Fender 2 Button Vibrato/Reverb Footswitch w/LEDs

[SeaWitch]

Hey everyone! 

I have a Fender Twin Reverb re-issue with a Vibrato/Reverb Footswitch.  I'd like to add LED indicators for the Vibrato/Reverb (using a 9V battery).

Does anyone have a layout or plans to do such a thing?  I'm getting a bit of conflicting info online.  i'd like to use the existing TRS cable, and i'm planning on building a new enclosure...also, i know i need DPDT replacement switches, but I'm unsure how to wire it all up.

Attached are a couple photos of the footswitch.

Thanks for any help!

[vigilante397]

Welcome to the forum

You will probably want something like this:



I like to use 4.7k resistors with my LEDs, but you can adjust that based on how bright you want your LEDs to be. Hope this helps

[patrick398]

scrap that i'm being an idiot

[SeaWitch]

Yes!  Thanks vigilante397!

Exactly what I am looking for. 

One question...do I need to add an on/off switch for the battery to prevent it from consistent drain when not in use? 

Thank you!!

[vigilante397]

Nope, the footswitches are already doing that. Since you aren't driving anything besides the LEDs there won't be any current from the battery if the LEDs are off. The battery should last you a good long time

[SeaWitch]

Thank you for the excellent help!  You rule!

[SeaWitch]

One last question...

On the original footswitch pedal, the ground is soldered directly to the inside of enclosure.  On my new footswitch pedal, do I also need to ground to the enclosure?

From my understanding, the DPDT switches make ground contact with the enclosure when they are installed.  So, grounding directly to the enclosure is unnecessary...is this correct?

[vigilante397]

the DPDT switches make ground contact with the enclosure when they are installed.  So, grounding directly to the enclosure is unnecessary...is this correct?

Yes and no. The metal part of the switches absolutely make contact with the enclosure when installed, but there is no connection between the metal part of the switches and the contacts that should be attached to ground, so it wouldn't actually be grounded. It would be a good idea to connect the ground wire to the chassis like was done in the original. Depending on what your enclosure looks like (i.e. what it's made of) this can be done by soldering directly to the chassis or by bolting a solder terminal, or even just wrapping the ground wire around a bolt connected to the box.

[SeaWitch]

thanks so much vigilante397!

In your diagram, should the LEDs be rotated 180 degrees, so the flat side connects to ground?  Or is it correct that way it is...

Sorry if I'm wrong, I just thought the current limiting resistors went to the + of the LEDs.

thanks!

[vigilante397]

Ha, didn't even notice there was a flat side on the diagram. You're absolutely right. Flat side should connect to ground.

The current limiting resistors can actually go on either side and it will function just the same, but putting a positive voltage into the cathode (negative) of an LED is not an effective way to light it.

[SeaWitch]

OK!  I put this together last week...i made a couple changes to make it work correctly.  I attached the layout that worked for me.  Thanks everyone!

[fiveightandten]

OK!  I put this together last week...i made a couple changes to make it work correctly.  I attached the layout that worked for me.  Thanks everyone!

Bumping this up. Can SeaWitch or anyone verify a DPDT switch that fits in this Fender vintage style foot switch enclosure with enough room for a 9V? I can't seem to find any, as it looks like 12mm width is the upper limit to make it work.

[SeaWitch]

[/quote]Bumping this up. Can SeaWitch or anyone verify a DPDT switch that fits in this Fender vintage style foot switch enclosure with enough room for a 9V? I can't seem to find any, as it looks like 12mm width is the upper limit to make it work.
[/quote]

I actually rehoused the guts into a Hammond 1590B, and used a 9V DC jack instead of a battery.  It works great.

[fiveightandten]

I actually rehoused the guts into a Hammond 1590B, and used a 9V DC jack instead of a battery.  It works great.

Thanks, good to know. I was wondering how a battery would possibly squeeze into the Fender switch housing. It looks like another enclosure is the only way. Thanks!

[idy]

It would also be possible to fit one or more lithium button batteries...3v more than enough to drive the LED. Or two AAA or AA. No need for 9v. Experiment to find biggest CLR that will still give a glow.