules for wire colors, on this time e not used because i only have black wire, and im anxious to see the final result.
3. I dont know the DIYLC, i use the PCB Wizard, but i will try! 

[...]

Why you reverse the transistor position?

1. Look at this, then . How do you source your parts? I actually wanted to say "try to not let parts hanging by their terminals".
2. Impatience never helps this hobby or other activities, for that matter.
3. DIYLC is a quite easy to use, you just drag-n-drop parts to the board. I think it'll help you connect the schematic with the board.

I reversed the transistor position because I wanted to make the most of your tagboard, so there will be as little hanging parts as possible. Certainly, it's not the only way, just what I've come with. I've just noticed that resistor that protects the LED is also named R2. Oh, well, that's what you get for copy/paste...

I already saw a veroboard  but never see personally. I buy my parts in eletronical stores. On my city the eletronical stores are very small
I will try to be most pacient, and i already install the DIYLC. I dont have time enough yet to make this alterations But tomorrow i will try to make.

I dont understand it, sorry!

yes, I did see it, it looks the biscuits

I like cake. I like biscuits. some people say "it's the nuts", some say "that takes the cake", others say "it's the business". some even say "it's the duck's guts", but not me. I've decided I'm going to say 'it's the biscuits' instead, just because I can. it means "geeze, that's a cracker of an axe you got there, cobber!" or words to that effect.

and thank you for that diagram, ggedamed. Giovanny - check the datasheet for your transistor before/if you rebuild, always make sure the pins.

I continue dont understand man  Sorry, my english is not too good. When u say "like biscuits" you want to say you like this? 

And i will rebuild yes! Tomorrow i will post the result

[PRR]

> Marfim (I think the name is Ivory in english).

Ivory is elephant tusk. Traditional for piano keys. In recent years you can NOT get elephant ivory, legally, in most places.

I think you have Pau Marfim (Balfourodendron riedelianum). Grows around Brazil. "pau marfim wood is very similar to birch or sugar maple". "wood is straight grained and easy to work and finish."
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood-species/paumarfim/

It has been seen in the US, but since it is similar to birch and maple, and we have lots of those (come to my house), it isn't worth importing Pau Marfim.

Marupá is also Brazilian, I find some discussion about musical instruments, a research paper about Marupá seedlings, and this 20-page paper about the tree, how to work with it, and nice stuff you can make (text all in Spanish, but with very nice pictures).

AH! The "international name" is simaruba. In the US the extract of the bark is sold as an "herbal medicine", but I can't find a source for the lumber.

Brazil has a lot of trees, but the US and Canada still have trees. Several tropical woods are well-known here, but only Lauan is widely used (as very-smooth plywood for floor under-lay).

[GiovannyS10]

> Marfim (I think the name is Ivory in english).

Ivory is elephant tusk. Traditional for piano keys. In recent years you can NOT get elephant ivory, legally, in most places.

I think you have Pau Marfim (Balfourodendron riedelianum). Grows around Brazil. "pau marfim wood is very similar to birch or sugar maple". "wood is straight grained and easy to work and finish."
http://www.woodbin.com/ref/wood-species/paumarfim/

It has been seen in the US, but since it is similar to birch and maple, and we have lots of those (come to my house), it isn't worth importing Pau Marfim.

Marupá is also Brazilian, I find some discussion about musical instruments, a research paper about Marupá seedlings, and this 20-page paper about the tree, how to work with it, and nice stuff you can make (text all in Spanish, but with very nice pictures).

AH! The "international name" is simaruba. In the US the extract of the bark is sold as an "herbal medicine", but I can't find a source for the lumber.

Brazil has a lot of trees, but the US and Canada still have trees. Several tropical woods are well-known here, but only Lauan is widely used (as very-smooth plywood for floor under-lay).

Hello guy! You have the reason! The name is Pau Marfim same. I'm sorry, I did not know how to translate this name, so i put him on the Google Translate. Thanks for the lot of informations, i will see it one by one.

And for the other guys, i'm sorry for the my sudden disappearance. I was very sick. But i returned now.