Author Topic: Few questions for Aron...  (Read 5302 times)

Ice9Rg570

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Few questions for Aron...
« on: October 13, 2003, 11:12:56 PM »
Ok I'm getting ready to order my parts..
First off is does radioshack have the solder sucker and/or desolder braid? Which is easier to use? Also what size solder do we need? I think it may be in another thread but couldnt find it.
Second: What color wire do we need and how much? Also a friend of mine said 600v  rated silver plated teflan hookup wire was really good. This stuff: http://www.hndme.com/storeteflonwire.html
how much of it do i need and is it good wire to buy?
Lastly: At Small bearelectronics they have the "Resistor, 1/4 watt 5%, Any Value" Are these the onese we need, and are they good enough for future projects? And for the 5k linear pot they have them in 24mm and 16mm which one is right?

Thanks!

edit: i have three more question... for the electrolytic caps small bear has axial and radial 16v ones.. which do I need? Also for the transistor... small bear has the 2n5088 under Bipolar Silicon... is this the right one? Otherwise I think mouser has the right one. For the caps it said uf in the parts list but all the values on Small bear says mf.. are these right?Sorry for so many questions but i've never done this before.

aron

Few questions for Aron...
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2003, 03:36:54 PM »
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Ok I'm getting ready to order my parts..


Very cool!

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First off is does radioshack have the solder sucker and/or desolder braid? Which is easier to use? Also what size solder do we need? I think it may be in another thread but couldnt find it.


Yes, they have both the braid and sucker. I use the sucker and have so for years. For the longest time I used the bulb sucker. It works well but tends to get clogged so you need a nail or something to stick into it to unclog it.

The syringe type sucker is great, but more expensive ($9???).

As for solder, I can't remember the diameter but it's the thinner version of the solder. I can check tonight. Try not to get the thicker version as it's harder to solder small parts. Ask them what the standard size is and get that or one size smaller.


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Second: What color wire do we need and how much?


You don't have many choices at Radio Shack. You need hookup wire that will fit in the perfboard holes. You can ask the guy at RS, for the appropriate ones. They come in different colors and work OK.

I like the wire from Small Bear Electronics as well. This the pre-tinned hookup wire. You don't need much actually, but they come in pre-determined sizes which will be more than you need for this project.

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Also a friend of mine said 600v rated silver plated teflan hookup wire was really good. This stuff: http://www.hndme.com/storeteflonwire.html
how much of it do i need and is it good wire to buy?


I would say it's overkill for this. I have heard about this, but you don't need it for our project.  5 Feet is more than enough for this project.

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Lastly: At Small bearelectronics they have the "Resistor, 1/4 watt 5%, Any Value" Are these the onese we need, and are they good enough for future projects?

Yes and yes. If you want to go all out, metal film resistors are slightly quieter and have better tolerance, but not needed for this project.

>And for the 5k linear pot they have them in 24mm and 16mm which one is right?

I like the 16mm smaller pots.

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i have three more question... for the electrolytic caps small bear has axial and radial 16v ones.. which do I need?


Radial are the ones you need. You can use axial, but I prefer Radial  because of how it goes on the board.

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Also for the transistor... small bear has the 2n5088 under Bipolar Silicon... is this the right one?


Yes.

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For the caps it said uf in the parts list but all the values on Small bear says mf.. are these right?Sorry for so many questions but i've never done this before.


You have the PERFECT questions!

Yes, uF = mf = micro farad.

Please keep on asking questions. This is great!  :)

Ice9Rg570

  • Guest
Few questions for Aron...
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2003, 05:32:41 PM »
Thank you very much for your help, Aron!

Joe Bonner

I'd like to add one thing....
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2003, 11:28:01 AM »
This may be covered in the FAQ, but as a beginner, the markings on caps are very confusing to me (and probably even the non-beginner!).

I bought some .1 and .01 uF (film) caps from Small Bear and the markings said 0.1K and 0.01K.

At first I thought that I ordered the incorrect values, but after a bit of research, I found out that the K is the tolerance (+/- 10%).

At least, I think that's right. Someone correct me if I'm wrong!

Thanks.

Joe

aron

Few questions for Aron...
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2003, 03:16:42 PM »
I agree. I like ordering from Mouser because they clearly label the parts and values.

I have seen funky caps with weird markings.

I always thought the K was for thousands, but who knows?

fuqd

Few questions for Aron...
« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2003, 01:32:01 AM »
K represents the caps tolerance.. 10% in this case.  

Cap values are marked in a number of different ways:

The capacitance value is often marked using a 3 digit code. This works in the same way as resistor coding but using numbers instead of colours. The first 2 numbers give the value and the last number is the multiplier. These give the value in Picofarads (pF), e.g. code 103 = 1 0 000pF (=0.01uF). Alternatively the value may be marked directly, for example 2n2 is 2.2 Nanofarads (nF).

I just picked up some caps from radioshack and they had it written out in full, ex. 47uF.

But even with all this knowledge l I managed to forget to get one (or got a wrong one).

I am curious, any idea what percentage of diy pedalers have an electronics background (I am working on my EE right now).  I have never built a pedal but was going to do this project tonight before I got a wrong cap.  Maybe I can combine and get the value I want.

-Jake