Looking for LDR's for mutron phase ii/biphase clone

[seten]

Hey, I'm building a Mutron Biphase clone and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for what LDR's to use and where to buy them. I'm ordering the rest of the components on mouser but I have not been able to find any on there.

Here's the schematic:

https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/DuoPhase.pdf



EDIT: Would these work?
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/photo-conductive-cell-resistor-ldr-650nm-radial-ke-10720.html

[seten]

I'm also wondering now, since theres two sets of the LDR/LED system, would the light from the LED on one side leak to the other and cause problems? If so, how could I prevent this? Just a bunch of electrical tape all over one side or would that mess with the light diffusion within that system since I'm covering up the LED with tape?

[Kipper4]

It's difficult to say what ldrs you require because the PDF supplied with pcb is not clear at all about the the ldr specs.

I'd guess at or try either 500k dark (same sort of thing that you linked to IIRC) or a 1M dark
but that's just guessing.
Better still I'd email the vendor and ask them. After all they were good enough to sell you the board. They should supply the details too.

You had me going for a while.
This is nothing like the bi phaser schematic I've seen which uses fets as a wobbler.

http://experimentalistsanonymous.com/diy/Schematics/Phasers/Mu-Tron%20Bi-Phase%20Phase%20Stage.gif

I hope you sort it out with the supplier.
Looks like your gonna be busy.

For the light guard you could use tape, but its messy after a time and drys out.
Some previous popular units have used a metal enclosure over the led/ldr array.
You know the one that Jimi liked so. Can't remember the name.
Time for bed.

Good lucky mate

[Kipper4]

Forgot to say my solution of late has been to use large heat shrink and mould it around the array.
It worked very well for me when I used an 8pin dip socket put the led up the middle in the hole.
Ldrs in the socket legs. Some sweating over a bit of heat shrink. Bobs you uncle.

[Kipper4]

And welcome.

[digi2t]

Hey, I'm building a Mutron Biphase clone and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for what LDR's to use and where to buy them. I'm ordering the rest of the components on mouser but I have not been able to find any on there.

Here's the schematic:

https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/DuoPhase.pdf



EDIT: Would these work?
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/photo-conductive-cell-resistor-ldr-650nm-radial-ke-10720.html

Those will work fine. That's what we've spec'd for the soon to be released Lola Phase (BiPhase clone).



Phil and I have had extensive conversations with Mike Both of Prophesysound about the BiPhase, and he gave us a great deal of info concerning LED/LDR selection, as well as the transistor drivers for that section. Insofar as the LED's, LDR's, and transistors are concerned, this is what we found works well;

- LED's - KINGBRIGHT L-1553GDT or similar works well. Should be green diffused, 1.8 to 8 mcd @ 10mA, >110 degree view angle.
- LDR's - KTH GL5516, TOKEN PGM5526, or WAITRONY 10720 SHOULD WORK WELL ALSO. GENERAL PERFORMANCE CRITERIA SHOULD BE;- LIGHT ON - (10 LUX) - 5 TO 20 KOHM- LIGHT OFF - > 0.5 MOHM- SLOPE - 0.6 TO 0.7- TIME ON/OFF, 30 TO 40 MS- SPECTRAL PEAK - 540 TO 650 NM.
- Transistors - MPSA42, 2N5551, or 2N4401 (MPSA42 or 2N5551 give best performance).

Matching is the key to getting the best performance out of the circuit. Matching the LDR's, LED's and transistors are key to getting the best performance out of this beast. We've outlined how to go about matching in our Lola build doc.

The build and tuning guide for the Lola is pretty comprehensive. We haven't posted it yet at the store because we're still waiting for the final version of the board sets to arrive, but here's a link to the DEFX Lola Phase build guide to help you out;

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IyJYC1_NLwn_vjhMpgtchYFb3axXAjyh

Keep in mind that the Lola follows the original BiPhase circuit. The PedalPCB version looks to be somewhat condensed, so you'll have to translate the DEFX information to the PedalPCB version. There will be two versions available, one that uses the original architecture for the original optical expression pedal, and a modified version that will work with a regular B1M pot.

Also, you'll also have to figure out a way to isolate the two LED/LDR sections from each other. Otherwise, light bleed from one will throw the other off, and really kill the whole "Bi - Phase" effect.

[Eb7+9]

Matching is the key to getting the best performance out of the circuit. Matching the LDR's, LED's and transistors are key to getting the best performance out of this beast.

...

Also, you'll also have to figure out a way to isolate the two LED/LDR sections from each other. Otherwise, light bleed from one will throw the other off, and really kill the whole "Bi - Phase" effect.

solid ...

[Kevin Mitchell]

That's what we've spec'd for the soon to be released Lola Phase (BiPhase clone).

WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT!!!!!!   (づ｡ ◕‿‿◕｡) づ 

[BetterOffShred]

Glad I didn't throw out my square green LEDs.. 

Exciting

[seten]

Thanks everyone. Seems I may have bit off a little more than I could chew here with my very limited experience, but I am not one to give up on something before I try something extensively. I'm sure I'll have plenty more questions before I finish or give up, hopefully yall can carry me through this build

[seten]

Hey, I'm building a Mutron Biphase clone and was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for what LDR's to use and where to buy them. I'm ordering the rest of the components on mouser but I have not been able to find any on there.

Here's the schematic:

https://www.pedalpcb.com/docs/DuoPhase.pdf



EDIT: Would these work?
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/photo-conductive-cell-resistor-ldr-650nm-radial-ke-10720.html

Those will work fine. That's what we've spec'd for the soon to be released Lola Phase (BiPhase clone).



Phil and I have had extensive conversations with Mike Both of Prophesysound about the BiPhase, and he gave us a great deal of info concerning LED/LDR selection, as well as the transistor drivers for that section. Insofar as the LED's, LDR's, and transistors are concerned, this is what we found works well;

- LED's - KINGBRIGHT L-1553GDT or similar works well. Should be green diffused, 1.8 to 8 mcd @ 10mA, >110 degree view angle.
- LDR's - KTH GL5516, TOKEN PGM5526, or WAITRONY 10720 SHOULD WORK WELL ALSO. GENERAL PERFORMANCE CRITERIA SHOULD BE;- LIGHT ON - (10 LUX) - 5 TO 20 KOHM- LIGHT OFF - > 0.5 MOHM- SLOPE - 0.6 TO 0.7- TIME ON/OFF, 30 TO 40 MS- SPECTRAL PEAK - 540 TO 650 NM.
- Transistors - MPSA42, 2N5551, or 2N4401 (MPSA42 or 2N5551 give best performance).

Matching is the key to getting the best performance out of the circuit. Matching the LDR's, LED's and transistors are key to getting the best performance out of this beast. We've outlined how to go about matching in our Lola build doc.

The build and tuning guide for the Lola is pretty comprehensive. We haven't posted it yet at the store because we're still waiting for the final version of the board sets to arrive, but here's a link to the DEFX Lola Phase build guide to help you out;

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IyJYC1_NLwn_vjhMpgtchYFb3axXAjyh

Keep in mind that the Lola follows the original BiPhase circuit. The PedalPCB version looks to be somewhat condensed, so you'll have to translate the DEFX information to the PedalPCB version. There will be two versions available, one that uses the original architecture for the original optical expression pedal, and a modified version that will work with a regular B1M pot.

Also, you'll also have to figure out a way to isolate the two LED/LDR sections from each other. Otherwise, light bleed from one will throw the other off, and really kill the whole "Bi - Phase" effect.

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/leds/round-leds/5mm-leds/green/led-rectangular-green-2x5mm.html

Would these work? I'm confused because I know you said 1.8-8 MCD but all of the ones I was looking at were in the hundreds. Also, you said 10 mA but the KINGBRIGHT L-1553GDT are 20mA.

EDIT: I guess that was a stupid question. If the ones I was looking at were in the hundreds then theyre probably not the right ones Sooo how about these? https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kingbright/WP103GD?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuCm2JlHBGefs6LFvSDrFCvWcMM3grrIas%3d

20mA instead of 10 but other than that I think they fit the specs.

OR would these be better?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kingbright/WP503GDT?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuCm2JlHBGefkaYU%252b0Eubvewe2ApXQ%2fMFc%3d

[digi2t]

The 103 is a 5mm x 2mm rectangular. The 503 is a 5mm x 5mm square (or cube, depending how you look at  )

The 503 would be my choice. Or the L-1553GDT;

https://www.newark.com/kingbright/l-1553gdt/led-green-5mm-x-5mm-5mcd-565nm/dp/20M7462

Seems I may have bit off a little more than I could chew here with my very limited experience, but I am not one to give up on something before I try something extensively.

Nice to see someone else here with the "Why not me?" syndrome. It's what got me into this diy pedal stuff too. My first build was a Gristleizer. Talk about a steep (read "cliff") learning curve. Welcome!

[seten]

The 103 is a 5mm x 2mm rectangular. The 503 is a 5mm x 5mm square (or cube, depending how you look at  )

The 503 would be my choice. Or the L-1553GDT;

https://www.newark.com/kingbright/l-1553gdt/led-green-5mm-x-5mm-5mcd-565nm/dp/20M7462

Seems I may have bit off a little more than I could chew here with my very limited experience, but I am not one to give up on something before I try something extensively.

Nice to see someone else here with the "Why not me?" syndrome. It's what got me into this diy pedal stuff too. My first build was a Gristleizer. Talk about a steep (read "cliff") learning curve. Welcome!

Thanks so much! Wow, thats ambitious. That would've probably turned me off of it before I even started.