LB-1 CLONE ISSUE - PLEASE HELP

[ROSECOLOGNE]

Hi - first time poster here!

I have a variation on an LB-1 that a close friend wired up for me with a germanium transistor and resistors from an old 60's Baldwin organ along with some Rangemastery tweaks in the treble department.  All point to point to point with old cloth wiring.  Sounds amazing and has for years through my 1965 blackface Bassman and Ampeg Dolphin (1958).  Anyway last night the switch started to fail - it would only stay on and not disengage or when I get it to turn off there was no signal in the chain at all.  I opened it up and it looks like when the switch is pushed in the transistor gets physically pushed out of place causing one side to no longer be flush to the face of the pedal.  I realize when the back of the pedal is screwed on this movement is much more limited due to the physical space restraints but some movement is still present.  I got it working but the transistor is still gets pushed loose when the switch is hit.

Is this normal?? Has my transistor come unglued / loose?  Is the switch busted perhaps?

I appreciate the insight as this seems like a simple fix and I have a few gigs coming up and in really need this pedal in a reliable place. 

Best,

Brian

[patrick398]

Hello Brian, Welcome to one of the finest places on the net.
Do you have an pictures you can post? The transistor being moved when the switch is depressed doesn't sound ideal. Is it socketed?

[ROSECOLOGNE]

Hi Patrick!

Thanks for the speedy reply and happy to be here!  I don't have pics but I can send tomorrow - have to run to a gig tonight right after work!  And have another tomorrow so hoping to get this sorted bahh.



The pedal looks very similar to this - generic grey box, once knob, light and the same exact type switch with washer and plastic ring.  I have made sure this is very tight from the top side.  The blue germanium transistor sits in a thin black U shaped platform that it lifts up from when switch is hit.  I am unsure if this was glued down and the glue has given in or something else has come loose.  Apologies I am unsure if is socketed - how can I tell?

[Myampgoesto12]

You said you got it working, new switch?

If not, if all components are point to point, the only movement that comes to my mind is a weak switch body. Even the best switch bodies are typically made with injection mold techniques with plastic pellet as raw material. They live long lives but do wear out with the internal contacts rocking back and forth over time.

Edit:any movement other than the small amount allowed by being point to point connections**

[ROSECOLOGNE]

I realize now the competent moving inside IS the switch - it has broken off from it's housing and has been kept in place due to the tight space inside the pedal.  As per the below the blue part is lifting out of the metal party when the switch is pushed down. 

Would it be OK to crazy glue it down for the interim?



Any recommendations for bullet proof switch replacements?? I can't get a back up for this one of kind pedal!

appreciate all the advise here!

Best,

Brian

[Myampgoesto12]

You may be able to re-secure the body with some good epoxy, but nothing will be a permanent fix. Perhaps you could epoxy it, and then place something thick enough to hold the switch body firmly against the base plate of the enclosure, but still there will at some point be a failure.

I'd just buy a few new switches. Its safer and less work.

Let us know how it goes!

[ROSECOLOGNE]

Thank you for all the advice!  For the gig tonight I'm gonna see if I can epoxy it down without making a mess and either way I'm gonna put a slim piece of cardboard between the switch and the pedal back for a bit more pressure to ensure minimal movement... and be easy on it.  Might need to use the wah pedal in a static forward position to mimic the treble cut for some solo's to play it safe - not ideal but neither is my switch!

Off to the local guitar shop tomorrow for quick switch replacement in  - hopefully!!

Found this switch from FULLTONE that is suppose to be one of the best. 

https://reverb.com/item/1227388-fulltone-3pdt-footswitch-highest-quality-3pdt-switch-available

[Myampgoesto12]

I may certainly try this switch. The material looks great. Most I've seen have a satin-y texture, and appear weak.

Carling makes a great switch, but not in 3pdt, just 2pdt. And they're kinda costly. I replaced the original 1pdt in my wah with the carling 2pdt for the true bypass mod. No complaints, but its only been a couple of years without gigs..

[ROSECOLOGNE]

Just ordered the switch myself - I'll let ya know how the temporary fix goes and I'll keep ya posted on this switch from Fulltone.  Looks to be the real deal!

[idy]

Those Fulltone are serious switches. I have a neighbor who is a large man who has lost parts of his toes/foot to diabetes complications. Very hard on footswitches. But these ones keep him rocking. They are constructed of bakelite, not epoxy, so a too-slow soldering iron does not melt them like the familiar 3pdts. They cost $16, but if they save your replacing again they are worth it.