Rangemaster layout and vero/stripboard questions

[mordechai]

I inherited a perfect OC44 that I want to put into a Rangemaster build, for which I have some nice mojo parts.  I'd like to build it on vero/stripboard, so I have two questions:

1.  I want to source the "good" vero/stripboard with wide pitch between the holes, similar to the kind used in the very nice D*A*M builds, but am having a hard time finding it.  Anybody have suggestions on where I could find some?

2. Anybody have a nice vero /stripboard layout that could accommodate vintage axial caps?

Thanks in advance for the help!

[MaxPower]

In case no one replies: It's a pretty simple circuit is it not? Why not create your own layout. Though it'd be easier on perfboard imo. Diy layout creator is an easy to use program with zero learning curve. Does Vero and perfboard.

[Big Monk]

I inherited a perfect OC44 that I want to put into a Rangemaster build, for which I have some nice mojo parts.  I'd like to build it on vero/stripboard, so I have two questions:

1.  I want to source the "good" vero/stripboard with wide pitch between the holes, similar to the kind used in the very nice D*A*M builds, but am having a hard time finding it.  Anybody have suggestions on where I could find some?

2. Anybody have a nice vero /stripboard layout that could accommodate vintage axial caps?

Thanks in advance for the help!

You could always go full old school and use a terminal strip. Maybe fly leads of the strip to a small board with a transistor socket to keep that OC44 safe while you solder everything up then plug it in.

My favorite RM I ever built was done off of R.G.'s Treble Blaster article and on a terminal strip. Makes me think I should try doing a terminal strip Fuzz Face or Tonebender as well.

[mordechai]

Hi Max...I've actually tried doing vero layouts and I **stink** at them.  My layouts are always awkward, much larger than they ought to be, and lack functional elegance.  I'd much rather use something that is both verified and streamlined for a better and less crowded build. 

[duck_arse]

Hi Max...I've actually tried doing vero layouts and I **stink** at them.  My layouts are always awkward, much larger than they ought to be, and lack functional elegance.  I'd much rather use something that is both verified and streamlined for a better and less crowded build.

you could show us a one of your offending layouts, let us rip in and "correct" it for you.

[mordechai]

I'll try to put one together for a Rangemaster and I'll post it later today.  I'd welcome pointers!

[tubegeek]

you could show us a one of your offending layouts, let us rip in and "correct" it for you.

Villagers! Light your torches!

[mordechai]

Alright, friends.  Please offer corrections to whatever mistakes you see here, and please be gentle, I'm a sensitive guy.

[nickbungus]

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/02/dallas-rangemaster-pnp-negative-ground.html?m=1

[Big Monk]

Alright, friends.  Please offer corrections to whatever mistakes you see here, and please be gentle, I'm a sensitive guy.

I didn't have my schematic binder handy but on first glance it looks okay. My only comment would that you may want R3 to be a trimpot rather than the 3.9k emitter resistor. Or follow R.G.'s article and use a trimpot on both to find the resistor value that gives the most favorable bias then make this permanent.

I'll give it a more thorough look in a bit when the kiddos go down.

[Big Monk]

Alright, friends.  Please offer corrections to whatever mistakes you see here, and please be gentle, I'm a sensitive guy.

The only small error I see is the placement of C4. It's not connected per the standard rangemaster schematic. You seem to have it connected to the Base of the OC44 and the power rail when is should go from the wiper of the 10k to the output.

EDIT: I apologize. I didn't see the cut trace isolating the second strip from the power rail. Looks like if you add a trace cut between the base and the output connection of C4 that the layout would be good.

[duck_arse]

so, what are we doing? I thought you was going to show some dreadfull thing, miles wide and huge rows high, all we get is one missing cut?

if'n youse are wanting to build with wide-strip board, you will be looking to use space rather than save it. imo.

[mordechai]

Thank you, everyone, for your input.  Big Monk, thank you for pointing out that trace cut.  I added it to my layout and now I'm excited to build this.  I'm very grateful. 

[Big Monk]

Thank you, everyone, for your input.  Big Monk, thank you for pointing out that trace cut.  I added it to my layout and now I'm excited to build this.  I'm very grateful.

Always glad to offer help (however limited) if it's something I can spot.

[idy]

It looks like you need a cut in row H, between the trimmer and the link, otherwise that leg of the trimmer that is grounded is connected to your signal after the input cap.

[mordechai]

I see it!  Just made the change to the layout, thanks for spotting that!!