Vero Traces

[airguitar]

Hi i use a screwdriver to cut the traces and then pass a blade along the lines to make sure not to leave any copper.Is that a good way ?
i post some pics too

[EBK]

I use the corner of a wood chisel. Similar to your approach, but the sharp blade is good at cleaning the copper at the edge of the cut.  Just be careful with those little bits of copper sticking up.  You don't want them to accidentally bridge between rows if they happen to move around.

Some people use a drill bit to cut traces as an alternative.

[airguitar]

i tried just now with the blade seems a better job no piled copper

[stringsthings]

I use a drill bit that I just twist my fingers.
After making all the trace cuts, I check for shorts with a DMM.

[Elijah-Baley]

I use a drill bit that I just twist my fingers.
After making all the trace cuts, I check for shorts with a DMM.

Exactly what I do.
A drill bit of 4mm is good for me.

[Kipper4]

I use a drill bit that I just twist my fingers.
After making all the trace cuts, I check for shorts with a DMM.

Pragmatic and systematic.
I've used the drill bit in hand method with sucess, vero on a flat surface and a light touch else you might break some of the traces or snap the board if the vero is handheld.

[antonis]

A drill bit of 3 - 3.5 mm for cuts and a 0.6mm saw tooth blade for clearance between neighbour traces should be more than fine for the job..

Despite final visual inspection & continuity test results, I always clear finished board traces with the saw tooth blade and wipe them with a toothbrush..

(I could also mention final cleaning using compressed air but I don't wish to accept sarcastic emoticons..) 

[Kipper4]

 

[Les Turnbull]

Am I the only one with a proper Vero cutting tool .

[deadastronaut]

yes..

[EBK]

I had one of those cutting tools once, but it snapped in half from the force I had to apply to get that thing to actually cut.  Never again.

[duck_arse]

I lost my proper tool years ago, and it didn't have spiral flutes, just the spot face cutting erm, thing, on the pointy end.

airguitar - yr screwdriver does an admirable job. those boards need a clean with a scotch-brite type cleaner pad, then solder.

[antonis]

Am I the only one with a proper Vero cutting tool .

Substitute "far-fetched expensive" for "proper", plz... 

[Ice-9]

Am I the only one with a proper Vero cutting tool .

Nope. 

[Andrekp]

I use a primer hole deburring tool, because I have it on hand. Works great and is likely pretty much the same thing as the "official" very cutting tool.


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[highwater]

+1 for a handheld drill bit. Doesn't take much effort, and makes a pretty clean cut (at-least with a sharp bit, and any other kind is only good for holding timing-belt tensioners loose).

But then again, if I had the sort of phillips-head screwdriver that actually un-screws instead of stripping the screw, I'd definitely consider using that... but they're almost as rare as plexiglass-to-aluminum welding rods .

[bluebunny]

Am I the only one with a proper Vero cutting tool .

Nope. 

Me too.  (Neither?)

I have one of these, but you have to take care not to turn too much or else it goes clean through the board!  (It's very sharp.)  I've also got one that's more like a counter-sink: not nearly so sharp (and therefore more effort), but it does beautifully smooth track cuts.  Came from Farnell, I think...