Author Topic: Tonewoodamp  (Read 7739 times)

DrAlx

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #40 on: March 22, 2019, 06:10:29 PM »
2p coins before 1992 were bronze. They changed them to copper-plated steel due to rising copper prices. So a younger Liz would definitely need tape attachment.
BTW I only used 2p because it was the lowest value coin I had in my wallet, and the fact it was steel was just a bit of luck.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2019, 06:12:44 PM by DrAlx »

DrAlx

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #41 on: March 22, 2019, 06:24:39 PM »
Some enterprising individual is selling magnetic 2p coins...

over here in the UK...

... for 12.99 each.

https://www.propdog.co.uk/magnetic-2p

He is somehow out of stock. They must be selling like hot cakes.


PRR

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #42 on: March 23, 2019, 02:42:31 PM »
I have not seen a US $1 coin in near 50 years. I know several series were released, but never crossed my palm.

The bronze UK 2p is worth more than 2p in metal content. They have not all been melted-down but must be rarer.

PropDog seems maybe a part-time hobby store than an inventory genius. Lot of odd gaps in his stock. Or maybe his stuff just.... vanishes.

Hey! That PropDog will sell me a sub-standard (fake) US JFK 50c for just six bucks! "Lighter and thinner" so it will stick to your palm by magical talent (or spit (actually there is a secret technique you can easily Google)).
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DrAlx

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #43 on: April 10, 2019, 03:16:33 AM »
I got the noise at start-up fixed.  The 15pF cap on the crystal was too small a value.  Using a 33pF cap instead fixed it.

Ben N

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Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #44 on: April 10, 2019, 04:27:21 AM »
Her Majesty's head provides enough mass to kill the horrible bass resonance, while not seeming to affect the sound in any other way.

Nice one Liz !!
She's a pretty nice girl.

wilbur

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #45 on: June 16, 2019, 09:17:53 AM »
I noticed an error in the build document above (missing connection on the diagram showing how to bridge strips together).  I have corrected it, and also tweaked the program code to save a few instructions (there were a few places where quantities were written to registers and then read back immediately in the next instruction.  I will pull the old zip file.  Use this one instead ...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvrH61utWEtEinTuwzdgxpn2TVm8

Is there an updated link for this document, this one appears to no longer work?

Cheers.

DrAlx

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #46 on: June 17, 2019, 02:59:09 PM »
I noticed an error in the build document above (missing connection on the diagram showing how to bridge strips together).  I have corrected it, and also tweaked the program code to save a few instructions (there were a few places where quantities were written to registers and then read back immediately in the next instruction.  I will pull the old zip file.  Use this one instead ...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvrH61utWEtEinTuwzdgxpn2TVm8

Is there an updated link for this document, this one appears to no longer work?

Cheers.

Doc has been updated with larger cap value on the crystal to avoid noisy start-up.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvrH61utWEtEiz97o2-i-hpundLe?e=5qDOZy

pinkjimiphoton

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #47 on: June 18, 2019, 02:01:43 AM »
Search "dayton audio exciter"

I have build a speaker cab with this technique! Using aluminium sheet metal as speaker. It sounds verry tinny indeed, but it really depends on the material used, big cardboard boxes work the best, loud and clear tones!

if ya put a piezo on that aluminum sheet and hang it from some springs, you can make your own plate reverb too. my bud doug at the gallery here built one by doing something very similar. worked great!
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wilbur

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #48 on: June 19, 2019, 06:42:50 AM »
I noticed an error in the build document above (missing connection on the diagram showing how to bridge strips together).  I have corrected it, and also tweaked the program code to save a few instructions (there were a few places where quantities were written to registers and then read back immediately in the next instruction.  I will pull the old zip file.  Use this one instead ...
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvrH61utWEtEinTuwzdgxpn2TVm8

Is there an updated link for this document, this one appears to no longer work?

Cheers.

Doc has been updated with larger cap value on the crystal to avoid noisy start-up.

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AvrH61utWEtEiz97o2-i-hpundLe?e=5qDOZy

Thanks DrAlx, much appreciated.

DrAlx

Re: Tonewoodamp
« Reply #49 on: June 25, 2019, 08:10:55 AM »
The AirStick microsuction tape I was using to attach the box to the guitar back has stopped working after a few months, and the stack of 5 magnets I had inside the guitar (each magnet is N50 and 25mm diameter x 2mm thick) wasn't strong enough to compensate for the tape failing.

So I added another 25mm x 50mm steel plate between the two steel plates already on the bottom of the box, and put a second stack of 5 magnets in the guitar.
One stack of 5 magnets is North side up and positioned to attract the top steel plate on the box, and the other stack of 5 magnets is South side up and attracts the bottom steel plate on the box.
I stuck the magnets to a corrugated cardboard strip so I could keep them separated from each other, and to allow for easier placement in the guitar (a bit like the X-brace of the Tonewoodamp but with only 2 magnets).

Those two stacks of magnets are strong enough to hold the box to the guitar with no suction tape at all.
I actually put suction tape on all three steel plates, but have left the protective cover on the tape so the tape is not actually doing anything other than stopping the steel plates from scratching the back of my guitar.

So I correct my previous findings and say that having two stacks of strong magnets in the guitar and steel plates on the bottom of the box is more important than the microsuction tape.
I still recommend microsuction tape to attach the exciter to the guitar back.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2019, 12:52:42 PM by DrAlx »