Revealing Satan's Anus, the dirtiest fuzz ever made... (fuzz face clone mod)

[deadastronaut]

good, forget the footswitch for now though......its not needed till later.

(most layouts will not include the footswitch) as its standard anyway..

get your 'drawing'  sorted so its readable...

left to right.... input>>>>>>>>>>circuit>>>>>>>>>>>>>output.

then it can be converted to a pcb/strip/vero layout.

[duck_arse]

sounds like you're having piles of fun with the anus. can't wait for the demo.

[jdom1984]

My drawing is a scientifically accurate schematic thank you very much sir! 

I did it a bit wrong so the pots are facing forwards in the schematic (towards you). It is not the back of them like in a proper schematic as I drew it while they were placed like this, facing upwards. So its all mirrored if you are looking at the from behind. Pretty easy to figure out but obviously I need to update the schematic.

:-(

It works though! I want to tweak some of the capacitor values as its a little harsh in the high end..

The tone control also adds more of the oscillations and filth from the weird feedback thing I made between the controller and base of the transistor 1...

The collectors are on the left of the transistors, base in middle and emitter on right.. (will update schematic).

Here is a scan instead of my low resolution photograph:


UPDATE AND QUESTIONS: (shoulda made a new post these posts are too long sorry).

I have made a very rough video recording of the fuzz working in a proper enclosure. I have not added the footswitch or anything fancy, still early days. A few things I noticed I want to change maybe people can guide me a little..

https://youtu.be/fKTPALGr6lo

a) the gain pot was working very well without my filth pot, as soon as the filth pot is added to replace the 100k resistor the gain pot is kinda useless, well its either on or off. Off most of the pots rotation until the very end then suddenly its maximum. Maybe I need another pot before this one to maintain signal integrity? So its never quite 0 ohms resistance? I have this circuit on bread board now so will be easy to find a solution with some tests.

b) the pedal seems to have an extremely hot output  totally overloading my amplifier's input and adding some horrible distortion over the top of an already very distorted signal.  I want to bring this back down to earth as it seems totally over the top and means that the VOL pot needs to be very low at all times otherwise it farts. I guess I can simply add a 1mega ohm pot instead so it had more range?

c) COULD the transistor change have much effect on the sound? it is a 2n2222A not a 2n2222. So more gain? I dunno maybe its not as smooth sounding as the 2n2222, more gutteral. Maybe its just my imagination or something else that is slightly different from my breadboard version of this...



I thought there was something else but cannot remember I am a little hungover today from celebrating finally getting the prototype re created  in my enclosure and realising my schematic is correctly recreating the prototype. So my video is kinda crappy as I drank a tonne of very cheap beers last night... 

[jdom1984]

Now i have a multi meter how can I now use this to make sure that I have successfully recreated my prototype? If I take readings from certain points in the circuit and note those then compare this to the readings from the prototype no.2 in the enclosure. Then I can see if I have truly re created the 1st prototype, is there a specific name and process for this? could you help point me in the right direction? Only reason is that I have a feeling it isn't the same. Maybe just the transistor change? Thanks.

[deadastronaut]

i had a spare moment...i  followed your drawing .....(and put pots around.)

this is what you have...apparently....

[jdom1984]

Bro dude thanks so much man! Doesnt have the pot values I can add that though!
are you sure? I am looking and not entirely sure.. my head is frazzled from working on this all day long. I was gonna make a neater one as soon as things are more settled. I am making them after ever major change.

GOOD NEWS! FINALLY AFTER MONTHS AND MONTHS!  I PUT A TRUE BYPASS AND BATTERY AND LED AND PSU INPUT... so chuffed its all working to!

Here is a much higher quality video and audio EXAMPLE: https://youtu.be/k9LvzGd-jWs

You can see how neat and beautiful it is here!!
(obviously I will be working to make it neater and working around the size and positions of components.)

[jdom1984]

I had a random question.

How come sometimes two of the pots lugs are joined (like the bias pot on my schematic)? Wouldn't this be cancelling out its effect? Or increasing it in some kind of loop?

[EBK]

I had a random question.

How come sometimes two of the pots lugs are joined (like the bias pot on my schematic)? Wouldn't this be cancelling out its effect? Or increasing it in some kind of loop?

Just a "best practice".  If the wiper of your pot loses contact somehow (due to age/dirt/etc.), it ensures the other end won't simply float to infinite resistance.
It doesn't change the behavior of the circuit at all under normal operating conditions.

[jdom1984]

I had a random question.

How come sometimes two of the pots lugs are joined (like the bias pot on my schematic)? Wouldn't this be cancelling out its effect? Or increasing it in some kind of loop?

Just a "best practice".  If the wiper of your pot loses contact somehow (due to age/dirt/etc.), it ensures the other end won't simply float to infinite resistance.
It doesn't change the behavior of the circuit at all under normal operating conditions.

ah ok so there are a few pots I should do that to in my schematic? anything else I should do for safety or reliability? still tweaking things slightly but seems like it should stay like this.

I am pondering how to get control over a high pass filter at the start, instead of blending those two caps together. I would like to be able to blend those but also control how much low end the fat 470uf cap is letting in. I know its a very farty sounding fuzz and not to everyones tastes, I know this is what makes it more unique but I sometimes even find it overwhelming, the low end farts. I would like some control over this.

I was looking into high pass filters and it seems I already have one in the 470uf but I have no control over its cut off point. By adding a resistor to its positive going into ground it seems this controls the shelving frequency? https://images.app.goo.gl/iphAnjd9nn4VQQ3n7

So if this resistor is a POT then I have a controllable, sweepable filter?

I do not want to go over 6 pots and the gain pot is nearly useless so I think I will just replace with a pot that give more tone control. And also as this is so early in the circuit I hope it effects things in other ways. I am getting it will effect the entire timbre, distorting the transistors with different frequencies...

If it was possible to describe what I want to do. I want to change the actual pitch of the entire signal, its all so low and farty. Be great to have control over that. Maybe its not a high pass filter but something else. I think I found it once maybe by controlling a leg of a transistor with yet another pot.

Experiments begin!

[EBK]

ah ok so there are a few pots I should do that to in my schematic? anything else I should do for safety or reliability? still tweaking things slightly but seems like it should stay like this.

Oh, I could tell you all kinds of things that won't make a real difference in your circuit but still make my brain twitch uncomfortably when I don't see them done right.   

But, yes, anywhere you are using only two lugs of a potentiometer, you can connect the unused lug to the wiper.

I'll give you one more nugget, which can safely be ignored in nearly every pedal build:  only ground the enclosure at one point (I usually pick the output jack as my point -- I use fiber shoulder washers to isolate the input jack's sleeve from the enclosure), and, it naturally follows, never rely on the enclosure as a ground current conductor.  This second bit actually caused me some grief during a gig when my expensive tuner pedal's input jack got loose, losing its ground connection (loud popping whenever I stepped on the pedal).

[jdom1984]

ah ok so there are a few pots I should do that to in my schematic? anything else I should do for safety or reliability? still tweaking things slightly but seems like it should stay like this.

Oh, I could tell you all kinds of things that won't make a real difference in your circuit but still make my brain twitch uncomfortably when I don't see them done right.   

But, yes, anywhere you are using only two lugs of a potentiometer, you can connect the unused lug to the wiper.

I'll give you one more nugget, which can safely be ignored in nearly every pedal build:  only ground the enclosure at one point (I usually pick the output jack as my point -- I use fiber shoulder washers to isolate the input jack's sleeve from the enclosure), and, it naturally follows, never rely on the enclosure as a ground current conductor.  This second bit actually caused me some grief during a gig when my expensive tuner pedal's input jack got loose, losing its ground connection (loud popping whenever I stepped on the pedal).

dude you gave me even more of a headache! haha. I only grounded the input jack and the bypass pedal where it told me to... is that what you mean?

I have been working on this pedal all day tweaking the values of capacitors on my bread board. I also tried adding the sweepable pot on the input high pass filter but it didnt work. It is not suprising as its a totally different situation. It was doing something but very little. Have completely cleaned up the sound of the pedal adding more high end and mid range. The tone control works more like it should. For some reason it all works much better on bread board and the output isnt way too hot like my prototype 2 in the enclosure (satans anus). :-(

I will now update my schematic and stuff. I am so happy with how it sounds now I dont wanna stop playing it and that can only be a good sign. Also seems like it has more gain now, I sorted the tone more and maybe more signal is getting through.

anyway frazzled again but I am another bit leap closer to a more balanced and reliable pedal.

Also tried tweaking the input cap loads and for some reason the totally oversized 470uf still seems to sound the best. I dont wanna loose any sub bass.

Will clean it up make schematic put into an enclosure and make another video haha. have to update the anus to this new schematic which means snipping and soldering in there again. maybe work out why its so loud.

[jdom1984]

updated input section slightly different.. I put the pots the right way around this time.

sounding fat

[jdom1984]

two questions:

1) I wish the gain pot functioned properly, it did when I didnt have the filth pot replacing the 100K resistor...
its not really doing anything until right at the end. Any ideas?

2) does it really matter what type of film capacitor I use? I wanted to get some more film ones, the vintage polystyrene ones I have sound so nice on the 33p cap on the input compared to ceramic, just cleaner and smoother and more detail. So I want to build this with good components as there are so little, they might as well be nice. Will a more affordable audio grade capacitor still be a massive leap in sound quality? or do they have to be a big brand like wima and panasonic? Will it matter much which style film it is? Polypropylene vs polyester vs polypropylene? Because the prices vary massively, the 33p polystyrene ones are literally 10x more than polypropylene. Newer technology?

[jdom1984]

@#$% i tried to make it again and it failed again... i dont even know how to debug or problem shoot with a multi meter

[EBK]

@#$% i tried to make it again and it failed again... i dont even know how to debug or problem shoot with a multi meter

Let's start with the basics:
Measure your power supply DC voltage at the board.
Measure the DC voltage at each pin of each transistor.
(If you had any ICs, you'd measure each pin of those too.)
These are the measurements that tend to be the most useful.

[jdom1984]

@#$% i tried to make it again and it failed again... i dont even know how to debug or problem shoot with a multi meter

Let's start with the basics:
Measure your power supply DC voltage at the board.
Measure the DC voltage at each pin of each transistor.
(If you had any ICs, you'd measure each pin of those too.)
These are the measurements that tend to be the most useful.

wow someone replied.. lets not mess this up..

ha.

what? at board? what you mean? the main input. but I know thats 9v right?

oh I messed it up already like all the first dates I went on...

[EBK]

but I know thats 9v right?

And I know it is something less than 9v.  Use your meter and prove me wrong, please.   

[jdom1984]

but I know thats 9v right?

And I know it is something less than 9v.  Use your meter and prove me wrong, please.   

ok after 5 beers i will check

[jdom1984]

but I know thats 9v right?

And I know it is something less than 9v.  Use your meter and prove me wrong, please.   

I am getting 9.18v on my meter. coming from the battery.

1.98 after the 33k resistor. All readings are after 33k resistor to the location noted..

0 on the collector of trans 1

0.60 on the base of transistor 1

1.18 on the emitter of tran 1

1.55 on the collector of trans 2

0 on the base of trans 2

0.60 on the emitter of trans 2

is this any help? I dunno what it all means...

[EBK]

but I know thats 9v right?

And I know it is something less than 9v.  Use your meter and prove me wrong, please.   

I am getting 9.18v on my meter.

Excellent.  Looks like we were both wrong, but your guess was technically closer than mine.