Hi there!
Great to see people still being interested in this little thing.
@rankot
Nice PCB layout indeed! Thanks!
I checked it by retracing the schematic from your PCB and arrived at (almost) the original schematic plus the switching and indicator LED incl. series resistors and a 10µF cap. I'm not sure what the 10µ cap does for the indicator. Save the LED from power supply surges upon power-up? Anyway, it can't hurt. Other than that, only the series diode and resistor in the power supply filter were changed from 1n5817 to BAT85 and 47R to 15R respectively. Neither of these changes should affect the sound or operation of the device, use what you have. The only slight "mistake" I found was that the contact pads on the diodes and polarized caps are a bit confusing. Diodes have a square pad on the minus side and round on the plus side in the layout. For electrolytic caps it is the other way round. I'm not sure if that is some sort of weird convention I am unaware of, may well be. Just be careful and double check the orientations of polar devices when building this. Also: be aware that this is a tight layout. You may need to get particularly small varieties for the large value film caps. Greenies or orange drops or similar will probably not fit, the boxed KEMET caps (the beige ones) should fit, I think. Someone will have to try, I suppose...
EDIT: The original schematic had a trimmer to set the output volume, Rankos PCB has set that fix to max with a 100k resistor, which is probably what 95% of the people want 95% of the time anyway. And one more thing: If you put a switch instead of the time cap C10 that lets you choose between different size caps (1µ, 2µ2, 4µ7, 10µ, 22µ all sound nicely different) you get a much more variable pedal but it will be extremely awkward to put that in a 1590A. The next best thing is to socket this cap and try which value you like best.
Cheers and a happy 2019 to all,
Andy